mmaimKmd 


Travels  in  Mexico 


LIFE  AMONG  THE  MEXICANS, 


BY 

FREDERICK   A.    OBER, 

AUTHOR    OF 
'CAMPS    IN    THE    CARIBBEES,"     "YOUNG    FOLKS'    HISTORY   OF    MEXICO,"    ETC. 


I. 

YUCATAN. 

II. 
CENTRAL   AND    SOUTHERN    MEXICO. 

III. 
THE   BORDER   STATES. 


WITH     190     ILLUSTRATIONS, 

MAINLY    FROM    THE    AUTHOR'S     PHOTOGRAPHS    AND    SKETCHES. 


Dios  y  Libertad.— ''God  and  Liberty." 


SAN    FRANCISCO: 

J.     DEWING     AND     COMPANY. 

1884. 


Copyright,  188S, 
By   Frederick  A.  Ober. 


All  rights  reserved. 


stack 


F 


TO 

STEPHEN    SALISBURY,    Jr., 

(Bt  Morcester,  JHassaifiusEtts, 

WHOSE    ACQUAINTANCE,    BEGUN     THROUGH    A    COMMON     INTEREST     IN    AMERICAN 

ARCHAEOLOGY,    HAS    RIPENED    INTO    A    FRIENDSHIP, 

TO   WHICH    THE   AUTHOR 

HEREBY    GRATEFULLY    ACKNOWLEDGES     HIS     INDEBTEDNESS. 


PREFACE. 


"  TT  is  difficult,"  wrote  an  English  author  of  celebrity,  "for  a  person, 
■*-  who  is  desirous  to  lay  before  the  public  an  impartial  view  of  the  pres- 
ent state  of  Mexico,  to  determine  exactly  at  what  point  to  commence 
his  undertaking."  This  difficulty  has  stared  the  author  in  the  face  ever 
since  his  first  trip  to  Mexico  ;  but  it  has  seemed  to  him  that  there  has 
been  an  increasing  popular  demand  for  a  work  which,  while  conducting 
the  reader  by  pleasant  paths  through  the  most  interesting  portions  of  the 
Republic,  should  convey  at  the  same  time  information  of  lasting  value. 

Hence,  during  the  nine  months  devoted  to  travel  and  exploration,  and 
the  two  years  and  more  given  to  a  study  of  the  history  and  customs  of 
the  Mexican  people,  he  has  ever  kept  in  mind  the  great  popular  desire, 
now  so  decidedly  expressed,  for  a  book  on  Mexico  which  should  relate, 
in  plain  and  simple  language,  the  fascinating  story  of  its  history  as  it 
is  interwoven  with  scenes  visited,  and  should  describe  the  wonderful 
development  now  taking  place  through  the  agency  of  the  millions  of 
American  capital  invested  in  railway  construction  and  the  exploitation 
of  mines.  At  the  time  of  the  author's  visit  to  Yucatan  and  Central  and 
Southern  Mexico,  he  devoted  more  attention  to  the  natural  features  and 
historic  surroundings  of  his  journey  than  to  the  material  wealth  of  the 
country  ;  but  the  great  progressive  movement,  initiated  by  the  opening 
of  the  railroads,  could  not  fail  to  awaken  in  him  an  interest  in  the  present 
and  future  of  Mexico,  as  well  as  in  its  past.  Returning  to  the  United 
States,  his  narrative  of  travel  was  nearly  ready  for  the  press  early  in  1883, 
but  perceiving,  as  he  thought,  a  greater  need  of  the  public  for  full  and 
authoritative  statements  regarding  the  resources  of  Mexico,  and  descrip- 
tions of  the  Border  region,  written  from  the  standpoint  of  personal 
observation,  he  laid  aside  his  manuscript  for  a  while  and  essayed  another 
journey  southward.  By  this  time  the  great  railroads,  which  were  hardly 
beyond  their  inception  at  the  period  of  his  first  visit,  had  entered  Mexico 
at  several  points,  and  he  travelled  along  the  entire  Mexican  boundary 
line,  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the  Gulf  of  California,  accomplishing  a 


viii  PREFACE. 

journey  by  rail  of  over  ten  thousand  miles,  some  distance  of  which  was 
through  a  region  not  often  traversed  and  but  httle  known. 

It  would  be  impossible  for  the  author  even  to  enumerate,  in  the  short 
space  he  has  assigned  himself  for  this  brief  prefatory  note,  the  authors 
and  friends,  in  Mexico  as  well  as  at  home,  to  whom  he  is  under  obli- 
gation. It  must  suffice  to  say  that  to  the  liberality  of  his  enterprising 
publishers,  to  the  skill  of  artists  and  engravers,  and  of  the  famous 
house  in  which  the  book  was  printed,  to  the  healthy  criticisms  of  that 
Nestor  of  proof-readers,  Mr.  M.  T.  Bigelow,  and  especially  to  the  friendly 
counsel  and  fine  artistic  taste  of  his  friend,  Mr.  Fred  H.  Allen,  whose 
patience  and  encouragement  have  sustained  him  through  a  long  and 
somewhat  trying  ordeal,  the  author  owes  his  ability  to  present  the  work 
in  a  shape  which  he  trusts  the  public  will  appreciate.  Except  to  call 
attention  to  the  fact  that  he  has  examined  nearly  every  prominent  work 
on  Mexico,  the  author  feels  that  any  mention  of  the  various  books  on  the 
subject  would  be  a  superfluous  labor.  It  is  hoped  that  the  wide  scope 
of  the  present  book,  including  as  it  does  nearly  every  topic  of  interest, 
—  people,  customs,  historical  references,  antiquities,  and  productions,  — 
and  its  carefully  prepared  and  exhaustive  index,  will  make  it  valuable  to 
every  person  interested,  even  though  remotely,  in  the  progress  of  Mex- 
ico. To  this  end  the  numerous  engravings  and  maps  have  been  pre- 
pared ;  and  by  means  of  the  latter  one  may  trace  the  extension  of  our 
vast  system  of  railways  towards  its  ultimate  destination,  the  continent  of 
South  America. 

If,  during  the  many  months  intervening  between  the  conception  and 
the  completion  of  this  volume,  the  author  has  wearied  of  his  task,  or 
has  doubted  the  wisdom  or  expediency  of  it,  he  has  constantly  derived 
consolation  from  the  reflection  that,  in  helping  to  make  Mexico  better 
known  to  the  world  at  large,  he  is  but  lending  his  aid  to  a  progressive 
movement,  that  is  not  to  end  until  the  American  —  the  hitherto  hated 
"Gringo  " — shall  have  pushed  his  engines  to  the  extremest  portion  of 
that  Greater  South ;  and  a  trade  legitimate  and  prosperous  shall  flow  in 
those  longitudinal  channels  which  require  the  traversing  of  no  broad 
ocean  or  tempestuous  sea. 

With  this  hopeful  suggestion,  that  the  reader  view  the  "  Mexican  Move- 
ment "  in  the  same  catholic  light,  the  author  ventures  to  add  another 
volume  to  the  already  large  list  of  works  on  Mexico. 

Beverly,  Massachusetts,  January,  1884. 


CONTENTS. 


BOOK  I. 

YUCATAN. 
I. 

A  GLIMPSE  OF  YUCATAN. 

From  Cuba  to  Yucatan.  —  Progreso.  —  Its  one  hotel.  —  Sisal  the  desolate. — An  anti- 
progressive  railroad.  —  The  Lagoon.  —  Henequen.  —  Indians.  —  Garbs  of  centuries 
agone.  —  The  Uipil.  —  Advent  of  the  steam  monster.  —  Sleepy  Cabmen.  — 
Moresque  architecture.  —  Caged  beauties.  — The  Plaza.  — An  ancient  dwelling. — 
T'ho,  or  Merida.  —  Street  of  the  Eleph;  nt.  —  El  Museo  Yucateco.  —  American 
gold  at  premium.  —  The  "  Sabios  "  of  Yucatan.  —  A  hot  climate.  —  Houses  that  are 
heat  and  vermin  proof.  —  Catherwood  and  Stephens.  —  Summary  of  settlements       .       25 

II. 

YUCATECOS. 

A  dip  into  history.  —  The  first  Indians  of  New  Spain.  —  The  captured  canoe.  — Cacao 
as  currency.  —  The  error  of  Columbus.  — First  view  of  Yucatan.  —  Hernandez  de 
Cordova.  —  Juan  de  Grijalva.  —  An  intrepid  soldier  and  faithful  chronicler.  —  Mon- 
tejo,  conqueror  of  Yucatan.  —  The  conquest.  —  The  indigenous  race.  —  The  Suble- 
vados.  —  Indians  in  arms.  —  The  hidden  city.  —  Mestizos.  —  Servants.  —  Wages.  — 
A  primitive  mill.  —  The  Metate.  —  Tortillas  and  Frijoles.  —  A  rare  Consul.  —  The 
market.  —  The  monastery. — Ancient  religion.  —  The  Carnival.  —  Estudiantes. — 
Caleza  and  Volante. — The  Nunrery.  —  The  Grand  Paseo.  —  A  Yucatan  salute. — 
Sun  worshippers.  —  Waltzing  in  higher  circles. — Sweet  daughters  of  the  South. 
—  Polite  and  polished  people.  —  Lovers'  intrigues 39 

III. 
UXMAL,  THE  RUINED  CITY. 

Ruins  of  Yucatan.  —  A  Volan.  —  Mules  with  ears.  —  Yucatecan  hospitality.  —  The 
Cenote.  —  An  oasis.  —  "  Buenos  dias,  seiiores  !  "  —  Subterranean  rivers.  — Swallows 
and  hornets.  —  The  cattle-yard.  —  Garrapatas.  —  Honey  and  turtle  steak. — Sylvan 


X  CONTENTS. 

bee-hives.  —  Stingless  bees.  —  Oracion.  —  The  Sierra.  —  The  double-headed  tiger.  — 
The  pyramid. —  The  various  Casas,  del  Gobernador,  de  las  Monjas,  de  las  Tortugas, 
de  las  Palomas,  de  la  Vieja.  —  The  Royal  Palace.  —  A  maze  of  sculpture.  — A  hang- 
ing garden.  —  Description  baffled.  —  The  House  of  the  Turtles.  —  The  Temple  of  the 
Vestals.  —  The  Serpent's  Court.  —  Puzzling  wealth  of  hieroglyphics.  —  The  feathered 
serpent.  —  A  reminder  of  Aztec  mythology.  —  Other  ruins  :  Kabah  and  Labnd.  — 
Comparison  of  the  Central  American  ruins.  —  A  recently  discovered  statue.  —  Theories 
regarding  the  people  who  built  these  cities.  —  Prejudiced  historians.  —  A  week  in 
the  ruins.  —  Our  Maya  guide.  —  An  Aguada.  —  The  king  vulture. — The  "Maya 
Arch  "  and  "  Elephant's  Trunk."  —  Misled  antiquarians.  —  Gnomes  and  goblins.  — 
The  Nameless  Mound.  —  The  House  of  Birds.  —  Night  in  the  Palace.  —  The 
Bloody  Hand 58 

IV. 

A  NEW  INDUSTRY  AND  AN  OLD  MONUMENT. 

Hemp,  or  Henequen.  —  The  native  wealth  of  Yucatan.  —  Cultivation  and  preparation  of 
henequen.  — Cordage  and  hammocks.  —  The  cotton  and  its  worm.  —  On  the  road. 

—  Processions  of  Indians.  —  Where  liammocks  are  made.  —  The  coach  Carlotta  rode 
in.  —  Ak6.  —  More  ruins.  —  Cyclopean  columns.  —  Katunes,  or  epochs,  of  aboriginal 
history.  —  Records  of  a  vanquished  people.  —  Who  raised  them? — House  of  the 
Priest.  —  Akabnd,  or  dark  house.  —  The  Cenote  and  its  inhabitants.  —  Lizards  and 
iguanas.  —  The  lizard  that  tortures  you  by  biting  your  shadow.  —  The  oldest  monu- 
ments in  America.  —  Our  host,  the  Conde  Peon 82 

V. 

MAYAPAN,  THE  ANCIENT  EMPIRE. 

Mayapan,  and  Chichen-Itza.  —  Aboriginal  history. — The  Maya  Genesis. — Xibalba. — 
The  Itzaes.  —  The  three  invasions  of  Yucatan.  —  Mayas,  Tutul  Xius,  Caribs.  — 
King  Cocom.  —  The  mound  at  Mayapan.  —  Dr.  Le  Plongeon's  statue. — Maya 
astronomy.  —  Chaldean  and  Egyptian  resemblances.  —  Antiquity  and  civilization  of 
the  Mayas. — Itzamal,  the  holy  city.  —  The  Yucatecan  rebellion.  —  A  ravaged 
country.  —  Mural  paintings  and  sculptures.  —  The  great  ruined  city. — Chaacmol, 
the  Tiger  King.  —  A  disappointed  discoverer. — A  glance  at  Kabah. — Consul 
Ayme's  horse.  — The  man  on  horseback.  — M.  Charnay  and  his  theories.  —  How 
archaeologists  are  working.  —  How  they  should  work 94 

VI. 
A  GRAND  TURKEY  HUNT. 

The  ocellated  turkey.  —  John.  —  Our  dreadful  driver,  and  how  we  managed  him.  —  Motul. 

—  Its  Cenote.  —  "  Toh,"  the  bird  that  baffled  Noah  and  survived  the  flood.  —  A  Rev- 
olutionary General.  —  An  impromptu  ball.  —  An  array  of  beauty.  —  A  reasonable 
request.  —  A  town  where  English  had  never  been  spoken.  —  The  young  ladies  wish 
to  hear  it.  —  They  are  gratified.  —  English  speech-making  to  a  Spanish  audience.  — 
An  "  original  "  poem. — Timax,  an  isolated  town.  —  A  home-made  physician. — 
Another  dance.  —  A  dignity  ball.  —  The  Musicos.  —  The  Mestiza  ball.  —  Dancing 
against  one's  will.  —  "  Vaminos."  —  The  turkey-buzzard  dance.  —  The  Tore.  —  A 
change  of  scene.  —  The  dying  Indian  woman.  —  A  welcome  for  death 112 


CONTENTS.  xi 

VII. 

IN  THE  LOGWOOD  FORESTS. 

Sleeping  spoon-fashion.  —  A  bolt  for  the  coast.  —  The  great  mound  of  Dilam.  —  Izamal.  — 
The  start  for  the  rancho.  —  "  Muy  temprano."  —  A  Yucateco  Refresco.  —  The  lovely 
Aguada.  —  Rare  birds. —  The  camp.  — Logwood  cutters. —  Dinner-table  etiquette.  — 
"  At  your  disposal,  sir."  —  A  quarrel.  —  Familiar  Maya  words.  —  Weighing  the 
logwood,  —  Palo  de  Campeche.  —  Quail,  deer,  and  turkeys.  —  The  Indian  with  evil 
eyes.  —  The  haunts  of  adders.  —  A  walk  at  sunset.  —  Industrious  women.  —  Toil- 
ing at  the  mills      126 

VIII. 
NORTH  COAST  OF  YUCATAN. 

Trogons  and  parrots.  —  Wild  hemp.  —  Puntas  Arenas.  —  Sea  birds  by  the  thousand.  — 
The  Lagoon. —  Spoonbills  and  flamingoes. —  Ibis  and  heron. —  Fish  and  coco-nuts.  — 
Failure.  —  Cozumel  and  Isla  Mujeres.  —  First  landing  of  the  Spaniards.  —  Important 
discovery.  — The  Brasero,  or  incense  burner.  —  A  wilderness  of  ruins.  —  Tulum. — 
Rio  Lagartos. —  A  fall.  —  Puerto  de  Dilam.  —  Mangrove  forests.  —  Excessive  polite- 
ness. —  El  Viejo.  —  Timax  again  —  The  Medico  and  his  patients.  —  The  Correo.  — 
Motul. — Generous  Compaiieios.  —  Merida 136 


BOOK    II. 

CENTRAL  AND    SOUTHERN   MEXICO. 

IX. 
PALENQUE  AND  THE  PHANTOM   CITY. 

Farewell  to  Yucatan.  —  Why  one  should  love  the  Yucatecos.  —  An  honest  people. — 
The  Alexandre  steamers  — Delightful  voyaging.  —  Campeche.  —  Aboriginal  cata- 
combs.—  Champoton,  or  "Mala  pelea."  —  Laguna  de  Terminos.  —  Unexplored 
territory.  —  Frontera.  —  The  River  Tabasco,  or  Grijalva. — San  Juan  Bautista. — 
Marina,  the  Tabascan  Princess.  —  Palenque,  the  vast  group  of  ruins.  —  The 
"  Palenque  Cross."  — The  ancient  Xibalba.  —  Peten  and  Flores,  land  of  the  Itzaes. 
—  The  deified  horse.  —  Tizimin,  the  white  tapir. — The  mysterious  city. — An 
aboriginal  centre  of  civilization 155 

X. 

VERA  CRUZ  AND  JALAPA. 

River  Coatzcoalcos.  —  Tehuantepec. —  The  Inter-oceanic  Railroad.  —  Vera  Cruz,  a  lovely  • 
city  from  the  sea.  —  Isla  delos  Sactificios. — Castle  of  San  Juan  de   Ulua.  —  Peak 
of  Orizaba.  —  Mountain  of  tlie  Star.  —  The  Mole.  —  Zopilotes,  or  vultures.  —  Board 


xii  CONTENTS. 

of  health.  —  The  Plaza.  —  Tramways.  —  Sights  often  described.  —  Vomito,  or  yel- 
low fever.  —  The  customs  officials.  —  Dutiable  articles.  —  Vera  Cruz,  the  great 
Gulf  State.  —  \\  here  Cortes  landed.  — Jalapa,  a  refuge  from  heat  and  fever.  —  The 
mule-car.  —  The  great  Spanish  highway. —  Puente  Nacional.  —  Santa  Anna's 
hacienda.  —  Rinconada.  —  The  ubiquitous  engineer.  —  Cerro  Gordo,  a  reminiscence 
of  the  American  army.  —  The  hamlet.  —  Gardens  of  Jalapa.  —  The  mountain 
views.  —  Corn  and  coffee. — The  bewitching  Jalapeiias. — Jalap.  —  Vanilla. — 
Down  the  hills  to  the  hot  country 1 73 

XL 

FROM  COAST  TO  CAPITAL. 

The  great  Mexican  Railway.  —  The  Llanos.  —  Fire-flies.  —  Soledad.  —  Paso  del  Macho. 

—  Chiquihuite.  —  Bridge  of  Atoyac.  —  Barrancas  and  ravines. —  Cordova  and  the 
coffee  district.  —  A  diversion  from  the  track  of  travel.  —  Details  of  coffee  culture.  — 
Introduction  of  the  cinchona. —  The  coffee  of  Liberia,  the  West  Indies,  and  Mexico. — 
Barranca  of  Metlac.  —  The  tunnels.  —  The  Valley  of  Orizaba.  —  Products  of  two 
zones.  —  Coffee  and  cane,  grapes  and  mangos.  — Orizaba,  the  "  Joy  of  the  Water." 

—  Encinal.  —  The  gorge  of  Infemillo.  —  The  cross  on  the  precipice.  —  La  Joya, 
the  Jewel.  —  Maltrata.  —  The  region  of  pines.  —  The  mountain's  mouth.  —  Eight 
thousand  feet  above  the  coast. —  Esperanza,  the  Mexican  Hope. —  The  Great  Plateau. 

—  San  Marcos.  —  Tlascala.  —  Huamantla.  —  Apizaco.  —  Soltepec,  the  highest  point 
on  the  line. —  Apam,  the  Pulque  District. —  The  American  Maguey. —  Haciendas. — 
Otumba. — Valley  of  Mexico.  —  At  the  gates  of  the  capital 194 

XIL 

CITY  OF  MEXICO. 

Adrift.  — Hooper. — A  coimtry  to  suit  all  complexions.  —  A  friend  to  the  rescue 

The  room  en  the  roof-top. — Robbers. — The  Mexican  dwelling.  —  The  Patio. — 
The  Azotea.  —  Cortes  again.  —  First  entry  into  Mexico.  —  Expulsion.  —  Invest- 
ment. —  Capture.  —  The  new  city  built  on  the  old.  —  Plaza  Mayor.  — Aztec  Teocalli. 

—  The  first  Cathedral.  —  The  Sagrario.  —  Recent  exhumations.  —  A  magnificent 
temple  and  its  golden  treasures. — A  relic  of  Spanish  dominion.  —  Golden  lamps 
and  statues.  —  Those  days  of  old.  —  Descriptions  by  other  writers.  —  City  and  subur- 
ban tramways. —  In  the  Cathedral  towers.  —  The  Zocalo.  —  The  Flower  .Market.  — 
The  National  Palace.  —  Meteorological  Observatoiy  —  The  astronomer's  Elysium.  — 
A  relic  of  royalty. — The  Municipal  Palace. — Sombreros  and  Sarapes.  —  The 
Alameda.  —  A  view  too  vast  for  description.  —  The  wall  of  mountains.  —  Lake 
Tezcoco. —  Historic  hills.  —  Physical  facts  confirm  old  chronicles.  —  The  "enchanted 
city."  —  The  causeways.  —  Floods.  —  The  birds  of  the  lakes.  —  The  city  in  danger. 

—  The  Great  Tajo  of  Nochistongo.  —  Imperfect  drainage.  —  Filth  and  malaria    .     .     22T 

XIII. 
A  RAMBLE  AROUND  THE  CITY. 

Population  of  the  City  of  Mexico.  —  Latitude  and   elevation.  —  Climate. — Seasons. — 
Divisions  of  time.  —  The  siesta.  —  A  noble  charity,  Monte  Piedad.  —  P.iwn-shops. 

—  Mexican  fop  and  his  resources. — The  Mineria,  or  School  of  Mines.  —  Mexican 


CONTENTS.  xiii 

courtesy.  —  Calle  San  Francisco.  —  Hotel  Iturbide.  —  The  Escandon  and  porcelain 
house.  —  Convent  of  San  Francisco.  —  Methodist  mission  work.  —  The  great  library. 

—  Book-stalls.  —  Rare  and  ancient  volumes.  —  Old  houses.  —  Humboldt's  house.  — 
The  great  scientist's  work  in  Mexico. — The  Mint,  Casa  de  Moneda.  —  A  coinage 
reckoned  by  billions.  —  Amount  coined  up  to  18S3. — An  honest  dollar.  —  The 
Palace  of  the  Inquisition.  —  A  savor  of  heretics.  —  The  hospitals.  —  Panteon  (ceme- 
tery) of  San  Fernando. —  An  abode  of  illustrious  men.  —  The  irrepressible  conflict. 

—  Church  of  San  Hypolito.  —  Leap  of  Alvarado.  —  Aqueduct  of  San  Cosme. — 
American  cemetery.  —  Tacuba  and  the  tree  of  Noche  Triste.  —  Virgin  of  Remedios  .     244 


XIV. 

THE  MEXICANS  AT  HOME. 

The  author's  position  in  regard  to  the  Mexican.  —  How  the  10,000,000  population  is 
divided.  — Views  of  Senor  Cubas. —  The  Aborigines,  Creoles,  Mestizos. —  The  Indian, 
his  peculiarities  and  costume.  —  The  great  number  of  tribes  and  languages.  —  Who 
are  the  Creoles  ?  —  Family  life.  —  Morals.  —  The  Mestiz  s.  —  Their  origin.  —  Rep- 
resentative Mexicans.  —  Their  dress  and  characteristics.  —  The  Lepero,  a  true  prole- 
tarian. —  The  offspring  of  misery.  —  On  feast-days.  —  A  born  thief.  —  The  Empeno. 
—  Pawning  American  garments.  —  Nothing  safe  out  of  doors  that  one  man  can 
lift.  —  How  a  Lepero  pawned  a  cloak,  —  and  another  a  church  organ.  —  Their  san- 
guinary disposition.  —  The  Mexican  race  described  by  various  authors.  — Their  utter 
turpitude. —  Their  many  virtues.  —  Why  they  love  the  French.  — Because  the 
Frenchman  is  gushing.  —  Why  they  should  be  shy  of  foreigners.  —  Because  the 
foreigner  is  mercenary-  —  Summary  by  a  distinguished  writer  :  gentle,  hospitable, 
benevolent,  brave.  —  To  which  the  author  subscribes 271 


XV. 

FEASTS  AND  FESTIVALS.— MEXICAN  MISSIONS. 

The  Devil  in  Mexico,  and  his  methods.  —  Ancient  Gods  of  the  Mexicans.  —  Religious 
rites.  —  How  the  Aztecs  were  converted.  — The  sway  of  the  Church.  —  Its  rise  and 
fall.  —  Its  lost  opportunity.  —  Beginning  of  Protestantism.  —  The  Bible  in  Mexico. 

—  First  missions.  —  The  first  martyr.  —  Growth  of  the  mission  movement.  —  A  mis- 
sion map. —  Statistics. — Politics  and  politicians. — Society.  —  Customs  and  court- 
ships. —  Policemen.  —  Serenos,  or  watchmen.  —  The  gentle  Mexicans.  —  The 
Aguador,  or  water-carrier.  —  A  picturesque  person.  —  Clandestine  meetings.  — 
Playing  the  bear       291 

XVI. 

A  DAY  IN  THE  MUSEUMS. 

The  Mexican  Museum.  —  Museo  Nacional.  — Sacrificial  Stone.  — Chaacmol.  —  Huitzi- 
lopochtli.  —  Temple  of  the  W'ar-god.  —  The  Gods  of  Aztlan.  —  Pictures  of  Viceroys. 

—  Picture-writing.  —  A  benevolent  government.  —  The  foreign  archaeologist.  — 
Maiiana. —  Founding  of  the  Museum.  —  Early  history.  —  Its  officers  and  their 
labors.  —  Annals  of  the  Museum.  —  Montezuma's  Shield. — The  Sacrificial  Stone. 


XIV  CONTENTS. 

—  The  Calendar  Stone,  its  history  and  its  meaning.  —  Portrait  of  Cortes.  —  Armor 
of  Alvarado.  —  Feather  pictures.  —  Aztec  art.  —  Mexican  "  rag  figures."  —  Types  of 
people.  —  The  Aguador,  Cargador,  and  Carbonero. — Institute  of  San  Carlos. — 
A  look  through  the  Academy.  —  Paintings  by  old  masters.  —  Velasco's  "  Valley  of 
Mexico." — Parra's  "  Las  Casas."  —  The  "  Massacre  in  the  Temple  " 305 

XVI  I. 
THE  MARKETS  AND  FLOATING  GARDENS. 

A  stride  through  the  markets.  —  Products  of  every  zone.  —  The  omnipresent  baby.  — 
Where  the  flowers  are  sold,  — and  where  they  come  from.  — A  redeeming  trait  of  the 
Aztec  character.  —  Inborn  taste  for  flowers.  —  Beauty  a  begging.  —  Bridge  of  La 
Viga. — The  American  Veni:e  and  its  gondoliers. — To  the  Floating  Gardens. — 
Guatemotzin.  —  Among  the  Chinampas.  —  How  Floating  Gardens  are  formed.  — 
What  are  grown  on  them.  —  A  wonderful  lake.  —  A  sunken  city.  —  Chalco.  —  An 
ancient  town.  — ■  Food-supplying  insects.  —  "  Cakes  like  unto  brick-bats."  —  The 
Axayacatl.  —  The  lizard-frog.  —  The  American  Aloe,  or  Maguey.  —  Pulque,  and 
how  it  is  made.  —  Aguamiel,  or  honey-water.  —  Analysis  of  pulque.  —  The  princess 
who  invented  a  drink.  —  The  Mexican  tipple.  —  A  precursor  of  cocktails.  —  Meat 
markets.  —  Perambulating  butcher-shops.  —  A  clamorous  crowd.  —  Universal  de- 
pravity of  the  milkman. —  Don  Felipe  and  his  cow 327 

XVIII. 

THE   GRAND    PASEO,    CHAPULTEPEC,  EL   DESIERTO, 
AND  GUADALUPE. 

The  Alameda.  —  Statue  of  Carlos  IV.  —  The  Grand  Paseo.  —  A  magnificent  avenue.  — 
Glorietas.  —  Statues  to  Columbus,  Cortes,  Guatemotzin.  —  A  resort  of  wealth  and 
fashion.  —  The  need  of  Mexico.  —  No  American  hotel.  —  The  future  American 
quarter.  —  The  new  City  of  Mexico.  —  The  ancient  quarries.  —  Marble  baths.  — 
Maximilian's  scheme.  —  Chapultepec.  —  The  Castle.  —  MoHno  del  Rey.  —  Monte- 
zuma, his  cypress,  his  harem,  and  his  bath.  —  The  Aqueducts.  —  Ancient  rock 
carvings.  —  The  battles  of  '47.  —  Dolores.  —  Tacubaya.  —  San  Angel.  —  The  gam- 
bling centre. — Shepherds  and  cut-throats.  —  The  Carmelite  Convent. — Chartering 
a  diligence.  — The  Meson.  —  The  man  with  No  hay. —  "  Trot  out  your  donkeys." 

—  A  sad  procession.  —  The  Monks'  Paradise.  —  Pearls,  crowns,  and  golden  chains. 

—  Balaam  and  his  Burro.  —  The  donkey  brigade.  —  The  Shrine  and  Virgin  of 
Guadalupe.  —  The  stone  ship 349 

XIX. 

POPOCATAPETL. 

The  two  huge  peaks.  —  An  active  volcano.  —  The  Smoking  Mountain.  —  A  comparison. 

—  Volcano  of  Jorullo.  —  The  Morelos  Railroad.  —  San  Lazaro.  —  Amecameca.  — 
Iztaccihuatl. — The  dead  giantess.  —  A  holy  hill.  —  Sacro  Monte. — An  ascent  of 
Popocatapetl.  —  Warnings. —  In  disguise. — A  Volcanero. — A  practised  phleboto- 
mist.  —  Ten  thousand  feet  up.  —  "  Are  you  armed  ? "  —  The  black  crosses.  —  Pious 
murderers.  —  The  dark  forest.  —  Lost.  —  Cuidado  !  —  Coyotes  and  Pumas.  —  At 
last!  —  Don  Domingo.  —  Rancho  of  TIamacas.  —  Sulphur  and  ice. — Pico  del 
Fraile.  —  Disheartening  stories.  —  Baffled  tourists.  —  A  deep   Barranca. —  Shifting 


CONTENTS.  XV 

sands.  —  La  Cruz.  —  Limit  of  vegetation.  —  A  sublime  spectacle.  —  The  White 
Woman.  —  Desciiption  by  Cortes.  —  Valley  of  Mexico.  —  Orizaba.  —  At  the  snow 
line.  —  Enveloped  in   fog.  —  Climbing   the  cone.  —  Above   the    clouds. —  Advice. 

—  My    "  guides."  — Value   of  coca.  —  The  Crater.  — The   God  of   Storms. 

Eighteen  thousand  feet  above  the  sea. —  The  finding  of  sulphur. —  Scientific  inves- 
tigation.—  Minute  description  of  the  crater.  —  Sulfataras.  —  Sulphur  vents. —  A 
storm  in  the  upper  regions.  —  Photographing  against  odds.  —  Battle-field  of  the 
elements.  —  A  test  of  endurance.  —  The  slide  down  the  cone.  —  A  misstep.  —  The 
field  of  ashes.  —  Sunset.  —  Popocatapetl  compared  with  other  high  mountains  .     .     .     371 

XX. 

A  JOURNEY  IN  A  DILIGENCE. 

The  Mexican  Diligence.  —  American  battle-fields. — Churubusco  and  the  Pedregal. — 
Cruz  del  Marques.  —  Cuemavaca,  home  of  Cortes.  —  Mexican  missionaries.  —  The 
vast  Barrancas.  —  Scenes  of  past  fights.  —  Palace  of  Cortes.  — Gardens  of  Laborde. 

—  Artificial  lakes.  —  Hunting  in  a  plantain  grove.  —  Sugar  and  coffee.  —  El  Castillo. 

—  Ruins  of  Xochicalco.  —  The  Caverns.  —  Strange  sculptured  forms.  —  Cacahua- 
milpa.  —  A  Mexican  Mammoth  Cave.  —  The  saloon  of  the  dead.  — A  subterranean 
wonder. — Gardens  of  Maximihan.  —  Staging  it  by  torchlight 396 

XXI. 

THE   MEXICAN    RAILWAY    MOVEMENT. 

A  chapter  to  read  or  skip.  —  Explanation  of  Map.  —  History  of  the  great  railway  move- 
ment.—  List  of  Concessions  granted  up  to  1884,  with  subsidies,  length,  and  obliga- 
tions. —  Territory  traversed  by  the  railways.  —  The  Me.xican  Railway.  —  The 
"Central,"  the  railway  back-bone  of  the  Mexican  Plateau.  —  Its  charter  and  obliga- 
tions. —  Cities  on  its  line.  —  Topography  and  resources  of  region  penetrated.  —  A 
Mexican's  estimate  of  its  agricultural  and  mineral  wealth.  —  The  initial  movement.  — ■ 
Rapid  progress,  northward  and  southward.  — Crossing  the  Rio  Grande.  —  Exit  from 
the  Valley  of  Mexico.  —  Enthusiastic  receptions.  —  Triumphant  advance.  —  Track 
completed  and  road-bed  graded. — The  "Mexican  National."  —  Short  line  to  Texas 
and  New  Orleans. —  Subsidy  of  $7,000  per  kilometre. —  Cities  tributary  to  this  line. — 
Triumph  over  difficulties. — An  adventure  with  a  pay  train. — $30,000  in  silver. — 
Length  of  line  completed.  —  A  rival  of  the  Burro.  —  Morelos  Railroad.  —  The  Trans- 
continental Route.  —  Grand  banquet.  —  A  terrible  accident.  —  Difference  between 
rainy  and  dry  season.  —  Railway  building,  Mexican  and  American  methods  con- 
trasted.—  At  the  wrong  end. — General  summary. — Will  these  roads  pay.?  —  The 
bands  that  bind  our  sister 416 

XXII. 
A  RIDE  THROUGH  A  MINING  REGION. 

"  Mucho  polvo." — The  face  of  nature  dusted. — "  Si,  Seiior." —  An  involuntary  clay-eater. — 
Pachuca.  —  Seiior  Medina,  discoverer  of  the  Patio  Process.  —  The  Anglo-Spanish 
mining  fever.  —  Mines  in  Bonanza.  —  $90,000  per  share.  —  $4,000,000  in  four  years. 

—  San  Rosario  mine.  —  $100,000,000  from  a  single  mine.  —  The  castle  of  the  silver 
king.  — A  mine  three  hundred  years  old.  —  How  miners  steal  the  ore.  —  Abandoned 
mines.  —  Those  silver  hills.  —  Millions  and  billions.  —  The  mining  laws  of  Mexico. 

—  Their  impartial  and  just  workings.  —  Mining  terms.  —  Requirements  for  denoun- 


XVi  CONTENTS. 

cing  a  mine.  —  Real  del  Monte. — The  English  venture.  —  $20,000,000  output, 
gi6,ooo,ooo  income.  —  Veins  miles  in  length,  worked  for  350  years.  —  Giant's 
Causeway  of  America.  — The  Cascade  of  Regla.  —  Basaltic  columns.  —  How  a  mu- 
leteer became  a  Count. — A  silver  footpath.  —  500,000  pounds  of  silver.  —  The  Patio 
Process. — Silver  dust  and  mud.  —  A  wasteful  process.  —  The  Arrastre. — My 
Mozo. — Obsidian  and  Obsidian  Mines. — San  Miguel.  —  The  Saxony  Process. — 
Chilenos.  —  Ojos  de  Agua.  —  Total  product  of  Mexican  mines  over  ^4, 000, 000, 000. 

—  Richest  regions  in  the  Rejjublic.  — The  cavern  of  silver.  —  A  field  of  doubtful 
profit.  —  Miners  on  the  rampage 446 

XXIII.  ' 

TOLTEC  RUINS  AND  PYRAMIDS. 

Northward  out  of  the  valley. — The  bull-fight. — The  great  Canal. —  Railroad  building 
widi  Mexicans.  —  Huts  of  aloes  leaves. — Tula,  City  of  the  Toltecs.  —  Ruins  of 
Indian  cities. — A  very  old  church.  —  Toltec  remains  unearthed. —  A  chance  for 
archaeologists. — God  of  the  Air. — The  City  of  the  Gods. — Teotihuacan. —  Pyra- 
mids of  the  Sun  and  Moon.  —  The  road  of  the  dead.  —  A  Treasure-chamber.  — 
Heads  of  clay  and  terra-cotta.  —  Egyptian  pyramids.  —  Tezcoco,  the  Athens  of 
Anahuac.  —  A  hunt  for  a  missionary.  —  On  his  blind  side.  —  A  quiet  city.  — 
More  ruins.  —  Tienda  and  Fonda.  —  Brigantines  of  Cortes. —  Palace  of  the  Hungry 
Jackal. —  Ruins  of  reservoirs .     .     469 

XXIV. 
TLASCALA,  PUEBLA,  AND  CHOLULA. 

Apizaco.  —  Chieftains  of  Tlascala.  —  Banner  of  Cort6s.  —  Convent  of  early  times.  — 
Old  bells.  —  Ancient  font.  —  The  first  pulpit  in  New  Spain.  — The  Meson.  — The 
ever-present  Cross.  — City  of  Puebla.  —  A  centre  of  priestly  power.  —  "  Pay  or  pray." 

—  The  City  of  the  Angels.  —  A  miracle  somewhere.  —  A  gorgeous  cathedral.  — 
Mexican  onyx.  —  Translucent  tecalli.  —  Church  treasures.  —  A  sanctimonious  city. 

—  Libraries  and  paintings.  —  A  wonderful  market.  —  Alarming  telegrams.  —  The 
disappointed  agriculturist.  —  A  "holy  terror." — Mexican  versus  vulture.  —  Pawn- 
ing a  plough. —  Stealing  the  teeth  from  a  harrow.  —  Untrustworthy  people.  —  Pyra- 
mid of  Cholula.  —  The  Feathered  Serpent.  —  Old  conventual  structure.  —  The  man 
with  a  butterfly  net.  —  A  naturalist's  privileges.  —  A  safeguard  in  Mexican  travel  .     .     492 


XXV. 
SIX  WEEKS  IN  SOUTHERN  MEXICO. 

The  Place  of  Pomegranates.— City  of  the  Miztec  Gods.  — Cerro  Colorado.—  The  Grant- 
Romero  Railway.  —  A  Sunday  bull-fight.  —  A  skirmish  with  fleas.  —  The  Organ 
Cactus.  —  Nopal,  or  Prickly-pear.  —  A  sugar  plantation.  —  The  drunken  musicians. 

—  Dominguillo.  —  A  house  and  a  cow-yard.  —  Zapotecs  and  Miztecs.  —  The  buried 
golden  throne.  —  Valley  of  Oaxaca.  —  Horseback  and  muleback.  —  The  triple  valley. 

—  Fruits  and  cabinet  woods. — Indian  opposition  to  immigration. — A  man  to  the 
square  foot.  —  Antequera  the  Beautiful.  —  The  home  of  distinguished  men. — In- 
stitute of  Oaxaca. — The  Museum.  —  Monte  Alban.  —  Hedges  of  cactus.  —  Co- 
chineal culture.  —  An  industry  of  the  past 514 


CONTENTS.  xvii 

XXVI. 

THE   WONDERFUL   PALACES    OF    MITLA. 

Mitla.  —  A   Mexican  giant.  —  Astonished    Mozo.  —  Cannibal    Indians.  —  Tlacolula. 

The  Zapotec  dwelling  of  the  dead.  —  Elaborate  ornamentation.  —  Peculiar  mosaics. 

—  The  Pillar  of  Death.  —  Blocks  of  porphyry.  —  Egyptian  characters.  —  Idols  of 
clay.  —  Grecques.  —  A  sanguinary  battle.  —  Montezuma's  daughter.  —  The  buried 
chamber. — St.  John  of  the  Drunkards.  —The  Alcalde,  and   his  badge   of   office. 

—  The  giant  tree  of  Tule.  —  A  find  of  copper  axes.  —  That  fabled  mine  of  gold.  — 
Gorged  with  ruins.  —  The  mines  of  Montezuma.  —  Don  Santos  Gomez. — Our 
frisky  mule. — A  Caballero's  equipments. —  The  Mexican  horse  and  its  caparison. 

—  The  Sarape,  Manga,  and  Poncho.  —  Saddle,  bits,  and  bridle.  —  Sabre  and  pistols. 

—  An  aboriginal  garment.  —  Off  for  the  hills.  —  Indians  of  the  Sierras. —  Unso- 
phisticated people.  —  The  Cabildo,  or  King's  House.  —  "  Mexican  Connection."  — 
Six  weeks  in  the  saddle.  —  A  bolt  for  the  coast. —  Smitten  with  fever. — Small-pox 
and  vomito.  —  Unanswered  telegrams.  —  A  ravaged  town.  —  On  the  Yucatan  shore. 

—  A  "Norther."  —  Death  on  sliipboard. — Havana 531 


BOOK    III. 

THE   BORDER   STATES. 

XXVIL 
BY   RAIL   TO    NORTHERN    MEXICO. 

Again  en  route  for  Mexico.  —  A  change  of  scene.  —  Three  thousand  miles  by  rail.  — 
Kaleidoscopic  changes.  —  Through  ticket  for  the  Aztec  Capital.  —  Across  Texas  in 
a  hotel   car.  —  San  Antonio.  —  The  Alamo.  —  Old  Missions.  —  Town  of  Laredo. 

—  An  old  Presidio.  —  Chaparral. — The  stock  craze.  —  Texan  heroes. — On  the 
Border.  —  The  great  Gould  System  of  Railways,  and  its  Mexican  connections.  —  The 
National  Railway. — Close  competition  in  bridge-building. —  A  dusty  place.  —  The 
gateway  to  the  Land  of  Gold.  —  Corpus  Christi.  —  The  Oriental  Road. — Senor 
Milmo  and  his  Mesa.  —  Pat  Mullins  for  short.  —  Palo  Blanco.  —  Bustamente. — 
Monterey,  the  beautiful  city.  —  An  "  Invalid's  Paradise."  —  Delightful  climate. 
Dirty  inhabitants.  —  Taylor's  battle-ground.  —  The  new  health  resort.  —  Hot  springs 
of  Topo  Chico.  —  La  Mitra  and  La  Silla. —  Bathing  by  proxy. — Bull-ring  and 
cock-pit.  —  Border  Ruffians.  —  The  North  American  invasion.  —  Opposition  to 
the  Saxon  immigrant.  —  Bishop's  Palace. — El  Gringo.  —  Murders  on  the  line. — 
Mexican  justice.  —  Police.  —  Americans  in  the  calaboose.  —  Saltillo.  —  Buena  Vista. 

—  Enchanted  Valley. — San  Luis  Potosi.  —  A  piece  of  gold.  —  A  Conducta      .     .     .     553 

XXVIIL 

ALONG   THE   RIO   GRANDE   VALLEY. 

Coal-fields  of  the  Pecos  and  Rio  Grande.  — The  "  Sunset  Route." —  Southern  Pacific. 

—  Midnight   connections.  —  Spofford    Junction.  —  Eagle   Pass. — Truly   an   open 
house.  —  "  Not  that  kind  of  a  hair-pin."  —  Over  the  Rio  Grande  again.  —  Piedras 


xviil  CONTENTS. 


Negras. —  The  great  Natural  Portal.  —  Up  a  telegraph-pole.  —  A  lively  chase. 
—  The  International  Railway.  —  Sabinas  Valley.  —  State  of  Saltillo  and  its  min- 
erals. —  Track-laying  extraordinary.  —  A  feeble  protest.  —  A  new  industry.  —  Ex- 
citing times  for  engineers.  —  The  calaboose  in  prospect.  —  "  Fools  caught  in  Mex- 
ico."—  Murdered  by  Kickapoos.  —  In  Texas  again. —  Devil's  River. —  Painted 
Caves.  —  Prairie-dogs  and  antelope.  —  El  Paso.  —  A  growing  city.  —  Atchison, 
Topeka,  and  Santa  Fe  Railroad.  —  A  model  newspaper. — Paso  del  Norte. — 
An  old  church.  —  Vineyards  and  gardens 577 


XXIX. 

CHIHUAHUA,  THE  GREAT  FRONTIER  STATE. 

Over  the  Central  Railway.  —  The  Medanos.  —  Casas  Grandes.  —  Ancient  ruins.  — 
Caravan  journeys.  —  Montezuma.  —  Rumors  of  Apaches.  —  A  desert  region.  —  A 
vast  Hacienda.  —  Chihuahua.  —  Approach  to  the  city.  —  The  great  church.  —  Ameri- 
can hotels.  —  Ruined  convent.  —  Silver  mines  of  Santa  Eulalia.  —  Don  Enrique's 
Hacienda.  —  Smelting  companies.  —  The  Alameda.  —  "Americans"  born  in  Ire- 
land. —  Who  commit  the  murders.  —  Silver  mines  of  Batopilas.  —  Lumps  of 
silver.  — Scanty  market  supplies.  —  Hot  Springs  of  Santa  Rosalia.  — Valley  of  Rio 
Florida.  —  Frontier  of  Durango.  —  Route  of  the  Central  southward.  —  Cerro  Mer- 
cado.  —  The  Iron  Mountain.  —  Pottery  of  Guadalajara.  —  Over  land  by  mule  team. 

—  Cathedral  of  Guadalajara. — The  Chihuahua  dog. — Protestant  Mission      .     .     .     601 

XXX. 

SONORA  AND  THE  APACHE  COUNTRY. 

Indians  of  the  Haciendas.  —  A  meeting  with  General  Crook.  —  A  moonlight  ride  to  the 
Apache  camp.  —  Armed  captives.  —  Inveterate  gamblers.  —  White  men  outwitted. 

—  Adepts  at  poker  and  monte.  — The  price  of  blood.  —  Murdered  men's  money.  — 
Our  Indian  policy.  —  The  white  boy  captive.  —  Scouting  in  the  Sierras.  —  Crook's 
desperate  venture.  —  Map  of  the  Apache  country.  —  Did  Crook  capture  the  Indians? 

—  or  the  Indians  capture  Crook?  —  Why  they  sent  in  their  squaws  and  pappooses. 

—  Another  dip  into  Me.xico.  —  Arezuma,  land  of  gold.  —  Sonora,  land  of  surprises.  — 
The  Sonora  Railroad.  —  Benson.  —  Nogales.  —  Tombstone.  —  Magdalena.  —  Her- 
mosillo.  —  The  Hill  of  Bells,  CeiTo  de  las  Campanas. —  Orange  and  citron  groves. 
— The  Dark-eyed  Seiiorita.  —  Is  she  a  myth  ?  —  Guaymas.  —  Gulf  of  California.  — 
A  natural  Dutch  oven.  —  Not  quite  so  bad  as  painted.  —  A  vast  navigation  scheme. 

—  Sleeping  in  the  streets.  —  Pearls  and  pearl  fisheries. — The  gold  excitement  of 
Lower  California.  —  Down  the  Sea  of  Cortes.  — Yaqui  and  Mayo  Indians.  —  Natives 

of  Shark  Island.  —  Water-carriers  and  their  donkeys.  —  Adios  I 627 


INDEX 659 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


1.  Valley  of  Mexico Frontispiece 

2.  Colored  Map  of  Mexico 21 

3.  Yucatan  Custom-House       26 

4.  Cathedral  of  Merida 29 

5.  Casa  Municipal 33 

6.  Oldest  House  in  Yucatan l,! 

7.  A  Tortilla-Seller 44 

8.  A  City  Gate 47 

9.  Old  Church  of  Santiago • 52 

10.  An  Inner  Court 55 

11.  Caleza  and  Volante 5^ 

12.  Ruined  City  of  Uxmal 59 

13.  Hacienda  Corridor 65 

14.  Palace  of  the  Vestals 69 

15.  Court  of  the  Serpent 73 

16.  The  Maya  Arch  (American  Aboriginal) n 

17.  The  "Elephant  Trunks" 79 

18.  Arch  of  the  Akabnd 85 

19.  The  Little  Grass-Seller 87 

20.  Columns  of  Akd 9° 

21.  The  Great  Katunes 92 

22.  Hieroglyph  of  the  God  of  Fire 97 

23.  Nun's  Palace,  Chichen-Itza 99 

24.  Gigantic  Head  of  Izamal 103 

25.  Carcel  of  Chichen 105 

26.  Chaacmol,  the  Tiger-King 109 

27.  A  Column  of  the  Katunes        .     .» m 

28.  A  Volan-Cochd 113 

29.  The  Ramon-Seller 115 

30.  Yucatan  Mestizos 119 

31.  The  Prettiest  Girl  in  the  Room 123 

32.  The  Yucatan  Cuisine 125 

33.  Music  of  the  Toro 128 

34.  Our  Indian  Carrier 132 

35.  La  Tortillera 138 

36.  Figure  in  Terra-Cotta i44 

37.  An  Incense-Burner 146 

38.  Yucatan  Fruit-Seller 15° 

39.  An  Indian  Mother  and  Child 152 


XX  LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS. 

40.  Plan  of  Palenque 157 

41.  A  Restoration 160 

42.  An  Ornament  in  Stucco 162 

43.  Tablet  of  the  Cross 165 

44.  Temple  of  the  Cross 167 

45.  A  Statue  from  Palenque 168 

46.  Sculptured  Idol  from  Copan 169 

47.  City  of  Vera  Cruz 175 

48.  The  Zopilote 177 

49.  Vera  Cruz  from  the  Sand-hills 183 

50.  El  Puente  Nacional 187 

51.  The  Vanilla  Plant 190 

52.  Pyramid  of  Papantla 192 

53.  Transcontinental  Profile  of  Mexico 195 

54.  Palms  of  the  Coast 196 

55.  In  Tierra  Caliente 199 

56.  A  Ravine  in  Tierra  Templada 203 

57.  A  Coffee  Plantation 209 

58.  District  and  Volcano  of  Orizaba 211 

59.  A  Native  Hut  {Jacal) 214 

60.  Peak  and  Crater  of  Orizaba 219 

61.  Court  of  the  National  Museum 225 

62.  The  Great  Cathedral 229 

63.  Interior  of  the  Cathedral 233 

64.  Fagade  of  the  Sa^rario 239 

65.  Relative  Levels  of  Lakes  and  City 241 

66.  Canal  of  Nochistongo 242 

67.  City  of  Mexico 245 

68.  The    Plaza  Mayor 249 

69.  Hotel  Iturbide 255 

70.  Convent  of  La  Merced 259 

71.  Church  of  San  Domingo 262 

72.  A  Funeral  Car 266 

73.  Tree  of  Noche  Triste 269 

74.  Mexican  Pottery 270 

75.  A  Native  Indian ...  273 

76.  Indian  Woman 275 

77.  A  Creole  Beauty 277 

78.  Mestizo  of  the  Table  Land 280 

79.  Indian  Servant 282 

80.  The  Lepero 285 

81.  Serenos,  or  Night  Watchmen 286 

82.  The  Water-Carrier 288 

83.  Little  Gods 293 

84.  Mother  of  the  Gods 295 

85.  A  Vender  of  Holy  Relics 298 

86.  Mission  Map  of  Mexico 300 

87.  The  Sacrificial  Stone 306 

88.  Upper  Surface  of  Sacrificial  Stone 307 

89.  Procession  of  Conquering  Kings 30? 

90.  The  Calendar  Stone 311 

91.  Aztec  Cycle 311 

92.  Huitzilopochtli,  God  of  War 314 

93.  Aztec  I 'icture- Writing,  the  Cave  Period 316 


UST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS.  xxi 

94.  Aztec  Picture- Writmg,  Nomadic  Period 317 

95.  A  Vase  in  the  Museum 319 

96.  "Sacrificial  Collar" 320 

97.  Figure  in  Wax 322 

98.  Vegetable  Vender 326 

99.  In  the  Market 328 

100.  His  own  Handiwork 329 

loi.  Canal  of  La  Viga 333 

102.  From  the  Floating  Gardens 335 

103.  Hill  of  the  Star 337 

104.  The  Axolotl  {Siredofi) 340 

105.  The  Maguey 342 

106.  Extracting   Aguamiel 345 

107.  Statue  of  Columbus 351 

108.  Castle  of  Chapultepec 357 

109.  The  Alameda 361 

no.  Those  Monks  of  Old 366 

111.  Bridge  at  El  Desierto 368 

112.  Volcano  of  Jorullo 372 

113.  La  Mujer  Blanca 374 

114.  Popocatapetl 377 

115.  The  Peak,  from  the  Snow  Line 384 

116.  Volcanoes,  from  the  Valley 387 

117.  At  the  Summit 392 

118.  Mexican  Mountains 395 

119.  On  the  Way  to  Market 399 

120.  The  Double  Aqueduct 403 

121.  Castle  of  Xochicalco 409 

122.  Sculptured  Fragment  from  Palenque 411 

123.  Cavern  of  Cacahuamilpa 413 

124.  La  Pollera  (Chicken-Seller) 414 

125.  Railway  Map  of  Mexican  Valley 417 

126.  From  Gulf  to  Table  Land 424 

127.  Port  of  San  Bias 428 

128.  Valley  of  Tula 431 

129.  City  of  Guanajuato 437 

130.  A  View  from  Ozumba 443 

131.  Mining  Town  of  Pachuca 449 

132.  Mexican  Miners       .         453 

133.  A  Mining  District 458 

134.  Cascade  of  Regla 460 

135.  A  Strolling  Musician 468 

136.  Toltec  Ruins 471 

137.  Town  of  Tula        474 

138.  Caryatides 476 

139.  City  of  Queretaro 479 

140.  Sculptured  Pillars 482 

141.  Pyramids  of  Teotihuacan 483 

142.  Heads  of  Clay 485 

143.  An  Ideal  Garden 487 

144.  First  Pulpit  in  America 493 

145.  Old  Stone  Font 494 

146.  A  Carving  in  the  Convent 496 

147.  City  and  Valley  of  Puebla 499 


xxii  LIST   OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

148.  Puebla  and  Vicinity 503 

149.  A  Mexican  Plough 506 

150.  Ouetzalcoatl    .     .         508 

151.  Pyramid  of  Cholula 511 

152.  The  Ever-present  Cross 513 

153.  Hedges  of  Cactus 516 

154.  The  Governor's  Palace,  Oaxaca 521 

155.  Coffee  Berries ....  524 

156.  An  Indian  Market,  Oaxaca 526 

157.  Nopal  Leaf  with  Cochineal  Insects 530 

158.  "Grand  Sala,"  Mitla 532 

159.  Hall  of  Monoliths 535 

160.  The  Mitla  Mosaic 539 

161.  A  New  Discovery 543 

162.  Two  Types  of  "  Copper  Axes  " 544 

163.  Don  Santos,  Prince  of  Guides 548 

164.  El  Alcalde  (Gcnte  de  Razoti) 550 

165.  Monterey  and  La  Silla 557 

166.  The  Plaza  and  La  Mitra 563 

167.  Cathedral  of  Monterey 567 

168.  Mexican  Bit,  Bridle,  and  Spurs 569 

169.  The  Parian 571 

170.  The  Cock-pit 573 

171.  The  Hotel  Portal 579 

172.  A  Mexican  Cart 582 

173.  Bridge  across  the  Rio  Grande 584 

174.  Paso  del  Norte 589 

175.  Old  Church  at  Paso  del  Norte 593 

176.  Church   Interior 597 

177.  Indian  Idols 600 

178.  New  Mexican  Pueblo  603 

179.  Ruins  of  Casas  Grandes 607 

180.  Great  Church  of  Chihuahua 613 

181.  Cathedral  of  Guadalajara 621 

182.  From  the  South 626 

183.  Apache  Squaws 629 

184.  An  Apache  and  his  Wigwams 632 

185.  A  Warrior  and  his  Weapons 635 

186.  Map  of  the  Apache  Country 639 

187.  The  Portales  of  Alamos 645 

188.  Town  and  Harbor  of  Guaymas 651 

189.  Donkey  Boys  of  Guaymas 655 

190.  The  Mexican  Beggar  (JPordiosero) 658 


BOOK     I. 


YUCATAN. 


"  World  wrongly  called  the  New  !  this  clime  was  old 
When  first  the  Spaniard  came,  in  search  of  gold. 
Age  after  age  its  shadowy  wings  had  spread, 
And  man  was  born,  and  gathered  to  the  dead  ; 
Cities  arose,  ruled,  dwindled  to  decay. 
Empires  were  formed,  then  darkly  swept  away  : 
Race  followed  race,  like  cloud-shades  o'er  the  field, 
The  stranger  still  to  strangers  doomed  to  yield. 
The  last  grand  line  that  swayed  these  hills  and  waves, 
Like  Israel,  wandered  long  'mid  wilds  and  caves, 
Then,  settling  in  their  Canaan,  cities  reared. 
Fair  Science  wooed,  a  milder  God  revered, 
Till  to  invading  Europe  bowed  their  pride, 
And  pomp,  art,  power,  with  Montezuma,  died." 


A   GLIMPSE   OF   YUCATAN. 

WE  sailed  at  hazard  towards  that  part  of  the  horizon  where 
the  sun  set."  In  these  words  Captain  Bernal  Diaz, 
companion  of  Cortes,  tells  of  the  approach  of  the  Spanish  fleet 
to  Yucatan,  in  15 17. 

We  came,  like  those  first  Spanish  navigators,  from  the  east, 
from  the  fair  island  of  Cuba,  and  we  too  sought  the  land  that 
lay  beyond  the  western  horizon ;  but  not  at  hazard,  and  when 
a  long,  low  line  of  sand  appeared,  one  morning,  we  knew  it  was 
the  coast  of  the  mysterious  peninsula. 

Easternmost  land  of  Mexico,  it  presents  the  farther  front  of 
that  ancient  continent  that  may  once  have  extended  to  Cuba, 
and  beyond,  —  to  Atlantis,  to  Africa.  Without  it,  perhaps,  there 
would  have  been  no  Gulf  Stream ;  and  that  warm  river  of  the 
sea,  diverted  from  our  Northern  shores,  would  have  fertihzed 
and  vivified  other  countries  instead.  Had  it  not  stood  so  boldly 
out,  inviting  those  reckless  Spaniards  to  conquest  and  plunder, 
Mexico  might  have  remained  till  now  as  the  aboriginal  Culua, 
and  the  world  of  to-day  be  enjoying  the  benefits  of  its  wonderful 
civilization.  But  what  Yucatan  might  have  been  had  it  been 
different,  or  left  to  the  people  who  ruled  it  four  hundred  years 
ago,  we  may  better  speculate  upon  after  we  have  seen  it.  Let  us 
go  on  shore. 

The  coast  lay  full  in  sight  at  daybreak,  and  at  nine  o'clock 
the  steamer  anchored,  several  miles  from  shore.  Scarce  rising 
above  the  sea,  a  v/hite  sand-bank,  relieved  by  groups  of  palms, 
a  few  tile-covered  houses,  and  a  long  wharf,  lay  blazing  in  the 
sun.  This  was  Progreso,  only  port  of  entry  of  Yucatan.  Some 
vessels  lay  at  anchor  there,  and  a  dozen  lighters  put  out  from 


26 


TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 


the  beach  and  sailed  towards  us.  As  they  neared  the  steamer, 
we  could  note  that  their  crews  wore  cotton  garments,  and  were 
clean ;  some  wore  no  shirts,  and  some  no  trousers,  but  all 
were  clean.  This  is  said  to  be  the  notable  difference  between 
Yucatecans  and  Aztecs :  these  are  clean,  those  are  dirty. 


THE   CUSTOM-HOUSE. 


The  wind  was  fair,  we  were  soon  on  shore,  and  the  customs 
officials  were  examining  our  luggage.  Then  we  were  conducted 
to  the  hotel,  a  thatched  structure  with  stone  walls,  and  a  sleep- 
ing apartment  over  the  stable.  This  dormitory  contained  four 
hammocks  and  a  wash-basin ;  and  enough  spiders  and  scor- 
pions were  supposed  to  lurk  in  the  thatch  overhead  to  make 
it  interesting. 

Besides  the  hotel  and  the  custom-house,  there  were  a  few 
score  of  tiled  houses  and  thatched  huts,  several  stores,  a  market, 


A   GLIMPSE    OF    YUCATAN.  2/ 

and  a  church.  As  the  shipping  port  for  the  vast  quantities  of 
Sisal  hemp  raised  in  Yucatan,  this  place  is  of  great  importance ; 
and  as  it  has  a  reputation  for  health,  though  very  hot,  it  is  much 
resorted  to  in  summer  by  people  from  the  interior.  It  has  only 
one  wharf,  or  jetty,  which  is  provided  with  wooden  cranes,  and 
is  over  five  hundred  feet  long.  There  is  no  harbor  here,  and 
all  vessels  are  obliged  to  anchor  far  from  shore,  the  steamers  at 
a  distance  of  three  miles.  This  open  roadstead  is  exposed  to 
all  the  winds  that  blow,  and  in  the  season  of  "  northers  "  is  posi- 
tively unsafe.  The  old  port  of  Sisal,  some  distance  farther  down 
the  coast,  has  been  abandoned ;  and  as  it  has  no  railroad  into 
the  interior,  it  will  never  more  be  the  place  of  export  for  the 
hemp  that  bears  its  name,  and  which  constitutes  the  wealth  of 
the  country. 

A  railroad  connects  Progreso  with  Merida,  a  distance  of 
twenty-five  miles ;  and  though  all  the  iron,  equipments,  and 
rolling-stock  for  that  road  were  brought  from  England  and  the 
United  States  and  landed  at  the  port,  they  were  carted  to  the 
interior  terminus  and  the  road  commenced  at  that  end.  At 
first  sight,  this  will  seem  one  of  the  foolish  undertakings  of  that 
unprogressive  country ;  but  let  us  see.  The  contractor  wished 
to  secure  at  once  the  benefit  of  freights,  and,  as  all  the  hemp 
came  from  the  interior,  it  was  advisable,  apparently,  to  begin 
at  the  end  nearest  the  freight ;  hence  everything  was  hauled  to 
Merida,  and  the  road  begun  there.  As  soon  as  the  first  few 
miles  were  laid,  this  wary  contractor  commenced  to  haul  hemp 
over  his  rails  by  mule  power,  so  far  as  they  went.  Again,  he 
got  a  concession,  or  grant  of  money  from  the  government,  for 
every  mile  of  road  when  finished.  The  portion  nearest  Merida 
was  the  easiest  to  build,  and  all  the  laborers  were  there  also. 
Thus,  in  many  ways,  did  this  sagacious  man  make  his  enterprise 
pay  him  from  the  very  start,  until  to-day  it  is  considered  one 
of  the  most  profitable  railroads  in  the  world.  According  to  the 
terms  of  his  contract  with  the  government,  the  owner  of  the  rail- 
road was  compelled  to  carry  passengers  from  port  to  capital  for 
a  certain  reasonable  sum,  when  it  should  be  completed.  As  a 
consequence,  he  built  to  within  a  mile  or  two  of  the  coast,  and 


28  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

then  charged  at  a  very  unreasonable  rate  ;  now,  however,  it  is 
finished.  There  are  two  trains  daily  each  way,  besides  the 
freight  cars,  forenoon  and  afternoon. 

Back  of  the  dunes  of  the  coast  there  is  a  broad  lagoon,  hun- 
dreds of  miles  in  length,  varying  in  depth  and  breadth  with 
the  season.  Here  many  of  our  Northern  summer  birds  spend 
the  winter:  duck  and  teal,  snowy-plumaged  herons,  ibis  and 
egrets,  snipe  and  sandpipers,  curlews,  snake-birds,  and  cormo- 
rants. Beyond  the  lagoon,  the  bed  of  coral  rock,  composing  the 
entire  territory  of  Yucatan,  rises  above  the  level  of  the  water. 
The  vegetation  is  not  exuberant,  and  the  soil  is  thin  and  dry. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  lagoon,  the  road  passes  through  the 
henequen  plantations,  with  miles  and  miles  of  Sisal  hemp  on 
either  side  the  track,  the  immense  fields  neatly  walled,  to  pre- 
vent the  roaming  cattle  from  getting  in  and  eating  the  plant. 
The  dwellings  of  the  planters  are  surrounded  with  coco  palms, 
and  are  approached  by  long  lanes  terminating  in  arched  stone 
gateways.  Excepting  the  hemp  plantations,  there  is  little  to 
interest  one,  as  the  prevailing  vegetation  is  low  and  scrubby. 
But  the  people  alone  are  sufficiently  strange  to  Northern  eyes, 
for  they  are  wholly  peculiar  to  this  country;  they  are  Indians, 
descendants  of  the  original  inhabitants  found  here  by  Cortes 
and  Cordova.  VVe  meet  them  in  little  groups  that  grow  larger 
as  we  near  the  city  suburbs,  until  (this  being  Sunday,  and  con- 
sequently a  holiday)  they  pass  along  the  road  in  processions  of 
hundreds.  The  men  and  women  are  all  neatly  clad  in  garments 
of  white,  white  as  snow,  the  former  wearing  shirts  with  ruffled 
bosoms  and  plaited  backs,  the  women  their  traditional  dress  of 
three  centuries  ago,  —  a  skirt  from  the  waist  to  the  ankles,  and 
an  outside  nipil,  or  overskirt,  from  the  shoulders  to  the  knees. 
It  is  evident  that  the  engine  has  not  ceased  to  be  a  wonder 
with  them,  as  many  have  a  timorous  expression  on  their  faces, 
and  every  time  the  whistle  blows,  or  steam  escapes,  start  back 
in  affright.  It  seemed  that  intense  curiosity  only  had  overcome 
their  fear  of  this  monster.  These  great  crowds  of  Indians,  gath- 
ered here  to  inspect  the  steam  marvel  of  the  white  man,  recall 
to  mind  those  passages  in  the  narratives  of  the  explorers  of  this 


d 


A   GLIMPSE   OF   YUCATAN.  3 1 

country,  when  the  ancestors  of  these  same  people  collected  by 
thousands,  eventually  to  oppose  the  march  of  the  invaders,  but 
prompted  solely  at  first  by  no  stronger  motive  than  that  of 
curiosity. 

The  train,  drawn  by  an  American  engine  and  composed  mainly 
of  cars  manufactured  in  the  States,  passed  through  a  narrow, 
crowded  street,  and  rested  finally  at  the  station.  As  in  North- 
ern cities,  there  were  cabmen  here,  but  they  were  perfectly  in- 
different as  to  whether  one  hired  them  or  not.  We  finally 
captured  one,  succeeded  in  making  him  understand  that  we 
wished  to  engage  him,  and  were  driven  through  broad  streets, 
between  stone-walled  houses,  to  the  hotel. 

The  buildings  display  a  style  of  architecture  peculiar  to  the 
country,  combining  with  the  picturesqueness  of  Moorish  and 
Spanish  something  that  recalls  the  ruins  of  the  Indian  civiliza- 
tion upon  which  they  are  built.  The  larger  structures,  such  as 
the  hospital.  Governor's  palace,  and  city  hall,  have  balconies 
projecting  from  their  upper  windows,  while  many  of  them  are 
supported  upon  arches,  the  long  colonnades  of  which  have  an  im- 
posing appearance.  Most  prominent  among  the  peculiar  features 
are  the  grated  windows  of  all  the  houses.  There  is  no  glass  in 
use  here,  but  every  window  is  enclosed  by  a  grating  of  half-inch 
iron  bars,  which  projects  from  the  wall  about  a  foot.  Through 
these  prison-suggestive  windows,  as  we  rode  along  in  the  gloom 
of  early  evening,  I  could  see  most  attractive  groups  of  lovely 
faces.  Though  there  were  here  and  there  some  with  pale  com- 
plexion, many  that  we  saw  that  evening  seemed  of  Indian 
descent.  All  had  black  hair,  and  great  black,  lustrous  eyes, 
and  most  of  them  looked  quite  bewitching, —  as  they  should, 
for  they  were  seTwritas,  young  ladies  and  misses. 

The  Hotel  Mexico,  where  we  stopped,  faced  the  Plaza  Mayor, 
or  great  central  square,  about  which  are  arranged  the  principal 
buildings :  the  cathedral,  with  lofty  towers  and  walls  two  centu- 
ries old,  fronts  the  Casa  Municipal,  or  city  hall,  erected  sixty 
years  ago;  the  hotel  is  one  of  a  long  block  supported  upon 
effective  arches  of  masonry;  opposite  it,  on  the  south  side  of 
the  Plaza,  is  the  oldest  house  in  the  city,  built  in  1549.     A  great 


32  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

mound  once  covered  the  space  now  occupied  by  the  Plaza 
Mayor,  and  on  and  around  it,  in  1540,  a  terrible  battle  was 
fought,  —  forty  thousand  Indians  against  two  hundred  Span- 
iards, says  the  old  historian.  The  mound  was  razed,  and  from 
its  materials  and  the  many  pyramids  of  stone  erected  by  the 
Indians  in  ages  past,  the  city  of  Merida  was  built.  The  last  of 
these  mounds,  an  immense  artificial  elevation  containing  an 
aboriginal  arch,  has  just  been  dug  away  for  the  building-stone 
composing  it. 

There  are  fifteen  plazas  in  the  city,  and  each  one  has  facing 
it  a  church  ;  like  the  cathedral,  erected  in  1667,  on  the  great 
plaza,  of  ancient  date  and  most  attractive  and  quaint  architecture. 
Though  these  churches  are  now  impoverished,  and  some  of  them 
in  decay,  the  number  of  the  faithful  is  sufficient  to  maintain 
a  suggestion  of  former  grandeur.  Since  the  expulsion  of  the 
Jesuits,  some  twenty  years  ago,  religious  processions  have  been 
forbidden,  the  various  streets  and  plazas  have  changed  names, 
and  many  large  colleges  and  monasteries  have  changed  owners. 
One  of  the  pleasantest  of  the  squares  is  the  Parque  Hidalgo, 
formerly  known  as  the  Plaza  de  J^eszis.  The  largest  of  all  had 
a  fountain,  which  is  soon  to  be  replaced  by  a  fine  statue  of 
marble,  in  its  centre,  smooth  walks,  an  abundance  of  flowers, 
and  is  shaded  by  trees.  The  streets  of  the  city  cross  each  other 
at  right  angles ;  they  were  formerly  designated  by  figures  of 
birds  and  beasts,  as  the  bulk  of  the  Indian  population  could 
not  read.  On  each  corner  was  painted  the  figure  representing 
the  street,  or  an  image  was  perched  on  the  wall.  Few  of  these 
objects  remain,  but  one  may  yet  find  the  "  Street  of  the  Ele- 
phant," of  the  "  Flamingo,"  and  the  "  Street  of  the  Two  Faces." 
The  elephant  is  large  as  an  ox,  with  a  body  big  as  a  barrel, 
and  curved  trunk  and  tusks.  Nearly  all  the  streets  of  the 
city  terminate  in  ancient  gateways,  high  arching  above  the 
pavement,  with  niches  and  spaces  in  them,  containing  some 
saint,  the  Virgin,  or  a  cross. 

Though  under  the  federal  government  of  Mexico,  the  State  of 
Yucatan  has  its  separate  governor  and  legislature.  The  Governor 
is  generally  an  efficient  man,  and  interested  in  the  welfare  and 


'I-  J.  i^  /y;  ■^,. 


l;ij    L. 


A   GLIMPSE   OF   YUCATAN.  35 

development  of  the  country.  He  has  a  salary  of  $4,000,  with 
an  appropriation  of  $16,000  for  himself  and  staff,  in  which  this 
is  included.  The  Lieutenant-Governor  gets  $1,500,  the  Vice- 
Governor  and  Council,  $5,000,  total.     Other  salaries  are:  — 

Judicial  body  (twelve  members)    .......     ^16,500 

Clerks,  etc 13.500 

Remaining  officials,  about 35'000 

The  appropriations  for  the  year  1881  were:  — 

For  public  schools,  about $50,000 

Public  improvements,  railroads,  roads,  etc 43jOOO 

Police 14,000 

National  Guard 25,000 

Every  man,  from  twenty-one  years  to  fifty,  is  subject  to  mili- 
tary duty,  and  may  at  any  time  be  drafted.  He  then  gets  the 
extraordinary  pay  oi  six  cents  per  day,  and  finds  himself  in  food. 

The  total  budget  for  1881  was  about  $300,000,  of  which  the 
officials  absorbed  such  a  portion  as  seemed  to  them  best  for 
the  public  good  —  and  themselves.  It  is  a  noteworthy  fact,  that, 
out  of  the  various  sums  appropriated,  but  $300  was  set  aside 
for  the  Museum :  this  in  a  country  richer  in  archaeological  re- 
mains than  any  other  known  portion  of  America.  But  a  fact  still 
worthier  of  comment  is,  that  they  should  have  established  a 
museum  at  all.  The  Miiseo  Yiicatcco  is  not  large  nor  well  con- 
ducted, and  its  few  specimens  are  poorly  arranged;  but  it  con- 
tains many  a  prize  that  our  archaeologists  would  like  to  secure. 

There  are  several  newspapers  here,  the  Eco  and  the  Rcvista 
being  the  commercial  papers.  The  former  is  published  three 
times  a  week,  the  latter  daily,  and  both  are  very  well  edited. 
There  are  also  a  semi-weekly  official  organ,  and  two  religious 
papers,  one  Catholic  and  one  independent.  There  is  a  bank 
in  Merida,  and  drafts  can  also  be  obtained  on  New  York  and 
Europe  from  the  hemp  exporters,  who  are  the  heaviest  busi- 
ness men  of  the  city.  Premium  on  drafts  about  fifteen  per 
cent,  at  sixty  days'  sight.      The  rate  of  interest  here  is  from 


36  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

one  to  two  per  cent  a  month.  Travellers  coming  here  should 
bring  American  gold,  as  it  is  always  at  a  high  premium  and 
pays  no  duty. 

For  a  city  so  isolated,  and  in  a  climate  so  totally  antagonistic 
to  the  development  of  literary  talent,  Merida  contains  many  writ- 
ers of  more  than  local  distinction.  Her  list  embraces  authors 
of  valuable  historical  works,  writers  of  fiction,  poetry,  and  the 
drama.  One  work,  a  Dictionary  of  the  Maya,  the  aboriginal 
language  of  the  peninsula,  is  especially  valuable ;  and  a  recent 
drama  written  here  has  been  produced  in  Havana  and  Madrid. 
It  may  seem  strange  that  men  of  education  and  reputation 
should  prefer  to  live  in  this  remote  section  of  the  world ;  but 
there  seems  to  be  a  charm  about  this  old  city  that  draws  them 
to  it.  There  are  here  men  of  great  wealth,  men  who  have 
crossed  and  recrossed  the  Atlantic,  were  educated  in  London 
and  Paris,  and  have  passed  years  on  the  Continent,  who  yet  love 
the  city  beyond  anything  else  in  the  world. 

Though  lying  just  midway  between  Havana  and  Vera  Cruz  in 
point  of  longitude,  —  cities  smitten  with  yellow-fever  every  sum- 
mer, —  Merida  rarely  suffers  from  this  scourge.  But  few  cases 
annually  occur,  it  not  often  becomes  epidemic,  and  it  is  said 
that  at  no  time  has  the  vomito  existed  in  Merida  and  in  its  sea- 
port, Progreso,  at  the  same  time.  The  city  is  generally  in  a 
very  healthy  condition,  though  its  only  supply  of  water  is  de- 
rived from  the  clouds  and  from  subterranean  caverns. 

The  climate  is  hot  as  the  hottest,  but  the  furnace  heat  of  mid- 
day is  tempered  by  cool  breezes ;  night  and  day  the  wind  is 
blowing,  rendering  life  more  than  endurable  here.  The  tem- 
perature ranges  from  about  seventy-five  to  ninety-eight  degrees, 
in  the  shade.  Though  one  would  suppose  the  hottest  months 
would  be  August  and  September,  yet  it  is  said  that  March  and 
April  have  that  distinction,  when,  added  to  the  heat  generated 
by  the  sun,  is  that  from  burning  corn-fields,  which  are  fired  all 
over  the  country. 

The  houses  are  freer  from  vermin  than  is  usual  in  tropical 
countries,  owing  perhaps  to  their  manner  of  construction.  There 
are  two  thick  walls  with  a  filling  of  stone,  sometimes  from  four 


A   GLIMPSE   OF   YUCATAN. 


37 


to  six  feet  deep.  The  rooms  are  lofty  and  spacious,  though  gen- 
erally barren  of  ornament,  and  washed  or  painted  white.  The 
great  beams  supporting  the  stone  roof  are  visible  overhead, 
and  are  painted  a  different  color.  The  floors  are  cemented,  the 
courts  tiled,  and  there  is  no  woodwork  except  in  the  doors  and 
windows.  Rooms  of  this  vault-like  character  are  gloomy  and  de- 
pressing to  a  stranger,  but  they  at  least  offer  no  harbor  of  refuge 


ANCIENT   HOUSE. 


for  spiders,  centipedes,  or  scorpions,  and  one  may  retire  to  his 
hammock  with  a  sense  of  security  not  always  felt  within  the 
tropics.  The  furniture  of  these  houses  is  simple  and  plain,  and, 
except  in  those  of  the  very  rich,  there  is  little  beyond  what 
necessity  requires.  No  earthquakes  or  hurricanes  disturb  the 
equanimity  of  the  Yucatecos,  their  heaviest  blows  seldom  ex- 
ceeding the  limits  of  temporales,  or  strong  winds.     Many  of  the 


38  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

houses  here  were  built  two  hundred  years  ago,  and  their  beams 
and  rafters  are  as  hard  as  iron.  The  most  ancient  of  these  old 
buildings  is  one  erected  in  the  year  1549,  by  the  Adelantado, 
Don  Francisco  Montejo,  the  conqueror  of  Yucatan.  Its  fagade 
is  a  grotesque  combination  of  Moorish-Indian  architecture,  rep- 
resenting knights  in  armor  trampling  upon  prostrate  Indians. 

The  lamented  archaeologist,  J.  L.  Stephens,  whose  writings  on 
the  ruins  of  Central  America  and  Yucatan  have  secured  him  per- 
manent fame,  resided  here  forty  years  ago,  in  company  with  his 
artist,  Mr.  Catherwood,  and  Dr.  Cabot,  of  Boston.  The  house 
he  then  occupied,  and  rented  at  four  dollars  a  month,  is  now 
leased  for  sixty  dollars.  A  corresponding  rise  in  real  estate 
has  been  steady,  and  now  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  find  a 
house  to  let  or  for  sale.  Business  is  active,  prices  ranging 
about  the  same  as  in  Havana.  To  summarize  a  comprehensive 
glance  over  the  State,  the  following  figures  are  appended : 
Capital  and  largest  city,  Merida;   port  of  entry,  Progreso ; 

Number  of  other  cities 7 

Towns 13 

Villages 143 

Abandoned  settlements 15 

Haciendas 333 

Ruined  cities 62 

Many  of  the  "  cities  "  are  beginning  to  decay ;  many  of  the 
"  towns  "  are  composed  entirely  of  thatched  huts,  and  many  of 
the  haciendas  comprise  enormous  estates,  with  mile  on  mile 
of  territory;  so  that  Yucatan,  though  dotted  with  indications  of 
civilization  on  the  map,  is  yet  mainly  a  wilderness,  with  perhaps 
less  territory  developed  than  when  Cordova  landed  here,  or 
when  Montejo  conquered  its  aboriginal  inhabitants. 


II. 

YUCATECOS. 

ABIT  of  history  might  be  quoted  here,  to  the  better  under- 
standing of  the  country,  the  people,  and  their  institutions ; 
and  without  further  parley  we  will  turn  to  the  description  given 
by  Ferdinand  Columbus  of  the  first  Indians  from  Yucatan  that 
the  eye  of  Spaniard  ever  looked  on.  It  was  on  the  fourth 
and  last  voyage  of  the  Great  Admiral,  in  1502,  when,  driven  by 
currents  out  of  his  southerly  course  from  San  Domingo,  he 
sighted  a  group  of  islands  off  Honduras,  and  captured  a  canoe, 
formed  of  the  trunk  of  a  single  tree,  eight  feet  wide  and  as  long 
as  a  galley.  "  In  the  middle  was  an  awning  of  palm  leaves,  not 
unlike  those  of  the  Venetian  gondolas,  under  which  were  the 
women,  children,  and  all  the  goods.  The  canoe  was  under  the 
direction  of  twenty-five  Indians.  They  had  cotton  coverlets  and 
tunics  without  sleeves,  curiously  worked  and  dyed  of  various 
colors  [exactly  the  same  as  are  worn  in  Yucatan  at  the  present 
day],  covering  for  the  loins  of  similar  material,  large  mantles,  in 
which  the  Indian  women  wrapped  themselves,  like  the  Moorish 
women  of  Grenada ;  long  swords  with  channels  on  each  side 
the  blade,  edged  with  sharp  flints  that  cut  the  body  as  well  as 
steel ;  hatchets  of  copper  for  cutting  wood,  bells  of  the  same 
material,  and  crucibles  in  which  to  melt  it.  For  provisions  they 
had  such  roots  and  grains  as  the  natives  of  Hispaniola  (Haiti) 
eat,  a  sort  of  wine  made  of  maize  and  great  quantities  of  almonds 
{cacaoY  of  the  kind  used  by  the  people  of  New  Spain  for  money. 
The  Spaniards  were  also  struck  with  the  personal  modesty  of 
these  Indians,  in  which  they  greatly  excelled  the  natives  of  the 
islands." 

^  The  seeds  of  the  Cacao —  Theobroma  cacao  —  are  still  used  as  small  change  in 
barter  amongst  the  poorer  classes  of  Southern  Mexico. 


40  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

Columbus  sailed  to  the  south ;  how  much  better  would  it 
have  been  for  him  had  he  sailed  west !  "  Within  a  day  or  two," 
says  Irving,  "  he  would  have  arrived  at  Yucatan;  the  discovery 
of  Mexico  and  the  other  opulent  countries  of  New  Spain  would 
have  necessarily  followed ;  the  Southern  Ocean  would  have 
been  disclosed  to  him,  and  a  succession  of  splendid  discoveries 
would  have  shed  fresh  glory  on  his  declining  age,  instead  of  its 
sinking  amidst  gloom,  neglect,  and  disappointment." 

Four  years  later,  in  1506,  Juan  Diaz  de  Solis,  afterwards  dis- 
coverer of  the  Rio  de  la  Plata,  and  Vicente  Yanez  Pinzon,  who 
commanded  a  ship  in  the  first  voyage  of  Columbus,  and  was  so 
unfairly  treated  by  him,  entered  the  Gulf  of  Honduras  and  saw 
the  east  coast  of  Yucatan.  They  departed,  however,  without 
any  attempt  at  exploration,  lured  by  vague  reports  of  gold  in 
the  south,  and  to  Cordova  and  his  companions  must  be  awarded 
the  glory  of  bringing  Yucatan  to  the  notice  of  the  world,  and 
of  opening  the  way  for  its  acquisition  by  the  Spaniards. 

This  venture  of  Hernandez  de  Cordova,  in  15 17,  though  it 
yielded  him  and  his  comrades  scarcely  any  reward  save  the 
consciousness  of  having  found  a  new  country,  (all  of  his  com- 
pany being  wounded  and  many  of  them  killed  in  encounters 
with  the  natives,)  yet  first  made  known  the  existence  of  a  land 
whose  inhabitants  were  decently  clothed,  and  built  houses  of 
stone  and  lime. 

Following  in  the  wake  of  that  stout  old  soldier  and  chronicler, 
Bernal  Diaz,  who  was  with  Cordova,  we  shall  need  no  other 
guide  through  the  historic  portion  of  Mexico,  for  he  attended 
its  christening  and  was  in  at  the  death.^  Undaunted  by  his 
wounds  of  the  previous  year,  he  sailed  with  Juan  de  Grijalva, 
in  1 5 18,  in  which  memorable  voyage  he  coasted  the  entire 
northern  and  western  shores  of  Yucatan,  and  reached  under  this 

1  "Bernal  Diaz  del  Castillo  is  the  best  that  ever  writ  of  the  Conquest  of  Mexico, 
as  having  been  an  Eye  Witness  to  all  the  principal  Actions  there ;  and  has  an  air 
of  Sincerity ;  writing  in  a  plain  Style,  and  sparing  none  where  he  could  see  any 
Fault. 

"  Cortes'  Letters  cannot  be  contradicted,  he  having  been  the  chief  Agent  in  the 
Conquest  of  Mexico,  but  he  being  more  taken  up  with  Acting  than  Writing,  could 
not  give  them  all  their  Perfection."  —  Herrera,  Stevens's  translation,  1740. 


YUCATECOS.  41 

commander  the  site  of  the  present  city  of  Vera  Cruz.  In  15 19 
this  intrepid  soul  again  set  sail  for  Yucatan,  in  the  service  of 
Hernando  Cortes,  whom  he  followed  through  all  his  wanderings  ; 
and  in  this  manner  unconsciously  collected  the  material  for  the 
best  and  most  truthful  history  of  the  conquest  of  Mexico  that 
has  been  given  to  the  world. 

The  richer  country  of  Mexico  attracted  all  the  captains  and 
soldiers  thither,  and  Yucatan  remained  comparatively  unnoticed 
for  a  decade  of  years  after  its  discovery.  In  the  year  1527  the 
gallant  Don  Francisco  de  Montejo  obtained  a  grant  from  the 
king  of  Spain  for  its  conquest  and  colonization.  Landing  first 
at  the  island  of  Cozumel,  off  the  east  coast  of  Yucatan,  he 
attempted  to  march  into  the  interior  from  the  shore  of  the 
peninsula  opposite,  but  everywhere  met  with  determined  oppo- 
sition from  the  Indians.  It  was  not  until  the  year  1537  that, 
Don  Francisco  having  been  driven  from  the  territory,  his  son 
again  effected  a  landing  near  Campeche.  From  that  date  to 
the  great  battle  at  T'ho  (Merida),  in  1540,  the  Spaniards  were 
constantly  fighting ;  but  they  finally  triumphed  —  only  to  find 
that  this  country,  which  they  had  so  desperately  battled  for 
and  which  its  native  inhabitants  had  so  bravely  defended,  con- 
tained not  a  single  mine  of  gold  or  silver,  nor  anything  to 
reward  them  for  their  conquest. 

Since  this  period,  the  history  of  Yucatan  has  been  mainly 
uneventful  to  the  world  at  large.  The  people,  the  first  shedders 
of  European  blood  in  New  Spain,  and  apparently  ferocious  and 
sanguinary,  readily  yielded  to  the  Spaniards,  quickly  embraced 
the  religion  of  the  usurpers,  and  settled  down  to  the  cultivation 
of  the  arts  of  peace.  In  the  year  1761  occurred  a  great  uprising 
of  the  raza  mdigena,  or  aborigines;  and  again  in  1847  a  numer- 
ous body  revolted  and  fled  to  the  southeastern  portion  of  the 
peninsula,  which  they  still  occupy.  For  thirty  years  and  more 
there  have  been  Indians  with  their  war-paint  on,  rebels  against 
the  authority  of  the  government.  Though  living  in  the  eastern 
portion  of  the  country,  they  now  and  then  make  raids  in  the 
direction  of  Merida,  causing  great  excitement;  they  have  de- 
populated  a   large  extent  of  country,  and   caused  towns   and 


42  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

even  cities  to  be  abandoned.  A  notable  example  is  the  city 
of  Valladolid,  once  a  large  and  flourishing  centre  of  trade,  noted 
for  its  manufactures  of  cotton,  but  now  nearly  abandoned  and 
in  ruins. 

In  numbers,  these  Indians  are  not  strong,  the  largest  estimates 
being  no  higher  than  seven  thousand ;  in  fact,  there  are  not 
probably  more  than  two  thousand.  They  are,  however,  fierce 
and  revengeful,  —  a  different  people,  seemingly,  from  the  tim- 
orous Indians  of  Merida,  whose  ancestors  probably  built  the 
magnificent  temples  that  now  lie  in  ruins  throughout  Yucatan. 
They  are  more  like  the  Caribs,  the  people  that  once  possessed 
the  southern  West  Indies,  the  Spanish  Main,  and  the  Mesquita 
Coast.  Though  few  in  number,  they  have  succeeded  in  com- 
pletely terrorizing  the  entire  country,  and  are  as  difficult  to  find 
as  were  the  Seminoles  of  Florida  forty  years  ago.  The  wildest 
stories  circulate  about  them,  and  the  people  of  the  city  tremble 
at  their  very  name.  If  a  stranger  penetrate  to  their  country, 
they  seize  him  at  once  and  hack  him  in  pieces  with  their  machetes 
without  listening  to  a  word  of  explanation  ;  or  they  reserve  him 
for  torture,  tying  him  by  a  long  line  to  a  stake  by  a  ring  through 
the  nose. 

Though  so  atrociously  cruel,  yet  who  can  blame  them,  when 
he  remembers  the  torments  inflicted  upon  the  ancestors  of  these 
people  by  the  early  Spaniards?  To  them,  every  man  with  a 
pale  face  is  a  Spaniard,  whose  abhorred  presence  is  to  be  rid 
of  by  death.  They  hold  guarded  intercourse  with  the  English 
in  Belize,  but  allow  no  white  man  to  penetrate  to  their  city. 
This  city,  whose  inhabitants  must  yet  retain  much  of  their  abo' 
riginal  simplicity,  much  of  ancient  cunning  in  the  arts  of  their 
progenitors,  —  what  traveller  would  not  like  to  visit  and  de- 
scribe it  ? 

Annually,  their  territory  is  increasing  in  extent,  and  that  of 
the  whites  and  agricultural  Indians  becoming  restricted ;  rancho 
and  hacienda,  farm  and  plantation,  village  and  town,  —  one  by 
one  they  are  destroyed,  and  the  land  they  covered  added  to  that 
of  the  dreaded  siiblevados,  or  insurgents.  It  was  rumored  in  1881 
that  all  the  Indians  of  Yucatan,  Central  America,  and  Honduras 


YUCATECOS.  43 

were  to  unite  in  one  general  uprising,  and  it  was  well  known  that 
the  Indians  of  Chan  Santa  Cruz  had  sent  invitations  for  a  grand 
council  of  all  the  tribes ;  but  the  latest  advices  report  that  they 
have  buried  the  hatchet.  Every  year  they  send  a  threatening 
message  to  the  capital,  promising  to  make  its  streets  run  with 
blood,  and  to  massacre  the  last  inhabitant ;  and  every  year  the 
people  quake  and  turn  pale,  but  do  nothing  to  prevent  their  ad- 
vance. That  advance,  if  it  is  ever  made,  will  be  along  the  ridge 
of  the  hills  that  lie  south  of  Merida,  commencing  at  Uxmal  and 
running  into  the  interior,  towards  the  capital  of  these  insurgents, 
Chan  Santa  Cruz.  Yucatan  is  incompletely  garrisoned  by  a  few 
Mexican  and  Federal  troops,  who  once  in  a  while  march  out  into 
the  country  in  search  of  the  Indians,  who  retire  to  their  fast- 
nesses ;  and  the  troops  then  triumphantly  return,  with  a  great 
flourish  of  trumpets  —  but  without  any  Indians. 

From  fifty  to  fifty-five  thousand  people  reside  in  this  city 
of  Merida,  the  greater  portion  of  whom  are  Indians,  or  people 
directly  descended  from  them,  who  show  in  their  swarthy  skins 
their  native  blood.  From  a  union  of  the  two  races,  Spanish  and 
Indian,  result  the  Mestizos,  —  feminine,  Mestizas,  —  or  mixed 
people,  who  are  the  handsomest  in  all  Mexico.  They  are  a 
gentle,  docile  race,  loving  pleasure,  not  always  avoiding  labor, 
cleanly  in  habit,  and  perfectly  honest.  Though  three  centuries 
have  passed  away  since  this  territory  was  subjugated,  the  In- 
dians and  Mestizos  yet  retain  many  of  their  ancient  customs  and 
dances,  and  especially  the  style  of  dress  of  the  period  antece- 
dent to  the  conquest. 

As  a  servant,  the  Indian  is  slothful,  but  humble,  never  impu- 
dent, always  reliable ;  and  a  dirty  one  is  indeed  a  phenomenon. 
In  hiring  laborers,  whether  to  work  on  a  plantation  or  as  house 
servants,  you  must  always  advance  them  money,  retaining  a 
percentage  from  their  wages  as  they  come  due,  to  reimburse 
you.  No  matter  how  long  a  servant  may  stay,  with  you,  he 
or  she  will  surely  leave  in  your  debt;  even  the  washerwoman  is 
no  exception.  When  they  desire  to  go,  they  do  so,  previously 
informing  you  of  their  intention.  This  is  generally  when  they 
have  got  a  little  money  ahead ;   and  they  lie  idle  so  long  as  it 


44 


TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 


lasts.  The  person  next  employing  them  is  supposed  to  assume 
the  debts  of  the  Indian.  Imprisonment  for  debt  has  been  abol- 
ished ;  you  cannot  force  a  laborer  to  work  out  a  debt,  and  at 
death  all  obligation  of  estate  or  family  ceases.  Wages  are  not 
high ;  a  good  cook  gets  but  two  dollars  per  month,  and  her 
assistants  even  less.     A  day-laborer  gets  two  rcales  (twenty-five 

cents)  a  day,  a  good  mason 
^  from  sixty-two  cents  to  one 
dollar  and  a  half,  and  his  at- 
tendants fifty  cents ;  carpen- 
ters and  blacksmiths,  about 
the  same. 

The  economy  of  the  cui- 
sine is  something  wonderful 
in  its  simplicity,  even  in  the 
houses  of  the  rich.  Starting 
upon  first  principles,  the  In- 
dian and  Mestiza  women  who 
rule  the  kitchen  prepare  the 
farinaceous  food  in  the  same 
manner  as  they  did  a  thou- 
sand years  ago.  For  hun- 
dreds of  years,  the  Indian 
women  of  the  South  have 
ground  the  corn  for  their 
daily  bread,  as  at  the  pres- 
ent day,  between  two  stones. 
They  know  no  other  way. 
One  of  them,  being  told  that 
the  women  of  the  North  had 
no  such  employment,  exclaimed,  in  surprise,  "  Why,  what  do  they 
find  to  do  with  themselves?"  Night  and  day,  these  poor 
women  labor  at  the  mill.  The  smooth  stone  at  which  they 
work  is  called  a  metdte,  from  the  Aztec  metatl,  and  has  long 
been  in  common  use  among  the  Indians  all  over  our  continent, 
specimens  having  been  found  in  New  Jersey,  in  Mexico,  Yuca- 
tan, and  the  West  Indies.      Upon  this   metate  the  corn,  pre- 


TORTILLA-SELLER. 


YUCATECOS.  45 

viously  softened  in  alkaline  water,  is  ground  to  a  fine  paste, 
then  patted  into  thin  cakes  and  baked  over  a  quick  fire  on  a 
thin  iron  plate  or  flat  stone.  The  accompanying  engraving 
represents  one  of  the  tortilla-makers ;  the  girl  herself  is  a  fair 
type  of  the  Mestiza  of  the  serving  class  of  Yucatan. 

These  cakes  of  Indian  corn,  called  tortillas^  constitute,  with 
frijoles  (pronounced  free-ho^-lcs),  the  chief  food  of  the  poorer 
classes  of  all  Mexico.  Frijoles,  it  may  be  well  to  explain,  are 
beajis,  —  nothing  more,  nothing  less  ;  and  these  good  people  eat 
them  twice  every  day,  fourteen  times  a  week,  and  seven  or  eight 
hundred  times  a  year.  They  are  always  accompanied  with  chile, 
a  kind  of  red  pepper  that  delights  the  Mexican  stomach,  but 
which  is  so  very  hot  that  few  strangers  dare  approach  within  a 
foot  of  it. 

It  was  to  the  credit  of  the  United  States,  and  my  good  for- 
tune, that  we  had  as  Consul  in  Yucatan,  at  the  time  of  my  arrival, 
a  gentleman  every  way  fitted  for  the  position.  Consul  Ayme, 
though  of  French  extraction,  was  a  true  American.  He  had 
twice  circled  the  globe,  was  with  our  transit  of  Venus  expe- 
dition as  mineralogist,  in  1874,  and  possessed  rare  accomplish- 
ments as  an  educated  gentleman  and  devotee  of  science.  Stran- 
gers at  that  time  were  rare  in  Merida,  and  the  good  Consul 
sought  me  out  at  the  Hotel  Mexico,  and,  with  Spanish  polite- 
ness and  more  than  Spanish  sincerity,  offered  me  his  house  dur- 
ing the  period  of  my  stay.  To  him  I  am  indebted  for  forty 
happy  days  in  Yucatan,  and  for  the  best  disposition  of  the  time 
at  my  command.  The  building  occupied  by  him  as  the  consu- 
late was  on  the  south  side  of  the  Plaza,  near  the  antique  structure 
previously  mentioned  as  having  been  erected  by  the  first  Ade- 
lantado  of  Yucatan.  From  it  the  various  excursions  projected 
for  my  benefit  by  my  hospitable  friend  were  carried  out,  em- 
bracing not  only  the  interesting  portions  of  the  city,  but  remote 
points  in  the  country,  noted  for  their  ruins  or  as  being  the  resorts 
of  rare  birds. 

An  interesting  place  to  visit,  always,  was  the  market,  held  in  a 
large  court  enclosed  on  every  side  by  high  buildings.  The  en- 
trance was  nearly  always  obstructed  by  women  with  fruit  to  sell. 


46  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

whose  presence  was  tolerable  from  the  fact  that  they  sold  it 
extremely  cheap.  For  a  medio  (six  cents)  one  could  buy  a 
dozen  oranges,  a  bunch  of  bananas,  or  a  large  lot  of  mangoes. 
The  court  was  filled  with  little  shelters  made  by  planting  a  pole 
in  the  ground,  and  making  a  framework  on  it  like  the  ribs  of 
an  umbrella,  and  covering  it  with  matting.  Beneath  each  one 
sat  a  woman  or  girl,  with  her  articles  for  sale  spread  about  and 
before  her,  —  a  little  fruit,  cabbage,  lettuce,  or  cooked  meat. 
Upon  a  square  of  cloth,  spread  on  the  pavement,  would  be  half 
a  dozen  eggs,  right  out  where  everybody  was  passing,  or  a  few 
peppers,  a  bunch  of  flowers,  or  a  pint  of  beans.  Some  of  these 
market-women  wore  elegantly  embroidered  uipils ;  some  were 
pretty,  all  were  modest,  and  all  were  peaceable.  During  the 
time  I  was  in  that  country  I  did  not  see  one  quarrelsome  or  dis- 
orderly person,  hardly  heard  a  baby  cry,  or  any  one  raise  his 
voice  to  another  above  a  tone  of  polite  conversation ;  the  place 
was  crowded,  but  there  was  no  jostling  or  confusion. 

In  a  circular  space  in  the  Calle  de  Hidalgo  is  a  market  de- 
voted entirely  to  the  sale  of  hats  and  hammocks,  the  handiwork 
of  Indians,  who  squat  there  all  day  in  the  blazing  sun.  Near  this 
place  is  the  corn-market,  a  long  line  of  arcades  beneath  which 
the  merchants  sit  with  corn  and  beans  emptied  in  heaps  on  the 
pavement.  There  are  sold  here,  also,  pottery  and  fancy  wares. 
Under  the  castle  walls,  the  mule  teams  that  have  come  in  the 
night  before  from  the  interior  are  grouped,  resting,  or  waiting  for 
return  loads.  Above  all,  the  ruined  cupolas  of  the  monastery 
peer  over  the  castle  walls  that  surround  it,  and  the  cries  and 
the  drumming  of  the  guard  occasionally  ring  out  from  within. 
This  monastery  was  built  on  the  ruins  of  an  artificial  mound, 
was  of  vast  proportions,  and  covered  that  mysterious  arch  men- 
tioned by  Stephens,  which  has  so  long  been  a  puzzle  and  a 
stumbling-block  to  archaeologists. 

The  air  of  morning  is  so  sweet,  so  cool,  that  a  walk  into  the 
suburbs  is  almost  imperative.  The  first  noises  are  just  preced- 
ing daybreak,  when  the  soldiers  change  guard  at  the  "  palace  " ; 
then  the  bells  of  the  cathedral  strike  up,  and  shortly  after  appear 
dawn  and  sunrise.      Passing   through    one  of  the  quaint   and 


YUCATECOS. 


49 


ancient  gates,  you  enter  at  once  pleasant  and  winding  lanes, 
grass-grown  and  with  protruding  limestone  rocks,  with  trees 
thick  on  either  side,  and  half-wild  gardens ;  but  in  all  this  tropic 
shrubbery  there  are  few  birds  save  the  mocking-bird,  blackbird, 
and  cardinal. 

The  few  people  you  meet  are  unobtrusive,  and  you  may  wan- 
der on  for  hours  among  the  peculiar  oblong  huts,  —  deeply 
thatched  with  grass,  so  picturesque  and  so  vermin-suggestive,  — 
with  women  in  neglige  garbs  cooking  in  the  yards,  and  children 
contentedly  playing  about  them,  without  hearing  a  harsh  or  dis- 
cordant voice.  Here  indeed  the  softness  of  the  climate  makes 
itself  felt.  Returning  at  perhaps  nine  or  ten  o'clock,  you  will 
exTicrience  great  discomfort  from  the  glare  of  the  sun  on  the 
yellow,  uuot-covered  streets.  A  wise  ordinance  of  the  city  pro- 
hibits the  painting  of  a  house  white,  for  this  very  reason,  glare. 
If  such  a  law  were  in  force  in  other  cities  within  the  region  of 
heat,  as  in  Bermuda  or  Barbados,  for  instance,  how  beneficial  it 
would  prove  to  the  people !  In  those  islands  everything  is 
white,  except  the  plants,  —  houses,  streets,  and  sand-hills;  and, 
as  if  the  white  stone  they  build  of  were  not  glaring  enough, 
they  whitewash  the  roofs,  and  wear  blue  spectacles  to  mitigate 
the  intensity  of  the  reflected  rays  of  the  sun. 

Rarely  does  a  visitor  to  Merida,  or  indeed  to  any  portion  of 
Mexico,  obtain  an  inside  view  of  life  there ;  but,  fortunately  for 
me,  while  there,  society  was  turned  inside  out  by  the  occurrence 
of  the  carnival.  It  was  near  the  middle  of  that  memorable  six- 
teenth century  that  witnessed  the  conquests  of  Cuba,  of  Mexico, 
and  of  Peru,  that  the  Spanish  invaders  founded,  upon  the  ruins 
of  the  Indian  city  of  T'ho,  this  now  ancient  metropolis,  the  capi- 
tal city  of  Yucatan.  Probably  no  one  of  the  old  cities  of  Mexico 
has  so  faithfully  preserved  its  old-time  characteristics  as  this. 
Though  Roman  Catholic  in  their  faith,  many  of  its  citizens  yet 
cling  to  their  ancient  religious  rites,  practising  them,  however, 
only  in  secret.  But  there  have  been  also  deeply  engrafted  upon 
the  minds  of  the  people  many  customs  of  times  more  modern 
than  that  of  the  conquest.  A  city  of  fifty  thousand  inhabit- 
ants cannot  exist  in  a  Catholic  country — even  one  in  which 

4 


50  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

the  power  of  the  Church  has  been  so  curtailed  as  in  Mexico  — 
without  observing  the  feast-days  and  the  carnival.  This  lat- 
ter celebration,  thanks  to  the  readily  accepted  invitation  of 
the  United  States  Consul,  I  had  an  excellent  opportunity  for 
witnessing. 

P'our  days  w-ere  devoted  to  the  carnival,  and  five  nights  to 
the  balls  which  form  a  part  of  it.  Sunday,  the  27th  of  Feb- 
ruary, was  properly  the  day  of  opening,  though  the  ball  of 
Saturday  night  was  a  brilliant  affair.  The  first  indications  of  the 
carnival  on  Sunday  morning  were  from  a  band  of  Indians,  who 
personated  the  wild  men  of  the  country  in  songs  and  dances, 
and  exhibited  for  the  amusement  of  themselves  and  spectators 
the  costumes  of  their  ancestors.  These  were  of  the  lower  classes, 
who  had  not  attended  the  ball  of  the  previous  night.  Soon  the 
streets  were  alive  with  people,  after  the  morning  mass,  and  the 
fun  commenced.  Though  fun-loving  and  innocent  in  their 
amusements,  these  people  have  not  the  fertility  of  invention 
necessary  to  secure  artistic  effect,  or  to  more  than  broadly 
burlesque  the  customs  of  their  own  country.  Their  best  groups 
were  the  Indians,  who  excelled  in  dancing,  and  the  esticdiantes, 
or  bands  of  Spanish  students,  who  went  about  in  costume,  sing- 
ing songs  of  their  own  composition. 

Let  one  day  in  my  description  suffice  as  a  specimen  of  all  the 
rest,  and  let  that  day  be  Sunday  because  everybody  was  fresh, 
excited,  and  animated.  After  the  Indians  had  passed,  and  a 
great  crowd  of  the  ordinary  "  tag-rag  and  bobtail  "  of  such 
processions,  came  the  cstitdiaiites,  a  picturesque  band,  happy, 
careless,  tuneful.  Down  the  street  they  came,  around  the  corner 
of  the  Plaza,  in  sight  of  the  great  cathedral,  and  halted  opposite 
the  consulate.  At  a  signal  from  their  leader,  they  burst  forth 
into  wild,  sweet  melody,  from  guitars  thrummed  by  practised 
hands,  flutes,  violins,  and  violoncellos.  They  handed  us  some 
printed  songs,  and  we  saw  that  they  were  the  work  of  some  of 
Merida's  sons,  —  for  they  have  poets  here  of  no  mean  rank. 
Their  music  was  lively  and  pleasing,  and  they  were  so  well  drilled 
as  to  render  all  their  pieces  most  effectively ;  the  impression  left 
as  they  passed  on  was  as  though  one  had  listened  to  an  opera, 


YUCATECOS. 


51 


without  the  fatigue  of  going  to  hear  it.  There  were  two  bands 
of  students,  one  wearing  dark  cloaks  and  sombreros,  and  the 
other  the  Mexican  colors,  flags  draped  as  cloaks,  and  hats  with 
cockades.  They  were  true  students,  and  patterned  after  those 
famous  ones  of  Salamanca,  wearing  in  their  hats  the  traditional 
spoon,  knife  and  fork,  or  corkscrew,  and  with  the  devil-may- 
care  air  of  contented  and  light-hearted  youth. 

They  pass  on,  and  the  road  is  for  a  moment  empty ;  another 
shout  from  the  gamins,  a  hubbub  of  drum  and  cornet,  and  an- 
other body  of  curiously  attired  men  comes  along.  These  are 
the  military,  a  burlesque  on  the  Indian  soldiers  that  assume  to 
defend  this  peaceful  country.  They  are  dressed  in  uniform,  — 
Mexican  uniform:  white  pants  and  shirt,  the  latter  outside  and 
overshadowing  the  former,  —  and  some  of  them  drag  along  a 
wooden  cannon. 

Another  crowd  rushes  around  the  corner,  bearing  a  different 
flag.  These  are  Cubans,  and  a  fight  is  at  once  in  progress,  a 
sham  fight,  in  which  no  blood  is  shed,  but  many  prisoners  are 
taken.  The  Cubans  are  routed,  of  course,  and  pursued  down  the 
street  with  great  pretended  slaughter.  The  Yucatecos  return 
with  several  prisoners,  and  at  once  institute  a  mock  trial,  the 
prisoners,  three  in  number,  being  chained  with  strings  of  spools 
to  the  cannon.  The  captain  asks  the  corporal  of  the  guard 
where  he  found  these  men,  and  is  told  that  he  found  them  in  the 
country;  that  they  had  no  arms,  so  his  men  surrounded  and 
took  them  prisoners. 

"  Did  you  not  find  any  other  prisoners?  " 

"  Si,  Seflor  Capitaii,  a  jug  oi  aguardiente !* 

"  And  where  is  it  ?  " 

"  The  prisoners  drank  it." 

"  Then  take  them  out  to  be  shot." 

A  detachment  marched  off  with  the  prisoners,  and  the  ragged 
brigade  went  off  in  search  of  more  glory.  In  the  afternoon,  at 
five,  was  the  great  paseo,  when  everybody  who  could  hire  a 
carriage  joined  in  the  procession  that  drove  through  the  prin- 
cipal streets.  Not  all  the  carriages  were  elegant,  being,  most  of 
them,  of  the  country;  but  on  this  account  they  were  all  the  more 


52 


TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 


interesting,  especially  the  calesas,  —  two-wheeled  vehicles,  built 
somewhat  after  the  pattern  of  the  Cuban  volante.  These  calezas, 
each  drawn  by  a  single  horse  or  mule,  on  whose  back  was  perched 
the  driver,  contained  some  of  the  prettiest  girls  in  Merida,  dark- 
skinned  as  a  rule,  but  with  beautiful  black  hair  and  eyes,  and 
milk-white  teeth. 


THE   CHURCH    OF   SANTIAGO. 

The  group  at  the  consulate  could  not  resist  joining  in  the  pro- 
cession, and  a  caleza  was  obtained  at  once.  The  prescribed 
route,  from  which  no  one  ever  varied,  was  around  the  Plaza  and 
through  the  two  principal  streets.  At  the  corner  of  one  is  the 
famous  nunnery,  built  many  years  ago,  now  partially  in  ruins,  since 
the  banishment  of  the  fair  inmates.    It  is  said  that  there  exists  a 


YUCATECOS.  53 

secret  tunnel  leading  under  the  city  from  the  monastery  (now 
likewise  in  ruins)  to  this  abode  of  peace  and  purity.  The  start- 
ing-place for  the  grand  paseo  is  at  the  square  of  Santiago,  where 
is  a  most  holy  church,  in  front  of  which  is  a  great  ceiba  tree,  the 
centre  of  the  bull-ring.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  city,  its 
fagade  is  adorned  with  numerous  statues,  and  its  cupola  with 
many  bells.  In  the  opinion  of  the  early  builders  of  churches, 
the  sanctuary  that  could  crowd  the  most  bells  into  its  turrets, 
and  raise  the  loudest  clangor,  possessed  the  strongest  odor  of 
sanctity. 

Every  time  you  pass  acquaintances,  it  is  considered  proper 
to  salute  them.  The  ladies  do  this  sort  of  thing  very  grace- 
fully, but  at  the  same  time  in  such  a  way  that  you  are  puzzled 
to  know  whether  they  are  merely  giving  you  recognition  or 
beckoning  to  you.  They  raise  the  hand  till  the  tips  of  the  fin- 
gers are  on  a  level  with  their  eyes,  then  they  flutter  them  back- 
wards and  forwards,  seeming  to  invite  approach  rather  than 
to  give  an  ordinary  salutation ;  and  their  bright,  beaming  eyes 
add  to  the  illusion. 

The  most  interesting  feature  of  the  day  was  a  group  of  Indians 
representing  the  costumes  and  dances  of  the  aborigines.  The 
people  found  in  possession  of  Yucatan,  who  fought  the  early 
Spaniards  and  were  finally  subjugated  by  them,  who  probably 
built  the  cities  that  have  been  nothing  but  ruins  for  centuries, 
were  the  Mayas  (pronounced  My-yahs),  and  were  sun-worship- 
pers. It  has  been  stated  that  no  traditions  regarding  them  exist 
among  the  present  inhabitants  of  Yucatan.  The  dance  that  I 
witnessed  at  the  carnival  completely  refuted  this,  as  will  now  ap- 
pear. The  first  thing  these  Indians  did  was  to  spread  a  banner  in 
the  centre  of  the  room,  on  which  was  painted  a  figure  of  the  sun, 
with  two  people  kneeling  in  adoration  of  that  luminary.  The 
chief  of  this  band  of  about  twenty  Indians  then  suspended  from  his 
neck  a  bright-colored  representation  of  the  sun  stamped  on  tin. 
At  the  foot  of  the  banner-staff  crouched  an  old  man,  with  a  drum 
made  by  stretching  the  skin  of  a  calf  or  goat  over  one  end  of 
a  hollow  log.  At  the  side  of  the  drum  hung  a  shell  of  a  land 
tortoise,  and  the  old  man  beat  the  drum  and  rattled  the  shell  in 


54 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


unison.  The  object  with  which  he  beat  the  drum  attracted  my 
attention,  and  I  examined  it  and  found  it  to  be  the  gilded  horn 
of  a  deer.  This  hollow  drum,  with  turtle-shell  and  deer's  antler, 
fully  confirms  the  statement  that  the  music  is  aboriginal ;  for  one 
of  the  old  chroniclers,  in  an  account  of  a  terrible  battle  with  the 
Indians  of  Campeche, — writing  not  long  after  the  event,  —  says 
that  they  made  a  most  horrible  and  deafening  noise  with  these 
instruments  :  "  They  had  flutes  and  large  sea-shells  for  trumpets, 
and  turtle-shells,  which  they  struck  with  deers'  horns." 

After  the  banner  was  spread,  the  band  ran  around  it  in  a 
crouching  attitude ;  in  one  hand  each  held  a  rattle,  and  in  the 
other  a  fan  of  turkey  feathers,  with  a  handle  formed  by  the  foot 
and  claw  of  the  bird.  Each  one  wore  a  wire  mask,  with  a 
handkerchief  over  his  head,  and  a  mantle  embroidered  with 
figures  of  animals  and  hung  with  small  sea-shells.  The  cos- 
tume was  that  of  the  Mestiza  women,  —  a  skirt  from  the  waist 
to  the  ankles,  with  their  peculiar  dress  over  it,  — just  such  a  one 
as  was  w^orn  by  their  ancestors  centuries  ago,  and  by  the  ancient 
Egyptians.  On  their  feet  they  wore  sandals,  tied  on  with 
hempen  rope.  The  chief  was  distinguished  by  a  high  crown 
of  peacock  feathers.  He  chanted  something  in  the  Maya  lan- 
guage, and  they  replied ;  and  then  the  music  struck  up  a  weird 
strain  and  they  danced  furiously,  assuming  ludicrous  postures, 
yet  all  having  seeming  significance,  shaking  their  rattles  and 
fans  to  right  and  left,  and  all  keeping  perfect  time.  After 
nearly  half  an  hour  of  dancing  they  stopped,  at  a  signal  from  the 
chief,  and  gathered  about  the  banner,  gazing  upon  the  image  of 
the  sun  with  looks  of  adoration. 

This  was  the  dance  of  sorrow,  or  supplication;  after  it  came 
the  dance  of  joy,  an  Indian  fandango;  then  the  flag  was  furled, 
and  the  floor  occupied  by  two  couples.  After  this  dance  was 
finished  they  all  adjourned  to  the  court-yard,  where  the  Consul 
had  provided  a  large  jug  oi  aguardiente.  Of  this  they  imbibed 
through  small  tubes  of  the  size  of  a  pipe-stem,  which  all  carried. 
These  people  kept  this  thing  up  four  days  and  nights,  dancing 
and  drinking  all  day,  yet  not  one  seemed  weary  and  not  one 
was  drunk.     At  dark  they  took  their  leave,  politely  thanking  us 


YUCATECOS. 


55 


for  our  attention,  and  we  soon  heard  them  dancing  and  drum- 
ming in  another  house  near  us. 

Those  moving  in  the  higher  circles  of  society  took  their  en- 
joyment at  night  in  dancing,  and  there  were  two  grand  balls  in 
progress  at  once.     The  entrance  into  the  club-room  from  the 


f^^'i\-.- 


street  was 
at  once  into 
a  spacious 
court,  where 
great  bana- 
nas and  plan- 
tams  lifted  their  broad  leaves,  and 
these  were  hung  with  Chinese  lanterns. 
About  this  court  were  broad  corridors, 
with  doors  opening  into  the  main  ball- 
room. The  orchestra  was  at  one  end, 
under  the  high  stone  arches,  conven- 
iently near  to  the  bar.  As  the  ladies  en- 
tered, they  were  escorted  to  seats  in  the  main  saloon,  a  long  and 
high,  though  narrow  room,  where  they  sat  ranged  on  both  sides. 
They  wore  every  variety  of  dress,  from  silk  to  calico,  and,  while 
some  of  the  costumes  were  gorgeous,  the  majority  were  neat, 
fresh,  and  tasteful.  The  faces  of  the  young  ladies  were  sweet, 
pensive,  and  very  pretty;  the  blooming  complexions,  though 
perhaps  short-lived,  soft  and  mellow-tinted. 


<9j>^j' 


A   COURT 


56 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


The  prevailing  characteristics,  glancing  down  the  line  of 
beauties,  are  large,  black,  liquid  eyes,  bright  brunette  skins,  and 
abundant  black  hair.  Notwithstanding  a  prevailing  belief  to 
the  contrary,  I  think  the  girls  of  tropical  climates  fully  as  modest 
in  their  appearance  as  their  Northern  sisters.  Their  training 
in  seclusion  has  not  counted  for  nothing.  Whatever  their  in- 
most desires  may  be,  outwardly  they  are  as  pure  as  the  firmest 
Quaker.  They  look  at  the  young  men  demurely,  but  if  gazed 
at  they  drop  their  eyes,  yet  not  without  showing  the  delight 


YUCATECAN  CALEZA. 


CUBAN  VOLANTE. 


a  young  man's  presence  causes  them.     Yet  their  nature  is  not 
intense,  but  warm  and  indolent. 

Everything  here  is  for  the  enjoyment  of  the  men,  —  the  parks, 
the  promenades,  the  drives,  the  cafes,  the  social  life.  Poor 
woman  is  looked  upon  merely  as  the  Turk  regards  his  mis- 
tress, —  as  an  object  to  be  kept  jealously  out  of  sight  of  the 
stranger,  as  a  toy  for  the  moment's  enjoyment.  That  she  rebels 
and  repines  at  her  harsh  treatment  is  evident  to  the  observer. 
But  heartily  do  they  enjoy  the  exquisite  pleasures  of  the  car- 
nival. Here  they  can  meet  their  lovers,  and  most  zealously 
do  they  improve  the  fleeting  hours  in  the  ball-room.     It  is  said 


YUCATECOS. 


57 


that  all  the  engagements  are  made  at  this  season,  and  the  poor 
lovers  have  little  chance  for  meeting  again,  before  another  carni- 
val, except  in  the  watchful  presence  of  the  lady's  mother.  They 
yield  themselves  to  the  sweet  abandon  of  the  hour,  and  float 
through  the  dances;  but  they  quake  inwardly  at  the  thought 
of  the  scoldings  they  will  get  from  the  lynx-eyed  duennas,  who 
—  now  old  and  ugly  —  enviously  begrudge  their  daughters  these 
little  pleasures. 

No  people  in  the  world  are  pleasanter,  or  possessed  of  more 
delightful  manners,  than  the  Yucatecos,  and  they  might  be  taken 
as  models  to  be  studied  with  advantage.  The  Yucatan  dance  is 
slow  and  measured,  simply  a  walk-around,  and  so  no  one  gets 
warm  and  perspiring.  Dance  follows  dance,  until  twelve  o'clock, 
when  the  ladies  begin  to  lessen  in  number,  and  by  one  the  hall 
is  empty. 

Five  nights  they  kept  the  ball  in  motion,  improving  every  pre- 
cious hour  of  the  carnival ;  and  at  its  ending  there  were,  doubt- 
less, many  souls  made  happy  with  the  thought  that  they  twain 
should  some  time  be  one;  while  a  great  many  more  were  dis- 
appointed, and  were  relegated  to  another  year's  imprisonment. 

To  the  great  regret  of  the  people,  the  carnival  finally  ended, 
the  noise  of  revelry  ceased,  all  the  fair  seTwritas  were  safely 
housed  in  their  respective  prisons,  the  lights  of  the  ball-room 
extinguished ;  and  we  walked  home  to  our  hammocks  beneath 
the  glimmer  of  the  serenest  of  stars,  and  through  an  atmosphere 
delicious  in  its  coolness. 


III. 

UXMAL,   THE   RUINED   CITY. 

BURIED  in  the  wildernesses  of  Yucatan,  ruined  cities  await 
in  silence  the  coming  of  the  traveller,  —  cities  that  had 
their  birth  so  far  back  in  the  twilight  of  time  that  not  a  tradition 
even  remains  to  tell  who  built  them.  Within  a  radius  of  one 
hundred  miles  from  Merida  are  such  magnificent  ruins  as  Maya- 
pan,  Ake,  Chichen-Itza,  Kabah,  and  Labna,  and  scores  of  others. 
But  none  is  more  interesting  than  UXMAL,  which  is  also  very 
accessible,  being  within  forty  miles  of  the  capital,  in  a  straight 
line,  and  sixty  miles  by  road.  At  four  o'clock  in  the  morning 
after  the  last  ball  of  the  carnival,  the  Consul  woke  me.  He 
had  just  returned  from  the  scene  of  revelry  and  yet  wore  his 
official  uniform ;  but  in  half  an  hour  he  had  exchanged  this  for 
a  plainer  garb,  had  packed  a  small  valise  with  articles  for  a  trip, 
and  was  ready  for  an  excursion  to  Uxmal.  The  morning  was 
very  cold,  the  stars  were  still  shining  brightly,  while  the  Great 
Bear  was  crouched  away  west  of  the  north  star,  hanging  above 
it  with  his  tail  in  the  air. 

The  volan  came  at  five,  the  driver  tied  valises  and  gun-cases 
to  the  axle,  and  we  crawled  in  and  lay  down  on  the  mattress. 
Early  as  it  was,  there  was  some  life  astir,  —  men  wrapped  in 
their  sarape-^,  and  a  cart  with  women  from  the  country.  We 
cleared  the  city  limits  before  daybreak,  passing  through  the 
gate  of  San  Cristobal,  meeting  many  teams,  loaded  with  wood 
and  hemp,  with  people  perched  on  top  under  little  shelter,  all 
shivering  with  the  cold. 

Travelling  in  Yucatan  is  attended  with  some  difficulties, 
owing  to  the  heat  of  day  and  the  bad  state  of  the  roads.  To 
avoid  the  heat,  all  long  journeys  are  performed  by  night.     To 


o 

O 

w 
< 
< 

o 

o 

H 
Pi 
O 


UXMAL,   THE   RUINED   CITY.  6l 

mitigate  the  roughness  of  the  road,  a  peculiar  style  of  vehicle 
is  employed,  called  a  volaii.  This  is  a  Yucatecan  conveyance 
sui  generis,  and  not  found  anywhere  else;  it  might  be  called 
a  modified  volante,  —  in  common  use  in  Cuba,  —  only,  instead 
of  sitting  up  in  it,  you  lie  down.  It  has  two  large  wheels,  and 
the  body  of  the  concern  is  placed  directly  above  the  axle,  sus- 
pended upon  high,  very  elastic  springs.  The  shafts  arc  very 
long,  and  a  framework  projects  behind,  upon  which  trunks  may 
be  secured,  and  a  bottom  of  interlaced  ropes  supports  a  mattress. 
It  has  a  canvas  top,  and  is  always  drawn  by  three  mules, — 
one  in  the  shafts  and  one  on  either  side,  —  harnessed  in  by  such 
a  combination  of  leather  and  rope  that  no  stranger  could,  by 
any  possibility,  disentangle  them.  These  mules  are  generally 
very  small,  but  make  up  for  lack  of  size  by  the  length  of  their 
ears,  which  they  carry  along  their  backs. 

The  sun  came  up ;  the  western  sky  was  reddened  and  the  fine 
leaves  of  the  mimosas  were  gilded  by  its  first  rays.  The  many 
birds  that  live  in  the  scrub  then  came  out:  blackbirds,  "  chick- 
bulls  "  or  Crotophaga,  jays,  orioles,  and  at  one  place  we  passed 
the  fresh  skeleton  of  an  ox  covered  with  vultures,  the  species 
common  in  the  Southern  United  States  and  the  West  Indies,  — 
Cathartes  atira  and  atratiis.  At  nine  o'clock,  having  accom- 
plished two  fifths  of  the  journey,  we  came  in  sight  of  the  haci- 
enda of  Uayalke.  We  entered  the  great  gate,  and  our  driver 
stopped  under  a  large  tree  in  front  of  the  house,  and  unhitched 
the  mules,  as  though  all  belonged  to  us.  This  is  one  of  the 
delights  of  travel  in  Yucatan :  that  any  hacendado,  or  owner  of  a 
hacienda,  makes  you  welcome  to  his  hospitality;  there  being 
no  hotels  in  the  country,  this  has  become  a  necessity,  to  which 
they  gracefully  submit.  We  ascended  the  steps  and  were 
greeted  by  the  mayor-domo,  who  showed  us  all  over  the  house 
and  ordered  breakfast  at  once, —  a  charming  repast,  of  tortillas, 
frijoles,  eggs,  oranges,  and  chocolate,  with  a  jar  of  water  in 
common. 

This  hacienda  is  a  very  large  one,  having  thousands  of  acres 
planted  in  hemp,  with  great  engines  busily  at  work  crushing 
the  leaves  and   rasping  the  pulp.      Great  stone  corridors  sur- 


62  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

round  the  house,  and  a  broad  alameda,  or  shaded  walk,  ex- 
tends out  to  the  gardens,  passing  above  the  stables.  Here  a 
score  or  more  of  women  were  drawing  water  from  two  deep 
wells,  reaching  a  ccnote  by  an  endless  chain  of  bark  buckets 
running  over  a  large  wheel.  They  were  going  and  coming  in 
endless  procession,  with  large  cantaros,  or  jars,  upon  their  hips. 
This  water  serves  to  irrigate  the  garden,  full  of  orange  trees, 
coffee,  and  coco  palms.  Without  it,  the  plain  about  would  be 
a  waste ;  with  it,  it  blossomed  like  an  oasis,  as  it  was.  The 
lime-rock  crops  up  everywhere,  and  about  the  orange  trees 
brick  walls  have  been  built  to  retain  the  water.  Everywhere  are 
high  stone  and  arched  gateways,  and  away  on  every  side  stretch 
broad  fields  of  hemp.  Everybody  seemed  cheerful,  busy,  and 
modest.  After  we  were  made  welcome  the  head  servants  came 
up  and  saluted  each  of  us,  ''Buenos  dias,  seiior !  "  and  about 
twenty  savage-looking  fellows,  who  came  in  with  huge  bales  of 
grass  strapped  to  their  heads,  and  with  long  machetes  hanging 
at  their  sides,  left  their  loads  and  bade  us  good  morning,  bowing 
to  us  gracefully.  There  was  a  clock-tower  here,  and  a  chapel 
with  figures  in  stone  over  the  door;  a  fountain  stood  in  the 
centre  of  the  yard,  and  orange  trees  in  bloom,  full  of  doves  and 
warblers,  shaded  the  corridor.  Outside  the  hacienda  walls  lay 
scattered  curious  elliptical  huts,  with  stone  walls  and  thatched 
roofs,  the  homes  of  the  laborers. 

An  hour  after  leaving  this  hacienda  we  reached  that  of 
Mucuyche,  famous  for  its  cenote,  or  water-cave.  There  are  no 
rivers  in  Yucatan  that  flow  above  ground,  and  the  people  are 
wholly  dependent  upon  the  clouds  for  their  supply  of  water, 
and  upon  the  rivers  that  run  beneath  the  surface.  The  whole 
province  is  one  vast  table  of  coral  rock,  beneath  which  flow 
large  streams,  and  even  rivers.  These  break  out  at  intervals 
into  caves  and  caverns,  formed  by  earthquake  and  the  pres- 
sure of  the  water,  though  sometimes  the  supply  is  due  to  the 
infiltration  of  surface  water  into  natural  grottos  in  the  coral 
rock.  The  Indians,  centuries  ago,  marked  the  courses  of  these 
subterranean  streams  by  heaps  of  stones,  and  their  cities  were 
always  built  near  or  about  the  water-caves,  as  is  now  shown  by 


UXMAL,   THE   RUINED   CITY.  63 

their  ruins.  These  caves,  where  the  rivers  appear  to  the  Hght 
of  day,  are  called  cenotes.  There  are  many  in  Yucatan,  and  in 
Merida  are  several,  utilized  as  bathing-places,  —  most  refresh- 
ing resorts  in  the  heat  of  day.  The  cenote  at  Mucuyche  is  a 
cavern,  perhaps  forty  feet  deep,  broken  down  at  one  side,  form- 
ing an  arch  of  limestone  with  every  shape  of  stalagmite  and  sta- 
lactite, the  roof  full  of  holes,  in  which  were  the  nests  of  hundreds 
of  swallows  and  hornets,  A  flight  of  stone  steps  leads  from  the 
delightful  garden  above,  and  some  avocado  pears  and  coco  palms 
growing  at  the  bottom  thrust  their  crowns  above  the  general 
level  of  the  ground.  The  water  is  clear  and  very  deep  at  the 
east  end  of  the  cave,  with  many  fish  in  it, —  "cenote  fish,"  — 
which  are  said  to  be  blind,  like  those  in  the  Mammoth  Cave. 
Roots  of  trees  hang  pendent  in  clusters,  behind  which  lizards 
and  iguanas  dart  along  the  ledges ;  swallows  circle  in  dense 
masses  about  the  arch,  forming  a  complete  ring,  and  making 
a  deafening  whirring  noise  with  their  wings.  The  way  to  the 
cave  was  past  the  great  front  corridor  above  the  cattle-yard,  — 
all  cattle-yards  of  Yucatan  are  in  front  of,  and  immediately 
adjoining,  the  dwellings  of  the  proprietors,  —  past  the  well, 
where  pretty  mestizas  were  drawing  water,  and  through  a 
garden  full  of  orange  and  lemon  trees. 

Our  delays  made  our  driver  impatient,  and  he  plied  the  Jash 
upon  those  unhappy  mules  more  furiously,  if  possible,  than  be- 
fore, urging  them  with  his  tongue,  likewise,  by  shouting,  "  Mula  ! 
Mtila  !  "  and  clucking  so  strongly  with  his  lips  that  I  thought 
some  of  the  braces  had  cracked,  and  looked  out.  The  cart  was 
banged  over  rocks  and  into  holes,  the  mules  going  at  a  full  trot, 
and  on  level  road  at  a  gallop,  and  our  half-reclining  position 
was  anything  but  pleasant. 

The  vegetation  hitherto  had  been  the  same,  low  trees  and 
bushes,  but  the  mimosas  grew  taller  as  we  went  on.  At  one 
point  on  the  road  we  stopped  to  examine  an  Indian  mound,  and 
found  broken  sculptures  and  blocks  of  limestone  scattered  about 
through  the  bushes,  indicating  that  we  were  in  the  field  of  ruins 
to  which  appertained  the  great  dead  city.  From  its  summit 
we  looked  over  a  wide  extent  of  plain,  flat  as  a  table,  with  only 


64  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

now  and  then  a  large  tree  and  with  a  single  line  of  hills,  blue  in 
the  distance,  ten  miles  beyond  which  was  our  destination. 

In  descending,  we  found  ourselves  covered  with  garrapatas,  or 
ticks,  with  which  the  entire  territory  of  Yucatan  abounds.  These 
insects  are  very  small,  but  also  very  annoying,  for  no  one  can 
venture  into  a  wood  without  being  covered  with  them,  and  they 
cause  a  dreadful  itching,  festering  in  the  wounds.  The  only 
protection  from  them  that  I  am  aware  of  is  petroleum,  with 
which  the  entire  body  must  be  rubbed,  and  the  clothes  must  be 
changed  when  coming  from  the  fields.  Emerging  from  the 
miles  of  woods,  we  saw  a  hemp-field,  and  soon  the  white  gate 
of  a  hacienda,  —  a  beautiful  place,  —  which  we  reached  at  four 
in  the  afternoon.  We  intended  to  go  on,  but  the  mayor-domo 
pressed  us  to  stay,  and  gave  us  a  splendid  supper  of  turtle-soup 
and  steak,  eggs,  frijoles,  and  tortillas,  with  claret  and  honey.  A 
garden,  every  way  the  equal  of  that  we  had  visited  in  the  morn- 
ing, surrounded  the  house,  and  we  walked  in  its  delightful  shades 
in  the  evening.  The  beehives  attracted  my  attention,  they  were 
so  primitive  and  so  complete,  for  a  tropical  country,  being  merely 
round  hollow  logs,  about  tw^o  feet  long,  plastered  up  at  each  end 
with  mud,  and  piled  up  in  long  rows.  They  are  emptied  every 
six  weeks.  The  honey  is  so  fragrant  at  some  seasons  as  to  scent 
the  house ;  and  there  is  an  added  charm  to  bee-keeping  in  this 
country  from  the  fact  that  the  bees  are  stingless.  At  sunset  the 
chapel  bell  sounded  for  oracioti,  or  evening  prayer,  and  all  the 
laborers  gathered  about  with  uncovered  heads.  When  it  was 
finished,  they  came  to  us  and  wished  us  "  Bueiias  noches  "  (good 
night).  This  delightful  custom  is  in  vogue  in  every  portion  of 
the  country;  in  Merida,  the  servants  and  children  never  failed 
to  give  us  this  salutation  of  peace,  as  the  last  stroke  of  the  bell 
died  on  the  air. 

That  evening,  in  March,  1881,  was  a  glorious  one,  with  a  new 
moon,  and  Venus,  Jupiter,  and  Saturn  forming  a  triangle  above 
her.  We  slept  in  hammocks  in  the  corridor,  and  at  four  next 
morning  were  out  in  search  of  Jose,  our  driver;  at  six,  after 
waiting  a  long  time  for  chocolate,  we  left  the  hospitable  mayor- 
domo,  who  was  complaining  of  having  been  kept  up  after  his 


UXMAL,   THE   RUINED   CITY. 


65 


usual  hour  of  retiring,  eight  o'clock,  by  some  of  his  people  who 
had  been  off  at  a  fiesta.  The  hacienda  of  San  Jose  is  near  the 
Sierra,  the  only  line  of  hills  in  Yucatan,  and  here  called  moun- 
tains. These  we  climbed  easily,  sitting  in  the  front  of  the  volan, 
to  avoid  tipping  up  the  mules,  and  descended  the  other  slope 
before  the  sun  got  hot.  The  driver  urged  the  mules  down  hill 
at  a  furious  pace,  lashing  them  all  the  way,  over  steep,  slippery 


CORRIDOR   OF   HACIENDA. 


rocks,  and  along  the  borders  of  high  cliffs,  but  when  we  reached 
level  going  he  pulled  them  up !  VVe  had  been  going  about  two 
hours,  when  we  saw  Jose  pull  out  a  long  black  cigar  and  light 
it.  By  this  sign  we  knew  we  were  near  a  town  or  hacienda,  this 
being  an  invariable  custom,  as  no  high-bred  driver  will  appear 
in  any  village  or  plantation  without  a  lighted  cigar  in  his  mouth 
and  driving  like  mad.     Sure  enough,  the  hemp-fields  soon  hove 

5 


66  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

in  sight,  and  then  the  hacienda,  into  the  yard  of  which  we  rode 
wildly,  took  out  the  mules,  and  carried  our  traps  to  the  corri- 
dor,—  and  then  asked  permission  to  stop  there.  The  proprietor 
was  there,  by  some  good  fortune,  and  gave  us  the  best  he  had 
at  once.  Hammocks  were  assigned  us  in  a  large  room,  our 
mules  were  stabled,  and  we  were  invited  to  partake  of  the  hos- 
pitality of  the  hacienda  for  the  week  that  we  intended  to  stay 
there.  It  was  a  mile  to  the  ruins,  portions  of  which  we  found 
imbedded  in  the  walls  of  the  buildings  and  the  fences.  At  the 
right  hand  of  the  corridor  was  the  veritable  "  two-headed  tiger" 
discovered  and  unearthed  by  Stephens,  forty  years  ago,  at  the 
palace  of  Uxmal,  and  brought  here  by  the  present  proprietor 
for  safe-keeping ;  and  a  heap  of  small  idols  lay  at  the  foot  of  a 
palm  tree  growing  near  it. 

So  much  did  the  proprietor  of  Uxmal  facilitate  our  prepara- 
tions, that  at  ten  o'clock  we  had  traversed  the  intervening  space 
between  the  hacienda  and  the  ruins,  and  were  at  the  base  of  the 
great  pyramid.  I  do  not  know  whether  a  writer  ought  to  de- 
scribe his  sensations,  or  merely  what  he  sees,  leaving  it  for  the 
reader  to  imagine  what  he  would  have  thought  and  felt  had  he 
been  there ;  but  it  may  not  be  out  of  place  to  say  that  I  was 
elated  at  the  prospect  of  looking  for  the  first  time  upon  these 
magnificent  ruins,  and  that  a  variety  of  emotions  kept  me  in  a 
state  of  expectation  and  pleasurable  excitement.  We  climbed 
up  the  steep  sides  of  the  pyramid,  generally  known  as  the  Casa 
del  Adivhio}  or  "  House  of  the  Prophet,"  and  from  its  summit, 
from  the  roof  of  its  topmost  building,  —  diflficult  to  reach  and 
offering  precarious  foothold,  —  a  glorious  panorama  was  spread 
before  us. 

West,  directly  below,  was  the  Casa  de  las  Monjas,  or  "  House 
of  the  Nuns,"  in  its  ruins  beautiful  beyond  description  ;  south,  the 
principal  building  of  the  group,  the  "  House  of  the  Governor," 


1  Literally,  "  House  of  the  Soothsayer,"  or  "  Diviner,"  but  called  "  House  of  the 
Dwarf,"  from  a  fanciful  legend,  related  by  the  natives,  that  it  was  built  by  a  savage 
dwarf  in  a  single  night.  The  names  of  all  the  buildings  are  misnomers,  their  origi- 
nal ones  (if  they  had  any)  having  been  forgotten,  and  replaced  by  comparatively 
modern  appellations  by  the  Spanish  invaders. 


UXMAL,   THE   RUINED   CITY.  67 

or  Casa  del  Gobernadory  raised  upon  its  immense  terraces,  one  of 
which  also  supported  the  "  House  of  the  Turtles"  (yCasa  de  Las 
Tortugas),  with  the  "Nameless  Mound"  beyond  them  all;  east 
of  south  lay  the  ruins  of  Casa  de  la  Vieja  (the  "  Old  Woman's 
House"),  all  tumbled  about  her  head;  from  south  to  west  cir- 
cled mounds  and  clusters  of  ruins,  such  as  the  "  House  of  the 
Pigeons  "  (^Casa  de  las  Paloinas),  and  the  remains  of  an  extensive 
series  of  buildings ;  beyond  this  city  could  be  seen  other  ruins, 
perhaps  other  cities,  reaching  out  in  a  long  line  that  could  be 
traced  miles  away. 

"  The  dense  wild  wood  that  hid  the  royal  seat, 
The  lofty  palms  that  choked  the  winding  street, 
Man's  hand  hath  felled,  and  now,  in  day's  fair  light, 
Uxmal's  broad  ruins  burst  upon  the  sight." 

A  great  plain  surrounded  us,  smooth  and  level  as  the  sea, 
with  a  range  of  hills  circling  from  northwest  to  southeast.  This 
mound,  or  pyramid,  lying  due  east  from  the  city,  was  proba- 
bly used  as  a  place  of  sacrifice.  The  rooms  of  the  building 
that  forms  the  apex  of  the  structure  are  small,  and  with  the  pe- 
culiar arch  without  the  keystone,  the  entire  building  being  about 
seventy  feet  long  and  only  twelve  feet  deep.  It  is  rich  in  sculp- 
ture; the  hieroglyphics  on  the  western  part  are  in  a  good  state 
of  preservation,  and  a  certain  archaeologist  claims  to  have  the 
key  to  their  meaning.  The  entire  pyramid^  is  one  hundred  and 
five  feet  high,  "  not  exactly  pyramidal,"  but  with  rounded  sides. 
A  staircase,  seventy  feet  wide,  one  hundred  and  two  feet  high, 
and  containing  ninety  steps,  climbs  the  eastern  face  of  the 
structure  from  the  base  to  the  platform.  The  steps  are  narrow 
and  steep,  and  we  can  well  believe  that  when,  as  the  old  histo- 
rians relate,  the  high  priest  kicked  the  body  of  the  victim  of 
sacrifice  from  the  house  of  the  altar,  it  fell  the  whole  distance 
of  a  hundred  feet  to  the  ground,  —  that  "  it  never  stopped  till 
it  came  to  the  bottom."     We  had  much  difficulty  in  getting  up, 

*  Norman,  who  visited  Yucatan  between  the  two  visits  of  Stephens, —  1840  and 
1842,  —  varies  slightly  in  his  measurements  from  the  latter  author,  whose  descrip- 
tions I  follow  in  the  main ;  but  his  examination  was  a  hasty  one,  and  where  there 
is  a  difference,  it  will  be  safer  to  accept  the  data  furnished  by  Stephens. 


68  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

and  a  great  deal  more  in  getting  down,  where  a  single  false  step 
would  have  precipitated  us  headlong.  Waldeck^  considers  this 
a  place  originally  devoted  to  sacrifices,  and  says  the  "  Asiatic 
style  "  is  easily  recognized  in  the  architecture  of  this  monument. 

By  far  the  finest  building  of  the  city,  conspicuous  alike  from 
its  position  and  the  completeness  of  its  preservation,  is  the 
"  Royal  Palace,"  the  Casa  del  Gobernador.  After  the  Conjurer's 
Pyramid,  this  was  the  next  pile  visited  by  us,  and  made  the 
point  of  departure  for  subsequent  excursions  during  the  five 
days  we  remained  there.  It  stands  upon  the  topmost  of  three 
terraces  of  earth,  —  once  perhaps  faced  with  stone,  but  now 
crumbled  and  broken.  The  lowermost  and  largest  is  575  feet 
long;  the  second,  545  feet  long,  250  wide,  and  25  feet  high; 
while  the  third  and  last  is  360  feet  in  length,  30  in  breadth, 
and  19  in  height,  and  supports  the  building,  which  has  a  front 
of  322  feet,  with  a  depth  of  only  39  and  a  height  of  but  25  feet. 
It  is  entirely  of  stone  without  ornament  to  a  height  of  about  ten 
feet,  where  there  is  a  wide  cornice,  above  which  the  wall  is  a 
bewildering  maze  of  beautiful  sculpture.  The  roof  was  flat  and 
once  covered  with  cement,  in  the  opinion  of  certain  travellers, 
but  is  now  a  miniature  forest  of  the  indigenous  shrubs  and 
small  trees  of  Yucatan,  —  a  hanging-garden  of  Nature's  own 
formation,  such  as  she  covers  every  object  with,  in  a  few  years, 
in  this  tropical  portion  of  her  domain.  There  are  three  large 
doorways  through  the  eastern  wall,  about  eight  feet  square,  giv- 
ing entrance  into  a  series  of  apartments,  the  largest  of  which  is 
sixty  feet  long  and  twenty-seven  deep,  divided  into  two  rooms 
by  a  thick  wall.  The  ceiling  of  each  room  is  a  triangular  arch 
(such  as  is  figured  a  little  farther  on),  capped  by  flat  blocks  at 
a  height  of  twenty-three  feet  above  the  floor.  The  latter,  like 
the  walls  and  the  jambs  of  the  doorways,  is  of  smooth,  faced 
stones,  that  may  once  have  been  covered  with  cement. 

It  is  impossible  to  convey  in  mere  words  a  picture,  either  in 
general  or  in  detail,  of  this  beautiful  building;  and  hence  I  sup- 
plement my  meagre  description  with  engravings  which  I  have 
procured,  knowing  that  they  will  speak  more  eloquently  than 

1   Voyage  Pittoresque  et  Archeologiqiie  datis  la  Province  de  Vueatati,  Paris,  1838. 


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UXMAL,    THE   RUINED   CITY.  71 

the  pen.  In  them,  the  intricate  details  of  the  sculpture,  that 
baffled  even  the  pencil  of  the  accomphshed  Catherwood,  are 
presented  clearly  at  a  glance. 

Within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  "  Governor's  Palace  "  is  a  small 
building  far  gone  in  ruins,  displaying  workmanship  of  great 
skill,  and  sculpture  chaste  in  design,  called  the  "  House  of  the 
Turtles,"  —  Casa  de  las  Tortugas.  It  derives  its  name  from 
a  row  of  turtles  used  as  ornaments  to  the  upper  cornice.  It 
may  have  served  as  the  kitchen  to  the  royal  residence,  —  accept- 
ing Indian  tradition  in  regard  to  the  names,  —  but  was  once 
beautiful  enough  for  a  temple. 

If  the  "  Governor's  House "  claims  attention  from  its  con- 
spicuous position  and  size,  the  Casa  de  las  Moujas,  the  so-called 
"  House  of  the  Nuns,"  presents  the  greatest  variety  of  sculptured 
forms  and  richest  ornaments.  It  is  composed  of  four  buildings, 
the  longest  of  which  is  279  feet  and  about  equal  in  height  to  the 
palace,  enclosing  a  court  258  feet  long  and  214  wide.  The 
entrance  is  on  the  southern  side,  through  a  high  arched  gate- 
way ten  feet  wide.  There  are  no  doors  or  windows  opening  on 
the  outside,  though  there  are  in  all  eighty-eight  apartments 
opening  upon  the  court. 

The  facades  of  this  immense  quadrangle  are  ornamented,  says 
Stephens,^  with  the  richest  and  most  intricate  carving  known  in 
the  art  of  the  builders  of  Uxmal.  That  portion  forming  the 
western  boundary,  at  the  left  as  one  enters  the  court,  is  the 
most  wonderful  of  all ;  for  its  entire  length  of  173  feet  is  covered 
by  two  colossal  serpents,  whose  intertwined  bodies  enclose  a 
puzzling  variety  of  sculptured  hieroglyphs.  Theory  and  specu- 
lation do  not  enter  into  the  plan  of  this  work,  or  I  should 
venture  a  few  remarks  upon  the  personage  or  deity  this  great 
serpent  is  intended  to  represent.     We  shall  see  later  on,  in  Mex- 

'  This  traveller,  accompanied  by  the  talented  Catherwood,  visited  and  described 
the  most  important  ruins  of  Honduras,  Guatemala,  Chiapas,  and  Yucatan,  and  his 
works,  "  Incidents  of  Travel  in  Central  America,  Chiapas,  and  Yucatan,"  and 
"  Incidents  of  Travel  in  Yucatan,"  have  been  accepted  as  standard  authorities  upon 
them.  We  can  hardly  travel  there  without  treading  in  his  footsteps,  and  hence  I 
have  used  his  measurements  of  buildings,  and  can  vouch  for  the  accuracy  of  his 
descriptions. 


"^2  TRAVELS  IN   MEXICO. 

ico,  the  same  feathered  or  plumed  serpent,  and  cannot  help 
recalling  the  Aztec  tradition  regarding  it.  In  another  decade  of 
years  it  is  possible  that  this  grand  conception  embodied  in  stone 
by  the  Indian  sculptors  will  be  mutilated  beyond  repair,  as  a 
great  portion  of  the  wall  has  already  been  torn  away  for  build- 
ing purposes.  Yuccas  and  other  semi-tropical  plants  adorn  the 
roof  of  this  building,  and  also  the  ground  in  front,  rendering 
approach  to  it  somewhat  difficult.  At  the  southern  end  of  the 
court  the  folds  of  the  serpents  surround  a  standing  human 
figure,  now  much  mutilated,  a  subject  rarely  used  in  the  orna- 
mentation of  these  buildings.  If  the  drawing  by  Catherwood, 
made  forty  years  ago,  is  correct,  all  the  faced  stone  below  the 
figure  has  been  torn  away  since  he  was  there.  The  northern 
and  eastern  fagades  have  been  greatly  injured  since  Stephens's 
visit,  and  most  of  the  grotesque  ornaments,  the  rosettes  and 
heads,  broken  or  wrenched  entirely  away.  The  hand  of  man 
proves  more  ruthless  than  the  hand  of  time ;  and,  since  the 
exportation  of  antiquities  has  been  forbidden  by  the  Mexican 
government,  it  is  evident  that  these  stones  have  been  removed 
by  the  proprietors  of  Uxmal,  or  the  laborers,  for  use  in  their 
dwellings. 

These  three  structures  comprise  the  principal  buildings  at 
present  in  a  state  of  preservation  that  makes  them  of  interest 
to  the  general  traveller.  There  are  others,  even  in  this  group, 
as  mentioned  in  the  view  from  the  high  mound,  but  they  are 
in  such  a  state  of  ruin  that  their  original  form  is  obliterated. 

South  from  Uxmal  are  the  extensive  ruins  of  Kabah,  where 
are  buildings  with  fronts  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  and 
lavishly  ornamented.  Unlike  the  facades  of  the  buildings  of 
Uxmal,  which  were  only  decorated  above  the  doorways,  those 
of  Kabah  were  "  ornamented  from  their  very  foundation." 
Stephens  also  adds :  "  The  cornice  running  over  the  doorways, 
tried  by  the  severest  rules  of  art  recognized  among  us,  would 
embellish  the  art  of  any  known  era ;  and,  amid  a  mass  of  bar- 
barism, of  rude  and  uncouth  conceptions,  it  stands  as  an  offering 
by  American  builders  worthy  of  the  acceptance  of  a  polished 
people."     At  Labna  the  sculpture   is  profuse,  grotesque,  and 


UXMAL,   THE   RUINED   CITY.  75 

florid.  Of  the  sixty  or  seventy  ruined  cities  scattered  through- 
out Yucatan,  none  offers  points  of  greater  interest  than  Uxmal. 
The  ruins  of  Copan,  in  Honduras,  are  distinguished  for  the 
number  of  idols  and  altars  richly  sculptured  ;  those  of  Palenque, 
in  the  State  of  Chiapas,  for  the  profusion  of  stucco  adornment, 
tablets,  bas-reliefs,  and  statuary ;  Uxmal,  for  the  richness  of  its 
sculptured  facades,  the  magnitude  of  its  buildings,  and  the  chaste- 
ness  and  beauty  of  its  statuary,  judging  from  the  few  specimens 
found  there.  There  was  recently  discovered  at  Uxmal,  by  the 
archaeologist.  Dr.  Le  Plongeon,  in  the  summer  of  1881,  a  beau- 
tiful statue,  surpassing  anything  ever  found  among  the  ruins  of 
Central  America.  Fearing  that,  if  made  known  to  the  govern- 
ment, it  would  share  the  fate  of  his  other  discovery  at  Chichen, 
that  of  Chaacmol,  he  closed  the  aperture  leading  to  it ;  and  this 
fair  conception  of  Indian  art  was  again  consigned  to  the  dark- 
ness in  which  it  has  rested  for  centuries. 

Who  are  the  people  who  built  these  structures,  who  lavished 
the  work  of  a  lifetime  upon  their  adornment,  and  who  have 
passed  away  without  leaving  a  memorial  (except  in  undeciphered 
hieroglyphs)  of  their  existence?  Various  are  the  theories  pro- 
pounded, and  presumptuous  would  he  be  who  would  now  offer 
one  differing  from  those  of  the  learned  men, — who  all  differ 
among  themselves !  Writers  seeking  to  find  in  the  Bible  the 
root  of  the  tree  of  the  human  family  have  ascribed  these  build- 
ings to  the  Jews,  to  the  Phoenicians,  and  to  the  Egyptians.  Some 
assign  to  them  a  great  antiquity,  others  claim  that  they  are  of 
comparatively  recent  construction.  Among  the  latter  is  Ste- 
phens, who  says,  "  They  were  not  the  work  of  people  who  have 
passed  away  and  whose  history  is  lost,  but  of  the  same  race 
who  inhabited  the  country  at  the  time  of  the  Spanish  conquest, 
or  of  some  not  very  distant  progenitors."  Yet  he  admits  that 
there  are  no  traditions,  (as  there  should  be  if  his  supposition 
were  correct,)  as  in  the  case  of  Egypt,  Greece,  and  Rome;  and 
this,  with  many  other  facts,  is  in  support  of  the  theories  of 
Dr.  Le  Plongeon  and  other  hardy  thinkers  of  later  date  than 
Stephens,  who  do  not  fear  to  deliver  their  unshackled  opinions. 
The  above-quoted  writer  also  thought  that  perhaps  the  Toltecs, 


J^  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

when  they  left  Anahuac,  came  here,  some  of  them,  and  built 
these  cities ;  yet  again  he  says,  "  They  claim  no  affinity  with 
the  works  of  any  known  people,  but  a  distinct,  independent, 
and  separate  existence."  (  ! ) 

It  will  not  be  permitted  for  men  chained  to  any  particular 
creed,  who  would  fain  be  the  Champollions  of  the  New  World,  to 
decipher  the  inscriptions  on  the  walls  of  these  cities.  We  have 
seen  enough  of  this  kind  in  the  work  of  the  Spanish  ecclesiastics, 
who  perverted  history  that  Indian  traditions  might  conform  to 
the  views  of  priests  and  monks  squinting  through  Papal  specta- 
cles. They  do  not  take  into  account  the  cumulative  evidence 
in  favor  of  an  original  American  civilization,  but  crawl  about, 
groping  for  some  clue  that  shall  lead  up  to  Shem,  Ham,  and 
Japhet ! 

Many  blunders  have  been  committed  by  writers  reasoning 
from  false  premises ;  but  the  most  amusing,  perhaps,  is  one  by 
Prescott,  who,  unfortunately,  obliged  to  avail  himself  solely  of 
the  researches  of  others,  was  led  frequently  into  blind  alleys  and 
byways.  In  writing  of  the  ruins  of  Uxmal  he  says,  "  Another 
evidence  of  their  age  is  afforded  by  the  circumstance  that  in 
one  of  the  courts  of  Uxmal  the  granite  (  ?)  pavement,  on  which 
the  figures  of  tortoises  were  raised  in  relief,  is  worn  nearly 
smooth  by  the  feet  of  the  crowds  who  have  passed  over  it ;  a 
curious  fact,  suggesting  inferences  both  in  regard  to  the  age 
and  population  of  the  place."  Now  this  "  granite  pavement," 
with  its  carven  tortoises,  has  never  been  seen  by  mortal  man, 
although  described  by  the  unreliable  and  wonder-seeking  Wal- 
deck.  The  native  historian  of  Yucatan,  Seiior  Ancona,  calls  at- 
tention to  this  fact,  and  declares  that  we  are  wholly  indebted  to 
the  imagination  of  Waldeck  for  this  statement :  "  Estas  tortttgas, 
expnestas  a  las  piedras  de  la  nmchednmbre,  solo  han  existido  en 
la  imaginacion  de  Waldeck."  It  is  true  that  there  are  many 
sculptures  of  this  kind  in  Uxmal,  but  only  on  the  doors  and 
on  the  cornices. 

The  Consul  and  myself  fixed  our  residence  in  the  Casa  del 
Gobernador,  in  the  inner  room  of  the  great  apartment.  Some 
beams  had  once  crossed  the  room,  at  ten  feet  or  so  above  the 


UXMAL,   THE   RUINED   CITY. 


17 


Stone  floor,  but  they  had  fallen  out  centuries  ago,  leaving  only 
the  sockets.  Into  two  of  these  we  fitted  the  ends  of  a  small 
sapling,  which   our  Indian  cut,  and   crossed  the  space  twenty 


THE   MAYA    ARCH. 


feet  beyond  with  another,  and  in  this  manner  secured  a  hanging- 
place  for    our   hammocks.      The    generous    proprietor   of  the 


y8  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

hacienda  had  furnished  us  with  an  Indian,  a  pure  Maya,  de- 
scended, perhaps,  from  the  very  builders  of  this  palace,  who 
spoke  only  his  native  tongue.  By  signs,  and  with  a  few  Maya 
sentences  the  Consulunderstood,  we  managed  him  very  well. 
He  cleared  away  the  trees  and  bushes  about  the  walls,  so  that  I 
could  photograph  them,  made  our  fires  night  and  morning,  car- 
ried our  apparatus,  and  made  himself  much  beloved. 

Though  we  passed  several  days  here,  we  had  few  adventures, 
and  one  will  suffice  to  illustrate  how  we  passed  the  time  in  the 
palace  of  the  departed  kings.  In  the  morning  we  went  out  to 
the  aguada,  or  watering-place,  of  the  ancient  city,  a  small  pond 
that  may  originally  have  been  artificial,  but  which  bears  no 
evidence  of  it  now,  being  surrounded  with  sedges  and  water 
plants,  and  with  little  islets  in  it,  harbors  of  refuge  for  numerous 
coots  and  gallinules.  I  shot  one  of  these  latter  birds,  with  long, 
slender  toes,  and  strong  spurs  on  its  wings,  and  also  some  beau- 
tiful yellow-breasted  specimens  of  tyranmis  and  crimson  fly- 
catchers. From  the  aguada,  toward  which  the  surrounding  plain 
sloped  naturally,  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  low  trees,  a  per- 
fect view  was  spread  out  of  the  entire  city,  its  rear  portion  show- 
ing what  a  stupendous  monument  the  giants  of  those  dead  and 
gone  days  had  erected.  More  ponds  were  scattered  about  here, 
some  shaded  by  trees,  and  all  welcome  as  rare  sights  to  greet 
the  eyes  of  one  travelling  in  Eastern  Yucatan. 

In  crossing  a  grassy  pasture  lying  in  the  great  quadrangle 
between  the  buildings,  I  astonished  our  Indian  guide  beyond 
measure  by  shooting  a  king  vulture,  as  it  flew  overhead.  I  was 
attempting  to  creep  upon  it,  when  it  flew;  the  Indian,  who 
thought  then  that  I  had  lost  all  chance  of  shooting  it,  was  rooted 
to  the  spot  when  he  saw  it  fall  hurtling  through  the  air,  and 
strike  the  earth  at  the  base  of  a  prostrate  pillar  of  sculptured 
stone.  He  recovered  himself  in  season  to  bring  me  the  bird, 
but  examined  us  both  attentively ;  and  when  he  later  explained, 
in  his  guttural  language,  the  whole  thing  to  a  group  of  friends, 
they  all  regarded  me  with  increased  respect. 

The  heat  of  noon  was  very  oppressive,  and  we  passed  that 
period    in   the   corridor   of   our    house,   admiring  the   prospect 


UXMAL,    THE    RUINED    CITY. 


79 


spread  before  us  from  the 
open    door.      There    is   one 
feature  about  the  Yucatan  ar- 
chitecture that  has  caused  almost 
as  much  wranghng  among  archae- 
ologists as  the   celebrated   "  calendar 
stone,"   and    that  is    the   "  Maya  arch," 
made  without  a  keystone.     By  producing 
a  photographic   reproduction  of  that  in  the 
southern  end  of  the  eastern  facade,  my  readers 
will  see  at  once  its  shape,  its  symmetry,  and  the 
method  of  formation.     Arches  exist  in  all  the  ruins, 
notably  one  figured  by  Stephens  at  Kabah,  which,  stand- 
ing solitary  in  its  massiveness,  reminded  him  of  the  Arch 
of  Titus.     Another  peculiarity  of  the  sculptor's  art,  also,  is 
the  so-called  "  elephant  trunk,"  shown   in  the  photograph    of 


\ 


80  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

the  northwest  corner  of  the  palace.  Waldeck  gives  it  this 
name,  and  Stephens,  commenting  on  this,  wonders  where  the 
early  architects  obtained  their  pattern,  since  the  elephant  is 
not  indigenous  to  America.  But  the  mastodon  was ;  though 
this  kem  in  support  of  the  theory  of  great  antiquity  is  not 
relished  by  the  seekers  after  a  connecting  link  with  the  Old 
World. 

As  night  came  along,  away  went  our  faithful  Maya,  his  love 
for  us  not  proving  strong  enough  to  induce  him  to  remain  in 
the  ruins  after  dark.  He  was  perfectly  right,  for  he  could 
quote  Indian  tradition  to  the  effect  that  the  builders  and  former 
occupants  return  at  night  and  seize  upon  any  of  their  kind  found 
within  the  castle  walls.  So  the  Consul  and  I  were  left  alone,  to 
brave  the  terrors  of  a  night  in  the  damp  and  lonely  ruin.  Just 
at  sunset  we  climbed  the  immense  pile  known  as  the  "  Name- 
less Mound,"  and,  scrambling  over  loose  stones,  amongst  agave 
and  prickly-pear,  reached  the  top,  a  platform  of  rough  rock, 
with  many  holes  here  and  there,  suggesting  caverns  of  unknown 
depth.  We  found  here  shards  of  pottery,  arched  openings  on 
the  north  side,  and  everywhere  sculptured  stones,  in  evidence 
that  much  labor  had  been  expended  here.  From  it  one  over- 
looks the  entire  city ;  and  we  saw  the  sun  go  down,  gilding  with 
his  last  rays  the  Diviner's  House  on  the  top  of  the  great  pyra- 
mid, and  glancing  over  the  walls  of  the  "  House  of  the  Nuns." 
and  the  Pajaros,  or  "  House  of  Birds."  We  had  seen  him  in  the 
morning,  shining  full  upon  the  eastern  face  of  this  "  hill  of 
sacrifice  " ;  and  now  we  attempted  to  people  anew  its  deserted 
halls  with  some  of  the  vast  multitude  that  are  said  to  have  as- 
sembled before  it  when  a  victim  was  offered  to  their  idols.  Re- 
mains of  their  idol  worship  lie  scattered  about  the  courts  and 
over  the  forest-covered  plains,  showing  that  they  had  a  good 
variety  of  gods ;  but  whether  all  at  once,  or  in  successive  ages, 
who  can  tell? 

We  descended  to  our  quarters  in  the  casa,  and,  sticking  a  can- 
dle up  in  a  bottle  and  lighting  it,  prepared  for  the  night.  Dark- 
ness completely  enveloped  us ;  the  cries  of  the  various  birds, 
such  as  jays  and  ckachalakas,  had  ceased ;  — 


UXMAL,   THE   RUINED    CITY.  8l 

"...  the  night-eyed  insect  tribes 
Waked  to  their  portion  of  the  circling  liours  " ;  — 

the  stars  came  out  and  smiled  down  on  us. 

A  flat  stone,  that  had  once  formed  a  portion  of  the  wall, 
served  as  a  table,  and  stones  for  seats,  that  had  been  carved  a 
thousand  years  ago  with  patient  art.  Soon  the  Consul  left 
me  to  my  enforced  labor  of  skinning  birds,  and  sought  his 
hammock  in  the  inner  room,  whither  I  did  not  follow  him  till 
well  past  midnight,  sitting  up  purposely  to  tempt  the  ghosts 
and  note  the  noises  of  the  night.  They  have  a  charm  for  me, 
these  nocturnal  sounds,  and  many  a  tropic  night  I  have  lain 
awake,  beneath  rustling  palms  and  waving  plantain  leaves,  striv- 
ing to  analyze  the  myriad  voices  in  the  trees.  But  there  were 
few  here ;  man,  beast,  and  bird  seemed  to  have  deserted  the 
dead  city,  and  to  have  left  it  to  silence. 

As  I  finally  rose  to  retire,  a  noise  like  the  distant  roar  of  the 
sea  came  down  to  me,  caused  by  the  hundreds  of  bats  and  vam- 
pires swooping  through  the  resounding  arch  above.  Entering 
the  inner  doorway,  with  the  flaring  candle  shaded  by  my  hand, 
there  stared  me  in  the  face  the  bloody  imprint  of  the  red  hand, 
that  mystery  to  antiquarians,  and  the  yawning  hole,  dug  by 
some  vandal,   to  satisfy  himself  the  walls  were  solid. 

The  rumors  prevailing  among  the  Indians  that  there  were 
tigers  lurking  in  these  ruins,  and  that  the  siiblcvados  sometimes 
extended  their  nocturnal  raids  as  far  as  Uxmal,  induced  us  to 
carry  our  fire-arms  to  bed  with  us,  and  each  had  a  gun  leaning 
against  the  wall  within  reach,  and  a  revolver  hanging  at  the 
head  of  the  hammock. 

It  was  not  long  after  I  had  extinguished  the  candle,  that 
I  was  dreaming  of  Indians,  and  their  natural  concomitants, 
murder  and  bloodshed.  That  red  hand  haunted  me :  an  enor- 
mous savage  stood  by  my  hammock,  with  a  hand  dripping  with 
blood  which  he  was  about  to  imprint  on  my  face  —  when  I 
awoke,  and  found  it  morning. 


IV. 

A   NEW   INDUSTRY   AND   AN    OLD    MONUMENT. 

THE  indigenous  product  of  Yucatan  is  hemp ;  or,  to  begin 
the  subject  correctly,  and  with  a  due  regard  for  botanical 
nomenclature  and  local  appellation,  this  so-called  "Sisal  hemp" 
is  not  hemp  at  all,  but  heiieqiien,  the  Agave  Sisalensis.  It  has 
a  true  fibre,  possessing  such  excellent  qualities  that  the  demand 
for  it  is  greater  than  the  supply.  The  chief  excellence  of  the 
plant  is,  that  it  requires  little  soil  to  grow  upon,  and  springs 
up  everywhere  from  crevices  in  the  great  coral  ledges  that  con- 
stitute the  surface  of  the  peninsula. 

A  great  proportion  of  this  territory  is  covered  with  dense 
scrub,  composed  of  stunted  trees  and  bushes  matted  together 
with  thorny  vines ;  beneath  this  scrub  is  the  rock  that  even  the 
vegetable  mould  of  centuries  but  thinly  covers,  owing  to  the  an- 
nual fires  that  run  over  the  country.  A  portion  of  this  scrub  is 
cleared,  —  that  is,  the  bushes  and  trees  are  cut  down  and  left  to 
dry  for  a  season,  —  and  the  next  year,  if  the  previous  one  has 
been  dry,  fire  is  put  to  this  clearing  and  the  ground  opened  by 
the  laborers,  who  dig  holes  in  the  rocky  soil  and  set  out  the 
plants.  Each  clearing  is  divided  into  niecates,  of  about  twenty- 
four  metres  square,  and  the  plants  are  set  out  about  eight  feet 
apart  each  way.  giving  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  plants  to 
each  mecate.  The  land  is  kept  clean  till  the  plants  are  well 
grown  and  they  arrive  at  maturity,  or  at  a  point  for  profitable 
cutting,  in  from  five  to  seven  years,  when  the  larger  leaves  are 
four  or  five  feet  in  length.  Each  plant  yields  from  twenty  to 
thirty  leaves  annually,  for  a  period  of  from  twelve  to  fifteen, 
eighteen,  or  twenty  years ;  about  a  third  more  in  the  rainy  than 
in  the  dry  season  of  the  year.     It  is  said  to  require  from  six 


A   NEW   INDUSTRY   AND  AN   OLD    MONUMENT.  83 

to  eight  thousand  leaves  to  make  a  bale  weighing  four  hundred 
pounds. 

When  arrived  at  sufficient  size,  the  leaves  are  cut,  commencing 
at  the  bottom,  and  from  the  field  are  carried  to  the  "  scraping- 
machine,"  which  consists  of  a  large  fly-wheel,  with  strong,  blunt 
knives,  transversely  attached  to  its  periphery.  Against  these 
knives,  carried  around  on  the  rapidly  revolving  wheel,  the  leaves 
are  pressed,  one  by  one,  by  means  of  a  curved  lever,  in  such  a 
way  that  the  pulpy  portion  is  scraped  off,  leaving  the  fibre.  The 
men  (always  Indians)  feed  the  machine  with  astonishing  rapid- 
ity, thrusting  in  first  one  end  of  the  leaf,  and  then  the  other,  and 
pressing  it  between  the  knives  and  lever  by  a  motion  of  the  leg. 
Among  the  poor  people  the  leaves  are  scraped  by  hand;  and 
these  poor  laborers  work  mostly  at  night,  from  evening  until 
morning,  because  the  heat  of  day  causes  the  juice  to  ferment, 
and  irritates  the  hands,  while  it  also  spoils  the  fibre.  Four  men 
are  required  to  attend  each  machine,  including  those  who  bring 
the  bundles  of  leaves  and  carry  away  the  refuse  pulp. 

A  good  scraper  will  produce  a  bale  of  dried  fibre  per  day, 
which  comes  from  the  machines  in  long  strips,  looking  like 
green  corn-silk,  and  is  laid  in  bundles,  then  carried  into  the  dry- 
ing yard  and  hung  over  light  poles  placed  on  a  framework 
about  three  feet  from  the  ground.  It  soon  dries,  in  a  hot  day  in 
three  or  four  hours,  when  it  loses  its  greenish  hue  and  appears 
white  and  glossy  ;  it  is  then  baled  by  means  of  hydraulic  presses, 
each  bale  holding  from  350  to  450  pounds.  As  must  be  ap- 
parent from  a  consideration  of  the  ease  with  which  this  hene- 
quen  is  raised,  from  the  fact  that  the  plants  can  be  obtained 
wild  at  little  expense,  and  from  another  important  fact,  that  little 
care  is  necessary  for  the  plant  after  it  once  begins  to  yield,  here 
is  a  culture  that  promises  great  returns  for  little  outlay.  Land 
is  cheap,  and,  when  it  can  be  obtained  at  all,  is  bought  by  the 
square  league.  The  principal  cost  is  in  clearing  it,  and  for 
machinery;  after  that  succeed  only  the  ordinary  expenses  of 
carrying  on  a  farm  ;  —  a  farm  where  there  is  no  laborious  course 
of  preparation  each  year  for  the  planting  of  seed,  no  fatiguing 
hoeing  of  crops,  no  long  season  of  winter  to  provide  for;   only 


84  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

the  cutting  and  harvesting  of  a  spontaneous  product,  by  means 
of  laborers  who  receive  such  ridiculously  small  daily  pay  that 
it  would  not  be  accepted  by  a  farm  hand  in  the  North  for  the 
work  of  an  hour.  Fortunes  are  made  here  in  henequen,  and 
the  fortunate  owners  of  haciendas  live  a  life  of  luxury ;  they 
and  their  children  travel  and  are  educated  in  Europe,  and  spend 
much  of  their  life  abroad.  Each  hacienda  is  in  charge  of  a 
mayor-domo,  or  manager,  and  the  owner  rarely  lives  on  his 
estate,  which  often  covers  a  territory  many  leagues  in  extent. 

The  amount  of  hemp,  or  henequen  fibre,  shipped  from  Pro- 
greso,  the  port  of  Yucatan,  in  i88o,  was,  on  the  authority  of 
the  United  States  Consul,  97,351  bales,  weighing  39,501,725 
pounds,  and  valued  at  $1,750,000!  As  the  raising  of  the 
henequen  was  undertaken  in  times  comparatively  recent,  — 
within,  say,  twenty  years,  —  this  amount  is  a  very  good  showing. 
This  was  shipped  in  fifty-three  steamers  and  thirty-five  sailing- 
vessels,  and,  of  the  total  amount,  85,000  bales  were  sent  to  the 
United  States.  This  industry  is  rapidly  growing,  and  there  is  an 
opportunity  here  for  capitalists,  it  would  seem,  to  spend  large 
sums.  From  the  henequen  fibre  are  manufactured  numberless 
articles,  for  the  plant  has  almost  as  many  uses  as  the  palm ;  but 
not  quite  so  many  as  its  sister  plant  of  Mexico,  the  maguey. 

In  a  little  suburb  of  Merida,  called  Miraflores,  is  a  factory 
for  the  manufacture  of  cordage,  coarse  cloth,  and  cables,  from 
the  raw  fibre,  which  the  proprietors  buy  from  the  Indians  and 
the  haciendas.  Its  machinery  is  very  rapid  and  good,  and  was 
made  in  Boston  some  fifteen  years  ago.  The  machines  are 
tended  by  Mestiza  girls,  who  are  very  neat  at  their  work,  going 
about  quietly  and  without  even  singing  or  whistling.  They  are 
said  to  be  very  careful  and  faithful,  and  they  are  very  modest; 
and  a  pretty  picture  they  present,  moving  about  in  their  white 
skirts  among  the  flying  spindles  and  toothed  bands,  hardly 
looking  up  from  their  labor. 

The  Indian  makes  from  the  agave  fibre  many  most  neces- 
sary articles,  —  bags  in  which  to  carry  packages,  saddle-cloths, 
sandals,  ropes,  and  twine;  if  he  wants  any  of  the  last,  he 
goes  into   the  forest  for  a  wild  plant,  beats  out  the  filament, 


A    NEW    INDUSTRY    AND   AN   OLD   MONUMENT. 


85 


twists  it  in  a  crude  but  satisfactory  way,  and  is  supplied.  The 
greatest  of  all  uses  to  which  this  filament  can  be  applied  is 
the  manufacture  of  hammocks.  All  Yucatan  sleeps  in  a  ham- 
mock,—  that  is,  every  individual  Yucateco  and  Yucateca  sleeps 
in  his  or  her  individual  hammock.  In  many  towns  in  the  State 
a  bed  is  unknown.     The  most  respectable,  as  well  as  the  most 


ARCH   OF   AKABNA. 


lowly  there,  are  born,  live,  and  die  in  a  hammock.  They  pass  a 
great  portion  of  their  waking  as  well  as  sleeping  hours  in  them. 
In  their  manufacture,  then,  the  natives  excel,  and  great  numbers 
are  made  and  shipped  to  New  York.  It  is  only  the  coarser 
variety  that  reaches  the  States,  for  the  best  ones  command  here 
higher  prices  than  they  could  bring  in  New  York,  and  rarely 


S6  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

leave  the  country.  From  ten  to  fifteen  dollars  is  the  price  for 
a  good  woven  hemp  hammock,  and  some  bring  even  twenty-five 
and  thirty  dollars.  They  are  very  durable,  and  endure  years  of 
wear;  there  is  as  much  difference,  too,  in  hammocks  as  in  beds. 
Yucatan  has  other  products  than  hemp,  but  that  is  king. 
Sugar  is  made  in  the  eastern  portions  in  a  limited  way,  but,  as 
the  best  sugar  lands  are  in  the  south,  and  all  in  possession  of 
Indians  supposed  to  be  wild,  but  little  is  done  in  this  direction. 
Hardly  enough  vegetables  are  raised  to  supply  the  people,  and 
cotton  only  in  small  quantities.  Regarding  the  culture  of  cot- 
ton, I  should  like  to  introduce  something  that  I  found  in  an  old 
letter-book  of  the  consulate,  written  by  a  former  acting  native 
consul  in  answer  to  inquiries  from  Washington. 

"  The  culture  of  cotton  is  very  little  here,  and  is  cultivated  only  on  the 
southern  part  of  this  city  and  in  a  very  small  quantity,  and  grows  at  the 
extent  of  twelve  feet.  No  other  insect  enemies  of  the  cotton  plant  has 
been  found  but  its  worm,  and  the  worm  is  exactly  as  mentioned  on 
the  letter,  that  is,  a  great  worm  with  white  lines  and  black  dots.  Cotton 
worm  is  always  on  the  cotton  leaf,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  this  worm 
kills  the  plant.  He  does  not  touch  the  accorn  of  the  cotton,  as  he 
remains  always  on  the  leaf.  The  worm  has  always  been  in  the  country, 
as  it  belongs  to  the  plant.  Cotton  has  been  growing  here  for  more  than 
twenty  years,  and  it  grows  wild,  but  it  is  inferior  to  the  plant  cultivated. 
The  prevailing  direction  of  winds,  during  the  months  of  March,  April, 
June,  and  July,  are  generally  breeze  and  southeast.  Any  more  informa- 
tion that  I  may  have  respecting  the  cotton  worm  and  the  insect  enemy 
of  the  plant  I  will  inform  immediately." 

It  has  been  my  blessed  privilege  to  inspect  several  such  letter- 
books  in  various  consulates  in  the  south,  and  the  amount  of 
information  contained  in  them  is  not  unfrequently  equalled  by 
their  rare  hum.or,  especially  if  the  product  of  alien  repre- 
sentatives. 

One  morning  early  we  hired  a  coc/ie  and  set  out  to  visit  the 
estate  of  Don  Alvaro  Peon,  who  had  invited  us  to  inspect  his 
hemp  plantation,  and  some  remarkable  ruins  situated  there. 
It  was  moonlight  when  we  started,  but  as  we  passed  the   Ca//e 


A   NEW    INDUSTRY   AND   AN   OLD   MONUMENT. 


87 


del  Elefante,  the  "  Corner  of  the  Dead  Duck,"  and  the  "  Street  of 
the  Monkey,"  pale  Luna  was  swallowed  up  in  the  stronger  light 
of  day.     Through  the  grated  windows,  then  being  thrown  open, 
we  got  glimpses 
of  pretty,  brown- 
skinned  girls, 
with   black  hair 
and    dark    eyes, 
and    loose-hung 
uipils,  just  leav- 
ing   their    ham- 
mocks. 

On  the  bor- 
ders of  the  city 
we  encountered 
many  mule 
teams,  with 
loads  of  hemp, 
the  mules  tired 
and  the  drivers 
sleepy.  Some  of 
them  had  come 
from  Valladolid, 
one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  dis- 
tant. There  were 
also  groups  of 
Indians  with 
great  heaps  of 
grass  on  their 
backs,  and  huge 
bundles    of    ra- 

mon,  or  leaves  of  trees  used  for  forage,  and  girls  and  women 
bearing  heavy  loads  on  their  shoulders  supported  by  bands 
across  their  foreheads.  They,  too,  were  tired,  some  of  them 
having  travelled  all  night.  At  a  distance,  the  glowing  skins  of 
these  half-naked  Indians  appeared  brick-red  in  the  sun. 


GRASS-SELLER. 


88  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

At  noon  we  had  reached  the  little  village  of  Tixpenal,  where 
there  are  the  ruins  of  a  large  church  surrounded  by  numerous 
thatched  huts.  The  destruction  of  this  church  was  due  to  one 
of  the  governors  of  Yucatan,  who  shot  at  a  vulture  on  the  roof 
and  lighted  the  thatch,  the  building  being  destroyed,  except 
its  massive  walls ;  these  were  black  with  buzzards.  With  be- 
coming regard  for  the  wants  of  the  people,  the  governor  prom- 
ised to  build  another  church,  —  but  he  never  did  it.  As  the 
sun  grows  hot,  the  vultures,  which  have  been  busy  about  the 
streets  and  back  yards,  and  roosting  on  the  walls  and  roofs,  are 
seen  sailing  in  circles  high  in  air,  one  around  the  other.  Be- 
tween their  thatched  huts  and  their  outbuildings,  the  Indians 
construct  connecting  arbors,  over  which  grows  a  kind  of  gourd, 
the  vine  covering  them  with  a  thick  matting,  wholly  impervious 
to  the  sun.  So  these  people  live  in  cool  shade,  walking  about 
in  loose  cotton  garments,  with  bare  feet  and  legs,  and  with  san- 
dals on,  —  sandals  kept  in  place  by  a  line  between  the  great  toe 
and  the  next,  and  wound  about  the  leg  above  the  ankle. 

We  reached  San  Antonio  late  in  the  afternoon,  and  were  re- 
ceived in  a  princely  manner  by  Don  Alvaro  Peon,  the  courteous 
proprietor.  This  gentleman,  a  splendid  specimen  of  manhood, 
cultured  and  travelled,  is  the  present  representative  of  an  an- 
cient and  distinguished  family,  which  estimates  its  possessions 
by  hundreds  of  square  leagues.  In  going  to  Uxmal,  I  had 
ridden  all  day,  a  distance  of  nearly  fifty  miles,  over  territory 
once  owned  by  his  father.  This  estate  of  San  Antonio  was 
eleven  leagues  square,  and  contained  twelve  hundred  acres 
planted  with  henequen,  and  many  more  in  process  of  subjection. 
At  about  seven,  in  the  cool  of  the  next  morning,  we  left  the 
hacienda  for  the  farther  one  owned  by  him,  Ake,  our  objective 
point.  We  rode  in  the  coach  the  Empress  Carlotta  used  when 
in  Yucatan.  Don  Alvaro  was  her  last  escort  when  she  left  Mex- 
ico, and  cherishes  the  memory  of  her  visit  as  one  of  the  bright- 
est episodes  of  his  life. 

Driving  through  pleasant  lanes,  we  emerged  upon  the  King's 
Road  —  el  camino  real — at  the  town  of  Tixkokob.  Here  are 
made    all   the   cheap  hammocks  that  are    sent  to    the    United 


A   NEW   INDUSTRY   AND   AN   OLD   MONUMENT.  89 

States ;  every  hut  we  passed  had  one  stretched  upon  a  frame, 
with  a  woman  engaged  upon  it  with  deft  fingers.  Ake,  which 
we  were  then  approaching,  was  the  last  place  visited  by 
Stephens,  in  1842,  in  his  famous  exploration,  during  which  he 
found  forty-four  ruined  cities  to  describe.  As  he  did  not  always 
subordinate  present  comfort  to  archaeological  requirements,  he 
left  it  with  a  casual  glance,  and  a  remark  upon  the  vastness  of 
the  remains.  It  remained  for  a  later  explorer  to  describe  them 
accurately,  and  inquire  into  their  meaning. 

After  we  had  despatched  a  substantial  breakfast,  in  a  small 
building  used  for  the  entertainment  of  visitors,  Don  Alvaro  con- 
ducted us  to  the  great  mound,  the  wonder  of  all  who  have  be- 
held it.  It  measures,  according  to  Stephens,  225  by  50  feet, 
upon  the  platform,  which  supports  thirty-six  shafts,  or  columns, 
from  fourteen  to  sixteen  feet  high.  These  are  approached  by 
an  immense  range  of  steps,  137  feet  long,  each  step  being  four 
feet  five  inches  wide  by  one  foot  five  inches  high.  Pitching 
my  camera  in  a  prickly  field  of  hemp,  I  took  a  general  view 
of  the  entire  platform  with  all  its  pillars,  and  then,  approach- 
ing nearer,  a  single  view  of  the  immense  columns,  showing 
their  structure. 

Now,  this  great  platform  and  these  Titanic  columns,  what  is 
their  meaning?  Ake,  say  the  historians,  was  inhabited  by  In- 
dians at  the  time  of  its  discovery.  A  great  battle  was  fought 
here,  between  the  Spaniards  under  Don  Francisco  Montejo  and 
the  Mayas,  equally  sanguinary  with  that  decisive  one  on  the 
site  of  Merida,  a  little  later.  The  early  chroniclers  also  throw 
light  upon  these  columns ;  they  were  intended,  not  as  supports 
for  the  roof  of  a  temple,  not  as  altars  for  sacred  fires,  but 
to  serve  as  a  record  of  the  age  of  the  race  !  They  were  called 
kaUines  (epochs),  says  Cogolludo,  and  each  stone  represents  a 
period  of  twenty  years.  Every  five  years,  a  small  stone  was 
placed  on  each  corner  of  the  uppermost  rock,  beginning  at  the 
eastern  side  and  ending  at  the  southern.  When  the  final  cap- 
ping-stone  was  added,  there  was  great  festivity  and  rejoicing. 
By  referring  to  the  photographs  here  reproduced,  the  reader  will 
note  the  system   of  construction,  exactly  as  described   by  the 


90 


TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 


Spanish  writers.  But  instead  of  there  being  eight  great  stones 
in  every  cohimn,  as  they  say,  there  are  in  some  cases  nine,  and 
even  ten.  This,  however,  is  of  httle  moment ;  there  may  have 
been  ten  in  every  column, —  probably  were,  — the  topmost  one 
of  which  may  have  fallen  off.  Thus  the  column  would  be  fin- 
ished when  an  even  two  hundred  years  had  swung  its  round, 
and  then  left  to  stand  forever,  as  a  monument  to  the  people  who 
had  erected  it  and  as  an  epoch  in  the  world's  great  cycle. 


GENERAL   VIEW    OF   AKE. 


Thirty-six  columns, 
each  representing  i6o 
or  200  years,  as  the  case 
may  be,  carry  their 
antiquity  back  to  a 
very  early  date  indeed. 
"  There  was,"  says  a  learned  writer,  "  an  undeniable  lapse  of 
5,760  years  from  the  time  the  first  stone  was  placed  on  the 
platform  until  the  place  was  abandoned ;  and  we  know  that  this 
very  town  of  Ake  was  still  inhabited  at  the  time  of  the  Spanish 
conquest."     Whether  this  be  so,  or,  as  another  erudite  antiqua- 


A   NEW   INDUSTRY   AND   AN   OLD   MONUMENT.  91 

rian  queries,  whether  "  they  may  have  served  as  symboHcal  his- 
tory, set  up  as  memorials  of  past  antiquity,"  they  are  the  work 
of  giants,  —  remains  Cyclopean.  Immense  rocks,  that  it  would 
take  many  men  to  lift,  ranged  pile  on  pile,  by  some  deluded  yet 
painstaking  people;  yet  all  this  work,  this  mighty  labor,  has 
gone  for  naught ! 

By  climbing  to  the  top  of  one  of  the  columns,  one  can  look 
over  the  extensive  plain  for  twenty  miles ;  the  little  towns  in 
the  distance  betokened  by  trees  of  darker  green  and  white  walls, 
mounds  dotting  the  landscape  in  every  direction,  and  the  nearer 
pastures  overgrown  with  prickly  shrubs.  Close  by  the  house, 
built  out  of  the  ruins  of  a  former  one,  are  two  mounds,  one 
with  immense  flat  stones  as  steps,  known  as  the  "  House  of  the 
Priest."  The  ground  is  cleared  immediately  about  the  house, 
and  a  flower  garden  blossoms  among  dismantled  walls,  while  a 
hemp  machine  performs  its  duty  close  under  the  shadow  of  the 
great  katunes.  Within  the  circle  of  older  ruins  are  the  remains 
of  a  Spanish  battery,  built,  probably,  after  the  bloody  fight  of 
Ake.  As  this  place  is  used  only  as  a  rancJio,  or  cattle  farm,  no 
improvements  are  going  on,  and  it  is  inhabited  only  by  a  few 
Indians  and  the  mayor-domo. 

West  of  the  great  platform  are  other  mounds,  one  of  which 
contains  a  stone  structure  called  Akabnd,  or  dark  house.  The 
mound  was  evidently  terraced,  like  the  others,  many  a  great 
block  remaining  in  situ.  It  is  now  an  undistinguishable 
mass  of  rocks,  the  central  portion  having  fallen  in,  and  is  cov- 
ered with  cactus,  agave,  and  wild  wood.  We  descended  into 
one  of  the  rooms  and  started  up  a  vulture,  which  crawled 
into  one  of  the  many  holes  and  hissed  at  us,  at  the  same 
time  emitting  a  fetid  odor.  This  apartment  evidently  led  into 
another,  and  the  Consul  bravely  explored  the  various  dark 
retreats,  but  without  succeeding  in  finding  anything  of  value. 
Here  was  also  the  peculiar  Maya  arch,  of  ruder  form  than  that 
of  Uxmal,  more  nearly  approaching  the  arch  of  Palenque,  —  the 
inner  and  overlapping  stones  not  being  dressed  or  bevelled ;  be- 
sides, there  was  a  further  departure,  in  alternate  layers  of  stone 
and  mortar,  but  with  a  cap,  as  in  Uxmal,  instead  of  a  keystone. 


92 


TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 


In  wandering  through  the  pastures,  we  stumbled  into  a  hole 
and  were  nearly  precipitated  into  a  yawning  chasm,  which  fur- 
ther investigation  showed  to  lead  into  a  cmotc  about  forty  feet 
deep  and  ninety  broad,  with  a  little  water  in  it.  This  was 
about  midday,  and  the  air  outside  was  intensely  hot,  though  in 
this  cavern  it  was  very  cool  and  refreshing.    We  found  here  eight 


THE   GREAT    KATUNES. 


girls  and  women,  seated  on  the  rocks  beside  the  water,  braiding 
hemp.  There  was  one  extremely  attractive,  with  light  com- 
plexion and  an  intelligent  face.  They  were  not  a  whit  curious, 
as  negroes  or  white  people  would  have  been,  but  took  our 
advent  quietly,  without  a  laugh  or  questioning  glance.  Indeed, 
these  Mayas  bear  evidence  by  their  deportment  that  they  have 
descended  from  a  polite  and  cultured  race.     They  came  here 


A   NEW   INDUSTRY   AND   AN   OLD   MONUMENT.  93 

to  this  damp  cavern  to  braid  their  hemp,  for  use  in  simple 
articles  of  domestic  manufacture,  as  the  moist  air  facilitates  the 
process. 

We  sat  awhile  in  this  strange  reception  hall,  while  our 
man  went  for  some  coco  nuts,  with  the  sweet  water  of  which 
we  slaked  our  thirst.  A  great  number  of  lizards  and  iguanas 
were  running  about  the  ledges,  and  I  shot  several  that  seemed 
new  to  me.  One  was  a  hideous  reptile  of  the  saurian  type,  with 
twelve  callosities  on  his  legs,  each  one  of  which,  our  Indian  said, 
meant  a  year.  Another,  which  I  also  shot  with  my  pistol,  had 
a  pointed  tail,  and  the  Maya  was  much  excited  when  I  went 
to  pick  it  up  from  the  rock  where  it  was  still  struggling,  saying 
that  it  would  throw  its  tail  at  me  as  it  expired,  inflicting  a 
poisonous  wound.  There  was,  he  said,  another  lizard  that 
would  bite  your  shadow,  as  you  crossed  its  path,  causing  you 
terrible  pains  in  the  head  thereby.  These  Indians  are  full  of 
superstitions,  believing  in  witchcraft,  in  avenging  spirits,  and  in 
ghosts,  and  endowing  every  kind  of  creeping  thing  with  some 
supernatural  attribute. 

As  the  sun's  rays  glanced  horizontally  along  the  level  fields, 
the  mules  were  harnessed,  and  we  returned  to  San  Antonio, 
leaving  behind  us  those  grand,  suggestive,  yet  mute  memorials 
of  a  departed  people;  the  oldest  monuments  —  that  is,  of  In- 
dians who  had  approached  civilization  —  that  this  new  country 
can  exhibit ;  the  oldest,  perhaps,  in  America. 


V. 

MAYAPAN,   THE   ANCIENT   EMPIRE. 

IN  bringing  to  a  close  these  desultory  remarks  upon  the  ruins 
of  Yucatan,  I  am  reminded  that  there  yet  remain  two  of 
the  most  important  groups,  Mayapan  and  Chichen-Itza,  without 
which  the  hundred-mile  radius  around  Merida  would  be  incom- 
plete. Mayapan,  about  thirty  miles  south  of  Merida,  was  the 
seat  of  the  ancient  Maya  empire,  and  the  city  was  called  El 
Pendon  de  los  Mayas  —  the  banner  city  of  the  country  —  by  the 
early  Spanish  writers  on  Yucatan.  Here,  in  this  ancient  city, 
among  the  ruins  of  palaces  once  occupied  by  native  kings,  it 
would  seem  most  fitting  that  we  should  review,  though  hastily, 
the  aboriginal  history  of  Yucatan,  as  it  has  been  handed  down 
to  us  According  to  the  Maya  genesis,  as  interpreted  by  Span- 
ish priests  and  monks,  the  Creator  formed  the  first  man  of  a 
handful  oi sacate  (or  grass)  and  earth;  from  the  latter  came  his 
flesh  and  bones,  and  from  the  grass  his  skin  and  his  comely 
appearance.  Dwarfs  and  giants  were  the  first  people  of  this 
portion  of  the  country,  and  the  former,  as  usual,  always  got  the 
better  of  the  latter. 

The  most  ancient  traditions  seem  to  point  to  two  distinct  im- 
migrations into  the  peninsula;  but  it  is  usually  conceded  that 
there  existed,  in  that  portion  of  Central  America  where  Yucatan, 
Guatemala,  and  Southern  Mexico  come  together,  a  great  and 
potent  theocratic  empire.  This  was  in  ages  past.  Successive 
immigrations,  from  the  north  and  from  the  south,  have  swept 
over  it,  until  all  distinctive  race  individuality  of  the  people  who 
lived  there  has  been  obliterated.  The  capital  city  of  this  empire 
was  Xibalba  {Hibalba),  thought  to  be  the  Palenque  of  the  pres- 
ent day.  The  tribes  coming  down  from  the  north,  the  Nahuatls, 
built  another  city,  which  they  called  Tula,  or  Tulha,  near  the 


MAYAPAN,   THE   ANCIENT   EMPIRE.  95 

present  town  of  Ocosingo,  in  Chiapas.  And  if  we  may  place 
credence  in  that  perhaps  mythical  "sacred  book"  of  the  Quiches 
called  the  Ah-Tza,  the  Itzaes  {Ah  Tzaes),  present  inhabitants 
of  Peten,  are  lineal  descendants  of  the  dwellers  in  Xibalba. 
Although  traces  of  three  distinct  immigrations  into  Yucatan  are 
evident,  —  the  Itzaes,  Mayas,  and  Caribs,  —  yet  they  all  spoke 
one  tongue,  the  Maya,  at  the  coming  of  the  Spaniards.  The 
Itzaes  founded  cities  in  the  northeastern  portion  of  the  penin- 
sula, found  in  ruins  to-day :  Chichen-Itza,  Itzamel,  and  T'ho,  the 
site  of  the  last  occupied  by  the  capital  city  of  Merida. 

In  the  fifth  and  sixth  centuries  the  Mayas  came,  followed  by 
the  Tutul  Xius.  The  former  founded  Mayapan,  and  the  latter 
settled  themselves  in  the  region  of  which  Uxmal  is  the  centre. 
In  the  strifes  that  ensued  between  the  Itzaes  and  Mayas,  the 
latter  attained  to  prominence  and  ruled  the  country,  while  the 
former  retired  to  Chichen.  The  head  of  the  ruling  family  was 
one  Cocom,  from  whom  descended  the  princes  of  Mayapan.  The 
increasing  importance  of  the  Tutul  Xius  so  alarmed  the  Maya 
ruler  that  he  imported  troops  from  Tabasco  ;  but  a  century 
later  the  dreaded  residents  of  Uxmal  marched  upon  Mayapan, 
and,  after  a  long  and  bloody  struggle,  razed  it  to  the  ground. 
About  this  time  the  Itzaes,  who  seem  to  have  been  of  a  more 
peaceful  nature,  abandoned  their  city  of  Chichen  and  buried 
themselves  in  the  vast  forests  of  Guatemala.  We  shall  meet 
with  them  again.  These  events  happened  in  the  thirteenth  and 
fourteenth  centuries.  In  1446,  it  is  chronicled.  King  Cocom  of 
Mayapan,  with  all  his  sons  save  one,  was  murdered  by  his  nobles. 
Less  than  a  century  later  the  Spaniards  became  lords  of  the 
peninsula,  and  found  Mayapan  in  ruins.  It  had  been  destroyed 
by  the  murderers  of  Cocom.  Stephens,  who  visited  Yucatan  forty 
years  ago,  found  among  the  ruins  a  great  circular  mound,  and 
some  sculptured  stones,  but  of  their  origin  and  significance  he 
was  ignorant.  It  was  left  for  another  explorer.  Dr.  Augustus 
Le  Plongeon,  to  complete  the  work  of  investigation.  From  his 
latest  report  to  the  American  Antiquarian  Society,  —  yet  in 
manuscript  when  this  was  written,  — the  following  details  of  his 
discoveries  at  Mayapan  are  gathered. 


96  '  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

Among  the  ruins  was  found  a  stone,  one  of  the  two  above 
mentioned,  inscribed  with  characters.  Of  this  a  cast  was  taken, 
and  sent  to  New  York.  The  stone  was  one  metre  sixty-two 
centimetres  high,  and  twenty-six  centimetres  wide.  The  inscrip- 
tion on  it  represents  the  king,  Cocom,  who  was  tributary  to 
Chaacmol,  king  of  Chichen-Itza,  and  whose  portrait,  full-length, 
is  on  the  castle  wall  of  Chichen.     Dr.  Le  Plongeon  writes  :  — 

"  Next  we  will  meet  him  in  the  reception-room  of  Queen  Kinich- 
Kakmo,  the  wife  and  sister  of  the  great  King  Chaacmol.  That  king, 
Cocom,  is  the  personage  represented  on  the  anta  of  the  castle,  in  the 
bas-reliefs  of  the  Queen's  Chamber,  at  Chichen,  and  on  the  slab  found  by 
the  Abb^  Brasseur  de  Bourbourg,  in  Mayapan.  One  has  only  to  look 
at  his  unique,  unmistakable  nose,  his  short  stature,  and  towering  hat,  to 
become  satisfied  of  the  fact  of  his  identity.  And  then  his  name,  —  it  is 
symbolized  by  a  little  yellow  flower,  in  some  cases  closed,  in  others  open. 
In  the  Maya  dictionary,  cocom  is  a  plant  with  yellow  flowers,  from  the 
leaves  of  which,  during  the  feast  of  Saint  John,  people  make  a  kind  of 
cigar,  Cocom  was  the  name  of  an  ancient  Maya  dynasty,  and  is  still 
preserved  as  an  Indian  family  name  among  the  natives  of  Yucatan.  By 
the  number  of  feathers  in  the  cap  of  the  king  is  indicated  his  exalted 
rank.  The  man  before  him  holds  a  scroll,  —  and  this  is  proven  by 
Landa,  that  they  had  scrolls,  written  on  large  leaves,  folded  and  enclosed 
between  two  boards. 

When  any  of  the  ancient  family  of  Cocom  died,  the  principal  lords 
cut  off  their  heads  and  cooked  them,  in  order  to  clean  the  meat  from 
the  bones,  after  which  they  sawed  off  the  hind  part  of  the  skull,  preserv- 
ing the  front  with  its  jaws  and  teeth.  They  then  replaced  the  flesh  on 
the  half-skull  with  a  certain  putty,  giving  them  the  same  appearance  they 
had  when  alive  ;  they  then  placed  them  among  their  cinerary  statues, 
which  they  had  with  their  idols  in  their  oratorios,  and  looked  upon  them 
with  great  reverence  and  love." 

On  the  smaller  slab  the  Doctor  found,  he  says,  inscriptions 
that  his  knowledge  of  the  Maya  tongue  enabled  him  to  translate, 
which  were  intended  for  the  God  of  Fire,  represented  among  the 
Mayas  by  the  same  hieroglyph  that  the  Egyptians  used  for  the 
Sun  God,  and  by  the  emblems  of  one  of  the  principal  gods  of 
the  Assyrians.     On  the  "  Gnomon  Mound  "  of  Mayapan  there 


MAYAPAN,   THE   ANCIENT   EMPIRE.  97 

were  found  two  steles,  situated  about  one  hundred  metres  from 
the  southwest  corner  of  the  principal  pyramid  (named  anciently 
Kukulcan),  the  first  of  the  kind  seen  during  a  long  and  careful 


"  HIEROGLYPH    OF    THE    GOD   OF   FIRE." 

exploration  of  the  ruined  cities   of  Yucatan.      Of  them  Dr.  Le 
Plongeon  says :  — 

"  Following  the  detours  of  an  obscure  trail,  we  at  last  reached  the  foot 
of  a  small  mound,  eight  metres  high,  eleven  metres  fifty  centimetres  wide 
at  the  base.  The  platform  (on  top),  four  metres  seventy  centimetres  on 
the  north  and  south  sides  by  three  metres  on  the  east  and  west,  sustained 
two  perpendicular  stelae,  forty-five  centimetres  in  diameter  and  one 
metre  high  from  the  floor,  which  once  was  perfectly  level  and  paved  with 
beautifully  hewn  slabs  of  stone.  To-day  it  is  covered  with  ten  centimetres 
of  loam,  the  product  of  three  centuries  and  a  half  of  deposition.  The 
distance  between  the  centres  of  the  stelae  is  one  metre  seventy  centi- 
metres, their  orientation  as  perfect  as  it  could  be  done  to-day  with  our 
improved  instruments." 

By  careful  measurements,  Dr.  Le  Plongeon  arrived  at  the 
conclusion  that  the  ancient  Mayas  correctly  calculated  the  true 
declination  of  the  sun ;  and  he  adds  that  the  Maya  astronomers 
divided  their  astronomical  year  into  twelve  months  of  thirty  days 


98  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

each,  to  which  they  added  the  five  days  when  they  said  the  sun 
was  resting.  "  Here  again  we  find  another  point  of  contact  with 
the  Egyptians  and  the  Chaldeans."  Of  course,  says  the  Doctor, 
by  noticing  the  length  of  the  shadows  projected  by  the  stelae  on 
the  smooth  floor  of  the  platform,  they  could  know  the  hour  of 
the  day;  at  night  —  as  the  Indians  do  even  to-day  —  they  could 
tell  the  time  quite  accurately  by  observing  the  courses  of  the 
stars.  By  placing  a  style,  or  any  narrow  object,  on  the  top  of 
the  columns  so  as  to  rest  on  the  centres,  and  noticing  when  its 
shadow  fell  perpendicularly  on  the  platform,  and  covered  exactly 
the  line  they  had  traced  for  that  purpose  between  the  stelae, 
they  knew  when  the  sun  passed  their  zenith,  which  phenomenon 
occurs  twice  every  year,  in  March  and  July. 

The  Doctor  remarks  that  he  has  adopted  the  use  of  the  metric 
standard  of  linear  measure  as  much  from  necessity  as  from 
choice,  and  from  "  the  strange  discovery  that  the  metre  is  the 
only  measure  of  dimension  which  agrees  with  that  adopted 
by  these  most  ancient  artists  and  architects."  The  explorer 
continues :  — 

"  We  cannot  suppose  that  the  gnoinon  was  built  at  random  ;  that  the 
diameter  of  the  state  and  the  distance  they  are  placed  from  one  another 

are  wholly  fortuitous Judging  of  past  humanity  by  the  present,  we 

must  of  necessity  agree  that  these  diameters  and  this  distance  of  the  cen- 
tres are  the  result  of  accurate  calculations  and  knowledge I  have 

taken  for  granted  that  they  knew  when  the  sun  had  reached  the  tropics, 
and  therefore  its  greatest  declination, —  23°  27',  —  because  the  days  that 
the  declination  does  not  vary  they  called  by  a  name  signifying,  according 
to  Pio  Perez,'  the  bed  or  place  where  the  sun  rests. 

"  To  sum  up  :  These  builders  seem  to  have  taken  as  bases  for  their 
calculation  the  latitude  of  the  place  and  the  declination  of  the  sun  when 
at  his  resting-place,  —  as  they  called  the  solstitial  points.  That  this 
manner  of  computing  time  was  used  by  the  primiti\e  inhabitants  of  the 
great  metropolis,  ChichenTtza,  or  by  those  who  dwelt  in  it  when  at 
the  height  of  its  splendor,  when  scholars  flocked  from  all  parts  of  the 
world  to  consult  its  wise  men,  is  more  than  at  present  we  can  positively 
know 

1  "Maya  Chronology,"  by  Senor  Don  Juan  Pio  Perez,  first  published  in  the 
Appendix  to  Stephens's  "  Incidents  of  Travel  in  Yucatan." 


MAYAPAN,   THE   ANCIENT   EMPIRE.  lOI 

"  We  know  that  in  the  most  remote  times  they  represented  the  God- 
head under  the  symbol  of  the  mastodon-head.  Notwithstanding  their 
great  respect  for  the  memory  of  their  ancestors,  so  strongly  inculcated 
that  even  to-day  they  would  not  fail  to  prepare  the  hanal  pixan  —  the 
food  of  the  souls  —  and  offer  it  in  peculiar  places  on  All-Saints'  day,  in 
after  ages  this  emblem  —  the  mastodon-head  —  became  replaced  by  that 
of  the  winged  serpent,  Kukulcan,  or  Ahi,  even  in  the  city  of  the  holy 
and  wise  men,  the  Itzaes ;  whilst  in  Uxmal  and  other  places,  where  in 
time  the  Nahautl  religion  prevailed,  the  phallic  emblems  were  coupled 
with  those  of  the  sun,  the  fire,  and  the  mastodon-head. 

"  The  monuments  of  these  people  also  show  the  changes  which  have 
taken  place  in  the  architectural  taste  in  consequence  of  alteration  in  the 
customs  and  in  the  ideas  and  in  the  mode  of  life  of  the  people,  caused 
perhaps  by  immigrations  and  invasions,  —  probably  by  commercial  inter- 
course and  frequent  communication  by  sea  and  land  with  the  neighboring 
nations.  The  ornamentation  of  the  edifices  also  tells  us  of  the  progress 
of  the  artists  in  drawing  and  sculpture. 

"  The  great  mound  of  Mayapan,  which  reveals  such  perfect  mathe- 
matical symmetry  in  all  its  parts,  shows  that  the  Maya  architects  were  as 
well  acquainted  with  the  rules  of  trigonometry  as  their  friends  the  astron- 
omers. It  will  call  to  mind  that  oldest  structure  of  the  plains  of  Chaldea, 
—  the  graduated  towers  so  characteristic  of  Babylonia,  of  which  the 
oldest  type  known  in  history  is  the  tower  of  Babel,  —  and  on  its  top 
the  priests  of  the  Mayas,  as  the  Magi,  elevated  above  the  mists  of  the 
plain  below,  could  track  through  the  cloudless  sky  the  movements  of 
the  stars ;  instead  of  cutting  out  there  the  hearts  of  human  victims,  as 
a  celebrated  author  suggests 

"  This  mound,  now  very  dilapidated,  is  an  oblong,  truncated  pyramid, 
measuring  on  the  north  and  west  sides  at  the  base  thirty- two  metres, 
and  fourteen  metres  on  top ;  on  the  east  and  west  sides  at  the  base 
twenty-seven  metres,  and  ten  metres  on  top.  On  the  four  faces  stairways 
are  cut  of  sixty  steps,  each  twenty-five  centimetres  high ;  it  appears  as 
if  composed  of  seven  superposed  platforms,  all  of  the  same  height,  —  one 
metre  seventy  centimetres,  —  each  one  being  smaller  than  the  one  imme- 
diately below.  Throughout  Yucatan  seven  seems  to  have  been  the  mystic 
number,  as  among  other  ancient  nations.  In  the  plains  of  Babylon  there 
were  no  stones,  and  the  builders  of  the  '  temple  of  the  seven  lights  '  made 
the  core  of  the  structure  with  sun-dried  clay,  and  the  facings  with  hard- 
burnt  bricks.     In  Yucatan,  where  there  is  no  clay,  but  stones,  the  core 


I02  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

is  found  of  loose  stones  with  blocks  of  the  same  material  carefully  hewn 
for  the  facing.  The  mode  of  building,  however,  was  identical  among 
the  Mayas  and  the  Chaldeans.  Again,  there  is  shown  an  identity  of  ideas 
in  the  artists  who  decorated  the  walls  at  Chichen-Itza  and  Babylon." 

In  his  essay  on  the  language  of  the  Mayas,  Dr.  Le  Plongeon 
stated  that  they  employed  many  words  and  names  common  to 
all,  or  nearly  all,  the  ancient  languages  of  which  we  have  knowl- 
edge ;  that  they  used  letters  and  characters  belonging  to  the 
most  ancient  Chaldaic  alphabet;  and  their  mode  of  writing,  in 
squares,  was  similar  to  that  of  the  Babylonians.     He  adds :  — 

"  So  also  we  see  that  their  architecture  partakes  of  that  of  the  Egyp- 
tians and  the  Babylonians,  besides  having  a  style  that  belongs  to  none  of 
these  ancient  nations.  That  they  had  'perpendicular'  pyramids,  with 
their  faces  to  the  cardinal  points,  like  the  Egyptians,  the  mound  of  Maya- 
pan  proves.  But  the  great  mound  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the 
principal  square  of  Izamal,  on  the  top  of  which  used  to  be  a  temple 
dedicated  to  Kinich-Kakmo,  the  queen  of  Chichen,  is  an  oblique  pyra- 
mid, the  very  counterpart  of  the  '  Temple  of  the  Moon '  at  Mugheir." 

The  curious  reader  may  find  the  gist  of  the  preceding  state- 
ments regarding  the  civilization  of  the  Mayas  in  Landa's  in- 
teresting book,  Relacion  de  las  Cosas  de  Yucatan.  Even  though 
we  may  not  accept  the  conclusions  of  this  intrepid  explorer, 
"  that  the  cradle  of  the  world's  civilization  is  this  continent  on 
which  we  live,"  we  must  assign  to  the  Maya  people  an  elevated 
rank  among  the  civilized  nations  of  the  world,  and  great  antiquity. 

We  might  note,  before  leaving  Mayapan,  that,  according  to 
Cogolludo  (an  old  historian,  writing  in  1655),  all  the  nobles  of 
the  country  had  houses  in  that  city  before  its  destruction,  and 
were  exempted  from  tribute.  But  now,  he  says,  "  these  nobles, 
the  descendants  of  Tutul  Xiu,  who  was  the  king  and  natural 
lord,  if  they  do  not  work  with  their  own  hands,  have  nothing 
to  eat." 

Directly  east  of  Merida,  connected  by  a  great  high-road,  is 
Izamal,  the  ancient  Itzamal  of  the  Itzaes,  founded  by  them  first 
of  any  city  in  the  peninsula.  Itzamna  is  the  first  person  men- 
tioned   in  the  annals   of  the    peninsula,  a   hero    apotheosized, 


MAYAPAN,   THE   ANCIENT   EMPIRE. 


103 


and  a  great  leader  in  the  first  Itza  invasion.  "  In  the  centre  of 
a  region  of  waters  "  they  built  a  city  called  Itzamal,  and  here 
they  established  the  worship  of  Zamna,  consisting  of  the  offerings 
of  flowers  and  fruit.  To  this  religious  centre  flocked  pilgrims 
by  thousands,  and  it  is  thought  that  the  gigantic  head  of  stucco, 
to-day  seen  in  the  city  of  Izamal,  was  the  object  of  their  idolatry. 


GIGANTIC   HEAD. 

The  city  itself  is  quiet,  and  a  desirable  place  of  residence.  One 
of  its  other  attractions  is  an  immense  mound,  supposed  to  have 
been  the  foundation  for  an  ancient  temple ;  and  a  paved  road  is 
said  to  lead  from  this  place  to  the  ruins  of  Tulum.  As  early  as 
1549,  the  Indians,  under  Spanish  guidance,  erected  here  the 
celebrated  monastery  of  San  Antonio. 


I04  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

Continuing  on  from  Izamal,  bending  our  course  southward, 
we  shall  eventually  reach  the  attractive  though  unfortunate  city 
of  Valladolid,  thirty-seven  leagues  distant  from  Merida.  It  is 
celebrated  as  the  first  city  in  which  a  cotton-mill  was  erected 
in  Yucatan,  in  1834,  but  has  a  melancholy  interest  from  its 
almost  complete  destruction  in  the  revolution  of  the  Indians, 
in  1847. 

This  great  uprising  of  the  indigenous  race  had  its  origin  in 
the  period  of  independence,  in  1821,  when  Mexico  separated 
from  Spain.  In  Yucatan,  as  in  Mexico,  the  large  landed  pro- 
prietors were  opposed  to  separation  from  the  mother  country, 
while  the  bulk  of  the  population,  who  owned  no  property,  were 
in  favor  of  it.  The  question  later  arose  of  an  amalgamation 
with  Mexico,  which  gave  rise  to  two  parties,  —  for  and  against. 
Both  invoked  aid  from  the  Indians,  —  the  raza  indigena,  —  and 
placed  arms  in  their  hands,  and  filled  their  ears  with  promises. 
After  the  struggle  was  over  and  the  Mexicans  expelled,  the 
Indians  were  dismissed  to  their  homes  in  the  eastern  portion 
of  the  peninsula.  All  the  promises  made  them  were  evaded, 
and  so  they  returned  sullen  and  empty-handed  —  except  that 
they  kept  the  arms  —  and  later  used  them  ! 

In  1846  local  politics  ran  high  between  the  provinces  of 
Merida  and  Campeche,  and  they  came  to  blows.  It  was  the 
Indians'  opportunity ;  everywhere,  in  the  east,  there  was  a  great 
uprising.  The  eastern  coast  was  swept  with  fire  and  sword. 
Valladolid,  a  city  of  12,000  inhabitants,  and  Tekax,  with  5,000, 
were  completely  abandoned ;  and  gradually  all  northern,  east- 
ern, and  southeastern  Yucatan  seemed  to  be  returning  to  its 
primitive  owners.  The  indigenous  people  ravaged  the  country, 
burning,  pillaging,  murdering,  until  the  whites  were  panic- 
stricken  and  fled  towards  the  coast.  The  red  men  recollected 
the  centuries  of  wrong  they  had  endured,  and  vowed  to  wage 
against  the  white  race  a  war  of  extermination.  The  Creole 
population  of  Yucatan  appealed  for  aid  to  the  United  States,  to 
Mexico,  and  to  Spain.  At  last,  Mexico,  having  concluded  its 
war  with  the  United  States,  sent  succor,  and  very  gradually  the 
rebels  —  t\iQ  sublevados  —  were  driven  back.     But  it  was  years 


THE   CARCEL,    CHICKEN. 


MAYAPAN,   THE   ANCIENT   EMPIRE.  lo/ 

before  the  country  breathed  of  peace,  and  even  now  thousands 
of  square  miles  are  desolate,  and  hundreds  of  towns  lie  in  ruins. 
By  this  act  of  calling  in  aid  from  Mexico,  Yucatan  lost  her 
autonomy,  and  soon  after  became  one  of  the  confederated  states 
of  the  republic.  Valladolid  has  never  recovered  from  its  terri- 
ble injuries;  although,  from  its  geographical  position,  and  the 
vast  unoccupied  country  of  which  it  is  the  centre,  it  is  destined 
to  become  again  prosperous  and  populous. 

Lying  west  from  Valladolid,  about  thirty  miles,  is  the  largest, 
and  next  to  Uxmal  the  most  important,  group  of  ruins  in  Yuca- 
tan, that  of  Chichen-Itza.  The  ruined  structures  occupy  an 
area  of  about  two  miles,  and  a  high-road  passes  near  them. 
They  are  accurately  described  in  various  writings,  so  that  I  will 
not  do  more  than  enumerate  them  here.  Of  these  ruins,  the 
most  magnificent  pile  is  the  "  House  of  the  Nuns,"  very  rich  in 
sculpture,  while  the  "  Carcel,"  or  "Tower,"  is  the  grandest  and 
most  conspicuous  object  in  Chichen.  The  "  Gymnasium"  con- 
tains great  stone  rings  set  in  the  wall,  four  feet  in  diameter,  and 
with  a  sculptured  border  of  serpents.  The  hieroglyphic  carvings 
are  wonderful  and  beautiful,  and  the  mural  paintings,  represent- 
ting  warriors  in  battle  and  events  in  the  lives  of  the  various 
rulers  of  Chichen,  are  artistic  in  execution,  and  the  finest  that 
adorn  the  walls  of  any  buildings  yet  discovered.  A  procession  of 
lynxes,  or  tigers,  adorns  the  cornice  of  one  building,  while  sculp- 
tured slabs  and  pillars  are  scattered  profusely  over  the  ground. 

This  was  the  ancient  capital  of  the  Itzaes,  after  they  had  been 
driven  from  Itzamal  and  before  they  sought  seclusion  in  Peten. 
Various  attempts  have  been  made  to  reconstruct  their  history, 
from  the  scattered  fragments  left  by  tradition  and  from  the 
mural  paintings  and  hieroglyphs,  but  as  yet  with  little  success. 
Although  Stephens  gives  an  exhaustive  description  of  Chichen, 
yet  Norman^  claims  to  be  the  first  visitor  from  a  foreign  country 
to  describe  it  from  personal  observation.  "  No  marks,"  he  says, 
"of  human  footsteps,  no  signs  of  previous  visitors,  were  discov- 
erable ;  nor  is  there  good  reason  to  believe  that  any  person, 
whose  testimony  of  the  past  has  been  given  to  the  world,  had 
1  "Rambles  in  Yucatan,"  New  York,  1843. 


I08  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

ever  before  broken  the  silence  which  reigns  over  these  sacred 
tombs   of  a  departed  civilization." 

It  is  known,  however,  that  a  portion  of  Montejo's  army 
marched  through  here,  and  found  the  great  buildings  a  secure 
defence  against  the  assailing  Indians,  in  the  first  invasion. 

For  seven  years,  that  energetic  archaeologist,  Le  Plongeon, 
has  studied  the  hieroglyphs  of  Yucatan.  A  linguist  of  no  mean 
attainments,  adding  to  a  knowledge  of  modern  languages  an 
acquaintance  with  the  Maya,  the  native  tongue  of  the  peninsula, 
he  has  had  unusual  success  in  his  work.  It  is  to  him  that  the 
world  owes  the  bringing  to  the  light  of  the  beautiful  statue 
of  Chaacmol,  now  in  the  Mexican  Museum.  This  monolith, 
"  Chaacmol,  the  Tiger-King,"  was  unearthed  by  Dr.  Le  Plongeon 
at  Chichcn,  in  the  midst  of  a  dense  forest,  eight  metres  below  the 
stirface ;  —  found  by  his  powers  of  divination,  the  Indians  say; 
but  by  his  knowledge  of  the  hieroglyphs,  the  Doctor  says,  on 
the  walls  of  the  near  buildings.  By  almost  superhuman  exer- 
tions, the  Doctor  raised  the  great  statue,  which  is  over  nine  feet 
in  length,  from  its  burial-place,  —  the  story  of  its  exhumation 
reads  like  romance,  but  the  photographs,  taken  at  successive 
stages  of  the  work,  substantiate  the  narrative  in  every  particular, 
— and  transported  it  to  what  he  thought  was  a  place  of  safety.^ 
Alas  for  his  calculations,  and  for  the  scientists  of  the  United 
States  !  While  he  was  absent,  exploring  the  islands  of  Cozumel 
and  Mujeres,  his  precious  discovery  was  seized  by  the  Mexican 
government  and  carried  to  Mexico. 

Of  the  mural  paintings  of  Chichen,  the  most  beautiful  and 
unique  in  America,  the  Doctor  and  his  wife  have  an  extensive 
series  of  tracings,  which  I  was  fortunate  enough  to  be  allowed  to 
examine  in  Merida.  Chichen,  though  only  one  hundred  miles 
from  the  capital,  is  considered  rather  unsafe  at  present,  owing 
to  its  being  within  the  territory  of  the  unconquered  Indians,  and 
an  escort  of  soldiers  is  needed  for  the  last  thirty  miles  of  the 
journey,,  and  while  among  the  ruins. 

1  "The  reports  of  his  discoveries  seem  at  first  wellnigh  fabulous,  though  their 
authenticity  is  so  well  attested  as  to  leave  no  room  for  doubt."  —  John  T.  Short, 
"The  North  Americans  of  Antiquity." 


MAYAPAN,   THE   ANCIENT   EMPIRE. 


109 


It  is  to  be  hoped  that,  when  Dr.  Le  Plongeon  shall  have  com- 
pleted his  explorations,  he  will  give  to  the  world  a  connected 
account  of  his  discoveries,  embellished  with  his  photographs 
and  enlivened  with  the  sparkling  descriptions  of  his  talented 
and  devoted  wife.  At  present,  we  are  indebted  to  the  Ameri- 
can Antiquarian  Society  ^  for  several  valuable  illustrated  papers 
on  these  investigations,  and  especially  to  the  scholarly  editor, 
Mr.  Stephen  Salisbury,  Jr.,  through  whose  liberality  and  un- 
wearied exertions  they  were  published. 

The  predominant  character  of  these  Maya  structures,  says 
the  historian  of  Yucatan,  Sefior  Ancona,  is  that  all  are  built 
upon  an  artificial  ele- 
vation ;  a  pyramid  or 
truncate  cone  sup- 
porting a  building 
more  or  less  vast  and 
grand.  The  walls  are 
generally  of  great 
thickness,  many  are 
faced  on  the  exterior 
with  carved  stone, 
and  many  also  pre- 
sent a  rich  profusion 
of  adornments,  sculp- 
tured in  bas-relief 
upon      their      faces. 

Busts  and  human  heads,  figures  of  animals,  and  hieroglyphics  — 
which  nobody  has  yet  been  able  to  decipher  —  constitute  in  gen- 
eral these  adornments.  The  finest  workmanship  is  displayed  in 
broad  and  elevated  cornices ;  and  the  spectator  does  not  know 
M'hich  most  to  admire  in  the  artist,  —  the  prodigious  number  of 
small  pieces  with  which  he  composed  the  work,  or  the  beauty 
and  accuracy  to  nature  of  the  scenes  represented.  The  doors 
are  generally  low  and  the  lintels  of  wood,  some  richly  sculptured. 

1  For  detailed  descriptions  see  "  The  Mayas,  the  Sources  of  their  History,"  1877 ; 
"Maya  Aachasology,"  1879;  ^^^-  Proceedings  of  the  American  Antiquarian 
Society,  Worcester,  Mass. 


CHAACMOL. 


no  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

The  ceiling  is  formed  by  the  pecuHar  American  arch,  and  owing 
to  their  construction  not  much  breadth  can  be  got,  but  great 
length. 

Most  of  these  ruined  cities  have  remained  in  the  silence  and 
obscurity  of  the  wildernesses  in  which  they  are  immured,  ever 
since  the  traveller  Stephens  visited  them,  more  than  forty  years 
ago.  Kabah,  especially,  has  not  had  a  white  visitor,  it  is  said, 
since  that  time,  until  within  two  years.  In  June,  1881,  this 
group  was  visited  by  the  United  States  Consul,  Mr.  Louis  H. 
Ayme,  his  wife,  and  Mr.  Porter  C.  Bliss,  assistant  editor  of  John- 
son's Cyclopaedia.  Mr.  Ayme  is  an  enthusiastic  explorer,  who  is 
indefatigable  in  his  search  after  objects  of  interest  to  the  anti- 
quarians of  America.  Owing  to  his  exertions,  there  was  brought 
to  light  an  object  that  had  escaped  the  attention  of  all  previous 
explorers.  It  was  a  rude  painting  of  "  a  man  mounted  on 
horseback."  This  important  discovery  was  made  by  Mr.  Ayme 
on  June  i6th.  1881  ;  and  it  gives  me  pleasure  to  chronicle  such 
a  "  find  "  by  such  a  genial  gentleman,  who  was  so  helpful  to  me 
in  Yucatan,  and  who,  in  company  with  Mr.  Bliss,  rode  nearly 
a  thousand  miles  with  me,  later,  in  Southern  Mexico. 

At  a  later  period,  Mr.  Ayme  again  visited  Kabah,  this  time 
in  company  with  the  distinguished  archaeologist,  M.  Desiree 
Charnay,  who  immediately  pronounced  it  a  wonderful  discovery, 
and  praised  his  companion  highly.  He,  M.  Charnay,  declared 
it  to  be  "  a  figure -of  a  Spanish  horseman,  with  his  cuirass,  and 
prancing  on  a  fiery  steed":  and  claimed  that  his  theory — that 
these  ruins  have  not  a  great  antiquity  —  was  proved  completely! 
Dr.  Le  Plongeon,  however,  who  claims  for  the  ruined  cities  of 
Yucatan  that  they  were  hoary  with  the  weight  of  years  when 
the  Parthenon  was  built,  would  fain  induce  us  to  believe  that 
this  picture  is  a  portrait  of  an  ancient  worthy  named  Can,  who 
flourished  many  centuries  agone.  In  fine,  one  archaeologist 
"  proves  "  from  the  same  mural  painting,  that  these  ruins  are  less 
than  one  thousand  years  old,  while  the  other  is  equally  certain 
they  have  an  antiquity  of  at  least  ten  thousand  years  ! 

Readers  of  the  North  American  Review  for  the  past  few  years 
cannot   fail   to  have    noticed   that   M.  Charnay  started  on  his 


MAYAPAN,   THE   ANCIENT   EMPIRE. 


Ill 


explorations  in  Central  America  with  preconceived  notions  as 
to  the  age  and  builders  of  these  cities ;  and  he  has  ingeniously 
twisted  every  discovery  into  a  "  proof"  in  favor  of  his  pet  the- 
ory; which  unfortunate  manner  of  working  vitiates  all  the  labor 
heretofore  done. 


VI. 


A   GRAND   TURKEY    HUNT. 

"  With  us  ther  was  a  Doctor  of  Physike, 
In  all  this  world  ne  was  ther  won  him  like 
To  speak  of  physike,  and  of  surgerie." 

IT  was  drawing  near  the  close  of  my  stay  in  Yucatan,  and 
there  was  but  a  week  remaining;  but  the  Consul  had 
planned  one  last  trip  into  the  country  that  should  eclipse  all 
previous  expeditions.  He  promised  to  take  me  on  a  grand 
turkey  hunt.  The  magnificent  turkey  of  Yucatan,  the  Melcagris 
ocellatus,  is  found  only  there  and  in  Honduras  and  Guatemala. 
It  is  the  most  beautiful  of  the  whole  family.  Though  there  are 
three  species  in  North  America,  one  peculiar  to  the  United 
States  and  another  to  Mexico,  and  though  our  species  is  the 
largest,  the  ocellated  turkey  of  Yucatan  surpasses  them  all  in 
the  metallic  sheen  and  lustre  of  its  plumage.  It  was  to  capture 
this  glorious  bird,  then,  that  this  final  journey  in  Yucatan  was 
undertaken. 

At  eleven  o'clock  at  night,  our  volan  drove  up  to  the  door, 
and  the  Consul,  and  John,  myself,  and  another  man,  crawled 
into  it  and  wedged  ourselves  together  The  reader  does  n't 
know  John,  but  I  do ;  and  that  is  where  I  have  the  advantage  of 
the  reader.  John  was  a  dentist,  one  of  the  few  practitioners 
of  the  bloody  art  of  dentistry  who  could  draw  a  tooth  without 
gloating  over  the  misery  he  caused.  In  token  that  we  appre- 
ciated this  manly  quality  of  his  gentle  nature,  we  took  him  along 
to  let  him  see  us  shoot  turkeys. 

''Alerta  ! "  the  watch-cry  of  the  sentinel  pacing  in  front  of 
the  municipal  palace,  rang  clear  on  the  midnight  air,  as  we 
climbed  into  our  volan. 


A   GRAND   TURKEY    HUNT. 


113 


"Who  goes  there?"  shouted  another  sentinel  at  the  city  gate, 
as  we  dashed  beneath  its  arched  portal  and  sped  away  into 
the  country. 

"  A-migos  !  "  was  our  reply,  and,  settling  ourselves  snugly  on 
the  mattress,  we  prepared  for  sleep. 

We  set  out  on  our  journey  at  midnight.  The  heat  of  day  in 
Yucatan  is  so  great  that  all  travel  is  done  by  night. 

"Now,  Jose,"  said  the  Consul,  "  put  the  mules  to  their  best, 
because  we  have  sixty  miles  to  do  before  to-morrow  noon." 


THE   VOLAN-COCH^. 


"  Si,  sefior,"  replied  Jose,  and  then  he  stood  out  on  the  dash- 
board and  plied  the  whip  till  the  speeding  mules  were  hidden 
in  a  cloud  of  dust. 

Stretching  ourselves  on  our  bed,  we  almost  immediately  went 
to  sleep,  Jose's  cries  of  "  Moo/a,  moola  !  koo,  koo,  hoo  !  "  acting 
as  a  lullaby. 

A  volan  is  intended  for  only  two  persons,  who  lie  extended 
upon  the  mattress,  and  take  refreshing  naps  as  they  are  driven 


114  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

along.  But  we  four  had  to  double  ourselves  up,  resting  our 
chins  on  our  knees;  a  revolver  was  pressed  against  my  spine,  a 
small  bird-gun  tangled  up  with  my  legs,  and  all  the  legs  of  our 
trousers  crawled  up  above  our  knees,  where  they  remained  in 
uncomfortable  wads.  We  finally  got  to  sleep,  however,  leaving 
the  driver  whooping  and  yelling  at  the  mules,  just  as  we  hove  in 
sight  of  the  white  walls  of  a  hacienda.  Even  though  the  posi- 
tion was  uncomfortable,  it  was  pleasant  to  retlect  that  the  volan 
would  be  going  all  the  time  we  were  sleeping,  and  our  journey 
of  sixty  miles  would  be  so  much  shorter  when  we  awoke. 

It  might  have  been  three  hours  later  that  we  were  awakened 
by  loud  cursing  and  howling,  and,  looking  out  of  the  volan,  saw 
Senor  Acosta,  our  companero,  by  the  side  of  the  road,  thrashing 
the  driver.  Having  walloped  him  to  his  heart's  content,  he 
crawled  back  among  us  and  explained  that,  while  we  were  in- 
dulging in  a  nap,  the  driver  also  had  taken  one ;  and,  if  we 
would  look  out,  we  should  see  the  same  hacienda  that  was  in 
sight  before  we  closed  our  eyes.  This  was  discouraging,  but 
we  took  it  out  of  the  mules  and  the  driver,  from  there  on,  by 
taking  watch  and  watch.  At  three  in  the  morning  we  drove 
into  the  silent,  deserted  square  of  a  village.  All  the  houses  were 
closed,  of  course,  but  the  mules  were  taken  out  and  given  a  re- 
freshing change  ;  that  is,  the  inside  mule  was  put  on  the  outside. 
A  long  row  of  buildings  was  in  front  of  us,  and  our  driver  com- 
menced at  one  end  and  pounded  at  every  door  till  he  reached 
the  farther  end ;  then  he  began  again  and  went  down  the  whole 
row,  till  the  last  of  them  was  opened.  I  inquired  what  was  the 
matter,  and,  being  told  that  one  of  the  cart-wheels  was  twisted, 
supposed  they  were  stopping  for  something  to  remedy  the 
twist ;  but,  after  we  all  had  been  invited  in  and  had  a  drink  of 
habanero,  we  went  on  again,  as  before. 

It  was  yet  dark,  though  the  road  was  fairly  crowded  with 
Indians  going  to  Merida  to  market,  some  of  whom  had  come 
from  a  distance  of  thirty  or  forty  miles,  staggering  beneath 
heavy  loads  of  grass,  vegetables,  and  charcoal.  Passing  another 
volan,  our  driver  raced  with  it,  each  man  standing  out  on  the 
shafts   and   encouraging  the  jaded   mules   with   loud   yells   and 


A   GRAND   TURKEY   HUNT. 


115 


repeated  applications  of  a  raw-hide  thong.  We  finally  passed 
the  other  volan,  but  a  sudden  pulling  up  of  the  mules  caused  us 
all  to  look  out,  when  we  saw  that  we  had  run  into  a  party  of 
Indians,  and  unhorsed  a  woman,  who  picked  herself  up  out  of 
the  dust  and  limped  to  the  roadside,  sullenly  and  without  a 
word,  while  her  terrified  steed  dashed  away  out  of  sight.  Then 
we  went  on  again,  furiously, 
and  at  daylight  were  enter- 
ing the  street  of  an  inland 
town  called  Motul,  ten 
leagues  from  Merida.  Al- 
ready many  people  were  in 
the  street,  and  we  entered 
a  house  and  got  a  cup  of 
chocolate,  after  which  John 
and  I  visited  the  cathe- 
dral, built  in  165 1.  The 
altar  w^as  nearly  stripped  of 
ornaments,  but  there  yet 
remained  two  massive  can- 
delabra of  solid  silver. 

A  mile  from  the  plaza, 
we  came  to  the  famous  ce- 
note  of  Motul,  one  of  those 
used  by  the  aborigines  of 
Yucatan.  It  is  the  deepest 
hereabouts,  and  the  water 
can  only  be  seen  by  look- 
ing down  a  deep  well ;  but 
there  is  an  entrance  by  a  larger  hole,  through  which  you  reach 
a  great  chamber,  very  dark  and  gloomy,  and  swarming  with 
bats  and  lizards.  Undressing  in  this  chamber,  you  enter  the 
water,  the  glimmer  of  which  is  visible  by  going  in  some  ways, 
and  swim  towards  the  light,  then,  by  diving  under  a  ledge  that 
falls  from  the  roof  above  nearly  to  the  surface,  you  find  yourself 
in  the  circular  opening  some  sixty  feet  beneath  the  surface  of 
the  earth.     It  is  not  a  pleasant  place  to  bathe  in  at  all,  but  it  is 


RAMON  SELLER  {Ve7idedor  de  Ramon). 


Il6  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

cool  and  dark,  and  in  refreshing  contrast  to  the  glare  and  heat 
outside. 

A  strange  bird  lives  in  these  cenotes,  called  the  "  Toh,"  a 
species  of  Momotus.  He  is  about  a  foot  in  length,  with  fine 
silky  feathers  and  a  very  curious  tail.  It  is  formed  of  two  long 
feathers,  which  are  stripped  nearly  to  their  tip,  only  the  naked 
shafts  remaining. 

A  friend.  Professor  George  Gaumer,  who  has  spent  two  years 
in  Yucatan,  says  that  he  has  often  found  the  cenotes  swarming 
with  alligators  at  times,  when  at  others  not  one  could  be  found. 
From  this  he  very  reasonably  infers  an  underground  connec- 
tion with  large  bodies  of  water  by  subterranean  rivers. 

There  is  said  to  be  a  cenote  in  the  town  of  Tabi,  in  the  centre 
of  which,  at  midday,  when  the  sun  is  perpendicularly  above  the 
water,  there  appears  the  image  of  a  most  beautiful  palm  tree. 
Near  Tikoh  is  another,  into  which,  says  Cogolludo,  writing  in 
1655,  if  any  one  enters  without  holding  his  breath,  he  dies 
instantly;  therefore,  none  are  desirous  of  bathing  in  it.  In 
breathing,  or  making  any  other  noise,  they  say  the  commotion 
of  the  water  is  excessive,  and  that  the  noise  poisons  the  water, 
and  that  it  has  caused  the  death  of  many  Indians  while  drawing 
water  from  it. 

Another  writer  mentions  another  cenote,  one  of  the  largest 
in  the  peninsula,  in  the  centre  of  the  public  square  of  the  village 
of  Telchaquillo.  At  a  distance  "  the  square  seemed  level  and 
unbroken ;  but  women  walking  across  with  cantaros,  or  water- 
jars,  on  their  heads,  suddenly  disappeared,  and  others  seemed 
to  rise  up  out  of  the  earth." 

There  are  many  palm  trees  about  Motul,  and  pawpaws,  and 
other  tropical  plants.  The  flowers  are  profuse  and  beautiful, 
and  the  Mestiza  girls  as  lovely  as  they  can  be.  Yet  we  did  not 
tarry  long,  but  drove  on,  after  a  breakfast  and  a  nap,  through 
a  fertile  country  of  Sisal  hemp  and  corn,  to  the  next  town. 
Driving  rapidly  over  a  good  road,  we  entered  the  unending 
scrub  plains  of  Yucatan.  We  passed  a  great  many  Indians, 
mostly  women,  and  mostly  more  or  less  inebriated ;  not  vio- 
lently drunk,  but  enough  to  make  them  happy  and  smiling. 


A   GRAND   TURKEY    HUNT.  II7 

At  two  o'clock  we  drove  into  the  large  open  square  of  Can- 
sahcab,  a  neat  little  town,  mostly  of  thatched  houses,  containing 
the  best-preserved  church  and  presbytery  in  the  State.  The 
meaning  of  the  name  of  this  town,  which  is  Indian,  is,  that  you 
may  hunt  a  long  time  for  water  and  not  find  it.  This  the  Con- 
sul proved  to  be  true,  for  he  looked  everywhere  for  a  drink,  but 
came  back  to  us  without  having  found  it.  As  it  was  in  the 
heat  of  the  day,  everybody  was  in  his  hammock,  and  every 
house  was  closed.  Great  flocks  of  blackbirds  were  in  the 
square,  the  only  living  things  in  sight.  The  number  of  birds 
about  these  Indian  villages,  and  their  tameness,  speak  well  for 
the  gentle  nature  of  the  inhabitants. 

Though  we  had  but  twelve  miles  farther  to  go,  it  would  not  do 
to  pass  through  the  town  without  seeing  the  head  man ;  so  we 
waited  while  he  was  sent  for.  After  an  hour,  he  came  gallop- 
ing in  from  his  hacienda,  —  a  great,  good-looking,  sensible  man, 
of  about  fifty,  in  loose  shirt,  drawers,  and  sandals.  He  was 
delighted  to  see  us,  and  ordered  beer  and  refreshments  at  once, 
declared  that  we  were  going  no  farther  that  day,  and  turned  our 
mules  directly  into  his  enclosure.  This  is  the  way  they  travel 
throughout  Yucatan,  —  two  or  three  hours  on  the  road,  and  six 
or  eight  in  drinking  and  chatting.  Our  host.  General  Theodosio 
Canto,  was  one  of  the  famous  men  of  the  State.  He  has  served 
a  short  term  as  Governor,  and  is  the  greatest  man,  the  chief,  of 
this  portion  of  Yucatan.  He  has  headed  several  revolutions, 
fighting  long  and  obstinately.  A  long  scar  over  his  eye  shows 
where  he  was  terribly  cut  in  one  fight,  when,  also,  his  nose  was 
nearly  severed,  and  he  was  left  on  the  field ;  yet  he  was  out  and 
fighting  again  two  weeks  afterward.  He  says  that  the  blood  he 
had  in  him  then  flowed  out,  and  what  he  has  now  is  all  new. 

The  General  told  us  that  his  town  was  seldom  honored  with 
such  distinguished  visitors  as  we,  and  that  night  he  would  give 
us  a  grand  Mestiza  ball.  After  an  early  dinner  we  went  with  the 
General  and  invited  all  the  young  ladies  to  the  ball :  the  old  ones 
and  the  men  and  boys  were  sure  to  come  without  asking.  These 
young  ladies  had  rather  short  notice,  but  then  they  had  but  little 
preparation  to  make,  for  they  wear  generally  but  two  garments. 


Il8  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

They  have  only  to  change  the  over  and  under  skirt,  dust  a  little 
powder  over  their  arms  and  shoulders,  dab  a  little  rouge  here 
and  there,  and  hang  on  all  the  chains  and  jewelry  they  own,  and 
then  they  are  ready  for  anything. 

At  eight  o'clock  the  village  band  came  to  escort  us  to  the 
Casa  Mujiicipal,  or  the  city  hall,  the  corridor  of  which  (one 
hundred  feet  long)  had  been  swept,  and  decorated  with  palm 
branches.  A  great  throng  followed  us,  letting  off  rockets  and 
fire-crackers,  and  in  this  way  we  were  escorted  to  the  scene  of 
festivity.  As  we  arrived,  the  crowd  about  the  p07' tales  parted 
rieht  and  left,  and  we  were  conducted  to  the  seats  of  honor. 
The  sight  that  greeted  our  eyes  nearly  took  our  breath  away ; 
for  there,  ranged  in  chairs  along  the  wall,  was  a  row  of  the  pret- 
tiest Mestiza  girls  we  had  ever  seen.  They  were  dressed  in  their 
becoming  costume  of  snowy  white,  and  some  of  them  fairly 
glittering  in  gold  chains  and  ornaments.  The  ancient  national 
costume  of  the  Mayas,  from  whom  these  Indians  are  descended, 
was,  for  the  women,  two  skirts  of  fine  white  linen :  the  under 
skirt  reaches  from  the  waist  to  the  ground,  and  is  called  pic ; 
the  upper,  called  iiipil,  falls  from  the  shoulders,  over  the  lower, 
to  the  knees.  These  are  embroidered  in  gay  colors,  and  often 
edged  with  lace.  According  to  an  ancient  law,  there  should  be 
no  button  or  fastening  on  the  uipil,  and  it  is  cut  square,  very 
low  in  the  neck  and  back,  so  that  it  can  be  slipped  over  the 
head,  and  worn  without  any  fastening.  As  a  race,  these  people 
are  symmetrically  shaped,  and  the  loose  dress  of  the  females 
sets  off  their  beautiful  shoulders  to  great  advantage.  About  fifty 
of  these  lovely  damsels  sat  awaiting  our  arrival.  From  among 
these  the  General,  John,  and  the  Consul  selected  partners,  and 
were  soon  treading  the  light  fantastic  toe.  I  did  not  dance,  and 
sat  solitary  in  a  secluded  corner,  enjoying  the  bright  scene :  the 
long,  broad  corridor  lit  with  torches,  the  dark  masses  of  In- 
dians hemming  us  in,  and  the  senoritas  and  caballeros  in  their 
gay  costumes. 

An  old  man,  who  had  fixed  his  eyes  on  me  some  time  previ- 
ously, approached  and  asked  me  if  I  would  not  sit  by  his  daugh- 
ter and  talk  English  to  her.     She  was  a  sweet,  blooming  damsel, 


A   GRAND   TURKEY   HUNT.  II9 

fair  to  look  upon,  in  sooth,  and  I  had  not  the  heart  to  refuse 

such  a  reasonable  request;   so  I  went  as  directed,  and  opened  a 
conversation. 


MESTIZO    AND    MKSTIZA. 


Soon  I  noticed  that,  though  she  paid  the  closest  attention, 
and  nodded  her  pretty  head  and  winked  her  lovely  eyes  at 
intervals,  still  she  made  no  replies,  save  Si,  senor,  and  No, 
sehor,  and  not  always  bringing  these  in  at  the  right  place.     Then 


120  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

it  dawned  upon  me  that  my  aged  friend  was  playing  a  game  on 
me  by  getting  me  to  talk  English  to  a  girl  who  did  n't  under- 
stand one  word  of  the  language.  But  when  I  expostulated  with 
him,  he  replied,  innocently  and  in  good  faith,  that  his  daughter 
could  not  speak  English  certainly,  and,  moreover,  she  had  never 
heard  it  spoken  before,  nor  had  any  other  of  the  young  ladies 
in  the  room ;  but  he  hoped  I  would  not  refuse  to  gratify  her 
curiosity  to  hear  it.  And  just  then  the  blushing  beauty  smiled 
bewitchingly,  and  said  that  she  understood  my  English  very 
well,  and  that  the  old  man  could  just  go  along  about  his  busi- 
ness, or  words  to  that  effect. 

Well,  we  talked  English  together  for  quite  a  while,  though 
it  was  a  rather  one-sided  conversation,  for  she  could  only  un- 
derstand Spanish  and  Maya.  Pretty  soon  the  other  girls  wanted 
to  talk  English,  too,  and  grew  so  anxious  that  the  dancing  was 
entirely  suspended.  As  there  were  only  three  of  us,  and  not 
enough  to  go  round  if  but  one  young  lady  were  assigned  to 
each,  it  was  proposed  by  the  General  that  we  make  speeches  in 
English.  This  was  not  so  agreeable  a  method  as  taking  each 
damsel  separately  and  conversing  to  her  in  private ;  but  we 
consented,  and  it  fell  to  my  lot  to  lead  off.  Now,  not  a  mother's 
son,  or  daughter,  of  that  assemblage  could  understand  a  syllable 
of  anything  but  Spanish  and  Maya,  and  I  am  ashamed  to  con- 
fess that  I  presumed  upon  their  ignorance  in  a  way  that  was  not 
fair.  I  recited,  "  The  boy  stood  on  the  burning  deck  " ;  and 
when  the  Consul  assured  them  it  was  a  beautiful  English  poem, 
my  own  composition,  they  believed  him,  and  applauded  furi- 
ously. Then  the  Consul  and  John  made  speeches,  the  former 
passing  off  something  of  Daniel  Webster's  as  an  original  ora- 
tion, and  v/hen  we  were  through  it  was  midnight.  Refreshments 
were  then  brought  in,  and,  after  toasting  the  bright  eyes,  etc. 
of  the  Yucatecas,  we  all  departed  for  our  respective  dwellings. 

On  the  morrow  the  General  insisted  upon  going  with  us 
to  the  end  of  our  journey,  and  so  had  his  private  volan  hitched 
up,  and  about  nine  o'clock  we  reached  our  destination.  In 
this  town  of  Timax  (pronounced  Teemash)  we  found  the  only 
American  in  this  section,  in  response  to  whose  invitation  we 


A   GRAND   TURKEY    HUNT.  121 

had  undertaken  this  sixty-mile  ride.  He  was  a  naturalist,  who, 
after  spending  some  time  in  Cuba,  had  now  been  two  years 
or  more  in  Yucatan.  Tired  of  living  entirely  in  the  woods, 
where  he  had  collected  every  known  bug,  bird,  and  beast,  he 
had  at  last  settled  in  this  remote  town,  and  was  now  practising 
as  a  physician.  As  he  was  the  only  one  in  these  parts,  he  had 
a  very  profitable  practice,  though  his  only  authority  was  a 
"  Warren's  Household  Physician."  In  truth,  his  entire  curricu- 
lum embraced  no  more  than  he  had  grubbed  in  a  few  months 
from  between  the  lids  of  that  book.  Yet  he  was  as  success- 
ful as  physicians  who  have  had  the  advantage  of  colleges  and 
medical  schools,  and  could  manage  to  kill  almost  as  many  as 
they  could,  even  with  their  improved  methods  and  medicines. 
He  then  had  a  practice  of  fifty  dollars  a  week,  and  usually  lost 
not  more  than  half  his  patients.  We  did  not  find  the  Doctor 
in,  but  we  took  possession  of  his  house  and  hammocks,  and 
when  he  returned  were  very  much  at  home.  He  was  extremely 
delighted  to  see  us,  not  having  had  a  chance  to  speak  his  native 
tongue  for  several  months. 

He  it  was  who  was  to  conduct  us  to  the  haunts  of  the  wild 
turkey,  and  we  put  all  our  guns  in  order,  and  were  anxious  to 
start  at  once.  The  report  of  a  cannon  startled  us  and  made 
our  cheeks  turn  pale,  for  that  was  a  signal  that  the  indefatigable 
General  had  organized  and  ordered  another  ball.  As  it  was  to 
be  given  in  our  honor,  we  could  not  well  avoid  attending,  and 
thus  the  turkey  hunt  must  be  postponed.  This  was  to  be  a 
grand  affair,  ^ — what  the  negroes  would  call  a  "dignity  ball,"  — 
and  the  ladies  who  attended  wore  pure  white,  and  were  ele- 
gantly attired,  .while  the  gentlemen  were  in  faultless  evening 
dress.  The  jefe  politico,  or  mayor  of  the  town,  had  all  the 
streets  swept  and  cleaned,  and  the  Casa  Municipal  decorated, 
and  sent  us  a  courteous  invitation  to  attend,  couched  in  elegant 
Spanish.  A  great  crowd  of  Mestizos  and  Mestizas  surrounded 
the  side  and  two  ends  of  the  corridor,  and  gazed  upon  the  aris- 
tocratic dancers  with  whom  they  were  not  allowed  to  mingle. 
The  old  General  excited  our  curiosity  by  not  appearing  during 
the  afternoon  and  early  evening,  but  towards  nine  o'clock  he 


122  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

came  out  "  fresh  as  a  daisy,"  saying  he  had  been  sleeping,  and 
at  once  marched  on  to  the  floor,  demanded  the  prettiest  girl 
there  for  a  partner,  got  her,  and  led  the  dance.  The  ball  ended 
at  one  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  then  the  General  saw  us 
home,  and  kept  our  medical  friend  up  all  night,  during  which 
time  he  severely  punished  nineteen  bottles  of  beer,  one  after 
the  other.  "  To-night,"  said  he,  as  we  parted  from  him  at  dawn, 
"you  're  going  to  see  something;  I  'm  going  to  get  up  the 
grandest  fandango  Timax  ever  had."  Hearing  this,  we  de- 
spaired of  our  turkey  hunt  entirely,  as  we  were  obliged  to 
return  to  Merida  two  days  later,  or  lose  the  steamer  of  that 
week  for  Mexico. 

The  General  was  as  good  as  his  word.  At  dark  the  miisicos 
—  musicians— came  for  us,  headed  by  our  friend,  whom  all  the 
Indians  and  Mestizos  of  that  section  blindly  worshipped.  The 
musicos  were  clad  in  cotton  drawers  and  shirts  only,  with  high- 
crowned  straw  hats ;  but  they  played  as  sweetly  as  if  all  were 
graduates  from  a  musical  college,  and  cost  only  fifty  cents  a 
head.  The  soul  of  the  native-born  Mexican  and  Yucateco 
takes  as  naturally  to  music  as  a  woodchuck  to  clover;  he 
twangs  the  guitar  and  blows  the  dulcet  horn  as  perfectly  as  he 
dances,  and  he  commences  both  immediately  he  leaves  the 
cradle.  The  President  and  Chief  Judge  carried  round  some  of 
the  invitations.  When  we  reached  the  Casa  the  General  was 
seated  in  his  robe  of  state,  —  a  flowing  camisa,  —  and  smiled  be- 
nignantly  over  everybody  and  everything.  The  same  dazzling 
array  of  beautiful,  jewel-bedecked  Mestiza  girls  beamed  upon 
us  this  evening  as  at  the  first  baile,  and  soon  all  my  friends 
were  busy  filling  their  books  for  the  dances.  There  was  no  pre- 
scribed style  of  dress  for  the  men :  some  wore  their  linen  out- 
side, fluttering  in  the  evening  air,  some  wore  it  inside,  and  some 
of  the  more  aristocratic  even  wore  coats,  but  all  wore  their  hats. 

Unobserved,  in  a  corner,  I  was  watching  the  strange  cos- 
tumes with  keen  relish,  when  the  sharp  eye  of  the  General 
espied  me,  from  his  chair  of  state,  beneath  his  own  portrait 
draped  in  Mexican  colors.  "  Hi,  Senor  Federico !  why  are  you 
not  dancing?  " 


A   GRAND   TURKEY    HUNT. 


123 


"  Sefior  General,  I  don't  know  how." 

"  Yes  you  do  ;  you  've  got  to  dance,  any  way."  With  that  he 
approached  me,  and,  when  I  tried  to  dart  through  the  crowd, 
caught  and  led  me  sternly  back.  "  Here,"  beckoning  to  a  lovely 
girl,  "  come,  my  darling,  and  dance  with  el  senor  extranjero." 

The  girl  came  and  stood  in  front  of  me. 

"  That  is  my  niece,  the  prettiest  girl  in  the  room,  and  the 
best  dancer  in  the  catiton.  Take  her,  now,  and  the  Lord  help 
you. 

My  explanations  and  pro- 
testations that  I  never  danced 
were  of  no  avail.  He  only  re- 
peated, "  There  's  my  niece ; 
look  at  her !  " 

True  enough,  there  she 
was,  waiting  for  me  to  take 
her  out.  O,  she  was  a  hand- 
some girl !  with  regular  fea- 
tures, shapely  shoulders,  and 
hung  all  around  with  gold  or- 
naments. Though  she  could 
not  understand  a  word  of  my 
language,  she  must  have  seen 
that  I  did  not  want  to  dance 
with  her ;  but  when  the  music 
struck  up  she  merely  smiled, 
and  said,  in  the  sweetest  of 
tones,  "  Vamoiios  !" 

Vamonos  ^  means  "  Come 
along !  "  but  I  would  not  go.  Perplexed  and  confused,  I  stood 
there  trying  to  frame  an  adequate  answer  from  a  somewhat 
limited  Spanish  vocabulary.  At  last  I  had  it.  "  Seilorita,"  I 
began,  "  yo  no  se  this  kind  of  a  dance,  you  see ;  it 's  all  Greek  to 
me.  A  Virginia  reel,  now,  or  a  sailor's  hornpipe,  for  instance ; 
pero  este  baile  —  " 

1   Vamonos  is  purely  colloquial,  answering  to  the  imperative  of  the  verb  Ir. 


THE  PRETTIEST  GIRL  IN  THE  ROOM. 


124  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

That  precious  sentence  of  Hispano-English  was  never  finished, 
for  she  advanced  at  that,  seized  me  about  the  waist,  and  said,  in 
a  decided  sort  of  manner,  "  Vamonos ! '' —  and  I  went. 

Well,  that  young  lady  sailed  all  about  me,  like  a  swan.  While 
I  hopped  up  and  down,  stepped  on  her  skirt,  and  trod  on  her 
toes,  she  remained  as  serene  as  a  summer  sky,  pulled  me  this 
way  and  that,  whirled  me  round  and  round  till  I  was  giddy,  and 
ended  by  flinging  me  into  a  seat;  while  the  whole  audience, 
who  had  remained  thunder-struck  with  awe  and  amazement  at 
my  war-dance,  burst  into  loud  cries  of  "  Viva  Americano  !  " 

The  girls  sat  ranged  all  along  the  wall,  and  waited  till  a 
caballero  waltzed  up  to  them  and  snatched  one  away.  That 
was  considered  the  proper  thing  to  do,  —  when  you  saw  a  girl 
you  wanted,  to  go  up  and  lift  her  off  her  seat.  Seeing  that  I 
was  slow  in  coming  forward,  they  reversed  the  order  of  things, 
and,  before  I  was  well  aware,  I  was  spinning  away  with  another 
lady.  One  of  the  dances  was  the  ^oro,  or  bull-dance ;  and 
another,  the  zopilote,  or  turkey-buzzard  dance,  in  which  a  man 
and  woman  take  the  floor,  each  with  a  handkerchief,  and  go 
through  a  very  extraordinary  performance. 

About  midnight  the  Doctor  looked  in,  on  his  way  to  visit  a 
dying  patient,  and,  wishing  to  see  a  new  phase  of  native  life, 
I  went  with  him.  Entering  the  thatched  pole-hut  of  a  poor 
Indian,  we  found  ourselves  in  a  dark  room,  feebly  lighted  by  a 
small  candle.  It  was  a  decided  contrast  to  the  bright  ball-room, 
this  gloomy  and  miserable  hut,  the  abode  of  poverty  and  pain. 
In  a  hammock  lay  an  Indian  woman,  the  death-damp  already 
gathering  on  her  forehead,  and  a  group  of  other  women  kneel- 
ing despairingly  before  a  picture  of  the  Virgin.  Three  ham- 
mocks hung  from  the  smoke-blackened  rafters,  and  these,  with 
a  few  rude  cooking  utensils,  were  all  the  furniture  of  this  cheer- 
less abode. 

The  Doctor  told  them  of  her  condition,  and  the  informa- 
tion was  communicated  to  the  dying  one,  who  changed  nei- 
ther position  nor  expression.  Doubtless,  she  was  glad  to 
escape  from  a  life  that  offered  nothing  but  drudgery  and  toil ; 
for   these    Indians    have    no   fear   of   death,   always    welcoming 


A   GRAND   TURKEY   HUNT. 


125 


it,  and   rejoicing  rather  than   mourning  over  the  departure   of 
a  friend. 

Out  in  the  night  air  it  was  cool,  bright,  and  pleasant,  for  a 
norther  had  just  passed  over.  As  we  reached  the  corridor,  the 
ball  was  just  breaking  up,  and  toasts  were  being  drunk,  to  Mex- 
ico and  the  United  States,  to  the  senoritas  and  ourselves.  Good 
feeling  pervaded  us  all,  and  we  parted  from  these  kind  and 
unsophisticated  people  with  great  regret,  the  band  of  musicos 
escorting  us  to  the  Doctor's  house  with  lively  music,  and  amid 
vtvas  for  the  two  republics. 


VII. 


IN   THE   LOGWOOD    FORESTS. 

AFTER  the  last  ball,  the  good  General  insisted  upon  staying 
and  ascertaining  the  quality  of  the  remainder  of  the  Doc- 
tor's three  dozen  of  beer ;  and  at  three  A.  M.,  seeing  that  it  was 
likely  to  be  an  all-night  session,  I  crept  into  the  kitchen  and 
took  possession  of  one  of  the  hammocks.  This  kitchen  was  the 
usual  structure  devoted  to  that  use  in  Yucatan,  of  loose  poles 
driven  into  the  ground,  forming  a  square  pen,  topped  by  a  roof 
of  thatch.  Lorenzo  Acosta,  who  owned  the  house  the  Doctor 
hired,  and  who  piloted  me  to  this  retreat,  had  a  rancho  in  the 
logwood  district,  which  he  invited  me  to  visit,  promising  plenty 
of  flamingoes  and  wild  turkeys.  We  were  to  start  early  in  the 
morning,  before  the  Consul  and  John  would  be  stirring,  and,  as 
the  ride  was  to  be  a  long  one,  had  made  good  our  escape  from 
the  General  in  order  to  gain  a  few  hours'  sleep.  Two  old  women 
and  a  boy  occupied  this  apartment,  but  the  latter  was  uncere- 
moniously ejected  from  one  of  the  hammocks,  which  Lorenzo 
and  I  appropriated. 

Perhaps  the  reader  is  not  acquainted  with  the  Yucatan  way 
of  sleeping,  two  in  a  hammock,  and  I  will  proceed  to  enlighten 
him.  As  the  first  one  lies  down  in  the  hammock,  he  carefully 
takes  up  only  one  half,  measured  longitudinally,  leaving  the 
remainder  for  his  friend.  This  the  latter  occupies,  with  his  feet 
toward  and  parallel  with  the  other's  head,  so  that  the  two  are 
packed  "  heads  and  points,"  like  sardines.  This  leaves  a  kind 
of  partition  between  the  sleepers  which  effectually  separates 
them;  though,  if  one  is  inclined  to  kick  in  his  sleep,  the  other 
must  guard  well  his  nose.  In  any  event,  a  person  at  all  fastid- 
ious might  object  to  this  style  of  packing,  and  prefer  sleeping 


IN   THE   LOGWOOD    FORESTS.  1 2/ 

family  fashion,  crosswise  the  hammock.  But  when  one  aban- 
dons himself  to  the  guidance  of  a  stranger,  upon  whose  hospi- 
tality he  is  dependent,  he  must  promptly  check  any  qualms  of  his 
sensitive  soul,  and  be  duly  grateful  for  what  he  can  get. 

It  was  so  cold  that  I  awoke  several  times  during  the  brief 
space  we  occupied  the  hammock,  and  tried  to  remember  that 
this  was  what  they  term  the  "  hot "  season.  From  the  great 
flat  surface  of  rock  exposed  to  the  rays  of  a  powerful  sun 
during  the  day  in  Yucatan,  and  the  extremely  rapid  radiation 
at  night,  a  degree  of  cold  is  sometimes  reached  that  produces 
nocturnal  freezing.  During  the  hot,  dry  season,  the  cool  nights 
are  in  most  delightful  contrast  to  the  heated  atmosphere  of  day, 
and  induce  sweet  slumber,  if  one  is  properly  guarded  from  ex- 
tremes of  temperature. 

At  about  seven  in  the  morning  we  were  off  for  the  logwood 
camp,  by  the  way  of  the  town  of  Oilam.  This  inverted  C,  with 
which  Dilam  is  spelled,  is  a  necessity  arising  from  the  reten- 
tion of  the  ancient  Maya  names,  and  has  the  power  of  Ts,  the 
word,  consequently,  being  pronounced  Tsilam.  Don  Alonzo 
could  speak  excellent  Spanish,  but  what  availed  that  to  me 
when  I  was  but  in  my  first  lessons  in  that  language?  He  could 
not  speak  English,  but  he  had  a  new  "  Ollendorff,"  and  with  this 
and  my  "  conversation-book "  in  our  hands,  we  rode  through 
the  cool  woods,  startling  the  birds  with  our  blunders,  and 
laughing  at  our  many  mistakes. 

After  an  easy  ride  of  four  short  leagues  we  arrived  at  Oilam, 
entering  its  principal  street  between  low,  white-walled  houses. 
Going  to  a  house  near  the  great  square,  we  tied  our  horses,  and 
I  paid  the  man  who  brought  my  luggage  two  reals  —  twenty- 
five  cents  —  for  his  services,  and  four  reals  for  the  horse,  and 
he  returned  to  Timax.  We  were  provided  with  breakfast  in  a 
tienda,  —  a  shop,  —  and  while  we  were  eating,  the  proprietor 
played  the  Toro  for  us  on  a  guitar.  After  a  siesta  in  a  ham- 
mock, drowsily  watching  a  girl  of  graceful  figure,  clad  only  in  a 
snowy  uipil,  combing  for  an  hour  her  abundant  tresses,  I  was 
taken  out  and  introduced  to  the  Presidente  as  the  "  learned 
naturalist,  author,  and  discoverer,  Senor  Don  Federico." 


128 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


BLVm, 


Tgj^g      ,1 

H^^Ph 

g-  e — p — »-H 

1  ^  j»  ^  c ,  ' 

M ir- 

¥  ^  J 

J     J» — ^! 

p 

1 m     f      m 

5— f 

5-P 

/    4  g^ 

'l^  ^ 

t^=^= 

'cJ^-^ 

^^^J 

MUSIC   OF   THE   TORO. 

By  him  I  was  promised  seven  Indians,  with  whom  to  make  an 
excavation  in  the  great  mound.  I  should  explain  here,  that 
Dilam  is  celebrated  for  its  great  aboriginal  mound,  four  hundred 
feet  in  length  and  fifty  in  height  This  occupies  one  side  of  the 
great  plaza  of  the  town,  and  towers  above  the  church  and  prin- 
cipal buildings,  which  were  all  built  of  stone  from  its  ruins.  It 
was  visited  by  Stephens,  and  carelessly  examined  by  him,  a 
somewhat  fanciful  sketch  of  it  being  given  in  his  second  volume 
on  Yucatan.  He  attached  great  importance  to  it  as  being  the 
centre  of  a  population  at  the  time  of  the  first  visit  of  the  Span- 
iards, quoting  Herrera  in  confirmation  that  it  was  then  "  a  fine 
Town,  the  Lord  whereof  was  a  youth  of  the  Race  of  the  Cheles, 
then  a  Christian,  and  a  great  Friend  to  Captain  Francis  de 
Montejo,  who  received  and  entertained  them." 

From  the  summit  of  this  mound  the  country  for  leagues  around 
can  be  seen,  and  the  eye  ranges  over  a  vast  extent  of  scrub, 
with  no  village  in  sight  but  the  one  about  its  base.  A  second 
mound  lies  north  of  this  one,  running  east  and  west,  while  this 
larger  and  contiguous  one  has  its  longer  axis  north  and  south. 
The  limits  of  these  great  tumuli  once  greatly  exceeded  their 
present  area,  as  dressed  stones  can  be  seen  in  the  streets,  in 


IN   THE   LOGWOOD    FORESTS.  1 29 

position,  which  run  out  into  the  scrub  for  a  great  distance. 
Under  guidance  of  Don  Juan  we  chmbed  the  smaller  mound, 
and  some  little  boys  commenced  to  throw  out  the  dirt  and 
stones  from  a  small  hole  in  the  top.  They  soon  brought  out 
fragments  of  pottery  and  plaster,  the  former  finely  glazed  and 
tinted,  the  plaster  colored  bright  red,  drab,  and  green,  and  all 
the  tints  fresh  as  if  put  on  but  yesterday.  After  the  adult  In- 
dians arrived,  more  plaster  was  exhumed,  and  a  room  disclosed 
filled  with  debris  from  above.  It  proved  to  be  arched,  in  a  way 
similar  to  the  "  Akabna,"  at  Ake.  They  opened  it  sufficiently 
to  show  its  shape,  but  did  not  find  any  more  pottery  or  plas- 
ter, which  was  evidently  above  and  outside  the  building.  So  I 
caused  the  earth  to  be  removed  from  the  top,  and  soon  revealed 
great  pieces  of  stucco,  showing  bright  colors  and  elaborate  or- 
namentation and  design;  but  not  enough  to  satisfy  me,  though 
I  was  obliged  to  desist  digging  before  finding  much,  as  the  sun 
was  setting.  Its  last  rays  shone  directly  into  the  chamber  we 
had  opened.  Half  the  men  and  boys  of  the  village  were  gath- 
ered by  this  time,  and  all  assisted  eagerly  at  the  work,  even  the 
Presidente  and  the  schoolmaster.  I  paid  the  Indians  a  real 
apiece,  and  the  boys  a  medio,  and  all  were  delighted.  The  ruins 
of  a  building  upon  this  mound  would  seem  to  indicate  the  use  of 
these  vast  accumulations  of  earth  as  foundations  for  palaces  or 
temples.  In  a  flat  country,  like  Yucatan,  it  would  be  necessary 
to  elevate  the  public  buildings  in  this  manner  in  order  that  they 
could  be  seen  from  a  distance.  Though  the  ruinous  state  of  the 
structure  was  so  complete  that  no  satisfactory  outline  could  be 
obtained,  its  stones  covering  all  sides  of  the  mound,  and  large 
trees  and  agaves  growing  upon  the  summit,  yet  it  seemed  to 
have  been  composed  of  successive  platforms,  each  one  covered 
with  a  thick  layer  of  cement  or  plaster.  Stephens  did  not  visit 
it,  but  states  that  the  padre,  a  young  man  of  thirty  (when  he 
was  there,  forty  years  ago),  remembered  when  a  building  still 
remained  "  with  open  doorways,  pillars  in  them,  and  a  corridor 
all  around,"  and  was  called  El  Castillo,  —  the  castle. 

It  should  be  remembered  that  Oilam,  though  leagues  away, 
is    the    only    port    of  the    large    town   of   Izamal,   where   there 

9 


130  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

is  an  immense  mound  and  a  gigantic  sculptured  head,  and  a 
road  leads  straight  from  the  coast,  through  Timax,  to  that 
aboriginal  city. 

Alonzo  and  I  occupied  a  hammock  in  a  large,  empty  build- 
ing belonging  to  Don  Juan,  and  slept  again  a  la  Yjicateca,  the 
feet  of  each  in  close  proximity  to  the  other's  head,  which  is 
almost  as  compact  a  style  as  that  denominated  "spoon  fashion." 
We  were  to  start  at  four  the  next  morning,  but  did  not  rise  till 
five;  and  though  I  expected  to  get  on  our  journey  by  sunrise, 
it  was  nine  o'clock  before  we  left  the  town.  This  might  have 
been  expected,  for  the  day  before  it  was  to  have  been  muy  tem- 
pi^aiio,  —  very  early,  —  and  we  left  Timax  three  hours  behind 
time.  No  one  was  stirring  in  the  plaza,  but  a  baker's  shop  was 
open,  with  the  usual  knot  of  men  in  cotton  pants,  shivering  in 
their  sarapes ;  and  here  we  got  a  cup  of  chocolate.  While 
waiting  for  my  horse,  we  visited  the  old  churchyard,  a  walled- 
off  corner,  with  orange  trees  in  it.  It  must  have  been  formerly 
used  as  a  cemetery,  for  there  were  heaps  of  boxes  —  wine  cases, 
brandy  and  soap  boxes  —  full  of  dead  men's  bones ;  and  in  a 
recess  in  the  church  wall  were  arm  and  leg  bones,  and  grinning 
skulls,  that  seemed  inclined  to  dispute  our  entrance.  Don  Juan 
took  us  to  see  an  old  stone,  with  a  strange  inscription  on  it : 
probably,  as  he  said,  the  work  of  Indians  under  Spanish  direc- 
tion ;  and  he  held  up  a  wooden  cross  while  we  removed  from 
it  the  boxes  of  bones. 

Having  thus  been  cheerfully  fortified  for  the  journey,  I 
thought  Alonzo  would  start ;  but  he  lingered  here  and  there, 
buying  meat  and  bread,  till  eight  o'clock;  then  we  mounted 
our  horses,  bade  our  friends  "  Adios"  and  rode  down  the 
street  to  a  hut,  where  he  asked  for  breakfast.  This  consumed 
another  hour,  though  the  Mestiza  girl  worked  hard  to  prepare 
it  for  us,  being  hindered  by  the  admiring  and  amorous  Alonzo, 
who  haunted  the  kitchen,  teasing  the  pretty  cook  for  a  caress. 
Her  mother,  a  wrinkled  old  lady,  learning  that  I  could  not 
speak  Spanish,  pulled  a  dolorous  countenance  and  called  me 
pobrecito,  —  poor  little  fellow,  —  and  wanted  to  know  where  in  the 
world  I  lived,  that  the  people  could  not  speak  "  Castellano." 


IN   THE   LOGWOOD   FORESTS. 


131 


We  finally  got  fairly  astride  our  steeds  at  the  cross  of  San  Jose, 
near  a  big  ceibo  tree,  and  turned  into  a  narrow  trail  that  was,  its 
whole  length,  very  stony,  or  vi7iy  pcdragoso.  This  led  into  the 
forest  forming  part  of  the  belt  that  lines  the  eastern  and  north- 
ern coasts  of  Yucatan,  the  trees  gradually  increasing  in  size, 
and  becoming  more  open  as  we  advanced.  Birds  grew  more 
numerous,  especially  the  queer  bird  called  the  road-runner, — 
el  corre-camiiio,  —  a  species  of  cuckoo,  or  the  chaparral  cock. 
We  had  to  walk  our  horses,  the  road  was  so  slippery ;  very  little 
soil  covered  the  coral  rock,  which  was  full  of  holes,  caves,  and 
cenotes,  nearly  all  leading  to  water.  At  noon  we  halted  at  a 
small  cenote,  where  there  was  an  opening  in  the  rock,  down 
which  our  Indian  went,  and  got  a  calabash  full  of  pure  water, 
A  team  of  pack  mules  came  up  just  then,  and  their  owner  sat 
down  with  us  and  joined  in  a  refresco  Yucateco.  Into  the  cala- 
bash of  water  Alonzo  put  a  big  ball  of  atole,  or  mixture  of 
corn,  procured  of  the  Mestiza  in  the  morning,  and  stirred  it 
up  with  his  fingers.  When  of  proper  consistency  it  was  passed 
to  me,  and,  drinking  of  it,  I  found  it  sweet  and  refreshing. 
This  is  prepared  by  the  women,  of  maize,  spiced  and  sweetened, 
and  is  in  universal  use  in  Yucatan  and  Southern  Mexico,  form- 
ing, with  water,  a  pleasant  and  strengthening  drink.  We  drank 
all  around  from  the  same  calabash,  then  mounted  and  went  on 
again.  The  great  woods  were  open  at  times,  sweet,  clean,  and 
inviting,  and  the  leaves  lay  on  the  ground  as  in  autumn  in  the 
North ;  but  I  had  no  relish  for  this  sight,  desiring  to  reach  the 
end  of  a  ride  that  promised  to  be  interminable. 

Late  in  the  afternoon,  we  reached  a  change  in  the  dry,  hot 
road,  an  agiiada,  or  small  pond ;  and  here,  at  a  sign  from 
Alonzo,  I  got  ofi"  my  horse  and  crept  toward  the  water  with 
my  gun.  Through  the  bushes  I  saw  a  gallinule,  a  beautiful 
bird,  which  I  shot,  and  immediately  after  another,  that  flew 
up  at  the  report  of  the  gun.  These  Alonzo  secured  by  wad- 
ing into  the  dark  pool,  notwithstanding  he  had  sore  feet,  as  our 
Indian,  though  bare-legged,  refused  to  secure  them.  The  aguada 
was  deep,  its  surface  well  covered  with  lilies  and  water  plants, 
and  fringed  with  an  abundance  of  dead  snail  shells. 


132 


TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 


My  friend  had  hitherto  ridden  perched  upon  two  packs  of 
luggage,  and  I  had  used  his  horse,  while  the  Indian  carried 
a  great  load  on  his  back,  supported  by  a  band  passing  across 
his  forehead.     We  both  dismounted  here  and  pursued  the  rest 


OUR   INDIAN   PORTER. 


of  our  way  on  foot ;  and  I  shot  a  chachalalka,  a  kind  of 
pheasant,  and  from  a  little  gem  of  an  aguada  we  put  up  three 
large  ducks.  The  gallinules,  Alonzo  tells  me,  are  pajaivs 
preciosos,  or  very  precious  birds ;   and  they  are,  indeed,  a  rare 


IN   THE   LOGWOOD    FORESTS. 


133 


species,  and  a  valuable  addition  to  my  collection.  The  whole 
character  of  the  forest  changed  after  this ;  the  aguadas  were 
more  frequent,  and  the  entire  country  appeared  as  though  at 
times  submerged.  Of  this,  in  fact,  my  friend  assured  me,  add- 
ing that,  when  he  came  here,  in  June,  the  place  where  he  had 
his  camp,  now  dry  land,  was  entirely  under  water, 

I  was  very  weary  when  we  at  last  reached  a  meadow,  in  which 
some  horses  were  feeding,  and  was  told  that  we  were  near  the 
rancho.  To  my  great  surprise  my  friend's  rancJio  —  from  the 
name  of  which  I  was  led  to  expect  a  small  farm  —  proved  to 
be  nothing  more  than  a  collection  of  four  huts  of  palmetto 
leaves,  merely  roofs  to  shed  the  rain,  with  open  ends  and  sides. 
They  were  on  the  southern  rim  of  a  lovely  aguada,  surrounded 
by  palmetto  and  deciduous  trees.  A  pile  of  logwood,  thatched 
with  leaves,  a  bath-house  of  palm  leaves,  and  a  leaf  roof  over 
some  hollow  logs  that  served  as  beehives,  completed  the  estab- 
lishment. 

On  the  road  we  had  met  a  train  of  mules,  each  with  a  great 
plank,  fifteen  feet  long  and  two  wide,  lashed  on  each  side,  one 
end  projecting  beyond  his  ears,  the  other  dragging  on  the 
ground.  This  is  the  only  way  in  which  Western  Yucatan  can 
get  its  timber,  all  the  west  and  central  portion  being  covered 
with  scrub  or  second  growth. 

About  twenty  Indians  and  Mestizos,  with  bare  bodies  and 
legs,  sandals,  and  great  cutlasses,  were  lounging  about  as  we 
rode  in.  Three  Indian  women  and  a  comely  Mestiza  were  busy 
about  their  household  duties.  Upon  a  large  plank,  three  feet 
wide,  supported  on  four  legs,  were  two  metates,  with  rollers, 
used  for  grinding  corn  for  tortillas ;  and  in  addition  to  this  there 
were  a  few  tubs,  a  grindstone,  and  all  the  things  necessary  to  a 
camp  in  the  forest.  From  pole  to  pole,  under  the  thatched 
roofs  of  the  open  huts,  were  stretched  hammocks  of  Sisal  hemp, 
and  two  great  mosquito  bars  told  their  own  tale  of  insects  at 
night. 

We  rode  into  this  logwood  camp,  and  I  was  invited  to  a  ham- 
mock, while  they  talked  over  news  and  business,  for  Alonzo 
had  been  gone  some  time.     I  noticed  one  man,  a  Mestizo,  who 


134  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

had  an  uneasy  look,  and  one  woman,  a  Mestiza,  who  was 
comely  and  had  an  anxious  look,  though  a  very  sympathetic 
one,  —  as  they  say  here,  muy  sivipatica.  Of  the  other  women, 
one  was  fat  and  restless,  and  the  other  old  and  honest.  They 
all  worked  well,  not  intermitting  their  labors  for  a  minute. 
Supper  was  soon  ready.  After  the  fashion  of  the  country,  we 
first  washed  our  hands  in  a  calabash,  and  five  minutes  later  that 
same  calabash  was  brought  in  full  of  water  to  drink.  Poor 
Alonzo  had  but  two  bowls  besides  calabashes,  for  he  was  only 
camping,  and  had  no  knife,  fork,  or  spoon ;  so  I  took  my  jack- 
knife,  while  they  ate  with  fingers  and  tortillas.  Tortillas  and 
frijoles  (beans)  are  the  main  stay  of  a  Mexican  cuisine.  Upon 
the  tortillas,  as  plates,  you  spread  the  beans,  and  with  another 
corn  cake,  rolled  up  in  shape  of  a  spoon,  you  scoop  in  the 
frijoles.  When  the  latter  are  finished,  you  eat  the  spoon,  and 
then  the  plate,  leaving  no  troublesome  dishes  to  bother  the 
cook. 

Our  companion  was  a  Spaniard,  lately  from  Europe,  a  pleas- 
ant, black-eyed  young  man,  who  was  sent  by  a  firm  there  to 
look  after  their  interests  in  the  logwood.  There  were  no  chairs, 
of  course,  and  we  sat  in  hammocks,  while  the  food  was  placed 
on  a  box  on  a  clean  cloth.  As  we  ate,  more  tortillas  were 
brought,  hot  from  the  fire,  handed  to  us  on  a  cloth  by  the  cook, 
and  taken  by  us  and  clapped  down  on  the  table.  Quite  a  pile 
was  heaped  up  before  we  left,  and  these  were  taken  and  warmed 
over  for  the  men.  After  eating,  a  calabash  was  passed  around, 
full  of  water,  for  rinsing  the  mouth.  The  proper  way  is  to  fill 
the  mouth  with  water,  and,  after  inserting  the  finger  and  scrub- 
bing the  teeth,  to  spit  it  out.  This  custom  prevails  throughout 
Mexico,  even  among  well-to-do  people.  Cofi"ee  and  cigarettes 
then  followed;  the  latter,  in  fact,  were  going  all  the  time.  By 
this  time  darkness  had  settled  down,  and  some  of  the  men  retired 
to  their  hammocks.  Though  surrounded  by  strangers,  and  some 
with  not  very  pleasant  faces,  I  left  all  my  arms  outside  the  mos- 
quito bar  as  I  retired,  conscious  that  they,  as  well  as  myself,  were 
safe.  Later  in  the  season,  in  the  highlands  of  Mexico,  I  would 
have  sooner  slept  without  my  blanket  than  without  my  revolver; 


IN   THE   LOGWOOD    FORESTS.  1 35 

for  the  Aztecs  are  as  treacherous  and  faithless  as  the  people  of 
Yucatan  are  honest  and  true. 

After  a  second  coffee  we  all  sought  our  hammocks,  where 
Alonzo  and  I  reclined,  smoking  and  chatting.  I  was  anxious 
to  go  on  to  the  coast  for  flamingoes,  but  my  host  told  me  I 
could  not,  —  that  I  was  at  his  disposal ;  which  remark  rather 
irritated  me,  until  he  added,  with  a  smile,  "  And  I  am  at  yours, 
also."  I  had  got  accustomed  to  this  polite  insincerity,  how- 
ever. On  the  way  I  asked  him  if  the  horse  he  rode  was  his, 
and  he  replied:  "St,  senor,  y  de  listed,  tainbien,"  —  "Yes,  sir, 
and  yours  as  well."  After  that  I  ventured  but  one  more  ques- 
tion of  the  kind,  and  that  was  when,  in  the  house  of  the  young 
lady  who  had  prepared  our  breakfast,  I  asked  if  she  was  his 
sweetheart.  The  customary  reply  came  readily  to  his  lips : 
"  Si,  afnigo  inio,  and  yours  also." 

I  fell  asleep,  as  soon  as  the  insects  feasting  on  me,  ticks, 
sand-flies,  fleas,  and  chinches,  would  permit,  but  soon  awoke 
suddenly,  conscious  that  Alonzo  had  darted  out  from  under 
the  mosquito  bar  and  was  in  angry  expostulation  with  the  man 
with  the  evil  eyes.  This  man,  early  in  the  evening,  had  gone 
raving  to  his  hammock,  and  after  crying  there  awhile  he  had 
come  tearing  out,  and  seized  his  wife,  —  the  sympathetic  one, 
—  dragging  her  away  from  her  work.  She  had  submitted, 
though  expecting  a  beating,  merely  glancing  at  her  torn  uipil; 
but  one  of  the  men  jumped  at  him  as  he  drew  her  along,  and 
quieted  him  for  a  while.  Now  he  had  broken  out  afresh,  threat- 
ening to  kill  Alonzo  if  he  did  not  immediately  pay  him  his  wages, 
and  brandishing  a  great  machete  furiously.  Alonzo  was  in  no 
wise  frightened,  but  sprang  at  him  like  a  jaguar,  promising  him  a 
beating  that  would  answer  for  his  wages.  And  I  have  no  doubt 
the  Indian  would  have  got  it,  though  my  friend  is  a  little  man, 
for  in  Oilam  he  had  flown  at  a  man  who  talked  insolently  to 
him,  slapped  his  face,  and  pounded  him  well,  until  he  ceased 
from  talking.  So  they  had  it  out  in  talk,  and  piled  fresh  fuel 
on  the  fire  as  though  they  intended  to  be  at  it  all  night,  mak- 
ing my  hut  as  light  as  day.  The  fight  ended,  Alonzo  quietly 
entered  the   mosquito  bar,  which  was  made  large  enough  for 


136  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

both  our  hammocks,  and  ordered  coffee  and  cigarettes  for 
two.  When  he  had  asked  me  to  enter,  he  had  said,  in  Maya, 
"  Kom  iJi,''  which  is  the  equivalent  in  that  language  for  "  Come 
in."  There  are  also  other  words  similar  in  sound  and  signifi- 
cation to  ours.  In  the  morning,  after  coffee  and  cigarettes,  we 
all  went  into  the  woods  to  inspect  the  logwood  —  the  palo 
tinto  or  palo  de  Campeche  —  which  the  men  had  cut  during 
Acosta's  absence.  It  was  then  very  hot,  though  the  night  had 
been  freezing  cold. 

The  wood  they  had  cut  lay  in  little  heaps  where  they  had 
felled  the  trees.  It  was  trimmed  of  all  the  bark  and  white  outer 
wood,  and  was  in  color  from  light  red  to  dark  purple.  One  of 
the  men  had  a  steelyard  with  him,  and  this  was  hung  from  a 
tree,  and  the  wood,  piled  on  a  suspended  platform,  was  weighed, 
four  aj-robas,  or  one  hundred  pounds,  at  a  time.  This  was  noted 
down,  with  the  name  of  the  man  who  cut  it,  and  we  passed  on 
to  the  next,  being  engaged  in  this  way  several  hours.  The 
horses  were  then  led  up,  and  a  load  of  four  arrobas  packed  on 
each,  and  carried  to  the  camp. 

The  logwood  tree,  HcEmatoxylon  Campechiamnn,  is  found 
bordering  all  the  great  lagoons  and  a  good  portion  of  the  sea- 
coast  of  Southern  Mexico.  Campeche  especially  —  a  name 
which  this  tree  bears  as  its  specific  appellation  —  exports  vast 
quantities.  It  is  a  tree  of  medium  size  and  peculiar  appear- 
ance, attaining  a  height  of  twenty  or  thirty  feet.  The  trunk  is 
gnarled  and  full  of  cavities,  and  separates  a  short  distance  above 
the  ground ;  the  leaves  are  pinnated,  the  flowers  small  and  yel- 
lowish, hanging  in  bunches  from  the  ends  of  the  branches.  The 
bark  is  dark,  while  the  sap-wood  is  yellowish,  and  the  heart, 
the  valuable  portion,  deep  red.  The  logwood  forests  are  nearly 
all  flooded  in  the  rainy  season,  though  the  tree  is  found  in  the 
hills  as  well  as  on  the  plains.  It  is  in  the  dry  season  that  the 
cutting  begins,  and  in  the  rainy  season  the  wood  is  floated  to 
the  embarcaderos ,  or  wharves,  on  the  rivers  and  lagoons,  and 
thence  to  the  ports  to  be  laden  in  foreign  vessels. 

Many  other  valuable  woods  are  found  in  Yucatan,  including 
the    mastic    i^Pistacia   leiitisciis),    and    dye-woods    and    dyeing 


IN    THE    LOGWOOD    FORESTS.  1 37 

plants,  such  as  the  archil  {Rocella  tinctoria)  and  madder  {Rii- 
bia  tinctoriiivi ) . 

The  sun  was  blazing  hot,  butterflies  played  about  us,  birds 
sang  in  the  thin-foliaged  trees,  and  a  native  quail,  or  faisan,  got 
up  at  intervals.  We  saw  one  deer,  venado,  and  one  turkey, 
pavo  del  moute,  but  not  near  enough  for  a  fair  shot.  There 
were  many  caves  and  depressions  in  the  limestone  surface,  with 
water  in  them,  looking  cool  and  inviting  for  a  bath ;  but  numer- 
ous adders  swimming  across  the  water  rendered  them  less  at- 
tractive. Thousands  of  dead  snails  lay  in  windrows,  but  not  a 
live  one  was  to  be  found,  though  I  searched  diligently  under 
the  dead  logs  and  leaves. 

The  logwood  was  brought  into  camp  and  stacked,  whence  it 
will  be  carried  to  the  port  of  3ilam  and  shipped.  There  seem 
to  be  vast  quantities  of  it,  but  it  is  in  remote  sections,  where  it 
is  difficult  and  expensive  to  get  it  out.  As  we  returned  to  camp, 
my  friend  was  taken  with  cramp  in  the  stomach,  and  howled  and 
cried,  and  the  man  with  whom  he  had  quarrelled  in  the  morning 
was  the  first  to  hasten  to  his  aid.  I  suspected  then  it  was  but  a 
ruse  to  bring  about  a  change  of  sentiment  through  sympathy. 
In  the  evening  Alonzo  brought  out  a  big  bag  of  silver  which  he 
had  brought  to  pay  the  men  with,  and  proceeded  to  devote  it 
to  that  purpose.  I  admired  the  pluck  of  my  little  friend,  that 
would  not  let  him  be  browbeaten  into  paying  it  out  before  he 
was  ready,  though  in  apparent  danger  from  the  Indian  with  the 
bad-looking  eyes.  We  walked  out  in  the  cool  of  the  evening 
toward  the  aguadas,  or  ponds ;  the  birds  were  still,  and  a  quiet 
brooded  over  the  lonely  place,  except  for  the  cries  of  the  galli- 
nules  in  the  marsh,  one  of  which  Alonzo  shot,  and  waded  into 
the  water  waist-deep  to  secure  it.  Sometimes  the  simplest  thing 
will  awaken  thoughts  of  home  when  in  a  strange  country  where 
the  scenery  is  different;  and  mine  were  carried  back  to  the 
North  by  the  sight  of  a  group  of  cat-tail  flags,  growing  as  in 
Northern  meadows. 

The  industry  of  the  Indian  women  of  Yucatan  is  a  matter  of 
wonder.  From  long  before  daylight  till  late  at  night,  even  after 
we  had  retired  to  our  rest,  they  were  toiling  at  the  metates.     It 


138 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


is  the  most  laborious  of  occupations,  to  work  the  stone  roller 
over  a  smooth  slab  of  stone  all  day  long.  I  saw  two  girls  in 
Timax  who  worked  twelve  hours  a  day  at  the  metates,  grinding 
castor  beans,  for  which  they  received  eighteen  cents  per  day. 
Our  women  were  kept  employed  unusually  late  that  night,  in 
cooking  up  a  store  of  tortillas  for  our  journey  next  day,  for 
we  were  to  go  to  the  coast  for  flamingoes. 


LA   TORTILLERA. 


VIII. 

NORTH  COAST  OF  YUCATAN. 

'TPHE  glassy  surface  of  the  aguada,  soon  after  dawn,  reflected 
■*-  the  rosy  hues  of  the  sky,  the  sun  crept  slowly  up,  dis- 
sipating the  coolness  of  the  night,  and  before  seven  it  was  very 
hot.  The  sand- flies  came  out  and  enlivened  us,  while  the  birds 
commenced  their  cries.  I  dressed  and  went  out.  Coffee  was 
ready,  and  cigarettes,  and,  after  taking  breakfast,  we  were  ready 
to  start  for  the  coast.  We  were  to  have  started  imij/  temprano, 
—  very  early,  —  but  the  sun  climbed  higher  and  higher,  and 
still  the  horses  were  munching  their  corn,  and  my  friend  still 
unprepared.  It  is  always  vianaiia  —  to-morrow  —  in  this  coun- 
try ;  manana  teinprano,  early  to-morrow ;  but  it  is  ever  niarianay 
and  never  temprano.  The  people  lose  the  best  hours  of  morn- 
ing, and  work  in  the  heat  of  the  day. 

Across  the  aguada  there  was  a  strange  bird,  called  the 
marinero,  or  sailor,  that  uttered  a  succession  of  harsh  cries 
for  hours.  The  woods  were  full  of  birds  of  certain  species, 
such  as  orioles,  flycatchers,  blackbirds,  doves,  and  a  host  of 
others.  I  shot  a  very  beautiful  trogon,  with  a  yellow  breast, 
and  parrots  were  crying  out  all  the  time.  Temprano  meant 
ten  o'clock,  when  the  sun  nearly  blistered  our  backs ;  yet  even 
then  Alonzo  wanted  to  know  if  I  would  not  like  to'  wait  till 
later. 

Many  of  the  trees  that  composed  the  wood  we  first  entered 
supported  great  nests  of  the  white  ants,  which  looked  at  a  little 
distance  like  black  bears.  We  passed  through  a  broad  area 
covered  with  wild  heneqiien,  showing  whence  the  plants  come 
with  which  the  plantations  are  stocked.  Near  some  lovely 
aguadas  was  a  new  rancho,  with  a  nice-looking  girl  preparing 


I40  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

tortillas;  and  some  hundred  rods  beyond  we  saw  an  Indian 
mound  of  shells.  An  hour  later  I  saw  a  man-of-war  bird 
{Tackypetes  aqinla),  and  felt  that,  from  this  sign,  the  sea  could 
not  be  far  off;  nor  was  I  mistaken,  for  we  soon  struck  a  sandy- 
plain  with  small  salt  ponds,  and  espied  the  great  lagoon  that 
connects  with  the  sea. 

Mangroves  and  stunted  trees  had  been  features  of  the  land- 
scape thus  far,  but  a  mound  of  green  coco  palms  now  rose  up 
and  relieved  the  monotony.  This  was  the  cerro,  or  hill,  we 
were  looking  for,  a  shell-heap  made  by  the  ancient  Indians, 
covered  and  surrounded  with  a  few  hundred  coco  palms.  Here 
were  two  small  thatched  and  wattled  huts,  dilapidated  and 
dirty,  within  which  were  two  Indian  women  cooking  some  fish. 
They  had  nothing  else  except  a  little  corn ;  but  they  brought 
a  great  fish,  called  lisa,  which  had  been  broiled  on  the  coals 
in  its  own  fat,  and  this  was  delicious.  It  was,  as  it  lay  split 
open,  nearly  two  inches  thick,  and  we  ate  and  relished  exceed- 
ingly great  flakes  of  it.  These  women  had  never  seen  a  spoon, 
table-knife,  or  fork ;  and,  as  we  had  none  with  us,  we  used  our 
fingers  and  tortillas,  each  one  taking  his  turn  at  the  fish  and 
gravy.  Fortunately,  we  had  hundreds  of  coco  nuts  at  hand, 
and  were  not  obliged  to  drink  the  dirty  coffee  they  boiled  for 
us,  but  had,  instead,  the  refreshing  water  of  the  cocos.  A  man 
came  along  as  we  finished  our  cigarettes,  and  we  engaged  him 
to  take  us  in  his  boat  to  a  point  up  the  lagoon  where  there 
were,  according  to  him,  "  imicJios  flamingos!'  The  cerro  is  at 
a  point  where  the  lagoon  meets  the  sea,  called  Boca  de  Dilam 
and  Puntas  Arenas,  or  point  of  sand.  There  are  long  sand- 
bars and  shoals,  and  naturally  the  fish  congregate  by  millions, 
and  the  sea-birds  by  thousands.  A  wall  of  mangroves  comes 
down  to  the  border  of  the  lagoon,  and  beyond  the  sand  point 
is  the  open  ocean.  Flocks  of  pelicans,  sea-gulls,  terns,  cor- 
morants, peeps,  plover,  snipe,  herons,  egrets,  and  spoonbills 
were  flying,  wading,  and  swimming,  in  and  above  the  water. 
Here,  it  is  said,  the  flamingoes  come  by  hundreds  on  the  bar, 
about  a  gunshot  from  the  huts  among  the  palms ;  but  they  were 
not   there   then, — they  would    come    that    night,    or   nianana. 


NORTH   COAST   OF   YUCATAN.  I4I 

The  man  poled  the  boat  up  the  lagoon,  disturbing  hundreds  of 
snipe  and  sandpipers,  to  a  point  where  the  stream  narrowed,  and 
where  the  mangroves  reached  even  to  the  water's  edge,  forming 
solid  green  walls,  with  the  placid  water  between  them.  These 
trees  were  dotted  with  white  herons  and  cormorants,  and  at  a 
place  where  there  was  a  spring,  —  a  spring  of  fresh  water  ^  bub- 
bling up  in  this  salt  water  lagoon,  —  we  put  up  a  hundred  ducks 
and  two  dozen  spoonbills  (^Platalea  ajajd)  which  were  roost- 
ing on  the  trees. 

Having  shot  some  of  these  birds  we  tried  to  land,  but  the 
mud  was  so  soft,  and  we  sank  so  deep,  that  it  was  impossible, 
and  we  were  obliged  to  leave  them.  Quitting  the  main  channel, 
we  entered  a  narrow  water  lane,  where  many  egrets  and  night- 
herons,  with  broad  boat-bills,  flapped  across  our  bows.  The 
mangroves  were  in  bloom,  the  small  concealed  flower  being 
hardly  perceptible.  At  last  we  reached  the  point  where  the 
flamingoes  ought  to  have  been,  but  where  they  were  not,  —  a 
broad  mud  flat,  where  they  always  had  fed  till  that  day.  Dis- 
appointed, we  turned  the  boat  about,  after  causing  it  to  be 
pushed  over  the  mud  as  far  as  possible,  and  returned. 

The  sun  was  down  then,  and  the  water  smoother,  and  all  the 
little  water  birds  and  the  greater  ibis  and  herons  were  going  to 
roost,  some  on  the  sand-bars,  others  on  the  trees.  Our  dinner, 
when  we  reached  the  hut,  was  the  same  as  our  breakfast,  —  a 
large  broiled  fish,  laid  out  on  a  palmetto  fan,  which  we  ate  by 
the  light  of  an  attenuated  candle,  stuck  near  by  on  a  metate 
table.  The  interior  of  the  hut  was  black  with  smoke,  dried  fish 
were  stuck  up  all  about,  nets  and  other  paraphernalia  of  a  fisher's 
hut  hung  in  the  corners,  and  one  end  was  filled  by  a  great  pile 

1  Perhaps  the  reader  may  recall  the  accounts  given  of  the  wonderful  fresh-water 
spring  in  the  Atlantic,  off  St.  Augustine,  on  the  Florida  coast,  known  forty  years 
ago.  "On  the  northern  coast  of  Yucatan,"  says  Humboldt,  "at  the  mouth  of  the 
Rio  Lagartos,  four  hundred  metres  from  the  shore,  springs  of  fresh  water  spout  up 
from  amidst  the  salt  water.  It  is  probable  that  from  some  strong  hydrostatical 
pression  the  fresh  water,  after  bursting  through  the  banks  of  calcareous  rocks  be- 
tween the  clefts  of  which  it  had  flowed,  rises  above  the  level  of  the  salt  water." 
Florida  and  Yucatan  are  of  similar  geological  formation;  hence  the  appearance  of 
these  springs  on  the  coasts  of  both  peninsulas. 


142  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

of  COCO  nuts.  Into  the  six  hammocks,  hung  side  by  side  in  the 
centre,  ten  people  stowed  themselves  as  night  came  on,  though 
Alonzo  and  I,  in  virtue  of  our  silver,  had  a  single  one  each.  I 
slept  uneasily,  because  they  told  me  the  flamingoes  would  come 
in  the  night,  and  we  must  get  up  at  moonrise  and  hunt  them. 
Insects  of  some  kind  —  I  could  not  tell  what,  nor  how  many, 
save  that  I  knew  they  were  numerous  and  sanguinary  —  were 
crawling  over  me  all  night.  The  hammock  next  me  was  occu- 
pied by  an  old  woman  with  two  babies,  and  she,  with  the  men 
and  boys  on  either  side,  was  smoking  and  spitting  all  night.  It 
was  very  dark,  and  the  wind  was  howling  through  the  spaces  of 
the  hut  during  all  those  weary  hours,  and  in  the  morning  there 
was  a  perfect  "  norther,"  and  the  long  leaves  of  the  coco  palms 
were  lashing  their  trunks  in  fury.  At  sunset  the  Indians  told 
us  the  flamingoes  would  come  at  midnight,  then  at  dawn,  and 
when  daylight  came  they  were  on  an  island  two  leagues  off,  and 
would  appear  manana.  When  I  heard  this  last,  I  knew  the  case 
was  hopeless,  and  prepared  to  depart.  The  only  sight  of  flamin- 
goes we  obtained  was  early  in  the  morning,  when  two  long  lines 
flapped  over  the  water  far  at  sea,  distinguishable  miles  away  by 
their  bright  color. 

Forty  years  ago,  Mr.  Stephens  and  Dr.  Cabot  had  similar  for- 
tune to  mine  in  this  same  locality,  having  been  lured  here  from 
the  port  of  Oilam  by  the  stories  told  them  of  the  abundance 
of  ibis  and  flamingoes,  and  having  still  returned  empty-handed. 
Then,  as  now,  Puntas  Arenas  was  simply  a  station  for  fishermen, 
and  had  but  a  single  hut.  I  perfectly  agree  with  the  distin- 
guished traveller,  that,  "  for  mere  sporting,  such  a  ground  is  not 
often  seen,  and  the  idea  of  a  shooting  lodge,  or  rather  hut,  on 
the  shores  of  Punta  Arenas  for  a  few  months  in  the  season,  pre- 
sented itself  almost  as  attractively  as  that  of  exploring  ruined 
cities." 

Stephens  was  then  on  his  way  back  from  an  extended  explo- 
ration of  the  ruins  on  the  island  of  Cozumel  and  the  east  coast 
of  the  peninsula ;  and  perhaps,  as  this  is  the  nearest  point  we 
shall  reach  in  that  direction,  it  will  be  well  to  interpolate  a  short 
description  of  that  portion  of  Yucatan.     The  first  point  at  which 


NORTH   COAST   OF   YUCATAN.  I43 

the  Spaniards  under  Cordova  touched  upon  the  then  unknown 
kingdom  of  Mexico  was  at  its  northeastern  extremity,  now 
called  Cape  Catoche.  An  Indian  chief  invited  them  ashore, 
saying,  "  Con-escotoch,"  which  signifies,  "  Come  to  our  town  " ; 
and  from  this  he  gave  it  the  name  of  Punta  de  Cotoche.  It  is 
situated  in  latitude  21°  34'  North,  longitude  86°  57'  51"  West. 

"  It  was  determined  by  us  to  accept  the  invitation,"  says  the 
old  chronicler,  "  observing  the  proper  precaution  of  going  all 
in  a  body,  and  by  one  embarkation,  as  we  perceived  the  shore 
to  be  lined  with  Indians."  They  were  attacked  by  these,  their 
first  acquaintances  of  the  new  country,  and  fifteen  of  the  com- 
pany wounded.  "These  warriors  were  armed  with  thick  coats 
of  cotton,  and  carried,  besides  their  bows  and  arrows,  lances, 
shields,  and  slings ;  they  also  wore   ornaments   of  feathers  on 

their   heads Near   the    place    of  this    ambuscade   were 

three  buildings  of  lime  and  stone,  wherein  were  idols  of  clay, 
with  diabolical  countenances,  and  several  wooden  chests,  which 
contained  similar  idols  but  smaller,  some  vessels,  three  dia- 
dems, and  some  imitations  of  birds  and  fishes  in  alloyed  gold. 
The  buildings  of  lime  and  stone,  and  the  gold,  gave  us  a  high 
idea  of  the  country  we  had  discovered.  On  our  return  to  the 
shore  we  had  the  satisfaction  to  find  that,  while  we  were  fight- 
ing, our  chaplain,  Gonzales,  had  taken  care  of  the  chests  and 
their  contents,  which  he  had,  with  the  assistance  of  two  Indians 
of  Cuba,  brought  off  safely  to  our  ships.  Having  re-embarked, 
we  proceeded  as  before,  coasting  to  the  westward." 

The  island  of  Cozumel  was  discovered  the  next  year,  15  18, 
on  the  voyage  of  Grijalva,  and  for  it  Cortes  set  sail  in  15 19. 
"  There  was,"  says  Bernal  Diaz,  "  on  the  island  of  Cozumel  a 
temple,  and  some  hideous  idols,  to  which  all  the  Indians  of  the 
neighboring  districts  used  to  go  frequently  in  solemn  proces- 
sion." These  idols  Cortes  and  his  companions  cast  down,  and 
substituted  the  cross  in  their  place,  which  the  Indians  finally 
consented  to  accept.  Here  they  heard  of  two  Spaniards  in  cap- 
tivity among  the  Indians,  one  of  whom  they  rescued,  and  who 
proved  of  great  service  afterwards  as  an  interpreter. 

North  of  the  great  island  of  Cozumel  is  Isla  Mujeres,  about 


144 


TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 


J 


six  miles  from  the  coast,  five  or  six  miles  in  length  by  half  a 
mile  wide.  Here  some  of  the  sailors  with  Cortes  went  on  shore, 
and  found  in  the  town,  near  by,  four  temples,  the  idols  in  which 
represented  human  female  figures  of  large  size,  for  which  reason 
they  named  this  place  Funta  de  las  Mujeres,  or  Women's  Cape. 

What  Stephens,  in 
1842,  did  for  Isla 
Mujeres  and  Cozu- 
mel,  in  a  superfi- 
cial manner,  the  ar- 
chaeologist Dr.  Le 
Plongeon  has  since 
done  more  thor- 
oughly and  satisfac- 
torily. In  a  com- 
munication, printed 
in  1878,  he  gives 
a  complete  survey 
(the  first)  of  the 
Isla  Mujeres,  locat- 
ing the  ancient 
buildings,  the  shrine, 
or  temple,  formerly 
containing  the  idols 
spoken  of,  and  the 
"  altar."  A  valua- 
ble discovery  by  the 
Doctor  was  made 
there  of  a  terra-cotta 
female  figure,  which 
had  formed  the  front 
of  a  brasero,  or  incense-burner.  It  was  of  excellent  workman- 
ship, and  valuable,  not  only  from  this  fact,  but  owing  to  the 
extreme  rarity  of  works  of  the  ceramic  art  on  and  near  the 
peninsula  of  Yucatan. 

He  carefully  surveyed  the  ruins,  and  made  photographs  of 
the  "  temple,"   which  shows  that   it  has  suffered  from  the  hand 


TERRA-COTTA   FIGURE. 


NORTH   COAST   OF   YUCATAN.  I45 

of  time  since  the  visit  of  Stephens.  He,  however,  locates  it  at 
the  south  end  of  the  island,  while  Stephens  erroneously  places 
it  at  the  north.  The  building  is  of  stone,  twenty-eight  feet  long 
and  fifteen  deep ;  the  interior  is  divided  into  two  corridors,  the 
ceihng  has  the  triangular  arch,  and  it  gives  evidence  of  being 
the  work  of  the  builders  on  the  mainland.  Portions  of  the 
structure  have  been  used  for  building  purposes,  but  to-day, 
says  the  Doctor,  the  people  obtain  stone  from  a  large  ruined 
city  on  the  mainland  opposite  Mujeres,  where  they  go  with  fear 
and  trembling,  lest  they  should  meet  with  Indians  from  Tulum, 
and  be  made  prisoners.  "  A  very  happy  confirmation  of  the 
statement  of  Diaz  that  these  people  burned  incense  was  made 
here.  Desiring  to  varnish  some  negatives,  in  order  to  carry 
them  safely  home,  I  put  some  live  coals  in  the  bottom  of  the 
incense  burner,  and  entered  the  shrine  to  be  protected  from 
the  wind  ;  when  lo  !  a  slight  vapor  arose  from  among  the  coals, 
and  a  sweet,  delicious  perfume  filled  again  the  antique  shrine  as 
in  the  days  of  its  splendor,  when  the  devotees  and  pilgrims  from 
afar  used  to  make  their  offerings,  and  burn  the  mixture,  care- 
fully prepared,  of  styrax,  copal,  and  other  aromatic  resins,  on 
the  altar  of  the  goddess." 

The  ancient  inhabitants  of  Yucatan  and  the  coasts  of  Mexico 
made  great  use  of  the  gums  of  storax,  and  copal  as  incense. 

Says  the  chronicler  of  Grijalva's  expedition  (15 17),  speaking 
of  their  visit  to  the  temple  in  Cozumel,  "  While  they  were  at 
the  top  of  the  tower  an  old  Indian  put  in  a  vase  with  very  odor- 
iferous perfumes,  which  seemed  of  storax;  he  burned  many 
perfumes  before  the  idols  which  were  in  the  tower,  and  sang  in 
a  loud  voice  a  song,  which  was  always  in  the  same  tune." 

An  historian  of  Yucatan,  Landa,  says:  "The  very  travellers 
carried  incense  with  them  in  a  small  dish.  At  night,  wherever 
they  arrived,  they  placed  together  three  small  stones,  deposit- 
ing upon  them  grains  of  incense." 

The  Spaniards,  in  their  first  voyages  to  these  coasts,  found  it 
the  custom  to  fumigate  all  strangers,  and  burn  odorous  gums 
before  the  idols  in  the  temples.  One  of  the  complaints  of  an 
early  voyager  was  against  this  prevailing  custom,  for  he  was 


146 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


often  nearly  choked  by  the  fumes,  odoriferous  though  they  were. 
This  was  not  done,  probably,  to  kill  any  germ  of  infectious  dis- 
ease which  the  stranger  might  have  about  him,  but  as  a  token 
of  respect.  The  soldiers  of  Cortes  were  at  first  much  flattered, 
because  they  fancied  themselves  saluted  as  gods  by  this  token 
of  homage.  In  the  churches,  at  the  present  day,  native  gums 
ar«  burned  in  the  censers.     This   discovery,   on  the  coast  of 


FRONT  OF   "INCENSE   BURNER. 


Yucatan  and  British  Honduras,  of  braseros,  or  incense  burners, 
confirms  the  truth  of  those  statements  of  the  historians. 

The  northern  and  eastern  shores,  especially  the  latter,  are 
dotted  with  ruins ;  a  cordon  of  ruined  villages,  cities,  temples, 
and  palaces  is  drawn  along  the  coast.  None  more  interesting 
has  been  described  than  the  city  of  Tulum,  which  Stephens 
identifies,  with   much  show  of  reason  in  his  support,  with  the 


NORTH   COAST   OF  YUCATAN.  I47 

great  cities  of  lime  and  stone  seen  by  the  first  Spanish  visitors. 
Here  he  found  a  grand  "  castle  "  and  extensive  buildings,  some 
with  roofs  of  beams  still  supporting  a  crust  of  mortar.  Buried 
in  a  dense  forest,  he  found  sculptured  stones,  altars,  watch- 
towers,  paintings,  stucco-work,  and  buildings  of  a  beautiful  style 
of  architecture.  The  whole  northeastern  portion  of  Yucatan  is 
a  wilderness,  a  section  of  country  that  was  once  teeming  with 
people,  and  full  of  populous  cities. 

From  this  long  detour  northward,  let  us  return  once  more  to 
Puntas  Arenas,  where  I  left  my  friend  Alonzo  ready  to  renew 
the  search  for  flamingoes.  He  was  determined  to  find  some, 
and  to  put  me  within  gunshot  of  them,  even  if  we  had  to  go  to 
the  Rio  Lagartos,  fifteen  leagues  away ;  for  he  had  promised 
the  Consul  he  would.  But  I  was  determined  to  leave  for  Dilam 
and  civilization,  as  by  another  day's  delay  I  might  miss  the 
steamer  down  the  coast,  and  be  hindered  another  week  in  my 
journey  to  Mexico.  Finding  me  obdurate,  he  yielded  grace- 
fully, and  to  his  already  numerous  favors  added  the  crowning 
one  of  giving  me  his  horse  to  ride,  while  he  returned  to  the 
rancho.  Then  he  embraced  and  patted  me  on  the  back,  com- 
mended me  to  the  old  Indian  who  had  been  our  guide,  and 
started  on  his  walk  of  three  leagues  to  the  rancho,  while  I  turned 
his  horse's  head  westward,  and  we  parted  to  meet  no  more. 

My  guide,  a  withered  and  wrinkled  old  man,  mounted  astride  a 
little  stallion,  between  two  packs,  and  his  legs  hanging  down  by 
the  horse's  neck,  led  the  way.  I  thought  my  misfortunes  ended  ; 
but  this  was  an  ill-starred  trip,  for  we  had  not  been  ten  minutes  on 
the  trail  before  my  horse  got  stuck  in  the  soft  mud  of  the  shore, 
and,  rearing  up,  fell  over  on  me,  pinning  one  leg  in  the  soft  ooze. 
How  I  escaped  from  the  wildly-floundering  animal  is  something  I 
do  not  understand  to  this  day ;  but  I  remember  scrambling  over 
the  mud  sidewise  like  a  crab,  on  hands  and  knees,  and  afterward 
picking  up  cartridges,  silver,  and  a  broken  watch-chain,  while  my 
guide  captured  the  horse.  After  being  scraped,  I  again  mounted, 
experiencing  much  trouble  after  this,  for  the  horse,  made  fearful 
by  his  fall,  snorted  and  fell  to  trembling  at  every  soft' place  in 
the  sand.     At  the  frequent  sloughs  I  was  obliged  to  dismount 


148  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

and  pound  the  horse  with  the  branch  of  a  tree  from  behind, 
while  the  old  Indian  dragged  him  ahead  from  in  front.  There 
were  two  long  leagues  of  this  kind  of  travelling,  and  we  were 
much  rejoiced  when  some  straggling  huts  announced  the  ap- 
proach to  the  seaport  of  Dilam.  A  large  portion  of  the  way 
was  through  a  mangrove  forest,  where  I  had  good  opportuni- 
ties for  studying  this  peculiar  tree,  noticing  how  it  sent  out 
and  down  its  aerial  roots  for  a  foothold  in  the  water  and  at  the 
border  of  the  sea,  and  the  entire  absence  of  such  adventitious 
shoots  back  a  little  distance  on  firm  land. 

At  the  Puerta  —  a  collection  of  thatched  houses  and  a  half- 
completed  church  —  we  sought  for  breakfast,  and,  seeing  a 
fine-looking  girl  in  a  doorway,  with  a  tray  of  fruit  on  her  head, 
I  asked  if  we  could  get  it  there.  She  said  yes,  and  gave  me 
some  tortillas  and  frijoles;  but  the  table  was  destitute  of  plate, 
knife,  or  spoon,  though  it  was  clean.  After  breakfast  I  re- 
clined in  a  hammock  in  an  inner  room,  while  the  young  girl 
swung  in  another  a  few  feet  distant,  with  a  plump  babe  of  a 
year  or  so  in  her  lap.  She  was  hardly  fourteen,  large  and  finely 
formed,  with  lovely  oval  face,  and  large  dark  eyes.  She  looked 
so  young  and  childlike,  despite  her  maturity  and  maternity,  that 
I  could  hardly  believe  her  the  mother  of  such  a  bouncing  child, 
and  asked  if  it  were  really  hers.  "  St,  sefior,"  she  answered, 
slowly  raising  the  lashes  from  her  beautiful  eyes,  "  es  inio,"  —  "  it 
is  mine,"  —  and  she  added,  with  a  charming  frankness  that  aston- 
ished me,  "And  yours  too  if  you  will  accept  it."  I  had  intended 
saying  something  neat  in  compliment  before  I  got  this  answer, 
but  such  an  excess  of  politeness  as  an  offer  of  a  joint  interest 
in  a  child  I  had  never  seen  before  that  hour  fairly  overwhelmed 
me,  and  I  silently  withdrew,  settled  my  bill,  mounted,  and  rode 
away. 

The  two  leagues  between  the  port  and  Dilam  proper  were 
soon  gone  over,  and  I  slept  that  night  in  the  casa  of  Don  Juan 
elviejo,  —  of  Mr.  John  the  old  man.  ^^ Manana  temprano''  was 
the  order  I  gave  my  Indian  for  the  morrow,  and  for  a  wonder 
he  appeared  at  daylight.  It  rained  at  intervals  as  we  rode 
towards  Timax,  but  the  air  was  pure,  and  sweet  with  the  odors 


NORTH   COAST   OF   YUCATAN.  I49 

of  flowers,  and  the   many  birds   in   the  thickets  enhvened  our 
journey,  so  that  we  arrived  at  our  destination  without  fatigue. 

I  was  in  season  to  go  the  rounds  with  the  Doctor  among  his 
patients  of  the  village,  and  was  pleased  to  find  that  he  had  lost 
but  three  during  my  absence,  and  had  only  two  in  a  critical 
condition.  One  man,  who  had  been  expected  to  die  of  a  pro- 
tracted debauch,  the  Doctor  had  physicked  in  vain,  and  this 
morning  he  mixed  up  some  powerful  calomel  pills,  quietly  re- 
marking, "  If  these  don't  do  the  business,  that  Indian  will  pass 
in  his  checks  before  noon."  They  did  not  kill  him,  and  my 
friend  thereby  added  another  laurel  to  his  wreath,  and  had  an- 
other convalescent  to  extend  his  fame  as  a  medico.  I  could  not 
refrain  from  reciting  those  classic  lines  of  the  poet:  — 

"  They  prepared  some  pills  of  hydrargyrum, 
And  their  patient  travelled  to  kingdom  come." 

The  last  day  of  my  stay  the  doctor-naturalist  arranged  for 
a  grand  poo,  or  turkey  hunt,  and  early  in  the  morning,  after 
giving  his  patients  some  quieting  medicines,  we  galloped  out  to 
a  rancho,  ten  miles  distant.  It  was  almost  entirely  abandoned, 
being  solely  in  charge  of  Indians.  The  mayoral,  or  head  man, 
had  on,  like  all  the  rest,  simply  a  breech-cloth,  hat,  and  san- 
dals, and  carried  a  machete,  or  great  knife.  His  skin  was  hard, 
brown,  and  polished.  These  poor  people  had  nothing  to  eat 
except  roots  from  the  woods  and  what  animals  they  could  kill. 
The  corn  crop  of  this  year  had  failed,  and  half  the  population 
of  Eastern  Yucatan  were  subsisting  on  roots,  small  game,  liz- 
ards, and  snakes.  Speculators  had  got  control  of  American 
corn,  and  many  people  were  starving  in  consequence,  though 
every  steamer  from  the  United  States  was  bringing  vast  quanti- 
ties to  Progreso,  and  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  in  many  of 
the  interior  States  of  Mexico  corn  was  selling  at  twenty  cents 
per  bushel. 

We  waited  an  hour  under  a  big  ceibo  tree,  while  an  Indian 
knocked  down  some  coco  nuts,  and  brought  us  pawpaw  fruits 
as  large  as  pumpkins,  which  tasted  like  muskmelons.  Then  we 
were  taken  across  a  large  milpa,  or  cornfield,  in  the  blazing  sun, 


ISO 


TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 


and  posted  in  a  wood,  while  our  Indians  ranged  about  to  beat 
up  the  game.  In  the  dry,  dead  woods,  which  in  this  dry  season 
much  resemble  our  Northern  forests  in  autumn,  we  waited  for 
hours.  My  only  visitors  were  a  brown  and  golden  humming- 
bird,   a   chachalaka,    and   some    inquisitive    blue-jays ;    but  the 

Doctor  got  a  shot  at  a 
flying  gobbler,  which 
escaped;  and  that 
ended  the  hunt.  We 
walked  back  to  the 
rancho  in  the  heat,  cov- 
ered with  garrapatas, 
ticks  that  are  so  small 
as  to  be  hardly  visible, 
yet  bite  like  red  ants. 
In  the  evening  we 
strolled  through  the 
town,  seeing  many 
pretty  faces,  as  at  that 
time  the  ladies  appear, 
and  sit  in  their  door- 
ways, and  chat  and 
smoke. 

The  next  morning 
the  Indians  brought 
in  three  turkeys,  the 
result  of  our  inciting 
them  to  hunt  for  them, 
and  among  them  was 
one  fine  old  gobbler, 
whose  plumage  was  resplendent  with  sheen  of  polished  copper 
and  gold,  who  had  two  buckshot  through  the  lungs.  This  was 
undoubtedly  the  one  the  Doctor  had  shot,  and  which  the  wily 
Indians  had  tracked  to  its  hiding-place  after  our  departure. 
This  magnificent  bird,  representing  the  finest  of  his  race,  the 
Doctor  presented  to  me  as  a  souvenir  of  the  occasion ;  his 
assistant  aided  me  in  skinning  and  preserving  it,  and  it  is  now 


FRUIT-SKLLEK    OF    YUCATAN. 


NORTH   COAST   OF   YUCATAN.  15I 

in  the  fine  collection  of  Wheaton  Seminary,  at  Norton,  Massa- 
chusetts. My  friend  had  a  "  corner"  on  these  ocellated  turkeys, 
having  killed  and  bought  over  one  hundred.  All  were  shipped 
to  Paris,  to  a  large  dealer  in  bird  skins,  who  supplied  the  mu- 
seums of  Europe.  Never  before  had  so  many  been  sent  to  the 
museums,  though  even  now  there  are  not  a  dozen  in  the  United 
States. 

Since  my  departure,  the  Doctor  has  returned  to  his  home  in 
the  North.  If  he  can  be  prevailed  upon  to  prepare  his  adven- 
tures for  publication,  the  record  of  his  three  years'  sojourn 
in  the  solitary  forests  of  Yucatan,  the  world  will  be  delighted 
with  the  richest  mine  of  sylvan  and  aboriginal  lore  ever  opened 
to  the  public. 

The  events  above  narrated  occurred  in  1881.  Two  years  later, 
I  unexpectedly  met  my  friend  in  New  Mexico,  and  passed  a 
week  with  him  in  a  cosy  log  cabin  which  he  had  erected  in  a 
caiion,  nine  miles  above  the  ancient  city  of  Santa  Fe.  There  I 
saw,  a  thousand  miles  distant  from  their  habitat,  many  of  the 
animals  (in  skins  and  feathers)  which  we  had  collected  in  the 
wilds  of  Yucatan ;  I  slept  in  the  same  hammock,  and  upon 
the  same  tiger-skin ;  and  our  talk,  as  we  lay  awake  at  night, 
was  almost  exclusively  of  the  historic  peninsula  and  its  delight- 
ful inhabitants. 

The  correo,  or  mail-coach,  left  at  two  in  the  afternoon  for 
Merida,  with  myself  and  two  Yucatecos  as  passengers.  In 
learning  that  they  were  Yucatecos  I  naturally  inferred  that  they 
were  gentlemen,  as  they  were,  and  that  they  would  linger  at 
every  possible  point  on  the  road,  which  they  did,  first  at  2i  fiesta, 
where  there  had  been  a  bull-fight,  corrida  de  toros,  and  then 
at  a  dance.  We  reached  the  town  house  of  the  General  just  in 
time  for  dinner,  stayed  with  him  an  hour  or  two,  parted  from 
him  with  an  affectionate  embrace,  and  arrived  at  Motul  at  dark. 
Here  my  companions  ordered  supper,  refusing  to  let  me  pay 
for  it,  or  share  in  the  expense,  saying  that  I  was  a  stranger 
and  their  companion,  and  that  it  was  their  duty  to  see  me 
through. 

We  changed  mules  at  Motul,  and  galloped  nearly  the  whole 


152 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


distance  to  Merida,  stopping  now  and  then  to  stretch  our  hmbs 
and  smoke.  As  there  were  four  of  us,  including  the  driver,  the 
volan  was  full.  There  was  no  room  for  reclining,  and  we  were 
cramped  in  unnatural  positions  throughout  the  long  twenty 
leagues.  It  was  one  o'clock  in  the  morning,  by  the  dim  light 
of  a  waning  moon,  that  we  entered  the  suburbs  of  the  capital, 
and  waked  the  echoes  of  the  silent  streets  by  driving  furiously 
to  the  Plaza. 


BOOK     II. 


CENTRAL  AND  SOUTHERN  MEXICO. 


"  Thou  Italy  of  the  Occident ! 
Land  of  flowers  and  summer  climes, 
Of  holy  priests  and  horrid  crimes  ; 
Land  of  the  cactus  and  sweet  cocoa ; 
Richer  than  all  the  Orient 
In  gold  and  glory,  in  want  and  woe, 
In  self-denial,  in  days  misspent. 
In  truth  and  treason,  in  good  and  guilt, 
In  ivied  ruins  and  altars  low. 
In  battered  walls  and  blood  misspilt ; 
Glorious,  gory  Mexico  !" 


IX. 


PALENQUE    AND    THE    PHANTOM    CITY. 

A  S  part  and  portion  of  the  great  republic  of  Mexico,  the 
-^^^  distant  province  of  Yucatan  deserves  more  than  the  mere 
mention  it  usually  gets  from  passing  travellers ;  but,  lying  as  it 
does  on  the  way  between  two  great  countries  whose  centres  are 
eagerly  sought,  it  is  generally  passed  by.  Differing  essentially 
from  the  dominant  States  in  everything  relating  to  soil,  agricul- 
ture, aspect  of  surface,  and  even  the  character  and  manners  of 
its  people,  it  merits  a  volume  by  itself,  instead  of  these  few 
chapters.  Passing  in  review  the  forty  days  passed  in  Yucatan,  I 
confess  myself  fairly  in  love  with  its  people.  This  was  the  senti- 
ment with  which  I  left  its  territory,  and  which  time  and  subse- 
quent experiences  have  only  strengthened. 

Without  mentioning  any  other  quality  than  their  universal 
honesty,  I  declare  this  in  itself  enough  to  excite  the  admiration 
of  any  traveller.  To  be  able  to  journey,  as  I  did,  over  many 
leagues  of  country  unarmed,  to  be  able  to  leave  one's  portable 
property  exposed  wherever  one  stopped,  without  a  thought  of  it 
till  one's  destination  was  reached,  assured  that  it  would  arrive  in 
safety,  is  enough  to  cause  any  man  in  his  senses  to  hold  these 
people  in  affectionate  remembrance.  On  the  eve  of  departure, 
then,  I  would  extend  to  them  the  hand  of  friendship,  —  ay,  of 
affection ;  with  the  assurance  that  one  stranger,  at  least,  will 
long  remember  their  many  amiable  traits. 

The  steamer  was  signalled ;  like  every  one  that  had  passed 
for  two  months,  it  was  full  of  engineers  for  the  great  railroads  of 
Mexico,  all  hurrying  forward  to  the  capital,  that  wonderful  city 
in  the  mountain  valley.  It  was  not  strange,  then,  that  I  should 
have  felt  impatient  to   join  that  eager  throng,  and  to   hasten 


156  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

onward,  where  the  pulse  of  human  activity  was  beating  more 
strongly. 

As  has  been  observed,  Yucatan  possesses  few  natural  attrac- 
tions in  the  shape  of  scenery,  and  its  coast  is  no  better  than  the 
interior;  low,  flat,  uninviting,  save  only  where  a  clump  of  palms 
rises  above  the  sands. 

Leaving  Progreso  in  the  evening,  the  next  morning  finds  us  off 
Campeche,  ten  miles  from  shore.  It  is  the  misfortune  of  this 
rather  famous  port  that  it  has  no  harbor,  —  that,  in  fact,  no  vessel 
of  any  considerable  size  can  approach  within  five  miles  of  land. 
It  is  hence  difficult  to  say,  in  the  morning,  which  of  the  walled 
towns  glaring  white  on  shore  is  Campeche ;  but  as  the  sun  gets 
around  to  the  westward,  in  the  afternoon,  the  veritable  one  stands 
out,  like  a  city  of  marble,  against  hills  of  green.  Square  white 
buildings  are  then  plainly  visible,  and  cathedral  towers ;  and 
other  towns  shine  along  the  coast,  which  is  high,  and  apparently 
dotted  with  gardens.  According  to  the  Mexican  law,  the  steamer 
is  obliged  to  remain  at  least  twelve  hours  in  or  off  a  port,  and 
this  delay  gives  us  a  chance  to  take  a  peep  at  Campeche,  though 
through  another's  spectacles.  We  learn  that  it  is  a  finely  built 
city,  though  in  a  hot  and  not  over-healthy  locality.  The  char- 
acter of  the  surface  of  the  province  is  similar  to  that  of  Yucatan, 
though  rising  higher,  and  everywhere  may  be  found  peculiar 
subterraneos,  or  caverns.  The  city,  indeed,  is  built  above  some 
very  extensive  ones,  once  used  as  catacombs,  in  which  have 
been  found  mummies  and  idols. 

Below  Campeche  is  the  isolated  town  of  Champoton,  where 
occurred,  in  15  17,  the  bloodiest  battle  that  preceded  the  advent 
of  Cortes  upon  this  coast,  when  the  Indians  attacked  Cordova, 
and  killed  or  wounded  all  of  his  party  save  one.  Below  this 
deserted  country  is  the  Laguna  de  Terminos,  and  the  low,  un- 
healthy coast  region  famous  the  world  over  as  producing  vast 
quantities  of  logwood.  Carmen  is  the  headquarters  for  the  log- 
wood-cutters, situated  on  an  island  at  the  mouth  of  the  great 
lagoon  of  Terminos.  The  sculptured  tablet,  of  which  mention 
is  made  farther  on,  was  shipped  from  Carmen,  by  the  United 
States  consul  resident  there,  to  the  Smithsonian  Institution. 


PALENQUE   AND   THE   PHANTOM   CITY. 


157 


Leaving  Campeche,  the  steamer  moves  slowly  on  to  Frontera, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Tabasco,  which  once  bore,  and  ought 


1  Palace. 

2  Temple  of  the  Three  Tablets. 

3  Temple  of  the  Beau  Relief 


4  Temple  of  the  Cross. 

5  Temples  of  the  Sun. 

6  Ruined  Pyramids. 


7  Aqueduct. 

8  Ruins. 

9  Ruins. 


to  retain,  the   name  of  Grijalva,  who  discovered  it  in   15 18, — 
where  the  green  and  muddy  waters,  laden  with  the  branches  and 


158  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

trunks  of  trees,  proclaim  a  stream  of  great  volume,  draining  an 
area  covered  with  tropical  vegetation.  The  anchorage  is  six 
miles  off  a  low  and  densely-wooded  coast,  with  two  breaks  in 
it  where  the  river  comes  out  to  the  sea.  A  small  steamer  comes 
out  here,  which  takes  freight  and  passengers  to  the  coast  town, 
Frontera,  and  also  to  San  Juan  Bautista,  the  capital  city  of  Ta- 
basco, eighteen  leagues  up  the  river,  the  fare  to  shore  being  five 
dollars,  and  to  San  Juan  twelve. 

Another  point  of  historic  interest  now  claims  our  attention, 
for  here  it  was  that  Cortes  encountered  the  first  determined 
resistance  to  his  arms,  and  in  the  town,  which  he  subsequently 
captured,  he  obtained  that  treasure  so  precious  to  him  and  his 
army,  Marina,  the  Tabascan  princess.  Cortes  landed  here,  and, 
drawing  his  sword,  took  possession  of  the  country  in  the  name 
of  his  Majesty  the  King  of  Spain,  and  made  three  cuts  in  a  great 
ceiba  tree  (which  may  yet  be  standing,  for  they  live  to  a  great 
age)  in  witness  thereof,  declaring  himself  ready  to  defend  it, 
against  any  one  who  denied  his  Majesty's  claim,  with  the  sword 
and  shield  he  then  held.  A  terrible  battle  shortly  after  ensued, 
in  which  cavalry  were  first  used  on  the  soil  of  Mexico.  The 
Indians  fought  with  incredible  bravery,  until  Cortes  and  his  small 
body  of  horse  appeared  in  their  rear,  when  they  were  panic- 
stricken,  thinking  horse  and  rider  one  fearful  being,  and  fled  in 
dismay.  It  was  on  this  occasion  that  there  appeared  (according 
to  the  historian  Gomara)  the  glorious  apostle  St.  James,  riding 
on  a  dappled  horse.  Honest  old  Bernal  Diaz,  whose  narrative 
I  am  following,  says  he  did  not  see  this  apparition.  But  he 
adds,  "Although  I,  unworthy  sinner  that  I  am,  was  unfit  to 
behold  either  of  those  holy  apostles  (St.  Peter  and  St.  James), 
upwards  of  four  hundred  of  us  were  present ;  let  their  testimony 
be  taken." 

After  the  Indians  had  tendered  their  submission,  they  were 
shown  the  horses,  and  when  struck  by  their  neighing  were  told 
that  these  wonderful  creatures  were  angry  because  they  had 
fought  against  them.  The  innocent  natives  then  craved  their 
pardon,  and  offered  them  turkey-hens  and  roses  to  eat,  as  did  the 
Indians  of  Peten  some  years  later. 


PALENQUE   AND   THE   PHANTOM   CITY.  159 

By  sailing  up  the  river  Tabasco,  a  point  may  be  reached,  in 
the  season  of  high  water,  whence  a  journey  of  two  days  over- 
land will  bring  one  to  those  grandest  of  Mexican  ruins,  the 
group  of  Palenque;  and  it  is  but  a  few  days'  travel  to  Chia- 
pas and  the  Pacific. 

"  Unlike  Copan,  yet  buried,  too,  'mid  trees, 
Upspringing  there  for  sumless  centuries, 
Behold  a  royal  city,  vast  and  lone, 
Lost  to  each  race,  to  all  the  world  unknown, 
Like  famed  Pompeii,  'neath  her  lava  bed. 
Till  chance  unveiled  the  'City  of  the  Dead.' 
Palenque  !  ^  seat  of  kings  !  as  o'er  the  plain, 
Clothed  with  thick  copse,  the  traveller  toils  with  pain, 
Climbs  the  rude  mound  the  shadowy  scene  to  trace, 
He  views  in  mute  surprise  thy  desert  grace. 
At  every  step  some  palace  meets  his  eye, 
Some  figure  frowns,  some  temple  courts  the  sky: 
It  seems  as  if  that  hour  the  verdurous  earth. 
By  genii  struck,  had  given  these  fabrics  birth, 
Save  that  old  Time  hath  flung  his  darkening  pall 
On  each  tree-shaded  tower  and  pictured  wall." 

The  poet  has  not  exaggerated  the  beauties  of  Palenque,  nor 
has  pen  yet  adequately  described  them :  they  are  indescriba- 
ble. The  buildings  are  situated  eight  miles  from  the  small  vil- 
lage of  Palenque,  and,  though  Cortes  must  have  passed  quite  near 
them  on  his  march  to  Honduras,  in  1524,  neither  he  nor  his  gar- 
rulous companion,  Diaz,  makes  mention  of  them,  and  it  was  not 
till  1750  that  they  were  discovered. 

In  1787  they  were  explored,  by  order  of  the  king  of  Spain, 
by  Captain  Antonio  del  Rio,  whose  report  was  only  finally  pub- 
Hshed  in  London  in  1822.  In  1807  they  were  investigated  by 
Captain  Dupaix,  at  the  instance  of  Charles  IV.  of  Spain ;  but 
his  laborious  work  was  not  given  to  the  light  till  1834-35,  i" 
Paris.  It  is  to  the  American  traveller,  J.  L.  Stephens,  that  we 
owe  the  best  account  of  their  present  appearance,  this  gentle- 
man having  visited  them  in  1839-40,  when  on  his  way,  for  the 
first  time,  to  Yucatan. 

In  Palenque  we  find  those  mounds,  or  terraced  hillocks,  upon 

^  Pronounced  Pa-len-kay. 


i6o 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


which  the  buildings  are  erected,  high  and  of  vast  dimensions. 
The  "Palace"  is  the  grandest  structure,  and  is  238  feet  in  length 
by  180  feet  deep,  while  its  height  is  but  25  feet.  It  stands  on 
an  artificial  elevation  of  oblong  shape,  40  feet  high,  310  feet 
front,  and  260  feet  at  each  end.  It  was  constructed  of  stone, 
with  a  mortar  of  lime  and  sand,  and  the  whole  front  was  cov- 
ered with  stucco,  and  painted  in  red,  blue,  yellow,  black,  and 
white.     Another  building,  the  Casa  de  Piedras,  is  situated  in  a 


PALENQUE    RESTORED. 


similar  position  to  the  Casa  del  Adivino  in  Uxmal,  on  a  pyram- 
idal structure,  no  feet  high  on  the  slope;  and  is  "remarkably 
rich  in  stucco,  bas-reliefs,  and  tablets  of  hieroglyphics." 

These  hieroglyphics,  says  Stephens,  "  are  the  same  ( ?)  as 
were  found  at  Copan  and  Quirigua.  The  intermediate  country 
is  now  occupied  by  races  of  Indians  speaking  many  different 
languages,  and  entirely  unintelligible  to  each  other;  but  there 
is  room  for  the  belief  that  the  whole  of  this  country  was  once 
occupied  by  the  same  race,  speaking  the  same  language,  or  at 
least  having  the  same  written  characters." 

It  would  not  be  out  of  place  here  to  introduce  the  specula- 


PALENQUE   AND   THE   PHANTOM    CITY.  i6l 

tions  of  the  French  naturaHst,  Morelet,  upon  the  ruins  and  the 
people  who  once  occupied  them:  "The  analogy  can  no  longer 
be  denied  between  these  ruins  and  the  monuments  of  Mexico, 
which  tradition  attributes  to  the  Toltecs.  These  comparisons 
show  the  action  and  preponderance  of  a  common  race  over  the 
whole  territory  lying  between  Cape  Catoche  (Yucatan)  and  the 
Mexican  table-land We  find  that  the  Toltecs,  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  seventh  century,  were  in  possession  of  Anahuac,  where 
civilization  probably  developed  itself.  Later  they  abandoned 
this  region  and  emigrated  in  a  southeasterly  direction,  —  that  is 
to  say,  into  the  provinces  of  Oaxaca  and  Chiapas.  It  is  easy 
enough,  therefore,  to  arrive  at  the  conclusion  that  Palenque  was 
founded  at  this  time  (?),  and  was  consequently  contemporaneous 
with  Mitla  (in  Oaxaca).  Says  Herrera:  '  While  the  inhabitants 
of  Mayapan  (Yucatan)  lived  in  peace  and  prosperity,  there 
arrived  from  the  south,  from  the  heights  of  Lacandon,  a  large 
number  of  people,  originally  from  Chiapas,  who,  after  having 
wandered  forty  years  in  the  wilderness,  finally  settled  ten  leagues 
from  Mayapan,  at  the  base  of  the  mountains,  where  they  built 
magnificent  edifices  and  conformed  to  the  customs  of  the  coun- 
try  If  the  undisputed  analogy  be  considered  which  exists 

between  the  ancient  monuments  of  Mexico  and  the  ruins  of 
Palenque,  and  between  the  latter  and  those  of  Yucatan,  and  if 
we  consider  also  the  geographical  position  of  these  ruins,  spread 
over  the  line  of  Toltec  emigration,  and  bearing  evidence  of  an- 
tiquity, the  more  marked  because  they  are  less  distant  from  the 
point  of  departure,  —  if  all  these  be  considered,  it  will  doubtless 
be  granted  that  these  different  works  were  from  the  hands  of 
the  same  people  who  successively  built  Tula,  Mitla,  Palenque, 
Mayapan,  and  all  the  edifices  now  in  ruins  on  this  peninsula." 

Perhaps  it  will  seem  to  later  investigators  more  in  accordance 
with  discoveries,  recent  and  in  the  past,  to  ascribe  to  Palenque 
the  honor  of  being  the  original  starting-place  of  the  Toltecs. 
We  should  then  read,  as  cities  built  in  the  order  named,  Palen- 
que, Mayapan,  Mitla,  Tula,  &c. ;  and  we  should  also  infer  a 
greater  antiquity  than  the  above-cited  writer  assumes,  and  hold 
that,  though  the  first  intimation  of  the  Toltecs  is  as  moving  from 


l62 


TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 


the  north  southward,  yet  they  may  have  primarily  emigrated 
northward  from  Palenque,  in  ages  past,  now  lost  in  obscurity, 
from  which  they  only  emerge  in  historic  times  as  returning  to 
their  former  home. 

We  are  all,  presuma- 
bly, acquainted  with  the 
relation,  by  the  learned 
Brasseur  de  Bourbourg, 
of  the  native  tradition  of 
Votan.  This  personage, 
accompanied  by  chiefs 
and  followers,  landed, 
many  years  before  the 
opening  of  the  Christian 
era,  upon  the  shores  of 
the  Laguna  de  Termi- 
nos.  He  ascended  the 
great  Usumacinta  River, 
a  tributary  of  the  Ta- 
basco, and  near  one  of 
its  afifluents  laid  the  foun- 
dations of  a  large  city, 
which  became  the  me- 
tropolis of  a  mighty 
empire.  It  was  called 
Nachan,  the  city  of  ser- 
pents, and  was  none 
other  than  the  beautiful 
Palenque,  whose  ruins  alone  we  now  gaze  upon. 

Alas  for  the  vanity  of  human  speculation  and  the  insecurity 
of  tradition  !  Theories,  as  I  have  previously  remarked  some- 
where, are  almost  as  various  as  the  writers  and  investigators 
who  have  studied  these  ruins.  There  seems,  however,  to  be  a 
general  belief  that  this  region  was  the  seat  of  a  vast  and  influ- 
ential theocratic  empire.  Upon  the  walls  are  sculptures  which 
speak  to  us  in  an  unknown  language,  hieroglyphics,  and  the 
chiselled  types  of  a  people  long  since  departed.     Regarding 


STUCCO   ORNAMENT. 


PALENQUE   AND   THE   PHANTOM   CITY.  163 

these,  again,  a  writer  of  the  early  part  of  this  century,  Galindo, 
says:  "The  physiognomies  of  the  human  figure  in  alto-relievo 
indicate  that  they  represent  a  race  not  differing  from  the  mod- 
ern Indians ;  they  were,  perhaps,  taller  than  the  latter,  who  are 
of  a  middle,  or  rather  small  stature,  compared  with  Europeans. 
There  are  also  found  among  the  ruins  stones  for  grinding  maize, 
shaped  exactly  like  those  employed  to-day  by  the  Central  Ameri- 
can and  Mexican  Indians.  They  consist  of  a  stone  slab  {metatl^ 
with  three  feet,  all  made  from  one  piece,  and  a  stout  stone  roller, 
with  which  the  women  crush  the  maize  on  the  slab.  Though 
the  Maya  language  is  not  spoken  in  all  its  purity  in  this  neigh- 
borhood, I  am  of  opinion  that  it  was  derived  from  the  ancient 
people  that  left  these  ruins,  and  that  it  is  one  of  the  ancient  lan- 
guages of  America.  It  is  still  used  by  most  of  the  Indians,  and 
even  by  the  other  inhabitants  of  the  eastern  part  of  Tabasco, 
Peten,  and  Yucatan.  Books  are  printed  in  Maya  (the  language 
of  Yucatan)  and  the  clergy  preach  and  confess  the  Indians  in 
the  same  language." 

These  observations  are  thrown  out,  not  to  impede  the  progress 
of  the  reader,  but  to  stimulate  thought  upon  a  subject  which  is 
constantly  demanding  and  receiving  increased  attention  from 
European,  as  well  as  from  American  scholars.  In  a  ruined 
structure  known  as  "  Casa  Number  Two  "  —  it  is  needless  to  say 
that  this  is  not  the  name  bestowed  by  its  builders  —  is  a  portion 
of  the  famous  sculpture  known  as  the  "  Palenque  Tablet,"  con- 
taining the  figure  of  the  cross,  about  which  archaeologists  have 
wrangled  long  and  bitterly.  A  curious  history  pertains  to  this 
slab,  which,  so  far  as  is  known,  is  as  follows.  It  was  described 
and  figured  by  Del  Rio  in  1787,  and  subsequently  by  all  who 
visited  the  ruins,  —  Dupaix,  Waldeck,  Stephens,  Charnay.  In 
1842,  a  portion  of  the  sculptured  slab  was  sent  to  the  United 
States,  where  it  now  finds  a  resting-place  in  the  National  Museum 
at  Washington.  This  portion  is  that  represented  in  the  right  of 
the  engraving,  as  containing  the  carven  glyphs,  and  situated  back 
of  the  human  figure  making  the  offering  to  the  bird  on  the  cross 
(see  restored  representation  of  the  Palenque  Cross,  taken  from 
the  Report).      To   Professor  Rau,  of  the  Smithsonian   Institu- 


164  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

tion,^  we  are  indebted  for  the  restoration  of  the  sculpture  as  it 
must  have  originally  appeared  in  the  "  Sanctuary  of  the  Cross," 
at  Palenque.  So  that,  through  his  diligent  labors,  though  one 
portion  of  this  valuable  sculpture  was  torn  by  vandal  hands  from 
its  place  and  sent  to  the  United  States,  and  another  lies  buried 
beneath  the  mould  of  the  Tabascan  forest,  while  but  one  third 
remains  affixed  in  its  original  position  in  the  wall,  an  exact 
picture  of  this  great  work  as  a  whole  is  now  placed  before  the 
readers  of  this  volume.  The  description  of  it  by  Stephens  is 
perhaps  as  good  as  any.  "  The  principal  subject  of  this  tablet 
is  the  cross.  It  is  surmounted  by  a  strange  bird,  and  loaded 
with  indescribable  ornaments.  The  two  figures  are  evidently 
those  of  important  personages.  They  are  well  drawn,  and  in 
symmetry  of  proportion  are  perhaps  equal  to   many  that  are 

carved  on  the  walls  of  the  temples  of  Egypt Both  are 

looking  towards  the  cross,  and  one  seems  in  the  act  of  making 
an  offering,  perhaps  of  a  child ;  all  speculations  on  the  subject 
are  of  course  entitled  to  little  regard,  but  perhaps  it  would  not 
be  wrong  to  ascribe  to  these  personages  a  sacerdotal  character. 
The  hieroglyphics  doubtless  explain  all.  Near  them  are  other 
hieroglyphics,  which  remind  us  of  the  Egyptian  mode  for  record- 
ing the  name,  history,  office,  or  character  of  the  persons  repre- 
sented. This  tablet  of  the  cross  has  given  rise  to  more  learned 
speculation  than  perhaps  any  others  found  at  Palenque." 

We  will  not  go  into  these  speculations  regarding  the  pre-  or 
post-Columbian  introduction  of  the  cross  into  America,  further 
than  to  mention  that  every  evidence  tends  to  prove  the  former ; 
although  we  may  not,  perhaps,  subscribe  to  the  statement  of  a 
certain  author,  that  it  was  originally  brought  here  by  St.  Thomas, 
who  is  said  to  have  preached  to  the  Mexican  heathen  away  back 
in  the  by-gones. 

Professor  Rau  published  an  interesting  comparison  between 
the  glyphs  sculptured  on  the  Tablet  of  the  Cross  and  the  sym- 
bols of  the  celebrated  "  Maya  alphabet"  of  Landa,  one  of  the 
first  bishops  of  Yucatan.      He  found  many  points  of  contact 

1  "The  Palenque  Tablet,"  —  Smithsonian  Contributions  to  Knowledge, — by 
Charles   Rau.     Washington,  1879. 


g£|v^ 


PALENQUE   AND   THE   PHANTOM  CITY. 


167 


between  the  two,  and  such  differences  as  would  naturally  arise 
between  the  writing  of  a  language  at  epochs  perhaps  thousands 
of  years  apart.  Regarding  the  stucco  ornaments,  which  are 
characteristic  of  Palenque,  Stephens  says :  "  The  roof  (of  the 
Temple  of  the  Cross)  shows  two  slopes,  the  lower  one  of  which 
was  richly  ornamented  with  stucco  figures,  plants,  and  flowers, 
but  mostly  ruined.  Among  them  were  the  fragments  of  a  beau- 
tiful head  and  of  two  bodies,  in  justness  of  proportion  and  sym- 
metry approaching  the  Greek  models."  The  building  containing 
this  treasure,  the  Tablet,  is  on  a  pyramid  134  feet  high  on  the 


TEMPLE   OF   THE    CROSS. 


slope,  from  the  top  of  which  a  view  extends,  over  a  vast  forest, 
to  the  Laguna  de  Terminos  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

The  country  southwest  of  Yucatan,  that  portion  of  Guatemala 
west  of  the  British  colony  of  Belize,  south  of  Campeche,  and 
east  of  Chiapas  and  Tabasco,  is  an  almost  unexplored  region. 
Here  the  aboriginal  Indians  roam  with  all  the  freedom  of  their 
ancestors  before  Spanish  dominion.  Somewhere  in  this  wild 
region  is  situated  the  "  mysterious  city  "  described  by  Stephens 
and  Morelet,  said  to  have  walls  of  silver  which  glisten  so  that 
they  can  be  seen  one  hundred  miles  away,  and  to  be  still  occu- 


1 68 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


pied  by  the  descendants  of  its 
original  builders.  The  ruins  of 
former  races  may  be  traced 
throughout  all  Southern  Mexico, 
through  Oaxaca,  Chiapas,  Ta- 
basco, and  Yucatan,  until  they 
culminate  in  the  latter  State  in 
the  wonderful  structures  that  are 
the  amazement  of  the  present 
generation ;  but  all  are  silent 
cities, —  all  their  inhabitants  de- 
parted, hundreds,  perhaps  thou- 
sands, of  years  ago. 

But  here  is  said  to  be  a  veri- 
table aboriginal  city,  not  only 
preserving  its  own  people,  but 
retaining  all  the  ancient  customs 
and  rites  of  their  progenitors. 

This  is  a  region  more  worthy 
of  investigation  than  the  heart 
of  Africa.  To  find  the  key  to 
lost  arts  and  manufactures,  to 
find  a  people  still  preserving 
the  rites  of  sacrifice, —  this  were 
enough  to  incite  hundreds  to 
exploration. 

Unfortunately,  those  who  go 
in  never  return !  It  is  easy 
enough,  apparently,  to  pene- 
trate to  that  city,  but  no  one 
who  has  once  been  there  has 
ever  been  known  to  reach  the 
coast  again. 

On  the  borders  of  that  region 
is  the  wonderful  Lake  Peten, 
with  its  lovely  town  of  Flores,  on  an  island,  in  which  the  sim- 
ple inhabitants  set  up  an  effigy  of  a  horse  of  the  Spanish  con- 


STATUR    FROM    PALENQUE. 


PALENQUE   AND    THE   PHANTOM   CITY. 


169 


querors,  and  deified  it.  Now  what  are  the  facts  about  that 
city?  So  far  as  we  can  learn,  it  was  first  made  known  to  peo- 
ple outside  of  Mexico 
through  the  celebrated 
archaeologist,  Stephens. 
The  cura  of  Quiche,  an 
Indian  town  in  Guate- 
mala, told  him  that  he 
had  seen  it  from  the 
ridge  of  high  moun- 
tains visible  from  that 
very  place.  The  diffi- 
culties in  the  way  ap- 
palled even  an  intrepid 
traveller  like  Stephens, 
and  he  shrank  from  un- 
dertaking its  investiga- 
tion. That  he  firmly 
believed  this  story  is  ev- 
ident to  any  one  reading 
the  pages  of  his  books. 
Later  on,  he  sums  up 
the  result  of  his  explo- 
rations, and  says :  "  In 
fact,  I  conceive  it  to 
be  not  impossible  that 
within  this  secluded  re- 
gion may  exist  at  this 
day,  unknown  to  white 
men,  a  living,  aboriginal 
city,  occupied  by  relics 
of  the  ancient  race,  who 
still  worship  in  the  tem- 
ples of  their  fathers." 


STATUE   FROM   COPAN.^ 


^  A  ruined  city  of  Central  America,  on  the  Copan  River,  in  Honduras.  The 
ruins  extend  along  the  river  for  nearly  two  miles,  and  include  a  temple  624  feet 
long,  pyramidal  structures,  and  colossal  carven  idols  and  altar  stones. 


I/O  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

This  was  forty  years  ago.  A  few  years  later,  a  more  adven- 
turous traveller  than  Stephens,  Monsieur  Arthur  Morelet, 
entered  this  region  by  the  river  Usumacinta,  and  skirted  the 
border  of  that  supposed  centre  of  ancient  civilization.  Being 
alone,  his  adventures  are  of  a  more  fascinating  character  than 
those  of  Stephens,  who  seldom  departed  from  certain  lines  of 
travel.  He  plunged  at  once  into  the  dense  forests  that  sur- 
round the  territory  of  the  Lacandones,  travelling  from  the 
Gulf  coast  at  Laguna  de  Terminos  to  Lake  Peten,  thence  to 
Guatemala  (the  capital),  thence  to  the  Gulf  of  Honduras,  and 
home  via  Havana.  He  spent  several  years  in  that  country,  and 
evidently  believed  in  the  existence  of  the  "  mysterious  city." 

In  an  introduction  to  the  English  translation  of  the  book 
written  by  the  above-mentioned  traveller,  Mr.  E.  G.  Squier  thus 
speaks  of  this  region,  "  lying  between  Chiapas,  Tabasco,  Yuca- 
tan, and  the  republic  of  Guatemala,  and  comprising  a  consider- 
able portion  of  each  of  these  States,  which,  if  not  entirely  blank, 
is  only  conjecturally  filled  up.  with  mountains,  lakes,  and  rivers. 
It  is  almost  as  unknown  as  the  interior  of  Africa  itself.  We  only 
know  that  it  is  traversed  by  nameless  ranges  of  mountains, 
among  which  the  great  river  Usumacinta  gathers  its  waters 
from  a  thousand  tributaries,  before  pouring  them,  in  a  mighty 
flood,  into  the  Laguna  de  Terminos  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
....  Within  its  depths,  far  off  on  some  unknown  tributary  of 
the  Usumacinta,  the  popular  tradition  of  Guatemala  and  Chi- 
apas places  that  great  aboriginal  city,  with  its  white  walls  shin- 
ing like  silver  in  the  sun,  which  the  cura  of  Quich6  affirmed  he 
had  seen  with  his  own  eyes  from  the  tops  of  the  mountains  of 
Quezaltenango." 

But  did  the  endeavors  to  find  this  sacred  stronghold  cease 
with  Morelet?  By  no  means.  If  we  are  to  believe  a  Spanish 
memoir,  written  by  Don  Pedro  Velasquez,  of  Guatemala,  the 
stories  circulated  by  Stephens  stimulated  two  young  men  of 
Baltimore  to  set  out  on  an  expedition  for  its  discovery.  Pass- 
ing over  the  uneventful  period  of  their  voyage,  we  find  them 
at  last  on  the  borders  of  the  valley  containing  the  object  of 
their  search.     The  city  in  all  its  glory  of  glistening  walls  and 


PALENQUE   AND   THE   PHANTOM   CITY.  I/I 

magnificent  statuary  shone  before  them ;  they  entered  its  pre- 
cincts, after  a  skirmish  with  the  Indians,  and  saw  its  mysteries.  . 
Endeavoring  afterwards  to  escape,  one  of  them  was  sacrificed 
upon  the  high  altar  of  the  sun,  and  the  other  so  badly  wounded 
that  he  died  in  the  forests  of  Guatemala.  Only  Don  Velasquez 
and  a  few  trusty  guides  escaped  to  tell  the  story  of  their  peril- 
ous adventures.  This  was  thirty  years  ago,  since  which  time,  so 
far  as  we  can  learn,  no  successful  attempt  has  been  made.^ 

Imagine  what  a  stimulant  to  an  earnest  explorer  the  possible 
discovery  of  this  wonderful  city  offers  !  It  would  be  well  worth 
a  year  of  one's  life  even  to  look  upon  its  walls,  and  another  year 
would  be  a  cheap  purchase  of  a  glimpse  of  its  interior  and  peo- 
ple !  It  took  such  a  strong  hold  upon  the  writer,  that  he  nar- 
rowly missed  going  on  the  search  alone,  when,  in  1881,  he  found 
himself  on  the  borders  of  that  country,  in  Yucatan  and  in  South- 
ern Mexico.  Six  years  ago  he  was  in  correspondence  with  a 
well-known  scientist  in  relation  to  an  investigation  of  the  adja- 
cent country,  and  later  he  made  a  proposition  to  enter  that 
region,  and  to  devote  several  years  to  a  study  of  the  people 
inhabiting  it. 

It  is  his  firm  conviction  that  in  no  other  way  can  be  obtained 
the  clew  to  the  hieroglyphs  that  adorn  the  walls  of  those  ruins 
in  Yucatan  and  Guatemala.  In  no  other  way  can  we  hope  to 
obtain  a  knowledge  of  that  strange  people,  —  of  their  language, 
of  their  ancient  arts  and  systems  of  government. 

Unfortunately,  scientific  authority  did  not  coincide  with  the 
views  expressed,  or  rather  could  not  furnish  the  necessary  funds 
for  the  purpose,  and  the  writer  went  towards  South  America, 
where  he  remained  nearly  three  years,  engaged  in  ornithological 
labors.  When  he  again  made  a  proposition  for  an  extended 
tropical   trip,   he  was   asked  if  he  would    accept   the   position 


^  We  are  not  unacquainted  with  the  recent  alleged  discovery,  by  M.  Charnay,  of 
ruins  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Usumacinta,  where  he  found  an  English  traveller 
already  in  possession,  and  to  which  ruins  he  gave  the  name  of  "  Lorillard  City." 
But  this,  though  an  important  discovery,  was  not  in  any  sense  an  occupied  city,  nor 
did  it  add  materially  to  our  knowledge  of  those  cities  which  lie  buried  in  numbers 
in  the  immense  forests  of  Tabasco  and  Guatemala. 


172  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

of  naturalist  to  an  Arctic  exploring  expedition ;  this  was  de- 
clined, and  later  filled  acceptably  by  the  gallant  young  New- 
comb,  of  Salem,  whose  adventures  have  been  published,  and  are 
well  known. 

Our  scientific  institutions  seem  bent  upon  wasting  their  en- 
ergies by  dashing  their  heads  against  the  icy  barriers  about 
the  Pole.  Why  not  turn  their  attention  to  the  tropics,  to  that 
portion  of  our  country  where  American  civilization  had  its 
birth? 


X. 

VERA   CRUZ   AND   JALAPA. 

XDERHAPS  I  have  sufficiently  indicated  the  position  of  Pa- 
-^  lenque,  and  the  way  there,  my  object  being  merely  to 
direct  attention  to  this  region  so  long  forgotten ;  for  it  has  not 
been  half  explored.  As  it  is  far  from  our  purpose  to  penetrate 
the  wilds  of  Central  America  in  search  of  somewhat  mythical 
cities,  but  more  in  accordance  with  the  times  to  jog  along  in  the 
beaten  track  of  travel,  we  will  return  to  the  coast,  to  Tabasco. 

Taking  with  him  Marina,  the  Tabascan  princess,  as  his  mis- 
tress, (who  soon  became  valuable  as  an  interpreter,  and  subse- 
quently saved  the  Spanish  army  from  destruction,)  and  a  number 
of  other  captives,  Cortes  sailed  westward  and  northward.  Over 
the  same  route,  though  perhaps  a  little  farther  off  shore,  the 
steamers  to-day  take  their  course  to  Vera  Cruz.  About  mid- 
way between  Frontera  and  the  port  of  Vera  Cruz,  the  river 
Coatzcoalcos  flows  into  the  Gulf.  This  in  itself  were  of  no 
consequence,  but  that  it  indicates  the  narrowest  portion  of  the 
continent  north  of  Panama.  Regarding  this  isthmus  of  Tehuan- 
tepec,  it  would  be  difficult  to  write  anything  new  at  the  pres- 
ent day,  for  it  has  been  before  the  public  for  many  years  as  a 
claimant  for  a  canal.  Long  before  the  days  of  Humboldt,  this 
narrowing  of  the  continent  had  drawn  to  it  the  eyes  of  the 
world.  Though  surveys  have  demonstrated  the  impracticability 
of  a  ship  canal,  they  have  shown  the  feasibility,  even  necessity, 
for  a  railroad.  The  distance  across  the  isthmus  is  but  little 
over  one  hundred  miles,  and  a  depression  in  the  Cordilleras 
renders  the  grades  next  to  nothing.  This  road  is  one  that 
assumes  more  than  sectional  importance,  and  rises  to  the  dig- 
nity  of  an   international  highway.     Although  it  is  also  one  of 


174  '  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

the  few  roads  that  would  seem  Hkely  to  benefit  the  builders, 
yet  the  American  company  engaged  in  the  task  failed,  and  it 
has  reverted  to  the  Mexican  government. 

It  is  the  region  above  described  that  is  passed  by  on  the  way 
from  Progreso  to  Vera  Cruz ;  a  land  richer  in  recollections  of 
the  past  than  possibilities  for  the  future,  but  which  will  doubt- 
less share  in  the  returning  tide  of  prosperity  that  is  now  del- 
uging Mexico. 

Another  morning  finds  us  before  another  port,  La  Villa  Rica 
de  la  Vera  Cruz,  —  the  Rich  City  of  the  True  Cross,  —  gate- 
way to  the  Mexican  capital,  through  which,  in  times  past,  have 
poured  those  tides  of  wealth  that  have  filled  the  coffers  of  Spain. 
It  is  a  lovely  picture  this  city  presents  from  the  sea,  —  the  line 
of  walls  lying  above  and  in  front  of  stretches  of  sand  dunes, 
capped  here  and  there  with  verdure,  but  mostly  bare  and  gray. 
These  walls  are  tinted,  red,  yellow,  blue,  green,  but  are  never 
allowed  to  glare  out  in  ghastly  white.  And  then  its  domes  and 
turrets :  twenty-two  can  be  counted  from  the  steamer's  deck, 
some  of  shining  porcelain,  that  glisten  like  polished  marble 
in  the  sunshine.  The  suburbs  to  the  south  seem  even  more 
attractive  than  the  city,  with  low,  red-roofed  houses,  groups  of 
palms,  and  ruined  forts.  Down  the  coast  stretch  the  wind-blown 
sandhills,  —  the  medaftos,  —  yellow,  flecked  with  green,  with 
coral  reefs  tossing  the  foam  above  the  blue  water,  and  the 
Island  of  Sacrifices  —  Isla  de  los  Sacrificios  —  lying  low  to  the 
eastward. 

Under  the  walls  of  the  castle  fortress,  San  Juan  de  Ulua,  the 
steamer  drops  anchor,  half  a  mile  from  the  mole,  where  seems 
concentrated  the  life  of  the  city.  This  castle  is  built  upon  a 
small  barren  island,  upon  which  Juan  de  Grijalva  landed,  in 
June,  1 518.  It  being  the  day  of  the  feast  of  St.  John,  the  island 
was  called  San  Juan  de  Ulua,  The  Spaniards  found  idols  here, 
and  vestiges  of  human  sacrifices,  offered,  the  Indians  told  them, 
by  the  natives  of  Culchua,  or  Ulua  (Mexico).  The  construc- 
tion of  the  fortress  is  believed  to  have  been  begun  in  1662, 
though  spoken  of  in  1625,  but  not  finished  till  1796,  when  a 
light-tower   (still  standing)   was    added.      Several    inscriptions. 


VERA   CRUZ   AND   JALAPA.  1 77 

bearing  date  respectively  1633,  1700,  1707,  and  1778,  attest 
the  progress  of  various  portions  of  the  work.  It  is  in  shape 
a  rather  irregular  parallelogram,  with  a  small  watch-tower,  or 
rampart,  on  each  one  of  its  angles.  Besides  the  guns  of  the 
structure  proper,  it  has  water  batteries,  and  was  considered  at 
one  time  impregnable.  It  is  half  a  mile  from  shore,  and  com- 
mands the  city,  which  it  has  several  times  nearly  reduced  to 
ruins.  It  was  held  by  the  Spaniards  until  1825,  and  remained 
loyal  to  the  king  of  Spain  for  nearly  four  years  after  their  ex- 
pulsion from  the  mainland.  At  present  used  as  a  prison  for 
political  offenders,  it  is  especially  dreaded  by  prisoners  from  the 
interior  of  the  country,  as  incarceration  there  is  almost  sure  to 
end  in  death,  from  disease  engendered  in  its  damp  dungeons. 

If  the  coast  is  approached  in  clear  weather,  there  may  be 
seen  that  glorious  apparition,  the  volcano  of  Orizaba,  its  profile 
sharply  cut  against  the  blue  sky  full  sixty  miles  inland.  Known 
to  the  ancient  Aztecs  as  Ciltlalt^petl,  or  the  Mountain  of  the 
Star,  it  was  called  by  the  Spanish  sailors  La  Estrella  de  la 
Mar,  —  the  Star  of  the  Sea.  And  well  it  merits  this  latter  title, 
since  its  crystal  peak,  borne  on  high  17,500  feet,  is  visible  more 
than  one  hundred  miles  away. 

The  half-mile  or  so  between  steamer  and  quay  is  soon  gone 
over,  in  boats  shaded  by  awnings  and  propelled  by  boatmen 
clad  in  immaculate  garments  of  white,  and  you  are  soon  ashore 
and  inspecting  the  city. 

One  of  the  hottest  cities  of  the  repub- 
lic, Vera  Cruz  is  also  the  unhealthiest, 
and  by  some  strange  anomaly  it  is  like- 
wise one  of  the  cleanest.  Streets  white 
and  clean  are  drained  by  gutters  equally 
free  from  filth ;  and  if  any  refuse  escapes 
the  eye  of  the  sanitary  authorities,  those 
other  members  of  the  board  of  health, 
the  vultures,  are  sure  to  snatch  it  up  and 

^  A    ZOPILOTE. 

bear  it  away,  or  devour  it  on  the  spot. 

These  valued  birds  are  seen   by  hundreds,   perched  on  every 

roof-top,  and  waddling  through  all  the  streets.     They  are  called 


178  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

zopilotes,  from  the  Aztec  word  zopilotl,  and  belong  to  the  genus 
Cat/iartes,  —  two  species,  aura,  or  the  turkey  buzzard,  and  atra- 
tus,  the  black  vulture. 

The  Plaza  is  the  only  attractive  point  in  the  city ;  and  though 
it  is  small,  it  has  marble  walks  and  some  wind-blown  trees.  The 
architecture  is  the  same  as  that  of  all  these  cities  of  New  Spain 
transplanted  from  the  mother  country,  —  a  combination  of  Span- 
ish and  Moorish  that  redeems  the  city  from  sameness  and  makes 
it  interesting  to  a  stranger.  That  the  hotels  are  clean  and  fairly 
served,  that  there  is  a  tramway  with  a  single  track  traversing  the 
city,  that  you  run  the  risk  of  catching  the  vomito,  or  yellow 
fever,  if  you  pass  a  night  on  shore,  —  all  these  items  of  infor- 
mation are  given  in  the  guide-books,  and  have  become  familiar 
to  every  traveller. 

There  need  be  no  exaggeration  regarding  the  vomito,  for 
there  is  scarcely  room  for  any,  in  a  city  which  has  for  many 
years  been  known  as  la  ciiidad  de  los  mncrtos,  —  the  city  of  the 
dead.  The  Vera-Cruzians  claim  that  the  death-rates  are  over- 
estimated, yet  people  enough  succumb  to  "  Yellow  Jack,"  for 
all  that,  to  make  a  stranger  cautious  how  he  exposes  himself. 
Periodical  visits  from  this  dread  visitor  are  as  sure  as  taxes  and 
death  in  its  ordinary  shape.  In  June,  1881,  for  instance,  people 
were  dying  at  the  rate  of  one  hundred  a  week. 

A  clipping  from  a  Mexican  newspaper,  of  the  date  of  my 
residence  in  the  city  of  Mexico,  will  illustrate  the  extent  to 
which  this  evil  had  spread,  and  was  raging  at  that  time :  — 

"  Pandora's  box  was  not  a  circumstance  to  the  evils  which  Vera  Cruz 
contains.  Advices  from  there  state  that  the  yellow  fever  prevails  to  an 
extent  unknown  in  other  years. 

"  Old  residents  are  dead  and  dying,  and  medical  aid  is  pronounced  of 
no  avail.  Whole  families  are  leaving  for  Jalapa  and  Orizaba.  In  addi- 
tion, the  city  has  the  typhoid  and  bilious  fevers,  small-pox,  and  several 
other  pleasant  adjuncts  to  agreeable  living.     The  panic  is  very  great." 

From  my  note-book  of  that  date  I  extract  the  following :  — 

"  Forty  deaths  a  day  are  reported  from  yellow  fever  and  small-pox  in 
Vera  Cruz.     It  would  seem  as  though  no  one  would  be  left  to  carry  on 


VERA   CRUZ   AND   JALAPA.  1 79 

business  in  that  ancient  city  ;  yet  it  goes  on  the  same,  in  spite  of  the  dead 
and  dying.  A  friend  just  up  from  the  coast  tells  me  that  he  saw  eight 
bodies  carried  out  the  morning  he  arrived.  Yet  the  residents  there  treat 
the  matter  lightly.  The  late  American  Consul,  Dr.  Trowbridge,  who  has 
had  a  successor  appointed,  after  twelve  years  of  service,  retires  in  health, 
and  laughing  at  the  reports  of  fever.  He  is  waiting  for  his  successor. 
If  I  were  that  man  I  should  let  him  wait,  —  at  least  till  cooler  weather 
came.  Dr.  Trowbridge  and  his  family  had  yellow  fever  the  first  week 
they  came  to  Vera  Cruz,  while  his  predecessor,  who  had  held  the  office 
many  years,  and  had  resigned,  died  before  he  could  leave  the  city.  It 
is  strange,  yet  I  hear  there  were  hundreds  of  applicants  for  that  precari- 
ous consulship  at  Vera  Cruz,  where  an  escape  from  the  clutches  of  '  Yel- 
low Jack '  is  an  exception.     Are  offices,  then,  so  scarce  up  North?  " 

A  week  later  the  paper  quoted  from  above  contained  this 
item :  — 

"  Hon.  E.  H.  Rogers,  of  Nebraska,  who  was  recently  appointed  Con- 
sul at  Vera  Cruz,  died  last  Monday  from  the  fatal  effects  of  the  climate. 

"  Mr.  Rogers  had  but  just  arrived,  and  had  not  entered  upon  the  dis- 
charge of  his  duties  when  his  death  occurred.  Much  sorrow  is  felt  in 
this  city  over  the  sad  news.  The  funeral  rites  of  the  deceased  were 
observed  at  the  Evangelical  Church  of  Vera  Cruz." 

I  was  in  the  city  of  Mexico  when  the  news  of  the  appoint- 
ment of  the  new  Consul  reached  us  there,  and  remember  that 
we  all  speculated  as  to  the  probable  length  of  his  stay,  expect- 
ing he  would  soon  be  taken  with  the  vomito,  but  little  dreaming 
of  such  a  fatal  termination.  Again,  in  returning  through  Vera 
Cruz  in  September,  on  my  way  back  to  the  United  States,  I 
experienced  the  welcome  hospitality  of  the  Trowbridges,  and 
under  date  of  that  visit  find  the  following  entry  in  my  note- 
book :  — 

"  At  the  United  States  consulate,  all  the  old  family  who  have  been 
there  so  long,  and  have  made  Americans  so  welcome,  were  residing, 
except  Dr.  Trowbridge,  the  head  of  it,  who  was  absent  in  the  United 
States.  The  sad  ending  of  the  recent  attempt  to  replace  him,  by  the 
death  of  his  successor  after  but  thirteen  days'  residence,  should  read  a 
lesson  to  those  in  office  in  Washington,  who  appoint  men  to  foreign  sta- 
tions for  which  they  are  not  qualified  nor  acclimated.     The  twelve  years' 


l8o  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

residence  of  Dr.  Trowbridge  here  as  our  Consul,  during  which  he  has 
discharged  the  duties  of  the  office  faithfully,  and  won  respect  from  every_ 
body,  should  entitle  him  to  a  reappointment.  It  is  impossible  for  one 
not  acclimated  to  reside  in  this  city  long  without  receiving  a  visit  from 
the  vomito,  which  may  prove  fatal.  The  Doctor  and  his  family  have 
passed  through  many  bad  seasons,  they  have  all  had  the  fever,  and  it  is 
to  be  hoped  they  may  be  spared  yet  many  years  to  live  in  a  place  they 
seem  to  like." 

Though  Vera-Cruzians  deny  that  the  vomito  is  endemic  here, 
it  has  existed  too  long  in  this  place  to  have  their  assertion  be- 
lieved. The  oldest  description  of  yellow  fever  is  that  of  a  Por- 
tuguese physician,  who  observed  it  in  Brazil,  between  1687  and 
1694;  and  its  first  appearance  in  Mexico  is  said  by  the  histo- 
rian Clavigero  to  have  been  in  1725.  Even  the  best  of  our 
physicians  disagree  as  to  the  origin,  and  even  the  contagious 
character,  of  the  vomito ;  hence,  we  will  not  discuss  this  vexed 
question.  But  it  would  seem  that  the  latest  theory,  that  of  a 
South  American  physician,  that  it  is  propagated  by  germs  from 
the  soil  in  which  fever  victims  have  been  buried,  and  thus  ren- 
dered endemic,  was  more  nearly  correct  than  any  other  yet 
advanced.  It  has  been  noted  that  it  rages  more  violently  in 
some  seasons  than  in  others ;  and  Humboldt  stated  that  an 
intimate  connection  was  always  observed  between  the  march  of 
diseases  and  the  variations  of  atmospheric  temperature.  "  Two 
seasons  only  are  known  at  Vera  Cruz,  —  that  of  the  north  winds 
(^los  nortes),  from  the  autumnal  to  the  vernal  equinox,  and  that 
of  the  south  winds,  or  breezes  (drisas),  between  March  and  Sep- 
tember, The  month  of  January  is  the  coldest  in  the  year,  be- 
cause it  is  farthest  from  the  two  periods  in  which  the  sun  passes 
through  the  zenith  of  Vera  Cruz  (the  i6th  of  May  and  the  27th 
of  July).  The  vomito  generally  begins  to  rage  in  that  term 
when  the  mean  temperature  of  the  month  reaches  75°  Fahren- 
heit. In  December,  January,  and  February,  the  heat  remains 
below  this  limit;  and,  accordingly,  it  seldom  happens  that  the 
yellow  fever  does  not  entirely  disappear  in  that  season,  when 
a  very  sensible  cold  is  frequently  felt." 

The  last  and  the  first  months  of  the  year,  then,  are  the  safest 


VERA   CRUZ  AND   JALAPA.  l8l 

in  which  to  pass  through  Vera  Cruz,  and  the  midsummer  months 
the  most  dangerous.  Although  the  fever  commences  in  May, 
it  is  generally  at  its  worst  in  August  and  September,  as  it  re- 
quires a  certain  time  for  the  germs  of  the  disease  to  develop. 
The  disease  first  attacks  strangers  in  the  country,  especially 
those  from  a  colder  climate,  where  frost  occurs;  and  it  has  been 
observed  by  Humboldt  that  among  people  from  the  table-lands 
of  Mexico  the  mortality  is  relatively  greater  than  among  visitors 
coming  from  over  the  sea. 

A  stay  in  Vera  Cruz  even  of  a  few  hours  is  sufficient  for  one 
to  contract  the  contagion,  during  the  season  of  fever,  and  the 
greatest  precautions  must  be  taken  by  those  who  are  compelled 
to  run  the  gantlet  in  the  summer  months.  We  have  had  many 
lamentable  examples  of  late  years,  one  of  the  most  to  be 
deplored  being  that  of  General  Ord,  our  brave  army  officer, 
whose  business  and  family  interests  took  him  to  Mexico,  and 
who  died  in  Havana,  of  fever  contracted  at  Vera  Cruz.  I  have 
purposely  digressed  from  our  line  of  march  to  repeat  the  warn- 
ing to  would-be  visitors  to  Mexico,  not  to  pass  through  Vera 
Cruz  in  the  summer  season. 

Once  a  person  has  had  the  fever,  he  generally  has  immunity 
from  further  attack,  and  the  old  residents  of  Vera  Cruz  laugh 
at  its  approach,  and  pursue  their  avocations  without  seriously 
regarding  it.  This  is  why  they  cling  so  strongly  to  this  pesti- 
lential seaport,  since  the  transfer  of  its  business  to  a  new  and 
more  healthy  locality  has  often  been  urged,  and  always  by  them 
strenuously  resisted. 

General  Grant,  President  of  the  Mexican  Southern  Railroad, 
has  encountered  great  opposition  from  them  because  he  pro- 
posed having  the  Gulf  terminus  of  his  line  at  Anton  Lizardo.  a 
healthy  locality,  with  a  comparatively  good  harbor,  some  dis- 
tance down  the  coast.  His  improvements  are  now  going  on  at 
that  place,  and  when  they  are  finished,  and  railway  connection 
is  made  with  the  table-land,  Vera  Cruz  will  be  left  to  occupy 
the  position  it  richly  deserves,  as  a  forsaken  charnel-house  of 
mouldering  bones.  Its  roadstead  is  notoriously  poor,  affording 
no  protection  to  the  vessels  coming  there,  although  the  famous 


1 82  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

island  of  Ulua,  containing  a  fortress  costing  $16,000,000,  lies  to 
windward.  Nearly  all  the  business  is  conducted  by  French  and 
German  merchants,  who  have  risked  their  lives  in  their  attempts 
at  acclimatization,  and  are  now  richly  rewarded  by  large  and 
increasing  fortunes. 

Another  thing  to  encounter,  equally  dreadful  in  its  way  with 
the  fever,  is  the  customs  duty.  Though  it  is  an  undeniable  fact 
that  the  merchants  of  the  country  are  robbed  by  wholesale, 
sometimes  paying  duties  on  goods  to  the  amount  of  twice 
their  original  cost,  yet  the  traveller  is  rarely  molested.  One 
should  not  fail  to  pay  a  deserved  tribute  to  the  Mexican  cus- 
toms official,  who  is  ever  courteous  and  attentive.  He  does  not 
seem  to  bear  that  surly  antipathy  towards  travellers  which  his 
brother  official  of  the  United  States  almost  invariably  displays. 
At  the  very  ports  of  this  country,  before  you  have  fairly  made 
the  acquaintance  of  the  people,  you  will  perceive  in  them  a 
demeanor  in  most  refreshing  contrast  to  that  of  the  habitues  of 
the  docks  of  New  York.  The  traveller  is  permitted  to  enter  all 
his  personal  apparel  free  of  duty,  as  well  as  two  watches,  two 
revolvers, —  in  fact,  everything  that  he  really  needs.  A  great 
many  things  he  does  not  need  may  be  taken  in  also,  for  the 
official's  pay  is  meagre,  and  he  loves  to  gaze  upon  the  portraits 
of  American  worthies  as  depicted  on  the  faces  of  our  national 
currency  Remember,  however,  that  cinco  pesos  (five  dollars) 
is  sufficient  to  provide  said  official  with  many  luxuries,  as  the 
rate  of  exchange  is  sometimes  as  high  as  twenty  per  cent  in  our 
favor.  At  the  verge  of  the  voyage,  also,  it  would  be  well  to 
caution  the  traveller  that  he  must,  if  requested,  state  to  the 
proper  authorities  his  name  and  profession.  This  done,  he 
may  be  at  liberty  to  wander  at  his  own  sweet  will.  Vaya  con 
Dios  !  —  Go,  and  the  Lord  be  with  you  ! 

The  reader  hardly  needs  to  be  reminded  that  Vera  Cruz  was 
virtually  founded  by  Cortes ;  that  his  landing-place  was  on  the 
city's  site ;  that  he  here  disembarked  his  troops,  destroyed  his 
ships,  and  entered  upon  the  march  inland  that  has  made  his 
name  as  famous  as  that  of  Alexander  and  from  which  he  re- 
turned only  when  he  had  conquered  the  country. 


VERA   CRUZ  AND  JALAPA.  1 85 

"  It  was  on  Holy  Thursday,  of  the  year  15 19,"  says  the  stout 
old  chronicler,  Bernal  Diaz,  whom  we  shall  encounter  at  inter- 
vals throughout  our  journey,  "  that  we  arrived  at  the  port  of 
San  Juan  de  Ulua,  and  Cortes  hoisted  the  royal  standard."  He 
first  landed  on  the  island  now  crowned  by  the  castle,  where 
Grijalva  had  preceded  him  by  a  year.  Though  the  first  build- 
ings erected  by  the  Spaniards  were  upon  this  spot,  yet  the  site 
was  changed  several  times,  before  it  was  finally  fixed  at  the 
present  location  in  the  year   1600. 

Though  Vera  Cruz  has  suffered  probably  above  every  other 
city  in  Mexico,  from  the  combined  influences  of  plagues,  pirates, 
and  hurricanes,  yet  to-day  it  exists  as  a  prosperous  and  well- 
conditioned  city.  As  the  only  port  on  the  eastern  coast  with 
any  semblance  of  a  harbor,  it  has  monopolized  Mexican  com- 
merce with  foreign  nations,  and  has  always  been  opulent  and 
animated.  In  olden  times,  like  Havana  and  Cartagena,  it  was 
exposed  to  the  assaults  of  pirates  and  buccaneers,  into  whose 
hands  it  fell  in  1568,  and  again  in  1683,  when  the  pirates  Agra- 
mont  and  Lorencillo  sacked  the  city,  and  destroyed  more  than 
three  hundred  of  the  inhabitants.  In  161 8  a  terrible  fire  swept 
over  it. 

In  1803  the  first  great  road  was  commenced  to  the  city  of 
Mexico,  there  having  been  till  that  time  little  more  than  the  foot- 
paths worn  by  mules  and  asses  coming  down  from  the  moun- 
tains. In  the  war  for  independence  Vera  Cruz  was  the  theatre 
of  strife  between  the  opposing  factions  on  many  occasions,  and 
in  1822  and  1823  was  terribly  bombarded  by  the  Spaniards  in 
the  fortress  of  San  Juan.  The  city  bears  the  distinguishing  title 
of  "  heroic,"  especially  granted  it  by  Congress,  in  honor  of  the 
many  sieges  it  has  gallantly  sustained.  In  1838  city  and  castle 
were  attacked  by  the  French  without  any  provocation ;  and 
in  March,  1847,  suffered  from  a  cannonade  by  the  American 
fleet,  the  effects  of  which  may  be  seen  to-day.  In  1856  a  hurri- 
cane destroyed  nearly  all  the  shipping  in  the  harbor;  in  1859 
Juarez,  the  republican  President,  landed  here  after  his  circular 
voyage  around  Mexico,  and  here  he  was  besieged  by  General 
Miramon.     In  1861  the  "intervention"  fleet  made  its  appear- 


l86  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

ance,  and  the  city  was  in  possession  of  the  French  and  Imperi- 
ahsts  until  1867,  when  the  cause  of  freedom  triumphed,  and 
nothing  has  since  occurred  to  interrupt  its  career  of  commercial 
prosperity. 

The  great  State  of  Vera  Cruz,  of  which  this  city  is  the  com- 
mercial emporium,  comprises  the  central  portion  of  the  Gulf 
coast  of  Mexico,  and  lies  mainly  in  the  hot  country  producing 
the  fruits  and  vines  of  the  tropics.  Throughout  its  whole  ex- 
tent bordering  the  coast,  it  maintains  a  reputation  for  insalu- 
brity, and  is  undesirable  to  live  in.  As  a  place  of  refuge  from 
the  heat  and  vomito,  and  the  insect  plagues  that  sometimes 
annoy  the  inhabitants  of  the  coast,  the  town  of  Jalapa  —  pro- 
nounced Halapa  —  has  an  extensive  reputation.  Situated  at  a 
height  above  the  sea  of  over  four  thousand  feet,  it  is  yet  only 
seventy  miles  from  Vera  Cruz,  and  is  reached  in  one  day. 

Having  a  few  days  to  spare  before  leaving  for  the  capital,  I 
resolved  to  look  upon  this  town  in  the  mountains,  celebrated 
for  the  beauty  of  its  scenery,  its  women,  and  its  flowers.  At 
three  in  the  morning  the  porter  of  the  hotel  drew  me  forth 
from  the  cell  which  the  proprietor  had  assigned  me  as  a  bed- 
room, the  night  before,  and  led  the  way  to  the  station,  through 
streets  that  were  dark  and  cool,  but  heavy  with  vile  odors.  We 
went  by  steam  to  San  Juan,  sixteen  miles,  over  flat  plains,  and 
then  changed  for  a  tramway,  which  does  the  remaining  sixty 
miles  or  so  to  Jalapa.  At  first  we  passed  through  a  section  of 
rich  land  ;  but  as  the  ascent  commenced,  vegetation  was  parched 
and  dry;  yet  there  was  everywhere  a  blossom,  though  few  birds, 
and  no  butterflies.  Three  cars  composed  our  train,  divided  re- 
spectively into  first,  second,  and  third  class,  and  each  one  drawn 
by  four  mules.  We  made  but  one  stop  before  reaching  the 
Puente  Nacional,  —  the  National  Bridge,  —  a  magnificent  via- 
duct, under  which  flowed  a  large  river,  where  a  stone  fort  com- 
manded the  approach  for  half  a  mile  or  so  on  either  side.  The 
old  Spanish  road,  paved  and  curbed,  over  which  General  Scott 
marched  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Jalapa,  on  his  way  to  Mexico,  is 
the  same  one  we  now  take ;  but  it  is  wellnigh  abandoned  by 
teams,  nearly  all  freight  passing  over  the  tramway      Near  this 


VERA   CRUZ   AND   JALAPA. 


187 


bridge  are  the  ruins 
of  Santa  Anna's  ha- 
cienda, and  along 
the  road  beyond  on 
both  sides  of  it, 
we  passed  numerous 
black  crosses,  erect- 
ed over  the  graves 
of  murdered  men, 
buried  where  they 
fell.  Forty  miles  on 
our  journey  brought 
us  to  Rinconada, 
where  the  mules  were 
changed  for  the  sec- 
ond time,  and  where 
a  good  breakfast  was 
served. 

In  this  small,  out- 
of-the-way  place,  a 
sight  greeted  my 
eyes  that  rendered 
me  for  the  moment 
speechless.  I  have 
already  spoken  of  the 
great  influx  of  engi- 
neers into  this  coun- 
try ;  they  crowded 
every  steamer,  and 
worried  the  lives  out 
of  every  officer  on 
board  by  criticisms 
of  the  management 
of  the  machinery. 
Having  seen  these 
knights  of  the  theod- 
olite on   board  ship, 


1 88  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

dressed  in  fine  clothes,  groaning  under  the  weight  of  massive 
gold  chains  and  chronometers,  —  men  who  shaved  once  every 
other  day,  got  their  boots  blacked  by  the  porter,  and  con- 
stantly threw  out  such  like  evidences  of  familiarity  with  a  bank 
account, —  having  witnessed  all  this,  I  was  not  prepared  for 
what  I  saw  at  that  small  station,  where  the  mules  kindly  halted 
to  allow  us  dusty  travellers  a  chance  to  wash  the  dust  out  of 
our  throats.  It  was  this :  a  young  man  leaning  against  the 
doorpost. 

Stalwart  young  men  and  doorposts  are  not  uncommonly  met 
with  together,  as  many  a  young  woman  can  testify;  but  it 
was  not  the  young  man  especially,  nor  the  doorpost,  that  riv- 
eted my  gaze,  but  his  costume.  Beneath  a  great  sombrero, 
with  a  brim  little  less  than  a  yard  wide,  stood  a  woollen  shirt 
and  leather  breeches,  girt  about  with  a  pistol-belt  full  of  car- 
tridges, and  stuck  around  with  revolvers ;  a  rifle  leaned  against 
the  left  arm,  while  the  right  hand  of  the  owner  of  all  this  furni- 
ture was  stroking  a  beard  belonging  to  a  countenance  not  at  all 
unfamiliar.  While  I  was  beating  my  brains  to  recall  where  I  had 
met  this  handsome  ruffian  before,  summoning  up  Buffalo  Bill, 
Davy  Crockett,  the  ghost  of  Texas  Jack,  and  all  the  rangers  of 
the  prairie  that  had  crossed  my  track,  this  formidable  being 
hailed  me.  He  called  me  by  name,  and  extended  a  palm  horny 
with  the  blisters  of  two  weeks  in  the  field  with  compass  and  line. 
It  was  Smith,  fellow-passenger  on  a  previous  steamer,  who  had 
exchanged  a  spick-and-span  New  York  suit  for  the  garb  of  the 
Mexican,  and  who  wore  girt  about  his  loins  the  implements  of 
warfare  peculiar  to  the  land  of  the  Mexican ;  his  countenance, 
which  he  was  so  careful  to  keep  from  being  sun-burnt  when  on 
board  steamer,  was  now  a  flaring  red,  and  his  hair,  which  he 
was  wont  to  anoint  with  oil  and  part  in  the  middle,  was  frowzy, 
and  proclaimed  by  stray  hairs  from  another  species  of  animal, 
here  and  there,  the  color  of  the  blanket  he  last  slept  in.  As 
soon  as  I  had  discovered  my  friend  in  this  disguise,  and  became 
convinced  that  it  was  not  a  highwayman  lying  in  wait  for  my 
gold,  we  went  in  and  cemented  our  friendship  in  the  usual 
manner. 


VERA    CRUZ    AND   JALAPA.  189 

Fifty-five  miles  from  the  coast  is  Cerro  Gordo,  famous  in  the 
annals  of  the  Mexican  war,  —  a  narrow  pass  between  very  high 
hills.  Regarding  the  passage  of  Cerro  Gordo,  an  English  trav- 
eller reluctantly  yields  to  our  troops  the  following  praise: 
"  That  ten  thousand  Americans  should  have  been  able  to  get 
through  the  mountain  passes,  and  to  reach  the  capital  at  all,  is 
an  astonishing  thing ;  and  after  that,  their  successes  in  the  val- 
ley of  Mexico  follow  as  a  matter  of  course.  They  could  never 
have  crossed  the  mountains  but  for  a  combination  of  circum- 
stances." 

The  road  is  everywhere  commanded ;  there  was  no  other 
trail,  —  hills  and  mountains  on  every  side;  so  General  Scott  had 
to  throw  skirmishers  along  all  these  ridges  before  his  army 
could  pass.  It  is  a  long  distance  through,  and  must  have  been 
a  perilous  pass,  with  just  width  enough  between  high  cliffs  for 
the  road  to  run.  Not  far  from  the  narrowest  portion,  a  trail 
leads  off  to  the  left,  up  to  a  ridge  where  cannon  are  yet  found, 
and  behind  which  Santa  Anna  lost  his  leg,  —  his  wooden  one. 
A  few  tile-covered,  tumble-down  shanties  constitute  the  hamlet 
of  Cerro  Gordo,  half  a  mile  farther  on. 

The  land  is  now  of  the  uplands.  Cerro  Gordo  guards  the  pas- 
sage from  the  hot  lowlands  to  the  salubrious  temperate  region; 
streams  now  run  by  the  track,  good  pasturage  commences,  and 
the  way  is  all  up  hill.  Some  four  miles  farther  we  entered  roll- 
ing upland  pastures,  where  corn  was  growing,  and  a  straggling 
hacienda  was  visible  now  and  again.  Beyond  this  the  ridges  are 
covered  with  hard  woods,  corn  and  sugar-cane  grow  side  by  side 
in  the  vales,  fields  of  barley  are  spread  invitingly  about,  and,  as 
we  gallop  into  Jalapa,  we  cannot  but  notice  the  groves  of  coffee 
trees  by  which  the  houses  are  surrounded. 

At  the  Hotel  Vera-Cruzana,  a  low  building  about  an  open 
court  with  fountains  and  flowers,  we  obtained  good  accommo- 
dation, at  the  termination  of  our  ride  of  nearly  twelve  hours. 
Though  generally  surrounded  by  clouds  of  mist,  Jalapa  pos- 
sesses a  superior  situation,  with  grand  mountain  views,  and  the 
combined  vegetation  of  the  high  and  the  low  country.  Possess- 
ing also  a  temperate  climate,  it  produces,  it  is  said,  the  prettiest 


190 


TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 


women  and  loveliest  flowers  in  Mexico  proper.  Its  architecture 
is  not  remarkable,  if  we  except  the  old  convent,  said  to  have 
been  built  in  the  time  of  Cortes,  and  unless  we  consider  the 
manner  in  which  the  houses  —  all  of  stone  —  are  perched  on 
the  hillsides.  The  gardens  of  Jalapa  are  noted  all  over  Mexico, 
because  in  them  are  gathered  fruits  and  flowers  of  every  zone. 
Cofl'ee  is  the  staple  product,  but  bananas  and  plantains,  as  well 
as  corn,  fraternize  with  it,  and  serve  to  give  a  character  to  these 
gardens  that  impresses  one  strongly  with  the  possibilities  of  this 
climate. 

In  the  forests,  out  of  sight,  on   the  eastern  declivity  of  the 
Cordilleras  of  Vera  Cruz,  flourishes  that  aromatic-fruited  plant, 

the  vanilla,  —  Vanilla 
planifolia.  It  is  indige- 
nous to  the  humid  for- 
ests, and  is  carefully 
sought  out  and  gath- 
ered by  the  Indians 
of  the  ticrra  calietite. 
The  plant  requires  lit- 
tle care,  but  shade  and 
moisture  are  necessary 
to  its  existence.  The 
Indians,  who  yet  reside 
in  their  primitive  vil- 
lages, are  restricted  in 
the  harvest  season  by 
the  alcalde^  who  appor- 
tions to  each  his  share 
of  the  labor.  The  har- 
vest begins  in  March 
and  April,  and  con- 
tinues two  or  three 
months.  The  pods  are  carefully  dried  in  the  sun,  and  packed 
for  shipment  with  equal  solicitude. 

Vanilla    was    assiduously    cultivated    by    the    Totonacs,   who 
anciently  dwelt    in    the    coast    region    of  Vera  Cruz,  and  who 


VERA   CRUZ   AND   JALAPA.  191 

supplied  the  article  to  Montezuma  and  the  Aztec  nobles.  Ruins 
of  the  structures  erected  by  these  Totonacs  lie  thick  throughout 
the  vast  forests,  in  a  line  between  Jalapa  and  the  coast,  going 
northward.  Some  of  them  have  names,  such  as  Misantla,  Ma- 
pilca,  and  Papantla.  The  first  named  lies  within  thirty  miles  of 
Jalapa ;  but  little  is  known  of  any  of  these  groups,  though  the 
pyramid  of  Papantla  was  described  eighty  years  ago.  The 
base  of  this  pyramid  is  an  exact  square,  each  side  twenty-five 
metres  in  length,  and  its  perpendicular  height  about  twenty 
metres.  It  is  composed  of  six  successive  stages,  like  the  true 
teocallis  of  Mexico,  and  a  great  staircase  of  fifty-seven  steps 
leads  to  the  truncated  summit.  Hieroglyphics  and  strange  fig- 
ures, such  as  serpents  and  alligators,  are  carved  in  relief  on  the 
faced  stones  of  each  story,  while  a  multitude  of  square  niches, 
366  in  number,  have  given  rise  to  the  conjecture  that  they,  in 
some  occult  sense,  had  connection  with  the  ancient  Toltec  cal- 
endar ;  twelve  additional  niches  in  the  stair  toward  the  east  may 
have  stood  for  the  "  useless  "  or  intercalated  days  at  the  end  of 
their  cycle. 

To  revert  again  to  the  charms  of  Jalapa ;  it  is  not  my  own 
unsupported  testimony  that  I  would  offer.  All  travellers  who 
have  recorded  their  impressions  of  this  city  concur  in  praising 
its  scenery  and  its  doncellas.  Says  the  Mexican  adage,  ''Las 
Jalapenas  son  inuy  halagilenas''  —  "  The  women  of  Jalapa  are 
very  bewitching."  And  Mr.  Ward  (1827):  "It  is  impossible 
that  any  words  should  convey  an  adequate  idea  of  the  country 
about  Jalapa.  It  stands  in  the  centre  of  some  of  the  finest 
mountain  scenery  which  any  country  can  boabt  of."  Humboldt 
was  in  love  with  it,  and  perhaps  with  the  doncellas  as  well,  for 
he  had  a  very  susceptible  nature,  this  grand  old  man,  —  not  old 
when  he  visited  Mexico,  but  young  and  handsome. 

The  only  drawback  to  perpetual  enjoyment  here  is  the  driz- 
zling rain,  which  the  clouds  from  the  Gulf,  their  burdens  of 
moisture  condensed  by  the  cool  mountain-tops,  precipitate  upon 
Jalapa.  This  drizzle  is  called  the  cJiipi-cJiipi.  "  Then,"  says  the 
traveller  Ruxton,  "  the  sun  is  for  days  obscured,  and  the  Jala- 
peno,  muffled  in  his   sarape,  smokes  his  cigarro,   and  mutters. 


192 


TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 


'  Ave  Maria  p7irissima,  que  saiga  el  sol.'  Liberally,  '  Holy 
Mary,  let  the  sun  come  out ! ' "  Jalapa  was  formerly  on  the 
great  highway  between  Vera  Cruz  and  Mexico  (the  city),  which, 
both   below  and    beyond,  was    infested    by  the    salteadores,  or 


-■^ ■^-~< 

RUINS    OF    PAPANTLA. 


"  gentlemen  of  the  road."  Of  the  past,  however,  are  these 
tales,  for  the  railway  has  superseded  the  diligence,  and  the  poor 
highwayman  must  now  labor  with  his  hands. 

Xalapa  was  a  town  existing  when  the  first  Spaniards  marched 
up  these  mountains,  as  is  stated  in  their  reports.     Beyond  it  is 


VERA   CRUZ   AND   JALAPA.  1 93 

the  famous  mountain  of  Perote,  called  by  an  Aztec  name  signi- 
fying casket,  in  Spanish  cofre,  from  its  rectangular  shape,  and 
near  its  base  the  town  of  Perote,  where  American  prisoners  were 
confined  in  1847.  Though  we  had  looked  anxiously  for  that 
plant  from  which  the  town  derived  its  name,  that  tried  friend 
of  old-school  physicians,  jalap, — Ipomoea  J^alapa,  —  we  had  not 
been  successful.  Only  the  name  remains,  though  the  plant  may 
still  be  hidden  in  some  dark  ravine,  or  in  the  deep  forest,  like 
the  vanilla,  for  which  the  coast  country  below  was  formerly 
celebrated. 

My  companions  on  the  way  up  were  the  celebrated  artist, 
Church,  painter  of  "  The  Heart  of  the  Andes,"  and  his  lovely 
wife,  who  were  then  on  their  return  trip  towards  the  United 
States,  and  who  expressed  themselves  as  delighted  with  the 
mountain  scenery  of  the  plateau.  It  was  early  morning  as  we 
left  Jalapa  on  the  downward  trip,  left  it  still  crouching  beneath 
the  clouds  that  hovered  over  it,  and  scampered  —  or  our  mules 
did  —  down  the  hills.  The  mules  were  whipped  into  a  gallop, 
and  changed  every  three  leagues,  so  that  the  journey  to  the 
coast  was  half  accomplished  ere  the  sun  made  it  very  hot. 

"  The  worse  the  road,  the  harder  ply  the  whip,"  is  the  motto 
of  all  Mexican  drivers ;  so  we  sped  through  the  pass  of  Cerro 
Gordo  at  an  awful  rate,  taking  sharp  curves  and  spinning 
over  its  tortuous  road  at  top  speed.  Beyond  Rinconada,  we 
descended  the  steep  grades  in  a  cloud  of  dust,  racing  with 
the  second  and  third  class  cars,  the  heat  growing  more  and 
more  oppressive  every  mile ;  and  in  this  manner  we  ran  into 
the  hot  country  again,  and  on  the  morrow  took  the  train  for 
the  capital. 


1.3 


XI. 
FROM    COAST   TO   CAPITAL. 

"\ /TEXICO  lies  at  the  meeting-place  of  two  zones,  —  the  tem- 
-^^■^  perate  and  the  torrid ;  and  from  its  geographical  posi- 
tion, combined  with  its  varying  altitudes,  possesses  a  greater 
variety  of  soil,  surface,  and  vegetation  than  any  equal  extent  of 
contiguous  territory  in  the  world.  Basking  in  the  sunshine  of 
the  tropics,  her  head  pillowed  in  the  lap  of  the  North,  her  feet 
resting  at  the  gateway  of  the  continents,  her  snowy  bosom  rising 
to  the  clouds,  she  rests  serene  in  the  majesty  of  her  might. 
She  guards  vast  treasures  of  gold  and  silver,  emeralds  and  opals 
adorn  her  brow,  while  the  hem  of  her  royal  robe,  dipped  in  the 
seas  of  two  hemispheres,  is  embroidered  with  pearls  and  the 
riches  of  ocean. 

Mother  of  Western  civilization!  cradle  of  the  American  race! 
a  thousand  years  have  been  gathered  into  the  sheaf  of  time  since 
her  first  cities  were  built.  When  the  Norsemen  coasted  our 
Northern  shores,  she  had  towns  and  villages,  and  white-walled 
temples  and  palaces.  When  the  Pilgrims  landed  on  Plymouth 
Rock,  a  hundred  years  had  already  passed  since  the  soldiers  of 
Cortes  had  battled  with  the  hosts  of  Montezuma.  Three  centu- 
ries, and  more,  have  rolled  by  since  her  conquest,  and  into  the 
treasury  of  Spain,  through  this  same  city  of  the  True  Cross,  she 
has  poured  golden  streams  and  silver  floods  of  royal  revenue. 
Her  ten  millions  of  people  occupy  one  million  square  miles 
of  territory,  having  a  length  of  i,8oo,  a  breadth  of  8oo,  and  a 
coast  line  of  5,500  miles. 

While  yet  upon  her  coast,  let  us  glance  at  the  country  we 
have  come  to  visit.  Rising  above  the  limit  of  her  mountains 
clothed  in  snow,  let  us  take  a  bird's-eye  view  of  this  great 
"  central  continent." 


FROM   COAST   TO   CAPITAL. 


195 


The  mountain  chain  that  is 
so  depressed  at  the  Isthmus 
of  Tehuantepec  divides  into 
two  as  it  reaches  Mexican  ter- 
ritory, forming  the  eastern  and 
western  Cordilleras  that  run 
along  either  coast.  These 
great  mountain  ranges,  then, 
guard  an  immense  central  pla- 
teau, supporting  some  of  the 
highest  pinnacles  on  this  con- 
tinent. 

Between  the  bases  of  these 
ranges  and  the  coasts  there  is 
a  broad  expanse  of  compara- 
tively level  land,  known  as 
the  savanas,  or  llanos.  This 
portion  of  the  country  is  hot, 
and  in  the  main  unhealthy. 
The  great  plains  are  charac- 
terized by  general  aridity  in 
the  dry  season,  and  are  par- 
tially submerged  in  the  season 
of  rains.  Covered  with  coarse 
grass,  they  are  the  resort  of 
great  herds  of  cattle,  but  their 
vegetation  consists  principally 
of  stunted,  prickly,  and  thorny 
trees.  Like  oases  in  this 
grassy  desert  are  the  spots 
fertilized  by  some  stream  or 
lake,  where  the  trees  and  plants 
are  of  the  tropics,  and  all  the 
fruits  of  the  hot  zone  are  pro- 
duced in  abundance :  such  as 
cacao  and  coco,  vanilla  and 
spices,     sugar-cane,     bananas, 


Acapulco, 


Chilpancingo. 


Cnemavaca. 


Cruz  del  Marques, 


(  Mexico. 
I  Anahuac 


Rio  Frio. 


Puebla. 


El  Pinal. 


Jalapa. 


Vera  Cruz. 


Gulf  of  Mexico. 


196 


TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 


oranges,  and  mangos.  To  impress  upon  one  the  character  of 
the  vegetation  of  the  coast,  a  group  of  coco  palms  must  be 
imagined,  waving  their  long  leaves  wildly  in  the  wind  or  shining 
like  gold  in  the  sun.  Essentially  a  littoral  product,  the  coco- 
palm  is   rarely  found  far  inland,  and  the  equally  beautiful  and 

tropical  plant,  the  banana,  leaves 
it  behind,  in  the  advance  up  the 
mountains,  as  the  foot-hills  are 
reached. 

These  plains  are  not  level,  but 
rise  from  a  low  altitude  above  the 
sea  to  a  height  of  two  thousand 
feet    and    more ;     then    the    hills 
set  their  feet  upon  them  and 
vegetation  radically  changes. 
This  coast  section   is    called 
the    iierra    caliente,    or    hot 
country;    but   with   our   en- 
trance into  the  hills  we  pass 
gradually   to    a    cooler    and 


PAT. MS   OF   THE   COAST 


more  salubrious  climate,  called  by  the  natives  tierra  templada, 
the  temperate  region.  Here,  indeed,  Nature  manifests  herself 
in  her  grandest  productions;  vegetation  begins  to  be  profuse; 
the  huts  of  the  natives,  the  great  and  towering  trees,  the  rocks, 
the  entire  surface  of  the  soil,  are  covered  with  gay  flowers  and 


FROM  COAST  TO  CAPITAL.  I97 

luxuriant  vines :  orchids,  oleanders,  roses,  honeysuckles,  and 
convolvuli  "  make  glad  these  solitary  places,"  and  tall  yuccas, 
palms,  and  tree-ferns  make  them  picturesque. 

Rising  higher  and  higher,  the  eye  is  bewildered  by  the  vast 
number  of  vegetable  forms  that  are  massed  upon  the  trees,  the 
wild  pines,  air-plants,  and  hosts  of  ferns,  bignonias  with  tints 
of  sea-shells,  orchids  with  spikes  of  blossoms,  dragon  plants, 
and  an  entire  world  of  creepers  and  parasitic  vines,  unknown  to 
any  but  the  skilled  botanist.  Thus  we  pass  through  a  zone 
unknown  to  us  of  the  North,  that  has  also  forms  not  found  in 
the  low  tropics.  It  is  called  the  "  temperate  region"  because  of 
its  delightful  climate  and  equable  temperature ;  but  it  not  only 
combines  the  vegetation  of  two  zones,  but  also  the  heat  and 
moisture  of  the  lowlands  with  the  cool  breezes  and  salubrious 
atmosphere  of  the  temperate  country. 

Having  traced  the  lapping  of  the  two  girdles  in  other  places, 
in  the  lesser  islands  of  the  West  Indies,  and  having  noted  and 
admired  the  blending  of  the  two  zones  in  this  middle  ground,  I 
had  long  ago  given  this  region  (in  imagination,  before  it  passed 
under  my  eyes)  the  name  of  Tropic  Border-land.  The  flowers 
here  do  not  lose  their  scent,  as  some  imagine ;  the  birds  are 
tuneful,  —  though  some  would  have  us  believe  to  the  contrary, 
—  and  the  annoying  insects  less  abundant  than  below.  Para- 
dise, if  it  can  be  located  on  this  earth,  will  occupy  a  position  in 
the  tierra  templada,  in  some  belt  half-way  up  a  tropic  mountain, 
whether  in  Mexico  or  in  South  America,  in  the  West  Indies  or 
in  the  Himalayas,  where  altitude  confers  all  the  favors  resulting 
from  a  change  of  country  in  other  lands.  There  is  no  deadly 
disease  here,  as  in  the  coast  country ;  at  an  elevation  of  three 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea  there  is  little  danger  from  the 
vomtto,  and,  except  for  local  causes,  other  fevers  seldom  molest 
the   inhabitants. 

As  far  up  as  four  thousand  feet  the  sugar-cane,  coffee,  rice,  to- 
bacco, and  banana  may  be  raised  ;  and  all  the  fruits  of  the  world, 
both  the  new  and  the  old,  may  be  produced  here  in  greater 
or  less  perfection.  Beyond  this,  vegetation  is  less  luxuriant ; 
the  grains  of  the  Old  World,  as  wheat  and  barley,  flourish  best 


198  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

at  an  altitude  of  six  thousand  feet;  here  the  pines  commence, 
though  oaks  were  met  with  two  thousand  feet  below,  while  corn, 
the  great  tasselled  chieftain  of  the  West,  being  on  indigenous  soil, 
has  marched  with  us  all  the  way  from  the  coast,  and  climbed  with 
us  up  the  sides  of  the  mountains.  At  about  seven  thousand  feet, 
the  great  plains  are  reached  that  lie  between  the  eastern  and 
western  Cordilleras,  and  cover  an  area  of  some  fifteen  hundred 
miles  in  length  by  five  hundred  in  breadth.  Here  cactus  and 
aloe,  cypress  and  cedar,  proclaim  another  zone,  the  tierra  fria, 
or  "  cold  country,"  where  not  a  trace  of  tropical  vegetation  ex- 
ists except  in  the  equivocal  cacti  and  maguey.  Shooting  above 
the  plateau,  the  great  volcanoes,  Orizaba,  Ixtaccihuatl,  and 
Popocatapetl,  lift  their  hoary  heads  high  into  the  clouds,  and 
if  we  ascend  their  sides  to  their  summits,  we  shall  have  traced 
vegetation  to  its  last  limit,  —  from  the  palms,  bananas,  and 
sugar-cane  of  the  heated  coast,  through  the  oranges,  apples, 
peaches  of  the  temperate  belt,  the  wheat,  barley,  aloes,  the 
oaks,  pines,  and  hemlocks  of  the  tiert'a  fria,  to  the  last  starry 
cryptogam  that  flecks  the  borders  of  the  eternal  snows  ! 

In  no  country  in  the  world  can  you  pass  so  rapidly  from  zone 
to  zone,  —  from  the  blazing  shores  of  the  heated  tropics  to  the 
region  of  perpetual  winter,  from  the  land  of  the  palm  and  vine 
to  that  of  the  pine  and  lichen,  —  for  in  twenty  hours  this  can 
be  accomplished,  and  the  traveller  may  ascend  a  snow  peak  with 
the  sands  of  the  shore  still  upon  his  shoes. 

In  going  over  the  Mexican  railroad,  one  witnesses  a  perfect 
exposition  of  the  products  of  the  entire  country,  for  it  cuts  the 
backbone  of  the  continent,  and  climbs  from  hot,  unhealthy 
coast  to  frigid  mountain-top.  Fancying  yourself  again  in  Vera 
Cruz,  and  that  you  have  seen  the  few  objects  of  interest,  —  the 
plaza,  the  municipal  palace,  custom-house,  convent,  and  library, 
—  you  are  awaiting  anxiously  the  train  that  leaves  for  the  cap- 
ital. The  heavy  cars  roll  finally  out  of  the  station,  across  the 
line  of  ancient  fortifications  (now  levelled),  and  over  the  broad 
llanos  that  border  the  coast.  As  we  speed  over  these  plains, 
we  may,  if  the  moon  be  shining,  obtain  a  parting  glimpse  of 
the  domed  and   turreted   town,  set  in   a  framework  of  tropical 


IN   TIERRA   CALIENTE. 


FROM   COAST   TO   CAPITAL.  20I 

vegetation,  and  the  tropic  night  manifests  itself,  not  only  in  the 
brilliancy  of  its  stars,  but  in  the  myriads  of  its  fire-flies.  These 
insects  of  the  night  may  remind  us  of  the  story  related  by  the 
Spanish  chroniclers,  of  the  army  of  Narvaez,  which  was  put  to 
flight  by  an  apparition  of  these  fire-flies,  they  mistaking  them 
for  the  lights  of  an  approaching  enemy. 

The  ascent  commences  almost  at  the  very  gates  of  Vera  Cruz, 
and  at  the  station  of  Tejeria,  a  place  noted  in  the  history  of 
Mexico,  nine  and  one  half  miles  distant,  we  are  one  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea.  There  are  no  villages  on  the  plains,  and 
few  houses  except  the  ranchos  of  the  cattle-owners,  and  the 
hamlet  of  Purga,  which  reminds  us  emphatically  of  the  drastic 
cathartic  properties  of  the  indigenous  jalap.  Passing  through 
Soledad,  a  hamlet  of  a  few  hundred  people,  the  first  station  of 
any  importance  is  Paso  del  Macho,  containing  fifteen  hundred 
inhabitants,  and  situated  1,560  feet  above  Vera  Cruz.  Three 
miles  beyond  this  station  we  cross  the  bridge  of  San  Alejo,  318 
feet  in  length;  at  Chiquihuite,  another,  220  feet  long;  and  at 
Atoyac  roll  over  the  famous  bridge  of  that  name,  having  a 
length  of  330  feet,  spanning  the  Atoyac  River,  which  empties 
at  the  port  of  Vera  Cruz,  fifty-three  miles  distant.  Like  the 
plains,  which  are  intersected  by  deep  barrancas,  at  the  bottom 
of  which,  in  the  rainy  season,  flow  turbid  rivers,  these  lower 
hills  are  cut  up  by  numerous  ravines,  rich  in  all  the  charming 
vegetation  of  the  tropics,  but  offering  almost  insuperable  obsta- 
cles to  railway  construction.  Beyond  Atoyac  the  ascent  grows 
steeper,  the  grades  continually  increasing,  and  the  course  of  the 
railway  necessarily  becoming  circuitous,  in  order  to  overcome  it. 
Rank  grow  the  wonderful  plants  on  either  side,  tumultuous  rush 
the  rivers  from  mountains  clothed  in  verdure,  each  mile  adding, 
if  possible,  to  the  wealth  of  the  vegetable  kingdom  concentrated 
here,  until  it  reaches  perfection  in  the  valleys  lying  about  Cor- 
dova, twenty-seven  hundred  feet  above  the  sea  and  sixty-five 
miles  from  the  Gulf.  It  is  here  that  the  traveller  first  allows 
himself  to  take  a  long,  free  breath,  without  fear  of  drawing  in 
the  germs  of  yellow  fever  or  malarial  disease.  The  scenery 
delights  him,  and  he  would  gladly  stop  awhile  in  this  region. 


202  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

but  he  has  a  through  ticket  for  Mexico  and  cannot;  and  at 
the  time  of  his  departure  from  the  country  he  forgets  Cordova 
until  he  reaches  it  again  in  passing  through,  and  then  regrets, 
too  late,  that  he  has  not  given  it  a  few  days'  time. 

The  town  of  Cordova,  being  the  central  portion  of  the  coffee 
region  of  the  east  coast,  situated  amidst  scenery  that  may  be 
taken  as  typical  of  this  zone,  should  not  be  passed  by  without 
a  brief  description.  It  was  founded  in  i6i8,  becoming  at  one 
time  a  very  flourishing  city,  with  numerous  sugar  haciendas,  as 
well  as  numberless  coffee  estates ;  but  it  has  greatly  declined 
in  importance.  The  entire  coffee  product  amounted,  in  i88i, 
to  little  more  than  20,000  arrobas,  of  twenty-five  pounds  each, 
while  the  amount  of  tobacco  is  estimated  at  from  150,000  to 
200,000  arrobas.  The  town  lies  nearly  a  mile  from  the  pleas- 
ant station  on  the  Mexican  railroad,  with  which  it  is  connected 
by  an  excellent  tramway,  passing  through  gardens  and  coffee 
groves.  The  central  plaza,  though  small,  is  an  exquisite  little 
garden  of  palms,  flowers,  banana  plants,  and  orange  and  lime 
trees,  kept  in  excellent  order. .  It  has  a  monument,  in  the 
centre  of  a  large  basin  containing  the  water  of  the  town,  in 
memory  of  the  patriots  of  Cordova  who  fought  in  the  revolution 
against  Spanish  dominion ;  it  is  intersected  by  smooth  walks, 
and  has  elegant  iron  seats  at  convenient  stations.  A  large  church 
opposite,  though  evidently  of  ancient  date,  is  being  repaired  and 
somewhat  modernized. 

The  broad  open  space  about  the  plaza  is  used  as  a  market, 
there  being  no  other,  and  here  the  market  men  and  women  sit 
squatted  on  the  stone  pavement.  Sunday  is  the  great  market 
day,  for  all  the  Indians  come  in  from  adjacent  villages  and  take 
possession  of  the  square.  Many  of  them  are  pure  Indians,  and 
dressed  in  peculiar  costumes,  each  tribe  or  village  sporting  a 
different  color.  They  meet  amicably,  and  generally  get  through 
the  day  very  well ;  but  it  is  when  going  home  at  night,  with 
their  skins  full  of  mescal,  or  poor  rum,  that  trouble  occurs,  and 
rarely  a  Sunday  passes  without  several  deaths. 

With  the  reader's  permission,  I  will  anticipate  by  a  few 
months  my  actual  visit  to  Cordova,  and  bring  in  here,  in  the 


BRIDGE    OF   CHIQUIHUITE. 


FROM   COAST   TO   CAPITAL.  205 

sequence  of  our  line  of  travel,  the  results  of  my  observations  in 
the  coffee  district.  The  coffee  region  of  Mexico  is  much  more 
extensive  than  is  generally  supposed,  extending  from  the  coast 
into  the  hills,  even  so  high  up  as  five  thousand  feet  above  the 
sea.  Though  the  plant  grows  well  along  the  coast,  (as  witness 
Liberia,  where  it  springs  up  almost  at  the  water's  edge,)  it  flour- 
ishes best  at  an  altitude  of  from  one  thousand  to  three  thousand 
feet.  This  is  in  sections  that  are  well  supplied  with  rains,  for 
warmth  and  moisture,  so  necessary  to  all  vegetation,  are  re- 
quired by  the  coffee  in  a  greater  degree  than  by  other  plants. 
From  the  fact  that  the  elevated  districts  are  more  salubrious 
than  the  lower,  and  that  the  best  coffee  is  produced  at  the 
highest  altitudes,  —  within  a  certain  limit,  —  we  find  the  largest 
groves  among  the  hills  and  mountains. 

Very  fortunately,  at  the  commencement  of  my  investigations, 
I  fell  in  with  an  extremely  well-informed  gentleman,  Mr.  Hugo 
Finck,  who  had  resided  here  nearly  twenty  years,  a  naturalist  of 
deep  and  inquiring  mind,  speaking  four  languages,  thoroughly 
acquainted  with  the  whole  coast  and  mountain  country  of  the 
Gulf,  and  an  old  "  coffee  raiser,"  besides.  His  plantation  lies 
about  two  miles  from  town,  reached  by  a  road  in  a  not  exactly 
delightful  condition.  I  might  remark  here  that  the  roads  of 
Mexico  are,  as  a  rule,  in  a  horrible  state.  The  government  relies 
so  much  upon  the  railroads  to  connect  all  important  places  that 
the  carriage  roads  and  bridle  paths  are  neglected.  Take  one  of 
our  country  lanes,  cut  ditches  across  it,  dig  deep  pits  in  it,  de- 
molish a  stone  wall  and  cast  into  the  centre  of  it,  run  a  few 
streams  through  it,  and  slush  the  whole  over  so  that  one  can 
hardly  keep  his  footing  on  it,  and  you  have  a  Mexican  coun- 
try road  in  the  rainy  season. 

But  when  we  reached  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  and  the  road 
lay  between  tall  hedgerows  of  flowering  trees  and  tangled  vines, 
we  found  the  air  perfumed  with  spicy  odors,  and  enlivened  by 
the  chirping  of  birds.  After  crossing  a  couple  of  streams,  we 
finally  reached  the  plantation,  and  walked  between  long  rows  of 
coffee  plants.  They  varied  in  age  from  one  year  to  ten,  but  all 
above  two  years  were  well  laden  with  fruit. 


206  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

I  have  considered  well  all  the  various  enterprises,  agricultural 
and  industrial,  possible  in  Mexico,  and  have  come  to  th(^  con- 
clusion that,  if  one  must  come  out  here  and  labor,  —  if  he  feels 
a  decided  "call"  to  till  the  soil,  —  old  Mother  Earth  will  be 
about  as  generous  to  him  in  coffee  culture  as  in  anything. 
Whatever  one  embarks  in,  he  must  wait  some  years  to  see  his 
money  come  back ;  if  he  choose  the  raising  of  cattle,  he  must 
wait  for  them  to  grow,  for  at  least  five  years,  and  run  the  risk 
meanwhile  of  their  dying  or  being  stolen  ;  and,  besides,  they 
can  only  increase  in  certain  proportion ;  no  cow  can  bear  more 
than  one  or  two  calves  a  year,  and  no  calf  will  grow  any  faster 
than  he  pleases,  unless  you  stuff  him  full  of  expensive  meal  and 
grain.  With  corn,  wheat,  and  barley,  you  must  have  hundreds 
of  acres  of  land,  must  prepare  it  carefully,  and  hoe  and  weed  or 
dress  it  several  times  during  the  season ;  and,  after  the  crop  is 
cut  and  stacked,  your  land  is  there  again,  barren  and  exposed 
as  before,  and  you  must  go  through  the  same  process  over 
again. 

With  coffee,  you  plant  your  land  once,  and  that  suffices  for 
several  years.  Looking  at  it  from  my  point  of  view,  —  the  lazy 
man's  outlook,  —  I  can  see  nothing  so  inviting  as  coffee  culture, 
unless  it  be  a  fat  "living"  in  an  English  country  church.  In 
the  first  place,  you  buy  your  land,  of  which  there  is  a  fair  sup- 
ply yet  to  be  had,  at  about  ten  dollars  per  acre.  The  soil  here 
is  mostly  strong,  clayey  loam,  with  a  heavy  top  deposit  of  vege- 
table mould,  very  rich  and  lasting.  It  is  easily  cleared,  and, 
if  not  on  a  steep  hillside,  where  the  perpetual  rains  wash  the 
humus  away,  retains  its  fertility  a  long  while.  After  clearing, 
the  plants,  from  six  months  to  a  year  old,  are  set  out  in  rows 
eight  or  ten  feet  wide,  and  about  six  feet  apart  in  the  row. 
Bananas  or  plantains  should  be  set  out  in  sufficient  number  to 
entirely  shade  the  young  plants ;  these  are  quick-growing,  and 
produce  great  bunches  of  fruit  the  second  year,  so  that  a  small 
income  will  be  coming  in  from  them  before  the  coffee  begins 
to  bear.  Corn  and  tobacco  may  be  planted  among  the  trees, 
if  one  is  in  a  hurry  to  obtain  returns  from  the  land  while  his 
principal   crop  is  growing ;   but  it  will  be  far  better  merely  to 


FROM    COAST   TO   CAPITAL.  207 

keep  the  weeds  down,  till  the  land  thoroughly  without  planting, 
and  do  everything  to  enrich  the  soil  instead  of  exhausting  it. 

Coffee  two  years  from  the  seed  is  frequently  seen  here,  though 
the  trees  rarely  bear  much  before  reaching  the  age  of  three 
years,  and  are  not  in  profitable  bearing  till  four  or  five.  But  I 
have  seen  sturdy  little  trees,  with  their  slender  branches  well 
bunched  with  fruit  and  flowers  at  between  two  and  three  years 
of  age.  Like  the  orange  of  Florida  and  the  lime  of  the  West 
Indies,  the  former  of  which  will  sometimes  bear  at  two  years 
from  the  bud,  and  the  latter  at  two  years  from  the  seed,  little 
reliance  can  be  placed  upon  a  crop  at  less  than  three  or  four. 
The  coffee  is  in  advance  of  them  all,  however,  in  point  of  time, 
for,  while  the  orange  hardly  reaches  maturity  before  its  tenth 
year,  coffee  will  repay  its  owner  in  its  sixth  or  seventh.  An 
advantage  in  favor  of  coffee  over  orange  culture  is,  that  here 
there  can  be  combined  with  it  the  raising  of  every  other 
tropical  fruit.  Here  the  mango  lifts  its  solid  green  head  above 
the  plantations,  though  giving  a  shade  too  dense  to  be  desira- 
ble, as  well  as  the  avocado  pear,  and  even  the  peach  and 
walnut. 

In  Mr.  Finck's  cafetal,  or  coffee  grounds,  we  may  see  as  great 
a  variety  of  trees  and  smaller  plants  as  is  usually  found  in  a 
jardin  des  plantes,  for  he  is  an  accomplished  botanist,  and  knows 
every  plant  in  this  region.  He  is  especially  devoted  to  orchids, 
and  has  collected  here  the  rarest  species,  from  the  snow  line  of 
Orizaba  to  the  hot  lands  of  the  coast,  keeping  them  in  great 
beds  in  the  shade,  and  wired  to  the  trees  with  densest  vegetation. 
For  a  few  years  past  he  has  been  introducing  the  cinchona, 
and  is  the  first  one  who  has  done  it  with  success.  From  this 
tree  he  expects  eventually  to  derive  greater  profit  than  from  his 
coffee.  The  cinchona  is  not  indigenous  to  Mexico  ;  I  am  moved 
to  say  this  because  of  an  article  in  a  Western  paper  describing 
the  forests  of  the  lowlands  as  being  full  of  it.  In  that  article, 
detailing  in  glowing  terms  the  resources  of  Mexico,  I  found 
several  products  of  the  country  that  no  botanist  has  discovered 
there  yet. 

It  is  a  delightful  zone  that  combines  climate  and  soil  so  har- 


208  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

moniously  that  you  may  raise  in  it  the  fruits  of  any  two,  —  of  the 
tropic  and  temperate.  It  reminds  me  of  the  coffee  region  of  the 
West  Indies  in  vegetation,  cHmate,  scenery,  and  even  in  birds. 
A  corner  of  Mr.  Finck's  large  estate  is  bounded  by  a  brook, 
which  has  hollowed  a  segment  from  a  round  hill,  leaving  a  per- 
pendicular wall  of  earth  adorned  with  ferns,  with  interesting 
carludovicas,  antheriums,  and  tree  ferns ;  the  last  waving  their 
feathery  foliage  in  the  air  with  a  grace  inimitable.  There  are  a 
score  of  nooks  equally  charming  with  this,  which  I  visited  in 
company  with  the  learned  botanist,  but  will  not  describe,  because 
there  is  a  young  man  waiting  for  us  whose  experience,  though 
short,  may  prove  of  greater  interest. 

For  $3500  this  young  man  {who,  by  the  way,  came  from 
Illinois)  has  bought  about  fifty  acres  of  beautiful  land,  more  than 
half  of  it  planted  with  trees,  and  in  good  condition.  This  is 
about  the  minimum,  if  one  intends  devoting  himself  to  coffee 
alone,  that  can  well  support  a  family  and  prove  profitable. 
Even  then,  this  number  of  acres  should  be  well  cultivated,  with 
very  little  waste  land.  One  hundred  acres  would  be  better,  in 
order  that  fifty  or  more  might  be  in  bearing  all  the  time.  With 
this  young  man  I  went  out  to  look  at  his  recent  purchase,  which 
lay  about  a  mile  from  town,  near  enough  to  avail  of  all  the  con- 
veniences of  transportation  and  markets,  and  far  enough  to  avoid 
the  depredations  of  boys  and  yet  get  a  good  taste  of  the  typical 
Mexican  road.  As  we  entered,  we  found  ourselves  surrounded 
by  trees  four  and  five  years  old,  about  five  feet  high,  every 
branch  loaded  wfth  glossy  green  bunches.  The  coffee,  as  every 
one  knows,  is  not  a  bush,  but  a  tree,  that  will  grow  to  a  height  of 
twenty  feet  if  permitted,  but  is  nipped  in  at  about  six  feet  from 
the  ground,  thus  gaining  strength  for  the  branches  and  main 
stalk,  and  presenting  a  surface  from  which  the  coffee  is  easily 
picked.  Though  the  tree  is  constantly  flowering  and  developing 
fruit,  the  proper  harvest  season  is  from  November  to  April,  —  a 
little  prolonged  if  carried  into  the  latter  month.  The  green  ber- 
ries turn  bright  red,  are  gathered,  dried  on  level  floors  of  stone 
or  plaster  in  the  sun,  separated  and  hulled,  and  then  stored. 
According  to    statistics    prepared    for   the    State    Fair  of  Vera 


FROM   COAST  TO   CAPITAL. 


209 


Cruz,  held  in  Orizaba  in  the  autumn,  the  export  of  coffee  from 
the  canton  of  Cordova  for  1880  was  5,500,000  pounds;  for 
1881,  from  7,000,000  to  7,500,000  pounds!  The  area  in  coffee 
trees  is  constantly  being  added  to,  and  the  trees  themselves  are 
growing  rapidly,  and  I  do  not  fear  to  predict  for  1883  a  crop 
yielding  not  far  from  10,000,000  pounds.  The  trade  is  largely 
in  the  hands  of  New  Orleans  parties,  who  buy  the  berry  at 
less  than  ten  cents  per  pound. 

Much  is   being  said  regarding  the  superiority  of  the  coffee 
from   Michoacan,  but  Michoacan   is  a  far  country,  a  country  of 

volcanoes  and  internal  strife.  

Experience  has  proved  that 

coffee  grown  in  one  section 

can  be  raised  equally  well  in 

another,   and  the  difference 


IN  A  CAFETAL. 


between  the  dry  climate  of  Michoacan  and  this  may  be  obtained 
by  a  change  of  altitude.  Coffee  introduced  from  Liberia  into  the 
West  Indies  flourished  just  as  well  as  it  did  in  Africa.  The 
planters  here  are  not  insensible  to  the  advantages  sometimes 
resulting  from  a  change  of  seed,  and  are  experimenting  with 
several  varieties,  chiefly  with  some  from  Colima.  I  must  con- 
fess that  I  never  tasted  worse  coffee  than  I  got  in  Mexico ;  and 
if  it  is  the  result  of  my  taste  having  been  depraved  by  chicory, 
then  give  me  chicory. 

14 


2IO  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO 

I  left  my  friend  standin^^  in  his  coffee  grove,  surrounded  by 
trees  high  as  his  shoulder,  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  He  was 
justly  proud  of  his  purchase,  and  the  feeling  of  envy  came  as 
near  having  a  lodgment  in  my  breast  as  possible.  Aside  from 
building  a  house  and  superintending  the  setting  out  of  new  trees, 
he  has  little  to  do  henceforward  but  to  gather  his  crops  and  count 
the  receipts.  Five  years  is  not  a  long  time  to  wait,  especially 
as  small  crops  can  be  raised  in  the  interval,  which  will  more  than 
pay  for  the  labor.  Five  years  is  not  long,  when  every  year  adds 
an  appreciable  height  to  the  plants,  and  the  second  year  brings 
spicy  flowers,  like  bunches  of  arbutus,  with  fruit  glossy  as  wax. 
The  monotony  of  the  seasons  may  be  varied  by  studying  out 
arid  planting  the  various  vegetables  that  will  grow  at  different 
times  of  the  year.  One  with  a  taste  for  botany  need  never  be  at 
a  loss,  having  a  vast  storehouse  all  around  him  in  the  mountains 
and  valleys,  and  no  winter  to  destroy  such  plants  as  he  may 
collect. 

We  stood  upon  the  highest  part  of  a  coffee-crowned  knoll, 
with  hills  and  valleys  all  around  us,  and  the  mighty  peak  of 
snow-crowned  Orizaba  towering  above  the  clouds  behind  us, 
and  planned  the  house,  and  the  avenue,  and  the  observa- 
tory that  should  give  at  a  glance  the  entire  beautiful  valley. 
This  is  the  bright  side  of  the  picture,  and  I  hope  no  other  will 
be  presented,  either  to  my  new  friend,  or  to  any  who  may  follow 
him. 

The  train  from  the  coast  reaches  Cordova  as  the  first  rays  of 
morning  give  the  snow  cone  of  Orizaba  a  soft  rose  tint.  Here 
the  people  come  out  with  coffee,  fruit,  and  native  decoctions, 
fondly  hoping  that  the  traveller  will  buy  of  them  and  break  his 
fast.  Five  miles  beyond  the  station,  the  train  runs  more  slowly, 
as  it  is  approaching  one  of  the  most  dangerous  passes  on  the 
road,  and,  turning  sharply  to  the  right,  enters  the  weird  and 
wonderful  barranca  of  Metlac.  Running  along  the  brink  of  this 
tremendous  ravine  for  a  while,  we  suddenly  dart  to  the  left  and 
cross  the  bridge  which  spans  it,  at  a  curve  of  three  hundred  and 
twenty-five  feet  radius,  ninety  feet  above  the  foaming  river  below. 
Five  tunnels  are  in  sight  on  the  opposite  side  before  the  bridge 


■'"'latiiLoL 


FROM    COAST   TO    CAPITAL. 


213 


is  crossed,  dark  holes  that  pierce  the  mountain  buttresses,  the 
first  of  which  is  taken  at  the  end  of  the  viaduct.  Three  minutes 
from  the  time  we  leave  the  right  bank  of  the  barranca  we  are 
running  a  parallel  course,  diving  in  and  out  of  successive  tun- 
nels, having  plunged  into  an  immense  cid-de-sac,  as  it  were,  on 
one  side,  and  found  our  way  out  on  the  other.  At  times  there 
are  curves  on  which  we  can  see  the  train  from  end  to  end,  and 
all  the  time  we  are  continually  ascending. 

From  the  last  of  the  tunnels  we  emerge  upon  a  great  table- 
land, and  look  out  over  broad  stretches  of  cultivable  acres, 
peaceful  plains  dotted  with  cattle,  billowy  ranges,  spurs  and 
peaks,  and,  above  all,  the  great  volcano,  smiling  serenely  upon 
us.  How  beautiful  are  these  high  plains  !  Right  in  sight  is  the 
land  of  snow,  before  us  and  behind  us  the  land  of  tropic  heat. 
The  valley  into  which  the  great  ravine  opens  is  a  vast  field  of 
coffee,  rice,  sugar-cane,  tobacco,  and  corn.  The  area  between 
Cordova  and  Orizaba  is,  perhaps,  the  most  fertile  and  desirable 
to  live  in,  in  Mexico.  Here  the  products  of  three  zones  mingle ; 
corn  and  coffee  interlace  their  leaves,  peach  trees  lift  their  heads 
above  fields  of  tasselled  cane,  and  grapes  and  mangos  grow 
together  in  blooming  gardens.  With  a  stable  government  and 
with  thorough  cultivation,  what  might  not  this  territory  attain  to  ! 
The  scenery  is  magnificent ;  elevated  knolls  along  the  road  give 
desirable  spots  for  building  sites ;  great  sugar  estates  are  yellow 
with  cane,  good  as  any  raised  in  the  West  Indies.  Nothing  is 
wrong  or  misplaced  except  the  inhabitants,  who  have  disfigured 
the  face  of  nature  with  their  vile  habitations. 

And  these  habitations,  by  the  material  of  which  they  are 
built  and  their  manner  of  construction,  indicate  of  themselves 
the  increase  in  altitude  and  consequent  depression  of  the  ther- 
mometer. In  the  tiei'ra  caliente  they  are  constructed  of  bamboo 
and  light  poles,  open  alike  to  wind  and  sun,  for  a  slight  shelter 
suffices  for  the  tropics.  In  the  tierra  templada  the  wood  used  is 
heavier,  and  the  structure  more  durable,  while  the  better  classes, 
especially  in  the  towns,  are  of  mud  or  stone.  On  the  uplands 
of  the  tierra  fria  the  dwellings  are  o{  adobe,  or  sun-dried  brick, 
and  of  stone. 


2  14  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

The  environs  of  Orizaba  appear  beyond,'  lovely  so  far  as  nature 
can  make  them,  with  gardens  of  coffee,  lanes  running  beneath 
large  trees,  and  red-roofed  houses  nestling  beneath  broad-leaved 
plantains.  This  valley,  though  situated  four  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea,  is  yet  within  the  limits  of  the  tierra  calientc.  It  is 
a  trifle  cooler  than  Cordova,  less  subject  to  fevers  and  to  attacks 
from  the  vomito,  and  has  inviting  hotels,  —  inviting  for  Mexico, 
—  streams,  cascades,  bathing-places,  and  good  shops  and  mar- 
kets. The  climate  is  hot  and  humid,  and  the  mosquitoes  alert 
and  vigorous ;  hence,  the  beneficial  activity  of  the  latter  pre- 
vents the  visitor  from  experiencing  the  enervating  effect  of  the 
former.     There  are  many  churches  here,  all  of  them  interesting, 


A    NATIVE   HUT. 


several  factories  and  mills,  and  the  great  machine-shops  of  the 
Mexican  road,  where  engines  are  repaired  and  built. 

The  city  of  Orizaba,  eighty-two  miles  from  Vera  Cruz,  and 
containing  about  13,000  inhabitants,  is  said  to  occupy  the  site 
of  a  village  founded  a  long  while  ago,  and  conquered  by  Mon- 
tezuma in  1457.  Its  original  Aztec  name,  says  one  writer,  was 
Ahauializapan,  or  Joy  of  the  Water,  which  is  a  slight  misnomer, 
since  the  inhabitants  not  only  do  not  take  joy  in  the  water  here, 
but  are  indebted  to  it  for  much  dysentery  and  fever.  During 
the  French  intervention  it  was  occupied  by  those  interlopers 
from  Europe,  and  was  a  favorite  resort  with  Maximilian  during 
his  brief  reign  in  Mexico.     Mount  Borrego,  where  one  hundred 


FROM    COAST   TO    CAPITAL.  21 5 

French  zouaves  are  said  to  have  routed  five  thousand  men  of 
the  Mexican  army,  is  a  conspicuous  object  near  the  town.  The 
station  here  is  the  best  on  the  road ;  it  is  half  a  mile  distant 
from  the  town,  and  connected  with  it  by  road  and  tramway. 

Above  Orizaba  the  rails  are  drawn  over  fertile  fields  and 
wooded  hills,  through  a  fine  country,  rapidly  growing  poorer, 
where  they  run  straight  away  towards  the  hills,  and  then  make  a 
decided  dash  for  the  mountains.  In  half  an  hour  from  the  small 
station  of  Encinal,  we  enter  the  gloomy  gorge  known  as  El 
Infernillo,  the  Little  Hell,  passing  over  dizzy  banks  and  bridges, 
above  a  stream  which  has  worn  a  deep  chasm  in  the  trap  rock. 
A  black  cross  on  a  projecting  point  indicates  death  and  danger, 
and  reminds  us  of  the  fate  that  awaits  him  who  slips  from  the 
track  above.  Far  below,  gazing  downward  from  the  dizzy  bridge 
we  are  crossing,  upheld  by  slender  columns,  we  can  see  a  little 
stream  dashing  into  a  black  and  dismal  ravine,  where  it  is  lost, 
until  it  reappears  on  the  plain  we  have  left.  Plunging  into 
a  tunnel,  we  emerge  at  the  other  end  into  scenery  radically  dif- 
ferent, for  we  have  now  reached  the  region  of  pines,  more  than 
five  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  A  little  valley  lies  spread 
before  us  now,  an  emerald  embosomed  in  the  mountains,  called 
La  Joya,  the  Jewel,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  the  station  of 
Maltrata.  Just  as  the  whistle  sounds  for  this  station,  the  vol- 
cano of  Orizaba  bursts  upon  the  view  again,  its  whole  snow- 
white  summit  rising  majestically  above  the  hills.  The  train  is 
met  by  hundreds  of  Indian  girls  and  women,  holding  out  baskets 
of  fruit,  such  as  peaches,  pomegranates,  oranges,  pine-apples, 
avocado  pears,  and  tamalcs,  or  meat  smothered  in  corn  paste, 
cakes,  tortillas,  and  bottles  of  pulque ;  everything,  in  fact,  that 
the  Mexican  taste  (limited)  is  supposed  to  crave.  Peach  trees 
line  the  track  at  the  station,  and  all  the  houses  have  gardens 
about  them,  as  this  is  a  suburb,  and  the  town  extends  farther 
into  the  valley. 

Beyond  this  the  track  literally  climbs  the  mountain,  approach- 
ing it  by  great  curves.  At  La  Bota,  where  the  engine  stops 
for  water,  and  where  they  take  on  a  supply  of  wood,  —  pine 
wood  that  gives  out  a  resinous  odor,  —  the  down  train  can   be 


2l'6  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

seen  creeping  slowly  on  its  course,  held  in  check  by  the  power- 
ful engine.  All  the  way  up  the  hills  you  can  trace  the  road,  its 
serpentine  trail  drawn  in  and  out  the  valley  and  along  the  ridges, 
ever  and  anon  doubling  upon  itself,  but  ever  climbing.  At  last 
we  reach  another  water-tank,  perched  at  the  crest  of  a  ridge, 
after  having  ascended  over  a  grade  of  nearly  five  per  cent 
through  rock  cuts  hung  with  ferns,  severing  the  backs  of  the 
buttresses  that  come  down  from  the  mountains  above,  and 
through  tunnels  that  pierce  them  one  after  another.  Looking 
down  upon  the  hills  and  dales  clothed  in  pines  and  oaks,  we 
might  imagine  ourselves  in  New  Hampshire,  but  we  are  already 
higher  than  Mount  Washington  ! 

Here  the  view  is  of  surpassing  beauty.  Far  to  the  left  the 
volcano  rears  its  white  peak  above  ranks  of  sombre  pines,  and 
right  beneath  is  a  variegated  landscape,  alternate  groves,  copses, 
fields,  and  garden  spots,  through  which  is  traced  the  sinuous 
line  of  the  iron  road.  Beyond  the  tank  is  a  narrow  iron  bridge, 
ninety  feet  long,  and  spanning  a  chasm  that  ends  only  at  the 
valley  below.  If  any  support  should  snap  here,  nothing  could 
save  us  from  being  precipitated  two  thousand  feet  downward. 
At  the  bridge  the  fair  vale  of  Maltrata  again  lies  before  us, 
though  ten  miles  distant  by  the  track,  and  nearly  three  thousand 
feet  below.  Glorious  are  the  views  of  Maltrata  obtained  as  the 
train  rushes  in  and  out  the  cuts.  The  valley  is  perfectly  flat, 
divided  into  squares  by  hedges  and  walls,  with  every  shade 
of  green,  with  houses  and  trees  most  picturesquely  grouped, 
waving  with  grain  in  places,  and  golden  where  the  harvest  is 
done.  Exactly  in  its  centre  is  a  red-domed  church,  and  a 
square  with  portals  and  fountain ;  every  inch  is  cultivated  be- 
yond the  town,  where  verdant  valleys  run  up  into  the  hills, 
the  slopes  of  which  are  yellow  with  grain  and  brown  with  up- 
turned earth.  Hill  is  piled  upon  hill,  stretching  away  to  the 
horizon  till  lost  in  purple  haze.  We  are  cutting  the  crests  of 
a  hundred  ridges,  crawling  along  the  summits  of  mountains, 
now  peering  into  dark  chasms  a  thousand  feet  deep,  contain- 
ing streams  drawn  fine  as  silver  threads,  now  penetrating- 
forests  of  pines,  black  and  vast. 


FROM    COAST   TO    CAPITAL.  217 

Crossing  the  last  terrible  bridge,  on  a  curve,  as  at  Metlac, 
and  diving  through  the  last  dark  tunnel,  we  finally  reach  Boca 
del  Monte,  the  "  Mountain's  Mouth,"  at  an  altitude  of  seven 
thousand  nine  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  In  the  last  thirteen 
miles  we  have  climbed  over  three  thousand  perpendicular  feet ; 
a  stream,  that  we  saw  in  the  valley  below  as  a  foaming  river, 
is  now  so  narrow  that  a  boy  could  leap  across  it,  for  we  are 
at  its  source. 

We  are  now  fairly  out  upon  the  great  upland  plateau  ;  we 
have  passed  successively  through  tierras  caliente  and  templada, 
and  are  now  in  tierra  fria,  the  cold  country.  After  dry  and 
bushy  hills,  we  pass  over  a  plain  swelling  into  knolls  covered 
with  open  oak  woods,  alternating  with  green,  flower- carpeted 
pastures.  In  the  centre  of  an  emerald  plain  is  a  blue  pond, 
with  sheep  and  cattle  feeding  on  the  slopes  around  it.  A  few 
miles  farther,  at  a  point  indicating  one  hundred  and  eleven 
miles  from  Vera  Cruz,  and  nearly  eight  thousand  feet  above  the 
sea,  is  the  station  of  Esperanza.  A  long  stop  is  made  here  for 
the  passengers  to  get  breakfast,  which  is  abundant  and  well 
cooked.  Here,  also,  the  great  double-ended  Fairlie  engine, 
the  steam  giant  that  has  drawn  us  over  the  tremendous  grades 
below,  is  taken  off  and  replaced  by  a  lighter  American  one, 
as  the  plain  now  extends  the  whole  distance  of  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  to  the  capital. 

Esperanza  is  the  Spanish  equivalent  for  Hope.  The  station 
bearing  this  name  is  situated  at  the  beginning  of  a  vast  sandy 
plain,  producing  thin  crops  of  grain ;  and  as  there  are  no  other 
buildings  than  those  of  the  station,  and  nothing  of  interest 
nearer  than  the  volcanic  foot-hills  of  Orizaba,  the  unfortunate 
traveller.who  is  compelled  to  stay  here  for  a  day  or  two,  realizes 
why  it  was  called  Hope,  —  because  he  hopes  to  find  a  better 
place  beyond,  and  is  certain  he  can  enter  none  drearier.  The 
best  view  of  the  great  volcano  of  Orizaba  is  here,  —  that  snow 
mountain  which  has  been  dancing  attendance  upon  us  since 
long  before  we  reached  the  shore,  and  playing  hide  and  seek 
with  us  behind  the  hills,  all  along  the  line.  Now  he  is  un- 
masked,   for    he    shoots    up   from    the  very  plains  we   are   on, 


2l8  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

in    the    morning    cold    and    glittering,    in    the    evening   hidden 
by  clouds. 

The  peak  of  Orizaba,  according  to  Humboldt,  attains  to  a 
height  of  17,378  feet.  Though  not  so  accessible  as  Popocata- 
petl,  which  is  four  hundred  feet  higher,  Orizaba  has  been  several 
times  ascended.  The  first  ascent  was  by  a  party  of  American 
officers,  in  1848;  and  the  second,  by  a  Frenchman,  Alexander 
Doignon,  in  185  i,  who  found  a  staff  with  the  date  1848  cut  into 
it,  and  the  tattered  remains  of  a  United  States  Hag.  Till  then 
it  was  regarded  as  wholly  inaccessible,  and  it  was  not  until  the 
gallant  Frenchman  made  a  second  attempt  (which  nearly  cost 
him  his  life)  that  the  wondering  natives  could  credit  him,  and 
award  the  honor  of  the  first  achievement  to  the  modest  Ameri- 
cans. The  starting  point  for  the  peak  is  from  the  little  village  of 
San  Andres,  near  the  base  of  the  cone,  some  of  the  inhabitants 
of  which  obtain  ice  from  the  summit. 

The  God  of  the  Air,  Quetzalcoatl,  after  shaking  the  dust 
of  Cholula  from  his  shoes,  and  having  died  on  the  coast  of 
Goatzcoalcos,  was  brought  to  the  peak  of  Orizaba,  and  his 
body  consumed  by  fire.  His  spirit  took  its  flight  toward 
heaven  in  the  shape  of  a  peacock,  and  since  that  time  the 
burning  mountain  has  borne  the  name  of  Ciltlaltepetl,  or  Moun- 
tain of  the  Star. 

The  next  station  of  importance  is  San  Marcos,  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  from  Vera  Cruz,  v/here  the  narrow-gauge  railroad 
from  the  latter  city  to  Puebla  and  Mexico,  by  the  way  of  Jalapa, 
crosses  the  Feri'ocarril  Mexicana.  We  are  now  in  Tlascala,  that 
little  state  whose  heroic  people,  at  war  with  Montezuma  at  the 
time  of  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards,  tested  their  invincibility  in 
a  terrible  battle.  Being  defeated,  they  made  a  treaty ^with  the 
white  strangers,  subsequently  saving  them  from  annihilation. 
We  shall  meet  the  conquistadores  again,  as  we  visit  Tlascala, 
Cholula,  and  Mexico ;  they  are  only  mentioned  in  this  connec- 
tion because,  somewhere  on  these  plains,  and  probably  in  this 
vicinity,  we  cross  their  line  of  march. 

Across  these  sandy  plains,  environed  by  chalky  hills  above 
which    rises  the   isolated   peak  of  Malinche,  sometimes  may  be 


FROM    COAST    TO    CAPITAL. 


219 


seen,  in  the  dry  season,  perpendicular  columns  of  sand  and  dust 
dancing  on  the  surface,  like  water-spouts  over  the  sea. 

At  the  station  of  Huamantla,  an  adobe  village  with  a  large 
white  church,  one  hundred  miles  from  Mexico,  as  at  every 
stopping-place  on  the  line,  groups  of  horsemen  in  leather  jack- 
ets and  trousers,  and  wide  sombreros,  are  drawn  up  along  the 
track.  These  are  the  "  rural  guards,"  who  have  a  truly  rural 
look  indeed,  and  who,  being  better  paid  than  the  regular  sol- 


W./%<:^i- 


^^'^^ii^/f'^ipiiS 


PEAK.    AND    CRATER    OF    ORIZARA. 


diers  who  accompany  every  train  by  the  car-full,  are  supposed 
to  be  of  greater  service  in  case  of  an  emergency.  In  fact, 
the  regulars  have  been  known  to  be  perfectly  oblivious  of  the 
existence  of  robbers,  even  when  the  latter  were  firing  guns 
and  pistols  within  a  hundred  feet  of  them,  and  depriving 
passengers  of  their  entire  possessions ! 

Apizaco  is  another  adobe  village,  one  hundred  and  seventy- 


220  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

six  miles  from  the  coast,  where  there  is  a  restaurant,  and  here 
a  branch  Hnc  leaves  the  main  Hne  for  the  city  of  Puebla.  At 
Soltepec,  seventy  miles  from  Mexico,  we  are  at  an  elevation 
above  the  sea  of  8,224  feet;  but,  beyond,  the  plain  gradually 
declines  to  the  Mexican  valley. 

We  have  long  been  in  the  region  made  famous  for  the 
maguey  (^Agave  Americana),  and  at  the  station  of  Apam,  fifty- 
eight  miles  from  Mexico,  are  in  the  centre  of  the  "  pulque  coun- 
try." Fields  of  wheat  and  barley  took  the  place  of  tobacco 
and  sugar-cane  many  a  mile  back,  but  these  in  turn  yield  to 
that  wonderful  native  of  the  Mexican  plateau.  Immense  fields 
stretch  away  on  every  side,  unbounded  by  walls,  but  crossed  by 
a  thousand  rows  of  the  maguey,  and  in  the  distance  gleam  the 
white  walls  of  the  haciendas,  fort-like  structures  with  pierced 
and  battlemented  walls,  that  pertain  to  domains  from  six  to 
ten  leagues  in  extent.  Droves  of  horses  and  herds  of  cattle 
roam  the  pastures  in  the  intervales,  and  blue  lakes  sparkle,  in 
the  rainy  season,  where  in  the  dry  months  all  is  parched  and 
brown. 

The  only  remaining  station  of  historic  importance  is  Otumba, 
and  its  position  has  been  indicated  long  before  we  reach  it ;  for 
two  miles  away  rise  those  gigantic  pyramids  of  the  Sun  and 
Moon.  Gliding  down  the  fertile  plains,  past  the  shadowy  pyra- 
mids, along  the  borders  of  the  shallow  lake,  Tezcoco,  under  the 
brown  hills  of  Guadalupe,  we  are  at  last  fairly  within  the  great 
valley  of  Anahuac,  the  original  centre  of  Mexican  civilization, 
and  there  before  us  lies  the  beautiful  city,  capital  of  Mexico, 
bathed  perchance  in  the  golden  beams  of  the  departing  sun. 
And  into  this  valley,  the  former  theatre  of  strife  between  a 
multitude  of  peoples,  towards  which  in  years  past  the  eyes  of 
the  world  have  been  turned  in  amazement,  we  enter  by  the 
train,  and  roll  into  the  suburbs  of  the  city. 


XII. 

CITY   OF   MEXICO. 

T  EFT  standing  in  the  station,  after  all  the  passengers  had 
-*— ^  departed,  no  coach  within  hail,  and  with  no  one  speaking 
my  native  tongue  to  advise  me,  I  knew  not  which  way,  nor 
how,  to  go.  Looking  about  for  some  straw  to  catch  at,  that 
might  float  me  perchance  into  a  comfortable  hotel,  I  saw  a 
group  of  people  taking  leave  of  some  would-be  passengers  by 
the  return  train  for  the  coast.  Drawing  near  them,  keeping 
one  eye  on  my  gun-cases  and  trunks,  I  soon  ascertained  that 
they  spoke  English,  and  were  moreover  Americans.  Suddenly 
there  came  to  my  ears  a  familiar  expression,  —  "  O  yes,  I  'm  right 
along  in  the  procession  !  " — and  I  said  to  myself,  "  My  gracious  ! 
there  is  Hooper."  Now  everybody  in  Mexico  knows  Hooper,  — 
from  his  frequent  visits,  from  his  facility  for  making  acquaint- 
ance, from  his  jolly  good  nature,  and  his  entire  willingness  to 
impart  information.  In  truth,  I  have  known  Hooper  to  convey 
to  an  unsuspicious  stranger  intelligence  of  such  a  character  as 
made  the  hair  of  that  individual  bristle  with  horror ;  and  then, 
again,  I  have  known  him  to  talk  so  hopefully  (to  ladies)  about 
the  beauty,  the  loveliness,  and  the  perfect  security  in  which  life 
and  property  rejoiced  in  Mexico,  that  they  would  declare  their 
determination  to  do  the  country  on  foot  and  unprotected.  But 
then  it  depended  altogether  upon  what  kind  of  information 
you  wanted.  Hooper  always  gave  you  just  what  you  desired ; 
you  had  only  to  tell  him  where  you  were  going,  and  he  would 
contrive  so  many  and  such  varied  delights  for  that  place  as  to 
fairly  ravish  you  with  joy.  If  you  wanted  a  gold  mine  in  prox- 
imity to  picturesque  scenery,  there  you  had  it ;  if  you  wanted 
to  slay  a  brigand  on  the  road,  it  was  just  infested  with  them,  — 


222  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

not  too  many  for  comfort,  but  enough  to  furnish  a  spice  »f 
adventure  and  satisfy  your  appetite  for  blood ;  but  if  you  were 
at  all  timid,  and  abhorred  the  thought  of  bloodshed,  why  that 
road  was  just  a  walk-over,  there  was  not  a  robber  within  one 
hundred  miles. 

Well,  in  short,  there  was  Hooper,  just  as  lively  as  when  I 
last  left  him  on  board  ship,  and  with  a  host  of  friends  down  to 
see  him  off.  The  reception  he  gave  me  was  most  cordial,  for 
Hooper  is  from  Buncombe  County,  and  he  at  once  dragged 
me  up  and  introduced  me  to  his  party  of  friends.  In  five  min- 
utes, it  was  arranged  that  I  was  to  occupy  the  room  he  had 
just  vacated  at  the  hotel ;  I  was  introduced  and  consigned  to 
the  landlady  thereof,  and  as  comfortably  settled  as  if  I  had 
known  them  a  century.  The  train  rolled  out,  bearing  the 
generous-hearted  Hooper,  and  his  friends  took  me  in  charge 
and  led  the  way  to  the  hotel. 

It  is  not  always  that  one  so  easily  effects  an  entrance  into  a 
strange  city  in  a  new  country.  The  room  assigned  me  was 
one  after  my  own  heart,  a  walled-off  corner  of  a  house-top, 
commanding  a  wide-spread  view  of  stone-walls  and  roofs,  and 
of  the  entire  valley  of  Mexico.  Moreover  there  was,  right 
within  a  stone's  throw,  the  grand  cathedral,  and  the  plaza  that 
had  been  once  adorned  with  the  more  ancient  temple  of  the 
Aztecs.  I  was  landed  right  in  the  centre  of  historic  Mexico,  in 
a  position  most  favorable  for  studying  and  enjoying  it,  without 
previous  care  or  wearisome  house-hunting.  Surely,  it  seems 
sometimes  as  though  it  were  always  best  to  drift  with  the  stream, 
when  once  launched  upon  it.  Gathering  here  my  various  "  traps  " 
about  me,  I  intrenched  myself  in  this  stronghold,  purposing  to 
sally  forth  and  attack  the  city  leisurely,  as  Cortes  did,  putting 
behind  me  a  portion  at  a  time,  till  all  should  be  conquered. 

My  room,  as  I  have  said,  was  secluded,  on  the  roof.  There 
was  no  other  here,  and  access  to  it  was  by  a  single  stairway, 
through  the  kitchen  and  servants'  quarters.  A  single  door  and 
window  gave  abundant  light  and  air ;  but  there  were  also  two 
small  square  holes,  —  one  through  the  door  and  one  through 
the  thick  stone  wall.     These  were  closed  by  means  of  sliding 


CITY    OF    MEXICO.  223 

shutters.  Their  use  was  a  matter  of  doubt  to  me,  and  I  asked 
a  friend  their  meaning.  Then  he  explaine'd :  they  were  loop- 
holes; I  could  convert  my  room  into  a  regular  block-house  and 
stand  a  siege.  My  friend  told  me  why  the  room  had  been  loop- 
holed.  When  Hooper  was  here,  some  thief  came  and  stole  a 
fine  revolver,  then  he  came  again  and  took  away  the  holster, 
and  a  few  nights  later  carried  off  the  cartridges.  Hooper  was 
very  wroth  at  this,  though  a  moment's  reflection  would  have 
convinced  him  that  no  thief  who  thought  anything  of  himself 
would  care  for  a  revolver  without  holster  or  cartridges.  But 
Hooper  got  angry,  though  he  could  never  get  sight  of  the 
robber,  and  various  articles  disappeared  from  time  to  time. 

This  was  during  a  former  visit  of  Hooper's  to  Mexico,  two 
years  ago.     A  lady  was  the  next  occupant  of  this  room, —  a 
woman  of  nerve  and  determination ;   she   had  the   walls  loop- 
holed,  had    a    bell-rope,   telephone,   etc.  attached,   and   calmly, 
awaited  the  robber. 

He  came ;  he  shook  the  door  gently,  and  tried  to  get  it  open  ; 
but  this  lady  was  ready  for  him.  She  opened  fire  at  once,  jin- 
gled the  bell,  and  shouted  through  the  telephone,  and  then 
sallied  out,  intending  to  surround  the  robber  and  capture  him, 
with  the  aid  of  the  party  that  was  to  come  up  the  stairs  to  her 
rescue.  During  all  this  time  she  was  letting  off  her  revolver  in 
a  rather  aimless  way,  and  so  the  rescuing  party  halted  beneath 
the  stairs  and  inquired  what  she  wanted.  By  the  time  they 
found  out,  after  prudently  waiting  till  her  stock  of  ammunition 
was  exhausted,  they  also  found  that  the  robber  had  escaped. 

Information  of  such  a  character  was  calculated  to  increase 
my  interest  in  the  room,  and  to  assure  me  of  an  acquaintance 
with  a  trait  of  Mexican  character  not  at  all  desirable. 

From  the  peculiar  manner  of  construction  of  the  buildings 
of  the  city  of  Mexico,  with  solid  walls  and  flat  stone  roofs,  all 
connected,  a  person  can  walk  from  one  end  of  a  block  to  the 
other  —  barring  such  interruptions  as  that  lady  purposed  to 
offer  —  without  any  trouble  whatever.  The  houses  of  the  city 
are  built  in  squares,  or  blocks,  called  manzanas}  200  varus,  or 

1  A  manzana  is  a  square  measure  of  100  x  100  yards. 


224  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

660  feet,  in  length.  The  Hispano-Moriscan  st}lc  of  architec- 
ture is  the  same  throughout  the  countr)-,  and  gives  to  every  cit>" 
and  town  a  resemblance  to  every  other,  with  wide  paved  streets 
crossing  each  other  at  right  angles  and  terminating  in  a  great 
square  in  the  centre.  The  houses,  massively  built,  of  stone,  are 
also  all  after  the  same  pattern.  From  the  street,  through  a 
great  doorway,  closed  at  night  by  a  barred  and  bolted  door 
studded  with  nails,  you  enter  the  patio,  or  lower  court,  flagged 
with  stone  and  surrounded  by  the  stables  and  servants'  quarters. 
This  door  is  rarely  wide  open  for  free  ingress  and.  egress,  but 
is  loosely  chained,  and  strictly  guarded  by  the  portero,  who 
occupies  a  little  room  on  the  ground  floor.  This  court  is 
open  to  the  sky,  and  above  it  are  usually  two  ranges  of  living 
and  sleeping  rooms,  with  corridors  in  front,  ornamented  with 
tasteful  iron  balustrades,  gay  with  flowers  and  vines,  and  some- 
times cooled  by  the  waters  of  a  plashing  fountain.  Except  in 
a  house  occupying  a  corner  lot,  only  one  wall  opens  upon 
the  street,  and  the  windows  of  this  are  \\cll  guarded  with  iron 
bars,  and  closely  curtained ;  so  from  the  outside  world  the 
families  are  as  strictly  secluded  as  the  inmates  of  a  prison 
or  convent.  Air,  light,  and  sunshine  they  obtain  from  above 
the  court,  and  pass  their  days  among  themselves  in  neglige 
and  careless  freedom.  Above  the  apartments  just  mentioned 
is  the  roof-top,  —  the  azotea,  —  terraced,  like  the  roof-tops 
of  the  Orient.  Here  the  family  gather  at  evening  time  to 
enjoy  the  cool  breezes,  the  quiet,  and  the  gleaming  stars  of 
night. 

Seated  upon  the  azotea,  with  cool  breezes  playing  about  you, 
the  hum  of  busy  life  in  the  plaza  and  streets  coming  up  from 
below,  and  with  soft  moonlight  flooding  the  sea  of  roofs  on 
every  side,  —  this  is  the  time  and  place  to  bring  up  again  the 
spectres  of  the  dead  and  departed  conqiiist adores. 

We  left  the  Spaniards  at  Tlascala  on  their  way  to  the  city  of 
their  aspirations ;  thence  they  marched  upon  Cholula,  whence, 
after  committing  a  massacre  of  its  inhabitants,  they  climbed  the 
mountains  that  alone  separated  them  from  the  valley  of  Mexico, 
over  a  trail  that  yet  exists,  between  the  volcanoes  of  Popocatapetl 


^pJ^^V?^^^^^^-^  -«^'/^r^j 


CITY    OF   MEXICO.  22/ 

and  Iztaccihuatl,  and  from  the  western  slope  of  these  twin  moun- 
tains first  beheld  the  stronghold  of  Montezuma.  The  sequel  is 
of  course  well  known  to  all,  —  that  they  descended  to  the  plains 
below  and  marched  towards  the  great  lake  surrounding  the 
capital,  where  they  were  received  with  magnificence  by  Monte- 
zuma and  his  nobles;  entered  the  city,  where  they  remained 
several  months ;  treacherously  made  captive  the  great  and  gen- 
erous monarch,  who  was  subsequently  slain  in  an  insurrection 
of  his  people ;  and  were  at  length  driven  with  great  slaughter 
from  the  valley.  Their  entry  was  on  the  8th  of  November, 
1 5 19;  their  expulsion,  in  July  of  the  next  year.  Near  the 
pyramids  of  Otumba,  or  San  Juan,  they  were  overtaken  by 
the  enraged  Indians,  escaping  by  a  miracle  to  Tlascala,  whence, 
after  months  of  recuperating,  and  with  reinforcements,  they 
returned  to  the  investment  of  the  city  of  Mexico,  in  December, 
1520,  finally  capturing  it  in  August,   1521. 

The  ancient  capital  disappeared,  for  the  Spaniards  only  took 
it  house  by  house,  and  stone  by  stone,  tearing  down  temples 
and  palaces  and  filling  up  the  canals  with  the  debris ;  but  many 
places  remain  that  were  identified  with  the  conquest  and  with 
the  Aztecs,  and  which  are  fully  authenticated.  In  entering  the 
city  for  the  purpose  of  observation  we  naturally  turn  our  foot- 
steps toward  the  plaza  mayor,  the  great  central  square,  for  it 
was  also  the  centre  of  the  former  city,  and  indicates  the  site  of 
the  Aztec  teocalli,  or  temple  of  sacrifice.  Recent  excavations 
made  in  the  summer  of  1881  have  brought  to  light  the  very 
corner  stones  of  this  sacred  edifice,  and  have  thus  vindicated 
the  statements  of  early  historians. 

According  to  the  best  authorities,  this  building  was  a  py- 
ramidal structure,  truncate,  built  in  successive  stories,  each  of 
which  was  reached  by  a  flight  of  steps  only  after  passing 
around  the  entire  pyramid.  One  hundred  and  fourteen  steps 
led  to  the  square  platform  at  the  summit,  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  above  the  ground.  This  was  the  temple  of  their 
war-god,  Mexitili,  or  Huitzilopochtli,  and  their  place  of  sacri- 
fice. This  heathen  temple  was  razed,  and  on  its  site,  in  1530, 
was  built  a  church,  which  was  demolished  in  1573  and  the  pres- 


228  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

ent  cathedral  commenced,  which  was  finished  in  1667,  at  a  total 
expense  little  short  of  $2,000,000.  It  occupies  the  eastern  side 
of  the  great  plaza,  is  of  the  shape  of  a  cross,  426  feet  long, 
200  wide,  and  175  feet  high,  with  massive  towers  reaching  an 
altitude  of  200  feet.  Joined  to  it  is  a  sister  church,  the  Sagrario, 
or  church  of  the  parish,  the  florid  and  almost  grotesque  fagade 
of  which  forms  a  decided  contrast  with  the  grand  and  imposing 
front  of  the  cathedral.  Until  very  recently,  these  were  enclosed 
by  a  line  of  chains  hung  between  about  one  hundred  stone 
posts,  the  two  corner  pillars  opposite  the  plaza  supporting  a 
cross  with  a  ghastly  emblem  of  death  at  its  base, — a  skull 
skilfully  carved  from  marble,  and  an  entwined  serpent.  This 
enclosure,  which  was  a  favorite  resort  of  the  bird-sellers,  Indians 
with  light  wares  for  sale,  leperos,  and  beggars,  has  been  con- 
verted into  an  attractive  garden.  Many  a  time  have  I  seen 
groups  of  dirty  men  and  women  of  the  proletarians  crouched 
at  the  bases  of  these  pillars,  —  not  in  worship  or  adoration,  but 
engaged  in  threading  with  their  bony  fingers  one  another's  hair, 
in  eager  search  for  that  hemipterous  insect  so  rarely  seen 
except  on  the  filthiest  of  the  human  species. 

The  interior  of  the  grand  cathedral  is,  even  at  the  present 
day,  after  having  been  successively  plundered,  most  magnifi- 
cent. It  contains  five  naves,  six  altars,  and  fourteen  chapels, 
which  contain  the  bones  of  some  of  the  viceroys  and  departed 
great  men  of  Mexico.  The  Glory  of  the  Cupola,  Virgin,  and 
revered  saints,  were  painted  by  celebrated  artists.  A  balustrade 
surrounds  the  choir,  of  a  metal  so  rich  that  an  offer  to  replace 
it  with  one  of  equal  weight  in  solid  silver  was  refused.  This 
weighs  twenty-six  tons,  and  came  from  China  in  the  old  days 
of  Spanish  dominion,  when  the  richly  freighted  galleons  of 
Spain  sent  their  cargoes  overland  from  Acapulco  to  Vera  Cruz, 
on  the  way  to  the  mother  country.  The  high  altar  was  formerly 
the  richest  in  the  world,  and  yet  retains  much  of  its  original 
glory.  It  contained  candlesticks  of  gold,  so  heavy  that  a  single 
one  was  more  than  a  man  could  lift,  chalices,  cruets,  and 
pixes  of  gold  encrusted  with  precious  stones,  censers,  crosses, 
and  statues  of  the  same  precious  metal,  studded  with  emeralds. 


CITY   OF   MEXICO.  23 1 

amethysts,  rubies,  and  sapphires.  The  statue  of  the  Assumption 
(now  missing)  was  of  gold,  ornamented  with  diamonds,  and  is 
said  to  have  cost  $1,090,000.  There  was  a  golden  lamp,  valued 
at  $70,000,  which  it  cost  at  one  time  $1,000  to  clean,  but 
according  to  a  French  writer,  —  and  the  joke  is  his,  —  the  liberal 
troops  cleaned  it  out  for  nothing,  and  it  has  not  been  seen 
since.  These  treasures  are  merely  enumerated  as  having  once 
been  here,  for  it  is  difficult  to  believe  that  they  still  occupy  a 
place  in  the  dazzling  mass  of  gilding  and  ornament  surround- 
ing altar  and  choir,  in  a  country  that  has  passed  through  such 
trial  and  revolution  as  has  Mexico.  But  these  and  much  more 
existed,  and  were  accumulated  when  bishop,  priest,  and  monk 
ruled  the  country  with  a  rod  of  iron,  and  possessed  two  thirds 
the  entire  wealth  of  the  nation. 

Enter  at  any  time,  and  you  may  see  some  kneeling  figure,  it 
may  be  of  a  rich  and  beautiful  Senora,  with  the  purest  of  Cas- 
tilian  blood  in  her  veins,  or  a  miserable  Indian  just  in  from 
the  country,  with  a  load  of  vegetables,  or  even  a  coop  of 
struggling  chickens,  still  at  his  back.  During  the  crowded 
attendance  on  feast-days  and  at  other  times,  rich  and  poor, 
cleanly  and  filthy  ones,  mingle  indiscriminately,  and  then  the 
leperos,  while  pretending  to  great  devotion,  find  it  easy  to 
relieve  the  wealthier  members  of  society  of  their  purses  and 
handkerchiefs. 

One  day,  when  first  in  Mexico,  Cortes  ascended  to  the  top  of 
the  teocalli,^  and  Montezuma,  taking  him  by  the  hand,  pointed 
out  to  him  the  various  parts  of  the  city.  In  like  manner,  let  us 
ascend  the  cathedral  tower  and  look  over  the  selfsame  valley, 
from  nearly  the  same  height  and  point  of  view  occupied  by  the 
Spanish  conqueror  and  the  Aztec  emperor.  "  This  is  a  royal 
place,"  says  Bishop  Haven,  "  to  see  this  royal  city.  Never  had 
town  such  grand  environment.  Athens  has  mountains  and  sea, 
but  scanty  plains ;    Rome,  plains,  but  no  water,  and  low-browed 

hills ;  Jerusalem,  mountains,  but  no  plains  nor  sea The 

city  lies  all  about  us,  its  limits  being  equidistant  in  every  direc- 

1  "  The  teocalli  was  in  ruins  a  few  years  after  the  siege  of  Tenochtitlan,  which, 
like  that  of  Troy,  ended  in  the  almost  total  destruction  of  the  city." — Humboldt. 


232  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

tion.  Its  flat  roofs  extend  for  a  mile,  domed  with  spacious 
churches." 

Says  a  celebrated  French  traveller:  "Mexico  is  a  grand  city, 
in  the  Spanish  st}dc,  with  an  air  more  inspiring,  more  majestic, 
more  metropolitan,  than  any  city  of  Spain  except  Madrid, 
crowned  by  numerous  towers,  and  surrounded  by  a  vast  plain 
bounded  by  mountains.  Mexico  reminds  one  somewhat  of 
Rome.  Its  long  streets,  broad,  straight,  and  regular,  give  it 
an  appearance  like  Berlin.  It  has  some  resemblance  to  Naples 
and  Turin,  yet  with  a  character  of  its  own.  It  makes  one  think 
of  various  cities  of  Europe,  while  it  differs  from  all  of  them. 
It  recalls  all,  repeats  none." 

"The  second  day,"  says  Mr.  Ward,  England's  former  Min- 
ister to  Mexico,  "  made  converts  of  us  all ;  in  the  course  of  it  we 
visited  most  of  the  central  parts  of  the  town,  and,  after  seeing 
the  great  plaza,  the  cathedral,  the  palace,  and  the  noble  streets 
which  communicate  with  them,  we  were  forced  to  confess, 
not  only  that  Humboldt's  praises  did  not  exceed  the  truth, 
but  that  amongst  the  various  capitals  of  Europe  there  were 
few  that  could  support  with  any  advantage  a  comparison  with 
Mexico." 

Elevated  at  this  height  above  the  plaza,  of  nearly  one  hun- 
dred and  eighty  feet,  the  din  of  the  city  reaches  our  ears,  —  the 
hum  of  myriad  voices,  the  patter  of  thousands  of  feet,  and  the 
rattle  of  coach-wheels  over  the  pavements.  Yet  it  is  a  rather 
silent  crowd  that  fills  the  square,  composed  in  great  part  of  idle 
vagabonds  who  have  no  employment,  and  hence  are  in  no  hurry, 
and  create  no  bustle.  Directly  beneath  us  is  the  great  square, 
with  the  smaller  one,  the  zocalo,  or  pleasure  garden,  in  its  centre. 
This  latter  is  a  green  spot  in  this  desert  of  stone,  its  tall  trees 
shading  marble  walks,  statues,  fountains,  and  flowers,  beauti- 
fully disposed  about  a  central  kiosk  used  as  a  music  stand. 
The  flower  market,  occupying  a  small  iron  building  of  graceful 
architecture,  is  held  here,  and  a  small  octangular  structure  is 
the  despatching  office  of  the  street  railways,  which,  radiating  in 
every  direction,  reach  every  available  and  desirable  suburb.  All 
the  streets  of  the  city  seem  to  meet  in,  and  take  their  departure 


INTERIOR   OF   CATHEDRAL. 


CITY   OF   MEXICO.  235 

from,  the  plaza  mayor, — some  broad  and  some  narrow,  but  all 
paved  and  straight,  and  lined  with  high  buildings  of  stone.  The 
structures  themselves  are  built  mainly  of  tetzoiitli^  a  porous 
amygdaloid  of  dark  color  obtained  from  ancient  quarries  near 
the  city,  which,  as  it  unites  firmly  with  mortar,  is  more  in 
request  than  any  other  for  the  buildings  of  the  capital. 

The  cathedral  occupying  the  northern  side  of  the  square,  we 
have  on  our  left,  forming  the  entire  eastern  boundary  of  the 
plaza,  the  great  national  palace,  over  twenty-eight  hundred  feet 
long,  and  containing  an  infinite  number  of  rooms.  In  a  portion 
of  this  building — ^  which  is  said  to  occupy  the  site  of  the  ancient 
palace  of  Montezuma,  or  rather  of  Axayacatl,  his  royal  sire, 
one  room  of  which  held  three  thousand  persons  —  is  situated 
the  meteorological  observatory,  conducted  by  eminent  scientific 
men.  It  is  likely  to  be  of  great  use  to  the  scientific  world ;  for, 
remember,  we  are  here  elevated  some  seven  thousand  feet  nearer 
the  heavens  than  in  Greenwich  or  Washington ;  the  air  is  con- 
sequently clearer,  the  stars  brighter,  and  the  moon  and  planets 
larger,  than  there.  Add  to  this  the  fact  —  which  must  have  been 
already  observed  —  that  there  are  no  chimneys  here,  no  smoke, 
and  little  dust,  and  we  can  imagine  the  perfect  transparency  of 
the  pure  ether  through  which  these  meteorologists  and  their 
brothers,  the  astronomers  of  the  School  of  Mines  and  Chapul- 
tepec,  gaze  upon  the  other  worlds  outside  of  ours.  Several 
companies  of  soldiers  are  constantly  quartered  here,  who  are 
paraded  in  front  of  the  palace  every  morning  as  the  clock  strikes 
eight.  Though  sentinels  stand  guard  at  every  portal,  free  access 
may  be  had  to  all  portions  of  the  great  building  upon  applica- 
tion, and  the  admirer  of  relics  of  defunct  imperialism  may,  for  a 
real,  look  upon  the  state  coach  of  Maximilian,  yet  preserved  as 
a  useless  curiosity.  The  palace  is  the  official  residence  of  the 
President  of  the  nation,  and  contains  the  offices  of  himself  and 
his  ministers  and  military  commanders,  and  also  the  treasure  of 
the  nation  and  its  archives. 

In  the  botanical  garden  attached  to  the  palace  is  a  curious 
plant,  called  el  arbol  de  las  manitos,  the  tree  of  the  little  hands. 
It  is  the  Cheirostemon  platanifolimn  of  the  botanists,  and  the 


236  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

Tzapalilqui-Xochitl  of  the  ancient  Aztecs,  one  of  whose  kings 
went  to  wai  with  another  petty  monarch  to  obtain  possession  of 
it.  It  bears  a  beautiful  red  flower,  the  centre  of  which  is  in  the 
form  of  a  hand,  with  the  fingers  a  httle  bent  inward.  Only 
three  trees  of  the  kind  are  said  to  exist  in  all  Mexico,  two  in 
the  botanical  garden,  and  one  (the  mother  plant)  in  the  moun- 
tains of  Toluca. 

Directly  opposite  the  cathedral,  at  the  southern  side  of  the 
plaza,  is  the  municipal  palace,  supported,  like  the  buildings 
bounding  the  greater  portion  of  the  western,  upon  the  pictu- 
resque/^irto/^j,  or  arcades, —  a  feature  in  the  architecture  of  the 
pubHc  buildings  of  this  country,  as  we  have  seen  in  Yucatan. 
Here  the  tide  of  human  life  flows  at  the  full ;  every  available 
corner  is  occupied  by  some  huckster,  beggar,  or  pedler,  and 
all  the  native  products  of  the  land  are  displayed  for  sale  out- 
side and  in  the  adjacent  shops.  Everything  manufactured  in 
Mexico  is  before  us  here,  from  a  sombrero,  with  a  brim  a  yard 
wide,  loaded  with  silver,  and  costing  fifty  dollars,  to  a  sarape,  or 
Mexican  blanket,  of  gay  colors,  and  equally  expensive. 

Lifting  our  eyes  from  the  scene  of  animation  spread  below, 
and  letting  them  wander  over  the  stone  walls  that  surround  us 
on  every  side,  like  a  coral  plain  rent  into  chasms,  we  note  an- 
other verdant  square  to  the  westward.  This  is  the  alavieda^ 
the  forest  garden  of  Mexico,  which  is  older  than  the  zocalo,  and 
has  larger  trees,  finer  flowers,  grander  fountains,  and  more  elab- 
orate walks  and  garden  plots.  Here  the  good  citizen  of  Mexico 
resorts  at  least  once  a  day  for  a  walk,  the  nurse  with  her  charge, 
and  the  omnipresent  policeman,  the  student  with  his  book,  and 
the  lawyer  with  his  client.  This  most  charming  spot,  where 
once  apostates  were  punished  with  fire,  —  for  heretics  were 
burned  here  by  the  Inquisition,  —  is  but  the  beginning  of  the 
city  westward  and  southwestward,  towards  the  hills  that  approach 
the  valley  from  that  direction. 

Letting  our  gaze  wander  on,  we  look  beyond  the  brown  plains 
and  green  fields,  intersected  by  lines  of  trees,  roads,  and  aque- 
ducts, and  dotted  with  the  white  walls  of  scattered  villages,  — 
beyond  all  these,  to  the  hills  that  enclose  us  on  every  side.     It 


CITY    Of-    MEXICO.  237 

is  a  view  too  grand  for  simple  description,  too  vast,  even,  for  an 
artist  to  grasp  and  depict  on  a  single  canvas ;  and  I  hesitate  to 
attempt  more  than  separate  portions  of  it  at  a  time. 

We  occup)'  the  central  portion  of  a  valley  in  the  Cordilleras 
of  Anahuac,  fifty-five  miles  in  length  by  thirty  in  breadth,  and 
enclosed  by  a  wall  of  mountains  two  hundred  miles  in  circum- 
ference. This  rugged  barrier  circumscribes  our  view  in  every 
direction ;  amethystine  hills  of  lovely  hue,  without  a  break  or 
change  in  color  except  far  to  the  southeast,  where  the  two 
great  volcanoes  raise  their  snow-covered  peaks  to  heaven.  Be- 
tween us  and  them  is  spread  every  variety  of  surface  that 
ever  rejoiced  the  eye  of  an  admirer  of  nature,  in  the  hills 
crested  with  groves,  the  plains  and  valleys  gemmed  with  lucent 
lakes.  The  great  Lake  Tezcoco,  which  formerly  surrounded 
the  city,  lies  now  at  a  distance  of  three  miles  from  it,  sleep- 
ing in  the  sunshine,  with  the  haze  of  distance  enwrapping  its 
farther  shore.  This  is  the  salt-water  lake ;  farther  south  are 
the  fresh-water  bodies  of  Xochimilco  and  Chalco.  The  hills 
nearest  us  are  those  at  the  base  of  which  the  church  and 
chapel  of  Guadalupe  are  built  on  the  north,  and  of  Chapul- 
tepec,  lying  to  the  west.  Both  points  are  historic,  the  one  in 
the  comparatively  modern  days  of  the  conquest,  the  other  in  its 
connection  with  ancient  peoples  and  scenes  of  recent  days.^ 

In  looking  over  this  vast  valley,  and  the  wide  area  of  denuded 
meadows  that  surrounds  the  city,  we  cannot  avoid  the  convic- 
tion that  the  early  chronicles  were  truthful  in  their  descriptions 
of  Mexico  as  having  been  built  upon  an  island.  Various 
doubters  have  affected  to  disbelieve  this  fact,  even  though 
every  proof  is  present  that  the  surroundings  could  afford,  aside 
from  the  statements  of  many  writers.  The  Aztec  chronicles 
state  that  they  made  their  permanent  stay  on  an  island,  or 
group  of  islands,  northeast  of  Chapultepec,  and  the  writings 
of  the  Spaniards  who  were  eyewitnesses  to  the  events  attend- 
ing the  destruction  of  the  old  city  and  the  founding  of  the 
new  positively  assert  that  both  were  upon  an  island  intersected 

^  See  Frontispiece,  for  an  accurate  engraving  of  Anahuac,  or  the  historic  Valley 
of  Mexico. 


238  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

by  canals.^  The  circumstances  attending  the  entry  of  the 
Spaniards  are  narrated  at  length  by  Bernal  Diaz.  After  de- 
scending the  mountains  and  passing  through  Amecamcca  and 
Chalco,  they  skirted  Lake  Tezcoco  '^  by  the  base  of  the  line  of 
hills  southeast  of  the  city,  and  approached  from  the  direction 
of  Lake  Chalco.  After  having  been  met  by  Montezuma  in 
great  state,  with  his  nobles,  they  were  conducted  to  the  city. 
"  We  then  set  forward,"  says  the  old  soldier,  "  on  the  road  to 
Mexico,  which  was  crowded  with  multitudes  of  the  natives,  and 
arrived  at  the  causeway  of  Iztapalapa,  which  leads  to  the  capi- 
tal. When  we  beheld  the  number  of  populous  towns  on  the 
water  and  firm  ground,  and  that  broad  causeway  running 
straight  and  level  to  the  city,  we  could  compare  it  to  nothing 
but  the  enchanted  scenes  we  had  read  of  in  '  Amadis  of  Gaul,' 
from  the  great  tower  and  temples,  and  other  edifices  of  lime  and 
stone  which  seem  to  rise  out  of  the  water." 

Humboldt  says  that  the  ancient  city  communicated  with  the 
continent  by  the  three  great  dikes  of  Tepejacac  (Guadalupe). 
Tlacopan  (Tacuba),  and  Iztapalapa.  Cortes  mentions  four 
dikes,  because  he  reckoned,  without  doubt,  the  aqueduct  (and 
causeway)  which  led  to  Chapultepec.  To  simplify  the  posi- 
tion, imagine  a  causeway  reaching  the  city  from  the  south- 
east, another  leading  out  of  it  to  the  north,  and  another  west, 
besides  the  aqueduct  to  Chapultepec  (a  little  south  of  west), 
which  may  have  been  built  upon  another  causeway. 

Upon  the  ruins  of  the  Aztec  capital,  therefore,  after  the  siege 
had  ended,  the  Spaniards  laid  the  foundations  of  the  modern  city, 
still  on  an  island,  connected  with  the  main  only  by  the  dikes, 
but  with  many  of  its  canals  choked  with  the  material  of  ruined 
buildings.  This  "  Venice  of  the  Western  world,"  as  many 
authors  have  styled  this  centre  of  civilization  in  Lake  Tezcoco, 
lost  thereby  its  water-ways,  which  served  in  place  of  streets,  and 
not  many  years  passed  before  it  was  found  to  be  in  danger  of 

^  The  curious  reader  will  find  many  particulars  of  historic  information,  such  as 
dates  of  arrival  of  the  tribes  which  successively  invaded  the  valley  of  Mexico,  etc., 
in  the  author's  "  Young  Folks'  History  of  Mexico,"  the  later  edition  of  which  is 
carefully  indexed. 

*  Written  Tezcoco,  or  Texcoco,  and  pronounced  Tesh-c6-co. 


EL   SAGRARIO. 


CITY    OF   MEXICO.  241 

inundation.  It  has  passed  through  several  floods,  the  severest 
of  which  was  that  of  1629,  which  great  inundation  lasted  till 
1634;  boats  passed  through  the  streets  as  of  old,  and,  though 
the  most  holy  image  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  was  brought 
into  the  city  for  the  purpose  of  drying  up  the  waters,  it  was  a  long 
while  before  they  subsided,  and  chiefly  through  the  influence 
of  earthquakes.^  At  the  corner  of  the  street  of  San  Francisco 
and  the  Callejon  del Espirihi  Santo ^  —  Alley  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  — 
there  is  the  golden  head  of  a  lion,  grim  and  dumb,  that  marks 
the  height,  about  six  feet,  reached  by  the  waters  in  1629. 


lAira        LAKE  i,wrr"l      ■  I  (,■.(= 

CHAICO    -.lICHIItiLO  V^:aa  CJIBtO/tL    .Vt.TOCi- 


LAKE  TEXCOCtt 

RELATIVE   LEVELS    OF   LAKES    AND   CITY. 

There  was  a  physical  cause  for  these  periodical  floods  in  the 
comparative  levels  of  the  city  and  the  lakes  that  occupy  a 
goodly  portion  of  the  valley  of  Tenochtitlan,  or  Mexico.  In 
the  Plaza  de  Armas  you  may  find  to-day  a  monument  (that 
was  only  unveiled  in  the  summer  of  1881)  to  one  of  Mex- 
ico's great  hydrographers,  containing  on  its  four  sides  the 
heights  of  the  lakes  of  the  valley,  the  stage  of  the  water  in 
Lake  Tezcoco,  and  other  information  of  a  hydrographic  nature. 
There  are  six  of  these  lakes ;  —  Chalco  and  Xochimilco,  the 
southernmost,  whose  levels  are  ten  feet  above  that  of  Tezcoco, 
the  largest  and  nearest,  but  six  feet  below  the  pavement  of  the 
city  at  ordinary  stages  of  water;  San  Christobal,  a  small  lake 
north  of  Tezcoco,  and  Xaltocan  and  Zumpango,  in  the  northern 
end  of  the  valley,  at  an  elevation  of  twenty-five  feet  above  the 
city.  In  order  to  save  the  city,  it  was  considered  necessary  to 
divert  the  waters  of  Lake  Zumpango  —  which  flowed  into  Tez- 
coco, a  lake  without  an  outlet,  and  were  a  perpetual  menace  to 
the  capital  —  in  another  direction,  through  the  mountain  wall 

1  The  city  itself  has  been  seven  times  inundated,  in  1446,  1553,  1580,  1604,1607, 
1617,  1629;  and  five  times  partially  submerged,  in  1620,  1630,  1748,  1819,  and  1865. 

16 


242 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


that  enclosed  the  valley,  into  the  River  Montezuma,  which  emp- 
ties eventually  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  A  great  tunnel  was 
commenced,  in  1607,  with  1500  Indians,  and  completed  within  a 
year,  its  length  being  more  than  6,600  metres  (21,650  feet).  The 
falling  in  of  the  tunnel  was  the  cause  of  the  great  inundations 
that  submerged  the  city,  and  attempts  were  made  to  convert 
it  into  a  trench;  but  this  latter  undertaking  was  not  finished 
until  1789,  nearly  two  centuries  after  its  commencement. 


TAJO    DE   NOCHISTONGO. 

The  great  trench  is  from  30  to  160  feet  in  depth,  and  in  some 
places  300  feet  broad,  and  is  known  as  the  Dcsagiie  de  Huehue- 
toca,  or  the  Tajo  (Cut)  de  Nochistongo.  Instead  of  carrying 
away  the  waters  of  the  lower  lakes,  the  great  canal  only  drained 
Zumpango  and  a  river  which  was  diverted  into  it,  leaving  Tez- 
coco  and  Chalco  unaffected  directly  by  the  drainage.  It, 
however,  relieved  the  city  from  apprehension  regarding  the 
danger  that  would  have  resulted  from  a  sudden  overflow  of  the 
upper  lake  into  Tezcoco ;    and  by  taking  away  the  main  tribu- 


CITY   OF   MEXICO.  243 

tary  of  the  latter,  in  conjunction  with  its  great  evaporation,  its 
area  has  been  greatly  diminished,  so  that,  instead  of  surround- 
ing the  city  as  in  former  days,  its  nearest  shore  is  three  miles 
from  it,  measuring  from  the  plaza. 

For  three  hundred  years  the  sewers  of  the  city  have  at- 
tempted to  discharge  into  the  lake ;  and  though  the  latter  has 
gone  on  evaporating  all  this  while,  yet  the  flow  of  filth  has 
never  ceased,  and  the  level  of  the  lake  still  remains  but  six  feet 
below  that  of  the  city.  The  sewers  are  constantly  charged; 
beneath  the  pavement  of  the  city  of  Mexico  is  the  accumulated 
filth  of  near  five  hundred  years  !  As  a  consequence,  despite  the 
rarity  of  the  atmosphere  at  this  high  altitude,  malaria  spreads 
itself  upon  the  air,  and  fevers  of  a  mild  type  prevail  here. 

Numberless  plans  have  been  submitted  to  the  government 
for  draining  the  lake  and  relieving  the  city  of  its  surcharge 
of  corruption ;  some  have  been  accepted,  but  none  have  been 
attempted,  though  a  fund  for  the  purpose  was  started  years 
and  years  ago.  A  wealthy  American  company  was  the  latest 
to  bid  for  this  contract,  and  even  went  so  far  as  to  obtain  a 
liberal  concession  from  Congress  and  the  Executive.  Through 
the  city  of  Mexico,  by  this  plan,  sewers  are  to  be  constructed 
flushed  by  the  waters  from  the  lakes,  which  are  carried  to  a 
common  conduit,  where  the  sewage  is  purified  by  deposition, 
the  solid  matter  to  be  used  for  fertilization  and  the  water  carried 
away  in  the  canal.  The  whole  length  of  the  canal  would  be 
about  fifty  miles,  the  expense  about  $7,000,000. 

Having  now  a  period  of  peace  and  prosperity,  with  a  friendly 
nation  kindly  building  all  her  railroads  necessary  to  develop 
internal  commerce,  Mexico  will  undoubtedly  turn  her  attention 
to  the  purification  of  her  capital,  that  it  may  become  in  future 
years  the  Mecca  of  pilgrims  in  search  of  health,  as  well  as  of 
those  looking  for  magnificent  scenery. 


XIII. 

A   RAMBLE   AROUND   THE   CITY. 

'TPHIS  city  of  nearly  three  hundred  thousand  inhabitants  lies 
-*•  in  latitude  19°  26'  north  of  the  equator,  and  at  an  elevation 
above  the  sea  of  seven  thousand  four  hundred  feet.  Its  situa- 
tion, within  four  degrees  of  the  tropic  of  Cancer,  would  give  it, 
so  far  as  geographical  position  is  concerned,  a  climate  like  that 
of  Havana,  without  its  sea  breezes ;  but  the  isothermal  line  is 
here  deflected  northward  by  the  greater  altitude.  The  tempera- 
ture ranges  between  65  and  85  degrees,  varying  little  with  the 
seasons ;  the  mornings  and  nights  are  cool,  while  at  midday  it 
is  always  hot,  and  the  difference  between  sunshine  and  shade  is 
very  great.  The  climate  is  strictly  temperate,  and  nowhere  in 
the  world  do  the  periodical  alternations  of  rain  and  drought 
occur  with  greater  regularity. 

The  so-called  rainy  season  extends  from  June  to  November, 
and  is  the  most  delightful  period  of  the  year,  especially  at  its 
commencement  and  towards  its  termination.  The  latter  month, 
November,  is  cool  and  pleasant,  and  indicates  that  the  season 
has  arrived  when  visitors  from  other  countries  can  enter  Mexico 
without  fear  of  encountering  deadly  disease,  and  with  the  pros- 
pect before  them  of  a  full  winter  of  dry  weather.  It  is  in  May 
or  June  that  "  muttered  thunders  announce  the  coming  of  the 
rains,  and  all  nature  looks  expectantly  for  the  approaching 
showers  " ;  the  dry,  brown  hills  take  on  a  carpet  of  green  in  a 
single  night;  the  beds  of  water-courses,  for  months  without  a 
drop  of  water  in  them,  are  in  a  few  days  the  channels  of  furi- 
ous streams.  The  animals  of  the  hills  and  plains  rejoice  at 
the  recurrence  of  the  period  of  rain,  for  their  pastures  then 
afford  them  an  abundance  of  succulent  herbage.     The  eye  of 


A    RAMBLE   AROUND   THE   CITY. 


247 


man  is  delighted  with  verdure  and  the  bloom  of  flowers,  which 
clothe  the  valleys  and  brighten  the  gardens.  At  the  close  of 
this  season  the  migratory  birds  arrive  from  the  north;  great 
flocks  of  ducks  and  plover,  which  betake  themselves  to  the  lakes 
and  marshes,  where  they  afford  an  abundance  of  food  for  the 
Indians  and  much  sport  to  the  denizens  of  the  city. 

Even  long  journeys  are  pleasantest  in  this  season,  especially 
in  the  northern  portion  of  the  republic,  except  for  the  occa- 
sional disadvantages  of  swollen  streams  and  flooded  roads.  By 
timing  the  hours  of  travel  so  that  a  start  is  secured  before  day- 
light, and  halting  by  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  the  rains  are 
avoided,  as  they  invariably  fall  between  noon  and  sunset,  except 
at  the  beginning  of  the  season.  In  a  journey  of  above  a  thou- 
sand miles  on  horseback,  through  Southern  Mexico,  in  the 
height  of  the  rainy  season,  myself  and  companions  got  wet 
scarcely  a  dozen  times,  though  in  the  saddle  every  day.  In 
the  city  of  Mexico,  the  encircling  mountains,  by  their  position 
and  great  height,  precipitate  many  showers  that  do  not  fall  in 
places  outside  the  valley,  as  in  Puebla,  for  instance,  which  has  a 
much  smaller  rainfall. 

From  the  contiguity  of  the  mountains  to  the  valley,  also, 
the  rains  here  assume  a  violence  that  at  times  is  tremendous, 
filling  the  streets  of  the  city,  and  flooding  the  parks  and  plazas. 
In  a  single  shower,  lasting  but  an  hour  or  so,  I  once  saw  the 
main  street  of  Mexico  filled  knee-deep,  and  every  one  caught 
out  in  it  had  to  hire  a  coach  with  which  to  reach  his  home. 
This  was  owing  not  only  to  sudden  precipitation,  but  to  the 
defective  drainage  of  the  city,  which  would  not  allow  of  the 
carrying  away  of  the  water  in  sufficient  volume.  Even  the  con- 
tents of  the  sewers  were  floated  into  the  streets,  and  washed  into 
the  doorways  of  many  stores  and  dwellings.  On  the  occur- 
rence of  such  sudden  rainfalls,  the  porters  of  the  city  transform 
themselves  into  beasts  of  burden,  and  carry  ladies  and  gentle- 
men from  one  crossing  to  another,  for  a  few  centavos,  on  their 
backs.  They  are  rascals,  many  of  them,  who  have  been  known 
to  suspend  an  unlucky  passenger  above  the  water  till  he  agreed 
to  give  a  generous  douceur  for  the  privilege  of  landing,  or  keep 


248  TRAVELS   TN   MEXICO. 

him  in  this  defenceless  position  till  a  companion  has  found  and 
got  away  with  his  purse  or  watch. 

From  its  great  elevation,  combined  with  its  geographical  posi- 
tion, Mexico  (the  city)  has  a  most  perfect  climate.  Except  for 
the  local  influences,  previously  mentioned,  the  atmosphere  is 
dry  and  pure.  Many  people  affect  to  suffer  from  the  rarefaction 
of  the  air ;  but  it  is  believed  that,  if  they  had  been  transported 
here  without  knowing  of  the  change  of  altitude,  they  would 
breathe  as  easily  as  at  the  coast.  The  air  is  so  transparent  that 
objects  at  a  distance  seem  close  at  hand  ;  many  writers  have 
noticed  the  deceptive  appearance  of  the  hills,  which  can  be  seen 
at  the  termination  of  every  street  as  though  within  an  hour's 
walk,  when  in  reality  twenty  miles  away ;  and  the  two  great 
volcanoes,  though  seemingly  within  cannon-shot,  are  all  of  fifty 
miles  distant. 

The  brisk  electric  condition  of  the  air  may  account  for  the 
animation  of  the  people,  both  native  and  foreign  residents,  who 
are  always  stirring,  except  at  noon,  and  always  cheerful.  Des- 
pite the  exhilarating  atmosphere,  to  breathe  which  is  a  perfect 
delight,  there  is  a  universal  cessation  of  active  business  at  noon, 
(though  morning  is  early  devoted  to  work,  and  evening  to  rec- 
reation,) as  the  siesta  imperatively  asserts  its  claims,  and  every- 
body retires  for  an  hour  or  two  to  couch  or  hammock.  The 
longest  day  of  the  year  being  but  thirteen  hours,  and  the  short- 
est eleven,  this  almost  equal  division  of  time  between  day  and 
night  greatly  facilitates  plans  for  business  and  amusement. 
Everything  goes  on  with  clock-work  regularity,  and  the  inhab- 
itants of  the  great  city  rise,  eat,  work,  snooze,  dance,  and  retire 
at  stated  hours.  Honest  men  profit  by  this  regularity  to  de- 
spatch their  labors  with  their  fellow-men  when  they  are  most 
accessible,  and  after  dark  those  who  are  not  honest  know  where 
and  when  to  find  victims  to  fleece  or  murder,  without  losing 
sleep,  or  shivering  all  night  in  the  cold. 

With  this  brief  digression,  as  explanatory  of  the  sanitary  con- 
dition of  the  city,  let  us  continue  our  sight-seeing.  Having 
started  with  the  plaza  mayor,  it  would  perhaps  be  well  to  work 
outwards  from  it,  and  take  the  most  distant  places  last.     Diago- 


A    RAMBLE   AROUND   THE  CITY.  25  1 

nally  opposite  the  zocalo  in  the  centre  of  the  Plaza,  and  facing 
the  western  wall  of  the  cathedral,  is  the  most  beneficent  institu- 
tion in  Mexico,  —  in  the  world,  —  the  Monte  de  Piedad.  It  is  a 
pawn-shop  on  a  gigantic  scale,  erected  for  the  benefit  of  poor 
people  and  worthy  members  of  the  shabby-genteel  class,  whose 
ancestors  were  once  wealthy,  and  left  them  money  which  they 
have  squandered  and  property  they  fain  would  realize  upon.  It 
was  founded  by  the  famous  Count  of  Regla,  who  gave  three 
hundred  thousand  dollars  for  the  purpose,  in  order  that  the 
poor  and  needy  might  obtain  advances  upon  personal  property 
at  a  low  rate  of  interest.  This  is  deposited  as  security,  the  sum 
advanced  upon  it  being  fixed  by  two  valuators,  as  near  as  pos- 
sible to  about  three  fourths  its  real  value.  Should  the  interest 
cease  to  be  paid,  the  article  is  kept  seven  months  longer,  when  a 
price  is  fixed,  and  it  is  exposed  for  sale;  five  months  later,  if  not 
sold,  it  is  offered  at  public  auction,  the  sum  it  brings  in  excess 
of  the  advance  upon  it  and  the  added  interest  being  placed  to 
the  credit  of  its  owner,  and  subject  to  his  order,  or  that  of  his 
heirs,  for  one  hundred  years,  after  which  it  reverts  to  the  bank. 

The  original  capital  of  this  charitable  institution  has  more 
than  doubled,  and  the  amount  of  good  that  it  has  done  in  the 
century  and  more  of  its  existence  is  incalculable.  If  Mexico 
had  no  other  great  charity  than  this,  the  fact  of  its  existence, 
and  that  it  has  been  allowed  to  carry  on  uninterrupted  business 
through  civil  wars  and  changes  of  government,  revolutions  and 
counter  revolutions,  speaks  volumes  in  favor  of  Mexican  fore- 
sight and  forbearance.  The  family  gods  of  the  country  —  rich 
garments,  saddles,  swords,  gold  ornaments,  diamonds,  pearls, 
and  rubies  —  are  collected  here.  Sometimes  great  bargains  are 
secured  at  the  sales  and  by  private  purchase,  but  not  often,  as 
the  valuators  are  shrewd  and  careful  men,  who,  it  is  said,  have 
to  make  good  any  loss  to  the  bank  from  undervaluation.  But 
there  are  often  deposited  here  gems  that  have  an  historic,  added 
to  their  intrinsic  value,  —  some  say,  many  jewels  that  have 
flashed  from  the  robes  of  royalty.  The  great  building  occupies 
the  site  of  the  palace  of  Cortes,  built  for  him  soon  after  the 
conquest;   and  one  cannot  go  amiss  in  paying  it  a  visit. 


252  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

Notwithstanding  the  presence  here  of  an  estabhshment  that 
will  advance  upon  nearly  everything  a  fair  percentage  of  its 
value,  the  smaller  dens  of  "  My  Uncle  "  flourish  in  abundance. 
They  may  be  found  on  every  street,  and  on  some  streets  in 
every  block,  displaying  a  more  heterogeneous  assortment  of 
stuff  than  the  mind  of  man  can  conceive  of.  They  will  take 
anything  offered  them,  and  the  majority  are  in  league  with 
thieves  and  pickpockets,  who  deposit  their  "  takes  "  with  them 
until  pursuit  is  over,  and  they  can  be  profitably  disposed  of. 
The  police  are  cognizant  of  this,  and  keep  up  a  rigid  inspection 
of  the  pawn-shops,  though  the  rascals  generally  evade  responsi- 
bility whenever  found  with  stolen  goods.  An  American  dealer 
in  hardware  told  me  that  he  lost  more  through  the  pawn-shops 
than  in  any  other  way ;  for  young  men,  of  apparent  respectability, 
have  repeatedly  bought  revolvers,  knives,  etc.  of  him  on  credit, 
and  had  them  in  the  pawn-shops  before  the  day  had  closed.  It 
is  owing  to  such  losses  as  these  that  dealers  in  American  goods, 
hardware  especially,  charge  for  them  four  times  the  price  asked 
in  New  York — in  order  that  the  Mexican  fop  may  keep  up 
appearances. 

Another  large  building,  built  with  laudable  intentions,  but 
which  has  failed  to  completely  realize  the  purposes  of  its  found- 
ers, is  the  Mineria,  or  School  of  Mines.  Mexico  has  better 
provided  for  her  sons  in  respect  to  education  than  foreigners 
generally  give  her  credit  for,  and  this  School  of  Mines  is  only 
one  of  many  institutions  throughout  the  republic  for  the  train- 
ing of  young  men  in  practical  engineering  and  mining.  Though 
often  praised  as  a  building  of  stately  architecture,  which  would 
be  considered  a  grand  structure  in  any  country,  the  Mineria 
fails  to  convey  that  impression  now ;  and  when  told  that  it 
cost  a  million  and  a  half  of  dollars,  and  that  it  is  the  work 
of  the  great  architect  and  sculptor,  Tolsa,  we  only  wonder  at 
the  genius  of  a  man  who  could  conceal  so  much  money  in  such 
an  unimposing  building.  Here  General  Grant  was  entertained 
during  his  first  visit  to  Mexico,  in  1880,  when  he  was  the  guest 
of  the  people. 

There  is  a  fine  collection  of  the  products  of  the  mines  here, 


A   RAMBLE   AROUND   THE   CITY.  253 

a  good  library,  astronomical  and  meteorological  apparatus, 
educated  professors,  trained  assistants,  and  some  of  the  most 
charming  young  men  as  students  that  it  has  been  my  fortune 
ever  to  meet.  One  of  them,  I  remember,  who  bore  the  name 
of  Cortes,  having  been  detailed  by  his  teacher  to  show  me  over 
the  building,  displayed  such  tact,  courtesy,  and  intelligence  that 
I  shall  never  forget  him.  This  treatment  of  a  stranger  is  uni- 
versal, and  one's  heart  warms  at  the  recollection  of  attentions 
received  from  these  gentlemen  of  the  educational  institution 
of  Mexico.  In  this  connection,  I  should  not  fail  to  mention 
the  officers  in  charge  of  the  meteorological  observatory  in  the 
Palace.  Educated  in  every  detail  of  their  profession,  maintain- 
ing a  leading  position  among  the  scientific  men  of  the  day,  they 
are  making  the  influence  of  their  observations  felt,  especially  in 
the  United  States.  But,  though  busied  with  their  duties  night 
and  day,  I  never  found  them  so  much  engaged  as  not  to  have 
time  to  answer  questions,  or  give  the  greatest  consideration  to 
my  requests. 

The  principal  street  of  Mexico,  on  or  near  which  are  its 
largest  hotels,  its  finest  stores  and  restaurants,  and  some  of 
its  richest  private  dwellings,  is  the  Calle  de  San  Francisco,  known 
also  as  Calle  de  los  Plateros,  or  Street  of  the  Silversmiths,  and 
by  various  other  names.  The  vexatious  plan,  formerly  pursued, 
of  giving  every  different  block  of  a  street  a  different  name,  is 
now  being  abandoned ;  a  more  improved  system  is  about  to  be 
adopted ;  and  in  a  few  years,  it  is  hoped,  one  may  be  able  to 
find  the  number  he  is  in  search  of  in  any  particular  street  with- 
out spending  hours  about  it,  as  now  is  necessary.  In  San  Fran- 
cisco Street  are  some  of  the  most  richly-stocked  stores  in 
Mexico,  where,  despite  the  almost  prohibitory  duties  on  foreign 
goods,  articles  from  every  land  on  earth  are  accumulated. 
Half-way  down  this  street  is  the  grand  Hotel  Iturbide  (pro- 
nounced Ee-tur-be-dee),  once  the  palace  of  the  first  emperor 
after  Mexico  became  independent. 

This  hotel  is  patronized  by  such  American  visitors  as  worship 
all  things  smacking  of  royalty ;  not  because  it  is  comfortable,  not 
because  it  is  cheerful  even,  —  for  it  is  scarcely  less  gloomy  than 


254  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

a  tomb,  —  but  because  it  is  "the  thing"  to  be  there.  Even  clerks 
on  scant  salary,  engineers  who  have  come  out  on  ventures, 
artists,  correspondents  of  newspapers,  railway  contractors,  —  all 
may  be  found  within  the  precincts  of  Iturbide,  that  they  may 
write  home  to  their  poor  relations,  "  I  have  dwelt  in  the  abode 
of  an  emperor."  Grand  and  gloomy,  with  a  facade  noteworthy 
for  nothing  except  its  long,  protruding  water-spouts,  with  an 
interior  mainly  attractive  for  its  wide  court,  with  dirty  mozos  or 
men-servants  as  chambermaids,  bare  floors,  and  gaunt  bed- 
steads, there  is  nothing  to  attract  one  to  Iturbide,  except,  per- 
haps, the  drinks  dispensed  at  its  bar,  which,  like  the  climate, 
are  delicious  and  vivifying.  In  describing  one  hotel,  we  de- 
scribe all,  for  they  are  all  built  and  managed  after  the  same 
plan.  The  cafes,  which  are  conducted  apart  even  if  in  the 
same  building,  are  excellent. 

Illustrating  the  departure  in  a  modified  way  from  the  archi- 
tecture of  older  Mexico,  such  houses  as  that  of  the  millionaire 
Escandon  is  a  fine  specimen,  though  even  this  structure  exem- 
plifies the  manner  in  which  the  Mexican  utilizes  his  dwelling- 
place,  as  the  lower  floors  are  occupied  by  stables  and  the  ofllices 
of  the  Mexican  railway.  Near  this  abode  of  wealth  is  a  pecu- 
liar, though  efiective,  tile-covered  block,  which  glistens  in  the 
sun  like  the  porcelain  domes  of  Ver^  Cruz.  Historic  and  beau- 
tiful buildings  abound  near  this  centre,  for  only  a  stone's  throw 
away  is  the  great  pile  built  long  ago  by  the  Franciscans,  a 
conventual  structure  which  they  lost  when  their  property  was 
secularized,  and  which  is  now  owned  and  used  by  two  Christian 
religious  corporations.  The  missionary  work  instituted  here  by 
the  Rev.  Dr.  Butler  is  now  successfully  carried  out  by  his  son, 
and  this  Methodist  rallying  place  for  Protestants  is  in  a  flourish- 
ing condition.  Halls  and  cloisters,  once  the  resort  of  unctu- 
ous, holy  monks,  are  now  filled  with  active  workers  in  the  good 
cause,  and  with  the  material  for  the  lively  propagation  of  the 
Gospel.  The  most  attractive  portion  is  that  facing  the  Calle 
de  San  Francisco,  and  owned  by  the  Episcopal  Church. 

A  little  way  distant,  a  few  streets  to  the  south,  is  another 
convent,    likewise   to    be   put    to    a   use    more    in    accordance 


HOTEL  ITURBIDE. 


A   RAMBLE   AROUND   THE   CITY.  257 

with  the  demands  of  the  times.  A  magnificent  building  has 
just  been  repaired,  and  in  a  measure  reconstructed,  for  the  re- 
ception of  one  hundred  thousand  or  more  volumes,  which  are 
to  constitute  a  national  library,  with  such  additions  as  the 
future  may  bring.  The  books  are  mostly  the  spoils  from  other 
convents  and  religious  establishments,  and  though  mainly  of  a 
character  more  suited  to  monks  and  recluses  than  to  the  student 
of  to-day,  yet  there  are  many  volumes  of  great  rarity  and  value 
pertaining  to  the  early  history  of  this  country.  While  upon 
this  subject,  I  might  remark  that  Mexico  is  yet  full  of  old  and 
rare  religious  books.  In  the  book-stalls,  which  are  daily  erected 
around  the  great  cathedral,  and  nightly  taken  away,  I  have  often 
purchased  odd  works  of  forgotten,  but  once  famous  authors. 
The  keepers  of  these  temporary  establishments  are  shrewd  and 
well  informed  on  the  value  of  books,  from  a  Mexican  stand- 
point; but  as  they  are  mostly  illiterate,  and  judge  of  the  value 
of  a  book  more  by  the  eagerness  of  a  customer  than  from  the 
reports  of  trade  sales  or  catalogues,  they  often  sell  for  a  mere 
song  volumes  worth  their  weight  in  silver.^ 

If  this  were  only  a  dissertation  on  old  books,  I  might  go  on 
describing  treasures  that  would  make  a  bibliophile's  eyes  water; 
but  as  my  object  is  merely  to  show  my  readers  how  they  may 
see  Mexico  and  its  possessions  to  the  best  advantage,  I  repress 
this  inclination  to  indulge  in  a  favorite  vanity. 

Of  old  houses  there  are  many  about  which  the  antiquary 
and  the  artist  might  love  to  linger.  Perhaps  that  one  in  which 
Humboldt  dwelt  while  here,  in  the  Calle  San  Augustin,  is 
sought  out  most  persistently.  It  is  made  conspicuous  by  an 
inscription  over  the  door.  Humboldt,  as  one  writer  has  well 
remarked,  is  indeed  an  honorary  citizen  of  the  capital,  and 
achieved  more  for  Mexican  independence  with  his  pen  than 
many  others  combined  with  the  sword.  Coming  up  from  South 
America,  he  landed  on  Mexican  soil  in  March,  1803,  and  re- 
mained a  year  in  the  country.  Though  he  only  visited  such 
points  as  were  of  easy  access  from  the  capital,  he  nevertheless  so 

1  A  few  old  works,  brought  home  by  the  author,  are  now  in  the  Public  Library 
of  Boston. 

17 


258  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

improved  and  utilized  the  labors  of  others  that  the  whole  terri- 
tory bears  the  impress  of  his  mighty  mind.  His  work,  "  A  Polit- 
ical Essay  on  the  Kingdom  of  New  Spain,"  though  now  chiefly 
useful  as  giving  statistical  information  regarding  the  country 
previous  to  and  at  the  period  of  his  visit,  must  yet  be  taken,  as 
a  later  writer  truly  says,  as  the  point  d'appiii  for  the  works  of 
all  travellers  coming  after  him.  Though  perhaps  he  did  not 
discover  here  much  that  was  new,  or  throw  any  new  light  upon 
the  history  of  the  people,  he  yet  brought  afresh  to  the  notice 
of  the  world  the  writings  of  the  old  historians,  revived  an 
interest  in  archaeology,  and  set  before  all  Europe  the  great 
natural  resources  of  a  country  then  inhabited  by  an  oppressed 
people.  His  books  have  been  a  mine  of  wealth  for  subsequent 
historians,  and  have  indeed  served  not  only  as  a  point  d'appui, 
but  as  a  very  material  portion  of  their  productions. 

No  building  in  the  city,  except  the  former  residence  of  Hum- 
boldt, so  forcibly  brings  to  mind  the  great  savant  as  the  mint, — 
the  Casa  de  Moneda.  Though  all  the  prominent  points  of  the 
valley,  such  hills  as  Chapultepec,  El  Penon,  and  the  Cerro  of 
Guadalupe,  are  associated  with  his  astronomical  observations 
and  trigonometrical  surveys,  yet  this  Casa  de  Moneda  recalls 
that  vast  array  of  figures  with  which  he  demonstrated  the  actual 
coinage  of  Mexico  from  remote  times  up  to  the  period  of  his 
visit.  Not  millions,  but  billions,  are  necessary  in  expressing  in 
dollars  the  vast  treasure  that  has  passed  through  this  mint, 
entering  in  crude  ingots  and  departing  in  glittering /^j'^j.  The 
wealth  of  Montezuma  and  the  Incas  of  Peru  combined  has  been 
poured  into  this  establishment  since  its  foundation,  since  its 
first  coinage  in  1535  to  the  present  day.  The  accumulated 
treasures  of  those  great  monarchs  represented  the  slow  ac- 
cretions of  centuries,  but  the  silver  flood  that  is  now  flowing 
into  the  apartado  represents  a  stream  that  promises  to  increase 
rather  than  diminish,  —  to  augment  as  the  rich  veins  are  de- 
veloped and  the  old  and  abandoned  mines  pumped  out  and 
reworked. 

The  coinage  here,  for  the  first  three  hundred  years,  was  not 
far  from  $2,200,000,000!     Though  I  cannot  give  exact  statis- 


A   RAMBLE   AROUND   THE   CITY.  261 

tics  of  this  mint  of  Mexico,  as  there  are  others  estabhshed  in 
the  large  cities  of  the  repubHc,  the  sum  total  of  all  the  mints,  so 
far  as  is  known,  up  to  the  year  1883  is  over  $3,000,000,000. 

The  coinage  only  is  shown  here  ;  millions  have  been  exported 
of  the  ore ;  and  an  approximate  of  the  whole  amount  will  be 
attempted  when  we  visit  the  mines.  We  may  wander  through 
these  halls  in  a  state  of  dazed  uncertainty  as  to  whether  we  are 
existing  in  the  past  or  present,  so  firmly  does  this  silver  chain 
of  dates  and  facts  bind  us,  and  lead  us  back  to  the  first  years  of 
Spanish  possession.  Through  centuries  of  change,  and  every 
variety  of  discord  and  warfare,  the  dies  of  the  mint  have  gone 
on,  stamping  the  likeness  of  successive  rulers  upon  the  product 
of  the  mines.  Coins  of  the  realm,  of  the  empire,  of  the  repub- 
lic, at  last  the  steady  stream  shows  only  an  even  flow  of  coins 
of  the  republic,  the  emblem  of  Liberty  upon  every  one. 
Every  peso  is  stamped  with  its  weight  in  drams  and  grains ; 
and  good  weight  it  is,  every  dollar  weighing  just  one  ounce; 
for  these  good  Mexicans  hold  that  an  honest  dollar  is  alone  the 
product  of  an  honest  man. 

Another  relic  of  the  past,  savoring  of  hell  and  iniquity, 
'though  now  devoted  to  use  as  a  college  of  medicine,  is  the  old 
Palace  of  the  Inquisition,  near  the  Plazuela  of  San  Domingo. 
Long  since  abolished,  the  hideous  face  of  the  tribunal  of  the 
Inquisition  peers  at  us  only  from  the  ashes  of  the  dead  and 
horrible  past.  Its  last  victim  in  Mexico,  General  Jose  Morelos, 
was  burned  in  November,  181 5.  For  two  hundred  and  fifty 
years,  since  1571,  it  had  exerted  its  baleful  influence,  but  was 
crushed,  with  the  last  vestige  of  Spanish  power,  in  1821.  The 
Plazuela  is  now  occupied  as  a  market  in  a  small  way,  by  poor 
people,  and  the  odor  of  sizzling  pork  and  tamales  rises  above 
the  very  place  where  heretics  and  apostates  were  once  roasted 
and  toasted  to  a  crisp. 

It  is  difficult  to  wander  far  from  your  door  without  encoun- 
tering a  hospital  of  some  sort;  which  fact  speaks  well  for  the 
people.  Since  the  suppression  of  the  monastic  establishments 
and  the  banishment  of  the  sweet  sisters  of  charity,  the  gov- 
ernment has  taken  these  hospitals   under  its  charge      By  the 


262 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


admission  of  both  friend  and   foe   it  has  discharged   its  duty 

faithfully,  and  the  sick  and  afflicted  of  all   classes   have  only 

to  mention  their  particular  complaints  when  they  are  at  once 
assigned  to  their  proper  wards. 


CHURCH    AND   PLAZA   OF   SAN   DOMINGO. 


Equally  numerous  are  the  theatres  and  dance-houses,  the 
largest  of  the  former  being  the  National,  —  Teatro  Nacional, — 
in  which  are  brought  out  many  things  interesting  to  Ameri- 
can as  well  as  Mexican.  A  defect  in  all  Mexican  theatres, 
and  a  very  objectionable  feature,  is  the  custom  of  allowing  the 
"  prompter  "  to  be  not  only  seen,  but  heard.  The  perpetual 
buzz  that  precedes  the  actor's  utterances  is  inexpressibly  annoy- 


A    RAMBLE   AROUND   THE   CITY.  263 

ing.  Yet  the  Mexicans  submit  to  these  impositions,  the  result 
of  negligence  on  the  part  of  the  actors,  and  apparently  are  not 
inconvenienced  by  it  at  all.  Cigarettes  between  the  acts,  and 
frequent  exchanges  of  calls,  are  permissible.  As  the  great  city 
is  now  lighted  by  electric  lights,  and  electric  clocks  connected 
with  the  astronomical  observatory  are  displayed  in  prominent 
places,  no  one  need  fear  to  wander  about  its  streets,  even  at 
night,  except  in  remote  and  unillumined  suburbs. 

Very  near  to  the  city,  once  situated,  in  fact,  at  the  end  of  the 
shortest  of  those  four  causeways  leading  out  of  ancient  Mexico, 
is  Tacuba,  two  miles  from  the  Alameda.  In  going  to  this  inter- 
esting suburb,  you  take  the  car  at  the  plaza,  and  pass  through, 
among  many  others,  the  avenue  of  illustrious  men,  Los  Hombres 
Ilustres,  which  ,is  very  wide  and  straight,  and  leads  directly  out 
into  the  country,  though  changing  its  name  half  a  dozen  times 
before  it  reaches  open  fields.  Lying  to  its  right,  beyond  the 
Alameda,  is  the  abode  of  some  of  the  men  who  have  made, 
not  only  this  street,  but  the  whole  republic,  illustrious.  They 
reside  in  a  silent  quarter  called  San  Fernando,  the  panteon,  or 
cemetery,  of  San  Fernando.  Most  of  the  great  men  of  Mexico 
are  dead  ;  the  greatest  lie  here,  either  sepulchred  beneath  costly 
marbles,  or  shelved  in  the  columbaria,  after  the  city  fashion  in 
this  country. 

By  far  the  richest  sculpture  is  that  above  the  remains  of 
Juarez,  the  "  Washington  of  Mexico,"  its  Indian  President,  its 
wise  ruler.  There  lie  buried,  also,  several  of  the  unfortunate 
generals  and  leaders  of  the  people,  who  have  been  executed  by 
their  countrymen,  either  by  the  people  because  they  leaned 
toward  Spain,  or  by  the  Spaniards  because  they  favored  the 
people.  They  died  for  their  country,  all  of  them,  and  through 
their  deaths,  though  they  fell  fighting  on  difTerent  sides,  is  their 
beloved  land  now  made  glorious.  I  wonder  if  there  will  be  any 
reproaches  in  order  when  the  last  trump  shall  summon  all  these 
heroes  to  their  final  awards.  Let  us  imagine  them  pleading 
their  cases. 

"  I,"  for  instance,  says  Iturbide,  "  struck  the  decisive  blow  that 
freed  my  country  from  the  yoke  of  Spain." 


264  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

"  Yes,"  will  reply  some  rank  republican,  "  and  set  up  an 
empire  of  your  own." 

"  But  I  first  blew  the  trumpet-call  of  freedom !  "  will  claim 
the  bold  Hidalgo. 

And  some  member  of  the  Church  party  will  retort:  "  And  in 
so  doing  sealed  the  doom  of  your  Catholic  mother." 

The  irrepressible  Santa  Anna  will  doubtless  attempt  to  prove 
that  he  was  the  saviour  of  Mexico ;  but  some  of  his  numerous 
enemies  will  fling  at  him  his  supreme  selfishness,  and  enumerate 
his  defeats  at  the  hands  of  the  Americans. 

Guerrero  and  Comonfort,  and  a  host  of  generals,  who  made 
their  fortunes  and  lost  their  lives  in  the  cause,  fighting  in  the  light 
that  then  shone  on  them,  will  not  allow  themselves  to  be  ignored. 
Miramon  and  Mexia  will  point  to  their  martyrdom  in  the  cause 
of  the  Church  and  the  Empire,  while  Maximilian  will  loftily, 
and  perhaps  justly,  claim  that  the  imperial  government  he  rep- 
resented and  gave  his  life  for  was  the  only  one  fitted  for  Mex- 
ico. Juarez  will  undoubtedly  rest  serenely  confident  that  the 
peace  and  progress  resulting  from  his  administration  is  his  title 
to  a  seat  among  the  elect.  But  what  will  they  all  say  when  there 
appears  the  apparition  of  the  great  warrior  who  made  their 
feeble  exercise  of  power  a  possibility?  Will  they  not  shrink 
before  his  terrible  features,  and  allow  him  a  hearing  without 
interruption?  Cortes,  the  conqueror,  the  chosen  of  the  Lord, 
the  fighter  for  the  faith,  the  murderer  of  Indians  of  royal  blood, 
the  founder  of  Spanish  dominion  in  New  Spain,  —  all  must 
bow  before  him,  unless  the  Aztecs,  whom  he  destroyed,  be  al- 
lowed to  have  a  voice  in  the  matter.  Montezuma  and  Gua- 
temotzin !  what  burning  brands  ye  could  cast  at  the  Spanish 
bigot!  Would  he  bow  his  head  before  your  reproaches,  or 
would  he  fling  at  you  the  long  record  of  the  victims  of  the  sac- 
rifice murdered  by  you  and  your  ancestors?  The  record  of 
Cortes  is  not  a  true  one,  if  he  would  not  overwhelm  you  with 
evidence  that  he  did  the  world  a  service  in  destroying  you  and 
your  religion. 

Now,  not  all  these  heroes  are  buried  here  in  San  Fernando, 
but  the  few  that  are,  having  represented  politics  of  such  differ- 


A   RAMBLE   AROUND   THE   CITY.  26$ 

ent  complexions,  suggest  the  thoughts  expressed  above.  Who 
is  to  judge  which  of  these  men  were  in  the  right?  It  is  my 
opinion,  that  no  more  difficult  problem  will  arise  at  the  last 
judgment,  than  when  these  Mexican  heroes  shall  put  in  their 
appearance  for  a  final  award. 

In  the  cities  the  cemeteries  are  well  cared  for ;  marble  busts 
and  monuments  mark  the  resting-places  of  famous  dead,  while 
tiers  of  sealed  cells  of  masonry  hold  the  remains  of  many  more. 
But  in  the  country  it  is  different,  and  they  fall  into  terrible  ne- 
glect. In  obedience  to  custom,  that  ordains  that  no  grave  can 
be  held  longer  than  for  a  certain  term  of  years,  the  grave  is 
opened,  and  room  made  for  another  occupant  at  the  expiration 
of  the  time  in  the  deed.  Once  dead,  forgotten.  After  a  few 
years  their  bones  are  dug  up  and  thrown  into  a  charnel  pit  in 
the  corner  of  the  cemetery,  and  their  places  occupied  anew. 
A  spectacle  to  move  one  to  tears  is  this,  of  the  last  remains  of 
man,  of  woman,  and  of  youth  treated  as  though  but  a  por- 
tion of  the  meaner  clay  around  them.  I  have  seen  grinning 
skulls,  with  eyeless  sockets,  and  long  tresses  yet  attached  to 
them,  which  told  that  the  spirit  of  gentle  woman  once  resided 
there,  cast  out  in  the  charnel  pits,  to  become  the  sport  of  the 
elements  and  the  scorn  of  beholders.  These  ghastly  emblems 
of  death  are  too  often  the  ornaments  of  altars  and  niches  in  the 
churches,  and  they  may  be  seen  ranged  in  rows  upon  church- 
yard walls,  and  piled  up  at  the  bases  of  crosses  and  at  the  feet 
of  shrines.  But,  little  by  little,  Mexico  is  purging  herself  of 
these  emblems  of  a  moribund  Church,  and  they  will  soon  cease 
to  offend  the  senses  of  the  traveller  in  any  part  of  the  republic. 

When  horse-cars  were  first  introduced  into  the  city  of  Mexico, 

Senor  E ,  the  manager  of  the  lines,  conceived  the  plan  of 

purchasing  all  the  hearses.  Then  he  put  funeral  cars  on  the 
branch  running  to  the  cemetery,  and  the  result  was  that  every- 
body wishing  to  bury  in  consecrated  ground  was  at  his  mercy. 
It  soon,  however,  came  to  be  the  fashion  to  visit  the  grave- 
yard in  the  horse-cars,  and  all  except  the  very  poorest  people 
might  avail  themselves  of  this  privilege.  A  funeral  procession 
of  this  sort  passed  me  one  day  in  the  Plaza,  the  car  draped 


266 


TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 


in  white,  the  white  coffin  exposed  to  the  glare  of  day  and  the 
gaze  of  the  populace,  the  horses  with  nodding  plumes  driven 
by  a  spruce  young  man  in  conventional  uniform,  and  the  car 
containing  the  "  mourners "  gliding  smoothly  over  the  rails. 
The  price  for  service  is  graduated  to  suit  the  taste  and  neces- 
sity of  every  one,  being  from  above  one  hundred  dollars  down 
to  as  low  as  three,  depending  upon  the  number  of  horses,  equip- 
ment of  the  hearse,  and  number  and  livery  of  attendants. 


A   FUNERAL   CAR. 


Of  the  many  churches  in  the  city,  all  equally  attractive  in 
their  internal  decoration,  no  one  is  more  so  from  its  exterior 
ornamentation  than  that  of  San  Hypolito,  not  far  from  the 
Panteon.  It  was  rebuilt  in  1599,  where,  it  is  said,  Cortes  once 
had  a  hermitage,  in  commemoration  of  the  expulsion  of  the 
Spaniards  from  the  city.  On  the  corner  of  the  wall  enclosing 
the  church  is  a  carving  in  stone,  representing  an  eagle  flying 
away  with   an    Indian.     Whether  it  is   intended  to  convey  the 


A    RAMBLE   AROUND    THE   CITY.  267 

idea  of  victory  for  the  Indian  or  of  defeat,  of  the  rapacity  of  the 
conquerors  or  the  translation  of  the  Aztec  to  realms  of  super- 
nal bliss,  has  never  been  satisfactorily  explained.  Near  this 
church,  tradition  has  it,  was  the  ditch  which  Alvarado  leaped, 
on  that  night  of  general  disaster,  the  Noche  Triste.  Commander 
of  the  rear  guard,  he  was  one  of  the  few  who  escaped,  and 
claimed  to  have  owed  his  life  to  a  leap  across  one  of  the  canals, 
from  which  the  bridge  had  been  removed,  in  the  causeway  lead- 
ing to  Tacuba.  But  Bernal  Diaz,  writing  fifty  years  after  the 
events  of  that  night,  says  that  the  aperture  was  too  wide  and 
the  sides  too  high  for  him  to  have  leaped,  let  him  have  been 
ever  so  active.  "  As  to  that  fatal  bridge,  which  is  called  the 
'  Leap  of  Alvarado,'  I  say  that  no  soldier  thought  of  looking 
whether  he  leaped  much  or  little,  for  we  had  enough  to  do  to 
save  our  own  lives." 

We  are  on  the  way  now  to  the  "  tree  of  Noche  Triste"  but 
there  are  so  many  objects  of  antiquity  connected  with  the  early 
history  of  the  city  that  we  cannot  avoid  frequent  halts.  The 
aqueduct  of  San  Cosme,  which  ends  in  a  sculptured  fountain,  is 
beyond  the  portion  of  the  street  known  as  Buena  Vista,  where 
there  are  some  fine  houses  and  gardens  of  wealthy  citizens, 
and  a  little  farther  is  the  gate  stormed  by  the  Americans  when 
they  charged  down  the  line  of  the  aqueduct  upon  the  city. 
Just  where  the  giant  water-way  turns  abruptly  westward  and 
stretches  out  towards  Chapultepec  is  a  spot  no  loyal  American 
should  fail  to  visit,  —  the  cemetery  set  apart  for  the  burial  of 
foreigners.  It  is  called  the  American  cemetery,  though  more 
Germans  are  buried  there  than  countrymen  of  ours,  and  adjoin- 
ing it  is  the  English  portion,  both  densely  shaded,  both  neatly 
kept,  and  fragrant  with  the  flowers  planted  here  in  profusion. 
At  the  west  end,  towards  Chapultepec,  is  a  monument,  a  gran- 
ite shaft  with  marble  dies,  on  one  of  which  is  inscribed,  "  To  the 
memory  of  the  American  soldiers  who  perished  in  this  valley 
in  1847,  whose  bones,  collected  by  their  country's  order,  are 
here  buried";  and  on  the  other,  "  Contreras,  Churubusco, 
Molino  del  Rey,  Chapultepec,  Mexico."  It  occurred  to  me 
that  the  Mexicans  must  be  a  forgiving  people,  that  they  allow 


268  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

such  an  humiliating  reminder  of  defeat  to  stand  on  the  border 
of  their  chief  city.  It  would  have  been  more  generous  in  our 
people  to  have  omitted  the  names  of  the  victories,  content  to 
have  a  simple  monument  over  our  brave  soldiers ;  for  we  need 
no  reminder  of  that  buried  past,  now  that  our  former  foe  is 
marching  with  us  hand  in  hand  to  an  assured  future  of  prosper- 
ity. The  cemetery  lies  just  clear  of  the  suburbs,  and  where  the 
level  fertile  fields  commence.  When  I  was  there  the  freshest 
grave  was  that  of  Colonel  Greenwood,  who  had  been  assassi- 
nated a  few  months  previously,  while  surveying  the  line  of  the 
National  Railroad  :   flowers  were  yet  fresh  upon  it. 

About  a  mile  from  the  stone  bridge  here  is  the  tree  we  are 
looking  for;  it  is  a  charming  walk, — or  it  was  that  day  in 
April  when  I  first  made  my  pilgrimage,  —  through  fields  green 
with  alfalfa  and  bordered  with  trees  and  magueys,  and  before 
you  are  aware  of  fatigue,  after  turning  a  sharp  bend  in  the  road, 
the  famous  tree  rises  before  you ;  —  a  grand  old  cypress,  that 
would  attract  our  attention  were  it  not  surrounded  with  that 
halo  of  history.  Its  swelling  trunk  is  said  to  be  sixty  feet 
around,  though  its  jagged  limbs,  blasted  by  many  a  storm  and 
worn  with  age,  do  not  reach  far  above  the  little  chapel  that 
squats  beside  it.  This  chapel  was  erected  in  memory  of  that 
night  of  dreadful  battle,  when  the  Spaniards,  driven  like  sheep 
before  the  hordes  of  Aztecs,  perished  as  never  before  in  the 
New  World,  trodden  under  foot,  with  their  backs  to  the  enemy. 
La  nocJie  triste  they  called  that  awful  night  of  black  despair, — 
"  the  sorrowful  night,"  —  and  this  aged  cypress,  that  still  stands 
in  defiance  of  the  assaults  of  time,  el  arbol  de  la  nocJie  triste,  the 
tree  of  the  sorrowful  night.  Here,  in  this  village  of  Popotla, 
Cortes  sat  down  upon  a  stone,  and  wept  at  the  loss  of  his 
soldiers ;  —  beneath  this  tree,  it  is  affirmed  by  some,  —  at  all 
events,  near  this  spot.  Alluding  to  this  circumstance,  an  ancient 
writer  sings  dolefully  :  — 

"  In  Tacuba'  was  Cortes,  with  many  a  gallant  chief ; 
He  thought  upon  his  losses,  and  bowed  his  head  with  grief." 

The  town  of  Tacuba  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  farther,  and 
not  a  great  distance  beyond   is  Atzcapotzalco,  once  the  seat 


A   RAMBLE   AROUND   THE   CITY. 


269 


of  a  native  kingdom,  which  fell  with  that  of  Montezuma.      No 
ruins  here,  or  remains  of  the  sacred  edifices  that  existed  at  the 

first  coming  of  the  Spaniards, 
save  a  low  mound  and  scattered 
fragments  of  pottery.  Both  vil- 
lages are  easily  reached  from  the 
city,  and  both  contain  religious 
establishments,  that  of  Atzca- 
potzalco  being  of 
great  proportions. 
The  church,  or 
chapel,  standing 
hard  by  the  tree 
of  noche  triste, 
seems  aban- 
doned to  the  In- 
dians, and  is 
very  old, — old 
enough  to  carry 
the  thoughts 
back  to  that  sad 
night  of  the  first 
of  July,  1520.  The 
Aztecs  relaxed  their  pur- 
suit here  at  Popotla,  else  not 
a  Spaniard  would  have  re- 
mained alive  to  tell  the  tale ; 
and,  though  harassed  by  the 
inhabitants  of  the  towns  about, 
the  soldiers  made  good  their  es- 
cape, on  the  day  following,  to 
Otancalpolco,  where  they  fortified 
themselves  in  a  temple  on  a  hill.  Thence,  after  a  brief  night 
of  rest,  they  marched  under  guidance  of  a  single  Indian  towards 
Tlascala,  their  place  of  refuge;  though  not  without  another 
battle,  in  which  they  came  near  being  annihilated.  Upon  the 
hill  where  they  obtained  their  first  relief,  and  a  little  time  to 


TREE   OF   NOCHE  TRISTE. 


270 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


dress  their  wounds,  there  was  erected  some  years  later  a  church 
dedicated  to  Our  Lady  of  Succor,  —  Nuestra  Sehora  de  los 
Remedios,  —  and  this  Virgin  of  the  Remedios  was  a  long 
time  honored,  and  the  people  made  pilgrimages  to  her  shrine. 
She  was  a  faithful  saint,  and  did  all  she  could  for  her  wor- 
shippers ;  but  as  she  was  the  saint  of  the  Spaniards,  she  was 
deposed  in  the  revolution,  and  now  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe 
reigns  supreme. 


XIV. 

THE    MEXICANS    AT    HOME. 

IT  may  have  occurred  to  the  reader,  by  this  time,  that  the 
great  city  I  have  been  describing,  that  cloud-dwelHng  cap- 
ital of  Mexico,  is  lacking  in  population ;  that  its  magnificent 
houses,  hotels,  and  public  edifices  are  tenantless.  Yet  such  is 
not  the  case ;  for  at  least  280,000  people  inhabit  there.  The 
reason  that  I  have  not  before  described  them  particularly  is, 
that  I  wished  to  complete  each  topic  as  I  took  it  up,  to  convey 
to  the  mind  of  the  reader  a  distinct  and  lasting  picture. 

Before  turning  our  attention  to  the  Mexicans,  let  me  confess 
that  I  have  many  misgivings  as  to  the  result.  I  know  that  it  is 
the  custom  to  abuse  the  Mexicans,  to  affirm  that  no  good  thing 
can,  ever  did,  or  ever  will,  come  out  of  their  country.  At  the 
outset,  let  me  state  that  I  shall  not  here  indulge  in  invective. 
As  a  traveller  who  has  seen  the  Mexican  in  nearly  all  the 
existing  phases  of  life,  who  (coming  from  a  country  radically 
different  in  its  internal  life)  shared,  perhaps,  in  the  customary 
prejudices  against  these  people,  but  who  has  since  dispassion- 
ately studied  them  by  their  works,  and  through  the  works  of 
others,  I  may  be  permitted  to  express  the  belief  that  my  views 
are  substantially  correct.  But  lest  I  should  seem  prejudiced, 
one  way  or  another,  I  shall  mainly  present,  in  the  following 
pages,  the  opinions  of  other  writers. 

Of  the  ten  millions  of  people  comprising  the  population  of 
Mexico,  at  least  one  third  are  pure  Indians,  aborigines,  indige- 
nous to  the  soil ;  one  sixth,  Europeans  and  their  Creole  descend- 
ants ;  and  one  half.  Mestizos,  or  "  mixed  "  people.  According 
to  the  latest  census  (1883),  the  entire  mass  of  the  population 
is  divided  as  follows  :  — 


2/2  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

Indians   {raza  indigena) 3,200,000 

Europeans  and  their  descendants  (Creoles)  .     .     .     1,500,000 
Mestizos  {raza  mezdada) 5,800,000 

Total 10,500,000 

As  to  the  peculiarities  of  this  people,  let  me  quote  from  Senor 
Don  Garcia  Cubas,  a  learned  and  observant  native  of  Mexico. 
"  The  difference    of  dress,    customs,    and    language,"   he   says, 

"  makes  known  the  heterogeneousness  of  the  population 

The  habits  and  customs  of  the  individuals  who  compose  the 
Creole  division  conform  in  general  to  European  civilization, 
particularly  to  the  fashions  of  the  French,  with  reminiscences 
of  the  Spanish.  Their  national  language  is  Spanish ;  French  is 
much  in  vogue,  whilst  English,  German,  and  Italian  are  receiv- 
ing increasing  attention.  The  nearest  descendants  of  the  Span- 
iards, and  those  less  mixed  up  with  the  native  race  in  Mexico, 
belong  by  their  complexion  to  the  white  race.  The  natural 
inclination  of  the  mixed  race  to  the  habits  and  customs  of 
their  white  brethren,  as  well  as  their  estrangement  from  those 
of  the  natives,  is  the  reason  that  many  of  them  figure  in  the 
most  important  associations  of  the  country,  by  their  learning 
and  intelligence,  including  in  this  large  number  the  worthy 
members  of  the  middle  classes.  From  this  powerful  coalition, 
the  force  of  an  energetic  development  naturally  results,  which 
is  inimical  to  the  increase  of  the  indigenous  race  (the  Indian), 
not  a  few  of  the  natives  themselves  contributing  to  this  fatal 
consequence,  who,  by  their  enlightenment,  have  joined  the  body 
I  have  referred  to,  thereby  founding  new  families  with  the  habits 
and  customs  of  the  upper  classes." 

From  this  we  may  infer  the  gradual  extinction  of  the  native 
Indian  race,  by  gradual  absorption  into  the  more  powerful 
mixed  class ;  yet,  although  they  are  slowly  melting  away  in 
the  north,  in  the  south  they  are  increasing  in  number,  until 
the  country  south  of  the  capital  is  to  a  great  extent  in  their 
possession. 

The  original  stock  of  Mexico  is  the  Indian,  and,  in  pursuance 
of  my  plan,  — to  commence  at  the  bottom  and  work  upward, — 
we  will  inquire  wherein  the  Mexican  Indian  is  peculiar. 


THE   MEXICANS   AT   HOME. 


273 


It  need  not  be  stated,  for  the  information  of  American  readers, 
that  the  Indian  is  of  a  brown  or  olive  color ;  he  has  little  or  no 
beard,  is  rather  under  medium  height,  generally  stout  or  corpu- 
lent, with  muscular  thighs,  broad  chest, 
and  rather  slender  arms ;  he  is  not  over 
strong,  but  capable  of  great  feats  of  en- 
durance, and  is  the  entire  reliance  of  the 
country  for  work  in  the  mines  and  agri- 
cultural labor.  The  Indian,  says  the 
German  traveller  Sartorius,  invariably 
retains  his  national  dress,  which  is  as  sim- 
ple as  the  whole  mode  of  life  of  these 
children  of  nature.  The  man  wears  short, 
wide  drawers  of  coarse  cotton  or  deer- 
skin, which  seldom  reach  to  the  knee,  and 
a  sort  of  frock  of  coarse  woollen  cloth, 
fastened  around  the  hips  by  a  belt;  a 
straw  hat  and  sandals  complete  his  dress, 
which  is  devoid  of  all  ornament.  The 
females  wrap  themselves  in  a  piece  of 
woollen  stuff  that  passes  twice  around 
the  body,  but  is  not  closed  with  a  seam ; 
this  is  girded  round  the  waist  by  a  broad 
colored  band,  and  reaches  to  the  unshod  feet.  The  upper  part 
of  the  body  is  covered  with  the  huipile,  a  wide  garment  closed 
on  all  sides,  reaching  to  the  knee,  and  furnished  with  two  open- 
ings for  the  arms.  The  hair,  tied  up  with  a  bright  ribbon,  is 
either  wound  about  the  head  in  a  thick  roll,  or  hangs  down  in 
two  plaits;  large  earrings  and  bead  necklaces  complete  the 
attire.  The  Indians  distinguish  their  tribes  by  the  color  and 
fashion  of  their  simple  clothing.  Wearing  shoes  is  considered 
by  them  a  departure  from  the  good  old  fashion. 

His  dwelling  is  in  keeping  with  his  simple  person.  In  the 
warm,  well-wooded  regions  he  builds  of  wood,  and  of  palm 
leaves  and  stalks;  on  the  table  lands,  of  unburnt  brick  (adobe), 
with  a  flat  roof  of  stamped  clay  supported  by  beams.  Inside 
the  hut  burns,  day  and  night,  the  sacred  fire  of  the  domestic 


MEXICAN    INDIAN. 
(From  a  Wax  Figure.) 


274  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

hearth.  Near  it  are  the  jnetaU  and  metalpile,  and  an  earthen  pan, 
cotnale,  for  baking  the  maize  bread.  A  few  unglazed  pots  and 
dishes,  a  large  water-pitcher,  cups  and  dippers  of  gourd  shell, 
comprise  all  the  wealth,  and  a  few  carvings  of  saints  (perhaps) 
the  decorations.  Mats  of  rushes  or  palm  leaves  answer  for 
seats,  table,  and  bed,  and  for  their  final  rest  in  the  grave.  A 
mattock  and  hoe,  nets  perhaps  and  strings,  the  weaving  appa- 
ratus of  the  woman  (a  few  sticks),  and  the  scanty  provisions, 
hang  on  the  wall  and  from  the  rafters.  The  Indian  still  uses 
the  ancient  temascale,  or  steam-bath,  —  a  vaulted  adobe  oven, 
just  high  enough  to  sit  upright  in,  where  stones  are  heated 
and  water  poured  on  them  to  generate  steam, — and  practises 
simple  remedies  for  his  few  diseases.  His  food  is  mostly  vege- 
tables and  fruits.  He  distils  and  brews  his  own  liquors ;  on 
the  coast,  palm  wine,  and  rum  from  sugar-cane ;  on  the  table 
lands,  pulque  from  the  agave,  the  fermented  juice  of  the  tuna,  or 
prickly-pear,  chicha,  chilote,  etc.  Maize  is  their  support,  and 
this  is  planted  everywhere. 

After  the  conquest  of  Mexico  by  the  Spaniards,  the  lands  of 
the  Indians  became  the  property  of  the  invaders ;  but  upon 
remote  ranges  of  mountains,  and  in  unhealthy  coast  regions, 
they  retained  land,  because  the  conquerors  feared  to  settle  there 
in  scattered  bodies.  A  reactionary  Spanish  law  granted  to  each 
Indian  village  a  free  possession  extending  600  varas  (1,800 
feet)  from  the  church,  in  all  directions,  and  in  addition  to  this 
a  square  tract  of  3,600  feet  base  line.  This  they  still  possess 
and  can  cultivate  in  common,  though  many  prefer  to  work  on 
plantations  as  day-laborers.  The  Indian  is  always  in  debt,  and 
as  he  can  never  leave  an  estate  until  he  has  worked  out  his  in- 
debtedness, he  exists  in  a  state  of  peonage  which  is  a  mild 
sort  of  slavery.  They  carry  on  few  branches  of  industry,  but 
have  great  capacity  for  making  ornaments,  and  for  manufactur- 
ing "  antiquities,"  which  are  bought  by  unsuspecting  travellers 
and  deposited  in  museums  as  genuine  relics  of  the  past. 

These  people  are  trained  porters  and  bearers  of  heavy  bur- 
dens ;  they  will  sometimes  go  eighty  or  a  hundred  miles  to 
market,   and  often   thirty  or    forty,   with    loads    of  provisions, 


THE   MEXICANS    AT   HOME. 


275 


chickens,  etc.,  that  will  bring  only  a  dollar  or  two  at  the  most. 
They  have  a  peculiar  dog-trot,  which  they  keep  up  hour  after 
hour  and  day  after  day;  some  of  the  Indian  couriers,  through 
their  knowledge  of  paths  and  by-ways,  have  been  known  to 
accomplish  the  distance  between  certain  points  in  less  time  than 
the  mail-coach.  Their  ordinary  load  for  a  long  journey  is  from 
seventy-five  to  a  hundred  pounds,  but 
in  the  mines  they  climb  up  the  primitive 
ladders  —  merely  notched  poles  —  bear- 
ing four  hundred  and  even  five  hun- 
dred pounds  of  ore. 

The  Indian  is  contented  with  the  little 
he  gets,  and  if  a  little  remain  it  is  al- 
most invariably  spent  at  the  pulquerias 
—  the  liquor-shops  —  before  he  departs 
for  home.  Although  the  Indians  form 
villages  and  settlements  by  themselves, 
and  in  the  city  of  Mexico  dwell  in  a 
suburb  apart  from  the  whites,  yet  they 
freely  mingle  in  the  streets,  "  a  people 
within  a  people,"  says  the  authority 
from  which  the  preceding  account  has 
been  mainly  drawn;  they  remain  apart, 
interfering  in  none  of  the  affairs  of  the 
upper  classes,  and  confining  even  their 
quarrels  to  their  own  class.  Humble  and  obedient,  their  self- 
abasement  is  such  that  they  accept  and  apply  to  themselves  the 
reproach  of  the  whites,  a  term  that  implies  that  they  have  no 
understanding.  A  white  man  is  to  them  a  gente  de  razon,  —  a 
man  of  intelligence, — while  the  Indian  is  called  a  gente  sin 
razon,  or  a  man  without  reason,  —  of  no  understanding. 

Further  research  into  the  Indian  question  may  prove  tedious 
to  the  general  reader,  and  so  we  will  leave  the  subject,  merely 
pausing  to  state  that  the  difference  between  the  nomadic  Indian 
of  the  Western  prairies  and  the  agricultural  Indian  of  Mexico 
is  hardly  greater  than  that  existing  between  the  Aztec  of  the 
valley  of  Mexico,  or   the  Yaqui  of  Sonora,  and  the  native  of 


INDIAN    WOMAN. 
(From  a  Wax  Figure.) 


2/6  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

Tehuantepec , and  Yucatan;  in  a  word,  there  are  Indians  and 
Indians.  We  need  only  note  that  the  languages  and  dialects 
spoken  by  the  various  Indians  of  Mexico  number  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty,  besides  sixty  more  which  are  known  to  have 
become  extinct. 

The  race  which  was  imposed  upon  the  country  at  the  coming 
of  the  Spaniards  should  be  the  next  to  attract  our  attention, 
since  it  is  from  the  union  of  this  with  the  aboriginal  that  the 
representative  Mexican  is  produced.  The  Creoles  {Criollos) 
are  either  Europeans  or  of  European  parentage.  At  the  time 
of  the  revolution,  1 8 10-182 1,  a  term  of  contempt  was  used  in 
speaking  of  the  Spaniards ;  they  were  called  Gachupines.  The 
Creoles  were  at  one  time  the  gentry,  the  aristocracy  of  Mexico, 
and  even  have  aspirations  in  that  direction  now.  In  them,  says 
Sartorius,  we  recognize  the  features  of  the  Spaniard  of  the 
south,  the  conquerors  and  first  colonists  having  been  Andalu- 
sians.  They  are  gentle  and  refined,  yet  vain  and  passionate, 
excellent  hosts,  delightful  companions,  addicted  to  gaming,  and 
passionate  admirers  of  the  fair  sex.  The  latter  number  among 
them  many  exceedingly  lovely  women,  with  dark  complexions, 
large,  languishing  eyes,  lithe  and  delicate  forms,  and  dainty  feet 
and  hands.  They  are  so  closely  immured  in  their  prison-like 
dwellings  that  the  foreigner  has  few  opportunities  for  judging 
of  their  character;  but  I  will  venture  to  affirm  that  it  will,  com- 
pare favorably  with  that  of  their  sisters  of  more  northern  climes. 
The  daughters  are  closely  watched  by  the  mothers,  who  rarely 
trust  them  alone  out  of  their  sight.  This  may  or  may  not 
be  necessary ;  niatcrfarnilias  thinks  it  is ;  the  wicked  young 
man,  against  whom  all  these  precautions  are  taken,  thinks  it 
cruel. 

"Domestic  life  is  very  diff"erent  from  that  of  the  Germanic 
races.  The  life  led  by  the  ladies  in  their  boudoirs  savors  some- 
thing of  the  Oriental ;  they  work  beautifully  with  the  needle, 
weave  and  embroider,  play  and  sing;  the  intellectual  element, 
however,  is  wanting,  the  understanding  and  the  heart  are  un- 
cultivated, and  sensuality  therefore  easily  obtains  the  upper 
hand Taken  altogether,   the  morals  are  more  lax  even 


THE   BEAUTIFUL   CREOLE. 
(From  a  Photograph.) 


THE   MEXICANS   AT   HOME. 


279 


than  in  Spain,  and  yet  less  corrupt  than  in  the  large  cities  of 
Europe."  This  opinion  is  given  by  a  writer  who  is  commended 
in  unqualified  terms  by  Senor  Cubas,  himself  a  Mexican,  or  I 
should  have  much  hesitancy  in  accepting  it.  Personally  speak- 
ing, I  saw  no  indication  of  this  laxity  of  morals  among  the  better 
classes,  although  among  certain  Indian  tribes  women  of  easy 
virtue  are  the  rule  rather  than  the  exception. 

In  their  dress,  the  Creoles  differ  in  no  important  particu- 
lar from  the  French,  the  ladies  especially  conforming  to  the 
latest  fashion  plates  from  Paris,  with  this  exception,  that  at 
morning  mass,  and  in  making  unceremonious  calls,  they  wear 
that  graceful  Spanish  head-dress,  the  mantilla;  and  the  gen- 
tlemen, when  on  horseback,  or  in  the  country,  adopt  the  pic- 
turesque riding  costume  of  the  Mestizos.  They  have  many 
lovable  traits :  their  goodness  of  heart,  their  cheerful  endurance 
of  the  petty  ills  of  life,  the  respect  and  courtesy  paid  by  chil- 
dren to  their  parents,  and  the  frankness  with  which  a  stranger 
is  received  by  the  family,  who  all  combine  to  please  and  enter- 
tain him,  —  these  are  but  few  of  their  amiable  qualities. 

The  deeper  we  get  into  this  subject,  the  more  delicate  be- 
comes the  nature  of  it.  VVe  now  approach  that  third  race  (so 
called)  of  Mexico,  the  Mestizo,  or  mixed  people.  Again,  al- 
though I  have  already  expressed  myself  regarding  the  Mestizo 
character,  I  shall  doubt  my  ability  to  deal  with  it  satisfactorily, 
and  shall  present  the  opinions  of  one  longer  a  resident  of  Mex- 
ico than  myself 

"  The  noblest  of  the  Aztecs,"  says  the  author  of  Mexico  and 
the  Mexicans,  "  fell  in  battle  with  the  Spaniards ;  their  property 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  victors,  who  at  the  same  time  became 
possessed  of  the  families  of  those  who  had  fallen ;  the  rude 
warriors  married  the  dusky  daughters,  who  were  rendered  their 
equals  by  baptism.  It  was  not  considered  a  mesalliance  to 
marry  a  noble  Aztec  girl.  The  sons  of  Montezuma,  who  were 
educated  in  Spain,  received  the  title  of  Count.  The  Indian 
aristocracy  adopted  Christianity,  and  became  amalgamated  with 
the  new  population.  It  was  not  so  with  the  poorer  classes,  who 
from  the  earliest  periods  had  been  subjected  to  the  Indian  aris- 


28o 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


tocracy,  and  at  the  conquest  only  changed  masters.  Neverthe- 
less, countless  mongrels  were  born,  some  in  lawful  matrimony, 
some  per  nefas;  and  during  three  centuries  the  priest  and  the 
monk,  the  soldier  and  the  young  Creole,  have  continued  to 
engraft  the  Caucasian  stock  on  the  wild  trunk.  Thus  arose  the 
numerous  Mestizo  population,  which  has 
inherited  in  part  the  brown  hue  of  the 
mother,  but  also  the  greater  energy  and 
more  vigorous  mind  of  the  father. 

"  The  Mestizo,  then,  is  properly  the  off- 
spring (not  always  properly  begotten)  of 
white  father  and  Indian  mother.  He  has 
an  inborn  originality,  and  is  the  represent- 
ative of  national  customs  and  peculiari- 
ties. He  is  a  magnificent  horseman ;  one 
might  take  him  for  an  Arab,  as,  lance  in 
hand,  he  rushes  past  upon  his  light  steed. 
In  the  warmer  regions  he  wears  (on  Sun- 
days) a  carefully  plaited  white  shirt,  wide 
trousers  of  white  or  colored  drilling,  fas- 
tened round  the  hips  by  a  gay  girdle, 
brown  leather  gaiters,  and  broad  felt  hat, 
with  silver  cord  or  fur  band  about  it.  The 
peasants,  or  rancJieros,  are  usually  distin- 
guished by  the  cahoneras,  or  open  trousers 
of  leather  ornamented  with  silver,  with  white  drawers  show- 
ing through,  a  colored  silk  handkerchief  about  the  neck,  and 
the  sarape,  —  the  blanket-shawl  with  slit  in  the  centre,  resem- 
bling a  herald's  mantle.  The  women  seldom  wear  stockings, 
though  their  dainty  feet  are  often  encased  in  satin  slippers ; 
they  have  loose,  embroidered  chemises,  and  a  woollen  or  calico 
skirt,  while  the  rebozo  —  a  narrow  but  long  shawl  —  is  drawn 
over  the  head,  and  covers  the  otherwise  exposed  arms  and 
breast." 

These  are  the  elements  that  go  to  make  up  the  Mexican  peo- 
ple :  Indians,  Creoles,  Mestizos.  The  last  constitute  the  great 
majority  of  rancheros,  or  farmers,  and  arrieros,  or  mule-drivers ; 


MESTIZO. 
(By  a  Native  Artist.) 


THE   MEXICANS   AT   HOME.  28 1 

and  in  this  latter  capacity,  often  in  the  charge  of  great  condiictas, 
or  trains,  of  treasure-laden  animals,  have  always  proved  honest 
and  trustworthy  messengers. 

The  Mestizos  are  of  pleasant  countenance,  when  of  good  ex- 
traction, of  full  figure,  with  complexions  which,  though  swarthy, 
are  yet  fresh,  and  sometimes  rosy.  As  servants,  the  Mestizos 
are  generally  faithful,  not  over  fond  of  ablution,  but  having 
high  regard  for  their  masters  and  mistresses.  Always  aspir- 
ing, the  Mestizo  is  rapidly  drawing  away  from  the  Indian  pro- 
genitor, and  assimilates  with  the  white  race ;  it  is  said  that 
Mestizos  of  the  third  generation  cannot  be  distinguished  from 
the  Creoles  themselves.  As  politicians,  they  have  ever  been 
successful,  taking  to  law,  also,  as  naturally  as  to  the  profession 
of  arms.  Not  alone  in  point  of  numerical  superiority,  but  as 
regards  the  real  possession  of  powder,  through  peculiar  fitness  for 
holding  political  office,  the  Mestizos  are  the  dominant  people  of 
Mexico  to-day. 

But  there  is  a  class  of  Mestizos  which  a  truthful  delineation 
of  Mexican  society  compels  me  to  mention,  not  so  creditable 
to  Mexico  by  half  as  the  poorest  and  most  degraded  of  the  In- 
dians. I  speak  of  the  Lepero.  The  union  of  the  worst  of  the 
Spanish  with  the  worst  of  the  Aztec  race  produced  a  progeny 
that  exhibited  all  the  vices,  without  a  single  virtue,  of  the  parent 
stock.  Time,  instead  of  ameliorating,  has  hardened  him,  and  the 
miserable  lepero  is  the  vilest  specimen  of  humanity,  the  most 
degraded,  most  devoid  of  principle  and  honor,  to  be  found  on 
the  American  continent.  And  what  is  the  lepero?  Let  Brantz 
Mayer,  a  close  observer  of  the  Mexicans  for  quite  a  length  of 
time,  answer  this  question :  "  Blacken  a  man  in  the  sun,  let  his 
hair  grow  long  and  tangled,  and  become  filled  with  vermin ; 
let  him  plod  about  the  streets  in  all  kinds  of  dirt  for  years, 
and  never  know  the  use  of  brush  or  towel,  or  water  even,  ex- 
cept in  storms ;  let  him  put  on  a  pair  of  leather  breeches  at 
twenty,  and  wear  them  until  forty  without  change  or  ablution ; 
and  over  all  place  a  torn  and  blackened  hat,  and  a  tattered  blan- 
ket begrimed  with  abominations ;  let  him  have  wild  eyes  and 
shining  teeth,  features  pinched  by  famine  into  sharpness,  and 


282 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


breasts  bared  and  browned ;   combine  all  these  in  your  imagina- 
tion, and  you  have  a  recipe  for  a  Mexican  lepero." 

In  fine,  the  lepero  is  the  most 
worthless  kind  of  proletarian,  a 
beggar  whom  no  one  can  escape 
from,  and  whom  no  one  can  in- 
timidate, Cortes  mentions  the 
swarms  of  beggars  that  existed 
in  the  Aztec  capital  in  his  time ; 
they  are  also  spoken  of  by  Hum- 
boldt; they  were  the  terror  and 
disgust  of  every  viceroy,  except 
Revillagigedo,  who,  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  last  century,  success- 
fully dealt  with  them.  In  the 
revolutionary  period  they  com- 
mitted unheard  of  atrocities,  and 
upon  the  entry  of  the  American 
troops  into  Mexico  it  was  the 
leperos  who,  let  loose  from  the 
jails,  murdered  and  pillaged  friend 
and  foe  alike.  To-day  we  find 
them  on  every  street  and  corner, 
curled  up  in  the  portals  of  the 
churches,  sleeping  at  noon  in  the 
shade  of  every  sanctuary.  It  is 
on  feast  days  that  the  lepero  par- 
ticularly shines,  as  witness  this 
portraiture  by  the  clever  Sarto- 
rius :  — 

"  The  lepero  has  actually  spent 
a  Ttiedio  (six  cents)  in  order  to 
convert  the  crusts  of  dirt,  which 
had  stood   in  bold   relief  on  his 

face,  neck,  and  hands,  into  the  natural  brown Many  of 

them  are  duly  married,  but  the  majority  of  them  certainly  not. 
They  feel,  however,  the  necessity  of  sharing  their  lot  with  a  gen- 


INDIAN     SERVANT. 


THE   MEXICANS   AT   HOME.  283 

tier  being,  and  surely  this  may  be  achieved,  as  there  are  plenty 
of  damsels  of  this  class,  who,  like  the  male  lepero,  are  enam- 
ored of  freedom.     Without  the  blessing  of  the  priest,  they  live 

perhaps   happier  than  with  it No   popular   festival,  no 

church  consecration,  no  marriage,  takes  place  in  the  suburbs, 
without  some  of  the  leperos  wounding  or  killing  each  other.  No 
one  interferes  as  the  fight  goes  on,  each  with  a  knife  in  one 
hand  and  a  cloak  wrapped  about  the  other,  until  one  falls,  and 

they  all  disperse,  leaving  him  with  his  weeping  mistress 

These  proletarians  consist  almost  exclusively  of  Mestizos,  —  the 
Indians,  poor  as  they  seem  to  be,  are  not  regarded  as  such,  — 
their  number  mainly  recruited  from  illegitimate  children." 

As  to  stealing,  the  lepero  is  a  thief  from  his  mother's  arms.  It 
is  a  fact,  and  I  state  it  as  confirmed  to  me  by  the  chief  of  police, 
that  nine  out  of  every  ten  of  the  boys  and  men  found  in  the 
streets  of  Mexico  peddling  papers  or  lottery  tickets,  or  soliciting 
light  employment  generally,  are  thieves  and  pickpockets,  and 
only  approach  you  on  the  lookout  for  an  opportunity  to  plunder 
you.  So  numerous  are  they  that  the  police  cannot  distinguish 
the  bad  ones,  as  in  the  United  States  and  in  European  cities,  but 
class  them  all  as  capable  of  any  crime. 

The  pawnbrokers  are  the  great  receivers  of  stolen  goods  in 
this  country ;  the  so-called  empefios  are  pawn-shops.  Washer- 
women of  the  lepero  class  pawn  the  clothes  of  unsuspecting  and 
trusting  Americans  when  given  them  to  be  washed,  and  more 
than  one  engineer  has  had  to  visit  some  empeho  and  pay  down 
the  cash  for  garments  that  were  already  his  to  get  them  out 
of  pawn.  Either  one  by  one,  or  all  at  a  time,  these  garments 
are  gathered  into  the  maw  of  the  Mexican  "  uncle." 

Along  the  line  of  the  great  Mexican  Railroad,  from  Vera  Cruz 
to  the  city  of  Mexico,  nothing  is  left  outside  after  dark,  —  nothing 
that  the  strength  of  two  men  can  lift.  Even  the  car-couplings 
are  taken  inside  the  station  and  locked  up.  This  road  once 
introduced  air-brakes  on  their  cars,  but  the  workmen  punched 
holes  in  the  pipes  and  stole  the  tubing ;  so  they  were  taken  off. 
On  the  National  road,  and  d,oubtless  on  all  others  also,  they  stole 
the  bolts  that  fastened  the  rails  to  the  ties,  until  they  were  finally 


284  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

riveted  on.  One  of  a  gang  of  workmen  undertook  to  steal  the 
cap  off  a  cartridge  of  dynamite,  with  the  result  that  he  and 
several  others  went  to  their  reward. 

Brantz  Mayer  relates  a  good  story  of  an  Englishman,  who, 
while  walking  one  of  the  principal  streets  of  Mexico,  felt  his  hat 
lifted  gently  from  his  head,  and  looked  upward  just  in  time  to 
see  it  sailing  aloft,  suspended  by  a  hook  to  a  line  which  the 
sagacious  lepero  had  let  down  from  a  lofty  window.  He  also 
relates  that  some  years  ago  three  Mexicans  stopped  another,  in 
broad  daylight,  and  took  away  his  cloak.  "  His  cloak  gone, 
he  naturally  imagined  that  the  robbers  had  no  further  use  for 
him,  and  attempted  to  depart.  The  vagabonds,  however,  told 
him  to  remain  patiently  where  he  was,  and  he  would  find  the 
result  more  agreeable  than  he  expected.  In  the  course  of  fif- 
teen minutes  their  accomplice  returned,  and,  politely  bowing, 
handed  the  gentleman  2, pawnbroker  s  ticket.  '  We  wanted  thirty 
dollars,  not  the  cloak,'  said  the  villain  ;  '  here  is  a  ticket,  with 
which  you  may  redeem  it  for  that  sum  ;  and  as  the  cloak  of  such 
a  caballero  is  unquestionably  worth  at  least  a  hundred  dollars, 
you  may  consider  yourself  as  having  made  seventy  by  the  trans- 
action.     Vaya  con  Dios  !'  " 

While  I  was  in  Mexico,  the  following  incident  was  related  to 
me,  among  others,  illustrating  the  total  depravity  of  the  lepero. 
A  good  missionary  had  taken  in  charge  a  young  man  who 
showed  evidences  of  conversion,  and  he  was  installed  as  janitor 
of  the  chapel.  I  suppose  that  (if  missionaries  ever  do  such 
things)  this  good  man  would  have  sworn  by  this  janitor.  While 
this  converted  Mexican  was  in  charge  an  organ  arrived ;  a  day 
was  fixed  for  the  exhibition  of  this  instrument,  and  the  heart  of 
the  missionary  warmed  with  pleasure  at  the  thought  of  feasting 
the  ears  of  his  friends.  The  evening  arrived  for  the  exhibition, 
the  friends  arrived,  but  when  the  curtain  was  lifted  that  con- 
cealed the  instrument  of  music  it  was  not  there !  Neither  was 
the  janitor  :   he  had  gone  and  pazvned  the  organ  ! 

As  the  distinction  between  meuni  and  tJium  is  altogether 
ignored  by  the  leperos,  so  also  life  with  them  is  not  regarded 
as  sacred  ;  they  even  look  upon  death  by  shooting  as  honorable, 


THE   MEXICANS   AT   HOME. 


285 


and  rather  court  it  than  otherwise.  It  perhaps  comes  of  such 
perfect  famiharity  with  fire-arms.  Every  lepero  of  distinction 
carries  a  revolver.  Beg,  borrow,  or  steal,  a  pistol  he  must  and 
will  have,  and  carry  it  in  as  exposed  a  place  as  possible.  Should 
he  arrive  at  the  dignity  of  owning  a  horse, 
—  though  this  is  extremely  improbable, — 
the  lepero  becomes  a  most  consummate 
fop,  not  only  in  regard  to  his  horse,  but  to 
his  equipments.  He  may  parade  himself 
with  an  incrustation  on  his  skin  of  seven 
years'  dirt,  and  with  a  shirt  that  has  sur- 
vived six  months'  continuous  wear,  but  he 
will  invariably  carry  a  large  nickel-plated 
revolver  hanging  at  his  side,  and  showing 
half  its  length  of  barrel  below  his  jacket. 
To  the  butt  of  this  revolver  he  will  gen- 
erally have  a  cord  and  tassel,  or  a  steel 
or  nickel-plated  chain  attached.  If  he  is 
on  horseback,  he  will  have  jingling  bits, 
clanking  sabre,  and  a  saddle  shining  with 
silver  ornaments ;  but  he  will  never  be 
without  carbine  or  revolver.  The  result 
of  all. this  display  of  fire-arms  is,  that  they 
are  perfectly  familiar  with  weapons  in   a 

general  way,  and  think  no  more  of  pointing  a  pistol  at  a  man 
than  at  a  post.  It  has  almost  superseded  the  knife,  though  that 
peculiarly  Spanish  weapon  is  not  infrequently  used. 

It  is  a  pleasure  to  me  to  be  able  to  state  that  the  present 
government  has  taken  energetic  measures  looking  towards  a 
gradual  reformation,  if  possible,  of  this  worst  portion  of  the 
criminal  class,  and  the  beneficial  bullet  has  disposed  of  many 
of  those  who  indulged  in  the  pastime  of  the  highwayman. 

Two  honest  men  next  claim  our  attention,  and  then  I  have 
done  with  the  people,  except  in  genre,  as  we  may  meet  them 
casually  on  the  street,  or  in  our  travels.  These  are  the  police- 
man and  the  water-carrier,  —  the  aguador.  You  meet  the  former 
on  every  corner  and  in  every  street,  in  times  of  peace ;   but  I 


A    LEPERO. 


286 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


have  noticed  here  the  same  phenomenon  that  I  have  also  ob- 
served  in  Northern  cities ;   namely,  that  when  you   really  need 


one  of  these  policemen,  when  there  is  any  danger  near,  there 
is   not  one  within   a  radius  of  half  a  mile.     As  a  body,   the 


THE   MEXICANS   AT   HOME.  287 

policemen  are  efficient  and  well  drilled,  courteous  and  affable. 
At  night,  the  policeman  is  furnished  with  a  lantern,  which  he 
places  exactly  in  the  centre  of  the  street,  while  he  sits  in  a  door- 
way on  the  opposite  corner,  and  snoozes  at  intervals  in  his  sarape, 
or  blanket-shawl.  At  certain  periods  he  disturbs  the  nocturnal 
quiet  with  ear-piercing  whistles ;  in  the  smaller  cities  and  pro- 
vincial towns,  he  cries  the  time  of  night,  always  ending  up  with 
"  Tiempo  sere7io,"  or,  "  All  serene."  From  this  the  mischievous 
Mexican  youth  have  nicknamed  him  the  Sermo,  although  his 
trim  appearance  now,  clad  in  neat  uniform,  is  in  great  contrast  to 
the  ancient  watchmen,  who  first  acquired,  and  bore  with  serenity, 
this  appellation. 

But  commend  to  me  the  honest  aguador;  who,  with  his 
burden  of  earthen  jars,  his  leathern  armor  and  quaint  ways,  is 
the  most  interesting  individual  of  the  Mexican  street.  All  the 
water  of  the  city  being  brought  over  aqueducts,  it  is  only  ob- 
tainable at  the  fountains,  and  the  aguador  thus  becomes  the 
most  important  personage  of  the  household ;  and  as  he  is  the 
bearer  of  gossip  and  news,  he  is  always  most  welcome. 

Society  in  Mexico  differs  little  from  society  in  Spain,  or  in 
Cuba,  or  other  Spanish-speaking  country,  so  that  to  describe  it 
would  be  an  unnecessary  task.  There  is  one  phase  of  it,  how- 
ever, that  has  reached  a  development  not  surpassed  either  in  the 
mother  country  or  the  Gem  of  the  Antilles.  I  allude  to  court- 
ship, or  perhaps  it  may  be  merely  flirtation.  From  my  secure 
post  of  observation  on  the  azotea  of  my  boarding-house,  I  often 
noticed  a  haggard  and  emaciated  young  man,  pacing  the  side- 
walk in  front  of  the  next  house.  Seeing  him  day  after  day,  I 
inquired  the  reason  of  his  perambulations  in  that  particular 
spot,  and  was  informed  that  he  was  "  playing  the  bear  " ;  or,  in 
other  words,  paying  his  attentions  to  the  fair  senorita  in  the 
balcony  above.  Hacer  el  oso  is  the  Mexican  for  this  idiotic 
performance,  or  "  to  play  the  bear,"  —  from  the  uneasy  walking 
to  and  fro  in  one  spot,  like  a  bear  in  a  cage.  In  his  hand  the 
imitator  of  the  bear  carries  either  a  cigar  or  cigarette,  with 
which  he  conducts  a  correspondence  with  his  inamorata,  she 
replying  through  the  medium  of  her  fan  or  handkerchief.     I 


288  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

was  often  told  that  some  of  these  insensate  creatures  have  been 
known  to  play  the  bear  for  at  least  seven  years,  and  after  all 
did  not  succeed  in  capturing  the  fair  ones  who  had  caused  them 
to  appear  so  ridiculous  in  the  eyes  of  men. 

We  have  inspected  the  Mexicans  in  detail,  let  us  now  look  at 
them  as  a  whole,  and  possibly  homogeneous  race.  Says  an 
English  author :  "  To  give  a  brief  charac- 
terization of  the  people  of  any  country  is 
always  difficult.  Especially  is  this  a  diffi- 
cult task  when  the  Mexican  population  has 
to  be  described.  The  race  is  heterogene- 
ous, and  what  may  be  true  of  one  part  of 
the  country  may  be  utterly  untrue  regard- 
ing  that    of    another   section One 

traveller  represents  the  Mexicans  as  a  fine 
race,  possessing  all  the  virtues  of  the  rest 
of    mankind,    and    some    peculiarly    their 

EL    AGUADOR.  „    .  ...  ,,  , 

own.      Others  will   assure   the    reader,   on 

(From  a  Wax  Figure.) 

their  word  of  honor,  that  they  have  searched 
the  vocabularies  of  the  language  in  which  they  write,  without 
being  able  to  pick  out  a  series  of  adjectives  strong  enough  to 
express  the  utter  turpitude  of  these  degenerate  descendants  of  a 
degenerate  race." 

That  this  is  strictly  true,  let  me  show  by  inserting  some  ex- 
tracts, —  first,  from  the  book  of  the  English  traveller,  Ruxton : 
"  The  Mexicans,  as  a  people,  rank  decidedly  low  in  the  scale 
of  humanity.  They  are  deficient  in  moral  as  well  as  physical 
organization ;  they  are  treacherous,  cunning,  indolent  and  with- 
out energy,  and  cowardly  by  nature.  Inherent,  instinctive  cow- 
ardice is  rarely  met  with  in  any  race  of  men,  yet  I  affirm  that  in 
this  instance  it  certainly  exists,  and  is  most  conspicuous ;  they 
possess  at  the  same  time  that  amount  of  brutish  indifference 
to  death  which  can  be  turned  to  good  account  in  soldiers,  and  I 
believe  that,  if  properly  led,  the  Mexican  should  on  this  account 
behave  tolerably  well  in  the  field,  but  no  more  than  tolerably." 

A  German  traveller,  Geiger,  has  a  mild  fling  at  the  Mexi- 
can, as  follows :  "  The  Mexicans  prefer  the  French  to  all  other 


THE   MEXICANS   AT    HOME. 


289 


nationalities;  it  is  an  old  liking,  which  the  late  war  has  not 
destroyed,  and  hardly  even  diminished.  The  reasons  for  this  are 
many.  There  exists  a  certain  similarity  of  character  between 
them ;  they  have  been  reared  in  the  same  religion ;  and  last,  but 
not  least,  the  gushing,  ceremonious  politeness  of  the  French- 
man fascinates  the  Mexican,  whose  vanity  is  easily  tickled  by 
these  demonstrative  though  insincere  formalities.  When  ques- 
tioned as  to  their  fondness  for  the  French,  Mexicans  will  tell 
you  repeatedly  that  tin  Frances  tiene  educacion,  which  by  no 
means  implies  that  a  Frenchman  is  educated,  for  in  that  respect 
they  and  Mexicans  rank  much  alike,  but  that  the  Gaul  knows 
how  to  embrace  a  la  Mexicana,  i.  e.  to  fall  into  his  friend's  arms 
as  if  he  were  about  to  wrestle  with  him,  and  actively  pat  him 
on  the  back  with  the  right  hand  of  affectionate  acquaintance." 

Now  in  these  two  extracts  we  see  illustrated  the  previous 
statement  regarding  the  heterogeneousness  of  the  population, 
since,  although  both  speak  of  the  Mexican,  each  describes  a 
radically  different  type ;  the  first  evidently  the  Indian,  the  lat- 
ter the  Creole  or  Mestizo  of  the  upper  ranks.  One  should  be 
careful  to  discriminate  between  the  various  classes  of  people. 
I  have  had  my  attention  called  to  the  fact,  that  those  who  have 
known  the  Mexicans  longest  speak  of  them  in  the  highest  terms. 
Of  such  well-informed  observers  was  Brantz  Mayer,  author  of 
several  books  on  Mexico.  He  says:  "I  think  it  exceedingly 
reasonable  that  the  Mexicans  should  be  shy  of  foreigners.  They 
have  been  educated  in  the  strict  habits  of  the  Catholic  creed  ;  the 
customs  of  the  country  are  different  from  others ;  the  strangers 
who  visit  them  are  engaged  in  the  eager  contests  of  commercial 
strife ;  and  besides,  being  of  different  religion  and  language, 
they  are  chiefly  from  those  Northern  nations  whose  tastes  and 
feelings  have  nothing  kindred  with  the  impulsive  dispositions  of 
the  ardent  South.  In  addition  to  the  selfish  spirit  of  gain  that 
pervades  the  intercourse  of  these  visitors,  and  gives  them  no 
character  of  permanency,  or  sympathy  with  the  country,  they 
have  been  accustomed  to  look  down  on  the  Mexicans  with  con- 
tempt for  their  obsolete  habits,  without  reflecting  that  they  are 
not  justly  censurable  for  traditional  usages,  which  they  had  no 

19 


290  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

opportunity  of  improving  by  comparison  with  the  progress  of 
civilization  among  other  nations.  Yet,  treating  these  people 
with  the  frankness  of  a  person  accustomed  to  find  himself  at 
home  wherever  he  goes,  avoiding  the  egotism  of  natural  preju- 
dices, and  meeting  them  in  a  spirit  of  benevolence,  I  have 
ever  found  them  kind,  gentle,  hospitable,  intelligent,  benevolent, 
brave.     I  speak,  however,  of  the  Juste  niilieti  of  society,  wherein 

reside  the  virtue    and    intellect    of   a    country In    fact, 

regard  them  in  any  way,  and  they  will  be  found  to  possess  the 
elements  of  a  fine  people,  who  want  but  peace  and  the  stim- 
ulus of  foreign  emulation  to  bring  them  forward  among  the 
nations  of  the  earth  with  great  distinction." 

This  prediction,  that  the  Mexican  people  needed  but  "  peace 
and  the  stimulus  of  foreign  emulation  "  to  bring  out  their  latent 
energies,  is  being  realized.  Mexico  is  taking  a  distinguished 
stand  among  nations,  from  which  it  will  soon  become  impossible 
for  her  to  recede.  I  myself,  having  broken  bread  and  eaten  salt 
with  almost  every  class  in  Mexico,  can  truthfully  subscribe  to 
the  sentiments  expressed  by  the  last-quoted  author,  and  do  so 
unhesitatingly.  There  is  more  truth  in  the  Mexican's  protesta- 
tions of  good  will  than  strangers  are  ready  to  credit ;  he  is  often 
so  effusive  that  they  lay  upon  him  the  charge  of  insincerity. 
It  may  be  that  he  is  insincere,  that  he  means  utterly  nothing 
when  he  repeats  the  ever-ready  phrase,  Mi  casa  estd  imiy  a  sii 
disposicion,  sefior, —  "My  house,  and  all  it  contains,  is  very 
much  at  your  disposal,  sir";  but  he  as  often  means  it  as  not, 
as  I  have  frequently  found,  when,  far  from  town  or  hotel, 
night  has  overtaken  me  near  some  rancho  or  hacienda,  and  I 
have  received  the  warmest  of  welcomes  from  its  hospitable 
proprietor. 


XV. 


FEASTS  AND   FESTIVALS.  —  MEXICAN   MISSIONS. 

ni^RAS  la  cms  estd  el  Diablo,  "The  Devil  lurks  behind  the 
■^      cross,"  says  the  Spanish  proverb.     Nowhere  is  this  more 
true  than  in  Mexico.     Indeed,  his  Satanic  Majesty  rarely  takes 
the  trouble  to  conceal  himself,  but  openly  thrusts  his  impudent 
face  into  every  gathering  of  a  religious  nature  that  takes  place. 
The  religion  of  the  present  population  of  Mexico  is  extremely 
anomalous ;   though  nominally  Catholics,  the  Indians  are  mainly 
pagans,    while    the   Mestizos   and    the    Creoles    have    little    but 
the  outward  semblance.     Time,  as  usual,  wreaks  its  revenges. 
We  know  in  what  manner  the   religion  of  the  Spaniards  was 
imposed  upon  the  conquered  Indians,  —  at  the  point  of  the 
sword,  by  the  fire  and  rack.     We  know  that  they  were  "  con- 
verted "  to  the  new  faith  by  the  thousand  at  a  time,  and  were 
reckoned  good  Christians  as  soon  as  baptized.    We  do  not  won- 
der, then,  that   after    three    hundred   years  of  trial    the  native 
population  should  tacitly  agree  to   the   overthrow  of  priestly 
power  and  return  to  their  idols,  whom  they  have  so  long  secretly 
cherished.     Yet  it  seems  strange  to  us  that  the  successors  of 
Juarez  and  Gomez  Farrias,  and  those  of  their  associates  who 
are  responsible  for  the  downfall  of  the  Church,  should  be  al- 
lowed peacefully  to  rule  as  they  do  to-day.      To  be  sure,  the 
Church  is  exhausted ;   its  final  struggle  was  at  the  time  of  Maxi- 
milian, and  when  he  fell,  and  its  treasures  were  appropriated  to 
the  use  of  the  nation,  it  lost  more  than  gold,  —  it  lost  xX.?,  prestige. 
Yes,  the  prestige  of  the  Church  is  departed,  never  perhaps  to  re- 
turn ;   its  officers  no  longer  command  the  popular  respect,  and 
its  sanctuaries  are  no  longer  sacred  from  the  touch  of  impious 
hands.     Yet  the  priests  of  to-day  are  no  worse  than  before,  so 


292  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

far  as  their  morals  and  faith  are  concerned ;  indeed,  I  beheve 
they  are  more  worthy  of  respect  than  formerly,  —  that  their  trials 
have  purified  them,  and  that  they  are  capable,  perhaps  desirous, 
of  wheeling  to  the  right  about,  and  joining  the  march  of  pro- 
gress, leaving  behind  them  the  dead  and  corrupt  superstitions 
that  wrecked  them  and  their  hopes. 

Stripped  of  their  power  by  the  enactments  of  1857,  the  num- 
ber of  churches  reduced  to  just  enough  to  provide  for  the  actual 
needs  of  the  people,  forbidden  themselves  to  wear  their  priestly 
robes  in  the  street,  or  to  fill  the  air  with  the  perpetual  clamor  of 
clanging  bells,  the  clergy  of  Mexico  have  held  a  very  painful 
position.  Although  we  recognize  the  justness  and  necessity  of 
the  laws  of  reform,  yet  we  cannot  but  pity  those  men  in  holy 
ofiice  when  the  thunderbolt  fell,  who  now  suffer  for  the  sins  of 
their  predecessors. 

But  though  religious  processions  through  the  street  are  pro- 
hibited in  Mexico,  the  people  do  not  fail  to  celebrate  the  feast 
days  and  the  festivals.  They  respect  not  the  Sabbath,  nor  the 
priest,  but  they  have  a  sort  of  reverence  for  the  saints.  Of  the 
three  hundred  and  sixty-five  saints  in  the  Mexican  calendar, 
not  all,  fortunately,  are  entitled  to  the  honor  of  a  holiday ;  but 
many  are,  —  enough  seriously  to  interfere  with  business,  and 
consume  the  earnings  of  the  people. 

I  witnessed  several  such  festivities  while  in  the  country;  but 
none  seemed  to  me  more  grotesque  and  curious  than  that  of 
Good  Friday,  when  a  final  disposition  was  made  of  the  arch- 
traitor  Judas,  against  whom  the  Mexicans  seem  to  have  a 
special  spite  and  wreak  their  vengeance  upon  him  in  a  number 
of  ingenious  ways.  All  day  long  men  are  parading  the  streets 
with  efiigies  of  the  betrayer  hanging  from  poles,  and  hundreds 
are  sold,  especially  to  the  children,  who  blow  up  these  images 
with  a  gusto  and  delight  only  paralleled  by  our  small  boy  on  the 
Fourth  of  July.  Each  image,  made  o{ papier-mache ,  is  filled  with 
explosives,  and  has  a  fuse,  like  a  fire-cracker,  and  is  touched  off 
by  the  juveniles  amid  great  rejoicing.  The  thing  culminates  at 
evening,  when  immense  Judases  are  hung  up  in  prominent  places, 
generally  at  the  intersection  of  the  streets,  and  exploded  in  the 


FEASTS   AND    FESTIVALS. 


293 


presence  of  delighted  crowds.  Then,  also,  the  bells  in  the  towers 
ring  out  their  chorus  of  rejoicing,  and  a  peculiar  apparatus,  also 
in  the  cathedral  tower,  makes  a  loud,  crackling  noise,  which  the 
crowds  understand  well  to  mean  the  breaking  of  the  bones  of  the 
thieves  on  the  cross. 


THE   LITTLE   GODS. 


Travellers  of  forty  years  ago  tell  us  of  the  murdering  of  men 
guilty  of  a  failure  to  bend  the  knee  at  the  approach  of  the 
Host,  when  passing  through  the  street  attended  by  the  priests ; 
but  such  a  thing  is  no  longer  possible.  I  was  surprised  one  day, 
on  crossing  the  Plaza,  at  seeing  everybody  drop  down  upon 
their  knees,  and    received  some  very  black  looks  from   some 


294  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

leperos  because  I  did  not  do  the  same.  As  I  turned,  there 
swept  by  a  coach  drawn  by  four  horses,  containing  the  holy 
symbol,  which  the  majority  of  the  people  yet  respect,  if  they 
do  not  reverence. 

Now,  not  all  the  feasts  and  festivals  of  Mexico  are  of  Romish 
origin.  Upon  the  remains  of  Aztec  idolatry,  says  a  writer,  now 
dead,  have  been  engrafted  the  baser  ceremonies  of  the  Romish 
Church.  Let  us  go  back  to  the  pre-Spanish  days,  when  the  em- 
pire of  Montezuma  was  in  the  height  of  its  prosperity.  Eighteen 
months  of  twenty  days  each  composed  the  ancient  Mexican  year, 
which  commenced  in  February,  and  every  month  had  its  festival. 
That  of  February  was  in  honor  of  Tlaloc,  god  of  storms;  in  March 
followed  the  cruel  sacrifice  to  Xipe,  god  of  the  goldsmiths,  and  a 
second  to  Tlaloc,  of  children,  who  were  drowned  to  insure  abun- 
dant rains.  In  April,  the  flower-merchants  offered  garlands  to 
Coatlicue,  the  Mexican  Flora,  and  later  to  Centeotl,  goddess  of 
maize.  On  the  fifth  month  fell  the  solemn  festival  in  honor  of 
Tezcatlipoca,  the  chief  deity,  when  the  bravest  and  handsomest 
of  the  prisoners  in  Aztec  possession  were  sacrificed.  In  the 
same  month  occurred  the  feast  of  Huitzilopochtli,  the  Mexican 
war-god,  during  which  another  faultless  victim  was  offered  up. 
Tlaloc  had  a  third  and  last  festival  in  June,  and  the  goddess  of 
salt,  Huixtocihuatl,  claimed  a  female  victim,  when  also  the  popu- 
lace went  hunting  in  the  mountains  and  upon  the  lakes.  In  July 
a  second  feast  to  Centeotl,  the  Mexican  Ceres,  came  to  pass,  when 
another  female  was  sacrificed  at  the  close  of  the  day's  rejoi- 
cings, just  as  the  sun  went  down  behind  the  purple  hills.  Then 
came  the  god  of  trade,  and  the  god  of  fire,  Xiuteuctli,  and  on 
the  eleventh  month  the  festival  of  Teteoinan,  "  mother  of  all  the 
gods,"  when  a  female  prisoner  was  beheaded,  then  flayed,  and  the 
bloody  trophy  presented  to  the  god  of  war.  In  October  came 
the  great  feast  of  Teotleco,  "  the  coming  of  the  gods,"  when  the 
priests  scattered  maize  meal  in  front  of  the  sanctuary  and  watched 
for  the  sacred  footprints  of  the  principal  deity.  In  November, 
the  goddess  of  the  chase,  Mixcoatl,  was  honored,  and  then  fol- 
lowed another  great  feast  to  the  war-god  and  his  brother,  on  the 
last  of  December.     In  the  seventeenth  month  the  god  of  hell, 


FEASTS   AND    FESTIVALS. 


295 


Mictlanteuctli,  claimed  a  nocturnal  sacrifice,  and  the  god  of  the 
merchants  a  second  feast.  The  horrid  circle  of  sacrifices  was 
completed  on  the  ist  of  February,  when  all  the  fires  of  the  city- 
were  extinguished,  and  kindled 
anew  from  the  flame  on  the  altar 
of  the  god  of  fire.  On  the  last 
of  February  took  place  the  most 
impressive  of  all  the  festivals, 
that  of  the  Teoxihuitl,  or  "  di- 
vine years,"  at  the  beginning 
of  the  Aztec  cycle,  which  fell 
due  only  once  in  a  century  (fifty- 
two  years)  and  was  celebrated 
with  great  solemnity. 

However  much  this  list  of  the 
feasts  and  festivals  of  the  ancient 
Mexicans  is  indebted  for  its 
length  to  the  imagination  of  the 
Spanish  chroniclers,  it  will  at 
least  be  evident  that  these  peo- 
ple had  quite  sufficient  for  all 
intents  and  purposes  before  the 

imposition  upon  them  of  those  pertaining  to  the  Roman  Cath- 
olic Church.  The  Spanish  clergy  labored  many  years  to  abol- 
ish the  remembrance  of  them,  and  to  substitute  their  own  less 
barbarous  fasts,  feasts,  and  symbols.  Although  the  Indian  long 
clung  to  his  cherished  idols,  he  finally  transferred  his  allegiance 
from  the  native  to  the  foreign  gods,  and  entered  with  great 
gusto  into  the  celebrations  and  processions  which  the  clergy 
got  up  for  his  edification.  These  at  last  came  to  be  such  an 
intolerable  nuisance  that  government  abolished  them,  so  far  as 
processions  were  concerned,  and  now,  except  in  certain  iso- 
lated districts,  no  religious  pageant  is  allowed  to  parade  the 
streets. 

Besides  the  feast-days  pertaining  to  the  Romish  calendar,  the 
following  are  the  legalized  holidays,  or  memorials,  on  which  the 
national  flag  is  displayed  :  — 


MOTHER  OF  THE  GODS. 


296  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

Jan.  23,  King  of  Spain;  Feb.  5,  anniversary  of  the  Constitu- 
tion of  '57;  Feb.  22,  Washington's  birthday;  March  14,  King 
of  Italy;  March  21,  birthday  of  Juarez;  22,  of  Emperor  of 
Germany;  April  i,  opening  of  Congress;  May  5  {Cmco  de 
Mayo),  victory  at  Puebla,  over  the  French  ;  May  8,  birthday  of 
Hidalgo;  May  15,  taking  of  Queretaro  ;  31,  closing  of  Congress; 
June  I,  Italy;  June  8,  birthday  of  President  of  the  Republic 
(Gonzalez);  21,  taking  of  the  city  of  Mexico,  1867;  July  4, 
Independence  of  the  United  States ;  9,  of  the  Argentine  Repub- 
hc;  14,  storming  of  the  Bastile ;  July  18,  death  of  Juarez ;  20, 
Independence  of  United  States  of  Colombia;  28,  of  Peru; 
30,  death  of  Hidalgo;  Sept.  15,  Independence  of  Guatemala; 
15  and  16,  Independence  of  Mexico  {Grito  de  Dolores);  16, 
opening  of  the  Senate;  Nov.  15,  birthday  of  King  of  Belgium; 
Dec.  15,  close  of  the  Senate. 

But  to  return  to  our  original  question,  What  is  the  present 
religious  status  of  the  Mexican  Indian  to-day?  Practically, 
says  a  writer  who  studied  them  long  and  thoroughly,  "  there 
is  not  much  difference  between  the  old  heathenism  and  the 
new  Christianity.  We  may  put  the  dogmas  out  of  the  ques- 
tion. They  hear  them,  and  believe  in  them  devoutly,  and  do 
not  understand  them  in  the  least.  They  receive  the  Immacu- 
late Conception,  as  they  have  received  many  mysteries  before 
it;  and  are  not  a  little  delighted  to  have  a  new  occasion  for 
decorating  themselves  and  their  churches  with  flowers,  marching 
in  processions,  dancing,  beating  drums,  and  letting  off  rockets 
by  daylight,  as  their  manner  is.  The  real  essence  of  both  reli- 
gions is  the  same  to  them ;  they  had  gods  to  whom  they  built 
temples,  and  in  whose  honor  they  gave  offerings,  maintained 
priests,  and  danced,  —  much  as  they  do  now,  —  that  their  divin- 
ities might  be  favorable  to  them  and  give  them  good  crops  and 
success  in  their  enterprises.  This  is  pretty  much  what  their 
Christianity  consists  of  As  a  moral  influence,  working  upon 
the  character  of  the  people,  it  seems  scarcely  to  have  had  the 
slightest  effect,  except  in  causing  them  to  leave  off  human  sac- 
rifices, which  were  probably  not  an  original  feature  of  their 
worship,  but  were  introduced  at  a  comparatively  late  time,  and 


MEXICAN    MISSIONS.  297 

had  already  been  abolished  by  one  of  the  kings  of  the  valley  of 
Mexico." 

Without  denying  that  the  Catholic  Church  has  the  ability 
to  institute  a  reform,  and  has  within  its  folds  upright  and  pure- 
minded  men  enough  among  its  clergy  to  carry  it  out,  yet  up  to 
the  present  time  it  has  not  chosen  so  to  do.  Upon  the  insti- 
tution of  the  Laws  of  Reform  the  people  were  released  from 
the  grasp  of  the  ecclesiastical  courts,  and  the  vast  majority, 
though  nominally  Catholics,  were  in  danger  of  lapsing  into  infi- 
delity. It  is  not  my  wish  to  criticise  or  condemn,  for  I  look 
upon  the  Church  of  Mexico  of  to-day  as  the  victim,  to  a  great 
extent,  of  the  past,  chained  and  shackled  by  the  enactments 
and  superstitious  ignorance  of  its  founders.  But  if  that  Church 
ever  cherished  the  wish  to  elevate  and  regenerate  itself  and  its 
worshippers,  it  neglected  the  occasion  when,  the  French  usurp- 
ers banished  and  internal  rebellions  quelled,  peace  finally  settled 
down  upon  the  distracted  country.  Then  was  the  golden  oppor- 
tunity, which,  had  it  been  embraced,  would  have  carried  Mexico 
farther  onward  towards  its  goal  in  the  path  of  progress  and 
enlightenment  than  electricity  or  steam. 

The  three  great  civilizing  forces  of  Mexico,  the  railroads,  tele- 
graphs, and  an  active  religion,  are  extraneous,  —  from  without 
the  borders  of  the  country.  God  and  Liberty,  Dios  y  Liber- 
tad,  was  the  watchword  of  the  republic  in  those  times  that 
tried  the  souls  of  Mexico's  bravest  sons ;  but  liberty  to  worship 
God,  except  after  the  manner  prescribed  by  the  mother  Church, 
was  not  for  a  moment  entertained. 

The  first  copies  of  the  Scriptures,^  it  is  said,  entered  Mexico 
with  the  invading  American  army,  in   1846;   but  the  example  of 

1  The  total  number  of  the  Scriptures  circulated  in  Mexico  up  to  December  31,  1882, 
was,  as  near  as  can  be  calculated,  252,898  copies.  The  British  and  Foreign  Bible 
Society  had  several  agents  in  Mexico  and  a  central  depository  in  the  capital,  until  the 
year  1879,  when  the  remaining  stock  was  purchased  by  the  American  Bible  Society, 
which  has  since  carried  on  the  work  alone.  At  present,  the  central  depository 
and  office  of  the  agency  of  the  American  Bible  Society  is  situated  in  Calle  de  Var- 
gara,  Mexico  City,  and  the  agent  in  charge  is  H.  P.  Hamilton.  The  open  Bibles  in 
the  show  windows  are  read  by  many  people,  and  supplies  are  being  constantly  sent 
out  to  the  colporteurs  and  to  sub-agencies  in  all  parts  of  the  republic. 


298 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


our  heroes  of  that  war,  —  their  courage,  high  devotion  to  duty, 
the  respect  for  the  rights  of,  and  their  forbearance  towards,  the 
conquered   people,  —  alone   caused  many  Catholics  to  become 

sceptics.  The  firm  stand  of  the 
patriot  President,  Juarez,  encour- 
aged the  friends  of  mission  work 
in  this  country.  In  September, 
1862,  we  find  the  Rev.  James 
Hickey,  a  Baptist  minister,  laboring 
in  Matamoras  as  an  independent 
missionary,  and  in  the  Novem- 
ber following  in  Monterey,  the 
northern  capital,  preaching  from 
house  to  house  and  distributing 
Bibles.  On  the  ist  of  March,  1863, 
he  delivered  the  first  Protestant  dis- 
course to  the  public  which  was 
ever  heard  in  Monterey,  and  in  that 
year  received  as  an  assistant,  who 
eventually  became  his  successor, 
the  Rev.  Thomas  M.  Westrup,  who 
was  appointed  as  missionary  by  the  American  Baptist  Home 
Mission  Society  of  New  York. 

At  present  there  are  fifteen  Protestant  missions  in  Mexico, 
representing  twelve  Christian  bodies.  These  entered  the  field  in 
the  following  order:  Baptists  (1863),  Church  of  Jesus  (1869), 
Quakers  (1871),  Presbyterians  (1872),  Methodist  Episcopal 
Church  South  (Border  Mission  1872,  Central  Mission  1873), 
English  Independent  Mission  (1872),  Methodist  Episcopal 
(1873),  Southern  Presbyterians  (1874),  Associate  Reformed 
Presbyterians  (1878),  Congregational  (1880),  Independents 
(1882),  and  Southern  Baptists  (1882). 

By  way  of  explanation,  it  should  be  observed  here,  that  Miss 
Rankin,  a  noble  Christian  woman,  who  had  been  laboring  at 
Brownsville  since  1855,  crossed  the  Rio  Grande  about  a  year 
ahead  of  the  Baptists.  She  at  once  began  the  establishment  of 
Christian  schools,  and  soon  after,  by  the  assistance  of  her  own 


A   VENDER   OF   HOLY    RELICS. 


MEXICAN   MISSIONS.  299 

trained  workers,  she  established  several  congregations  in  the 
vicinity  of  Monterey.  She  was  in  fact  like  a  bishop  among  her 
people,  doing  a  thoroughly  good  work.  Later,  her  mission  was 
passed  over  to  the  American  Board  of  Commissioners  for  For- 
eign Missions,  who,  in  turn,  resigned  that  part  of  their  work  to 
the  Presbyterians  about  1875. 

After  a  lengthy  correspondence  with  parties  now  in  the  field, 
we  find  that  the  Baptists  were  the  first  to  enter  Mexico  in  a 
formal  way.  But  we  must  not  fail  clearly  to  state  that  a  most 
valuable  work  of  preparation  was  done  by  the  American  Bible 
and  Tract  Societies,  as  early  as  1847  and  1848.  These  worthy 
bodies  sent  colporteurs  in  the  wake  of  the  American  army, 
who  went  everywhere  "  sowing  the  seed  "  which  Christian 
churches  are  now  gathering. 

Between  the  years  1867  and  1870,  several  of  the  Catholic 
clergy  seceded,  and  in  1871  the  Rev.  H.  C.  Riley,  a  brave  and 
independent  Protestant  Episcopalian,  furnished  with  funds  by 
the  American  and  Foreign  Christian  Union,  and  with  means  of 
his  own,  obtained  a  foothold  in  Mexico  City. 

Then,  in  1872,  the  Presbyterians  sent  missionaries  to  Zaca- 
tecas,  and  the  Congregationalists  but  little  later  followed.  Their 
preacher  in  Ahualulco,  State  of  Jalisco,  the  Rev.  J.  L.  Stephens, 
was  brutally  murdered  by  a  mob,  March  2,  1874,  and  was  thus 
the  first  martyr  to  the  cause  in  Mexico. 

The  Methodists,  through  the  labors  and  visits  of  Bishop 
Haven,  Dr.  Butler,  and  others,  early  secured,  in  1873,  a  portion 
of  the  old  and  vast  convent  of  San  Francisco,  and  firmly  estab- 
lished themselves  in  the  city  of  Mexico,  whence  their  missions 
have  spread  like  a  prairie  fire,  and  they  are  probably  the  most 
numerous  body  of  Protestants  in  Mexico.  Under  the  present 
energetic  guidance  of  the  Rev.  J.  W.  Butler,  a  large-hearted, 
earnest  Christian,  (to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  these  hitherto 
unpublished  statistics,)  their  labors  have  prospered  exceedingly. 
Sunday  and  day  schools  have  been  established  ;  a  printing-press 
is  in  active  operation,  and  an  illustrated  paper,  the  Abogado 
Cristiano,  has  been  put  in  circulation,  as  well  as  an  annual 
{Anuarid),  and  numberless  tracts,  in  the  Spanish  language. 


300 


TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 


The  Methodist  Church  South  has  also  an  able  director  in 
the  person  of  the  Rev.  WilHam  Patterson,  who  has  likewise 
occupied  several  valuable  fields  for  Christian  effort.  The  sta- 
tistics of  the  Presbyterian  missions  have  of  late  been  carefully- 
compiled  ;  their  force  in  the  field  consists  of  eight  in  Mexico 


MISSION    MAP   OF   MEXICO. 


1883. 


City  with  ten  native  helpers,  ten  in  Monterey,  five  in  Zacatecas, 
one  native  preacher  in  San  Luis  Potosi,  and  two  in  Jerez; 
total  membership  of  all  its  churches,  up  to  1883,  7,100. 

The  Methodist  Church  is  now  operating  from  the  following 
centres:  Mexico  City,  Orizaba,  Puebla,  Pachuca,  Miraflores, 
Queretaro,  Guanajuato,  and  Leon.     There  are   17  foreign  mis- 


MEXICAN   MISSIONS.  301 

sionaries  including  wives,  5  ladies  of  the  Woman's  Board,  5 
ordained  and  about  20  other  native  helpers,  850  communi- 
cants, and  over  2,000  probable  adherents,  in  34  congregations. 
There  are  14  Sunday  schools,  with  675  scholars  ;  13  day  schools, 
with  600  scholars;  10  church  edifices,  and  25  other  places  of 
worship.  There  are  $120,000  of  church  property,  and  two 
presses  in  use.  Two  periodicals  are  issued,  the  Illustrated 
Monthly,  having  a  circulation  of  2,500  copies,  and  the  Sunday 
School  paper,  a  circulation  of  1,800  monthly.  The  total  num- 
ber of  pages  issued  in  1882  was  2,470,445. 

The  centres  of  the  Methodist  Church  South  are  Mexico  City, 
Puebla,  Oaxaca,  Toluca,  and  Leon.  They  issue  two  monthly 
papers,  and  are  giving  due  attention  to  educational  work. 

In  1883  the  statistics  of  these  twelve  Christian  Missions,  kindly 
furnished  me  by  Dr.  Butler,  are  as  follows :  — 

Foreign  missionaries,  including  wives 69 

Foreign  female  missionaries  of  Woman's  Boards     .  16 

Native  laborers  ordained 40 

"             "      un-ordained 163 

Congregations 264 

Communicants 135096 

Probable  adherents 27,300 

Sunday  schools 130 

"           '*       scholars 4,654 

Day  schools 82 

Male  pupils i>570 

Female  pupils 1,516 

Church  edifices 45 

Other  places  of  worship 219 

Probable  value  of  church  property 1^462,850 

Presses  in  use 11 

Periodicals  issued 12 

Total  circulation  of  all 14,000 

Pages  of  religious  literature  issued  in  1882  .     .     .      3,570,445 

Theological  students 36 

There  has  been  little  display  of  sectarian  bitterness,  the  differ- 
ent denominations  recognizing  the  importance  of  resolute  mutual 


302  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

endeavor.  In  the  apportionment  of  Mexico  for  most  effectual 
work,  the  northeast,  including  Monterey,  has  been  taken  by  the 
Baptists ;  Chihuahua  and  the  northwest  by  the  Congregational- 
ists ;  the  Presbyterians  are  mainly  in  the  central  States,  and  the 
Methodists  in  the  valley  of  Mexico  and  to  the  south  of  it. 

I  cannot  find  better  words  in  which  to  conclude  this  state- 
ment of  mission  work  than  the  following,  by  the  Rev.  S.  T. 
Wilson. 

"  It  does  not  require  a  long  residence  in  Mexico  to  impress  one  anew 
with  these  truths  :  — 

"  I.  This  is  a  transition  epoch  in  the  history  of  the  country.  A  half- 
century  of  struggle  with  foreign  domination  and  with  ecclesiasticism, 
resulting  in  the  apparently  firm  establishment  of  a  republic  and  the  com- 
plete divorcement  of  Church  and  State,  has  at  last  given  place  to  peace. 
Mexico's  pulse  beats  more  normally  than  ever  before.  Her  energies, 
instead  of  finding  their  vent  in  rebellions,  are  now  devoted  to  arts 
of  peace.  Encouraged  by  this  peace  and  by  the  government,  foreign- 
ers are  investing  their  capital  and  enterprise  in  railroads,  mines,  and 
manufactories.  Steam  and  electricity  render  the  success  of  rebellions 
almost  hopeless.  The  scream  of  the  locomotive  is  breaking  even  the 
profound  quiet  of  the  snow-crowned  mountains.  The  burros  and  carga- 
dores,  Mexico's  traditional  burden-bearers,  look  on  in  wonder  as  their 
occupation  vanishes.  The  electric  light  in  the  Grand  Plaza  of  this  city 
shines  on  excavated  columns  and  sculptures  of  the  old  Aztec  temple,  as 
well  as  on  the  hoary  cathedral  and  deserted  Inquisition  building,  as  if  to 
rebuke  the  deeds  of  darkness  of  the  past.  Just  as  marked  is  the  transi- 
tion in  religious  matters.  The  more  intelligent  liberals,  disgusted  with 
'  The  Church,'  are  naturally  making  their  transit  into  infidelity.  The 
common  classes  are  more  and  more  asserting  their  liberty  of  conscience. 
Mediaeval  bigotry  has  to  struggle  with  modern  liberalism  in  a  constantly 
increasing  number  of  towns.  The  Bible  and  its  religion  are  daily  growing 
in  favor. 

"  2.  Rome  will  not  make  the  right  use  of  this  transition  period.  As 
changeless  as  the  pyramids,  as  remorseless  as  the  grave,  that  Church  re- 
mains the  same.  Mainly  responsible  for  the  continuance  of  the  dark  age 
that  has  so  long  enveloped  Mexico,  she  makes  every  endeavor  to  perpet- 
uate that  darkness.  The  patron  of  slavery,  she  has  bitterly  resisted  every 
step  toward  liberty.     The  direct  cause  of  Mexico's  immorality,  so  incred- 


MEXICAN   MISSIONS.  303 

ible  in  its  extent  and  baseness,  she  would  gladly  bum  all  who  teach  the 
truth.  The  National  Museum  may,  with  reason,  enclose  within  the  same 
walls  the  blood-stained  sacrificial  stone  of  the  Aztec  paganism,  and  two 
skeletons  of  victims  of  the  Inquisition.      Martyr  blood  has  consecrated 

several  churches  in  Mexico 

*'  3.  That  the  necessary  conclusion  is  that  the  opportunities  and  respon- 
sibilities of  the  Mexican  transition  belong  to  Protestantism.  The  door  is 
wide  open." 

The  Mexican  government  guarantees  the  protection  of  all 
religious  denominations,  yet  there  have  been  many  disturbances 
and  frequent  murders.  The  first  u^eek  I  was  in  Mexico  I  met 
two  missionaries  who  had  been  chased  out  of  Queretaro  by  a 
mob  incited  by  the  bishop  of  that  city.  Though  the  govern- 
ment vindicated  its  honor  and  supremacy  by  returning  them 
under  the  protection  of  troops,  yet  on  the  withdrawal  of  the 
latter  they  were  left  in  the  same  danger  as  before. 

A  few  weeks  later,  a  native  missionary  was  set  upon  and 
stabbed  to  death  by  a  mob  of  religious  fanatics,  near  Apizaco, 
on  the  principal  railroad  of  Mexico,  and  nothing  was  done  to 
punish  them.  A  month  later  another  native  preacher  was  shot 
at,  near  the  ancient  city  of  Tezcoco,  and  then  lodged  in  jail 
upon  complaint  of  the  very  men  who  attempted  his  life.  And 
his  accusers?  They  are  pursuing  their  peaceful  vocations 
unmolested,  ready  to  renew  the  fight  whenever  opportunity 
offers. 

It  is  not  in  the  large  cities  that  these  outbreaks  occur,  as  a 
rule,  but  in  remote  settlements  in  the  country,  where  the  people 
yet  blindly  follow  priestly  counsel.  But  year  by  year  Mexico 
is  growing  more  enlightened,  and  newspapers  and  books  are 
increasing  in  circulation  with  great  rapidity.  In  the  republic 
there  are  some  twenty  large  libraries,  containing  in  all  236,000 
volumes,  and  private  libraries  with  from  1,000  to  10,000  vol- 
umes each,  and  collections  of  rare  manuscripts. 

There  were  published,  in  the  year  1874,  168  magazines  and 
pamphlets,  of  which  18  were  scientific,  9  literary,  2  artistical,  26 
religious,  and  118  political.  In  1882  the  newspapers  published 
in  Mexico  numbered  283,  of  which  94  appeared  in  the  capital. 


304  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

They  printed  in  the  aggregate  378,096  copies,  with  a  total  cir- 
culation of  46,778,858  copies.  Of  these,  there  are  two  in  the 
English  language,  "The  Two  Republics,"  owned  and  ably  edited 
by  Mr.  J.  Mastella  Clarke,  and  "  The  Mexican  Financier,"  a 
weekly  bilingual  journal,  founded  by  a  New  York  gentleman, 
and  conducted  by  young  Boston  journalists  of  great  promise 
and  ability. 

Religion  and  politics,  and  sometimes  education,  often  go  hand 
in  hand,  so  it  will  not  seem  a  wide  departure  from  the  subject  to 
mention  that  politicians,  even  statesmen,  are  in  rather  bad  odor 
in  what  is  called  "  society  "  in  Mexico.  And  this  society,  like 
the  blood  of  the  people  composing  it,  is  decidedly  mixed,  al- 
though the  Creoles  and  those  of  Spanish  birth,  and  especially 
those  loyal  to  the  Church,  are  its  leaders.  It  is  not  considered 
a  reproach  to  be  looked  down  upon  by  society,  for  each  grade 
of  this  heterogeneous  people  has  led  it  by  the  nose,  —  even  the 
Indian,  when  Juarez  was  President.  President  Gonzalez  is  said 
to  have  Indian  blood  in  his  veins,  and  Diaz,  the  great  power 
behind  the  throne,  and  which  he  fain  would  constantly  occupy, 
is  likewise  a  Mestizo.  The  politicians,  however,  like  Romero, 
Mariscal,  and  a  small  host  of  other  famous  Mexicans,  comprise 
the  more  advanced  scholars  of  the  country. 


XVI. 

A   DAY   IN   THE   MUSEUMS. 

ONE  need  never  be  at  loss  where  to  go  in  Mexico  for  evi- 
dences of  its  past  civilization,  as  some  object  hoary  with 
antiquity  rears  its  head  at  every  corner.  In  a  portion  of  the 
immense  building  known  as  the  Palace  is  the  Mexican  Museum, 
El  Museo  Nacionaly  into  which  are  gathered  all  the  "finds"  in 
archaeological  fields.  Entering  the  court,  one  sees,  through  a 
drapery  of  vines,  the  famous  "  sacrificial  stone,"  occupying  the 
centre  of  a  lovely  garden  of  fiowers ;  beyond  and  above  it 
towers  the  once-dreaded  Huitzilopochtli,  the  great  war-god  of 
the  Aztecs ;  while  each  side  is  flanked  by  a  statue,  the  one  on 
the  left  obtained  in  Tlascala,  and  that  on  the  right  in  Yucatan. 
A  nondescript  monument  rises  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  garden, 
with  frogs  and  snakes  of  stone  squatted  and  coiled  about  its 
base ;  idols  lie  scattered  over  the  pavement  of  the  courts  and 
in  the  shrubbery,  and  images  of  stone  and  marble,  possessing 
great  value  for  their  antiquity  and  the  skill  shown  in  their  work- 
manship. 

The  immense  sacrificial  stone  upon  which,  according  to  his- 
torians, so  many  thousand  victims  have  been  off"ered  up,  is  worn 
and  polished  by  the  weather;  while  the  statue  on  the  right  —  of 
Chaacmol,  the  tiger-king,  discovered  by  Dr.  Le  Plongeon  in  the 
wilds  of  Yucatan  —  is  becoming  covered  with  a  pernicious  dis- 
coloration.^ Poor  Chaacmol !  to  remain  buried  so  many  years ; 
to  be  unearthed  by  an  enterprising  archaeologist ;  to  be  destined 
for  the  United  States,  but  finally  to  rest  ignominiously  in  this 
court,  half  hidden  by  surrounding  plants,  and  growing  green 
with-  exposure  to  elements  from  which  he  had  so  long  been 
protected. 

^  See  page  io8. 
20 


3o6 


TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 


THE   SACRIFICIAL   STONE. 

And  Huitzilopochtli,  —  a  sweet  name  to  roll  under  one's 
tongue,  —  for  how  many  years  has  this  venerable  war-god 
blinked  in  the  noonday  sun,  and  had  his  massive  head  washed 
by  the  afternoon  rains  !  It  is  possible  that  he  with  the  rest  will 
be  afforded  a  shelter  when  the  Museum  is  ready  to  receive  him. 
I  regard  him  as  the  most  interesting  relic  of  that  past  age 
of  idolatry,  for  there  is  mention  of  him  among  the  first  objects 
shown  Cortes  by  Montezuma,  when  he  ascended  with  him  to 
the  temple.  Let  us  see  what  that  companion  of  Cortes,  Bernal 
Diaz,  says  about  it :  "  Here  were  two  altars  highly  adorned, 
with  richly-wrought  timbers  on  the  roof,  and  over  the  altars 
gigantic  figures  representing  very  fat  men.  The  one  on  the 
right  was  Huitzilopochtli,  their  war-god,  with  a  great  face  and 
terrible  eyes.  This  figure  was  entirely  covered  with  gold  and 
jewels,  and  his  body  bound  with  golden  serpents ;  in  his  right 
hand  he  held  a  bow,  and  in  his  left  a  bundle  of  arrows.  The 
great  idol  had  round  his  neck  figures  of  human  heads  and 
hearts  made  of  pure  gold  and  silver,  ornamented  with  precious 
stones  of  a  blue  color.  Before  the  idol  was  a  pan  of  incense, 
with  three  hearts  of  human  victims,  which  were  then  burning, 
mixed  with  copal.  The  whole  of  that  apartment,  both  walls 
and  floor,  was  stained  with  human  blood." 


A   DAY   IN   THE   MUSEUMS. 


307 


TOP   OF    SACRIFICIAL   STONE. 


A  miscellaneous  lot  of  gods,  goddesses,  and  objects  of  wor- 
ship, fare  yet  worse  than  the  greater  deities  ;  for,  piled  up  against 


SCULPTURE   ON  THE   SIDE. 


308  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

the  side  cf  a  building,  they  arc  exposed  to  the  rude  assaults  of 
man  and  beast.  A  horse  was  stabled  in  that  quarter  of  the  gar- 
den at  the  time  of  my  visit,  close  by  these  valuable  antiquities, 
and,  judging  by  the  appearance  of  some  of  them,  he  had  given 
expression  to  his  contempt  by  kicking  off  their  noses  and  ears. 

Leaving  this  court,  where  two  palms  give  a  tropic  cast  to  the 
complexion  of  the  garden,  we  seek  access  to  the  museum.  En- 
trance once  gained,  through  a  gallery  lined  with  portraits  of  the 
famous  viceroys  of  Mexico,  with  a  full-length  of  Maximilian  on 
horseback  in  the  background,  one  soon  sees  what  a  valuable 
collection  this  is,  which  has  been  accumulated  during  the  past 
ninety  years.  There  is  an  authentic  portrait  of  Cortes  ;  opposite  is 
his  banner, —  that  silken  pennon  so  often  in  peril  from  the  savage 
hordes  it  was  borne  amongst.  One  room  is  filled  with  the  silver 
service  of  Maximilian,  some  antique  armor  and  relics  of  the 
conquerors,  while  valuable  portraits  of  the  viceroys  and  bishops 
of  Mexico  adorn  the  walls  above.  Entering  the  largest  room, 
one  sees  some  fine  specimens  of  that  famous  picture-writing  of 
the  Aztecs,  such  as  they  used  for  conveying  to  Montezuma  the 
intelligence  of  the  arrival  of  the  white  strangers  on  his  coast,  in 
those  fateful  years  of  the  conquest.  There  are  images  here,  and 
gods  of  every  known  shape  and  kind,  for  the  ancient  Mexicans 
rejoiced  in  a  greater  variety  of  gods  than  any  other  nation  ex- 
isting at  that  time.  It  is  related,  I  remember,  that  when  Cor- 
tes proposed  to  the  Tlascalans  to  abjure  their  gods,  and  set  up 
the  Virgin  Mary  instead,  they  made  reply  that  "  they  could  not 
do  that,  but  they  would  give  her  a  fair  show  with  the  rest." 
Whole  or  none  was  the  policy  of  Cortes,  and  he  later  com- 
pelled them  to  cast  down  their  idols  and  set  up  an  image  of  his 
own  choice. 

This  is  a  benevolent  government,  and  encourages  the  learned 
and  scientific  men  of  all  countries  to  come  here  and  study.  It 
opens  to  them  its  vast  fields  of  archaeological  treasures,  and 
says,  "  Come  and  investigate " ;  it  points  out  pyramids  and 
mounds,  and  says  to  those  wise  men  from  other  lands,  "  Come 
and  dig  " ;  and  then  it  swoops  down  upon  the  findings  of  those 
wise  men  and  carries  them  to  the  Museum. 


A   DAY   IN   THE   MUSEUMS.  3O9 

Yet  who  can  blame  it?  An  antiquarian  is  not  like  the  wise 
man,  who  found  a  treasure  and  went  straightway  and  hid  it;  but 
he,  immediately  he  discovers  anything  of  value,  sets  up  such  a 
howl  of  self-glorification  that  the  attention  of  the  whole  world  is 
directed  thereto.  Then,  while  the  excavator  is  absent,  looking 
for  some  means  of  conveying  his  treasure  out  of  the  country, 
the  government  steps  in  and  quietly  carries  it  off.  Thus 
Mexico  is  enriched.  The  government  is  apathetic  in  regard 
to  ruins  and  antiquities  —  till  somebody  finds  something,  then 
it  is  wide  awake  at  once.  It  does  not  even  gather  in  the  monu- 
ments, minor  and  greater,  that  lie  scattered  about  the  fields. 

A  case  in  point  occurred  in  the  summer  of  1881.  The  Chi- 
cago Times  sent  out  an  expedition  to  Mexico  for  the  purpose 
of  unearthing  buried  monuments.  Captain  Evans,  who  com- 
prised the  expedition,  was  here  two  months,  and  during  that 
time  was  not  idle.  He  found  in  Tezcoco,  the  ancient  capital  of 
art  and  civilization  before  the  conquest,  a  "  calendar  stone,"  — 
or  the  half  of  one,  —  some  five  or  six  feet  long  and  three  or 
four  wide.  This  stone  had  been  discovered  some  six  months 
previously  by  the  poor  man  who  owned  the  mound,  yet  no  one 
in  the  city  of  Mexico  knew  of  it  till  announced  by  Captain 
Evans.  It  is  a  valuable  sculpture,  but  the  Mexican  government 
will  make  no  attempt  to  house  it.  It  will  wait  till  some  one 
less  wary  than  Captain  Evans  comes  along,  purchases  it  of  the 
owner,  and  tries  to  carry  it  away ;  when  it  reaches  a  railroad 
leading  to  Mexico,  it  will  be  quietly  drawn  into  the  Museum, 
and  there  remain.  There  is  here  a  small  collection  of  earthen 
ware,  that  reminds  us  of  the  exploits  of  a  foreign  archaeologist 
in  Mexico,  —  one  who  came  there  with  a  great  flourish  of  trum- 
pets, but  who  departed  without  a  great  deal  of  pottery. 

Some  of  the  people  of  Mexico  are  afflicted  with  a  complaint 
known  as  the  mafiana  fever.  If  you  ask  them  anything,  the 
answer  is  manana,  —  to-morrow.  They  eat,  drink,  and  sleep 
to-day,  but  do  their  work  and  grant  their  favors  —  manana. 

And  speaking  of  this  manana  sickness  reminds  me  that  it  is 
contagious.  The  most  notable  instance  is  that  of  this  well- 
known  archaeologist.     Read   his  communications,  and  they  are 


310  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

found  breathing  the  very  spirit  of  "  mananfiism."  He  came  to 
Mexico,  stopped  at  the  best  hotel,  entertaining  strangers  with 
descriptions  of  the  excavations  —  that  he  was  going  to  make. 
Now  and  again  he  skipped  out  of  town  for  a  few  days,  dug  a 
hole  somewhere,  and  brought  back  fragments  of  pottery  that 
indicated  valuable  deposits  to  be  found  —  mafiana.  He  was 
always  going  to  find  a  buried  city- — ^ to-morrow;  a  palace  — 
to-morrow ;  he  will  draw  you  a  plan  of  his  work  and  make  all 
clear  —  to-morrow;  his  photographs,  the  best  in  the  world,  are 
not  now  to  be  seen,  but —  to-morrow ;  his  casts,  to  enlighten  the 
world,  may  be  seen  —  inanana  ;  and  it  is  not  surprising  to  find 
that  he  finally  left  the  country  to  the  tune  of  manana  music. 

Lest  it  should  be  inferred  from  the  foregoing  that  the  Mexi- 
can government  does  not  extend  a  helping  hand  to  the  cause 
of  science,  I  hasten  to  add  that  the  contrary  is  the  fact. 
Although  revolutions  have  shaken  this  country  terribly  in  the 
past,  fair  Science  walks  serenely  on,  its  eye  fixed  steadfastly 
upon  the  stars.  A  rapid  sketch  of  the  history  of  this  institution, 
the  National  Museum,  will  prove  this.  It  is  translated  from  the 
annals  of  the  Museum  itself. 

When  that  pious  furor  was  over  which  animated  the  first 
Archbishop  of  Mexico,  Zumarraga,  and  the  conquerors  and 
missionaries,  who  destroyed  all  the  ancient  writings  and  Aztec 
monuments  that  fell  in  their  way,  —  considered  by  them  as 
invincible  obstacles  to  the  abolishment  of  idolatry  amongst  the 
subjugated  Indians, —  there  succeeded  a  more  enlightened  epoch, 
when  it  was  seen  what  an  irreparable  loss  the  history  of  the 
New  World  had  met  with.  Some  of  the  kings  of  Spain  under- 
took to  repair,  by  every  means  possible,  the  evil  caused  by 
ignorance  and  fanaticism,  and  at  diff"erent  times  ordered  to  be 
collected  all  the  documents  that  would  serve  to  illustrate  the 
history  of  America,  and  appointed  chroniclers  of  the  Indies, 
who  were  charged  with  writing  it  out.  The  viceroys  of  Mex- 
ico, following  this  impulse,  commenced  to  collect  and  deposit 
in  the  archives  of  the  viceroyalty  that  which  they  thought  of  in- 
terest. We  should  not  fail  to  mention  the  collection  of  Boturini, 
called  his  historical  Indian  Museum,  —  a  rich  collection  of  many 


AZTEC  CYCLE  AND  CALENDAR. 


A   DAY    IN   THE   MUSEUMS.  313 

maps,  hieroglyphs  on  skin  and  cloth  of  agave,  and  manuscripts 
written  posterior  to  the  conquest,  confiscated  by  the  colonial 
government.  Owing  to  the  negligence  of  those  who  had  it  in 
charge,  this  valuable  treasure  was  lost,  little  by  little,  and  to- 
day the  Museum  possesses  only  a  portion  of  it.  It  was  proba- 
bly on  this  account  that  it  was  ordered  that  all  the  documents 
relating  to  Mexican  antiquities  be  delivered  into  the  care  of  the 
Royal  University.  Another  of  the  viceroys.  Count  Revillagi- 
gedo,  ordered  that  the  antiquities  found  at  the  levelling  of  the 
Plaza  Mayor,  in  1790,  should  be  deposited  in  the  University  for 
special  study;  with  the  exception  of  the  "  calendar  stone,"  which 
was  asked  of  him  by  a  commission  of  the  cathedral,  and  set  up 
in  its  present  position,  against  the  western  wall  of  that  edifice. 
In  this  manner  there  was  formed  in  the  University  a  gathering 
point  for  the  historic  documents  and  archaeological  monuments 
of  Mexico. 

In  November,  1822,  the  national  government  established  in 
the  same  edifice  a  conservatory  of  antiquities  and  cabinet  of 
natural  history;  in  1831,  upon  motion  of  Don  Lucas  Alaman, 
both  establishments  were  reconstructed  under  the  name  of  the 
National  Museum.  Later,  in  December,  1865,  the  Archduke 
Maximihan  removed  the  Museum  to  its  present  quarters  in 
the  national  palace,  formerly  occupied  by  the  mint. 

At  the  organization  of  the  national  government,  in  1867,  a 
sum  of  five  hundred  dollars  per  month  was  voted  for  the  ex- 
penses of  this  establishment.  The  Museum  comprehends,  and 
is  divided  into  three  departments,  —  Natural  History,  Archaeol- 
ogy, and  Bibliography. 

A  valuable  feature  of  this  institution  is  the  publication  of  its 
"  Annals,"  containing  descriptions  of  the  historic  objects  in  the 
Museum,  and  of  all  antiquities  pertaining  to  Mexico.  The  first 
of  these  Anales  del  Mtisco  Nacional  de  Mexico  appeared  in  1877, 
containing  articles  by  Senores  Mendoza,  Sanchez,  Orozco  y 
Berra,  and  Barcena.  They  have  appeared  with  regularity,  and 
constitute  a  most  valuable  addition  to  the  literature  of  Ana- 
huac.  The  lithographic  plates,  executed  in  Mexico,  beauti- 
fully colored,  are   the  admiration  of  all  who  see  them.     There 


314 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


have  been  in  all  about  twenty  parts  issued,  which  are  exchanged 
for  the  publications  of  the  scientific  societies  of  other  countries, 
and  also  sold  at  one  dollar  each. 

But  enough   of  the   history  of  this  institution,  though  it  is 

necessary  to  a  com- 
plete understanding  of 
its  collections.  We 
have  merely  glanced 
over  these,  since  to  de- 
scribe them  would  de- 
mand the  space  of  a 
volume  devoted  espe- 
cially to  antiquities.  It 
is  only  recently  that 
they  have  been  cata- 
logued, and  the  student 
made  acquainted  with 
the  locale  of  some  of  the 
rarest  historical  objects 
on  the  American  con- 
tinent. 

The  most  celebrated 
of  these  antiquities  have 
been  already  mentioned, 
—  the  sacrificial  stone, 
and  the  image  of  the 
Aztec  war  god,  Huitzi- 
lopochtli.  As  to  the 
latter,  let  his  picture 
speak  for  him ;  it  is 
not  known  when  he 
was  sculptured,  but  it 
is  known  that  he  was  found  buried  in  the  great  square,  in  1790, 
—  that  he  was  again  interred,  for  fear  that  he  might  tempt  the 
Indians  to  their  ancient  worship,  but  again  exhumed  in  1821. 
Fruitless  discussions  have  been  had,  as  to  whether  it  is  Huitzi- 
lopochtli,  or  Teoyaomiqui,  goddess  of  death.    It  matters  not;  the 


HUITZILOPOCHTLI,   GOD   OF   WAR. 


A   DAY   IN   THE   MUSEUMS. 


315 


statue  was  worshipped,  rivers  of  blood  have  flowed  before  it, 
and  innocent  men  and  maidens  have  perished  in  its  presence, 
for  the  hearts  of  human  victims  were  kept  smoking  on  its  altar 
night  and  day. 

The  sacrificial  stone  is  inseparably  connected  with  the  name 
of  Huitzilopochtli,  since  it  was  upon  it  that  the  victims  gave  up 
their  lives.  Of  this  we  have  data,  which  enable  us  to  state  when 
it  was  hewn  out  from  the  quarry  of  Coyoacan  and  sculptured, 
with  its  endless  procession  of  conquering  kings.  I  need  not 
call  the  reader's  attention  to  what  Prescott  has  written  regard- 
ing this  very  stone,  to  what  all  the  historians  of  Mexico  have 
said  in  confirmation  of  the  statement  that  upon  this  stone,  in 
a  single  year,  sixty  thousand  human  victims  were  offered  up 
in  sacrifice !  It  is  nine  feet  in  diameter,  three  feet  in  height, 
and  carved  on  top  and  sides,  with  a  deep  bowl  in  the  centre, 
and  a  channel  leading  to  the  edge.  This  is  suggestive,  this 
gutter  for  the  blood  of  the  victim  to  flow  in,  and  self-explan- 
atory. 

Another  great  monolith,  illustrating  the  advancement  of  the 
Aztecs  in  the  art  of  sculpture,  is  the  calendar  stone,  —  not  in  the 
Museum,  but  cemented  into  the  western  wall  of  the  cathedral. 
We  know,  from  reading  Prescott,  Clavigero,  Humboldt,  and 
others,  that  the  ancient  Aztecs,  and  before  them  the  Toltecs, 
were  in  a  measure  civilized.  It  is  claimed  that  they  could  cal- 
culate the  recurrence  of  their  cycles,  the  solstices,  etc.,  and  that 
this  "  Calendar  Stone  "  was  indeed  a  perpetual  calendar.  Such 
has  been  the  result  of  the  interpretations  of  the  hieroglyphs  on 
its  face  by  the  learned  Gama,  Gallatin,  and  others ;  but  more 
recent  writers  advance  the  opinion  that  it  was  solely  intended 
to  commemorate  the  feast-days,  and  to  preserve  in  the  memory 
of  man  the  years  of  the  cycles  that  had  passed  at  the  time  it 
was  engraved.^  This  latter  interpretation  would  seem  to  be  the 
correct  one,  but  we  will  not  enter  into  the  discussion.  It  is  on 
record  that  this  stone  was  also  hewn  from  a  block  of  basalt 

^  See  "  Calendario  Azteco,  Ensayo  Archseologico,  por  A.  Chavero,"  Mexico, 
1876;  and  "  The  Mexican  Calendar  Stone,"  by  Philipp  J.  J.  Valentini,  Proc.  Amer. 
Ant.  Society,  October,  1878. 


3i6 


TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 


quarried  in  Coyoacan,  and  was  brought  to  the  city  with  attend- 
ant feasts,  and  songs,  and  dancing,  in  the  year  1479,  during  the 
reign  of  the  great  and  bloody  Axayacatl.  Its  face  is  eleven 
feet  eight  inches  in  diameter,  and  the  whole  mass  is  said  to 
weigh  twenty-six  tons. 

As  to  the  picture-writing,  some  specimens  of  it  are  preserved 
here,    though    the    best   examples    are    to    be    found    scattered 

abroad  in  some  of  the 
libraries  of  Europe. 
Both  pictorial  and 
symbolic  in  its  char- 
acter, the  Aztec  man- 
uscript was  prepared 
from,  and  its  charac- 
ters written  on,  either 
deer-skin  or  maguey 
paper.  One  is  men- 
tioned over  sixty  feet 
long,  a  narrow  strip, 
folded  after  the  man- 
ner of  a  book,  with 
wooden  slips  at  the  extremities,  which  formed  the  covers  when 
closed. 

Although  the  best  and  most  valuable  Aztec  manuscripts,  or 
picture-paintings,  were  destroyed  by  Zumarraga,  first  Bishop  of 
Mexico,  some  remained,  and  others  —  as  soon  as  the  Spaniards 
became  sensible  of  their  error  —  were  produced  by  learned 
Indians,  by  order  of  the  Viceroy.  We  know  that  the  Mexi- 
cans were  very  apt  at  depicting  scenes  and  representing  occur- 
rences, and  that  the  landing  of  the  Spaniards,  in  15 19,  with 
all  its  attendant  circumstances,  was  transmitted  to  Montezuma 
by  his  skilful  painters  before  the  bustle  of  that  event  had  sub- 
sided. 

In  the  great  book  by  Lord  Kingsborough  we  may  find  the 
various  "Codices"  produced  in  fac-simile,  with  all  the  bright 
colors  of  the  originals.  I  have  in  my  possession  a  lithographed 
chart  in  black  and  white,  of  some  five  metres  in  length,  pre- 


THE   CAVE   PERIOD. 
(Aztec  Picture-writing.) 


A   DAY    IN   THE   MUSEUMS. 


317 


pared    by   direction    of    that    indefatigable    archaeologist,    Mr. 
Squier,  so  well  known  as  an  authority  on  Central  America.^ 

Four  "  maps,"  or  charts,  are  given ;  the  first,  a  history  of  the 
sovereign  states  and  the  kings  of  Acolhuacan,  is  a  non-chrono- 
logical map,  belonging  to  the  collection  of  Boturini.  It  is  on 
prepared  skin,  and  represents  the  genealogy  of  the  Chichimeque 


NOMADIC   PERIOD. 

(Aztec  Picture- Writing.) 

emperors,  from  Tlotzin  to  the  last  king,  Don  Fernando  Ixtlilxo- 
chitl,  and  has  a  number  of  paragraphs  in  Nahuatl,  or  Mexican, 
It  belonged,  according  to  an  inscription  on  the  back,  to  Don 
Diego  Pimental,  descendant  of  King  Nezalhualcoyotl.  It  gives  a 
summary  of  the  wars,  pestilences,  etc.,  which  destroyed  the  Tol- 
tecs,  and  depicts  the  journeyings  of  the  barbarous  Chichimecs 
who  invaded  the  valley  of  Anahuac,  and  finally  established  them- 
selves at  Tezcoco. 

^  I  deem  it  a  duty  to  our  museums  and  antiquarian  societies  to  call  attention  to 
this  series  of  Aztec  manuscripts  in  possession  of  Mr.  Frank  Squier,  of  84  Duane 
Street,  New  York.  This  gentleman  has  assured  me  that  he  would  willingly  dis- 
pose of  his  duplicate  copies,  at  a  very  low  price,  in  order  that  these  valuable  repro- 
ductions might  be  disseminated. 


3l8  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

I  produce  here  fragments  of  two  of  the  pictures,  showing 
them  as  Hving  in  the  caves  of  Chicamoztoc,  their  subsequent 
migration,  and  their  barbarous  nomadic  Hfe,  when  they  sub- 
sisted entirely  upon  the  chase  and  the  wild  plants  of  the  field. 
The  second  series  pictures  them  as  having  settled  at  Tezcoco, 
and  engaged  in  the  pursuits  of  agriculture,  being  surrounded 
by  figures  of  the  maguey,  cultivated  cactus,  and  other  plants. 
The  third  gives  us  a  glimpse  of  their  later  life,  after  they  had 
assimilated  the  remnant  of  the  Toltecs  remaining  in  the  valley, 
and  had  learned  from  them  the  arts  for  which  the  latter  people 
had  been  distinguished,  such  as  the  casting  of  metals,  the  manu- 
facture of  jewelry,  copper  utensils,  etc.  The  most  valuable  of 
the  series  is  called  "  Map  Tepechpan,"  also  one  of  the  Boturini 
collection,  and  consists  of  synchronous  annals  of  the  princi- 
palities of  Tepechpan  and  Mexico,  commencing  with  the  year 
1298,  and  ending  at  the  conquest;  subsequently  extended  by 
less  skilful  hands  to  1596.  Like  the  two  manuscripts  before 
spoken  of,  these  go  back  to  the  savage  era  of  the  Chichimecs, 
but  give  the  leading  events  in  the  Tepanec  and  Mexican  tribes 
until  the  establishment  of  the  Mexican  empire,  thence  relating 
exclusively  to  the  latter.  Wars,  earthquakes,  volcanic  eruptions, 
inundations,  etc.,  are  all  accurately  recorded  under  the  date  of 
their  occurrence.  The  coming  of  Cortes,  the  death  of  Monte- 
zuma and  his  nephew,  and  the  accession  of  Guatemotzin,  are  all 
intelligibly  set  down  here  in  unmistakable  characters. 

Among  the  many  attractive  articles  in  the  Museum  is  Monte- 
zuma's feather-covered  shield,  below  and  beyond  which  are  cases 
of  carved  stone,  in  every  shape  the  fertile  Indian  imagination 
could  suggest;   to  describe  them  would  require  a  catalogue. 

That  rare  volcanic  glass,  obsidian,  was  early  used  by  the  Mexi- 
can aborigines  in  the  manufacture  of  arrow  and  spear  heads, 
and  even  mirrors  and  curious  masks  are  shown  here,  carved 
and  polished.  Vases  of  clay,  black,  and  painted  in  many  colors, 
with  grotesque  figures  wrought,  we  also  find,  of  which  the 
finest,  perhaps,  is  that  bearing  the  image  and  symbols  of  the 
goddess  Centeotl,  the  Mexican  Ceres.  Of  the  thousand  and  one 
gods  possessed  by  the  Aztecs,  there  were  thirteen  which  held 


A   DAY   IN  THE   MUSEUMS. 


319 


high  rank.  The  supreme  being  was  Teotl;  but  their  greatest 
god  represented  by  earthly  symbol  was  Tezcatlipoca,  or  "  the 
Shining  Mirror,"  while  Ometeuctli  and  Omecihuatl  were  re- 
spectively god  and  goddess  only  a  little  less  powerful  than  the 
second.  The  god  of  storms  and  master  of  paradise  was  one 
Tlaloc,  whose  residence  on  earth  was  the  volcano  Popocatapetl. 

Of  the  tepitoton,  or 
little  gods,  the  Mexican 
penates,  there  were  a  vast 
number  in  olden  times, 
for  each  noble  was  en- 
titled to  six  in  his  house 
at  once,  and  of  these 
Bishop  Zumarraga  de- 
stroyed, it  is  said,  at 
least  twenty  thousand. 

So  many  and  so  vari- 
ous are  the  objects  col- 
lected here,  that  it  must 
have  taken  centuries  of 
toil  and  the  slow  de- 
velopment of  inventive 
genius  to  produce  them. 
We  can  well  believe  the 
statement  of  an  English 
antiquarian  collecting  in 
Mexican  fields,  that  he  often  made  trial  whether  it  were  possible 
to  stand  still  in  any  spot  where  there  was  no  relic  of  Old  Mex- 
ico within  sight,  and  found  he  could  not.  Carved  objects  are 
numerous,  as  shown  by  the  masks,  the  teponaztli,  or  Mexican 
drum,  and  the  so-called  "  sacrificial  collars."  These  latter  re- 
minded me  of  some  I  had  seen  in  Porto  Rico,  of  which  the 
Smithsonian  Institution  has  the  only  complete  series,  and  which 
are  described  and  figured  in  the  Reports  of  the  Institution  by 
Professor  Mason.  There  seems  to  be  the  same  doubt  as  to 
the  use  of  these  strange  stones  as  hangs  over  those  "  collars " 
from  Porto  Rico.     A  teacher  in  the  Jesuit  college  at  San  Juan, 


VASE   IN   THE  MUSEUM. 


320 


TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 


in  that  island,  told  me  that  Indian  tradition  related  that  these 
stones,  which  in  Porto  Rico  are  oval,  and  shaped  exactly  like 
horse-collars,  were  the  private  property  of  persons  of  rank,  and 
were  made  by  them  during  life  to  be  buried  with  them  at  death, 
being  placed  over  the  head  and  upon  the  breast  of  the  corpse. 

One  other  object  claims  my  attention  here,  as  I  speak  of  that 
famed  island  in  the  West  Indian  group,  where  Columbus  first 
found  Indians  approaching  in  their  mode  of  life  to  civilization, 

and  this  is  the  cele- 
brated perro  vmdo,  or 
dumb  dog.  There  is, 
or  was,  a  statue  of  him, 
and  I  think  he  was 
the  animal  of  all  oth- 
ers most  worthy  this 
honor,  for  he  could 
neither  bark  nor  bite. 
Now  this  animal,  the 
alco,  or  wild  dog,  the 
Spaniards  found  in 
Mexico,  Peru,  and  the 
West  India  Islands.  It 
was  a  cherished  object 
of  affection  with  the 
Indians  of  Haiti  espe- 
cially, who  carried  it 
in  their  arms  wherever 
they  went,  and  equally 
esteemed  was  it  by  the 
Aztecs  and  other  Mexicans,  though  as  an  article  of  food.  It 
was  called  by  them  Techidii,  and  by  the  Spaniards  el  perro 
miido,  or  the  silent  dog.  After  the  conquest,  the  Spaniards, 
having  neither  cattle  nor  sheep,  provided  their  markets  with  this 
animal,  and  soon,  though  once  numerous,  it  became  extinct; 
but  it  is  said  to  exist  among  the  Apaches  to-day.  The  Aztecs 
held  the  belief  that  the  Techichi  acted  as  a  guide  through  the 
dark  regions   after  death.     As  none  of  these   dogs  have  been 


"  SACRIFICIAL   COLLAR." 


A   DAY    IN   THE   MUSEUMS.  321 

seen  for  quite  three  hundred  years  or  more,  it  is  presumed  that 
the  entire  race  is  employed  in  this  duty  of  guiding  the  spirits 
of  departed  Aztecs  through  the  shades  of  purgatory. 

Some  visitors  to  Mexico  have  complained,  through  their  writ- 
ings, that  there  is  little  to  be  seen  here  or  elsewhere  of  that  work 
of  the  goldsmiths  in  which  the  Mexicans  excelled.  Where,  says 
one,  are  the  calendars  of  solid  gold  and  silver,  as  big  as  great 
wheels,  and  covered  with  hieroglyphics  ?  where  the  golden 
birds  and  beasts  and  fishes  ?  They  have  all  gone  to  the  melt- 
ing-pot centuries  ago.  This  is  indeed  true,  for  the  kings  of 
Spain,  though  the  conquistadores  sent  them  many,  many  rare 
and  curious  works  in  silver,  gold,  and  gems,  were  wofully  lack- 
ing in  the  antiquarian  spirit,  and  put  these  priceless  treasures  to 
ignoble  uses.  To-day  the  native  Mexican  excels  in  the  produc- 
tion of  filigree  work  in  silver,  but  in  little  else. 

The  ancient  Aztecs,  at  the  time  of  their  discovery  by  Euro- 
peans, in  1520,  were  acquainted  with  many  arts  that  are  lost  at 
the  present  day.  Their  works  in  silver  and  gold  were  the  admi- 
ration of  all  who  beheld  them ;  and  when  brought  to  the  notice 
of  the  goldsmiths  of  Europe,  they  declared  they  could  not  equal 
them ;  they  cut  gems  and  wrought  precious  metals  in  the  forms 
of  fishes,  birds,  and  beasts,  imitating,  in  fact,  nearly,  every  object 
in  nature.  Their  numberless  idols  testify  to  their  skill  in  carving 
stone,  and  their  wonderful  picture-writings  remain  to  attest  their 
fertile  fancy  in  the  invention  of  symbols  for  ideas.  They  pos- 
sessed in  a  high  degree  the  true  artistic  instinct,  and  nothing  will 
so  well  confirm  the  truth  of  this  statement  as  their  remarkable 
feather  pictures.  When  the  Spanish  conquerors  invaded  Mexico, 
they  were  struck  with  the  exquisite  beauty  of  the  plumaje,  or 
feather-work,  of  the  Aztecs.  Even  the  stout  old  soldiers,  who 
fought  through  all  the  battles  in  which  Cortes  was  engaged, 
make  mention  of  it  as  among  the  beautiful  objects  that  first 
greeted  their  eyes  in  the  markets  of  Mexico. 

Though  the  race  that  then  occupied  that  country  was  nearly 
exterminated,  and  the  skilful  artists  and  artisans  dispersed,  this 
art  survived  even  the  persecutions  of  centuries,  and  is  among  the 
few  relics  preserved  of  Aztec  refinement  and  civilization.     It  has 


322 


TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 


been  handed  down  from  father  to  son,  guarded  as  a  secret  so 
closely  that  but  few  of  the  Mexican  Indians  of  the  present  day 
are  adepts  at  it.  The  feather  pictures  produced  by  them  are 
as  much  works  of  art  as  the  best  paintings ;  and  the  beautiful 
feathers  of  trogon,  paroquet,  and  humming-bird  are  as  deli- 
cately laid  on  and  as  skilfully  blended  as  the  colors  from  the 
hand  of  a  master. 

Another  evidence  of  refinement  of  taste  in  the  Indian  is  to 
be  found  in  the  "  rag  figures,"  which  have  a  reputation  that 
is  not  less  than  world-wide.  The  French,  in  their  invasion  of 
Mexico,  went  into  raptures  over  these  mar- 
vellous imitations  of  life  scenes  that  were 
passing  before  their  eyes  every  day,  and 
declared  they  excelled  the  work  of  the  best 
Chinese,  Genoese,  and  Japanese  workmen. 
The  Aztec  is  patient;  therein  lies  the  secret 
of  his  success.  Whether  he  be  engaged  in 
blending  the  metallic  scales  from  the  hum- 
ming-bird's throat  in  one  of  those  wonder- 
ful feather  pictures,  or  whether  moulding  an 
image  from  plastic  material,  he  puts  his  whole 
soul  into  the  work,  and  considers  not  time 
nor  labor  till  the  thing  is  accomplished.  The 
vast  multitudes  that  throng  the  streets  and 
markets  of  Mexico  furnish  him  with  subjects 
for  his  patient  fingers.  Upon  a  core  of  care- 
fully-manipulated wax  he  moulds  a  skin  of 
thin,  specially-prepared  cloth,  tinted  the  exact  color  of  the  tawny 
people  he  purposes  to  represent.  He  does  not  draw  upon  his 
imagination  for  material,  but  imitates  exactly  the  figures  that 
move  through  the  street  before  his  workshop  door. 

Thus  we  have  speaking  likenesses  of  every  type  in  Mexico, 
from  the  poor  Indian,  whose  nakedness  is  barely  concealed  by  a 
tattered  shirt  or  leather  breeches,  to  the  gayly  decorated  cabal- 
lero,  mounted  upon  his  silver-bespangled  steed.  There  is  the 
charcoal-seller,  with  a  donkey-load  of  coal  upon  his  back ;  it 
may  be  man  or  woman,  and  if  the  latter,  she  will  have,  in  addi- 


FIGURE   IN    WAX. 


A   DAY    IN   THE   MUSEUMS.  323 

tion  to  the  burden  on  her  shoulders,  a  baby  suspended  in  the 
rebozo.  Another  woman,  from  the  canal  and  the  "  floating 
gardens,"  has  immense  bouquets  in  her  hands,  and  a  tray  of 
tropical  fruits  balanced  upon  her  head.  Then  there  is  the 
vender  of  crockery,  who  has  on  his  back  a  huge  crate  of  all 
sorts  of  earthen  ware ;  one  group  represents  him  chaffing  with 
a  customer,  so  natural  in  execution  that  we  are  transported  at 
once  to  the  markets  of  Mexico,  and  mixing  in  the  busy  throng 
in  the  Plaza  Mayor.  A  lepero  closely  follow^s,  a  mongrel  Mexi- 
can, with  hand  outstretched  for  alms,  and  his  mouth  open,  from 
which  we  may  almost  imagine  we  hear  the  cry,  "  Por  dioSy 
seflor."  He  has  one  eye  closed  as  if  blind,  and  his  tattered 
leather  breeches  barely  hang  together.  He  passes,  and  a  white- 
headed  Indian  trots  in  sight,  bearing  a  load  of  fireworks  on  his 
shoulders,  and  all  the  paraphernalia  for  the  celebration  of  Holy 
Week.  A  basket-maker  comes  next,  then  a  man  with  tunas,  or 
prickly-pears,  for  sale,  and  all  sorts  of  vegetables  and  flowers, 
colored  by  the  artist  to  exactly  imitate  the  natural  article. 

While  Mexico  is  fast  becoming  modernized,  it  is  fortunate, 
perhaps,  that  the  customs  and  costumes  of  the  people  are  thus 
perpetuated.  It  will  not  be  many  years  before  the  traveller  will 
have  to  go  many  a  mile,  and  seek  through  many  a  city,  for 
the  gorgeous  caballero  who  is  a  common  sight  in  the  capital  to- 
day; for  the  advent  of  railroads  is  producing  a  great  change,  not 
only  in  the  face  of  the  country,  but  in  the  habits  and  costumes 
of  the  people.  They  are  gradually  adopting  European  styles  of 
dress,  and  throwing  off  the  garb  of  their  forefathers,  which  has 
stamped  them  as  the  most  original  and  picturesque  people  on 
the  face  of  the  earth.  The  only  consolation  of  the  future  traveller 
lies  in  the  fact,  that  among  these  people  dwell  those  skilful  artists 
who  have  reproduced  in  wax  and  plaster  perfect  types  of  these 
unique  costumes,  which  are  fast  becoming  obsolete. 

The  archc-Eological  fields  of  Mexico  are  exceeding  rich,^  but 

^  The  author  would  call  attention  to  the  fact  that  he  has  enumerated  and  par- 
ticularly described  (for  the  first  time,  it  is  believed)  all  the  principal  ruins,  and 
groups  of  ruins,  in  Mexico,  of  interest  to  the  student  of  American  archaeology.  A 
reference  to  the  Index,  under  the  head  of  Ruins,  or  Antiquities,  will  enable  the 
curious  reader  to  trace  and  locate  this  line  of  ancient  cities. 


324  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

we  cannot  linger  in  them  longer;  let  us  hasten  to  visit  another 
place.  It  is  only  a  block  away  from  the  Museum  that  we 
find  a  public  institution  which  shows  yet  more  forcibly  what  a 
truly  munificent  government  has  at  some  time  or  other  ruled 
over  Mexico.  This  is  the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  the  Institute 
of  San  Carlos,  founded  in  1781,  "We  are  astonished,"  says 
Humboldt,  "  at  seeing  here  that  the  Apollo  of  Belvedere,  the 
group  of  Laocoon,  and  still  more  colossal  statues,  have  been  con- 
veyed through  mountain  roads  at  least  as  narrow  as  those  of  St. 
Gothard  ;  and  we  are  surprised  at  finding  these  masterpieces  of 
antiquity  collected  together  under  the  torrid  zone,  in  a  table-land 
higher  than  the  convent  of  the  great  St.  Bernard."  The  casts 
are  scarcely  worthy  of  notice  in  these  later  times,  but  there 
seems  to  me  much  to  admire  in  the  five  saloons  devoted  to 
paintings.  The  first  and  second  are  crowded  with  the  works  of 
the  old  Mexican  painters,  and  contain  some  very  worthy  pro- 
ductions, mostly  treating  of  sacred  subjects  ;  several  dating  from 
a  period  nearly  three  centuries  ago,  but  more  of  two  hundred 
years  back. 

The  European  school  is  well  represented  in  the  third  by 
copies  and  originals,  containing,  among  others,  three  by  Ru- 
bens, one  a  large  Descent  from  the  Cross ;  a  Saint  John  of  God, 
by  Murillo;  one  Titian;  three  paintings  from  the  school  of 
Leonardo  da  Vinci;  the  Olympic  Games,  by  Charles  Vernet; 
an  Episode  of  the  Deluge,  by  Coglieti ;  Saint  Jerome,  by 
Alonzo  Cano ;  a  Saint  Sebastian,  attributed  to  Van  Dyck ;  a 
Virgin  by  Perugino ;  and  another  by  Pietro  de  Cortona ;  an 
Odalisque,  by  Decaen ;  and  several  pictures  from  the  Flemish 
and  Dutch  schools. 

But  though  an  artist  might  linger  longest  in  these  galleries, 
the  fourth  and  fifth  saloons  possess  greater  charms  for  the  lover 
of  Mexico  and  the  student  of  her  progress,  for  they  are  devoted 
to  the  works  of  the  modern  Mexican  school.  The  fourth  con- 
tains those  beautiful  paintings  of  the  valley  of  Mexico,  rendered 
so  faithfully,  pictured  so  entrancingly,  by  the  renowned  Velasco, 
and  which  were  exhibited  by  the  government  at  the  Centennial 
Exposition  in  the  United  States.     One  would  not  need  go  to 


A   DAY    IN   THE   MUSEUMS.  325 

Mexico  to  see  that  wonderful  valley,  if  he  could  obtain  those 
glorious  paintings.  The  ceiling  of  the  fifth  and  largest  is 
adorned  with  medallions  containing  men  famous  in  science  and 
art.  In  the  centre  is  a  grand  painting,  one  I  have  long  desired 
to  see  placed  upon  canvas  by  an  American  descendant  of  the 
mother  of  the  New  World,  —  Columbus  presenting  the  fruits  of 
his  first  voyage  to  Isabella  and  Ferdinand.  Such  a  Columbus, 
and  such  a  queen  !  And  the  Indians,  timorous,  yet  with  their 
native  dignity  clothing  them  as  with  a  mantle.  They  bring  to 
mind  the  picture  painted  by  the  poet,  where  Madoc  describes 
them  to  his  friends  in  Wales :  — 

"  What  men  were  they  ?     Of  dark  brown  color,  tinged 
With  sunny  redness  ;  wild  of  eye  ;  their  brows 
So  smooth,  as  never  yet  anxiety 
Nor  busy  thought  had  made  a  furrow  there  ; 
Beardless,  and  each  to  each  of  lineaments 
So  like,  they  seemed  but  one  great  family. 
Their  loins  were  loosely  cinctured,  all  beside 
Bare  to  the  sun  and  wind  ;  and  thus  their  limbs, 
Unmanacled,  displayed  the  truest  forms 
Of  strength  and  beauty." 

At  the  farther  end,  by  itself,  as  if  worthy  a  special  niche  in 
this  Mexican  temple  of  fame,  —  as  it  is,  —  one  sees  the  famous 
work  of  the  young  artist,  Felix  Parra,  "  Las  Casas  Protecting 
the  Indians,"  —  Las  Casas,  good  Bishop  of  Chiapas,  whose  life 
was  passed  fruitlessly  fighting  the  enemies  of  the  Indian.  It 
must  have  been  a  genius  of  more  than  ordinary  grasp  (though 
it  requires  not  much  study  to  find  a  conception  worthy  one's 
highest  effort  in  the  history  of  oppressed  Mexico)  who  could 
thus  have  pictured  the  immortal  Bishop  and  his  down-trodden 
people.  It  seems,  indeed,  that  the  Mexican  artist  succeeds 
best  when  he  devotes  himself  to  historic  scenes,  for  which  he 
has  a  rich  field  in  the  conquest  of  his  own  country.  In  the 
"Massacre  in  the  Temple"  we  have  a  confirmation  of  this.  How 
vividly  he  has  succeeded  in  portraying  the  leading  figures  in 
that  ruthless  slaughter,  when  Alvarado,  taking  advantage  of  the 
absence  of  Cortes  from  the  city,  fell  upon  the  Mexican  nobles, 
their  wives  and  children,  and  murdered  them  mercilessly. 


326  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

"The  Capture  of  Cortes  "  at  Xichimilco  is  strong  and  spirited. 
It  brings  to  mind  that  dreadful  day  when  the  Aztecs  wellnigh 
gained  a  victory,  and  Cortes  himself,  struggling  in  the  grasp 
of  brawny  Indians,  would  have  been  hurried  to  the  temple  of 
sacrifice  but  for  the  opportune  arrival  of  two  of  his  brave  sol- 
diers. It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  sons  of  Mexico  will  hence- 
forth break  away  from  blindly  copying  saints,  cherubs,  angels, 
and  ecclesiastics,  and  devote  their  genius  to  the  study  of  the 
thousand  stirring  episodes  in  the  history  of  their  own  country. 
Already  we  see  that  it  was  not  in  vain  that  the  king  of  Spain 
established  here  this  school  of  art;  although  its  disciples  owe 
him  and  his  successors  allegiance  no  longer,  yet  the  world  at 
large  will  receive  the  benefit. 


XVII. 

THE    MARKETS   AND    FLOATING   GARDENS. 

FROM  the  art  gallery  it  is  not  a  long  stride  to  the  markets, 
for  they  are  only  around  the  corner  of  the  Palace,  and 
though  one  may  not  find  there  pictures  by  old  masters,  he  may 
obtain  plenty  of  material  for  new  sketches.  The  companion 
of  Cortes,  to  whom  I  have  before  referred,  has  a  description  of 
the  market-place  of  the  capital  as  it  appeared  to  that  chief- 
tain in  the  year  15 19.  It  affords  interesting  matter  for  com- 
parison with  the  condition  of  the  same  place  at  the  present 
day.  "  We  were  astonished  at  the  crowds  of  people  and  the 
regularity  which  prevailed,  as  well  as  at  the  vast  quantities  of 
merchandise  which  those  who  attended  us  were  assiduous  in 
pointing  out.  Each  kind  had  its  particular  place,  which  was 
distinguished  by  a  sign.  The  articles  consisted  of  gold,  sil- 
ver, jewels,  feathers,  mantles,  chocolate,  skins  dressed  and 
undressed,  sandals,  and  great  numbers  of  male  and  female 
slaves,  some  of  whom  were  fastened  by  the  neck,  in  collars,  to 
long  poles.  The  meat  market  was  stocked  with  fowls,  game, 
and  dogs.  Vegetables,  fruits,  articles  of  food  ready  dressed, 
salt,  bread,  honey,  and  sweet  pastry  made  in  various  ways,  were 
also  sold  here.  Other  places  in  the  square  were  appointed  to 
the  sale  of  earthen  ware,  wooden  household  furniture  such  as 
tables  and  benches,  firewood,  paper,  sweet  canes  filled  with  to- 
bacco mixed  with  liquidambar,  copper  axes  and  working  tools, 
and  wooden  vessels  highly  painted.  Numbers  of  women  sold 
fish  and  little  loaves  made  of  a  certain  mud  which  they  find  in 
the  lakes,  and  which  resembles  cheese.  The  makers  of  stone 
blades  were   busily  employed   shaping  them   out  of  the   rough 


328 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


material,  and  the  merchants  who  dealt  in  gold  had  the  metal  in 
grains  as  it  came  from  the  mines,  in  transparent  quills,  and  the 
o-old  was  valued  at  so  many  mantles  or  so  many  xiqinpils  of 
cocoa  according  to  the  size  of  the  quills.  The  entire  square  was 
enclosed  in  piazzas,  under  which  great  quantities  of  grain  were 
stored,  and  where  were  also  shops  for  various  kinds  of  goods." 

Behind  the  Palace,  south  of  the  long  pile 
of  buildings  occupied  by  the  President  of 
Mexico  and  his  troops,  is  now  the  principal 
market  of  the  city.  It  is  enclosed  by  high 
stone  walls,  and  there  are  entrances  through 
four    gates    leading    from    as    many   streets. 


As  in  the  time  of 
Bernal  Diaz,  the 
outer  portion  of  this 
enclosed  square  is 
occupied  by  shops 
and  projecting  piaz- 
zas, beneath  which 
are  exposed  for  sale 
the  different  prod- 
ucts and  manufac- 
tures    of     Mexico ; 

and  the  central  portion  is  occupied  by  natives,  squatted  beneath 
the  shade  of  squares  of  matting  stretched  over  frameworks,  and 
each  square  supported  by  a  single  pole,  like  a  rude  umbrella. 
Slaves,  and  gold,  and  precious  jewels,  and  feather-work,  are  no 
longer  sold  in  the  market ;  for  the  articles  vended  here  are  con- 
fined within  the  range  of  those  desired   for  the  table   and  for 


SCENE    IN    THE    MARKET. 


THE   MARKETS   AND   FLOATING  GARDENS. 


329 


household  use.  But  what  a  variety  !  It  reminds  one  of  what  he 
has  noticed  in  coming  up  to  this  high  table-land  of  Mexico  from 
the  coast,  namely,  that 
this  country  can  boast 
of  almost  every  climate, 
ev^ery  variety  of  scenery, 
and  the  products  of  ev- 
ery zone,  from  arctic  to 
torrid. 

Several  zinc  roofs, 
supported  upon  stone 
pillars,  give  shelter  to 
crowded  stalls  and  cover 
every  kind  of  merchan- 
dise, from  a  squash- 
seed  to  a  wooden  spoon. 
The  entire  enclosure  is 
densely  packed  with  hu- 
man beings,  especially  in 
the  morning,  when  the 
purchases  are  mostly 
made.  The  men  and 
women  that  do  business 
here  bring  their  entire 
families  with  them,  and 
for  the  day  live  here  as 
at  home.  The  markets 
are  divided  into  the  vari- 
ous portions  devoted  to 
fruit,  vegetables,  and  ar- 
ticles for  household  use. 
Upon  mats  spread  on 
the  stone  pavement  each 
vender   spreads    his    or 

her  stock  in  trade,  regardless  of  the  space  necessary  to  the 
customer  in  threading  his  way  through  this  miscellaneous  as- 
semblage. 


HIS   OWN    HANDIWORK. 


330  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

In  going  tlirough  this  market  one  Sunday  morning,  I  jotted 
down  the  different  varieties  of  fruits  and  vegetables,  as  I  saw 
them,  on  the  margin  of  a  newspaper:  and  here  is  the  hst,  tran- 
scribed as  it  ran  there.  First,  after  passing  the  dealers  in  fried 
meats,  who  are  constantly  dishing  out  scraps  of  pork  and 
shreds  of  beef  sizzling  in  fat  to  dirty  leperos  in  sombreros  and 
sarapes,  stationed  at  the  gate,  you  encounter  the  fruit  stalls 
and  vegetable  stands.  There  are  limes,  fragrant  as  any  grown 
in  West  Indian  gardens,  but  without  their  plumpness  and  flavor; 
they  perfume  the  air  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  not^vithstanding 
the  sewage  odors  and  the  flaunting  of  vile  garments  that  smell 
to  heaven ;  close  by  are  pears,  —  here  are  two  zones  brought 
close  together,  —  but  these  pears  are  not  equal  to  those  of 
northern  climates ;  cherries  peculiar  to  the  country,  shad- 
docks, mangos,  bananas,  plantains,  oranges,  —  all  from  the 
tierras  calicntcs,  or  hot  lands,  whence  also  come  the  coco-nuts 
and  pine-apples  that  lie  in  heaps  on  the  pavement ;  these  last 
are  very  dear,  approaching  prices  asked  in  New  York,  owing  to 
the  great  expense  of  transportation  over  t^vo  hundred  miles  of 
railroad;  babies  —  not  from  the  tierras  calientcs  —  who  keep 
decidedly  cool  and  comfortable,  whether  lying  kicking  on  their 
mother's  mats  or  peering  from  the  rebo.-:os  in  which  they  are 
confined  to  their  mothers'  backs;  melons,  peaches,  wooden 
bowls,  buckets,  mats,  babies;  poultry,  fish,  babies;  lettuce, 
babies,  crockery,  tomatoes,  peppers,  babies,  beans,  radishes, 
potatoes,  babies  without  a  rag  on  them;  onions,  leeks,  cab- 
bages, corn,  babies  with  nothing  on  them  but  rags ;  peas,  car- 
rots, beets,  squashes,  artichokes,  babies  lean  and  emaciated; 
birds,  children,  pumpkin-seeds,  babies  fat  as  a  post-office  con- 
tract; Indians,  with  great  coops  of  chickens  on  their  backs, 
leading  babies  by  the  hand ;  donkeys,  with  great  panniers  of 
vegetables  or  charcoal,  with  babies  as  crowning  curiosities; 
crockery  venders  with  huge  crates  of  earthen  jars  and  pots. 
In  fact,  there  are  here  the  products  of  every  zone  and  clime, 
and  all  the  productions  of  mother  earth. 

It  is  with  pleasure  that  one  turns  from  this  heterogeneous  as- 
semblage of  the  natural  and  artificial  products  of  Mexico,  —  from 


THE   MARKETS   AND    FLOATING   GARDENS.  331 

the  place  whence  his  landlady  draws  the  crude  material  for  the 
nourishment  of  his  inner  man,  —  to  a  little  iron-roofed  struc- 
ture in  the  Plaza.  There  are  many  plazas  in  Mexico,  but  only 
one  Plaza  Mayor,  overlooked  by  the  great  cathedral,  and  con- 
taining the  Zocalo,  or  promenade  of  the  upper  classes.  On  the 
western  side  of  the  square  is  the  flower  market,  surrounded  by 
an  atmosphere  of  delightful  fragrance. 

The  love  of  flowers  is  a  redeeming  trait  in  the  character  of  the 
Aztec  of  to-day.  It  has  survived  the  oppressions  of  three  hun- 
dred years,  and  the  exactions  of  two  centuries  of  Spanish  task- 
masters. The  priests,  in  their  anxiety  for  converts,  allowed  the 
Indians  to  retain  many  of  their  old  forms  of  worship,  the  least 
objectionable  one  of  which  was  the  expression  of  their  adoration 
through  the  medium  of  flowers.  Barbaric  dances,  glitter,  and 
display  are  necessarily  a  part  of  their  worship,  not  all  of  which 
were  derived  from  their  ancient  religion.  It  is  said  that,  long 
after  the  overthrow  of  their  gods,  the  Indians  would  visit  by 
stealth  their  prostrate  war-god,  the  terrible  Huitzilopochtli,  and 
surround  him  with  garlands  of  flowers.  Enter  any  church, 
cathedral,  or  chapel,  and  you  will  find  flowers  in  profusion 
placed  before  the  images  of  the  Virgin.  Not  only  this,  but 
off'erings  of  the  first-fruits  of  their  fields ;  small  clumps  of 
golden  wheat  and  barley,  maize  and  clover.  I  might  add, 
quoting  Prescott,  that  among  the  Aztecs  "  the  public  taxes 
were  often  paid  in  agricultural  produce," — which  fact  estab- 
lishes a  precedent  for  the  custom  prevailing  in  our  own  country, 
of  paying  one's  subscription  to  a  country  paper  in  vegetables 
instead  of  cash. 

But  to  return  to  the  flower  market.  Inside  it  is  full  of  men 
and  women  arranging  flowers,  great  heaps  of  which  cover  the 
floor.  Their  innate  taste  for  such  work  is  exhibited  in  their 
delicacy  of  arrangement  and  delightful  combinations  of  color, 
though  the  profusion  of  flowers  induces  them  sometimes  to 
consider  quantity  rather  than  quality.  The  cheapness  of 
these  beauties  is  wonderful :  button-hole  bouquets  of  violets  or 
pansies,  three  cents,  or  even  less ;  one  boy  had  bunches  which 
he  was  offering  for  two   cents,  —  "  Tlaco,  senor,  tlaco  !  "     From 


332  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

curiosity,  desiring  to  ascertain  how  many  flowers  composed  one 
of  the  huge  bouquets  offered  for  sale,  I  bought  one.  The  man 
asked  four  rcalcs  (fifty  cents) ;  I  gave  him  two,  and  gave  a  boy 
three  cents  to  carry  it  to  my  room.  In  the  privacy  of  that 
apartment  I  dissected  that  bouquet,  as  an  anatomist  would  take 
to  pieces  the  human  frame,  to  find  out  what  composed  it.  There 
were  thirty  red  roses,  fifty  white  ones,  twenty-eight  violets,  thirty 
heliotropes,  twenty  white  rosebuds  and  thirty  pink  ones,  the 
whole  forming  a  solid  pyramid  of  flowers,  capped  by  three  red 
roses,  one  metre  twenty  centimetres  in  circumference  and  twenty 
centimetres  high.  There  were  one  hundred  and  ninety-one 
flowers,  besides  the  trimming  of  leaves  at  the  base  and  an  orna- 
mented holder  of  fancifully  cut  paper.  I  leave  to  my  readers 
to  calculate  what  this  would  cost  in  New  York,  at  the  time  I 
bought  it,  on  the  8th  day  of  May;  but  for  those  hundred  and 
ninety-one  flowers  I  paid  only  the  sum  of  twenty-five  cents  ! 

Flowers  bloom  here  all  the  year  round,  one  crop  following 
and  intermingling  with  the  other ;  but,  as  in  the  North,  May  and 
June  are  the  months  for  roses.  From  the  high  plains  of  Tlas- 
cala  to  the  border  of  the  sea  may  be  traced  the  blossoming  of 
the  beautiful  that  pervades  all  nature,  whether  the  country  be 
traversed  in  January  or  June,  in  August  or  December. 

One  wonders,  as  he  sees  the  vast  floral  display,  whence  all 
these  flowers  are  obtained,  and  it  is  only  by  seeking  the  out- 
skirts of  the  city  and  the  canal  of  Chalco  that  he  will  be  grati- 
fied. Taking  the  horse-cars  at  the  Plaza  for  the  paseo  of  La 
Viga,  one  reaches  a  bridge  spanning  a  canal,  one  of  the  few 
water-ways  that  yet  exist  in  this  city.  The  famous  "  floating 
gardens  "  are  always  just  beyond  the  eye,  floating  a  little  farther 
on ;  if  one  is  at  the  Viga  bridge,  they  are  down  the  canal  at 
Santa  Anita ;  at  the  latter  place,  they  are  at  Xochimilco ;  and 
there  one  will  hear  of  them  as  at  Lake  Chalco.  But  there  are 
"  floating  gardens  "  near  the  canal,  only  they  do  not  float,  never 
did  float,  and  never  will  float.  One  arrives  at  La  Viga,  and  is  at 
once  pounced  upon  by  a  set  of  gondoliers  almost  as  ravenous 
as  Hell  Gate  pilots.  They  surround  one  and  call  his  attention 
to  their  gondolas,  said  gondolas  being  what  people  of  the  North 


THE   MARKETS   AND    FLOATING   GARDENS. 


333 


would  call  mud-scows.  Into  one  of  these  picturesque  arks  some 
of  the  boatmen  succeed  in  dragging  the  explorer,  and,  after 
waiting  half  an  hour  till  they  have  secured  a  load,  and  the 
benches  are  alive  with  Indians  and  fleas,  they  push  off  from  the 
bank,  worming  their  way  amongst  a  hundred  other  mud-scows, 
and  the  voyager  finds  himself  afloat  upon  the  waters  of  the 
"  raging  canal."  Then  he  gives  himself  up 
to  the  enjoyment  of  the  hour,  revelling  in 
pictures  of  the  "  Venice  of  the  "Western 
\\orld,"^ — fancying  the  Mexicans  in  their 
disguise  of  dirt,  — dirt,  the  war-paint  of  the 


CANAL   OF   LA    VIGA. 

true  Venetian,  —  as  they  swiftly  pass  in  their  light  canoes 
(shaped  like  a  bread-trough),  — fancying,  I  say,  that  they  are 
the  noble  Aztecs,  —  as,  take  them  for  what  their  remote  ma- 
ternal ancestors  may  have  been,  they  certainly  are.  Thus  the 
gondola  glides  gently  over  the  waves,  the  passenger  indulges  in 

1  Prescott  did  not  originate  this  phrase;  we  find  it  in  Clavigero  (i8th  century), 
and  in  others:  "The  situation  of  this  city  is  much  like  that  of  Venice."— Th. 
Gage,  1626. 


334 


TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 


day-dreams  of  Venice,  and  that  sort  of  thing,  until  all  at  once 
he  finds  that  the  canoe  has  ceased  gliding,  and  he  looks  out  and 
sees  his  degenerate  gondoliers  engaged  in  a  struggle  to '  the 
death  with  a  mud-bank,  and  stirring  up  with  their  setting-poles 
—  for  the  true  gondolier  in  the  American  Venice  does  not  pad- 
dle, but  poles  —  such  an  accumulation  of  unutterable  odors, 
that  his  very  hair  stands  on  end  with  surprise.  Then  the  gon- 
dola is  pushed  away  from  the  mud-bank  and  glides  some  more ; 
and  all  the  while  other  boats  are  passing  and  repassing,  and 
making  it  lively  and  wholesome  on  that  canal. 

To  a  man  with  strong  nerves,  if  he  can  survive  an  hour  with- 
out drawing  a  full  breath,  this  boating  on  the  canal  is  a  pro- 
tracted delight.  Aside  from  the  picturesque  crowd  on  the 
banks,  there  are  boats  crowded  with  Indians  indulging  in  native 
dances  and  playing  native  airs  on  guitars  and  rude  instruments. 
A  party  of  them  will  charter  a  flat-boat  and  convert  it  into  a 
miniature  ball-room,  while  the  lookers  on  along  the  banks,  and 
even  the  boatmen,  will  dance  to  the  music  as  they  run  along  the 
boat  with  their  setting-poles. 

Down  near  the  end  of  the  pasco  is  a  bust  of  Guatemotzin, 
the  unhappy  Emperor  of  the  Aztecs  for  a  brief  period,  —  long 
enough,  however,  to  witness  the  destruction  of  his  nation. 
Repenting  that  their  ancestors  should  have  caused  him  the 
trouble  they  did,  that  they  should  have  murdered  millions  of 
his  subjects,  that  they  should  have  burned  his  feet  to  a  crisp 
for  nothing,  that  Cortes  should  have  finally  hanged  him  in  the 
wilds  of  Yucatan,  the  descendants  of  the  conquerors  have  made 
all  amends  in  their  power  by  putting  Guatemotzin  on  a  perpet- 
ual bust.  He  looks  out  over  the  eastern  plains,  toward  the 
rising  sun,  whence  came  the  Spanish  demons  that  made  a  hell 
of  his  paradise. 

Still  the  gondola  glides  over  the  green  waters  of  the  canal, 
between  green  banks  lined  with  trees,  beneath  a  rude  and 
srched  bridge  of  stone,  over  more  water  and  amongst  swarms 
of  boats,  to  Santa  Anita.  Here  one  disembarks,  and  passing 
through  a  miserable  mud  village  takes  another  canoe,  and  is 
poled  among  the  "  floating  gardens." 


THE   MARKETS   AND    FLOATING   GARDENS. 


335 


And  what  are  they?  Why,  they  are  beds  of  earth,  of  greater 
or  less  extent,  and  of  varying  height,  with  ditches  cut  through 
them ;  they  are  gay  with  flowers,  fringed  with  trees,  and  as 
neatly  kept  as  the  best  kitchen  garden  in  New  York.  It  is 
true  that  the  gardener  floats  among  them  in  his  canoe  while  he 
gathers  his  vegetables  and  loads  his  boat  with  them,  and  then 
carries  them  to  market.  But  the  gardens. are  solid;  they  may 
shake  a  bit  if  one  jumps  on  them,  because  they  are  boggy, 
even  as  a  cranberry  bed  is,  or  a  section  of  meadow   land.     But 


FROM   THE   FLOATING   GARDENS. 


they  are  gay  with  flowers,   and   here  it   is   that   many  of  those 
exposed  in  the  market  are  raised. 

So  many  have  denied  the  existence  of  the  ancient  chinain- 
pas,  or  veritable  floating  gardens,  that  I  would  extend  our  trip 
yet  farther  down  the  canal,  and  into  the  two  great  fresh-water 
lakes,  Xochimilco  —  the  flowering  field  —  and  Chalco,  where  we 
shall  in  very  truth  encounter  them.  I  have  described  the  chi- 
nampas  that,  though  perhaps  once  vagrant,  are  now  fixed  in 
position  and  doing  duty  as  kitchen  gardens.  To  one  who 
has  read  the  history  of  the   Aztec  irruption  into  the  Mexican 


336  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

valley,  of  their  wanderings  on  the  lake  borders  for  years,  the 
shifts  they  were  put  to  to  obtain  even  the  vilest  food,  as  they 
were  driven  away  from  solid  and  fertile  soil  by  other  tribes,  it 
does  not  seem  improbable  that  their  necessities  should  have 
driven  them  to  avail  themselves  of  the  floating  islands  of  bul- 
rush and  reeds  set  adrift  by  the  storms  of  the  rainy  season. 

The  canal  leading  from  Mexico  into  the  lakes  was  formerly 
the  great  route  for  all  the  native  trade  from  Cuernavaca  and  the 
south  by  the  way  of  Chalco,  and  in  the  towns  of  Xochimilco 
and  Mexicalcingo  we  find  now  Aztecs  of  purest  blood,  speaking 
their  own  unadulterated  language.  The  lakes  are  filled  with 
marsh,  and  are  not  open,  but  traversed  by  countless  water-ways 
called  acalotes,  or  canals.  The  floating  gardens  are  cut  from 
this  vast  mat  of  vegetation,  called  the  ciiita,  which  is  composed 
of  a  multitude  of  water  plants,  as  the  tida,  or  bulrush,  liliums, 
water  ranunculuses,  polygonums,  etc.,  —  over  twenty  species  in 
number,  —  and  which  is  said  to  have  no  attachment  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  lake.  A  body  of  the  cinta,  in  shape  a  parallelogram, 
is  cut  out  by  the  Indians,  and  the  mud  dredged  up  from  the 
lake  bottom  poured  over  it  until  a  deep  deposit  is  formed  of 
the  richest  soil  in  the  world.  This  is  constantly  renewed,  as 
the  garden  sinks  deeper  and  deeper,  until  finally  perhaps  it 
finds  a  resting-place,  and  becomes  immovable.  But  when 
freshly  made  it  undoubtedly  floats,  and  may  even  be  dragged 
from  its  original  position,  in  order  that  the  Indian  gardener  may 
have  free  access  to  all  sides  of  it  in  his  canoe.  In  time  of 
storms,  the  navigation  of  these  lakes  is  rendered  dangerous  by 
detached  masses  of  the  cinta,  called  bandoleros,  which  some- 
times float  into  the  canals,  cutting  ofi"  all  communication,  and 
imprisoning  the  boatmen  within  walls  that  cannot  be  scaled  or 
penetrated. 

Between  the  ridges  that  separate  Chalco  and  Xochimilco 
from  the  salt  Tezcoco  (see  Frontispiece)  is  pointed  out  to-day 
that  hill  celebrated  in  Aztec  history.  La  Estrella,  or  the  Hill 
of  the  Star.  It  was  to  this  point  that  the  Aztecs,  at  the  mem- 
orable period  known  as  the  termination  of  their  cycle,  wended 
their  way  in  long  processions,  headed  by  the  priests,  and  built 


THE   MARKETS   AND    FLOATING   GARDENS.  337 

on  its  summit  the  7iew  fire.  Here  the  wretched  victim  of 
their  superstition  was  slain,  and  hence  was  carried  the  flame 
that  was  to  rekindle  their  extinguished  fires,  and  carry  light 
and  joy  throughout  the  kingdoms  of  Anahuac. 


HILL    OF    LA    ESTRELLA. 


In  the  centre  of  the  largest  lake,  Chalco,  lies  a  small,  though 
interesting  island,  connected  by  a  causeway  with  the  mainland. 
This  is  Tlahuac,  visited  by  Cortes  and  his  soldiers  on  their  way 
to  Mexico  in  15 19,  and  described  by  the  historian  of  the  expe- 
dition. Beneath  the  water  of  the  lake,  it  is  affirmed  by  recent 
travellers,  lie  the  buildings  of  the  ancient  city.  Opposite  this 
island  is  Xico,  likewise  an  ancient  Indian  town,  and  at  the 
base  of  an  extinct  volcano,  the  crater  of  which  is  planted  with 
corn. 


338  TRAVELS    IX    MEXICO. 

At  the  extremity  of  Lake  Chalco  lies  a  most  attractive  town 
surrounded  by  a  perfect  halo  of  history.  Chalco,  the  former 
residence  of  powerful  native  kings,  is  built  upon  a  plain,  and 
saw  its  best  days  many  years  ago,  if  we  may  judge  by  the 
ruinous  state  of  the  houses,  with  battered  mud  walls  and  going 
to  decay.  A  fine  old  church,  containing  interesting  paintings 
and  statuary,  is  sharing  the  general  ruin.  There  is  no  hotel 
in  the  village,  and  the  market-place  is  almost  always  desolate. 
This  town  once  stood  on  the  borders  of  the  great  lake  of 
Chalco,  the  body  of  fresh  water  that  poured  a  volume  into 
Lake  Tezcoco,  through  the  lake  and  canal  of  Xochimilco.  But 
now  the  lake  is  miles  away,  and  only  reached  by  canals  cut 
through  the  sea  of  marshes.  The  inhabitants  of  the  place  have 
commerce  with  Mexico  by  canoes,  and  carry  there  fruits  and 
flowers,  though  it  is  a  day's  journey  distant.  Fields  of  pulque, 
gardens,  and  trees  surround  Chalco  on  three  sides,  and  in  front 
is  the  marsh. 

Long  before  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards  was  Chalco  cele- 
brated in  Mexican  history.  Her  cacique,  or  lord,  was  once  an 
independent  ruler,  like  those  of  Tezcoco  and  Mexico,  but  in 
the  early  part  of  the  fifteenth  century  he  arrogantly  slew  two 
royal  princes  of  Tezcoco,  and  brought  down  upon  himself  and 
his  people  the  vengeance  of  the  three  kings,  of  Mexico,  Tez- 
coco, and  Tlacopan.  He  richly  merited,  it  seems,  the  punish- 
ment they  dealt  out  to  him,  as  he  not  only  refused  his  royal 
victims  burial,  but  caused  their  bodies  to  be  cured  and  dried 
and  placed  in  the  principal  room  of  his  palace  as  torch-bearers. 
The  united  kings  sacked  the  city,  killed  the  cacique,  and  the 
people  were  added  to  the  subjects  of  the  Mexican  crown. 
Some  years  later  they  provoked  another  invasion,  when  their 
city  was  destroyed  and  the  inhabitants  driven  to  the  hills,  where 
they  lived  for  many  years  in  caves ;  —  and  perhaps  these  cave- 
dwellers  of  the  same  sierras  may  be  their  descendants.  From 
the  summits  of  the  hills  about  us  flashed  the  fires  built  by 
Montezuma  to  warn  them  of  the  war  of  extermination  that  he 
was  about  to  wage  upon  them.  But  it  was  not  many  years  later 
that  these  Chalchese  had  their  revenge,  when  they   assisted  at 


THE   MARKETS   AND   FLOATING   GARDENS.  339 

the  destruction  of  the  stronghold  of  their  hated  enemies ;  for 
they  were  among  the  first  of  the  Indians  to  ally  themselves 
with  the  conqnistadores  after  Cortes  had  established  himself  in 
Tezcoco  and  sat  down  to  the  investment  of  the  capital  city. 

The  best  fishing  on  the  lakes  is  near  the  town  of  Ayotla 
(reached  over  the  Morelos  Railroad),  where  the  poor  people 
subsist  almost  entirely  upon  the  products  of  the  water  and 
marshes.  It  is  an  inherited  taste,  this  depraved  one  of  the 
present  Aztecs,  —  a  relic  of  those  times  when  they  wandered  as 
vagrants  on  the  lake  margins,  when  they  ate  frogs,  tadpoles, 
salamanders,  the  pith  of  the  bulrush,  and  a  thousand  things  un- 
heard of  among  us.  There  is  no  more  peculiar  product  of  the 
Mexican  lakes  than  that  marsh  fly  called  axayacatl  {A/mailea 
Mexicana) ,  which  deposits  its  eggs  in  incredible  quantities  upon 
flags  and  rushes,  and  which  are  eagerly  sought  out  and  made 
into  cakes  which  are  sold  in  the  markets.  Says  that  festive 
monk,  Thomas  Gage,  who  visited  Mexico  in  1625,  "The  Indians 
gathered  much  of  this  and  kept  it  in  Heaps,  and  made  thereof 
Cakes,  like  unto  Brickbats,  ....  and  they  did  eat  this  Meal  with 
as  good  a  Stomach  as  we  eat  Cheese ;  yea,  and  they  hold  opin- 
ion that  this  Scum  or  fatness  of  the  water  is  the  cause  that  such 
great  number  of  Fowl  cometh  to  the  Lake,  which  in  the  winter 
season  is  infinite." 

These  cakes  "  like  unto  brickbats "  are  sold  in  the  markets 
to  this  day,  and  the  black  heaps  of  the  aliiiauhtli,  or  "  water- 
wheat,"  may  be  frequently  seen  dotting  the  mud  flats  about 
the  lakes,  Tezcoco  especially.  The  insects  themselves  (which 
are  about  the  size  of  a  house-fly)  are  pounded  into  a  paste, 
—  as  they  are  collected  in  myriads,  —  boiled  in  corn  husks, 
and  thus  sold.  The  eggs,  resembling  fine  fish  roe,  are  com- 
pressed into  a  paste,  mixed  with  eggs  of  fowls,  and  form  a  staple 
article  of  food  particularly  called  for  during  Lent. 

The  Indians  of  the  Mexican  lakes  have  a  systematic  method, 
by  which  they  plant  bundles  of  reeds  a  few  feet  apart,  with 
their  tops  sticking  out  of  the  water.  The  insects  deposit  their 
eggs  upon  these  reeds  in  such  quantities  that  they  not  only 
cover  them,  but  depend  in  clusters.    When  completely  covered, 


340 


TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 


these  bundles  are  removed  from  the  water,  shaken  over  a  sheet, 
and  replaced  for  a  fresh  deposit.  Paxi  are  the  larvse  of  the 
axayacatly  yellowish-white  worms,  which  are  also  eaten,  being 
prepared  for  the  table  in  various  ways.  Axayacatl,  by  the  way, 
signifies  "water-face,"  and  is  the  symbol  and  name  of  the  sixth 
king  of  Mexico,  who  entered  upon  his  reign  about  the  year 
1464,  and  continued  in  power  thirteen  years. 

There  is  one  more  denizen  of  these  waters  which  we  should 
not  pass  by  without  a  reference.     Though  there  are  no  fish  in 

the  great  salt  lake,  Tez- 
coco,  a  compensation  for 
their  absence  is  obtained 
by  the  presence  there  of 
I  most  remarkable  reptile, 
the  axolotl  {Siredoii  licJie- 
Jioides).  It  is  a  water  lizard, 
a  batrachian  of  the  "  am- 
blystoma  type  of  salaman- 
ders," resembling  a  fish  in 
shape,  but  with  four  legs 
with  webbed  feet,  and  a  long,  compressed  tail.  The  gills  form 
three  feather-like  processes  on  either  side  the  neck,  and  the 
tongue  is  broad  and  cartilaginous.  In  color  it  is  of  a  mixed 
black  and  white,  and  is  about  ten  inches  in  length. 

This  most  hideous  protean  is  eaten  by  the  Indians  of  Mexico, 
as  its  flesh  is  white  and  resembles  that  of  an  eel,  and  is  quite 
savory  and  wholesome.  Its  Aztec  name,  axolotl,  is  pronounced 
dh-ho-lotl,  and  is  to-day  called  ajolote} 

It  is  by  a  devious  path  that  we  have  reached  the  next  subject 
of  which  I  would  write ;  but  as  it  was  one  of  the  favorite  bev- 
erages of  the  most  ancient  Aztecs,  and  valued  by  them  even 
above  the  toothsome  axolotl,  I  am  constrained  in  this  connec- 
tion to  describe  the  Mexican  national  drink,  pulque,  and  the 
maguey  of  the  great  plateaux. 

From  the  earliest  times,  the  inhabitants  of  earth  have  pre- 

1  In  the  "Smithsonian  Report"  for  1877  is  a  paper  on  the  "Change  of  the  Mex- 
ican Axolotl  to  an  Amblystoma,"  —  a  valuable  contribution. 


AXOLOTL. 


THE   MARKETS   AND   FLOATING   GARDENS.  341 

pared  stimulating  and  refreshing  drinks  from  various  plants, 
seeds,  and  fruits.  This  beverage,  pulque,  has  been  so  long  in 
use  on  the  Mexican  table-land  that  its  origin  is  involved  in  the 
obscurity  of  fable.  It  cannot  be  told  when  it  was  first  drank, 
nor  whence  it  derived  its  present  appellation.  The  Aztecs  gave 
it  the  name  of  neutli  and  octli,  while  the  plant  itself,  the  maguey, 
was  called  metl.  One  interpreter  of  the  Mexican  hieroglyphics 
asserts  that  the  god  Izquitecatl  first  extracted  the  life-giving 
juice  of  the  maguey,  while  the  Toltec  annals,  as  usually  inter- 
preted, ascribe  its  discovery  to  a  prince  of  the  royal  blood  of 
that  line.  A  pretty  fable  is  related  of  its  discovery  in  connec- 
tion with  their  somewhat  mythical  chronicles.  A  noble  Toltec, 
named  Papantzin,  found  out  the  method  of  extracting  the  juice 
from  the  maguey,  and  sent  some  of  it  to  his  sovereign,  Tecpan- 
caltzin,  as  a  present,  by  his  daughter,  the  beautiful  XochitI,  the 
flower  of  Tollan.  Enamored  alike  of  the  drink  and  the  maiden, 
the  king,  wishing  to  monopolize  both,  retained  the  lovely  Xo- 
chitI a  willing  prisoner,  and  in  after  years  placed  their  illegiti- 
mate son  upon  the  throne.  This  was  the  beginning  of  the 
troubles  of  the  Toltecs,  who  had  then  enjoyed  peace  for  many 
years,  in  about  the  year  1000;  it  led  to  their  eventual  disper- 
sion and  extinction,  brought  about  by  the  hand  of  woman,  and 
through  the  means  of  drink.  Through  all  his  disasters,  how- 
ever, the  Indian  clung  to  his  pulque,  each  generation  adding  to 
the  acres  of  maguey  planted  by  its  ancestors,  and  at  the  present 
time  its  consumption  has  reached  enormous  proportions. 

The  maguey,  from  which  the  pulque  is  produced,  though 
native  to  Mexico,  is  found  growing  in  our  own  country,  yet  not 
in  any  great  abundance.  But  on  the  great  Mexican  uplands  — 
those  high  plains  that  stretch  from  mountain  to  mountain  at  an 
elevation  of  more  than  seven  thousand  feet  above  the  sea  —  is 
the  dwelling-place  of  the  maguey.  You  see  it  first  in  abundance 
when  about  one  hundred  miles  from  the  valley  of  Mexico,  on 
the  plains  of  Apam.  When  the  Spaniards  first  came  here,  in 
1 5 19,  the  native  Mexicans  had  the  maguey,  of  which  they  made 
almost  as  many  uses  as  the  South-Sea  Islander  does  of  the  coco- 
palm,  namely,  a  hundred. 


342 


TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 


It  is  said  that  there  are  thirty-three  species  of  this  plant  grow- 
ing on  these  broad  plains.^  The  best  plants  yield  liquor  for  six 
months  after  being  tapped.  From  the  leaves,  root,  and  juice 
are  obtained  a  greater  variety  of  products  than  one  would  think 
it  possible  for  one  plant  to  yield.  First,  paper  is  made  from 
the  pulp  of  the  leaves,  and  twine  and  thread  from  their  fibres. 
The  rare  and  valuable  Mexican  manuscripts  were  composed  of 

paper  made  from  the  maguey, 
which  resembled  more  the  pa- 
pyrus than  anything  else. 

Another  use  of  this  plant  is  in 
furnishing  needles.  The  leaves 
are  tipped  with  sharp  thorns, 
and  by  breaking  off  the  thorn 
and  stripping  the  fibres  at- 
tached to  it  away  from  the 
pulp,  and  then  rolling  and 
twisting  them  together,  the  na- 
tive has  a  serviceable  needle 
ready  threaded.  The  poor  peo- 
ple thatch  their  houses  with  the 
leaves,  placing  one  over  the 
other,  like  shingles ;  the  hol- 
lowed leaf  also  serves  as  a  gut- 
ter, or  trough,  by  which  the 
water  falling  from  the  eaves  is 
conducted  away.  The  fibrous 
parts  of  the  maguey  supply 
the  country  with  pita,  or  strong  thread,  which  is  made  up  into 
ropes,  and  is  in  universal  use.     It  is  not  so  pliable  as  hemp,  and 

1  The  celebrated  Mexican  naturalist,  Senor  Ignacio  Blazquez,  Professor  of  Nat- 
ural History  in  the  State  College,  Puebla,  enumerates  {Revista  Cicntifica  Mexicatia, 
Tom.  I.  Num.  I.,  December,  1879)  more  than  the  above  number.  All  these 
varieties  have  native  Indian  names  in  Aztec,  and  many  in  Otomi.  Although  most 
of  them  are  used  merely  for  hedge  plants  and  surrounding  enclosures,  yet  the  ma- 
jority of  them  will  produce  pulque,  and  the  various  beverages  obtained  from  the 
maguey.  Twenty-two  are  enumerated  which  yield  aguamiel,  or  honey-water,  and 
of  this  number  six  produce  the  finest  liquor,  ox  pulqtie  fino. 


THE    MAGUEY. 


THE   MARKETS   AND   FLOATING  GARDENS-  343 

is  more  likely  to  be  affected  by  the  weather,  but  is  strong  and 
durable. 

The  Greek  word  agave  signifies  "  noble,"  and  the  plant  well 
merits  the  name,  both  for  its  majesty  and  beauty,  and  for  its 
manifold  aids  to  man.  Nothing  on  these  plains  is  so  imposing 
in  appearance  as  the  maguey. 

Its  leaves  are  sometimes  ten  feet  in  length,  a  foot  in  breadth, 
and  eight  inches  thick.  From  the  centre  of  these  great  leaves, 
after  collecting  its  strength  for  a  number  of  years,  it  sends  up  a 
giant  flower-stalk,  twenty  or  thirty  feet  high,  upon  which  is  clus- 
tered a  mass  of  greenish  yellow  flowers,  sometimes  more  than 
three  thousand  in  number.  After  this  supreme  effort,  the  ex- 
hausted plant  dies ;  it  has  performed  the  service  to  nature  for 
which  it  was  created.  From  the  fact  that  the  aloes  in  the  North 
takes  a  great  many  years  to  gather  strength  for  sending  up  this 
great  central  shaft,  has  arisen  the  story  that  it  blossoms  but 
once  in  a  hundred  years,  and  it  has  derived  the  name  of  the 
Century  Plant. 

"  In  the  maguey  estates,"  says  an  observant  writer,  "  the 
plants  are  arranged  in  lines,  with  an  interval  of  three  yards 
between  them.  If  the  soil  be  good,  they  require  no  attention 
on  the  part  of  the  proprietor  until  the  period  of  flowering  ar- 
rives, at  which  time  the  plant  commences  to  be  productive. 
This  period  is  very  uncertain ;  ten  years,  however,  may  be 
taken  as  the  average,  for  in  a  plantation  of  one  thousand  aloes 
it  is  calculated  that  one  hundred  are  in  flowering  every  year. 

"The  Indians  know,  by  infallible  signs,  almost  the  very  hour 
at  which  the  stem,  or  central  shoot,  destined  to  produce  the 
flower,  is  about  to  appear,  and  they  anticipate  it  by  making 
an  incision  and  extracting  the  whole  heart,  or  central  portion 
of  the  stem,  as  a  surgeon  would  take  an  arm  out  of  the  socket, 
leaving  nothing  but  the  thick  outside  rind,  thus  forming  a  natural 
basin  or  well  about  two  feet  in  depth  and  one  and  a  half  in 
diameter.  Into  this  the  sap,  which  nature  intended  for  the  sup- 
port of  the  gigantic  central  shoot,  continually  oozes  in  such 
quantities  that  it  is  found  necessary  to  remove  it  twice,  and 
even  three  times,  during  the  day.      In  order  to  facilitate  this 


344 


TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 


operation,  the  leaves  on  one  side  are  cut  off,  so  as  to  admit  a 
free  approach.  An  Indian  then  inserts  a  long  gourd  (called 
acojote),  the  thinner  end  of  which  is  terminated  by  a  horn,  while 
at  the  opposite  extremity  a  square  hole  is  left,  to  which  he  ap- 
plies his  lips,  and  extracts  the  sap  by  suction.  This  sap,  before 
it  ferments,  is  called  agitamicl  (honey- water),  and  merits  the 
appellation,  as  it  is  extremely  sweet,  and  does  not  possess  that 
disagreeable  smell  which  is  afterwards  so  offensive.  A  small 
portion  of  this  aguamiel  is  transferred  from  the  plant  to  a  build- 
ing prepared  for  the  purpose,  where  it  is  allowed  to  ferment  for 
ten  or  fifteen  days,  when  it  becomes  what  is  termed  niadre pulque 
(the  mother  of  pulque),  which  is  distributed  in  very  small  quan- 
tities amongst  the  different  skins  or  troughs  intended  for  the  re- 
ception of  the  aguamiel.  Upon  this  it  acts  as  a  sort  of  leaven, 
fermentation  is  excited  instantly,  and  in  twenty-four  hours  it  be- 
comes pulque,  in  the  very  best  state  for  drinking.  The  quantity 
drawn  off  each  day  is  replaced  by  a  fresh  supply  of  aguamiel, 
so  that  the  process  may  continue  during  the  whole  year  with- 
out interruption,  and  is  limited  only  by  the  extent  of  the  plan- 
tation. A  good  maguey  yields  from  eight  to  fifteen  cuartillos, 
or  pints,  of  aguamiel  in  a  day,  the  value  of  which  may  be  taken 
at  about  one  real,  and  this  supply  of  sap  continues  during 
two,  and  often  three  months.  The  plant,  when  about  to  fiower, 
is  worth  ten  dollars  to  the  farmer ;  although,  in  the  transfer 
of  an  estate,  the  magueys  de  corte,  or  plants  ready  to  cut,  are 
seldom  valued,  one  with  another,  at  more  than  five  dollars.  But 
in  this  estimate  an  allowance  is  made  for  the  failure  of  some, 
which  is  unavoidable,  as  the  operation  of  cutting  the  heart  of 
the  plant,  if  performed  either  too  soon  or  too  late,  is  equally 
unsuccessful,  and  destroys  the  plant. 

"  The  cultivation  of  the  maguey,  where  a  market  is  at  hand, 
has  many  advantages,  as  it  is  a  plant  which,  though  it  succeeds 
best  in  a  good  soil,  is  not  easily  affected  either  by  heat  or  cold, 
and  requires  little  or  no  water.  It  is  propagated,  too,  with 
great  facility,  for,  although  the  mother  plant  withers  away  as 
soon  as  the  sap  is  exhausted,  it  is  replaced  by  a  multitude  of 
suckers  from  the  old  root.     There  is  but  one  drawback  on  its 


THE  MARKETS   AND   FLOATING   GARDENS. 


345 


culture,  and  that  is  the  period  that  must  elapse  before  a  new 
plantation  can  be  rendered  productive,  and  the  uncertainty  with 
regard  to  the  time  of  flowering,  which  varies  from  eight  to 
eighteen   years;    but   the  maguey  grounds,  when   once    estab- 


EXTRACTING   AGUAMIEL. 


lished,  are  of  great  value,  many  producing  a  revenue  of  $10,000 
to  $12,000  per  annum." 

A  long,  train  departs  every  day  from  the  stations  on  the  plains 
of  Apam,  loaded  exclusively  with  pulque,  from  the  carriage  of 
which  the  railroad  derives  a  revenue  of  above  $1,000  a  day- 
From  the  hacienda  the  pulque  is  carried  to  the  cities  in  barrels 
and   sheep-skins,  and  there  retailed.      The  shops   are   gaudily 


346  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

painted  and  decorated  with  flowers,  but  tliey  can  no  more  hide 
the  nature  of  their  contents  than  a  gin  palace  or  lager-beer 
saloon.  Their  vile  odor  betrays  their  presence,  and  about  their 
doors,  day  and  night,  may  be  seen  ragged  and  filthy  men  and 
boys,  and  even  women,  who  drink  this  beverage  until  it  pro- 
duces intoxication.  Not  content  with  thus  perverting  the  sweet 
juice,  they  distil  from  the  mild  pulque  a  strong  rum,  called  mes- 
cal, which  quickly  causes  inebriety,  and  is  responsible  for  much 
of  the  crime  of  Mexico. 

Pulque  tastes  something  like  stale  buttermilk,  and  has  an  odor 
at  times  like  that  of  putrid  meat.  It  is  wholesome,  and  many 
people  drink  it  for  the  sake  of  their  health,  but  the  great  ma- 
jority imbibe  it  solely  for  the  sake  of  the  pulque.  The  natives 
ascribe  to  pulque,  says  Mr.  Ward,  as  many  good  qualities  as 
whiskey  is  said  to  possess  in  Scotland.  "  They  call  it  stomachic, 
a  great  promoter  of  digestion  and  sleep,  and  an  excellent  remedy 
in  many  diseases.  It  requires  a  knowledge  of  all  these  good 
qualities,  however,  to  reconcile  the  stranger  to  that  smell  of  sour 
milk  or  slightly  tainted  meat  by  which  the  young  pulque-drinker 
is  usually  disgusted ;  but  if  this  can  be  surmounted,  the  liquor 
will  be  found  both  refreshing  and  wholesome,  for  its  intoxicating 
qualities  are  very  slight;  and,  as  it  is  always  drunk  in  a  state  of 
fermentation,  it  possesses,  even  in  the  hottest  weather,  an  agree- 
able coolness.  It  is  found,  too,  where  water  is  not  to  be  obtained, 
and  even  the  most  fastidious,  when  travelling  under  a  vertical  sun, 
are  then  forced  to  admit  its  merits." 

It  is  only  to  be  met  with  in  perfection  near  the  places  where 
it  is  made ;  for  as  it  is  conveyed  to  the  great  towns  in  hog-skins 
or  sheep-skins,  the  disagreeable  odor  increases,  and  the  fresh- 
ness of  the  liquor  is  lost. 

Aguamiel  is  a  limpid  liquor,  golden  in  color,  sometimes 
whitish  and  mucilaginous,  according  to  the  species  of  the 
maguey,  with  a  bitter-sweet  flavor  and  of  an  herbaceous  odor, 
which  is  produced  in  an  excavation  made  in  the  root-stalk  of 
the  maguey  at  the  point  where  the  floral  peduncle  begins  to 
unfold ;  it  froths  when  shaken,  gives  an  abundant  precipitate 
with  sub-acetate  of  lead,  and  when  filtered  the  resultant  liquor 


I 


THE   MARKETS   AND    FLOATING   GARDENS.  347 

is  colorless.  An  analysis  of  aguamiel  by  the  celebrated  Bous- 
singault  gave  glucose,  sugar,  and  water  as  the  principal  in- 
gredients. Like  the  vine,  the  maguey  yields  the  best  liquor, 
independent  of  the  climate,  in  volcanic  or  siliceous  soil. 

Pulque  is  the  product  of  the  fermentation  of  aguamiel,  is  an 
alcoholic,  mucilaginous  liquid,  holding  in  suspension  white 
corpuscles,  which  give  it  its  color,  and  has  an  odor  sui  generis y 
a  taste  peculiarly  its  own,  more  or  less  sugary,  depending  upon 
its  strength,  and  contains  about  six  per  cent  of  alcohol. 

An  exhaustive  scientific  description  of  the  product  of  the 
maguey  is  given  by  Senor  Jose  C,  Segura,  in  the  Revista  Ci- 
entifica  Mexicmia  (Tom.  I.  Num.  6),  to  which  authority  I  am 
indebted  for  the  foregoing  facts. 

The  Mexican's  opinion  of  the  national  beverage  is  expressed 
in  the  following  lines :  — 

"  Sabe  que  es  pulque,  — 
Licor  divino .' 
Lo  beben  los  angeles 
En  vez  de  vino." 

Know  ye  not  pulque,  — 
That  liquor  divine  ? 
Angels  in  heaven 
Prefer  it  to  wine. 

To  return  to  the  city  and  the  markets.  They  are  scattered 
all  over  the  city,  preferring  to  crouch  under  the  shadow  of  a 
church  or  cathedral,  and  are  not  confined  to  the  sale  of  fruits 
and  flowers,  but  contain  everything  else  known  to  man.  Prom- 
inent, on  the  road  to  the  canal,  is  the  meat  market.  One 
knows  its  vicinage  by  the  troops  of  dogs  that  haunt  it,  and 
by  the  greasy  and  bloody  men  that  stand  around  its  doors. 
Through  the  streets  he  will  see  passing  horses  and  mules,  with 
peaked  frameworks  over  their  backs  hung  with  hooks,  upon 
which  are  quarters  of  beef;  sometimes  these  are  covered  with 
a  cloth,  sometimes  not.  The  sight  causes  a  shudder  to  run 
through  the  frame  of  a  stranger,  whether  the  ugly  hooks  are 
bare  or  adorned  with  their  ghastly  burdens.  Worse  than  this, 
brutes  of  men  in  leather  jackets  bear  huge  hampers  of  refuse 


348  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

and  entrails,  with  blood  dripping  from  them,  and  skulls  with 
horns  attached  and  glaring  eyeballs  protruding  from  livid 
sockets. 

One  morning,  in  a  walk  in  the  suburbs,  I  discovered  a  milk 
factory,  where  there  was  no  possible  chance  for  adulteration. 
In  a  square  containing  a  fountain  was  a  small  herd  of  cows ; 
about  each  cow  was  a  crowd  of  serving-women ;  and  a  man 
presided  at  the  source  of  supply.  A  line  was  fastened  to  the 
cow's  hind  legs,  binding  her  tail  to  them  also,  and  then  passed 
over  her  back  to  her  horns,  w^hile  triced  up  to  her  shoulders 
was  a  lusty  calf.  It  was  a  beautiful  arrangement ;  the  cow  could 
not  kick  nor  wag  her  tail,  and  the  calf  could  not  frisk  about,  nor 
put  his  foot  in  the  milk-pail,  —  for  two  reasons :  first,  because 
he  was  tied  ;  second,  because  there  was  not  any  pail.  The  man 
milked  with  one  hand  into  a  pint  cup  he  held  in  the  other, 
and  which,  as  fast  as  it  was  filled,  he  emptied  into  the  cups 
and  pitchers  of  the  waiting  servants.  And  they  were  a  clam- 
orous crowd,  importuning  him  to  fill  their  vessels  and  let 
them  be  gone.  "  Don  Felipe,  for  the  love  of  God  give  me 
a  medio's  worth  of  milk."  "  For  the  sake  of  the  Virgin,  a 
tlaco's  worth,"  etc. 

Here,  thought  I,  there  is  no  chance  for  cheating;  here  is 
honesty  and  pure  milk,  without  water  and  without  chalk,  and 
my  heart  warmed  towards  Don  Felipe  and  the  promiscuous 
crowd  of  maid-servants,  squatted  around  him  and  his  cow  in  the 
dirt.  These  people,  thought  I,  are  born  of  dirty,  but  honest 
parents.  But  my  landlady  told  me  that  the  servants  conspire 
with  the  man  with  the  cow,  and  put  water  in  the  pitcher,  and 
then  divide  with  the  honest  expresser  of  the  lacteal  fiuid,  who, 
by  milking  fast  and  furious,  creates  a  froth  in  the  pitcher,  not 
so  much  desired  by  her  as  milk.  But  did  ever  landlady  and 
maid-servant  exist  together  without  a  feud  ?  I  choose  to  believe 
that  there  dwells  somewhere  on  this  wide  earth  an  honest  milk- 
man, and  have  implicit  faith  in  Don  Felipe  and  his  cow. 


XVIII. 

THE  GRAND  PASEO,  CHAPULTEPEC,  EL  DESIERTO, 
AND   GUADALUPE. 

SEVENTEEN  hundred  yards  from  the  Plaza  Mayor,  the 
great  square  of  the  city  of  Mexico,  stands  the  bronze 
statue  of  Carlos  IV.,  an  equestrian  figure,  which  the  great  Hum- 
boldt declared  had  but  one  superior,  that  of  Marcus  Aurelius. 
Behind  him  is  the  great  Alameda,  the  beautiful  forest  garden  of 
the  city,  with  its  fountains  and  flowers ;  from  every  direction, 
various  avenues  lead  in  from  the  country,  and  are  blended  in  the 
one  artery  leading  to  the  city,  —  to  the  city's  heart.  One  regal 
arm  is  extended  westward,  pointing  to  the  hill  and  castle  of 
Chapultepec,  toward  which  from  the  base  of  the  statue  extends 
the  grandest  avenue  in  Mexico,  —  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma. 

When  Maximilian  was  in  power  here,  and,  conscious  of  the  ill- 
chosen  site  of  the  city,  desired  to  remove  it  to  a  better,  he  chose 
the  wisest  course  a  wise  ruler  could  have  done.  Commencing 
near  the  Alameda,  he  caused  to  be  constructed  the  avenues  that 
radiate  in  different  directions  from  the  statue  of  Carlos  IV.  Of 
these,  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma  was  the  principal  one,  for  it  was 
to  lead  to  Chapultepec,  his  favorite  resort,  and  it  was  to  be  the 
centre  of  the  new  city  of  Mexico,  being  on  the  highest  land 
about  the  present  city.  The  length  of  this  magnificent  prome- 
nade and  drive,  from  the  bronze  statue  to  the  castle  and  park  of 
Chapultepec,  is  3,750  yards,  which,  added  to  that  of  the  street 
leading  to  it  from  the  Plaza  Mayor,  gives  5,450  yards,  with  a 
width,  including  sidewalks,  of  170  feet.  In  its  entire  length  it 
contains  six  circular  spaces,  400  feet  in  diameter,  for  the  erection 
of  monuments  to  eminent  men.  The  first  already  holds  a  beauti- 
ful composition  in  marble  and  bronze,  representing  Columbus  and 


350  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

his  discoveries,  the  figures  being  of  heroic  size.  In  the  second 
space  the  foundation  is  laid  for  a  statue  of  Guatemotzin,  the  last 
Aztec  Emperor,  and  in  the  third  it  is  proposed  to  place  that 
of  Cortes,  his  conqueror  and  persecutor.  There  is  said  to  be  no 
statue  or  enduring  effigy  of  Cortes  in  the  republic,  such  has 
been  the  intense  bitterness  of  the  people  toward  the  conquer- 
ors of  Mexico.  That  they  accept  a  proposition  to  erect  one  to 
his  memory  is  a  proof  that  they  are  becoming  civilized,  and  are 
willing  no  longer  to  endure  the  reproach  of  Humboldt,  that 
"  we  nowhere  in  the  Spanish  colonies  meet  with  a  national 
monument  erected  by  the  public  gratitude  to  the  glory  of 
Christopher  Columbus  and  Hernan  Cortes."  The  three  re- 
maining circles  are  not  yet  spoken  for,  but  they  will  be  occu- 
pied by  the  marbles  or  bronzes  of  men  famous  in  Mexican 
history.  Carved  seats  of  stone  surround  the  semicircles  about 
the  statues,  and  long  rows  of  trees,  composed  of  eucalyptus 
and  ash  planted  alternately,  line  the  sidewalks. 

This  avenue,  then,  with  its  broad  macadamized  road-bed,  its 
shaded  walks,  and  its  beautiful  statuary,  driven  straight  across 
the  emerald  fields  of  the  valley,  is  the  chosen  resort  of  the 
wealth  and  fashion  of  Mexico.  It  is  the  only  place,  in  fact,  to 
which  they  can  repair  for  a  drive  since  the  Avenue  de  Bucarelli, 
running  almost  parallel,  is  no  longer  fashionable ;  fortunately, 
they  need  no  other.  The  centre  of  the  drive  is  for  equestrians, 
while  the  carriages  roll  along  the  sides,  up  one  side  and  down 
the  other.  On  Sundays  and  holidays  the  "  Grand  Paseo  "  is  in 
its  glory,  though  a  great  crowd  frequents  it  every  afternoon  of 
the  week ;  mounted  policemen  are  stationed  at  every  one  hun- 
dred yards ;  gayly  caparisoned  horsemen  gallop  swiftly  past,  in 
broad  sombreros,  embroidered  jackets,  leggings  decorated  with 
silver  braid  and  buttons,  and  massive  spurs  of  silver.  A  more 
picturesque  panorama  than  this  cannot  be  seen  in  any  other  city 
in  America.  As  the  sun  goes  down  behind  the  hills  beyond 
Chapultepec,  this  assemblage  turns  toward  the  city,  and  the 
Paseo  is  left  to  the  seclusion  of  the  verdant  pastures  which 
environ  it. 

What  the  citizen  of  the  United  States  feels  most  in  need  of 


THE   GRAND   PASEO.  353 

when  he  arrives  in  Mexico  is  a  place  to  go  to,  —  some  house, 
hotel,  section  of  the  city,  or  quarter  where  his  fellow-countrymen 
most  do  congregate.  He  cannot  find  it  here  ;  he  wanders  about 
like  a  cat  on  a  strange  roof,  seeking  a  pleasant,  home-like  place, 
but  finding  it  not.  There  is  no  hotel  here  that  suits  him ;  not 
one  even  on  the  American  plan.  The  Iturbide,  because  it  is 
central,  grand,  and  gloomy,  has  been  most  patronized ;  but  it 
does  not  meet  the  wants  of  its  guests  in  a  way  our  great  hotels 
in  the  States  would.  There  has  been  a  constantly  increasing 
need  of  a  quarter  where  the  stream  of  Americans  could  settle 
and  form  the  nucleus  of  such  winter  homes  as  exist  in  Florida 
and  the  South.  This  has  at  last  been  found.  It  is  on  the  out- 
skirts of  the  city,  yet  within  its  limits  and  within  gunshot  of  its 
busy  streets. 

The  grand  drive  divides  a  level  tract  of  land  lying  between 
the  two  great  aqueducts  that  supply  the  city  with  water.  One 
of  these  comes  from  a  point  leagues  away  among  the  hills, 
where  the  old  convent  of  El  Desierto  is  situated;  the  other  con- 
ducts the  water  from  the  sweet  springs  of  Chapultepec.  Both 
start  into  view  from  the  base  of  this  rocky  hill  to  the  westward, 
but  diverge,  one  taking  its  course  nearly  due  east,  along  that 
road  down  which  dashed  the  American  soldiers,  in  '47,  as  they 
stormed  the  San  Cosme  gate,  the  other  trending  more  to  the 
south,  striking  nearer  the  heart  of  the  city.  Between  these 
ancient  monuments  of  the  past  lies  the  most  beautiful  stretch 
of  plain  in  the  Mexican  valley,  smooth  as  a  floor,  covered  with 
short  sweet  grass,  low  and  flat,  yet  gradually  rising  to  a  level 
much  above  the  city. 

It  lies  west  of  the  city,  the  only  land  available  for  building 
sites  till  the  distant  hills  are  reached ;  its  drainage  is  perfect, 
through  the  city  and  into  Lake  Tezcoco.  The  reader  of  Mexi- 
can history  will  remember  that,  when  Cortes  had  destroyed  the 
Mexico  of  the  Aztecs,  it  was  proposed  to  build  the  new  city 
either  at  Chapultepec  or  Tacubaya,  at  the  border  of  the  hills, 
but  that  the  abundance  of  building  material  already  at  hand, 
from  Indian  temples  and  palaces,  induced  him  to  rebuild  on  the 
same  spot.     Ever  since,  the  error  has  been  apparent  that  the 

23 


354  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

site  chosen  was  the  worst  in  the  valley,  principally  from  the 
impossibility  of  effectual  drainage. 

It  is  proposed  to  form  here  the  nucleus  for  the  American 
colony  in  Mexico,  by  building  a  hotel  that  shall  compare  with, 
or  surpass,  anything  on  the  continent,  and  by  dividing  the  land 
into  lots  of  convenient  size  for  building  upon.  The  hotel  is  to 
be  placed  opposite  the  third  glorieta,  or  the  space  destined  for 
the  statue  of  Cortes,  —  is  to  be  built  of  indestructible  material, 
and  plans  are  invited  from  American  architects.  Ten  thousand 
varas  were  given  for  the  site  of  the  hotel,  which  is  to  be  500 
feet  front  by  600  deep ;  also  all  the  stone,  sand,  and  gravel 
necessary  for  its  construction.  Within  half  an  hour,  by  steam, 
are  the  ancient  quarries,  whence  the  stone  used  in  the  building 
of  the  city  was  obtained.  Here  is  that  peculiar  conglomerate 
called  tepetate,  which  can  be  easily  cut,  like  the  shell  rock  of 
Florida  and  Bermuda,  and  of  which  half  the  city  is  built.  This 
material  is  placed  at  the  disposal  of  the  builders  of  the  hotel, 
and  can  be  brought  direct  from  the  quarries  to  the  proposed 
site,  by  the  National  road,  which  bounds  the  land  on  one  side, 
and  within  a  thousand  yards  are  the  stations  of  two  other  great 
railways,  the  Central  and  the  \^era  Cruz.  All  the  street  cars 
of  the  city  rendezvous  in  the  northeast  quarter,  while  several 
lines  reach  the  Paseo ;  none  disturb,  however,  the  sanctity  of 
this  grand  avenue. 

Nearly  opposite  the  statue  of  Colon  are  extensive  baths,  with 
marble  basins  and  an  abundant  flow  of  water,  that  would  reflect 
credit  upon  any  city.  There  are  a  score  of  artesian  wells  in  the 
tract,  from  which  streams  of  water  gush  the  year  through,  rainy 
and  dry  season  alike.  Now  the  question  arises,  Why  has  not 
this  valuable  section  been  sooner  taken  possession  of,  and  why 
has  it  not  been  built  upon?  It  was,  as  I  have  said,  part  01 
Maximilian's  wise  plan  to  gradually  extend  the  city  westward 
to  this  higher  and  more  salubrious  location,  by  inducing  the 
wealthy  Mexicans  to  build  elegant  residences  there.  Taking 
up  the  grand  suggestion  of  the  late  Emperor,  it  remains  for 
Americans  to  realize  his  dream.  The  insecurity  of  the  suburbs 
of  the  city  has  been  the  greatest  objection  to  building  there,  but 


THE   GRAND    PASEO.  355 

that  is  now  removed.  Quick  transit  is  now  afforded  to  all  parts 
of  the  city ;  while,  keeping  pace  with  the  growth  of  the  colony, 
the  immense  trunk  lines  of  Mexico  will  bring  passengers  from 
the  North,  and  land  them  at  the  very  doors  of  their  winter 
homes.  At  the  entrance  to  the  Paseo,  a  year  ago,  a  great 
tower  was  begun,  to  be  175  feet  in  height  and  25  feet  square  at 
the  base,  from  the  summit  of  which  an  electric  light  of  16,000 
candle  capacity  is  to  dart  its  rays  over  the  city  and  its  suburbs. 

Imagine  a  winter  residence  in  this  charming  triangle,  with  an 
aqueduct  three  hundred  years  old  in  the  back  yard,  and  a  view 
from  the  front  of  the  loveliest  valley  and  the  grandest  snow- 
capped volcanoes  on  the  continent !  Try  to  imagine  the  perfect 
climate  here,  with  its  delicious  nights,  and  warm,  bright  days. 
If  the  possessors  of  this  royal  domain  act  wisely,  it  will  be  pos- 
sible for  many  of  our  people  to  own  here  perfect  gardens  of 
delight,  where  they  may  reside  in  security  and  happiness. 

Terminating  the  vista  down  the  avenue,  rise  the  hill  and  castle 
of  Chapultepec.  Historic  Chapultepec  !  From  the  days  when 
Montezuma  wandered  beneath  its  shades  and  built  his  palace 
here,  to  those  of  the  head  of  the  last  dead  empire,  it  has  been 
the  chosen  resort  of  successive  rulers  of  Mexico.  A  glorious 
grove  of  giant  trees  surrounds  the  hill,  —  grand  old  cypresses 
hung  with  masses  of  Spanish  moss,  like  those  of  the  cypress 
swamps  of  Florida.  Beneath  them  are  traced  walks  and  ave- 
nues, which  are  crowded  on  Sunday  afternoons  and  on  feast 
days,  and  are  seldom  solitary  any  day  in  the  year.  Chapultepec, 
the  Hill  of  the  Grasshopper,  has  the  only  grove,  and  presents 
the  nearest  point  for  recreation,  about  the  city,  from  which  it 
is  distant  less  than  two  miles. 

Though  now  used  as  an  astronomical  observatory,  the  castle 
retains  much  that  Maximilian  added  for  the  purpose  of  making 
it  a  royal  residence.  The  corridor  was  adorned  with  voluptuous 
paintings,  after  the  style  of  a  Pompeian  villa,  but  these  the  prud- 
ish Mexicans  have  draped  with  a  sort  of  sarape,  willing  to  avail 
themselves  of  the  genius  of  the  artist,  but  greatly  marring  the 
beauty  of  his  figures.  The  improvements  the  Emperor  designed 
have  never  been  finished,  but  it  is  hoped  that  the  enlightened 


356  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

government  now  in  power  -will  carry  them  out.  Whatever  may 
be  urged  against  Maximilian  as  a  usurper,  it  must  be  admitted 
that  he  has  embeUished  the  capital  more  than  any  ruler  since 
Cortes.  His  magnificent  service  of  plate  is  in  the  Museum,  and 
the  costly  furniture  is  widely  scattered,  but  some  tables  are  shown, 
some  chandeliers,  the  rooms  the  royal  couple  occupied,  and  the 
plan,  designed  by  his  order,  of  the  imperial  park  of  Chapultepec. 
From  the  roof  of  the  castle,  as  well  as  from  the  entire  crest  of  the 
hill,  a  wide  view  is  afforded  of  the  beautiful  city,  enclosed  be- 
tween its  amethyst  hills.  Perhaps  there  does  not  exist  in  the 
wide  world  a  lovelier  vision  than  that  spread  before  one  from 
the  castle  of  Chapultepec  ;  the  historic  valley  held  in  the  hollow 
of  the  Cordilleras  and  guarded  by  the  snow-crested  volcanoes  far 
away  to  the  southward,  —  those 

"  Mountains  white  with  winter,  looking  downward,  cold,  serene, 
On  their  feet  with  spring  vines  tangled  and  lapped  in  softest  green." 

"  What,"  says  the  Princess  Salm-Salm,  "  are  the  Central  Park 
in  New  York,  Regent's  Park  in  London,  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  in 
Paris,  the  Bieberich  Park  on  the  Rhine,  the  Prater  in  Vienna,  — 
nay,  even  the  pride  of  Berlin,  the  Thiergarten,  —  what  are  they 
all  in  comparison  with  this  venerable  and  delightful  spot?" 

The  same  bright  and  vivacious  writer,  who  was  in  at  the  death 
of  the  empire,  and  performed  daring  deeds  in  defence  of  her 
hero,  the  Emperor,  relates  that  the  first  night  Maximilian  and 
Carlotta  occupied  the  castle,  they  were  driven  out  of  their  rooms 
by  mosquitoes,  and  pitched  their  beds  on  the  open  terrace. 

Down  beneath  the  hill,  to  the  right,  as  we  face  the  valley,  is 
that  grand  memento  of  days  gone  by,  the  cypress  of  Monte- 
zuma, el  arbol  de  Montezuma.  It  is  undoubtedly  one  of  those 
beneath  which  the  Aztec  sovereign  meditated  in  the  intervals  of 
his  sacrifices.  Says  one  female  writer,  "  There  has  the  last  of 
the  Aztec  emperors  wandered  with  his  dark-eyed  harem."  We 
suppose  she  must  mean  Montezuma,  for  his  successor  died  so 
soon  after  his  elevation  to  the  throne  that  he  had  little  time 
to  wander;  and  Guatemotzin,  stern  and  watchful  chieftain,  had 
no  leisure  left  him  by  the  assaults  of  the  Spaniards.  But  if  we 
are  to  believe  the  clironiclers,  Montezuma,  though  he  had  an 


CHAPULTEPEC.  359 

extensive  collection  of  wives,  visited  them  only  by  stealth,  and 

never  took  them  walking  with  him.     So  we  must  dismiss  this 

pleasant  fiction  of  the  harem ;  but  if  the  lady  insists,  then  we 

must  imagine  that    the  grave    and    ever-occupied    Montezuma 

always  strutted   about  with   his  flock   at  his  heels ;    and  every 

morning,  like  chanticleer, 

"  His  lusty  greeting  said, 
And  forth  his  speckled  harem  led." 

Rising  to  a  height  of  one  hundred  and  seventy  feet,  and  with 
a  circumference  of  forty-six,  this  towering  monarch  of  Chapul- 
tepec  has  sheltered  many  a  royal  head  ere  it  attained  its  present 
dimensions;  but,  with  the  blessing  of  God,  it  will  never  shelter 
another.  Near  this  sombre  cypress  draped  in  its  gray  robe  of 
Spanish  moss,  there  gushes  from  the  base  of  the  hill  that  equally 
famous  spring  of  cool,  clear  water  known  as  "  Montezuma's 
Bath."  It  was  the  former  source  of  supply  for  the  ancient  Aztec 
city,  and  was  conducted  to  the  capital,  as  now,  over  a  magnifi- 
cent aqueduct  of  nine  hundred  arches.  There  is  an  inscription 
carved  in  the  stone  walls  of  the  basin,  to  the  effect  that  this 
fountain  was  restored  by  the  viceroy  of  Spain  in  the  year  1571. 
The  southern  aqueduct  marches  straight  upon  the  city  and  ter- 
minates there  in  a  fountain  of  quaint  design,  near  which  is  a 
tablet  informing  one  that  there  are  904  ai'cos  from  the  bridge  of 
Chapultepec  to  the  fountain ;  that  it  is  4,663  varas  long,  was 
begun  in  1677,  and  finished  in  1779.  This  fountain  is  called  the 
Salto  del  Agua,  or  Waterfall,  and  the  water  obtained  here  is 
known  as  agua  delgada,  thin  or  pure  water,  to  distinguish  it 
from  that  of  the  San  Cosme  aqueduct,  which  is  agua  gorda, 
or  thick  water.^  Near  the  spring  at  Chapultepec  is  the  great 
rock  which  is  said  to  have  had  upon  it  a  carving  of  Axayacatl 
and  Montezuma,  and  which  was  destroyed  by  Cortes ;  it  is  not 
entirely  obliterated,  however,  as  some  incised  lines  yet  remain. 

1  "  Sweet  water  is  brought  by  a  conduit  to  Mexico  from  a  place  called  Chapultepec, 
three  miles  distant  from  that  city,  which  springeth  out  of  a  little  hill,  at  the  foot 
■whereof  stood  formerly  two  statues  or  images,  wrought  in  stone,  with  their  Targets 
and  Launces,  the  one  of  Montezuma,  the  other  of  Axaiaca,  his  father.  The  water  is 
brought  from  thence  to  this  day  in  two  pipes  built  upon  arches  of  brick  and  stone."  — 
Thomas  Gage,  1625. 


360  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

A  monument  here,  a  plain  shaft,  records  the  brave  deeds  of 
the  Mexican  cadets  in  their  defence  of  the  castle.  Nowhere 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  capital  are  grouped  so  many  reminders  of 
Mexico's  glorious  history ;  nowhere  except  in  the  Museum  is 
there  so  much  to  attract  one,  or  so  much  to  absorb  his  attention 
after  he  is  there. 

Back  of  the  grove  is  Molmo  del Rey,  the  King's  Mill,  where  the 
Americans  lost  so  many  men  in  capturing  this  key  to  the  defences 
of  the  city.  The  great  building  is  now  used  as  a  foundry  for 
ordnance,  and  stands  as  on  that  memorable  day  in  '47  in  all  its 
ugliness.  On  the  hill  above  is  a  monument  to  the  Mexican  sol- 
diers who  fell  in  the  action,  and  from  this  point  the  eye  takes  in 
at  a  glance  the  entire  situation,  —  Molino  del  Rey  and  Chapulte- 
pec,  the  fall  of  which  determined  that  of  the  city.  Down  on  the 
plains  below  are  the  sites  of  the  battle-fields  of  Churubusco  and 
Contreras,  where  obstinate  fights  occurred. 

Dolores,  the  cemetery  of  the  aristocracy,  lies  behind  these 
hills,  surrounded  with  fields  of  pulque  plants,  and  the  pleasant 
resort  of  Tacubaya,  with  palatial  mansions  and  beautiful  gardens, 
occupies  the  slopes  where  the  city  of  Mexico  ought  to  have  been 
built.  A  tramway  leads  direct  from  the  city,  past  Chapultepec, 
to  Tacubaya,  and  thence  circles  round  to  the  lovely  hamlet  of 
San  Angel,  —  formerly  famous  as  a  gambling  centre,  and  even 
now  worthy  an  extensive  reputation  in  that  respect,  —  where  are 
annual  feasts  of  flowers,  resorted  to  by  the  population  of 
Mexico. 

Secluded  amongst  gardens  of  fruits  and  flowers,  except  on 
feast  and  gambling  days  quiet  as  the  grave,  no  one  would  sus- 
pect that  San  Angel  was  the  resort  of  pestiferous  robbers  and 
cut-throats.  Yet  it  is,  and  the  pedregal,  or  stony  lava  plain, 
bordering  the  town,  which  is  full  of  caves  and  fissures,  is  the 
hiding-place  of  numerous  thieves  and  murderers.  The  shep- 
herds, half-naked  Indians  in  ragged  blankets,  who  watch  over 
small  flocks  of  goats  and  sheep,  are  the  guardians  of  the  villains 
who  hide  there,  and  are  not  over  reputable  themselves. 

"  But  more  Northwestward,  three  Leagues  from  Mexico,"  says 
good  Friar  Gage,  "  is  the  pleasantest  Place  of  all  that  are  about 


EL   DESIERTO.  363 

Mexico,  called  La  Soledad,  and  by  others  El  Desierto,  the  soli- 
tary, or  desert  place  and  Wilderness.  Were  all  like  it,  to  live 
in  a  wilderness  would  be  better  than  to  live  in  a  City,"  This 
wilderness.  El  Desierto,  is  situated  some  fifteen  miles  from  the 
capital,  on  the  road  to  Toluca.  No  railroad  was  finished  to  it 
at  the  time  of  my  visit,  and  no  regular  stage  line  connects  it 
with  the  city,  and  so  any  one  then  desiring  to  visit  this  aban- 
doned convent  of  the  Carmelites  had  to  do  as  a  party  of  us, 
tourists  and  engineers,  did,  one  pleasant  day  in  June.  We 
chartered  a  diligence  capable  of  holding  fifteen  persons,  and, 
leaving  Mexico  at  six  in  the  morning,  climbed  the  hills  that  led 
away  to  this  conventual  paradise.  Thirteen  engineers,  let  loose 
from  a  week's  confinement  in  the  office,  it  may  be  needless  to 
remark,  disencumber  themselves  at  once  of  whatever  restraint 
office  rules  may  have  laid  upon  them,  and  if  the  people  along 
the  route  of  our  road  did  not  know  that  we  were  Americans, 
it  was  not  altogether  the  fault  of  the  engineers.  Besides  our- 
selves there  were  ten  mules  and  an  experienced  driver,  one  who 
had  driven  between  Mexico  and  Toluca  for  many  a  year. 

Leaving  the  valley,  you  say  good  by  to  all  refreshing  vegeta- 
tion except  such  as  snuggles  in  secluded  valleys  or  in  the  gardens 
of  the  villages.  At  the  hamlet  of  Santa  Fe,  those  of  the  party 
who  were  outside  exclaimed  to  those  who  were  inside  that  they 
ought  to  be  on  the  roof,  for  the  view  was  beautiful  beyond  their 
power  of  praise.  And  this  was  no  exaggeration,  as  those  of  us 
who  were  so  fortunate  as  to  secure  an  outside  seat  going  down 
confessed  to  ourselves  on  the  way  back.  A  picture  alone  can 
convey  to  my  reader  the  exceeding  beauty  of  this  fair  valley, 
with  its  hills,  lakes,  towns,  cities,  and  mountains  seen  through  the 
heavenly  atmosphere  that  blesses  this  country;  only  Velasco's 
pictures  could  do  this  to  perfection,  and  one  must  try  to  fill  in 
the  colors  in  imagination. 

The  diligence  portion  of  the  route  was  a  small  matter,  for 
after  we  had  been  safely  carried  to  a  miserable  village  called 
Caujimalpa,  the  driver  assured  us  that  there  his  obligation 
ended,  and  we  must  procure  beasts  of  some  sort  for  the  remain- 
ing distance,  about  two  miles.      Now  at  this  village  there  was  a 


364  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

meson,  or  hostelry,  where  it  was  possible,  our  Jehu  said,  we  might 
find  some  horses ;  but  some  of  the  engineers  who  were  sent 
into  the  stable-yard  to  ascertain  returned  with  the  discouraging 
information  that  there  was  not  one.  This  set  us  all  down  in  the 
mouth,  but  by  diligent  search  we  at  last  unearthed  the  keeper 
of  the  meson  and  worried  him  until  he  admitted  that  he  had  one 
horse ;  but  to  every  question  regarding  further  supply,  he  re- 
turned the  invariable  Mexican  answer,  ''No  hay," — "There  are 
none."  Enclosing  him  in  a  double  ring,  the  dozen  of  us  elected 
a  spokesman  and  questioned  him  regarding  the  resources  of  the 
place. 

"Will  you  give  us  a  horse?" 

'*  No  hay  caballo,  senor.'' 

"We  want  two  moaos,  also." 

"  No  hay  "  (pronounced  7W  eye). 

"  A  muchacJw,  then,  to  guide  us." 

"  No  hay,  seFior!' 

"  Something  to  eat?  " 

"  No  hay." 

"  Some  pulque  to  drink?  " 

"  No  hay. 

"A  house  for  shelter?  " 

"  No  hay." 

"  Tell  us  the  road  to  the  convent." 

"  No  hay." 

"  Confound  your  picture,  can  you  let  us  have  any  mules?" 

"  No  hay,  seTwr" 

"  A  jackass,  then,  —  give  us  donkeys." 

"  Si,  seTior,  hay  burros"  —  "  Yes,  sir,  I  have  jackasses." 

"  Good  for  the  Mexican !  "  shouted  an  engineer,  "  he  has  no 
hay  for  horses,  but  has  an  eye  for  jackasses.       Vamanos  !  " 

"Trot  out  your  donkeys,  old  man,"  said  our  leader;  and 
he  trotted  them  out,  forthwith. 

Our  exultation  was  of  short  duration,  for  there  was  not  a 
beast  in  that  collection  of  a  score  or  more  that  had  a  whole 
hide  on  his  back.  The  poor  burros  had  been  all  the  week  em- 
ployed in  freighting   on  the  road,  and   this    was    their  Sunday 


EL   DESIERTO.  365 

rest.  Indeed,  it  seemed  inhuman  to  mount  such  dwarfed  and 
bhstered  animals.  Long  years  of  servitude  had  worn  the  skin 
from  their  backbones,  the  pack-saddles  had  galled  them  until 
there  were  great  spaces  of  raw  and  bloody  flesh  and  running 
sores.  They  looked  at  us  reproachfully  as  we  got  astride  the 
pack-saddles,  —  for  there  were  no  others,  —  yet  they  offered  no 
remonstrance  in  the  shape  of  kicks  or  expostulatory  brays.  A 
silent  and  a  saddened  crowd,  we  wended  our  way  up  the  hill, 
along  the  course  of  a  swift-running  stream  that  supplies  the 
aqueduct  that  passes  Chapultepec  and  San  Cosme. 

Soon  we  entered  the  wood  that  renders  El  Desierto  one  of 
the  most  enchanting  resorts  within  a  day's  ride  of  Mexico. 
Pine,  hemlock,  cedar,  and  oak  clothed  the  hillsides  and  dark- 
ened the  deep  and  delightful  vales.  They  are  the  largest  trees 
found  in  a  body  in  the  valley,  always  excepting  the  cypresses 
of  Chapultepec.  In  fact,  there  are  no  others  left,  except  in 
isolated  specimens  in  the  various  villages.  The  air  here  was 
cool  and  sweet,  and  the  wind  sighed  through  the  pines  with 
a  subdued  murmur,  as  though  too  heavily  laden  with  sweet- 
ness to  break  into  a  gale.  We  found  the  convent  on  a  central 
hill,  entirely  hidden  from  the  world  outside,  a  pile  of  massive 
buildings,  with  domes  and  turrets,  surrounded  by  their  dormito- 
ries, and  enclosed  within  a  high  stone  wall.  Dilapidation  and 
decay  were  written  all  over  them.  How  many  years  have 
passed  since  they  were  occupied  by  the  pious  monks,  no  one 
seems  to  know,  but  antiquity's  veil  is  over  the  place,  since 
the  oldest  of  the  buildings  was  raised  early  in  the  seventeenth 
century, —  in  its  first  decade.  Friar  Gage,  who  was  here  about 
1625,  and  whom  the  Abbe  Clavigero  calls  a  man  of  lies  (though 
I  believe  he  verily  tells  the  truth),  gives  a  caustic  description  of 
the  lives  of  those  holy  monks  who  had  mortified  themselves 
by  retreating  to  this  wilderness.  "  It  is  wonderful  to  see  the 
strange  devices  of  fountains  of  water  which  are  about  the  gar- 
dens, but  much  more  strange  and  wonderful  to  see  the  resort 
of  coaches  and  Gallants,  and  ladies  and  gentlemen,  from  Mexico, 
thither,  to  walk  and  make  merry  in  those  desert  pleasures,  and 
to  see  those  hypocrites  whom  they  look  upon  as   living  Saints, 


366 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


and  so  think  nothing  too  good  for  them  to  cherish  them  in 
their  desert  conflicts  with  Satan,  None  goes  to  them  but  car- 
ries some  sweetmeats,  or  some  other  dainty  dish  to  nourish  them 
withal ;  whose  prayers  they  soHcit,  leaving  them  great  alms  of 
Money  for  their  Masses,  and  above  all  offering  to  a  picture  in 
their  Church,  called  Our  Lady  of  Carmel,  treasures  of  diamonds. 


DAYS    THAT    ARE    GOXK. 


pearls,  golden  chains  and  crowns,  and  gowns  of  cloth  of  gold 
and  silver.  Before  this  picture  did  hang  in  my  time  twenty 
lamps  of  silver;  the  best  of  them  being  worth  a  hundred 
pounds." 

This  gives  us  a  picture  of  El  Desierto  in  its  flourishing  period, 
and  the  remains  now  about  us  fully  sustain  the  belief  that  the 
whole  valley  was  indeed  a  beautiful  garden  of  fountains  and  fruits, 
where  the  monks  secluded  themselves  in  such  delifrhtful  retreats 


EL   DESIERTO. 


367 


that  the  fair  ladies  of  Mexico  were  constrained  to  seek  them 
out.  All,  alas  !  have  departed,  —  fountains,  flowers,  monks,  and 
stately  dames  and  gallants.  The  ruins  remain,  and  the  forests, 
for  the  conservation  of  which  latter,  as  tending  to  preserve  the 
supply  of  water  flowing  to  the  city,  the  government  has  recently 
passed  necessary  laws. 

After  groping  through  the  subterranean  passages,  which 
wound  beneath  the  principal  buildings,  and  may  have  been 
used  by  the  accursed  Dominicans  —  who  once  inhabited  here 
after  the  departure  of  the  Carmelites — as  places  of  torture  or 
imprisonment  for  their  religious  victims,  we  entered  the  chapel. 
How  changed  in  the  lapse  of  two  centuries  and  a  half!  Where 
hung  that  sacred  picture  of  Our  Lady  of  Carmel,  and  those 
silver  lamps,  are  now  but  bare  walls,  defaced  with  many  an  in- 
scription and  the  smoke  of  vandal  fires.  Beneath  the  central 
dome,  where  the  light  sifts  through  and  enlivens  the  gloom,  is 
a  brick  furnace  once  used  for  the  smelting  of  glass,  fragments 
of  which,  and  much  wood  for  fuel,  lie  about  on  the  broken  pave- 
ment. There  are  passages  in  these  walls  in  which  one  might 
easily  lose  himself,  wells  and  cistern  that  may  be  the  entrances 
to  subterranean  labyrinths,  and  cells  and  vaults  that  may  once 
have  heard  many  a  groan. 

To  find  a  stream  in  the  hills  of  far-off"  Mexico  that  recalled 
a  mountain  torrent  of  New  England,  spanned  by  just  such  a 
bridge  as  artists  love  to  draw  across  our  foaming  brooks,  was 
something  that  drew  us  all  into  the  valley  after  the  fortunate  dis- 
coverer. One  touch  of  such  a  bit  of  nature  made  us  all  united 
at  once  upon  this  charming  dell  as  the  place  to  lunch  in.  The 
hampers  were  accordingly  opened  here,  and  each  member  of 
the  party,  provided  with  half  a  chicken  and  a  bottle  of  ale, 
sat  down  contentedly  to  the  feast.  After  the  repast,  the  pho- 
tographer of  the  party  secured  —  in  the  conventional  language  of 
his  profession  —  the  shadow  of  that  bridge,  ere  the  substance 
faded  from  our  sight,  and  then  we  hastened  to  the  convent  and 
our  donkeys. 

Though  with  a  prospect  before  them  of  home  and  a  stable, 
those  donkeys  of  ours  were  loath  to  move  in  any  direction.     It 


;68 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


was  then  that  American  ingenuity  triumphed  over  asinine  per- 
versity, though  not  even  Balaam  had  more  trouble  with  his  burro 
than  we  did  with  ours  that  day.  The  path  down  the  hills  was 
narrow,  and  when  a  rider  was  settled  in  his  saddle  he  could  not 
see  the  way  ahead  of  him  if  the  donkey  carried  his  ears  erect, 
while  if  he  wore  them  at  his  side  there  was  hardly  room  be- 
tween the  opposite  banks  for  the  beast  to  pass.  It  was  only  by 
getting  behind  a  donkey  and  pushing  him  that  we  could  get  him 


BRroCE   AT   EL   DESIERTO. 


into  a  run,  and  then,  as  it  was  down  hill,  we  would  jump  on 
and  ride  before  he  had  lost  his  impetus.  This  scheme  was  very 
successful  until  the  beasts  saw  through  it,  when  they  stopped 
short  as  soon  as  we  had  done  pushing,  thereby  transferring  the 
impetus  to  ourselves,  who  were  thrown  over  their  heads,  despite 
their  ears,  and  received  sundry  bruises.  But  we  did  not  cherish 
against  them  any  resentful  feelings,  and  delivered  them  to  their 
owner  little  the  worse  for  wear ;    then  we  rode  into  the  city  at 


GUADALUPE.  369 

dark,  with  every  member  of  our  party  in  good  condition,  —  save 
where  he  had  come  in  contact  with  a  donkey. 

Crossing  the  valley  eastward,  we  find  at  about  the  same  dis- 
tance from  the  city  as  Chapultepec,  two  miles,  the  church  and 
chapel  of  Our  Lady  of  Guadalupe.  A  tramway  leads  out  to  it, 
over  a  causeway  that  is  said  to  have  existed  when  Cortes  in- 
vaded the  valley.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  of  Tepeyacac  is  the 
sumptuous  church  built  in  honor  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe, 
with  a  small  village  clustered  about  it,  and  a  series  of  stone  steps 
leading  up  to  the  chapel  on  the  hill.  Here,  in  the  year  1531,  if 
we  may  believe  Mexican  tradition,  the  most  holy  Virgin  appeared 
to  a  poor  Indian,  Juan  Diego  by  name,  as  he  was  on  his  way  to 
early  mass.  After  commanding  him  to  direct  the  Bishop  of 
Mexico  (who  was  the  noted  Zumarraga)  to  build  here  a  chapel 
in  her  honor,  she  filled  his  blanket  with  flowers,  and  disappeared. 
The  wondering  Indian  did  as  directed,  but  when  he  cast  at  the 
Bishop's  feet  his  burden  of  flowers,  as  they  fell  away  from  the 
blanket  there  was  revealed  an  image  of  the  Virgin  herself!  Rev- 
erently and  with  joy  and  wonder,  the  Bishop  took  the  tilma,  or 
blanket,  and  hung  it  up  in  his  oratory ;  and  two  years  later  it  was 
hung  above  the  high  altar  in  the  church  built  in  commemoration 
of  this  event.  The  church  was  finished  in  1533,  and  later  the 
chapel,  perched  on  the  hill  above,  was  built.  These  are  not  the 
only  attractions  to  the  shrine,  for  a  celebrated  chalybeate  spring 
gushes  forth  from  the  base  of  the  hill,  which  was  caused  by  the 
pressure  of  the  Virgin's  foot  in  emphasis  of  her  command  to 
Juan  Diego.  On  the  side  of  the  hill,  half-way  to  the  chapel, 
is  a  monument  in  stone  and  mortar  to  one  man's  devotion,  in 
the  shape  of  the  mast  and  sails  of  a  ship.  Caught  at  sea  in 
a  storm,  a  sailor  vowed  he  would  build  a  stone  ship  to  the  glory 
of  the  Virgin,  if  allowed  to  escape  to  land.  Once  safe  ashore, 
either  his  funds  or  his  piety  failed  him,  since  he  got  no  farther 
than  the  foremast.  And  there  it  stands  to-day,  the  only  stone 
effigy  in  existence  perhaps,  of  a  ship,  or  part  of  one,  of  so 
large  a  size. 

In  the  cemetery,  near  the  chapel,  are  buried  Santa  Anna  and 
several  other  noted  Mexican  worthies.     A  fine  view  of  the  city 

24 


370  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

of  Mexico  is  obtained  from  the  hill.  In  the  church  at  its  foot 
are  many  objects  of  curiosity,  —  the  veritable  painting  of  the 
Virgin  on  the  tilma  of  the  Indian,  enshrined  in  a  crystal  case 
with  golden  border,  a  silver  altar  rail,  numerous  pictures  tes- 
tifying to  the  efficacy  of  the  waters  of  the  spring  in  healing 
the  sick,  and  cords  of  crutches,  which  proclaim  that  numerous 
cripples  have  been  cured  by  visiting  this  most  holy  shrine. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  is  the  first 
American  saint  in  the  calendar.  Her  appearance  to  Juan  Diego 
was  most  opportune,  since  the  conversion  of  multitudes  of  In- 
dians to  the  Catholic  faith  immediately  followed,  as  they  trans- 
ferred their  worship  of  their  old  images  to  this  new  one.  It  will 
be  remembered  that  she  had  a  rival  in  the  Virgen  dc  los  Remcdios, 
which  was  either  brought  by  Cortes  or  his  soldiers  with  him  to 
Mexico,  or  manufactured  soon  after  their  arrival.  This  latter 
was  a  small  wooden  doll,  ugly  enough  to  frighten  all  the  rats  out 
of  the  valley  of  Mexico,  yet  dressed  in  rich  petticoats  of  silk, 
adorned  with  pearls  of  great  value.  Her  church  is  now  par- 
tially in  ruins,  and  the  blessed  relic  —  this  wooden  doll,  found 
by  a  soldier  in  a  maguey  plant  —  was  removed  to  the  cathedral 
years  ago.  This  was  a  matter  of  precaution,  as  she  had  so 
many  rich  jewels  about  her  that  it  was  feared  some  grace- 
less robber  might  be  tempted  to  spirit  her  away  from  so 
lonely  a  place. 


XIX. 


POPOCATAPETL. 

"  I  could  not,  ever  and  anon,  forbear 
To  glance  an  upward  look  on  two  huge  peaks, 
That  from  some  other  vale  peered  into  this." 

T^OUR  snow-covered  mountain  peaks  gleam  in  the  sun  in 
■*"  Mexico,  making  it  famous  among  the  countries  of  the 
world.  There  are  but  two  higher  on  the  continent  of  North 
America,  for  the  lowest  of  the  four  reaches  sixteen  thousand  feet. 

First,  nearest  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  is  Orizaba,  visible  at  sea 
before  the  coast  of  Mexico  is  discovered.  This  reaches  an 
altitude  of  seventeen  thousand  three  hundred  feet,  and  is  sec- 
ond only  to  the  giant  of  all,  Popocatapetl,  whose  hoary  head  is 
lifted  up  seventeen  thousand  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  sea. 
Iztaccihuatl  and  the  Volcan  de  Toluca  next  appear,  each  about 
sixteen  thousand  feet  in  height. 

Far  above  the  wall  of  mountains  that  surrounds  the  valley  of 
Mexico  towers  the  mighty  Popocatapetl,  visible  from  the  city  of 
Mexico,  and  one  of  the  most  beautiful  objects  that  grace  that 
land  of  glorious  scenery.  It  is  the  first  to  greet  the  traveller's 
eye  and  enchain  his  attention  as  he  enters  the  Mexican  valley, 
the  first  he  later  seeks  in  the  morning,  the  last  he  loves  to  look 
upon  at  evening  time. 

Though  called  an  active  volcano,  it  has  emitted  nothing  but 
sulphur  fumes,  and  perhaps  a  little  smoke,  within  the  memory 
of  man.  Yet  it  may  be  only  resting,  for  the  old  historians 
affirm  that  it  was  active  in  the  first  years  of  the  conquest,  and 
its  very  name,  Popocatapetl,  signifies  "  the  smoking  mountain." 

Volcanoes  take  their  rest  like  human  beings,  and  we  have  only 


372 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


to  turn  to  the  history  of  Vesuvius  to  confirm  this.  The  forma- 
tion of  the  volcano  of  JoruUo  in  Mexico,  in  1759,  is  another 
example,  when  from  a  fertile  and  highly  cultivated  plain  were 
thrown  up  six  hills  of  fire,  the  central  one  rising  to  a  height  of 
sixteen  hundred  feet. 


VOLCANO    OF    JORULLO. 

Until  within  a  few  years,  the  ascent  of  Popocatapetl  was  ren- 
dered more  tedious  and  discouraging  than  at  present  by  the 
long  horseback  ride  of  sixty  miles  necessary  to  be  taken  from 
Mexico  as  a  preliminary  to  the  actual  climb  up  the  mountain. 
At  the  present  time  this  difficulty  is  obviated  by  the  passing  of 
a  line  of  railroad  near  the  actual  base  of  the  volcano,  so  that 
one  can  leave  the  city  in  the  morning  and  reach  the  snow- 
line before  night,  ascending  the  summit  and  returning  the  next 
day.  This  railroad,  the  Morelos,  leaves  the  city  at  the  gate  of 
San  Lazaro,  near  where  the  main  sewer  flows  with  sluggish 
current  towards  Lake  Tezcoco ;  from  the  odors  of  which  sewer, 
and  from  the  congregations  of  filthy  beggars  that  assemble  at 
the  arrival  and  departure  of  trains,  one  will  understand  why  this 
suburb  is  named  after  Lazarus,  king  of  mendicants.  You  may 
take  a  horse-car  at  the  Plaza  at  seven  in  the  morning,  and  the 


POPOCATAPETL. 


373 


train  at  seven  and  a  half,  and  at  eight  will  find  yourself  rapidly 
whirling  over  the  salt  plains  that  once  formed  the  bed  of  the 
great  lake.  Passing  through  several  pueblos,  we  reach  Ameca- 
meca,  the  largest  town  on  the  line,  and  the  place  at  which  the 
ascent  of  the  volcano  commences,  in  about  two  hours.  The 
distance  from  the  gate  of  San  Lazaro  is  fifty-eight  kilometres, 
and  the  fare,  first-class,  one  dollar. 

In  the  centre  of  the  town  is  the  Plaza,  where  a  low  circular  wall 
of  stone  encloses  a  small  plat  planted  with  flowers,  a  round  basin 
filled  with  water  flowing  from  a  fountain  in  the  middle,  and  a 
few  white  stone  pillars  support  a  capital  and  form  the  entrance, 
above  which,  and  shading  the  garden,  droop  dark  green  willows. 
The  square  surrounding  this  bit  of  verdure  is  large,  bounded  on 
its  west  side,  next  the  railroad,  by  the  Casa  Municipal,  and  on 
the  east  by  the  cathedral,  a  large  and  well-preserved  building. 
The  streets  of  the  town  diverge  from  this  centre,  lined  with 
low  houses  of  stone  and  adobe,  —  mostly  the  latter,  —  roofed 
with  rough  shingles  spiked  on  with  long  wooden  pegs.  Water 
from  the  mountains  runs  in  little  streams  through  the  streets, 
and  is  diverted  by  small  gutters  to  the  houses  for  private  use. 
Groups  of  pines  rise  above  the  houses,  and  all  the  trees  are 
mainly  of  the  northern  zone.  East  of  the  town,  and  in  fact  all 
around,  stretch  immense  fields  of  corn  and  barley,  parted  by 
hedges  of  maguey,  and  beyond  them  the  foot-hills  commence, 
with  many  a  fertile  tongue  of  land  running  up  among  them, 
green  and  golden  with  grain.  Then  they  rise  higher  and  higher, 
covered  with  black  forests  of  pine,  until  the  grand  old  mountains 
are  fairly  reached,  which  shake  off  their  garments  of  trees,  and 
tower  above  them  all,  brown  and  barren.  Next  comes  the  border 
of  the  snow-line,  its  white  robe  ragged  and  patched  with  brown 
on  its  skirts ;  but  finally,  triumphing  over  all  below,  it  drapes 
the  peaked  summit  in  a  glistening  garment  of  spotless  white. 

Facing  the  east,  Iztaccihuatl  —  la  Mtijcr  Blanca,  "the  White 
Woman"  —  lies  above,  and  apparently  nearer  the  town,  than 
Popocatapetl.  She  covers  a  long  portion  of  the  ridge  with  her 
white  shroud,  and  is  really  suggestive,  by  her  shape,  of  a 
dead  giantess,  robed  in  white  for  her  burial.     Far  and  near,  this 


374 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


volcano  is  known  as  the  "  White  Woman,"  and  from  the  plains 
of  Amecameca  and  from  the  city  of  Mexico  the  resemblance 
to  a  dead  woman,  lying  on  her  bier  and  covered  with  a  white 
sheet,  is  most  suggestive.  The  neck  is  a  trifle  long,  and  the 
protuberance  of  the  breasts  carried  a  little  too  far  down,  giving 
an  undue  prominence  to  the  abdomen;  but  the  dead  face  is 
perfect,  and  the  hair  streams  in  silvery  locks  from  the  snowy 
forehead  back  over  the  head  and  down  the  sides  of  the  bier. 
Her  feet  are  turned  toward  her  companion  giant,  grim  old 
Popocatapetl,  and  between  the  two  lies  a  long,  uneven  ridge, 
mainly  beneath  the  snow-line,  brown,  and  for  the  most  part 
treeless.     Popocatapetl  wears  a  solid  crown  of  glittering  snow, 


LA   MUJER   BLAXCA. 


which  appears  jagged  and  sun-bitten  at  about  the  same  level  as 
La  Mujer  Blanca,  where  his  diadem  loses  itself  in  little  streams, 
that  trickle  down  his  giant  shoulders. 

There  is  a  tradition  among  the  Indians  that  these  two  volca- 
noes were  once  living  beings,  in  the  early  years  of  the  world, 
in  the  shape  of  a  giant  and  giantess.  The  Supreme  Deity 
became  oftended  at  some  acts  of  theirs,  and  changed  them  into 
mountains.  He  struck  the  giantess  dead,  and  there  she  lies  to 
this  day,  stretched  silent  upon  her  bier,  robed  in  glistening  white. 
The  giant  was  merely  rooted  fast  to  the  spot,  where  he  could 
contemplate  his  loved  companion ;  and  he  was  wont  to  express 
his  indignation  and  grief  by  fiery  floods  of  lava  tears,  and  by 


POPOCATAPETL.  375 

pouring  forth  volumes  of  smoke.  In  his  agony  he  would  shake 
the  whole  earth  with  his  tremblings.  The  affrighted  Indians 
thus  recognized  him  as  Tlaloc,  the  "  God  of  Storms,"  and  Popo- 
catapetl,  the  "  Hill  that  Smokes." 

When  it  was  known  among  my  friends  in  Mexico  that  I  was 
going  to  attempt  the  ascent  of  Popocatapetl  alone,  they  said  I 
could  not  do  it ;  men  high  in  authority  warned  me  of  the  dangers 
attending  such  an  effort.  Giving  heed  to  the  warnings  of  my 
friends,  I  attired  myself  in  my  oldest  clothes,  donned  a  Mexican 
sarape  and  sombrero,  girt  myself  about  with  a  belt  stuffed  full 
of  cartridges,  containing  a  dirk  and  a  revolver,  and  then  set  out 
for  the  station.  The  disguise  was  so  complete  that  an  ac- 
quaintance who  met  me  in  the  Plaza  was  about  to  pass  without 
a  recognition.     I  stopped  him,  and  then  he  apologized. 

"  O,  don't  mention  it,"  said  I ;  "  but  tell  me,  do  you  see 
about  me  any  indications  of  wealth?  " 

"  No,"  he  replied,  "  I  'm  blessed  if  I  do !  " 

Then  I  allowed  him  to  pass  on.  At  the  station,  the  agent 
made  me  happy  by  handing  out  a  third-class  ticket  at  sight.  I 
then  knew  that  I  appeared  like  a  common  Mexican,  and  that, 
unless  I  opened  my  mouth,  no  robber  would  attempt  to  murder 
me  with  the  expectation  of  getting  anything  for  his  pains. 

In  Mexico,  I  had  been  kindly  furnished  with  a  letter  by  Gen- 
eral Ochoa,  who  owns  the  crater  of  the  volcano  and  procures 
sulphur  from  it,  to  his  mayor-domo,  Don  Domingo  Zela ;  but  Don 
Domingo  was  absent  when  I  arrived  in  Amecameca,  and  I  was 
thrown  upon  my  own  resources.  Very  fortunately,  there  met  me, 
as  I  stepped  from  the  cars,  a  volcanero,  or  volcano-man,  one  who 
had  worked  in  the  crater  digging  sulphur,  who  offered  his  ser- 
vices as  a  guide  to  the  top.  His  face  told  me  he  was  honest  and 
tolerably  faithful,  and  we  closed  a  bargain  at  once,  —  he  to  fur- 
nish me  his  own  services,  three  horses,  and  3.  peon,  at  five  dollars 
a  day.  Having  concluded  these  preliminaries,  we  went  in  search 
of  the  one  man  of  Amecameca  who  spoke  English.  After  much 
trouble,  we  finally  drew  up  at  the  door  of  a  little  house  where 
two  pretty  girls  were  sewing ;  and,  upon  learning  that  "  papa  " 
was  out,  but  would  be  back  soon,  I  accepted  their  invitation  to 


376  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

enter.  They  spoke  nothing  but  Spanish,  but  their  father,  who 
had  hvcd  in  New  Orleans  thirty  years  before,  spoke  not  only 
his  native  tongue,  but  French,  English,  and  Mexican,  or  Indian. 
His  English  was,  to  be  sure,  a  little  the  worse  for  his  past  thirty 
years'  silence,  but  he  patched  it  up  with  a  little  French,  and  so 
we  hobbled  on.  "  Im  speaks,"  said  he,  "  ze  French  besser  zan 
ze  England,"  —  and  so  he  did. 

Don  Felipe  was  a  medico,  or  doctor,  in  a  small  way,  and  was 
in  great  demand.  He  had  one  sovereign  remedy  for  all  com- 
plaints, which  was  that  of  Doctor  Sangrado.  He  would  draw 
more  blood,  for  less  money,  than  any  physician  I  ever  met.  An 
Indian  woman  came  to  be  bled  while  we  were  waiting  for  the 
horses,  and  he  drew  from  her  a  pint  of  blood,  into  a  cup  clotted 
with  gore,  and  charged  her  only  a  real,  or  twelve  cents. 

It  was  said  to  be  fifteen  miles  from  town  to  the  rancho  where 
we  were  to  pass  the  night,  and  we  ought  to  have  started  at  noon, 
but  it  was  four  o'clock  when  we  did  start.  There  is  always  a 
vast  difference,  in  Mexico,  between  the  time  you  should  leave, 
and  the  time  when  you  do  leave,  always.  Don  Felipe  insisted 
on  accompanying  me  to  the  rancho,  leaving  his  lucrative  prac- 
tice —  doctors  always  have  "  lucrative  practices  "  —  to  the  care 
of  his  daughters,  who  were  left  alone.  He  was  a  sad-faced, 
quiet  man,  with  thoughtful  eyes  and  grizzled  beard,  —  a  grave 
and  courtly  Mexican,  whose  sense  of  duty  to  a  chance  guest 
impelled  him  to  climb  the  mountain  with  him. 

Leaving  town,  the  road  winds  through  great  fields  planted 
with  corn,  and  soon  runs  at  the  bottom  of  a  deep  barranca,  or 
ravine,  ploughed  out  by  the  torrents  that  sometimes  descend 
from  the  mountains.  Our  peon  led  a  horse  with  a  pack-saddle, 
and  Don  Felipe,  the  guide,  and  myself  had  each  a  small,  but 
wiry  horse,  half  hidden  beneath  a  great  Mexican  saddle  with 
large  boot  stirrups,  on  the  pommel  of  which  was  coiled  a  lariat. 

As  we  ascended,  we  met  cattle  and  sheep,  tended  by  many 
children  in  ragged  garments,  and  donkeys  and  horses  dragging 
long  sticks  of  timber  on  wooden  wheels  a  foot  or  two  in  diame- 
ter. To  pass  these  we  had  to  ride  up  the  steep  banks  and  wait. 
As  we  reached  the  pine  trees  —  which  do  not  descend  in  a  body 


m'm/f 


'^'<  'i 


^^<'     ^''^Slfl''^ 


POPOCATAPETL. 


379 


below  a  certain  altitude  —  the  fields  improved  ;  wheat  and  bar- 
ley grew  high  and  thick,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  Over 
to  the  left  was  a  flour-mill  all  alone.  There  are  no  houses  be- 
tween the  town  and  the  crater,  — "  Only,"  says  Don  Felipe, 
solemnly,  and  crossing  himself  hastily,  —  "  only  the  mountains 
and  God !  " 

The  pines  grew  more  abundant,  and  the  air  was  filled  with 
their  resinous  odor;  jays  and  chickadees  —  birds  of  the  tem- 
perate zone  —  flitted  from  tree  to  tree,  and  reminded  me  of 
Northern  woods.  A  high,  conical  hill,  rising  out  of  a  great  field 
to  the  right,  planted  with  corn  to  the  top,  and  with  rude  ruins 
on  its  summit,  is  called  Tetepetongo,  the  hill  of  the  round 
stones,  and  was  formerly  used  as  an  Indian  place  of  sacrifice,  — 
at  least  so  says  tradition.  A  sister  elevation  a  mile  distant, 
also  artificial,  or  artificially  graded,  is  known  as  Tusantepec, 
As  we  went  up  among  immense  trees,  old  Popo'  seemed  at  one 
time  right  ahead,  shining  golden  in  the  setting  sun ;  again,  he 
was  far  away,  and  we  seemed  travelling  from  him.  We  went  up, 
still  up,  the  great  trees  growing  greater,  towering  far  above  us, 
huge  hemlocks  and  pines.  A  hill  covered  with  coarse  grass  was 
on  our  left,  and,  as  we  reached  its  base,  the  night  crept  upon  us 
silently,  and  wrapped  us  in  its  sable  folds.  We  were  then  ten 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  enclosed  in  a  cold  atmosphere,  and 
chilled  by  half-congealed  rain.  Nothing  could  compare,  for 
dreariness,  with  the  oppressive  silence  of  those  high  forests ; 
not  even  a  murmur  of  wind  in  the  tree-tops,  no  bird  of  night  to 
startle  us  with  his  cries,  —  nothing  but  the  hoof-beats  of  our 
horses,  and  the  crackling  of  twigs  and  branches  that  they 
stepped  upon. 

Don  Felipe,  who  had  ridden  before  me  silently,  wrapped  in 
his  cloak,  now  halted,  and  demanded  abruptly  if  I  was  armed. 

I  said  certainly,  and  asked  him  if  he  also  had  a  pistol. 

"No,"  said  he;   "the  people  here  all  know  me,  and  know  that 
I  am  poor.    But  you  —  they  think,  of  course,  that  you  are  rich." 

"  But  there  are  no  people  living  here." 

"  No ;  but  they  are  passing  all  the  time,  and  some  may  have 
followed  us  from  town." 


380  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

"  But  I  have  no  money,  —  look  at  me  !  " 

"  A  man  can't  travel  without  money." 

"  Humph !  yes,  a  little,  but  not  enough  to  tempt  them  to  kill 
me." 

"  Senor,  they  would  kill  you  for  a  dollar  !  Senor,  there  is  a 
black  cross  on  the  road  yonder.  If  it  were  not  so  dark,  we  might 
see  it.     There,  a  friend  of  mine  was  killed  by  the  bad  men." 

*•  Killed  for  what?  " 

"  For  nothing." 

"  For  money?  " 

"  Si,  senor,  they  shot  him  there." 

It  was  indeed  true ;  for,  two  days  later,  coming  down  the 
mountain  in  the  freshness  of  the  morning,  I  saw  the  veritable 
cross,  opposite  a  tangled  thicket  in  a  lonely  pass.  It  was  of 
rough  wood,  painted  black,  and  with  an  inscription  on  it,  de- 
siring all  who  passed  to  offer  a  prayer  for  the  soul  of  the  mur- 
dered man.  Here,  Don  Felipe  paused  a  moment,  crossed 
himself,  and  murmured  a  supplication. 

I  was  about  to  tell  Don  Felipe  that  I  was  a  dead  shot,  but  I 
thought  that,  if  I  must  die  that  night,  I  would  at  least  be  clear 
of  falsehood  for  that  day.  So  I  jogged  along  in  sullen  silence, 
blaming  myself  for  being  led  into  suc'.i  a  dilemma,  and  blaming 
Don  Felipe  for  starting  so  late,  when  he  knew  that  we  must 
traverse  this  dense  wood  after  dark.  It  was  now  so  dark  that 
my  unaccustomed  eyes  could  see  nothing  but  the  black  trunks 
of  the  pines,  and  I  followed  blindly  my  guide  and  peon,  with 
Don  Felipe  behind  me.  Through  an  opening  in  the  wood,  we 
obtained  one  last  glimpse  of  Popocatapetl,  standing  up  like  a 
sheeted  ghost  against  the  black  sky,  and  then  entered  a  portion 
of  the  forest  so  dense  that  I  could  only  follow  my  peon  by  his 
white  shirt,  and  my  guide  by  the  glinting  silver  of  his  sombrero. 
We  rode  over  fallen  trees,  striking  limbs  and  projecting  branches, 
stumbling  into  holes,  jumping  gulches,  climbing  hills,  descend- 
ing hollows,  —  all  in  pitchy  darkness.  Suddenly,  we  were 
brought  to  a  halt,  and  the  peon  darted  into  the  black  thicket. 
I  clutched  my  revolver  nervously,  and  settled  myself  firmly  in 
the  saddle,  believing  that  some  foul  play  was  meditated,  when 


POPOCATAPETL.  38 1 

Don  Felipe  told  me  that  he  was  searching  for  the  trail.  The 
peon  and  volcanero  held  a  consultation,  and  it  was  agreed  to 
leave  all  to  the  pack-horse;  and  then  we  went  on  again,  the 
peon  clinging  to  his  horse's  tail,  —  all  depending  upon  the  in- 
stinct of  that  poor  brute. 

The  Cuidado !  —  "Beware  !"  —  of  the  guide  became  more 
frequent  as  the  path  was  obstructed  by  fallen  pines  and  cut 
by  numerous  gulches.  A  long-drawn  howl  swept  through  the 
black  forest  at  intervals,  which  Don  Felipe  said  was  that  of  a 
coyote,  or  wolf;  and  more  rarely  we  heard  the  blood-curdling 
cry  of  the  puma,  or  mountain  lion.  Fortunately  for  travellers, 
but  unfortunately  for  naturalists,  these  animals  are  exceedingly 
rare.  One  would  have  been  enough,  however,  for  us  that  night; 
he  could  have  destroyed  the  entire  party  without  our  seeing  him 
at  all.  We  descended  a  steep  ravine  and  climbed  a  high  hill 
covered  with  pines,  down  which  we  went,  and  crossed  another 
ravine ;  and  about  this  time,  when  I  thought  it  would  be  the 
proper  thing  to  despair,  we  turned  a  clump  of  trees  and  saw  a 
light.  Soon  we  reached  a  gate,  which  a  servant  opened  at  our 
bidding,  and  Don  Domingo,  the  mayor-domo,  warmly  welcomed 
us.  We  had  been  five  hours  in  the  saddle,  and  were  so  cold 
and  stiff  we  could  hardly  get  our  legs  together  when  lifted  to  the 
ground.  The  poor  peon,  who  had  walked  and  run  all  the  way, 
with  only  a  shirt  on,  and  cotton  trousers  rolled  up  to  his  thighs, 
had  to  attend  to  the  horses;  though  Don  Felipe  —  true  cabailero 
that  he  was  —  allowed  no  one  but  himself  to  care  for  his. 

It  was  nine  o'clock,  Don  Domingo  told  us ;  we  had  thus 
passed  three  hours  groping  in  the  darkness  of  the  mountain 
forests.  Made  welcome  to  the  roughly-built  house,  we  entered 
and  found  a  roaring  fire  leaping  up  the  open  throat  of  a  clay 
chimney.  By  this  cheering  blaze  we  thawed  ourselves  out,  and 
by  the  time  meat  was  boiled  and  coffee  ready  were  in  condition 
to  enjoy  them.  Don  Domingo,  a  perfect  gentleman  of  the  type 
so  often  met  with  in  Mexico,  read  my  letter  of  introduction,  and 
told  me  it  was  not  necessary  to  present  it,  as  he  recognized 
in  me  a  friend  after  his  own  heart.  He  then  embraced  me  and 
patted  me  on  the  back,  and  set  out  his  only  remaining  bottle 


382  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

of  wine.  There  was  but  one  bed,  and  in  this  Don  Domingo 
had  been  sleeping  when  we  arrived ;  but  he  insisted  that  I  should 
occupy  it,  and  he  and  Don  Felipe  spread  their  sarapes  on  the 
floor,  and  were  soon  snoring,  with  their  heads  on  their  saddles. 
The  "  bed  "  was  three  or  four  boards,  raised  a  foot  from  the 
floor  and  covered  with  a  thin  strip  of  straw  matting.  Drawing 
my  sarape  over  my  head,  and  belting  my  knife  and  revolver 
about  me,  I  was  soon  in  the  land  of  dreams. 

The  rancho  of  Tlamacas,  says  Charnay,  the  archaeologist,  — 
who  visited  it,  and  found  near  it  some  of  his  most  valuable  pot- 
tery, —  is  at  an  elevation  of  12,595  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  in 
a  valley,  with  high  hills  on  all  sides  but  the  north,  where  the 
surface  slopes  toward  the  valley  of  Puebla,  about  nine  leagues 
distant  The  soil  is  volcanic,  sand  and  grit,  supporting  a  growth 
of  coarse  grass  and  great  pines  hoary  with  moss  and  lichens. 
In  about  the  centre  of  this  secluded  valley  is  the  rancho,  its 
visible  portion  being  the  house  and  the  subliming  works,  where 
the  crude  sulphur  brought  down  from  the  crater  is  purified. 
This  is  done  in  earthen  jars,  which  are  broken  when  the  sulphur 
is  sublimed. 

Here,  then,  is  a  sort  of  half-way  house  for  the  volcaneros, 
and  a  resting-place  for  the  mules  and  donkeys  that  transport 
the  sulphur  to  the  valley  below.  Sulphur  is  not  the  only  pro- 
duct of  the  volcano ;  for  many  years  the  only  ice  used  in  Mex- 
ico was  obtained  from  the  ravines  seaming  the  cone,  above  the 
snow-line.  Even  to  this  day,  the  city  of  Puebla  is  supplied  from 
the  mountain.  The  Indians  ascend  far  above  the  rancho,  dig  out 
the  ice,  where  it  rests  congealed  the  year  through,  and  carry  it  on 
their  backs  to  the  donkey  trails,  where  it  is  packed  on  the  backs 
of  these  animals  to  the  valleys.  From  the  fact  that  the  ice  is 
imperfectly  crystallized  and  more  resembles  snow,  it  is  known 
as  nieve,  snow,  and  this  name  is  yet  applied  to  the  ice-cream 
made  in  the  cities.  In  the  Plaza  of  INIexico  you  will  hear,  every 
afternoon,  the  cries  of  the  bo}-s  peddling  ice-cream :  "  N'icve ! 
tome  nieve  !" 

The  volcano  towers  directly  above  the  rancho,  southeast  of  it, 
first  a  broad  strip  of  pines,  then  black  volcanic  sand ;  then  the 


POPOCATAPETL.  383 

snow-covered  dome,  with  the  black  rock  known  as  Pico  del  Fraile 
sticking  up  on  its  western  ridge. 

The  peon  had  been  instructed^  to  awaken  us  at  three  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  that  we  might  get  well  up  to  the  snow-line  be- 
fore the  sun  rose;  but  the  poor  fellow  was  worn  out  with  cold 
and  fatigue,  and  when  I  awoke  it  was  five  o'clock,  and  neither 
horses  nor  coffee  were  ready.  The  temperature  was  48°  Fahr. 
as  we  started,  and  the  trees  sparkling  with  frost ;  the  sun  peered 
above  Malinche,  —  the  solitary  mountain  that  rises  from  the  val- 
ley of  Puebla, —  turning  it  a  fiery  red,  and  bathing  the  whole 
Puebla  valley  in  soft  rosy  mist,  then,  striking  upon  the  cone  of 
Popocatapetl,  made  it  glisten  like  a  silver  dome.  It  was  a  glori- 
ous spectacle,  with  the  sun's  rays  rebounding,  as  it  were,  from 
the  silver  mountain,  that  towered  majestically  so  far  above  us 
into  the  blue  ether.  It  nerved  and  braced  me  for  a  struggle 
that  I  had  reason  to  think  would  be  severe.  For  two  weeks 
before  I  started,  I  had  searched  Mexico  for  some  companion  ; 
but  was  successful  only  in  developing  some  of  the  most  disheart- 
ening stories  of  previous  experiences,  from  the  few  who  had 
ascended  the  volcano,  that  ever  reached  the  ears  of  man.  First, 
I  should  be  robbed  in  Ameca,  then  murdered  on  the  road  up 
the  mountain,  as  I  passed  through  the  forest ;  escaping  these,  I 
should  certainly  succumb  to  the  cold  at  the  rancho ;  or,  if  not, 
then  I  could  not  miss  bursting  a  blood-vessel  as  I  reached  the 
crater.  Of  the  many  who  had  attempted  the  ascent  few  had 
succeeded,  for  they  either  became  footsore,  or  fainted,  or  bled 
at  the  nose,  eyes,  and  ears,  or  from  the  lungs,  or  mangled  them- 
selves on  the  frozen  cone.  It  was  a  most  discouraging  prospect; 
but  the  trouble  was  with  nearly  all  who  have  attempted  the 
ascent,  that  they  were  mainly  dwellers  in  cities,  who  had  not 
often  "  roughed  it,"  and  who  looked  upon  the  whole  trip  as  a 
glorious  picnic,  and  prepared  themselves  accordingly,  with 
great  quantities  of  eatables  and  liquor.  They,  moreover,  nearly 
always  carried  along  their  wives  and  families,  and  would  drag 
these  frail  creatures  as  long  as  possible,  and  then  have  to  take 
them  back  to  the  rancho.  They  told  me  I  must  wrap  my  feet 
with  bundles  of  rags,  to  prevent  them  from  sinking  in  the  snow. 


384 


TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 


or  wear  spiked  sandals ;  but  I  knew  it  must  be  pretty  soft  snow- 
that  my  feet  would  slump  through,  and  so  I  merely  strapped  on 
my  old  hunting-shoes,  which  had  assisted  me  in  the  climbing  of 
many  lesser  volcanoes  in  the  West  Indies,  and  buckled  on  my 
canvas  leggings ;  this  was  the  only  preparation  I  made  for 
climbing.  My  peon  furnished  me  with  a  spiked  staff,  —  not 
one  of  those  gaudy  alpenstocks,  such  as  Cook  excursionists  use 


THE    PEAK,     FROM   THE   SNOW-LINE. 


in  scaling  the  mighty  Alps,  and  then  bring  home  and  stick  up 
in  a  corner  to  be  worshipped  ever  after,  —  but  one  little  bigger 
than  a  broomstick,  with  a  rigid  iron  spike  in  it. 

Leaving  the  rancho,  we  immediately  entered  the  pines,  and, 
riding  through  them  for  half  a  mile,  struck  diagonally  down  the 
side  of  a  wide  and  deep  barranca,  and  then  climbed  the  other 
side  in  the  same  way;   here  begins  the  vast  stretch  of  volcanic 


POPOCATAPETL.  385 

sand  that  laps  the  base  of  the  cone  proper.  The  horses  sank 
fetlock  deep,  the  grade  was  tremendous,  and  their  labored 
breathing,  as  they  stopped  every  rod  or  two  to  get  wind,  was 
extremely  painful  to  witness.  Owing  to  the  rarefacation  of  the 
air,  and  the  great  labor  of  wading  through  the  heavy  sand,  it 
really  seemed  as  though  the  blood  would  gush  through  their 
red,  distended  nostrils.  Compelled  to  adopt  a  course  of  short 
zigzags,  my  mozos  ranged  far  ahead  of  me,  and  reached  the 
rendezvous  long  in  advance  of  the  horses.  After  about  two 
hours  of  this  work,  during  which  the  agony  of  the  horses 
seemed  so  great  that  I  was  only  restrained  from  dismounting  by 
the  knowledge  that  I  needed  all  my  strength  for  the  final  climb, 
we  reached  a  ridge  of  rocks.  It  was  the  first  of  a  series  that 
cropped  up  through  the  black,  shifting  sand,  and  ran  down  to- 
ward Puebla  in  many  a  fantastic  shape,  evidently  formed  by  fire. 
On  the  upper  rock  is  a  cross,  indicating  the  death  of  a  man,  — 
this  time  not  on  the  spot,  but  in  the  crater.  At  this  spot,  La 
Cruz,  we  halted  the  horses,  and  I  gladly  dismounted. 

The  limit  of  vegetation^  had  been  passed  at  a  little  distance 
above  the  barranca,  the  pines  (the  Pimis  AJonteziimcB)  ending 
there  in  a  body,  as  if  refusing  to  advance  even  a  single  straggling 
sentinel  farther;  and  then  came  clumps  of  coarse  grass,  dwin- 
dling finally  to  little  specks,  and  at  last  all  that  remained  were 
the  hardly  visible  blotches  of  moss  or  sphagnum ;  above,  all 
was  sand,  to  the  skirts  of  the  everlasting  snow. 

Here  Don  Felipe  left  me,  and  turned  back  with  the  horses. 
He  had  thus  far  come  with  me  voluntarily  and  without  recom- 
pense, as  my  coinpanero,  but  his  obligation  —  like  that  of  the 
bride  who  ascended  Mont  Blanc  with  her  husband  and  wilted 

1  "  At  the  height  of  14,500  feet  all  the  Phanerogamia  have  vanished,  and  the  vege- 
tation consists  merely  of  mosses  and  lichens,  which  cover  the  separate  rocks  as  high 
as  14,700  feet.  Botanists  acquainted  with  the  Scandinavian  Alps  agree,  that  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  snow  limit  of  the  extreme  North  the  Cryptogamia  are  more  abundantly 
represented,  both  as  to  number  and  variety,  than  under  similar  circumstances  in  the 

tropical  zone From  the  threshold  of  rigid  death,  as  from  the  North  Cape 

or  the  glaciers  of  Iceland,  our  eyes  pass  from  the  Arctic  zone  and  the  pine  groves 
of  the  North  to  the  gardens  cf  the  Hesperides  with  their  golden  fruit,  and  thence  to 
the  glowing  zone  where  the  palms  and  the  arborescent  grasses  are  developed."  — 
Sartorius. 

25 


386  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

half-way  up  —  did  not  extend  beyond  the  snow-hnc.  Dear 
Don  P'ehpe !  he  embraced  me  as  though  for  the  last  time,  and 
his  serious  face  assumed  an  even  graver  expression  as  he  warned 
me  to  return  immediately  that  I  felt  symptoms  of  giddiness. 
Then  he  turned  and  plodded  down  the  mountain,  as  we  pre- 
pared to  ascend. 

A  sublime  spectacle  was  opened  to  me  as  I  stood  by  the  lonely 
black  cross,  wedged  into  the  fire-scathed  rock,  at  this  elevation 
of  15,000  feet.  The  eye  ranged  over  a  vast  valley,  down  the 
ridges,  above  the  black  belt  of  volcanic  sand,  across  the  pines, 
to  La  Mujer  Blanca,  the  dead  White  Woman,  now  with  a  wreath 
of  cloud  above  her,  and  her  snowy  breasts  upturned,  bared  to 
the  pitiless  sky.  A  broad  table-land  lies  between  the  two  vol- 
canoes, which  appears,  at  a  lower  elevation,  like  a  narrow  gap. 
Through  this  gap,  which  I  passed  the  night  before,  runs  the  trail 
that  Cortes  took,  when  he  first  approached  the  valley  of  Mexico. 
From  its  western  slope,  the  future  conquerors  first  saw  the  won- 
derful vision  that  seemed  to  them  like  a  picture  of  enchanted 
land.  "  Eight  leagues  from  the  city  of  Cholula,"  wrote  Cortes, 
in  his  letters  to  his  sovereign,  "  are  two  very  lofty  and  remark- 
able mountains;  in  the  latter  part  of  August  their  summits  are 
covered  with  snow ;  and  from  the  highest,  by  night  as  well  as  by 
day,  a  volume  of  smoke  arises,  which  ascends  above  the  moun- 
tain to  the  clouds,  as  straight  as  an  arrow.  As  I  have  desired  to 
render  your  Highness  a  very  minute  account  of  everything  in 
this  part  of  the  world,  I  wished  to  ascertain  the  cause  of  this 
phenomenon,  as  it  appeared  to  me,  and  I  despatched  ten  of  my 
companions,  such  as  I  thought  suitable  for  this  purpose,  with 
several  natives  of  the  country  for  guides,  charging  them  to  use 
every  endeavor  to  ascend  the  mountain  and  find  out  the  cause  of 
that  smoke.  They  went,  and  struggled  with  all  their  might  to 
reach  the  summit,  but  were  unable,  on  account  of  the  great 
quantity  of  snow  that  lay  on  the  mountain  and  the  whirlwinds  of 
ashes  that  swept  over  it,  and  also  because  they  found  the  cold  in- 
supportable. But  they  reached  very  near  the  summit,  and  while 
they  were  there  the  smoke  began  to  issue  forth  with  so  much 
force  and  noise  that  it  seemed  as  if  the  whole  sierra  was  crum- 


POPOCATAPETL. 


387 


bling  to  the  ground  ;  so  they  descended,  and  brought  with  them 
a  considerable  quantity  of  snow  and  icicles,  that  we  might  see 

them,  as  it  was  something  quite  new  in  this  region While 

on  their  way  to  the  mountain,  the  party  discovered  a  road,  and 
inquired  of  their  Indian  companions  where  it  led,  who  told  them 
to  Culua  (Mexico),  They  followed  this  road  until  they  began 
to  ascend  the  mountain,  between  which  and  the  other  elevation 


THE   VOLCANOES,    FROM   CHAPULTEPEC. 

it  passed ;  and  from  it  they  discovered  the  plains  of  Culua, 
and  the  great  city  of  Temixtitan,  and  the  lakes  of  that  great 
province."  ^ 

The  same  scene  of  beauty  that  greeted  the  delighted  eyes 
of  the  Spaniards,  three  hundred  and  sixty  years  ago,  was  un- 
folded to  me  as  I  stood  at  the  foot  of  La  Cruz,  eight  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  valley  of  Mexico,  where  the  glimmering 
towers  of  the  city  could  be  seen,  though  fifty  miles  away.     The 

^  "  The  Spaniards  followed  nearly  the  same  track  which  the  courier  of  Mexico 
takes  on  his  way  to  Puebla,  by  Mecameca,  which  is  traced  on  the  map  of  the  valley  of 
Tenochtitlan."  —  Humboldt. 


388  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

valley  of  Pucbla,  away  to  the  north,  lay  half  veiled  in  vapor, 
revealing  little  lakes,  a  village  here  and  there,  white  church  tow- 
ers, and  the  varied  hues  of  hill  and  vale,  of  wooded  mountain 
and  populous  plain.  Rising  high  above  it  was  the  extinct  vol- 
cano, Malinche,  or  Malintzin,  named  by  the  Indians  in  honor 
of  Cortes,  and  far  away  to  the  east  the  peak  of  Orizaba,  a 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  distant,  its  snowy  cone  glistening  like 
a  diamond  above  the  enveloping  clouds.  A  glorious  vision,  — 
one  that  I  could  have  looked  upon  for  hours ;  but  the  gather- 
ing clouds  of  mist,  rolling  up  from  the  valleys,  warned  me 
that  it  was  dangerous  to  linger  longer. 

A  wide  belt  of  deep  sand  lay  between  us  and  the  solid  snow, 
flecked  here  and  there  with  little  drifts  and  straggling  remnants 
of  former  storms.  Through  this  we  slowly  and  painfully  waded, 
falling  back  at  least  one  step  in  three,  and  breathing  the  first  sigh 
of  relief  when  finally  among  the  snow-fields.  Simultaneously 
with  our  reaching  the  snow,  the  threatening  clouds  gathered 
about  us,  and  we  were  enveloped  in  as  dense  a  fog  as  any  I 
have  ever  seen  on  the  Atlantic  coast. 

The  real  dangers  to  be  encountered  in  the  ascent  of  Popocat- 
apetl,  as  enumerated  by  a  traveller  who  preceded  me  by  eighteen 
years,  are  avalanches,  shifting  sands,  sand  slides,  lightning  play- 
ing over  the  metallic  sands,  whirlwinds  of  sand,  unseen  chasms, 
and  rupture  of  the  lungs.  We  had  passed  the  sands,  and  were 
now  in  danger  only  from  the  two  last. 

We  were  now  fairly  above  the  cloud  strata  and  walking  onward 
as  in  a  dream,  conscious  of  direction  only  by  the  steepness  of 
the  incline  before  us.  The  only  guide-book  that  describes  the 
ascent  of  the  volcano  warns  travellers  to  "  provide  themselves 
with  overcoats,  veils,  and  alpenstocks,  which  they  dive  into  the 
ashes  and  volcanic  sand."  It  is  not  absolutely  necessary  to  pro- 
vide yourself  with  veils  and  overcoats  "to  dive  into  the  volcanic 
sand,"  but  you  must  have  blue  goggles,  to  prevent  the  effects  of 
the  strong  reflection  of  the  sun's  rays  from  this  glaring  surface 
of  snow.  A  person  with  a  delicate  complexion  might  also  feel 
the  need  of  a  green  veil,  and  the  mozo  should  carry  for  him  an 
overcoat  or  extra  wraps. 


POPOCATAPETL.  389 

In  the  language  of  a  correspondent  of  a  New  York  paper, 
writing  from  Mexico  at  the  time  of  my  ascent,  I  went  up  "  alone, 
with  three  Indian  guides."  Well,  so  I  did  ;  at  least,  there  was  no 
gente  de  razon,  or  white  man,  along  with  me.  There  was  my 
peon,  in  cotton  shirt  and  pants,  with  only  a  remnant  of  a  sarape 
over  his  shoulders,  and  only  his  sandals  strapped  to  his  bare 
feet.  He  carried  my  tourograph,  or  camera,  and  a  canteen  of 
"  nourishment,"  besides  the  provisions.  Then,  there  was  my 
"guide,"  now  degenerated  into  a  mere  companero,  or  companion, 
who  knew  nothing,  as  I  later  ascertained,  of  the  mountain ;  and 
the  real  guide,  an  old  man  picked  up  at  the  rancho.  He  also 
wore  cotton  shirt  and  pants,  and  a  broad  sombrero,  but  had  his 
feet  swathed  in  strips  of  blanket  till  they  looked  as  though  he 
had  an  infliction  of  elephantiasis. 

The  peon  and  I  soon  left  the  others  behind,  and  plodded  on, 
one  step  after  another,  for  hours.  The  snow  was  just  right  for 
climbing  over ;  as  there  had  been  no  recent  fall,  it  had  been  soft- 
ened and  compacted,  giving  quite  a  good  foothold.  It  had  been 
gnawed  by  the  sun  till  it  lay  in  great  cakes,  tilted  up  edgewise, 
forming  a  labyrinth  of  passages,  through  which  we  slowly  picked 
our  way. 

Such  terrible  stories  had  been  told  me  of  the  sufi"erings  en- 
dured by  mountain  climbers  up  this  cone  of  snow,  that  I  had 
prepared  myself  to  meet  and  overcome  obstacles  requiring 
almost  superhuman  strength  and  endurance.  I  had  resolved 
to  go  on,  step  by  step,  taking  my  time,  shedding  my  last 
drop  of  blood,  if  necessary ;  but  to  reach  the  summit  by  all 
means.  So  I  took  it  serenely,  following  close  after  my  peon, 
treading  where  he  trod,  and  letting  him  take  off  the  wire  edge 
of  the  trail.  He  seemed  to  like  that.  It  showed  I  had  confi- 
dence in  him,  and  so  I  had, —  confidence  that  if  he  fell  into  a 
hole  and  disappeared,  I  should  not  follow  suit.  Half-way  up, 
perhaps,  my  "  guides "  cried  out,  "  Senor,  we  can't  go  any 
farther,  we  are  lost."  We  were  surrounded  by  mist  that  ob- 
scured everything  more  than  ten  feet  away  from  us ;  but  I 
could  not  see  how  we  could  get  lost,  when,  if  we  went  up  far 
enough,  we  should  reach  the  crater  brim ;   or,  if  low  enough,  we 


390  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

should  come  out  on  the  belt  of  ashes ;  and  so  I  told  them.  My 
peon  also  was  of  my  opinion ;  and,  as  we  combined  had  the 
food,  drink,  instruments,  and  pistols,  I  did  not  care  whether 
the  others  came  on  or  not.  In  Mexico,  I  had  procured  a 
double-handful  of  the  famous  coca  leaves,  —  the  stay  and  stim- 
ulant of  the  Indians  of  the  Peruvian  Andes,  —  and  to  these  may 
be  attributed,  possibly,  the  fact  that  I  made  the  ascent  without 
fatigue.  Whatever  the  reason,  I  went  on,  calmly  chewing  my 
cud  of  coca  leaves ;  up,  up,  surmounting  one  snowy  barrier 
after  another,  for  four  hours  or  more,  until  my  faithful  servant 
turned  and  said,  "  Sefior,  aqiii  estd  el  crater !"  —  "  Here  is  the 
crater !  " 

Reaching  the  place  where  he  stood,  I  suddenly  came  upon 
a  black  and  yawning  gulf,  which  even  the  dense  mist  could 
not  conceal.  Here,  for  the  first  time,  there  darted  through 
my  temples  a  severe  pain,  which  remained  for  hours,  even 
till  I  had  descended  to  the  rancho.  Overcome  by  conflicting 
emotions,  and  needing  no  longer  any  further  stimulus,  I  sank 
upon  the  crater's  brim,  breathless  and  panting  from  excitement. 
Then  I  rose  exultingly,  and  discharged  the  six  chambers  of 
my  revolver  into  the  air,  creating  such  a  concussion  in  the  cra- 
ter that  great  stones  rattled  down  its  perpendicular  sides,  and 
the  reverberation  nearly  deafened  us.  F"rom  "crag  to  crag" 
leaped  the  volumes  of  sound,  like  peals  of  thunder,  and  finally 
died  away  in  receding  murmurs,  as  though  retreating  farther 
and  farther  into  the  entrails  of  old  Tlaloc,  the  god  of  storms, 
whose  brow  I  now  stood  upon,  at  a  height  of  nearly  eighteen 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  lip  of  the  crater  is  a  narrow  rim  of  sand,  lying  above  the 
black  abyss  and  at  the  edge  of  the  sea  of  snow,  like  the  coral 
ledge  composing  an  atoll  of  the  southern  seas.  Its  highest  point 
is  at  the  west,  its  lowest  at  the  east,  and  the  crater  has  somewhat 
the  shape  of  an  ellipse,  four  or  five  thousand  feet  in  its  longer 
diameter  and  over  one  thousand  feet  deep.  The  snow  stopped 
abruptly  at  this  wreath  of  sand,  rising  to  a  height  of  from  six 
to  eight  feet,  and  curling  over  it,  but  prevented  from  advancing 
farther  by  the  heat  from  the  crater.     "  Thus  far  and  no  farther !  " 


POPOCATAPETL. 


391 


the  heated  breath  of  Tlaloc's  vitals  belched  in  the  face  of  the 
boreal  visitor,  which  rested  like  a  cloak  upon  his  shoulders. 
When  an  opening  in  the  clouds  occurred,  I  descended  over  the 
brim  about  one  hundred  feet,  clinging  to  the  projections  of  por- 
phyritic  rock  to  a  rocky  platform,  whence  the  laborers  in  the 
volcano  were  lowered  to  the  bottom  of  the  crater.  They  had 
not  been  at  work  for  a  month,  and  the  tnalacate,  or  hoisting- 
winch,  was  dismantled ;  but,  by  holding  by  the  great  beams,  I 
could  peer  over  the  brink  into  the  horrible  pit  below.  Directly 
beneath  me  ascended  a  dense  sulphur  cloud,  from  which,  and 
from  various  other  vents  scattered  over  the  surface,  arose  the 
strong  fumes  that  suggested  to  us  the  infernal  regions.  It  is 
from  these  vents,  called  respiradores,  that  the  sulphur  is  ob- 
tained, being  sublimed  upon  the  sides  of  the  crater.  About 
twenty  years  ago,  the  present  owner  of  the  volcano  commenced 
to  work  this  dangerous  sulphur  mine,  removing  the  sulphur  at 
a  great  profit.  At  present  the  only  supply  is  that  from  the 
condensed  fumes,  as  it  is  deposited ;  but  originally  there  was 
the  accumulation  of  centuries. 

Here  is  the  testimony  of  Cortes  himself  as  to  the  finding 
of  it:  "As  for  sulphur,  it  has  been  taken  out  by  a  Spaniard, 
who  descended  seventy  or  eighty  fathoms,  by  means  of  a  rope 
attached  to  his  body  below  his  arms ;  from  which  source  we 
have  so  far  been  enabled  to  obtain  sufficient  supplies,  although 
it  is  attended  wnth  danger." 

In  1625,  an  English  traveller  visited  Mexico,  and  thus  describes 
the  volcano :  "  Popocatapec  is  one  of  the  chief  of  these  fiery 
Mountains,  which  signifieth  a  hill  of  smoak,  for  many  times  it 
casteth  out  smoak  and  fire.  When  Cortes  passed  that  way,  he 
sent  ten  Spaniards  to  view  it,  with  many  Indians  to  carry  their 
victuals  and  guide  them ;  but  two  of  them  went  up  to  the  top, 
and  at  length  came  under  a  great  smoak,  very  thick ;  and  stand- 
ing there  awhile  the  darkness  vanished  away,  and  then  appeared 
the  Vulcan  and  concavity,  out  of  which  the  air  came  rebounding 
with  a  very  great  noise.  The  smoak  and  heat  were  so  great 
that  they  could  not  abide  it  and  were  constrained  to  return. 
But  they  had  not  gone  far  when  the  Vulcan  began  to  flash  out 


392 


TRAVELS    IN    MKXICO. 


flames  of  fire,  ashes,  and  embers ;  yea,  and  at  the  last  stones  of 
burning  fire;  and  if  they  had  not  chanced  to  find  a  rock  under 
which  they  had  shadowed  themselves,  undoubtedly  they  had 
there  been  burned.  Before  the  coming  of  Cortes,  for  ten  years' 
space,  it  had  left  off  expelling  vapour  or  smoak  ;  but  in  the  year 
1540  it  began  again  to  burn,  and  with  the  horrible  noise  thereof 
the  people  that  dwelt  four  leagues  from  it  were  terrified." 


AT   THE   SUxMMIT. 


We  are  told  that  Humboldt  was  the  first  who  reached  the 
crater  brim  in  modern  times ;  and  the  first  really  scientific 
examination  of  it  was  in  1856,  by  a  Mexican  engineer,  General 
Caspar  Sanchez  Ochoa,  who  made  the  height,  by  barometer,  to 
be  19,443  feet  above  sea  level. 

The  entire  depth,  from  the  malacate  to  the  plaza  Jioriaontal, 
or  floor  of  the  crater,  is  about  three  hundred  metres,  the  floor 
itself  being  about  two  hundred  metres  in  circumference,  and  the 
length  of  the  acclivity  some  six  hundred;   the  interior  temper- 


POPOCATAPETL. 


393 


aturc  changes  according  to  the  proximity  of  the  respiradores,  or 
sulphur  vents.  There  are  more  than  sixty  sulfataras,  one  of 
which  is  over  fifty  feet  in  circumference,  and  from  all  parts 
columns  of  smoke  more  or  less  dense,  and  deadly  fumes,  are 
constantly  issuing  forth. 

Complete  daylight  reigns  at  the  bottom  of  the  crater,  but  all 
this  changes  very  quickly  when  a  storm,  or  borrasca,  is  coming 
on ;  then  the  air  becomes  completely  darkened,  and  the  snow 
drifts  thickly  down,  only  to  melt  as  soon  as  it  settles,  the 
respiradores  are  roaring  continually,  the  heat  increases  to  such 
an  extent  as  to  become  insupportable,  while  from  the  centres  of 
the  sidfataras  from  time  to  time  dart  out  flames  and  burning 
matters.  It  will  thus  be  seen  that  the  crater  is  not  a  pleasant 
place  to  work  in,  and  that  the  laborers  there  run  great  risks. 
It  is  quite  difficult  for  General  Ochoa  (to  whom  I  am  indebted 
for  the  above  description  of  the  abyss)  to  obtain  laborers,  as 
one  would  naturally  suppose ;  though  there  is  no  especial  mor- 
tality among  the  men  working  at  this  altitude,  who  labor  in 
gangs,  alternate  weeks,  camping  in  the  crater  beneath  rough 
sheds.  A  sudden  storm  or  earthquake  sometimes  makes  it  un- 
comfortable for  them ;  but  these  volcaneros  arc  a  hardy  class  of 
Indians,  and,  if  well  supplied  with  mescal  and  agiiardiaite,  endure 
their  hardships  wonderfully  well. 

Ascending  again  to  the  brim,  I  pitched  my  camera,  and 
awaited  an  opportunity  to  get  a  view  of  the  crater;  but  just 
then  a  few  snowflakes  drifted  by,  and  the  next  minute  a  violent 
gust  compelled  us  to  seek  shelter  beneath  the  ledge  of  snow. 
The  storm  raged  furiously  for  over  an  hour,  pelting  us  unmer- 
cifully, till  we  were  half  buried  in  the  drifts,  and  threatening 
to  materially  interfere  with  my  photographic  exposures;  but 
taking  advantage  of  a  lull  in  the  gale  I  crept  w^ith  my  guide  to 
what  he  called  the  highest  point, — el  pico,  —  though  without 
getting  a  view  of  the  lower  regions.  We  were  indeed  above  the 
clouds,  and  on  the  very  battle-field  of  the  aerial  elements.  From 
the  dismal  depths  of  the  crater  the  hissing  of  escaping  steam  and 
booming  detonations  told  of  the  activity  of  the  internal  forces, 
while  the  crashing  of  falling  stones  awoke  the  echoes  of  this 
great  basin  in  deafenin";  reverberations. 


394  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

At  last,  after  more  than  three  hours  on  the  mountain-top, 
vainly  looking  for  a  clear  view  over  the  expanse  below,  came 
the  time  for  leaving,  and  I  prepared  to  descend,  first  however  tak- 
ing stock  of  the  provisions  and  drinking  my  canteen  of  cold  tea. 
Wishing  to  make  the  ascent  as  much  a  test  of  endurance  as 
possible,  — as  it  is  certainly  a  test  of  lung  and  vital  power, —  I 
had  not  drunk  or  eaten  anything  since  my  biscuit  and  coffee  of 
the  morning,  having  accomplished  the  ascent  in  six  hours,  with 
nothing  in  my  mouth  but  the  coca. 

If  the  ascent  was  slow  and  tedious,  going  down  was  exactly 
the  reverse.  Down  the  cone,  the  laborers  of  the  last  month  had 
dug  a  long,  straight  trench,  leading  from  the  crater  brim  to  the 
fields  of  volcanic  sand,  over  which  they  used  to  slide  the  sul- 
phur. Had  they  been  working  then  I  should  have  borrowed  a 
petate,  or  mat  of  bulrush,  and  have  slid  down  on  that,  as  they 
were  wont  to  do ;  but  as  they  were  not,  I  stood  up  on  my  broad- 
soled  shoes,  and,  guiding  my  course  with  my  alpenstock,  flew 
downward  with  the  speed  of  the  wind. 

In  less  than  ten  minutes  I  had  left  the  region  of  storms,  and 
had  emerged  into  one  of  calm,  the  snow-cakes  spinning  past  me 
in  away  decidedly  lively ;  in  less  than  two  more  I  had  come  near 
sliding  into  that  zone  of  tropic  heat  we  sometimes  read  about, 
for  my  toe  caught  an  ice-chunk  and  sent  me  burrowing  into  a 
crevice,  looking  for  the  centre  of  the  volcano.  Fortunately, 
there  was  not  room  enough  both  for  me  and  my  clumsy  shoes ; 
so  my  peon  pulled  me  out  in  time  to  prevent  suffocation,  and  set 
me  down  in  the  snow  to  recover.  Then,  with  long  leaps,  we 
sped  down  the  cone  and  out  upon  the  sand,  and  finally  reached 
La  Cruz,  whence  our  descent  to  the  rancho  was  uneventful. 

Popocatapetl  stands  high  among  the  volcanoes,  and  holds  a 
respectable  position  among  mountains  in  general.  "  There  are 
no  Alps,"  quaintly  observes  Friar  Gage,  "  like  unto  it  for  Height, 
cold,  and  constant  Snow  that  lieth  upon  it." 

No  two  authorities  perfectly  agree  as  to  its  altitude  ;  according 
to  Humboldt  (trigonometrical  measurement)  it  is  17,716  feet; 
the  French  savans  made  it  18,362,  and  the  Mexican  geographer, 
Garcia  Cubas,  5,400  metres;  the  limit  of  pines  is  placed  at 
12,544  feet,  and  that  of  vegetation  at  12,963. 


POPOCATAPETL. 


395 


At  sunset  of  the  day  of  our  descent,  Popocatapetl  seemed  on 
fire,  as  his  peak  took  on  a  rosy  glow  that  soon  suffused  the 
whole  cone ;  and  later,  as  the  sun  sank  down,  and  spread  its 
warm  coloring  over  the  eastern  sky,  he  appeared  as  though 
encased  in  burnished  gold ;  but  as  the  glowing  orb  disappeared 
entirely,  he  relapsed  into  livid  white,  standing  there,  a  moun- 
tain of  marble,  against  a  cold  steel-blue  sky.  The  Woman  in 
White  did  not  share  in  this  after-glow  of  the  sun,  but  remained 
resting  without  change  upon  her  bier,  a  slight  mist  draping  and 
giving  her  the  pallor  of  a  corpse. 

It  snowed  that  night  at  the  rancho,  and  the  next  morning 
the  whole  cone  was  covered  deep,  even  down  among  the  pines. 
The  sand-field  that  we  had  ploughed  through  the  day  before 
was  heaped  high  with  drifts,  so  that  we  could  not  have  crossed  it. 
El  Pico  del  Fraile  was  hung  with  huge  icicles,  and  our  hut  was 
white  with  snow,  which  dripped  off  as  the  sun  came  up.  The 
day  was  calm  and  clear,  the  valley  below  was  buried  in  a  dull 
blue  vapor,  through  which  lakes  and  villages  barely  glimmered ; 
and  sparrows  and  snowbirds  gathered  about  the  door,  thus 
completing  the  illusion  of  a  northern  day  in  spring.  Finally, 
we  filed  through  the  valley  pass,  beneath  the  silent  pines, 
breathing  an  air  delicious  with  balsam,  brisk  and  exhilarating, 
and  so  turned  our  backs,  with  deep  regret,  upon  Popocatapetl, 
monarch  by  natural  right  of  Mexico. 


MEXICAN    VOLCANOES. 


1  Popocatapetl. 

2  Iztaccihuatl. 


3  Nevada  de  Toluca. 

4  Ajusco. 


5  Orizaba. 

6  Cofre  de  Perote. 


XX. 


A   JOURNEY   IN   A   DILIGENCE. 

IN  the  week  in  which  the  ascent  of  Popocatapetl  was  under- 
taken, I  was  particularly  favored,  for  it  does  not  often  fall  to 
the  lot  of  man  to  witness  a  genuine,  sanguinary  bull-fight,  to 
climb  to  the  top  of  the  highest  volcano  in  North  America,  and 
to  attend  a  banquet  to  the  highest  dignitary  of  our  country,  all 
within  the  space  of  seven  days. 

Yet  I  accomplished  them  all,  and  to  this  day  cannot  say 
which  I  relished  most,  —  fight,  feast,  or  climb.  I  think  that  our 
Minister's  reception  to  Grant  also  occurred  that  week,  when, 
through  the  kindness  of  our  diplomatic  representative,  Mr.  Mor- 
gan, I  had  the  privilege  of  an  interesting  conversation  with  the 
former  leader  of  our  armies.  General  Grant  confessed  that  he 
too  had  essayed  Popocatapetl,  when  stationed  at  Amecameca, 
during  the  Mexican  war,  and  had  performed  the  ascent  only  after 
a  great  deal  of  difficulty. 

He  was  plain  Lieutenant  Grant  at  that  time ;  but,  though  he 
has  since  climbed  to  grander  heights  than  many  of  his  con- 
temporaries, he  could  not  then  have  been  more  aff"able  and 
delightful  than  we  find  him  at  the  present  day.  Even  now,  I 
believe  he  would  rather  ride  through  the  sombre  pines  of  Popo- 
catapetl, and  feast  his  eyes  upon  the  glorious  scenery  that  greets 
one  when  beyond  the  snow-line,  than  attend  another  one  of  the 
feasts  and  receptions  that  have  of  late  years  wearied  him. 

Banquets  and  receptions  are,  I  suppose,  nearly  the  same  the 
world  over,  the  difference  merely  being  in  the  men  who  give  and 
the  men  who  receive  them ;  all,  as  a  rule,  are  a  "  weariness  to 
the  flesh."  This  granted,  I  take  occasion  to  hasten  away  from 
the  city,  and  start  on  a  little  journey  southward. 


A  JOURNEY   IN   A   DILIGENCE.  397 

The  day  of  the  diligence  —  of  the  good  old-fashioned  stage- 
coach—  in  Mexico  is  drawing  to  a  close,  for  the  railroad  is 
pushing  it  from  point  to  point,  farther  and  farther  into  the  wil- 
derness and  away  from  the  larger  towns  and  cities.  But  there 
are  certain  places  to  which,  even  after  the  advent  of  the  engine, 
the  coach  will  be  preferred  by  travellers  open  to  the  beauty  of 
scenery  along  the  road,  and  who  wish  to  lose  none  of  the  moun- 
tain views  about  the  valley  of  Mexico.  Cuernavaca  is  one  of 
these :  separated  by  mountains  from  the  capital,  the  journey 
thither  by  diligence  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  that  can  be 
made,  for  it  is  surrounded  by  the  halo  of  one  of  the  most 
adventurous  exploits  of  Cortes,  and  lies  in  a  valley  open  to  the 
influences  of  a  perfectly  tropical  climate. 

At  six  in  the  morning,  the  diligence  dashes  out  of  the  great 
portal  of  the  Diligencias  Generales,  rattles  through  the  streets 
awhile,  and  then  takes  to  the  open  plain  surrounding  the  city. 
A  seat  to  Cuernavaca  costs  $4.50,  and  fifty  cents  extra  for  every 
arroba  of  luggage  more  than  one.  Nine  mules  constitute  the 
complement  to  each  team,  and  these  are  kept  on  the  gallop  by 
the  driver,  who  cracks  a  very  long  whip  with  great  energy,  and 
by  his  assistant,  who  casts  stones  at  their  ears  with  an  accuracy 
of  aim  as  wonderful  as  it  is  effective. 

I  had  secured  a  seat  in  the  diligence  with  a  special  view  to 
inspecting  the  scenes  made  famous  by  their  connection  with 
the  ancient  (Spanish)  and  comparatively  recent  (American) 
occupations  of  the  valley  by  the  respective  armies  of  Cortes 
and  Scott;  but  the  jolting  of  the  conveyance  was  such  that  I 
was  sorely  disappointed,  as  well  as  severely  shaken,  and  we 
sped  out  of  the  city  gate,  which  was  menaced  by  the  gallant 
Twiggs,  and  past  Churubusco  with  its  ruined  walls,  where  the 
tide  of  battle  surged  and  ebbed,  and  up  into  the  foot-hills,  with 
hardly  a  glimpse  of  most  ancient  Coyoacan,  where  Cortes  held 
his  headquarters  during  the  siege  of  Mexico.  Even  Mexican 
mules  must  slacken  their  speed,  however,  when  among  the 
roughest  of  Mexican  hills;  and  as  they  paused  a  little  for  breath, 
we  craned  our  necks  out  of  the  windows  for  a  backward  glance 
at  the  great  vale  of  Anahuac,  which  lay  between  us  and  the 


398  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

rising  sun.  Ah,  glorious  valley !  right  willingly  would  I  be 
thumped  and  pounded  by  a  hundred  diligences,  could  I  transport 
myself  at  will  back  to  thy  eastern  or  thy  western  brim  !  How 
sorry  am  I  that  I  was  not  with  Cortes  and  his  knights  when 
they  first  peered  within  its  precincts,  that  I  might  give  vent 
to  my  admiration ;  but  now,  coming  at  this  late  day,  others 
have  preceded  me,  and  have  exhausted  the  vocabulary  of 
praise   in  its  description. 

Yet  consolation  comes  in  the  thought  that  great  minds  have 
been  quickened  by  these  same  scenes,  —  Cortes,  Humboldt, 
Clavigero,  Prescott,  Southey.  Recall,  now,  the  poet's  descrip- 
tion of  the  vale  of  Aztlan,  as  it  burst  upon  the  view  of  the  aston- 
ished and  delighted   Madoc  :  — 

"  From  early  morning  till  the  midnoon  hour 
We  travelled  in  the  mountains  ;  then  a  plain 
Opened  below,  and  rose  upon  the  sight, 
Like  boundless  ocean  from  a  hill  top  seen. 
A  beautiful  and  populous  plain  it  was ; 
Fair  woods  were  there,  and  fertilizing  streams, 
And  pastures  spreading  wide,  and  villages 
In  fruitful  groves  embowered,  and  stately  towns, 
And  many  a  single  dwelling  specking  it. 
As  though  for  many  a  year  the  land  had  been 
The  land  of  peace.     Below  us,  where  the  base 
Of  the  great  mountain  to  the  level  sloped, 
A  broad  blue  lake  extended  far  and  wide. 
Its  waters  dark  beneath  the  light  of  noon. 
There  Aztlan  stood,  upon  the  farther  shore ; 
Amid  the  shade  of  trees  its  dwellings  rose, 
Their  level  roofs  with  turrets  set  around, 
And  battlements  all  burnished  white,  which  shone 
Like  silver  in  the  sunshine." 

I  do  not  wish  to  administer  doses  of  Cortes  ad  nauseam  ;  but 
this  journey  has  as  its  special  object  a  visit  to  the  country-seat 
of  the  famous  conquistador,  acquired  after  he  had  subjected  the 
Aztecs  and  had  been  created  Marquis  of  the  Valley.  The  scene 
of  his  most  remarkable  exploits  lies  before  us,  not  only  in  the 
city  we  have  just  left,  but  at  the  foot  of  the  hills  we  are  now 
climbing.  Nearest  to  us  now  is  the  town  of  Xochimilco,  on  the 
borders  of  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  where  the  brave  Mexi- 


A  JOURNEY   IN   A   DILIGENCE. 


399 


cans  once  came  near  making  the  general  a  prisoner,  and  all  but 
succeeded  in  carrying  him  off  captive  to  the  temple  of  sacrifice, 
where  the  great  drums  of  serpent-skin  were  already  beating  in 
anticipation  of  the  event. 
Ah,  if  they  had  !  But  then 
there  would  have  been  no 
conquest,  and  we  should 
have  been  left  without  an 
object  for  this  little  jour- 
ney. Perhaps  it  was  as 
well  for  all  concerned  that 
he  was  not  taken. 

It  was  noon,  and  we  had 
climbed  up  from  the  valley 
to  an  altitude  which  placed 
us  well  inside  the  zone  of 
tierrafria;  we  had  passed 
gray  and  gnarled  olive  or- 
chards, —  successful  wit- 
nesses to  their  introduc- 
tion from  Spain,  —  vine- 
yards, pulque  plantations, 
and  scattered  villages,  and 
as  the  sun  attained  a  posi- 
tion directly  above  the  val- 
ley we  halted  for  breakfast. 
Not  to  seem  disrespectful, 
I  will  call  La  Guardia  a 
hamlet,  though  one  house 
and  half  a  score  of  huts 
comprised  hamlet  and  ho- 
tel. Chile  con  came  and 
chicken,  frijoles  and  tor- 
tillas, —  the    reader    most  ,.„ 

'  v.«vjv,i  iwoL  ^^   ^^^   ^^^   ^Q   MARKET. 

assuredly  knows  what  these 

are  by  this  time, — washed  down  by  pulque,  was  the  breakfast 

here  given  us,  for  the  sum  of  fifty  cents.     The  hut  was  rough, 


400  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

dirty,  thatched,  its  only  adornment  being  pottery  of  various 
patterns  and  colors,  the  meal  was  hustled  on  to  the  table  in  a 
most  unceremonious  manner,  and  the  driver  drew  his  suste- 
nance from  the  fire  before  it  reached  us ;  yet  we  grumbled  not, 
for  the  table-cloth  was  clean. 

As  we  went  on  we  were  met  by  numerous  Indians,  bearing 
heavy  loads  upon  their  backs,  on  their  way  to  the  market  at 
Mexico.  They  were  cheerful,  though  taciturn,  and  they  excited 
my  wonder  at  their  endurance,  some  of  them  making  a  distance 
of  sixty  miles  to  market.  When  arrived  at  their  destination  they 
sell  their  burdens  for  a  few  reales,  scarcely  ever  more  than  a 
dollar  or  two,  and  trudge  home  contented,  after  filling  their  skins 
full  of  pulque.  The  loads  they  carried  were  crates  of  tomatoes 
and  pumpkins ;  one  had  a  couple  of  dozen  fowls,  another  a  load 
of  parrots,  fifteen  in  number,  for  which  he  asked  two  reales 
each.  Some  of  these  carriers  have  made  (without  burdens) 
the  distance  from  Acapulco  to  Cuernavaca,  eighty  leagues,  in 
seven  days. 

The  last  view  of  the  valley  of  Mexico  is  cut  off  just  before 
La  Guardia  is  reached,  and  about  two  leagues  beyond  is  the 
famous  Cruz  del  Marques,  the  stone  cross  marking  the  boun- 
dary line  of  the  former  possessions  of  Cortes;  and  this  land- 
mark is  at  a  point  9,700  feet  above  the  sea.  A  great  pine  forest 
mantles  the  ridge,  through  which  the  coach  bowls  merrily, 
accompanied  by  the  guard,  —  for  "  road  agents "  here  watch 
their  opportunity  with  an  eye  to  business,  — and  said  "  guard,"  of 
four  soldiers,  in  straw  hats  .and  ragged  cotton  garments,  carry- 
ing rusty  and  antiquated  muskets,  is  forced  to  shuffle  along  on 
foot  at  a  lively  gait,  or  get  left  behind  to  the  tender  mercies  of 
the  bandits. 

The  pine  forests  of  these  mountains  are  all  alike,  resembling 
the  "  parks  "  of  Arizona  and  New  Mexico,  with  great  trees,  cloud- 
reaching,  and  a  soil  thinly  covered  with  grass.  Not  far  beyond 
the  Cruz  del  Marques,  the  descent  begins  into  the  valley  of 
Cuernavaca  and  towards  the  western  coast  This  descent,  from 
the  plateau  to  the  tierra  caliente,  is  more  abrupt  than  on  the 
eastern  slope,  and  consequently  we  dash  at  once  from  one  zone 


A  JOURNEY   IN   A   DILIGENCE.  4OI 

into  the  other,  and  through  the  pines,  while  yet  in  the  moun- 
tains, gain  ghmpses  of  fields  of  sugar-cane  and  the  fresh  verdure 
of  a  foliage  that  frost  never  injures.  We  rattled  down  the  hills, 
crossing  more  streams  than  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  range,  the 
heat  growing  stronger,  though  the  afternoon  was  waning,  and 
reached  the  town  at  four. 

Having  a  letter  to  the  chief  missionary  of  the  Protestants,  from 
my  good  friend  Mr.  Patterson  of  Mexico,  I  set  out  in  quest  of 
him,  and  it  surprised  me  to  learn  that  hardly  any  one  in  this 
very  small  city  could  direct  me  to  the  mission.  At  last  I  found 
el  templo,  the  mission  building,  a  long  and  low  structure  built 
around  two  sides  of  a  square,  and  the  kind  pastor  insisted  that  I 
should  at  once  take  up  my  quarters  with  him.  A  "  shake-down  " 
was  provided,  at  the  expense  of  a  visiting  missionary  from  the 
country,  who  slept  on  two  benches  wrapped  in  his  sarape,  and, 
though  warned  of  the  scorpions  of  Cuernavaca,  which  delight  in 
dropping  upon  a  sleeper  unawares,  I  was  at  an  early  hour  asleep 
in  the  hot  country  again.  The  mission  here,  purchased  with 
much  difficulty  by  Mr.  Patterson,  is  a  valuable  property,  and 
includes  not  only  a  lovely  garden,  and  a  fountain  fed  by  a  per- 
petual stream,  but  a  large  field  of  alfalfa  and  plantains.  The 
devout  and  earnest  Mexican  minister  in  charge  had  collected  a 
flock  of  some  seventy  sincere  converts,  and  was  laboring,  under 
many  disadvantages,  to  add  to  the  number  from  among  his 
neighbors  and  fellow-countrymen.  None  of  them  spoke  Eng- 
lish, but  that  did  not  seem  to  render  them  unhappy,  and  they 
had  acquired  the  good  old  Methodist  fashion  of  calling  one 
another  brothers,  hennajios,  and  sisters,  Jiennaiias,  and  of  pray- 
ing with  an  unction  that  was  all  the  more  impressive  from  being 
in  the  sonorous  Spanish  tongue. 

Now  I  was  not  on  a  religious  mission,  although  my  lines 
were  for  the  nonce  cast  with  the  missionaries ;  but  was  quite 
well  satisfied  with  much  smaller  game  than  that  afforded  by  the 
genus  homo ;  for  while  my  friends  were  directing  their  efforts 
towards  bagging  the  Mexican,  I  was  merely  hunting  birds  and 
butterflies.  But  they  graciously  relaxed  their  pursuit  of  the 
larger  quarry  long  enough  to  accompany  me  on  mine  of  the 

26 


402  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

smaller,  and  hence  I  was  never  without  a  "  brother,"  —  un 
buefi  kermano,  —  to  guide  me  to  the  haunts  of  the  denizens 
of  the  fields. 

Fair  Cuernavaca !  It  well  merits  the  ancient  name,  Ctiaiihna- 
huac,  or  Flower-surrounded.  The  casual  visitor  sees  few  of  its 
charms,  for  they  lie  concealed  in  the  suburbs,  and  in  gardens 
enclosed  by  formidable  walls ;  its  architecture  is  not  of  the 
finest,  and  only  the  convents  and  churches  are  in  any  wise  re- 
markable. The  town  lies  about  four  thousand  feet  above  the 
sea,  built  on  a  spur  of  land  jutting  out  from  the  mountains,  be- 
tween two  barrancas,  or  ravines,  of  great  length  and  dizzy  depth. 
With  heat  and  water  at  command,  its  vegetation  is  luxuriant, 
and  its  suburbs  are  one  continuous  garden. 

At  five  in  the  morning  of  the  31st  of  May,  I  was  awakened  by 
the  singing  of  the  wrens  in  the  roof,  and  shortly  after  Pastor 
Pastrana,  with  two  of  the  ever-faithful  brothers,  guided  me  to 
the  southern  barranca.  It  cannot  be  less  than  two  hundred  feet 
deep,  and  between  its  narrow  walls  a  thread  of  a  stream  tumbles 
to  the  gravelly  bottom,  which  we  reached  by  cautiously  stealing 
along  the  cliff,  and  looked  out  through  the  fleecy  veil  from  a  deep 
cave  worn  by  the  water  behind  it.  Empress  Carlotta  has  been 
here,  and  astonished  the  natives  by  walking  along  a  narrow  shelf 
of  rock  beyond,  where  it  was  very  risky ;  above  were  the  tower- 
ing walls  of  basalt,  below  the  gravelly  bowl,  fifty  feet  across,  into 
which  the  stream  fell.  We  wandered  through  corn-fields,  and 
along  a  side-hill  covered  with  plantains  and  guava  trees,  their 
roots  watered  by  gentle  streams,  and  peered  up  through  their 
branches  at  the  blue  sky  beyond,  but  without  getting  many 
birds,  or  even  moths  or  butterflies. 

Two  great  barrancas,  as  I  have  said,  run  down  from  the  moun- 
tain, and,  meeting  below  Cuernavaca,  enclose  it  in  their  embrace. 
It  thus  occupies  an  almost  impregnable  position,  so  far  as  dan- 
ger from  assault  is  concerned,  and  was  one  of  the  most  diflficult 
of  captures  during  the  Spanish  invasion.  Coming  up  from  the 
lake  of  Chalco,  in  the  spring  of  1521,  while  preparations  were 
going  on  for  the  investment  of  Mexico,  the  Spanish  army  at- 
tacked Cuernavaca.     For  a  long  time  they  could  make  no  head- 


A   JOURNEY   IN   A   DILIGENCE. 


403 


way,  so  well  protected  was  the 
town  by  these  deep  ravines. 
At  last,  while  searching  for  a 
bridge,  some  of  the  soldiers 
found  a  spot  where  two  trees 
had  fallen  across  the  narrow, 
though  abysmal  chasm,  and 
over  these,  at  the  risk  of 
their  lives,  the  brave  fellows 
crawled,  rallied  on  the  other 
side,  and  captured  the  town. 
I  could  never  credit  this 


achievement,  as 
given  by  the  old 
chroniclers,  until  I 
myself  had  viewed 
the  very  ravine,  per- 
haps at  the  same 
spot  crossed  by  the 
conquerors ;  then  I 
readily  believed  it, 
and  saw  that  it  was 
possible,  though 
hazardous,  for  them  to  accomplish  it,  and  do  not  wonder  that 
some  fell,  through  dizziness,  and  were  killed.     It  is  the  eastern 


THE   DOUBLE   AQUEDUCT. 


404  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

chasm  that  is  narrowest,  being  about  seventy  feet  in  depth  and 
not  over  thirty  (I  should  think)  in  breadth ;  and  it  is  spanned 
by  the  quaintest  structure  of  masonwork  for  a  bridge  that  ever 
leaped  across  a  ravine,  being  a  double  arch,  one  of  which  car- 
ries an  aqueduct,  from  which  the  water  trickles  down  the  steep, 
fern-hung  walls  of  stone,  and  patters  far  below  into  the  water 
beneath.  Among  many  rough  sketches  of  Mexican  scenery 
contained  in  a  portfolio  stolen  from  me  in  the  city  of  Mexico, 
was  one  of  this  old  bridge ;  and  the  only  consolation  I  ever  got 
from  this  loss  was  the  reflection  that  among  other  papers  then 
lost  was  a  particularly  caustic  description  of  the  Mexican  him- 
self, drawn  as  from  the  standpoint  of  a  decided  pessimist. 

The  greatest  attraction  in  town,  save  one,  is  the  "  Garden 
of  Laborde."  In  the  year  1743,  a  poor  youth  named  Laborde 
came  to  Mexico,  where  eventually  he  gained  immense  wealth, 
twice  making,  and  once  losing,  a  vast  fortune,  which  at  his  death 
he  gave  to  the  Church.  In  Cuernavaca  he  built  a  biien  retirOy  a 
pleasure  garden,  on  a  more  magnificent  scale  than  any  since  the 
time  of  the  Aztec  and  Tezcocan  monarchs.  This  magnificent 
work  of  a  century  ago  is  still  in  good  preservation  here,  and  is 
shown  to  visitors,  who  are  admitted  at  the  cost  of  a  real  each. 
The  grounds  adjoin  a  church  and  convent,  founded  by  Laborde, 
that  now  are  going  to  ruin,  and  run  back  from  one  of  the  princi- 
pal streets  of  the  town  to  the  brink  of  the  western  ravine.  At 
the  angles  of  the  high  and  massive  walls  belleviies  arise,  com- 
manding extensive  and  beautiful  prospects,  directly  above  the 
barranca,  overlooking  its  winding  course  and  the  great  sweep 
of  mountain  and  plain  to  the  south  and  to  the  west.  To  these 
bellevues  broad  stone  ways  lead  up  from  the  centre  of  the  garden, 
covered  with  hard  plaster,  painted  in  red  and  white,  bordered 
with  stone  pillars  supporting  vases  of  flowers.  The  grand  fea- 
ture of  this  garden,  with  its  palms  and  ferns,  its  choice  exotics 
and  profusest  vegetation,  is  the  central  lakelet  in  a  stone  basin 
five  hundred  feet  long,  with  artificial  islets  containing  magueys 
and  tropical  plants.  There  is  water  enough  stored  here  for  the 
supply  of  a  small  town ;  it  gushes  out  everywhere,  in  fountains, 
into  reservoirs  of  hewn  stone,  and  is  guided  in  rivulets  to  the  feet 


A  JOURNEY    IN   A   DILIGENCE.  405 

of  golden-fruited  mangos  and  oranges.  What  a  paradise  it  must 
have  been  in  the  time  of  its  owner,  the  forttinate  miner,  and 
what  a  deHghtful  retreat  for  the  unctuous  padres  who  subse- 
quently came  into  possession  of  it !  Above  the  trees  towers  the 
dome  of  the  old  church,  and  alleys  covered  over  by  giant  roses 
and  grape-vines  lead  up  to  the  refectory  of  the  convent,  where 
once  the  good  monks  regaled  themselves. 

After  the  subjugation  of  its  original  possessors,  Cuernavaca 
attracted  to  itself  many  Spaniards,  but  none  was  so  successful  as 
the  Marquis,  Cortes  the  Conqueror,  who  here  built  his  country 
residence,  —  in  fact,  established  himself  here,  devoting  himself 
to  agricultural  pursuits  with  an  ardor  only  equalled  by  that  with 
which  he  had  pursued  the  Indians  a  few  years  before.  Go  down 
the  street  leading  to  the  eastern  part  of  the  town,  and  there  you 
will  find  El  Palacio  de  Cortes,  the  Castle  of  Cortes,  the  verita- 
ble building  which  he  built  for  his  own  dwelling,  and  in  which 
he  planned  the  cultivation  of  his  ample  estate,  and  later  the  dis- 
covery of  the  Gulf  of  California  and  the  peninsula.  To  him  the 
planters  were  indebted  for  the  introduction  of  Merino  sheep,  it 
is  said,  and  for  the  first  sugar-cane  that  ever  lifted  its  tasselled 
head  beneath  the  sun  of  Mexico.  It  was  right  here,  in  this  vale 
of  Cuernavaca,  that  these  things  transpired,  three  centuries  and 
a  half  ago ;  and  not  only  the  old  castle,  with  battlemented  roof 
and  arched  entrances,  remains,  yet  in  good  preservation,  to  re- 
mind us  of  the  industry  of  Cortes,  but  the  valley  plains  are  wav- 
ing billows  of  green  and  succulent  cane.  The  castle  itself,  now 
occupied  as  a  municipal  building,  rises  directly  above  the  eastern 
barranca,  and  from  the  upper  corridor,  where  are  the  halls  of 
justice,  is  a  grand  view  of  the  town,  with  its  three  large  churches, 
its  stone  houses,  and  its  gardens.  Eastward  are  many  lovely 
cabins,  just  peeping  out  of  gardens  of  fruit  trees,  a  varied  carpet 
of  green  from  which  a  dome  protrudes  here  and  there,  and  the 
plains  sweep  away  below.  This  was  a  well-chosen  spot,  for  it 
commands  not  only  the  valley  and  the  mountain  passes,  but 
views  extending  away  east  to  Popocatapetl. 

There  are  vast  sugar  estates  below  the  town,  some  of  the  ha- 
ciendas dating  from  the  period  of  the  conquest,  and  producing 


406  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

a  million  pounds  each  of  sugar  annually,  it  is  said,  besides 
coffee  and  cacao.  These  haciendas  have  great  mills  equipped 
with  the  best  machinery  known  for  crushing  the  cane,  evaporat- 
ing and  crystallizing  the  juice,  and  distilling  rum  therefrom.  In 
themselves,  they  do  not  cover  a  great  stretch  of  territory,  but 
monopolize  all  the  fertile  land  in  the  entire  region.  What  I 
would  say  is,  that  there  is  not  the  faintest  show  of  an  oppor- 
tunity for  foreign  capital  or  energy  to  work  to  advantage  in  or 
near  the  valley  of  Cuernavaca.  And  this  statement  will  apply 
in  a  measure  to  nearly  every  portion  of  Mexico,  especially  as 
regards  operations  in  agriculture. 

One  morning — it  was  the  ist  of  June  —  my  clerical  friend 
and  myself  went  down  among  the  coffee  groves,  and  were  di- 
rected to  search  for  birds  in  a  near  plantation,  to  reach  which 
we  passed  through  a  nicely  cultivated  field  of  sweet  potatoes, 
and  then  followed  a  wall  and  an  irrigating  ditch  to  the  banana 
and  plantain  forest.  Ah,  the  beauty  of  these  gardens  of  plan- 
tains, which  fully  realize  one's  idea  of  an  Eden  in  the  tropics  ! 
Nothing  else  grows  beneath  them,  —  nothing  there  but  their 
great  silken,  banana-like  leaves,  hanging  from  the  smooth  stems, 
arching  over  you,  and  perhaps  trailing  on  the  ground. 

We  crossed,  later,  a  deep  barranca,  and  came  to  a  village 
hidden  in  trees,  where  streamlets  gurgled  through  the  streets, 
and  the  gardens  were  full  of  flowers.  In  the  yard  of  one  of  the 
cabins  we  beheld  a  phenomenon  which  we  could  not  account 
for,  —  a  tree  with  bare  limbs  ejecting  fine  streams  of  water 
which  fell  in  spray.  I  wondered  at  it,  but  accepted  the  fact 
that  the  tree  did  it,  and  was  about  putting  it  down  in  my  note- 
book, —  "  Great  discovery ;  wonderful  weeping-tree  of  Cuerna- 
vaca." But  just  as  we  were  going  away,  I  thought  I  saw 
something  move,  and  by  attentive  examination  made  out  an 
insect  called  there  the  chicJiarra  {Cicada  spwnaria,  or  harvest- 
fly).  The  tree  was  covered  with  them,  squirting  in  all  direc- 
tions, and  giving  to  it  the  strange  appearance  that  had  attracted 
our  attention.  There  was  something  that  might  have  been 
published  as  a  botanical  curiosity  changed  into  merely  an  insect 
phenomenon  !     These  insects  were  old  acquaintances,  after  all, 


A   JOURNEY    IN   A   DILIGENCE.  407 

as  I  had  seen  them  in  abundance  in  the  island  of  Tobago,  near 
the  coast  of  South  America,  where  they  make  a  noise  so  much 
like  the  distant  whistle  of  a  locomotive  that  I  have  often  jumped 
from  some  solitary  path,  on  hearing  one  suddenly  start  up, 
thinking  a  steam-engine  was  close  behind  me. 

In  directing  our  steps  toward  a  chapel  called  Chapultepec, 
we  had  to  cross  a  field  in  which  some  men  were  working,  and 
waded  through  a  rich  crop  of  alfalfa.  A  dog  barked  at  us,  but 
the  owner  did  not  "  sing  out,"  as  a  Northern  farmer  would  have 
done,  "What  ye  doin'  in  that  grass?"  He  saluted  us  politely, 
and  kindly  pointed  out  to  us  the  road  to  take.  And  so  we  went 
on,  through  lanes  bordered  by  flowering  trees,  until  we  reached 
the  chapel,  into  the  tower  of  which  we  climbed  for  a  view,  and 
found  a  stone  there  with  the  date  afio  de  1739,  —  pretty  old  for 
the  United  States,  but  recent  for  Mexico.  I  gave  some  boys 
there  a  centavo  each,  at  which  a  smile  rippled  all  over  them,  and 
when  we  came  to  leave,  they  bade  us  a  most  affectionate  good 
by.  I  remarked  that  they  seemed  like  very  good  boys,  but 
my  friend  the  missionary  objected,  saying  that  they  were  muy 
fanaticos ;  that  the  priest  was  their  only  god,  —  El  padre  es  el 
dios  del  ptieblo ;  that  it  was  a  bad  place,  where  they  frequently 
killed  the  Protestants,  —  Ellos  mataron  los  Protestantes.  It  may 
have  been  so,  though  I  saw  nothing  but  peace  and  good  will ; 
or  it  may  be  that  he,  being  a  Protestant  Mexican,  is  prejudiced. 
But  he  said  they  threatened  to  kill  him,  only  a  year  ago,  and  I 
suppose  I  might  feel  the  same,  if  they  had  offered  to  kill  me. 

My  friend  risked  his  life  pretty  freely,  at  all  events,  in  going 
about  with  me,  for  there  was  scarcely  a  place  of  interest  which 
we  did  not  visit.  On  June  2d  we  set  out  for  the  famous,  yet 
little  known  ruins  of  Xochicalco,  about  the  locality  of  which 
my  guide  knew  as  little  as  myself,  yet  he  confidently  engaged 
to  pilot  me  to  the  spot. 

The  road  we  were  following  was  the  famous  "Acapulco  Trail," 
leading  from  that  part  of  the  Pacific  to  the  city  of  Mexico,  and 
which  has  been  worn  by  the  feet  of  countless  mules  and  burros 
for  three  hundred  years  and  over.  It  is  a  twelve-days  journey 
from  the  capital  to  Acapulco,  and  one  must  procure  his  entire 


408  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

outfit  in  the  city  he  leaves,  unless  he  chance  to  fall  in  with  a  con- 
ducta  on  the  route,  which  is  of  rare  occurrence.  That  picturesque 
port  of  Acapulco  has  of  late  years  fallen  into  disuse,  since  new 
ways  have  been  opened  across  the  continent,  but  in  olden  times 
it  was  a  busy  and  a  celebrated  maritime  city:  To  it  went,  and 
from  it  sailed,  all  those  grand  old  galleons,  which  performed 
their  portion  of  the  voyage  between  the  Indies  and  Spain,  six 
months,  sometimes,  on  the  voyage  between  Manilla  and  the 
Mexican  coast.  Arrived  there,  the  rich  freightage  was  trans- 
ported overland  by  a  thousand  mules  and  donkeys,  and  such 
portion  as  was  not  sold  in  Mexico  reshipped  at  Vera  Cruz  for 
Spain.  Sometimes  the  cargo  reached  the  value  of  two  million 
dollars ;  and  as  but  one  ship  arrived  in  the  year,  it  was  looked 
for  by  merchants  and  mariners  along  the  entire  coast  of  Mex- 
ico. It  brought  calicoes  and  muslins,  silks,  jewels,  and  spices, 
and  carried  back  silver,  cochineal,  cacao,  and  monks  and  priests 
as  passengers.  Bret  Harte  gives  the  best  picture  of  those  golden 
days  in  his  "  Lost  Galleon  "  :  — 

"  In  sixteen  hundred  and  forty-one. 
The  regular  yearly  galleon, 
Laden  with  odorous  gums  and  spice, 
India  cotton  and  India  rice, 
And  the  richest  silks  of  far  Cathay, 
Was  due  at  Acapulco  Bay. 

The  trains  were  waiting  outside  the  walls, 
The  wives  of  sailors  thronged  the  town, 
The  traders  sat  by  their  empty  stalls, 
And  the  Viceroy  himself  came  down  ; 
The  bells  in  the  tower  were  all  atrip, 
Te  Deums  were  on  each  father's  lip, 
The  limes  were  ripening  in  the  sun 
For  the  sick  of  the  coming  galleon." 

More  ancient  than  the  institution  of  trade  between  Mexico 
and  the  Indies  was  the  object  of  our  search  that  morning  in 
early  June.  "  Six  leagues  from  Cuernavaca,"  says  a  writer  of 
forty  years  ago,  "lies  a  cerro,  three  hundred  feet  in  height, 
which,  with  the  ruins  that  cover  it,  is  known  as  Xochicalco,  or 
the  '  Hill  of  Flowers.'     The  base  of  this  eminence  is  surrounded 


A   JOURNEY    IN   A   DILIGENCE. 


409 


by  the  very  distinct  remains  of  a  deep  and  wide  ditch ;  its  sum- 
mit is  attained  by  five  spiral  terraces ;  the  walls  that  support 
them  are  built  of  stone  joined  by  cement,  and  are  still  quite 
perfect;  and  at  regular  distances,  as  if  to  buttress  these  terraces, 
there  are  remains  of  bulwarks  shaped  like  the  bastions  of  a  for- 
tification. The  summit  of  the  hill  is  a  wide  esplanade,  on  the 
eastern  side  of  which  are  still  perceptible  three  truncated  cones, 
resembling  the  tumuli  found  among  many  similar  ruins  in  Mex- 


EL   CASTILLO,    XOCHICALCO. 

ico.  The  Castillo,  on  the  top  of  the  last  terrace,  is  a  rectangular 
building,  measuring  above  the  plinth  sixty-four  feet  long  by 
fifty-eight  deep  on  the  western  points,  and  faces  in  exact  corre- 
spondence with  the  cardinal  points." 

At  a  little  hamlet  called  Xochitl,  we  found  Sefior  Carpentero, 
a  brother  Methodist,  who  lived  in  a  thatched  hut  with  the  eaves 
but  three  feet  from  the  ground,  and  who  furnished  us  with  a 
guide  for  the  pyramid.  The  guide  demanded  fifty  cents  for  his 
services,  expecting,  apparently,  that  I  would  be  deterred  from 
my  purpose  by  such  an  exorbitant  price ;   but  I  closed  the  bar- 


4IO  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

gain  at  once,  and  he  mounted  his  jackass,  hung  a  calabash  of 
water  to  his  saddle,  and  led  the  way  to  the  sugar  hacienda  of 
Xochitl,  whence  we  took  a  path  among  the  hills  of  Xochicalco. 
All  the  fields  were  thickly  covered  with  volcanic  debris,  and  the 
open  shaft  of  many  a  mine  showed  that  silver  had  been  found 
here  in  small  quantity.  The  heat  was  intense,  and  I  was  in 
agony  from  it  for  nearly  two  hours,  until  we  reached  the  great 
hill,  and  slowly  climbed  the  terraced  slopes. 

As  this  hill  commands  the  whole  valley,  save  for  another  cerro 
to  the  east,  a  glorious  prospect  is  spread  around,  but  chiefly  of 
barren  hill  and  plain,  with  two  lovely  lakes  lying  to  the  south, 
and  barrancas  everywhere  dividing  the  surface.  This  cerro  is 
directly  north  from  the  valley  of  Mexico,  and  the  lights  of  the 
people  who  occupied  it  must  have  guided  the  ancient  Aztecs  as 
they  came  from  their  capital,  going  south,  for  it  is  in  full  view 
from  the  mountains.  "  The  stones  of  the  crowning  structure 
are  laid  upon  each  other  without  cement,  and  kept  in  place  by 
their  weight  alone ;  and  as  the  sculpture  of  a  figure  is  seen  to 
run  over  several  of  them,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  bassi 
rilievi  were  cut  after  the  pyramid  was  erected."  Stones  seven 
feet  in  length  by  nearly  three  in  breadth  are  seen  here,  and  all 
the  great  blocks  of  porphyry  which  composed  the  building,  and 
perhaps  encased  the  entire  cerro,  were  brought  from  a  distance, 
and  borne  up  a  hill  three  hundred  feet  in  height. 

As  a  ruin  little  visited,  and  standing  apart  from  every  other 
group  in  Mexico,  not  only  isolated  by  position,  but  unique  in 
its  structure  and  carvings,  this  Castillo  of  Xochicalco  deserves 
minute  description.  It  was  mentioned  by  Humboldt,  perhaps 
visited  by  him,  as  he  came  up  to  the  Mexican  valley  from 
Acapulco,  and  must  have  passed  within  a  few  leagues  of  it  on 
the  road ;  but  the  last  writer  who  refers  to  it  wrote  over  thirty 
years  ago.     He  says :  — 

"  Who  the  builders  of  this  pyramid  were,  no  one  can  tell. 
There  is  no  tradition  of  them,  or  of  their  temple.  When  first 
discovered,  no  one  knew  to  what  it  had  been  devoted,  or  who 

had  built  it.     It  had  outlasted  both  history  and  memory 

No  one  who  examines  the  figures  with  which  it  is  covered  can 


A  JOURNEY   IN   A   DILIGENCE. 


411 


fail  to  connect  the  designs  with  the  people  who  dwelt  and  wor- 
shipped in  the  palaces  and  temples  of  Uxmal  and  Palenque." 

After  we  had  rested  and  had  examined  the  massive  structure 
at  the  summit,  myself  and  the  missionary  crept  over  the  hill  by 
a  narrow  path,  through  thick  bushes,  and  found  a  black  hole 
leading  underground  into  a  great  cavern.  This  cavern,  or  series 
of  vaults,  was  partially  explored  by  order  of  government,  nearly 
fifty  years  ago  ;  but  the  superstitions  of  the  Indians  (who  believe 
them  haunted  by  the  spirits  of  their  ancestors)  prevented  a 
thorough  examination.     We   investigated  the   chambers  as  far 


SCULPTURED  FRAGMENT  FROM  PALENQUE. 


as  we  could  by  the  aid  of  a  sputtering  candle,  and  were  lost  in 
wonder  at  their  height  and  extent.  The  old  explorers  mention 
a  "  cupola  "  of  cut  stones,  diminishing  gradually  in  size  as  they 
neared  the  top,  and  forming  a  beaudful  mosaic,  with  an  aper- 
ture through  the  roof  of  the  cavern,  which  was  supposed  to 
lead  to  the  temple  above.  This  we  found  in  the  centre  of 
the  main  saloon,  said  to  be  ninety  feet  in  length,  but  it  was 
divested  of  its  cut  and  wrought  stone.  Instead,  we  found  that 
the  walls  and  floor  were  covered  with  a  very  hard  and  smooth 
cement. 

Although  these  crypts  may  have  connection  with  the  temple 


412 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


on  the  summit  of  the  hill,  yet  the  caves  we  entered,  two  in 
number,  were  in  a  cerrito,  at  a  Httle  distance  from  that  support- 
ing the  Castillo.  Chill  and  damp  were  these  caverns,  though 
outside  was  the  terrible  heat  of  a  Mexican  midsummer  noon. 
Scorpions  and  serpents  were  said  to  lurk  here, — this  is  the  ex- 
cuse the  Indians  gave  for  not  wishing  to  explore  the  dark  pas- 
sages, —  yet  we  saw  none.  Doubtless,  some  one  could  find 
here  sufficient  to  reward  him  for  a  week  of  arduous  labor.  We 
had  not  the  time  nor  the  money  for  exploration,  and  so  we 
turned  away  from  these  grand  ruins  with  reluctance. 

Of  the  journey  back  to  Cuernavaca  I  recall  little  that  would 
seem  of  interest,  except  a  solitary  Indian  village,  where  the 
people  seemed  to  shun  us,  and  an  ancient  stone  bridge,  span- 
ning a  deep  ravine  by  a  single  arch,  and  just  wide  enough, 
without  an  inch  to  spare,  for  our  horses  to  walk  across  it.  My 
guide  said  it  was  made  by  the  very  ancient  Indians,  the  same 
who  built  the  Castillo,  and  was  used  by  them  on  their  pilgrim- 
ages to  the  valley  of  Mexico.  It  is  not  improbable,  as  its  arch 
was  not  the  true  arch  of  the  present  day,  but  nearly  approach- 
ing that  seen  in  the  Maya  ruins  of  Yucatan,  and  its  every  aspect 
indicates  great  age,  and  a  workmanship  entirely  different  from 
Spanish  or  modern  Mexican. 

It  was  a  matter  of  great  regret  that  I  could  not  visit  the  great 
cave,  called  Cacahuamilpa,  situated  to  the  southwest  of  Cuerna- 
vaca some  thirty  miles,  which  is  of  unknown  extent,  though  it 
has  been  explored  for  a  distance  of  three  or  four  leagues.  Its 
existence  was  unknown  previous  to  1835,  when  a  criminal  used 
it  as  a  place  of  refuge,  and  it  was  subsequently  explored.  Cele- 
brated travellers  have  visited  this  famous  cave,  and  only  a  few 
years  ago  a  great  cavalcade  of  Mexican  notables,  headed  by 
the  President,  made  a  journey  to  the  place,  and  met  with 
numerous  accidents  and  incidents.  The  entrance  to  this  enor- 
mous cavern  is  about  one  hundred  feet  in  width,  the  passage 
descending  to  a  vast  gallery  divided  fantastically  into  different 
salas,  or  halls,  to  which  the  different  fancies  of  travellers  have 
given  different  names.  The  first  is  the  Sala  del  Chivo,  or  the 
Goat  Saloon,  from  an  agglomeration  of  stalactites  in  the  shape 


A  JOURNEY   IN   A   DILIGENCE. 


413 


of  an  enormous  goat,  which  was  the  terror  of  all  the  Indians 
until  some  one  broke  off  and  carried  away  its  head. 

Next  is  the  Sala  del  Miierto,  or  Saloon  of  the  Dead,  because 
in  it  was  found  the  skeleton  of  a  man  partially  covered  with  a 
crystalline  deposit.  The  Saloon  of  the  Palm,  El  Ti-oiica  de  la 
Palina,  contains  a  glorious  stalagmite  of  a  palm  white  as  ala- 
baster, and  thence  a  flight  of  natural  steps  lead  into  the  Saloon 
of  the  Cauliflowers,  or  the  Chandeliers.  In  the  Organ  Gallery, 
Sala  de  los   Organos,   there  is  "  an  amphitheatre  with  regular 


CAVERN    OF   CACAHUAMILPA. 

benches,  surmounted  by  a  great  organ,  whose  pipes,  when 
struck,  give  forth  a  deep  sound."  And  —  it  has  been  declared 
by  every  one  who  has  been  there  —  all  these  glorious  galleries 
are  adorned  by  nature's  hand  with  objects  of  such  beauty  that 
no  description  can  do  them  justice. 

Forms  of  bewildering  beauty  greet  the  gaze  of  the  explorer 
everywhere,  and  to  one  who  delights  in  the  strange  and  weird, 
the  trip  to  Cacahuamilpa,  difficult  though  it  is,  would  be  an  ex- 
tremely profitable  undertaking.  Guides  can  be  obtained  at  the 
neighboring  village,  with  various  colored  lights  and  fireworks  to 


414 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


illuminate  the  crystal  walls,  and  scanty  information  may  some- 
times be  extracted  from  the  innkeepers  of  Cuernavaca.  The 
best  account  of  it  I  have  been  able  to  find  is  contained  in 
Madam  Calderon's  "Life  in  Mexico,"  and  in  U^ia  Excursioji  a  la 
Caverna  de  Cacahuamilpa,  by  Senor  Antonio  Cubas.  The  last- 
named  author  is  a  faithful  and  picturesque  writer,  a  geographer 
and  statistician.  He  makes  mention  of  Cuernavaca  as  one  of 
the  loveliest  retreats  of  the  ticrra  calietite,  and  calls  attention  to 
the  gardens  of  Maximilian,  within  a  league  of  the  town. 


XXL 


THE   MEXICAN   RAILWAY   MOVEMENT. 

ONCE  in  the  city  of  Mexico,  we  find  ourselves  at  the  start- 
ing-place and  the  objective  point  of  nearly  all  the  railways 
of  the  republic,  from  the  multitude  of  which  it  is  somewhat  dif- 
ficult to  determine  where  all  are  coming  from,  and  where  they 
will   find  terminal   stations. 

The  growth  and  development  of  these  great  lines  has  had  an 
important  bearing  upon  the  progress  of  Mexico  and  the  expan- 
sion of  her  commerce,  —  not  to  speak  of  their  influence  in 
promoting  commercial  and  social  intercourse  with  the  United 
States,  —  and  without  a  chapter  exclusively  devoted  to  rail- 
roads this  work  would  be  incomplete.  It  may,  however,  be 
passed  over  by  the  general  reader,  without  interrupting  the 
continuity  of  my  narrative  of  travel. 

It  was  in  the  year  1837  that  the  first  government  decree  was 
issued  granting  a  concession  for  the  building  of  a  railroad,  from 
the  city  of  Mexico  to  Vera  Cruz ;  but  the  projector  was  unable 
to  construct  any  portion  of  the  road,  and  the  grant  was  declared 
forfeited.  On  the  ist  of  May,  1842,  an  exclusive  privilege  was 
given  for  establishing  a  line  across  the  isthmus  of  Tehuantepec, 
and  on  the  31st  of  the  same  month  Santa  Anna,  then  occupy- 
ing the  chair  of  the  Executive,  decreed  the  re-establishment  of 
an  old  duty  at  the  customs,  called  averia,  or  average,  the  pro- 
duct of  which  tax  (two  per  cent  additional  over  and  above  all 
import  duties)  was  to  be  given  to  promote  the  building  of  a 
railroad  inland  from  Vera  Cruz. 

This  road  was  commenced,  but  the  first  really  energetic  work 
looking  to  the  connection  of  the  coast  and  the  table  land  was 
in  1857,  when  Don  Antonio  Escandon  secured  the  right  to  con- 


4l6  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

struct  a  line  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the  Pacific.  Revolu- 
tions disturbed  the  country,  so  that  several  years  elapsed  before 
active  labor  was  entered  upon,  but  in  1863  Sefior  Escandon  was 
secured  in  his  concession,  and  a  consolidated  fund  of  the  pub- 
lic debt  was  created,  amounting  to  $8,000,000,  bearing  five  per 
cent  interest,  the  capital  to  be  paid  up  at  the  end  of  twenty- 
five  years. 

The  war  of  the  intervention  prevented  operations  until,  in 
1864,  Senor  Escandon  transferred  his  concession  to  the  "  Impe- 
rial Mexican  Railway  Company,"  which  transfer  was  approved 
by  Maximilian  in  January,  1865.  After  these  various  delays, 
work  was  begun  at  either  end,  and  on  the  restoration  of  the 
republic  one  hundred  and  thirty-four  miles  were  found  com- 
pleted. Although,  upon  the  resumption  of  power  by  Juarez, 
the  concession  was  declared  forfeited,  "  for  having  contracted 
with  a  government  seeking  the  overthrow  of  the  Mexican  repub- 
lic," yet,  in  May,  1867,  a  decree  was  issued  restoring  its  rights, 
and  in  November  of  that  year  work  was  resumed.  Under  the 
general  direction  of  Mr.  Buchanan,  C.  E.,  the  rugged  country 
between  Orizaba  and  the  plateau  was  entered ;  in  September, 
1869,  the  branch  line  from  Apizaco  to  Puebla  was  inaugurated, 
and  the  section  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Atoyac,  fifty  miles  in  length, 
was  opened  in  1870.  The  important  city  of  Orizaba  was  placed 
in  connection  with  the  coast  in  September,  1872,  and  on  the 
1st  of  January,  1873,  the  entire  line  was  completed  from  the 
Gulf  to  the  city  of  Mexico,  and  solemnly  inaugurated  by  Senor 
Lerdo  de  Tejada,  President  of  the  republic.-^ 

The  advantages  resulting  from  the  completion  of  the  "  Mexi- 
can Railway,"  as  this  first  iron  road  in  the  country  was  called, 
were  so  manifest,  that  it  soon  seemed  equally  desirable  that 
Mexico  should  have  rail  connection  with  the  United  States.  To 
this  end  many  persons  sought  government  aid.  Under  the  wise 
rule  of  Lerdo  and  the  progressive  administration  of  Diaz,  all  en- 
terprises of  this  character  were  encouraged.  Capital  was  eager 
to  invest  in  railways  in  a  country  that  possessed  neither  canals 

1  See  History  of  the  Mexican  Railway,  Mexico,  1876;  and  Los  FerrocarriUs  Mexi- 
canos,  Mexico,  1881. 


RAILWAYS    AT  THE   CAPITAL. 

27 


THE   MEXICAN   RAILWAY   MOVEMENT. 


419 


nor  navigable  rivers,  and  under  a  government  which  seemed  dis- 
posed to  foster  all  undertakings  which  promised  the  development 
of  its  internal  resources.  In  1881,  in  a  pamphlet  entitled  Los 
Ferrocarriles  Mexicanos,  an  eminent  Mexican  published  a  list  of 
forty-two  concessions,  —  since  increased  by  five  others,  —  few 
of  which  had  subventions  (or  government  aid)  less  than  $8,000 
per  kilometre.  Many  of  these  are  small  concessions,  several 
will  fail  to  be  built  from  lack  of  capital,  and  most  of  them 
have  been  merged  into  the  greater  lines,  such  as  the  Central 
and  the  National. 

The  concessions  granted  by  the  Mexican  government,  up  to 
date,  are  as  follows :  — 


Name  of  Railroad. 


1  Tehuacan  to  Esperanza 

2  Celaya  to  Leon  and  Gua- 

najuato  

3  Mexico    to  Toluca    and 

Cuautitlan 

4  Salamanca     to      Pacific 

Coast 

5  Ometusco    to     Pachuca 

and  Tulancingo 

6  San  Luis  Potosi  to  Tan- 

toyuquita 

7  Lagos  and    Guadalajara 

to  San  Bias 

8  Celaya  to  San  Juan  del 

Rio  

9  Tehuacan  to  Puerto  An- 

gel by  Oaxaca 

10  Vera  Cruz  to  Alvarado.. 

u  Tantoyuquita  to  boun- 
dary line  between  San 
Luis  and  Tamaulipas  . . 

12  Merida  to  Peto   passing 

by  Ticul  andTekax  ... 

13  Zacatecas  to  S.  Luis,  A- 

giiascalientes,  &  Lagos 

14  Port  of  Manzanillo  to  To- 

nila. 

15  Mexico  to   the   bank   of 

the  .'^macuzac 

16  Matamoras  Izucar 

17  San  Martin  Texmelucan 

18  Cuautitlan  to  Salto 

19  Tehuantepec  

20  Matamoros  to  Monterey 

21  Mexico  to  Acapulco 

22  Chihuahua    to  Villa    del 

Paso  or  that  of  Ojinaga 

23  Patzcuaro  to  Moreha  and 

Salamanca. 


Date 
Concess 

of 
on. 

Aug.  14, 

1877 

Dec.  21, 

1877 

Dec.  22, 

1877 

Jan.  28, 

1878 

Feb.  2, 

1878 

"  14, 

1878 

"  27, 

1878 

"   28, 

1878 

Mar.  22, 
"  25, 

1878 
1878 

"  27, 

1878 

"   28, 

1878 

"   28, 

1878 

"  30, 

1878 

April  16, 
May  6, 
Nov.  14, 
April  2, 
June  2, 
June  7, 

1878 
1878 
1878 
1S79 
1879 
1880 

1880 

July  9. 

1880 

"   IS. 

1880 

To  what  Parties 
granted. 


General  Government 
Gov't  of  Guanajuato 


Gov't  of   Michoacan 

of  Hidalgo 

San  Luis  Potosi 

Jalisco 

Queretaro 


"    Oaxaca 

"    Vera  Cruz 


"    Tamaulipas . 
"     Yucatan 


"     Zacatecas,  etc. 
"    Colima 


"     Morelos 

"     Puebla 

General  Government 

Toluca  Company 

Edward  Learned 

Gov't  of  Tamaulipas 

"     Guerrreo 


Chihuahua 
Michoacan 


bis 

C  0 

5,     !4 

50 

I2S 

8000 

120 

8000 

660 

8000 

92 

Sooo 

209 

8000 

737 

8000 

104 

8000 

S19 
132 

8000 
8000 

105 

8000 

126 

6000 

448 

8000 

104 

8000 

395 

57 

8000 
8000 

63 
200 
400 
46s 

7000 
7500 
8000 
8000 

350 

8000 

169 

8000 

Total  Sub- 
vention to 
each  Line, 
due  on  Com- 
pletion. 


-2gb,5oo 
1 ,000,000 

832,000 
5, 280,000 

736,000 
1,672,000 
5,896,000 

832,000 

4,152,000 
1,056,000 

840,000 

756,000 

3,584,000 

832,000 

3,160,000 
456,000 


1,500,000 
3,200,000 
3,720,000 

2,800,000 

1,352,000 


'  S.  is  for  Standard  gauge,  1.435  metres  in  width  ;  N.  for  Narrow  gauge,  0.914  metre  in  width. 
^  Total  cost  in  dollars. 


420 


TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 


Name  of  Railroad. 


24  Port  of   Ahata  to  Culia- 

can  and  Durango.. 

25  Anton   Lizardo   to   Hua- 

tulco  and  Puerto  Angel 

26  Jalapa    to    San    Andres 

Chalchicomula 

27  San  Agustin  to  Huehue- 

toca 

28  Mexican    Central    Rail- 

way Company 

29  Mexican  National  Con- 

struction Co 

30  San    Martin  to  Railroad 

of  Hidalgo  &  Tlascala 

31  Puebla  to  San  Marcos 

32  Merida   to   Kalkini   and 

Celestum 

33  Guaymas  to  the  Northern 

Frontier  (Sonora  Road) 

34  Patzcuaro  to  the   Pacific 

35  Toliica   to  Mineral  Dis- 

trict of  Ixtapa  del  Oro. 

36  Connection  between  Te- 

pexpan  and  Irolo   

37  Coal-fields  of     the    Rio 

Yaqui  al  Morrito  

38  Merida  to  Valladolid 

39  Jalapa  to  Vera  Cruz  

40  Salto     to    Maravatio  by 

Tepeji  and  Jilotepec  .. 

41  S.    Luis  Potosi   to  the 

Central  in  Aguascali- 
entes   

42  ConiDaiiia  (Station)  and 

Villa  of  Tlalmanalco 

43  Mexican  Southern 3... 

44  Oriental^ 

45  International  

46  Pacific  Coast  

47  Topolovampo  Pacific... 


Date  of 
Concession. 


Aug.  16, 

"         25) 

Sept.    6, 
"      7i 


iSSo 
1880 
18S0 
1880 
18S0 


i8So 
1880 


14, 

"      IS. 

Nov.  27, 

"     27, 

Dec.    15, 

"      15, 

Jan.    10, 

"      "9. 
Feb.    2, 

"        3, 
Sept.    9, 

June, 

May    23 


18S0 
1S80 


iSSo 
1S80 


18S0 
1S80 


1881 

1S80 

1 881 


To  what  Parties 
granted. 


Gov't  of  Sinaloa. 
"    Oaxaca 


"     Puebla  &  Vera 

Cruz 

"    Hidalgo 

Limited    Company  1 

Co.  represented  by  ( 

Sullivan  &  Palmer  ( 

Gov't  of  Tlascala..... 

"    Puebla 


"     Yucatan  

Limited  Company  2.. 
Gov't  of  Michoacan. 


Jose  Maria  Amat 

Gov't  of  Morelos... 

Robert  R.  Symon., 
Francisco  Canton .. 
Ramon  Zangroniz., 


Pedro  del  Valle 

f  Government  of  S. 
\  Luis  &  Aguascali- 
(entes 


Gov' t  of  Mexico 

Matias  Romero 
J.Gould&F.deGresse 
Internat.  Const.  Co. 

J.  B.  Frisbie  

De  Prida&  Pombo.  . 


.s  s 

c  0 

s 

.2  g 
c  t.  3 

440 

8000 

45^ 

8000 

80 

8000 

5° 

8000 

2435 

9500 

915 

7000 

J043 
65 

6500 
8000 

5' 

8000 

142 

6000 

457 
342 

7000 
8000 

None 

6500 

None 

160 

6000 

114 

8000 

8000 

'5° 

8000 

6000 

6000 

None 

5000 

Total  Sub- 
vention to 
each  Line, 

due  on 
Completion. 


3,520,000 
3,600,000 


640,000 
400,000 

23,132,500 

640,500 

6,779,500 

520,000 

408,000 

852,000 

3,199,000 
2,736,000 


960,000 
912,000 


1,200,000 


The  Mexican  railroads,  completed  and  in  process  of  construc- 
tion, or  projected  as  outlined  on  the  general  map,  are :  — 

1.  The  Sonora  Railroad,  from  Benson  in  Arizona  to  Guay- 
mas on  the  Gulf  of  California,  352  miles  in  length.  Road  com- 
pleted. Connects  (via  short  link  over  the  Southern  Pacific) 
with  the  great  Atchison,  Topeka,  and  Santa  Fe  system. 

2.  The  Mexican  Central,  the  main  line,  about  1,215  miles  in 
length,  from  El  Paso,  on  the  Rio  Grande,  to  the  city  of  Mexico, 
with  branch  lines  to  Tampico,  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,'  and  San 
Bias,  on  the  Pacific. 

*  Represented  by  S.  Camacho  and  R.  Guzman. 

^  Represented  by  S.  Camacho  and  D.  Fei^gusson. 

*  United  under  one  management. 


THE   MEXICAN  RAILWAY  MOVEMENT.  421 

3.  International,  extension  of  the  Southern  Pacific  and  "  Sun- 
set Route"  system  (from  San  Francisco  to  New  Orleans)  from 
Eagle  Pass,  on  the  Rio  Grande,  to  the  Pacific,  probably,  tap- 
ping the  Central  at  or  near  Durango,  receiving  much  valuable 
through  traffic  from  the  south,  and  sending  a  direct  line  to  San 
Luis  Potosi. 

4.  Mexican  National,  between  Laredo,  on  the  Rio  Grande 
(Texas),  and  Mexico  City,  with  line  also  from  latter  point  to 
the  Pacific  at  Manzanillo ;  narrow  gauge ;  about  2,000  miles, 
including  all  concessions. 

5.  Mexican  Oriental,  an  extension  of  the  vast  and  compre- 
hensive Missouri  Pacific  system  southward  from  St.  Louis. 
Shortest  and  most  direct  route  (when  completed)  to  the  capital, 
where,  or  at  Puebla,  it  is  to  connect  with  the  Mexican  South- 
ern (Grant  road)  and  extend  to  the  isthmus  of  Tehuantepec. 
Total  length,  about  1,400  miles. 

6.  Mexican  Railway,  from  Vera  Cruz  to  city  of  Mexico ; 
length,  with  branches,  about  300  miles.  Finished  in  1873.  The 
pioneer  road  of  Mexico. 

7.  Mexican  Southern  (projected)  from  the  port  of  Anton 
Lizardo,  south  of  Vera  Cruz,  to  city  of  Oaxaca  and  to  Tehuan- 
tepec, with  connections  with  Puebla  and  city  of  Mexico ;  total 
length  (proposed),  about  500  miles;  consolidated  with  the 
Oriental, 

8.  Interoceanic,  a  proposed  narrow-gauge,  partly  built,  be- 
tween Vera  Cruz  and  Acapulco,  of  which  the  Morelos  road 
is  the  western  portion. 

9.  Tehuantepec,  crossing  the  isthmus  at  the  narrowest  part, 
a  little  over  a  hundred  miles ;  formerly  granted  to  an  American 
company,  but  retroceded  to  the  Mexican  government. 

10.  Yucatan  railways :  from  Progreso  (port)  to  Merida,  26 
miles  long,  broad  gauge,  steel  rails,  all  equipped  ;  from  Merida  to 
Peto  (building),  narrow  gauge  ;  Calkini  and  Campeche  (started) ; 
and  the  "  Eastern  Railway,"  from  Merida  to  Valladolid,  a  much- 
needed  road. 

First  in  point  of  historic  importance  is  the  line  known  as  the 


422  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

Mexican  Railway.^  This  is  the  representative  road,  having  been 
begun  before  the  rcpubHc  was  well  prepared  for  the  iron  horse, 
and  having  struggled  through  sixteen  years  of  revolutions  and 
civil  strife.  Commenced  in  1857,  it  was  not  finished  till  1873, 
and  cost  —  owing  to  the  engineering  difficulties  encountered  and 
the  disturbed  state  of  the  country  —  an  immense  sum,  its  present 
liabilities  amounting  (including  stock)  to  over  $39,000,000.  This 
railway  has  had,  says  a  writer  on  Mexico,  a  continuous  history 
of  vicissitude,  —  enough  to  crush  out  any  ordinary  enterprise. 
Its  construction  was  ruinously  delayed  and  frequently  suspended, 
and  its  expenditures  have  been  extravagant,  probably  beyond  all 
precedent. 

As  it  is  owned  entirely  in  England,  its  success  does  not 
directly  affect  Americans.  Still,  as  it  is  often  quoted  by 
American  speculators  as  an  instance  of  successful  Mexican 
railway  enterprise,  it  would  be  well  to  inquire  what  has  con- 
tributed to  make  it  profitable.  Its  cost  was  greatly  in  excess 
of  what  it  should  have  been,  —  a  loss  partially  balanced  by 
the  monopoly  it  has  had,  and  still  keeps,  of  the  transportation  of 
railway  material  from  coast  to  capital.  It  should  be  borne  in 
mind  that  it  is  now  built,  equipped,  complete,  and  in  the  hands 
of  sagacious  managers,  who  honestly  administer  its  earnings. 
These  were,  for  the  year  1873,  $2,117,553,  and  the  net  profits, 
$826,990;  for  1879  (material  for  other  roads  now  coming  into 
the  country),  $3,257,235  ;  net  profits,  $1,795,713  ;  for  1880,  total 
receipts,  $3,709,910;  profits,  $2,147,589 ;  for  1881,  $4,831,215  ; 
net  profits,  $2,758,729.  These  estimates,  compiled  from  various 
sources,  will  indicate  to  the  reader  the  growth  and  ultimate 
consequence  of  this  railroad. 

To  complete  the  picture,  the  following  comparison  is  given, 
elicited  from  the  eminent  Mexican,  Senor  Romero,  by  the 
adverse  criticisms  of  a  writer  in  a  popular  magazine:  "  As  a  test 
of  the  capabilities  of  this  road,  let  us  make  a  comparison  between 
the  earnings  of  the  Vera  Cruz  Railroad  and  roads  similarly  sit- 
uated in  the  United  States.  Probably  the  two  lines  combining 
more  nearly  than  any  others  similar  conditions  are  the  Union 
1  For  description  of  this  route,  see  Chapter  XL,  "  From  Coast  to  Capital." 


THE   MEXICAN   RAILWAY  MOVEMENT.  423 

Pacific  and  the  Central  Pacific,  having  heavy  mountain  grades, 
long  stretches  of  high  table-lands  and  sea-coast  connections. 
An  examination  of  the  official  reports  show  that,  in  1880,  the 
gross  earnings  per  mile  of  these  three  roads  were  respectively 
as  follows:  Union  Pacific,  $11,304;  Central  Pacific,  $7,818; 
Vera  Cruz,  $12,662.  The  net  earnings  per  mile  were  as  fol- 
lows: Union  Pacific,  $6,168;  Central  Pacific,  $3,913;  Vera 
Cruz,  $7,330.  The  reports  for  1881  show  the  gross  earnings 
per  mile  to  be  as  follows:  Union  Pacific,  $12,516;  Central 
Pacific,  $8,758  ;  Vera  Cruz,  $16,489; — and  the  net  earnings  for 
the  same  year:  Union  Pacific,  $6,207;  Central  Pacific,  $3,593  ; 
Vera  Cruz,  $10,098.  It  will  thus  be  seen  that,  for  the  last  year, 
the  Vera  Cruz  road  made  a  net  earning  of  six  per  cent  upon  a 
capital  of  $168,000  per  mile.  A  very  liberal  estimate  would  not 
place  the  cost  of  construction  to-day  at  more  than  $50,000  per 
mile,  upon  which  the  present  net  earning  would  be  a  return  of 
about  twenty  per  cent.  If  we  accept  the  Vera  Cruz  road  as  an 
evidence  of  what  may  be  expected  in  the  working  of  the  railroads 
now  being  constructed  by  American  companies,  the  foregoing 
exhibit  is  certainly  not  calculated  to  discourage  American  in- 
vesters  in  those  enterprises." 

Apologists  for  the  road  do  not  fail  to  call  attention  to  the  fact, 
that  the  above  figures  represent  the  income  of  a  line,  including 
its  short  branch,  less  than  three  hundred  miles  in  length.  But 
it  should  be  remembered  that  they  are  the  earnings  of  a  road 
having  a  monopoly  of  all  traffic  between  the  largest  city  of 
Mexico  and  its  only  eastern  port,  and  with  three  fourths  of  this 
amount  derived  from  the  transportation  of  material  for  the  con- 
struction of  other  roads. 

Passing  through  the  richest  portion  of  the  republic  in  agri- 
cultural wealth,  —  through  every  climatic  zone,  in  its  toilsome 
march  up  from  the  coast  to  the  high  plateaux,  —  it  should  have 
developed  the  resources  of  the  country  vastly  more  than  it  has 
done,  for  everything  it  is  possible  to  raise  in  Mexico  can  be  pro- 
duced along  its  line.  It  is  safe  to  say,  that  for  at  least  five  years 
the  Mexican  Railroad  will  pay  enormous  dividends,  and  for  ten 
years  will  do  a  profitable  business,  after  which  the  competing 


424 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


lines  now  in  progress  will 
reduce  its  income  so  that 
it  will  do  no  more  than 
hold  its  own.  By  that 
time,  however,  it  will  have 
made  up  for  all  its  losses 
in  past  years,  and  will 
manage,  with  its  subsidy, 
to  keep  its  rolling  stock  in 
order,  its  road  in  repair, 
and  its  stockholders  in 
easy  circumstances. 

The  railway  backbone 
of  Mexico,  traversing  the 
dorsal  ridge  of  the  plateau 
from  the  city  of  Mexico 
to  the  Rio  Grande,  is  the 
Central,  running  north- 
wardly from  the  capital, 
with  branches  right  and 
left,  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico 
and  the  Pacific,  and  with 
feeders  out  to  all  impor- 
tant points. 

The  longest  of  any  Mex- 
ican line, —  direct,  1,215 
miles,  —  it  has  also  the 
largest  subsidy,  $9,500 
per  kilometre,  amounting 
to  about  $32,000,000.  It 
runs    through    a    country 

rich  in   mineral   and   agricultural   resources,   and   connects  the 

largest  centres  of  population  in  the  south,  although  it  crosses 

certain  areas  of  sterile  plains  in  the  north. 

The  company  was  incorporated  in   1880,  under  the  General 

Railroad  Laws  of  Massachusetts.     "The  capital  stock  is  fixed 


THE   MEXICAN    RAILWAY    MOVEMENT.  425 

at  $32,000  per  mile  ($20,000  per  kilometre),  according  to  the 
declaration  of  November  29,  1880;  and  the  mortgage  bonds 
and  obligations  shall  not  exceed  an  equal  sum  per  mile,  and 
these  quantities  shall  not  be  increased  without  the  previous  con- 
sent of  the  Federal  Executive  of  Mexico.  The  capital  stock 
is  divided  into  shares  of  the  par  value  of  $100  each,  transferable 
upon  the  books  of  the  company  under  such  regulations  as  the 
General  Board  of  Directors  may  prescribe."     (By-Laws,  Art.  I.) 

Its  obligations  were,  that  the  line  from  Mexico  to  Leon  should 
be  finished  by  December  31,  1882  (completed  in  advance  of 
time  specified) ;  that  to  the  Pacific,  within  five  years ;  to  Paso 
del  Norte,  within  eight  years  after  completion  of  road  from 
Mexico  to  Leon.  A  bond  of  $150,000  to  be  deposited  with  the 
government  in  the  city  of  Mexico. 

The  history  of  this  road,  in  connection  with  that  of  the  Mexi- 
can (Vera  Cruz)  and  that  of  the  National  (Palmer-Sullivan), 
well  illustrates  the  advance  of  the  railway  movement  in  Mex- 
ico, after  the  initiatory  attempt  had  so  signally  succeeded.  The 
following  statement  is  chiefly  taken  from  the  Report  of  the 
company,  but  has  been  verified  in  detail  by  the  author  of  this 
work.  This  road  was  commenced  in  June,  1880,  with  a  force 
of  three  hundred  men,  grading  northwardly  from  the  city  of 
Mexico.  The  railway  concession  provides  a  subsidy  of  about 
$15,200  per  kilometre,  "with  the  right  to  import  materials  for 
construction,  repair,  and  operation  for  fifteen  years,  and  exemp- 
tion from  all  taxation  for  fifty  years  after  the  completion  of  all 
the  lines,  and  authorizes  the  construction  and  operation  for 
ninety-nine  years  of  a  telegraph  line  and  of  a  standard-gauge 
railway  from  the  city  of  Mexico,  through  the  capitals  and  cen- 
tres of  population  of  the  interior  States,  to  Paso  del  Norte,  and 
from  any  point  on  that  line  through  Guadalajara  to  the  Pacific 
coast."  In  addition,  the  company  bought  the  Guanajuato  Rail- 
way, the  concessions  made  to  the  States  of  Chihuahua,  Aguas- 
calientes,  and  San  Luis  Potosi,  besides  obtaining  another  to  the 
port  of  Tampico.  "  The  subsidy  is  payable  in  certificates,  in 
which  merchants  are  compelled  to  pay  eight  per  cent  of  all 
duties  at  the  frontier  and  maritime  custom-houses." 


426  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

The  Mexican  Central  runs  through  the  centre  of  the  table  land, 
which  already  supports  a  population  of  nearly  four  million  in- 
habitants. The  following  is  a  list  of  the  cities  upon  the  line,  not 
including  those  of  less  than  eight  thousand  inhabitants,  with 
their  population,^  the  State  capitals  being  marked  with  stars. 

*Aguascalientes 35,ooo 

*Chihuahua 16,000 

*Durango 28,000 

*Guanajuato 63,000 

*Guadalajara 93>875 

*Mexico 260,000 

*Queretaro 48,000 

*San  Luis  Potosi 45,000 

*Zacatecas 64,000 

Paso  del  Norte 8,000 

San  Juan  del  Rio 11,000 

Tula 10,000 

Salamanca i9>45o 

Irapuato 21,311 

Lagos 20,000 

Celaya 30,000 

Silao 38,000 

Sayula 16,000 

Tepic 14,000 

Salvatierra 8,000 

Leon 82,000 

930,636 

In  round  numbers,  probably  a  million. 

The  feasibility  of  this  vast  project  has  already  been  demon- 
strated, in  the  almost  triumphal  advance  from  the  valley  of 
Mexico  to  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande.  Of  the  region  traversed 
Humboldt  says  :  "  So  regular  is  the  great  plateau  (formed  exclu- 
sively by  the  broad,  undulating,  flattened  crest  of  the  Mexican 
Andes),  and  so  gentle  are  the  slopes  where  depressions  occur, 
that  the  journey  from  Mexico  to  Santa  Fe,  New  Mexico  (about 
twelve  hundred  miles),  might  be  performed  in  a  four-wheeled 
vehicle The  two  extremities,  Mexico  City  and  Santa  F^, 

'   Verified  from  the  Aniiario  of  Mexico  for  1SS2. 


THE   MEXICAN   RAILWAY    MOVEMENT.  427 

are  respectively  7,462  and  7,047  feet  above  the  sea ;  but  the  ele- 
vation at  El  Paso  del  Norte  is  only  3,800  feet.  The  table  lands 
of  Chihuahua  are  from  4,000  to  5,000  feet." 

Exceedingly  rough  hill  and  mountain  work  presents  itself, 
first,  in  securing  egress  from  the  valley  of  Mexico  itself,  and 
again  in  the  States  of  Guanajuato,  Zacatecas,  and  Durango. 
Intervening  between  these  ridges  are  broad  valleys  and  immense 
plains,  which  offer  few  obstacles  to  the  railway  constructor  of 
the  present  day.  The  region,  throughout  the  entire  distance 
traversed  by  the  trunk  line,  is  the  healthiest  in  the  world ;  but 
the  coast  termini  of  its  Gulf  and  Pacific  branches  are  in  a  cli- 
mate  not  noted  for  its  salubrity. 

In  the  Statistics  of  the  Republic  of  Mexico^  for  1880,  Senor 
Barcena,  a  high  Mexican  authority,  thus  describes  the  route :  — 

"  On  leaving  the  city  of  Mexico,  the  road  runs  to  the  fertile 
valley  of  Tula,  in  which  cereals  are  cultivated  with  great  success, 
and  to  which  come  the  agricultural  productions  of  Ixmiquilpam, 
and  of  various  warm  regions  found  to  the  north  of  Mezquital, 
among  the  mountains  of  the  State  of  Hidalgo.  Here  are  also 
found  various  sorts  of  building  and  ornamental  woods.  On  the 
road's  advancing  toward  Queretaro  it  encounters  the  produc- 
tions of  the  valleys  of  Huichipam,  San  Juan  del  Rio,  etc.,  where 
are  cultivated,  on  a  very  large  scale,  the  grains  which  now  come 
to  the  market  of  Mexico  City.  From  Queretaro  the  road  enters 
the  Bajio,  an  extensive  and  rich  region,  where  every  year  are 
raised  enormous  crops  of  cereals.  In  these  regions  are  raised 
many  irrigation  crops,  since  there  is  an  ample  supply  of  water 
in  the  dry  season,  coming  from  the  tanks  on  the  plantations. 
Besides,  subterranean  water  is  found  at  little  depth,  which  facili- 
tates irrigation,  and  to  this  are  due  the  vegetable  gardens  and 
the  orchards  of  Leon  and  Salamanca. 

"  From  Leon  the  road  will  pass  on  to  Lagos,  where  will  be 
found  an  abundance  of  wheat  and  other  grains,  coming  from  the 
valley  of  Lagos  itself,  and  from  those  of  Arandes,  Atotonilco, 
Tecuan,  etc.  In  following  the  general  route,  the  road  touches 
the   important  city  of  Lagos,  and  afterward   San  Juan,  Jalos, 

1  Estadistica  de  la  Republica  Mexkami,  Tomo  II.  pp.  442  et  seq. 


428 


TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 


Tepatitlan,  and  Zapotlanejo,  important  towns,  with  good  and 
varied  agricultural  productions.  The  connection  with  San  Juan 
dc   los   Lagos    will    be    very   favorable   to   the    railroad    at    the 

period  of  the  fair  in  that 
city,  which  is  attended 
by  the  traders  of  near 
and  distant  districts. 

"  The    advantages 
which    will    result   from 
the  railway  reaching  the 
city  of  Guadalajara  need 
no  argument,  since  it  is 
the  second   city  of  the 
republic,  —  important  by 
reason  of  its  population 
^        of    more     than     eighty 
i        thousand  souls,  its  mer- 
^        cantile  and  industrial  re- 
sources, and,  still  more, 
^        by  reason  of  its  position 
S        in  regard  to  the  Pacific 
ports. 

"  The  concession  gives 
the  company  liberty  to 
select  the  terminus  of 
the  line,  and  thus  it 
has  an  ample  contour 
of  coast  to  choose  from. 
By  selecting  the  port  of 
San  Bias  for  its  Pacific 
terminus,  the  Hne  will 
start  westward  from  Gua- 
dalajara, profiting  from 
the  grains,  sugars,  cof- 
fee, brandy  and  mescal  wine,  etc.,  which  are  produced  in  its 
vicinity,  as  well  as  in  the  rich  valley  lands  of  Ameca,  Ahua- 
luco,    Etzatlan,   Tequila,    and   Magdalena.     The   road  will   pass 


THE   MEXICAN   RAILWAY   MOVEMENT.  429 

through  the  centre  of  a  belt  of  fifteen  leagues  in  average  breadth, 
bounded  by  the  Tololotlan  and  Ameca  rivers.  The  agricultural 
production  will  be  notably  increased  in  this  belt,  so  well  suited 
to  the  culture  of  coffee,  cotton,  cane,  and  rice,  and  the  rivers 
will  be  taken  advantage  of  for  the  establishment  of  mills  of  vari- 
ous kinds.  On  the  railway  reaching  Tepic,  it  will  strike  a  town 
of  considerable  commercial  importance,  dealing  in  rich  and 
abundant  agricultural,  mineral,  and  industrial  products 

"  We  will  now  notice  some  of  the  mining  centres  on  the 
line  of  the  road.  On  reaching  Tula  (on  the  main  line),  the 
railroad  can  there  receive  the  metals  and  ore  which  come  from 
Actopan,  Zimapan,  the  Cardinal,  Jacala,  and  Encarnacion,  as 
well  as  from  the  other  mining  districts  of  the  northern  region 
of  the  road.  We  have  taken  for  granted  that  the  mineral  pro- 
ducts of  Pachuca,  Real  del  Monte,  El  Chico,  etc.,  will  come  to 
the  city  of  Mexico,  which  will  be  the  centre  of  deposit  and  ex- 
port for  the  Mexican,  the  Central,  the  Construction  Company's 
(Palmer  and  Sullivan),  and  the  Southern  railways. 

"  At  San  Juan  del  Rio  the  Central  road  will  receive  a  great 
part  of  the  mineral  productions  of  the  Sierra  Gorda,  while  the 
mines  of  Las  Aguas,  El  Doctor,  Maconi,  Jalpam,  Rio  Blanco, 
and  others,  will  receive  a  powerful  impulse.  The  Las  Aguas 
mine  abounds  in  argentiferous  veins,  as  is  also  the  case  in  the 
celebrated  '  Doctor '  mine,  near  which  are  found  deposits  of 
mercury  and  of  anthracite  coal.  The  whole  of  this  region  is  an 
extensive  mineral  belt,  which  may  be  explored  with  the  best 
results.  To  these  productions  must  be  added  the  excellent  mar- 
bles of  Vizarron,  and  the  precious  opals  which  are  found  so 
plentifully  on  the  estate  of  Esperanza  and  in  Amealco,  at  short 
distances  from  the  line  of  the  railway. 

"  On  approaching  Guanajuato  the  road  enters  a  metalliferous 
region  of  great  importance,  which  is  being  actively  worked. 
From  Salamanca  will  be  exported  the  kaoline  and  the  white 
clays  of  that  region,  or  there  will  be  established  new  porcelain 
works,  whose  products  will  circulate  throughout  the  country, 
or  be  taken  abroad.  Leon  will  furnish  as  freight  its  valuable 
building  and   ornamental   stones,  which  are  interspersed  with 


430  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

yellow  jaspers,  presenting  an  appearance  very  similar  to  that  of 
wood.  At  Lagos  may  be  received  the  products  of  the  Comanja 
and  Sauceda  mines,  rich  belts  which  may  be  worked  on  the 
largest  scale.  The  product  of  the  iron  works  at  Comanja  is 
of  good  quality,  and  will  be  largely  shipped,  and  serve  in  the 
construction  of  railroads.  To  the  north  of  Lagos  is  encountered 
the  mercurial  region  of  Puesto,  and  there  are  also  some  deposits 
of  tin.  From  Guadalajara  toward  the  Pacific  are  mining  dis- 
tricts of  much  importance,  near  to  the  routes  likely  to  be  taken 
by  the  railway.  Following  the  general  direction  now  taken  by 
the  San  Bias  road  are,  at  a  short  distance  from  Guadalajara,  the 
mineral  districts  of  Ameca  and  Etzatlan.  Among  the  hills  of 
the  municipality  of  Ameca  exist  native  gold,  sulphurets  of  silver 
and  copper,  magnetic  oxides,  and  hematites  of  iron.  Etzatlan 
is  a  mineral  district  of  importance,  worked  with  more  or  less 
activity.  Following  the  road  toward  Magdalena  is  found,  at 
a  little  distance,  the  mine  of  Hostotipaquillo,  and  some  iso- 
lated metalliferous  deposits  which  have  not  been  sufficiently 
explored.  On  reaching  Tepic,  a  mineral  belt  of  great  value  is 
touched,  such  as  the  deposits  of  Acuitalpico,  La  Yesca,  etc.,  as 
well  as  those  which  have  not  been  explored,  and  which  must 
exist  in  abundance  in  the  Cordilleras  of  Alica. 

"  Let  us  look  now  at  the  route  the  road  must  take  to  go  to 
Paso  del  Norte.  According  to  the  concession,  it  will  leave 
Leon,  and  must  direct  itself  to  Lagos,  in  order  to  touch  a  town 
whose  importance  we  have  already  noted.  The  line  goes  north- 
ward through  a  productive  grain  belt,  crosses  the  plains  of 
Tecuan,  in  which  are  found  rich  country  estates,  whose  irri- 
gating facilities  may  be  increased  by  the  sinking  of  artesian 
wells,  and  arrives  at  the  city  of  Aguascalientes,  where  there  is 
a  population  of  thirty-five  thousand,  devoted  to  agriculture 
and  various  industries.  The  road  will  continue  on  toward 
Zacatecas,  crossing  the  valley  of  Aguascalientes.  On  these 
plains  are  cultivated  the  cereals,  and  in  the  western  region, 
which  is  mountainous,  are  raised  other  products,  and  there  are 
also  to  be  had  building  and  ornamental  woods.  From  Zacate- 
cas, famous  for  its  rich  mines,  the  road  goes  to  Durango,  a  city 


THE   MEXICAN  RAILWAY   MOVEMENT.  433 

which  it  is  proper  the  road  should  touch  at,  although  not  so 
stipulated  in  the  concession.  As  the  road  goes  northward  it 
will  traverse  a  rich  agricultural  region,  principally  in  the  State 
of  Durango,  where,  on  a  great  scale,  are  cultivated  cotton, 
sugar-cane,  and  the  cereals.  The  railroad  will  carry  life  and 
colonization  to  that  section,  which  sadly  lacks  labor  and  means 
of  communication.  The  same  may  be  said  of  the  plains  which 
the  road  crosses  until  reaching  Paso  del  Norte." 

The  foregoing  has  been  quoted  at  length,  not  only  as  accurately 
descriptive  of  the  country,  but  as  the  expression  of  a  progressive 
Mexican,  speaking  for  the  more  enlightened  of  his  brethren. 
Though  the  Central  nominally  began  work  in  June,  1880,  little 
progress  was  made  until  late  in  that  year;  but  by  August,  1882, 
over  four  hundred  miles  of  track  had  been  laid,  and  surveys  made 
for  a  large  portion  of  the  line.  By  obtaining  permission  to  enter 
Mexico  from  the  north,  the  management  was  enabled  to  push  its 
construction  trains  from  both  ends,  thus  saving  immense  cost  in 
freights,  and  long  and  vexatious  delays. 

On  August  2,  1882,  the  first  train  crossed  the  Border,  at  El 
Paso,  from  the  United  States  into  Mexico.  Progress  over  the 
desert  plains  was  rapid,  and  by  the  middle  of  September,  1882, 
the  road  was  completed  to  Chihuahua,  the  isolated  northern 
capital  of  the  great  State  of  the  same  name,  when  twenty-five 
thousand  people  assembled  at  the  celebration  of  this  event, 
including  some  two  thousand  from  the  United  States. 

From  the  city  of  Mexico  working  northward,  the  advance  has 
been  even  more  rapid,  owing  to  the  accumulation  of  material 
and  the  incentive  of  rich  regions  to  be  opened  up.  After  enter- 
ing Tula,  the  ancient  seat  of  Toltec  empire,  the  engineers  of  the 
Central  bent  every  energy  towards  gaining  the  populous  centres 
beyond.  Never  halting  in  their  triumphant  progress  northward, 
everywhere  hailed  with  joyous  acclamations,  they  successively 
reached  and  passed  Queretaro,  Celaya,  and  Silao,  reaching  at 
last,  in  November,  1882,  the  gate  of  Guanajuato,  the  capital  city 
of  a  great  mining  State.  This  city,  being  intrenched  among  al- 
most inaccessible  hills,  was  connected  with  the  trunk  line  by  a 
branch,  at  the  opening  of  which  it  was  estimated  that  at  least 

28 


434  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

eighty  thousand  people  gathered  to  witness  the  arrival  of  the 
train  from  Mexico,  with  its  freight  of  distinguished  passengers. 
The  festivities  on  this  occasion  were  kept  up  for  two  days,  and 
by  night  the  city  was  brilHantly  illuminated.  The  ist  of  Jan- 
uary, 1883,  found  the  work  advanced  beyond  the  expectations 
of  its  most  sanguine  friends,  and  the  entire  State  of  Guanajuato 
spanned  entirely  by  the  iron  road. 

The  year  1883  opened  with  over  six  hundred  miles  of  road 
completed  and  in  running  order;  viz.  from  El  Paso  southward 
to  Chihuahua,  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles,  graded  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  beyond ;  and  from  the  city  of 
Mexico  to  Lagos  northward,  about  three  hundred  miles,  and 
graded  one  hundred  miles  farther.  On  the  Tampico  branch, 
towards  San  Luis  Potosi,  about  one  hundred  miles  were  com- 
pleted, and  on  the  Pacific  branch,  easterly  from  San  Bias,  about 
twenty  miles.  January  i,  1884,  found  over  1,050  miles  of  com- 
pleted track,  and  but  160  miles  intervening  between  the  termini 
of  the  northern  and  southern  divisions. 

Next  in  sequence  to  be  considered  is  the  long  narrow-gauge 
line  known  as  the  Mexican  National,  with  a  total  length  of 
about  two  thousand  miles,  and  a  subsidy  of  $11,270  per  mile. 
It  first  runs  westerly  from  the  city  of  Mexico,  to  Manzanillo,  on 
the  Pacific,  passing  through  the  important  cities  of  Toluca  and 
Morelia.  Shortly  before  reaching  the  latter  large  city,  it  sends 
its  northern  trunk  up  towards  San  Luis  Potosi,  crossing  the  Cen- 
tral at  a  point  west  of  Oueretaro,  and  entering  the  United  States 
at  Laredo,  on  the  Rio  Grande. 

Connecting  directly  with  the  systems  of  Texas  and  the  other 
Southern  States,  the  National  forms  a  short  line  from  the  capital 
to  St.  Louis  and  New  York,  over  the  Gould  System  for  the  for- 
mer city,  and  over  the  great  Pennsylvania  Central  for  the  East. 
The  distance  from  Boston  to  the  city  of  Mexico  by  this  route  is 
about  three  thousand  miles. 

It  is  built  in  pursuance  of  a  decree  of  the  Mexican  Congress, 
and  known  as  the  "  Palmer-Sullivan  Concession,"  executed  in 
September,  1880,  for  the  construction  of  certain  roads  and  tele- 


THE   MEXICAN    RAILWAY    MOVEMENT. 


435 


graphs;  first,  from  Mexico  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  "  following  the 
line  that  may  prove  most  favorable  for  the  mutual  interests  of 
the  company  and  the  nation  " ;  second,  from  Mexico  to  the 
northern  frontier;  third,  from  Matamoras  to  Monterey;  fourth, 
from  Zacatecas  to  San  Luis  Potosi,  and  also  to  Lagos.  Work 
was  begun  in  September,  1880,  and  its  progress,  though  not  so 
rapid  as  that  of  the  Central,  has  been  marked.  The  total  subsi- 
dies accruing  from  the  various  concessions  will  aggregate  over 
$20,000,000. 

The  original  concessions  to  this  company  were  hampered  by  a 
great  many  conditions,  the  fulfilment  of  which  created  unneces- 
sary expenses,  and  delayed  the  progress  of  the  road.  But  early 
in  1883  the  Mexican  government  combined  all  these  conflicting 
concessions  into  one,  and  allowing  a  full  limit  of  ten  years, 
instead  of  eight  as  at  first,  for  the  completion  of  the  entire 
system.  It  also  increased  the  subsidy  to  an  even  $7,000  per 
kilometre,  or  $11,270  per  mile,  which  is  to  be  paid  by  six 
per  cent  of  the  customs  duties  received  in  all  parts  of  the 
republic.  The  larger  or  more  important  centres  reached  by 
this  road,  with  their  populations,  are:  — 

Monterey  ....          42,000 

Saltillo 17,000 

San  Luis  Potosi 45,000 

Maravatio 12,000 

Acambaro 17,000 

Toluca 12,000 

Mexico 260,000 

Morelia 25,000 

Zamora 14,000 

Zapotlan 20,000 

Manzanillo      .          5,000 

Colima 31,000 

Guadalajara 93,000 

The  manager  of  this  road.  General  Palmer,  was  one  of  the 
first  to  study  the  problem  of  railway  connection  between  Mex- 
ico and  the  United  States.     The  difficulties  in  the  way  of  his 


436  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

undertaking  at  first  seemed  insuperable,  and  they  by  no  means 
diminished  as  the  work  progressed.  The  road  was  many  months 
in  penetrating  the  mountains  between  the  city  of  Mexico  and 
Toluca,  and  endured  a  great  deal  of  ill-deserved  abuse  because  it 
persisted  so  patiently  in  overcoming  the  most  difficult  obstacles 
at  the  outset.  Its  system  of  working  in  sections,  at  various  iso- 
lated portions  of  the  route,  though  at  first  discouraging,  eventu- 
ally proved  the  most  rapid  and  satisfactory,  especially  as  labor 
could  be  commanded  that  otherwise  might  not  have  been  avail- 
able. The  road  has  long  since  passed  the  bounds  of  the  valley 
of  Mexico,  and  has  pursued  the  same  undeviating  march  of 
triumph  as  has  been  witnessed  in  the  advance  of  the  Central. 

To  illustrate  the  condition  of  the  road  during  the  first  year  of 
its  existence,  I  introduce  a  description  of  the  departure  from  the 
central  office  of  the  weekly  pay  train,  which  I  accompanied. 

First,  there  was  a  small  cart,  containing  $io,ooo  in  silver; 
this  was  loaded  and  placed  in  charge  of  a  guard  while  the 
mules  were  laden.  There  were  seven  mules.  Upon  the  back 
of  each  one  was  placed  a  coarse  bag  containing  $2,000  in 
silver.  This  bag  was  about  two  feet  long  and  one  wide,  and 
was  lashed  tightly  to  the  pack-saddle.  The  sum  of  $6,000  was 
despatched  to  a  point  farther  up  the  line  by  diligence.  In  all, 
$30,000  was  sent  out  from  the  office  to  be  distributed  before 
night.  As  the  cathedral  clock  struck  six,  the  great  doors  were 
thrown  open,  and  we  sallied  forth,  —  first  a  small  guard,  then  the 
mules,  then  the  cart,  then  ourselves.  As  we  reached  the  Ala- 
meda the  diligence  passed  us  at  speed,  with  its  escort  galloping 
behind;  and  here  we  were  joined  by  our  own  escort  of  rural 
guards  and  employees  of  the  company.  The  drivers  kept  the 
mules  on  the  gallop  all  the  way,  past  the  aqueduct  of  San  Cosme, 
to  Tacuba,  the  cart  with  its  silver  burden  betraying  by  its  jingling 
the  nature  of  its  contents.  We  were  there  reduced  to  twenty- 
six  men,  including  eight  rural  guards  furnished  by  govern- 
ment, and  twelve  armed  employees  of  the  company.  Each  man 
of  the  escort  was  clad  in  leather  jacket  and  pantaloons,  and 
armed  with  carbine,  sabre,  and  revolver,  besides  carrying  coiled 
at  the  pommel  of  his  saddle  the  inevitable  lasso. 


THE   MEXICAN   RAILWAY   MOVEMENT. 


439 


The  guards  rode  ahead,  then  followed  the  seven  silver-laden 
mules  at  a  swift  trot,  which  they  kept  up  the  whole  distance, 
out  and  back,  of  fifty  miles.  A  few  miles  out,  after  passing 
through  great  fields  of  maguey,  over  the  muddiest  of  roads, 
between  ditches  white  with  the  bloom  of  sagittaria,  we  reached 
San  Estevan,  where  we  again  struck  the  track.  A  few  miles 
beyond  is  Rio  Hondo  (the  Deep  River).  Here  we  halted 
to  pay  away  a  few  hundred  dollars,  then  pursued  our  course 
again.  At  Rio  Hondo  is  a  large  cotton  and  woollen  mill,  a 
model  establishment,  very  large  and  complete.  Ascending  by 
a  steep  path  to  the  barren  table-land  above,  we  had  some  eight 
miles  of  uninteresting  road.  Above  Rio  Hondo,  which  is  twelve 
miles  from  Mexico,  is  the  spot  where  poor  Greenwood  was  mur- 
dered in  1880.  He  was  an  engineer  in  the  employ  of  the  com- 
pany, who  had  gone  out  only  a  little  in  advance  of  his  men,  when 
he  was  shot,  his  murderers  taking  his  horse,  watch,  and  money. 
Though  the  Mexican  government  pretends  to  visit  such  villains 
with  swift  retribution,  yet  these  murderers,  though  caught,  have 
never  suffered  the  penalty  of  their  horrible  crime.  A  cross 
marks  the  spot,  one  of  many  that  adorn  the  road,  over  this  long 
stretch  of  "bad  lands." 

On  this  road  we  were  joined  by  a  contractor,  who  soon  left  us, 
taking  two.  mules  with  their  loads  of  silver.  The  road-bed  is 
out  of  sight  from  the  plateau,  as  it  follows  the  course  of  the  Rio 
Hondo  through  deep  cuts.  Owing  to  the  many  cuts  and  bridges, 
work  here  is  extremely  difficult;  there  are  twenty-six  bridges 
in  this  section  of  three  miles,  and  sixty  between  Mexico  and 
Toluca.  At  a  dismal  village  called  San  Bartolome,  the  laborers 
gathered  about  us,  and  one  of  the  bags  of  silver  was  again 
opened,  and  a  few  hundred  dollars  paid  out.  Then  we  were  in 
our  saddles  and  off  again. 

Mr.  Pritchard,  the  superintendent,  had  received  intelligence 
that  a  party  of  bandits  intended  attacking  the  train  somewhere 
along  the  route,  and  had  with  great  difficulty  secured  the  escort 
of  rural  guards  from  government.  As  it  was,  owing  probably 
to  our  strong  escort,  we  were  not  molested ;  but  only  the  next 
day,  a  party  of  five,  three  on  horses  and  two  afoot,  attacked  and 


440  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

robbed  two  engineers  just  abov^e  this  point.  This  proves  the 
accuracy  of  our  information,  and  shows  how  uncertain  is  travel 
as  yet  in  this  region.  San  Franciscito,  a  small  town  twenty- 
five  miles  from  Mexico,  was  our  destination,  and  after  dinner, 
with  some  engineers  living  in  the  company's  house,  we  pro- 
ceeded to  pay  the  men.  There  were  about  a  thousand  of 
them,  ranged  in  long  rows  in  the  streets,  a  motley  crowd,  clad 
only  in  cotton  shirts  and  pantaloons,  with  a  sarape  added,  or  a 
cape  of  palm  leaves.  This  cloak,  called  capote  de  palma,  is 
much  worn  by  the  shepherds ;  it  makes  the  wearer  look  like  the 
roof  of  a  thatched  hut;  but  it  turns  the  rain,  and  is  cheap. 
The  silver  was  counted  out  in  piles  upon  a  table,  and  each  man 
paid  as  his  name  was  called  and  checked  upon  a  duplicate  list. 
They  were  not  allowed  inside  the  room,  of  course,  but  took 
their  money  through  a  small  aperture  in  the  window,  it  being 
thrown  into  their  hats,  each  man  departing  with  a  "  Gracias, 
senor."  It  took  three  hours  to  pay  away  about  four  thousand 
dollars,  during  which  time  the  rain  was  falling  in  torrents.  At 
four  o'clock  we  mounted  for  our  return  trip  of  twenty-five  miles, 
every  man  protected  by  his  sarape,  and  by  a  rubber  poncho 
that  fell  from  his  shoulders  and  covered  his  saddle  and  a  good 
portion  of  his  horse.  The  rain  had  swollen  the  rivers  and  the 
"  bad  lands  "  were  slippery  as  soap,  so  that  three  of  our  party 
suffered  severe  falls,  and  the  paymaster's  horse  fell  upon  him, 
inflicting  such  injuries  as  to  confine  him  to  his  bed  for  a  week 
afterward. 

The  section  between  Mexico  and  Toluca  is  probably  the 
roughest  on  the  whole  line,  being  through  the  mountain  wall 
around  the  valley  of  Anahuac,  while  the  region  is  almost  en- 
tirely worthless ;  but  beyond  is  one  of  the  most  fertile  valleys 
in  the  republic,  where  we  find  Toluca,  a  city  doing  much  busi- 
ness, celebrated  for  its  manufactures  and  its  great  trade  with 
Mexico,  and  with  a  population  of  ii,ooo. 

The  road  runs  through  the  lovely  valley  of  Lerma,  tapping 
the  mining  region  of  Tlalpujahua  and  El  Oro,  and  penetrating 
the  renowned  forest  belt,  which  contains  great  supplies  of  lum- 
ber, more  precious  to  Mexico  than  silver  or  gold. 


THE   MEXICAN    RAILWAY    MOVEMENT.  441 

Distant  134  miles  from  Mexico  City  is  the  town  of  Maravatio. 
with  about  13,000  inhabitants,  and  34  miles  farther  westward  is 
Acambaro,  the  southernmost  town  in  Guanajuato,  containing 
a  population  of  17,000.  It  is  the  point  at  which  the  trunk 
line  turns  sharply  to  the  north,  and  runs  directly  to  San  Luis 
Potosi  and  Texas.  It  is  distant  from  Manzanillo,  the  Pacific 
terminus  of  the  road,  443  miles,  and  60  miles  westward  is  the 
small,  though  beautiful,  city  of  Morelia.  This  westward  route  is 
not  devoid  of  attractions,  as  it  penetrates  the  only  lake  region 
of  Central  Mexico,  reaches  attractive  Morelia  and  the  towns  of 
Tzintzuntzan  and  Patzcuaro,  ancient  seats  of  aboriginal  civiliza- 
tion. Skirting  the  great  and  wonderful  Lake  Chapala,  the  line 
passes  through  Guadalajara,  capital  of  the  State  of  Jalisco,  and 
thence  runs  southward  to  Colima  and  Manzanillo. 

The  1st  of  January,  1883,  saw  the  completion  of  550  miles  of 
the  National  Railroad.     Monterey  was  reached  in  September, 

1882,  and  the  road  opened  to  traffic  from  Laredo  and  Corpus 
Christi,  Texas,  the  latter  the  Gulf  port  and  terminus,  400  miles 
distant  from  Saltillo,  capital  of  the  State  of  Coahuila,  which  was 
entered  in  September,  1883. 

From  Mexico  City  northward,  the  line  was  open  on  January  i, 

1883,  to  Acambaro,  distant  172  miles;  track-laying  was  being 
rapidly  pushed  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  the  completed  line  out 
from  the  capital,  the  El  Salto  branch,  long  since  finished,  in 
successful  operation.  The  year  1884  opens  with  875  miles  of 
finished  track  on  its  main  line  and  various  branches. 

All  difficulties  have  vanished  before  its  hosts  of  engineers 
and  peons,  and  town  after  town  has  welcomed  its  engines 
with  the  ringing  of  bells,  and  the  thanksgivings  of  people  at 
last  freed  forever  from  dependence  upon  the  burro,  mule,  and 
diligence. 

A  narrow-gauge  railroad,  crossing  the  country  from  Vera 
Cruz  to  Acapulco,  was  long  ago  projected,  by  way  of  Jalapa, 
Puebla,  Mexico  City,  and  Cuernavaca.  This  transcontinental 
line  is  continued  westward  from  the  capital  by  the  Morelos  Rail- 
road, one  of  the  very  few  enterprises  purely  Mexican  in  charac- 


442  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

ter  and  controlled  by  energetic  native  capitalists.  It  runs  at 
first  parallel  with  the  old  road  to  Puebla,  over  which  travel  has 
rolled  for  centuries,  and  which,  even  in  this  age  of  steam,  is 
crowded  with  the  mules  and  donkeys  of  the  freighters.  Two 
daily  trains  leave  the  gate  of  San  Lazaro  for  the  South,  com- 
posed of  first,  second,  and  third  class  cars,  the  fare  being  two 
cents  per  mile  for  the  former,  and  less  than  one  cent  for  the 
latter.  At  the  hacienda  of  Los  Reyes,  composed  of  a  few 
scattered  adobe  huts,  a  train  connects  for  the  ancient  city  of 
Tezcoco,  and   eventually  for  Puebla. 

The  scenery  for  the  most  part  is  dreary,  but  plains  waving 
with  grain,  like  those  of  Ameca  and  Ozumba,  and  the  great  vol- 
canoes always  in  sight,  especially  from  the  latter  place,  make 
the  route  one  of  varied  interest.  Beyond  the  Mexican  plateau, 
fifty  miles  from  the  capital,  the  road  descends  over  a  forbidding 
country,  known  as  the  mal  pais,  or  "bad  lands,"  fifty  miles  far- 
ther, to  the  town  of  Cuautla.  This  is  a  place  of  note,  situated 
in  tierra  caliente,  celebrated  for  its  great  sugar  plantations  and 
tropical  fruits. 

On  the  1 8th  of  June,  1881,  the  Morelos  road  was  formally 
opened  to  this  point  with  a  grand  banquet,  and  an  assembling 
here  of  nearly  all  the  notables  of  Mexico.  A  week  later  a  most 
terrible  accident  occurred  at  the  barranca  of  Malpais,  caused 
by  the  washing  away  of  the  foundations  of  a  bridge,  by  which 
two  hundred  persons,  principally  soldiers,  were  precipitated 
down  a  ravine,  and  the  cars,  loaded  with  lime  and  rum,  took 
fire,  enveloping  the  victims  in  flames.  Had  that  accident  hap- 
pened at  the  opening  of  the  road,  when  President  Gonzalez,  Diaz, 
Romero,  and  most  of  the  leading  men  of  Mexico  were  there,  the 
consequences  to  the  republic  would  have  been  most  disastrous. 
The  whole  work,  with  its  sharp  and  numerous  curves,  and  its  in- 
secure bridges,  seemed  to  justify  the  boast  of  the  native  popula- 
tion (before  the  accident),  that  the  engineer  was  a  Mexican,  and 
had  never  built  a  road  before.  The  disaster  proved  a  lesson  to 
the  American  engineers,  especially  those  who  came  first  in  the 
dry  season,  when  all  the  ravines  and  arroyos  are  bare,  and  who 
realized  that  they  must  reside  here  through  a  rainy  season  or 


THE   MEXICAN    RAILWAY    MOVEMENT.  443 

two  before  they  could  fully  understand  the  perils  of  a  road  from 
floods. 

The  Mexican  manner  of  railroad  building,  I  may  remark  in 
passing,  is  diametrically  opposed  to  the  American.  First,  you 
must  get  a  "  concession,"  —  permission  to  build.  Then  you 
seek  out  some  point  far  distant  from  any  existing  railroad,  and 


POPOCATAPETL  FROM   OZUMBA. 

transport  your  material  to  that  place.  To  begin  at  the  coast 
would  be  contrary  to  Mexican  tradition,  and  establish  a  dama- 
ging precedent.  By  beginning  at  the  farther  end  of  the  line,  you 
give  employment  to  a  great  many  carters  and  teamsters,  which 
is  but  simple  justice,  as  the  road  when  built  will  certainly  take 
away  their  freights.     Realizing  this,  these  aggrieved  people  make 


444  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

their  charges  accordingly.  This  way  of  constructing  a  road  will 
take  more  time  and  capital,  but  you  will  have  the  sympathies  of 
the  owners  of  mules  and  diligences,  and  the  satisfaction  of  having 
offended  nobody's  pet  theories  and  traditions.  The  road  will 
approach  completion  so  gradually  that  it  will  seem  as  though  it 
had  always  existed,  and  by  that  time  you  may  have  the  pleasure 
of  renewing  the  portion  first  built,  and  of  employing  the  descend- 
ants, even  to  the  third  generation,  of  your  original  workmen. 

It  was  in  this  manner  that  the  first  railroad  in  Yucatan  was 
built,  and  various  others,  and  was  originally  insisted  upon  by  the 
Mexican  government  in  regard  to  the  two  great  American  roads. 
In  making  the  road  from  Tampico  to  San  Luis  Potosi,  for  in- 
stance, material  and  rolling-stock  were  carted  into  the  interior 
over  tremendous  hills,  at  a  frightful  expense,  because  the  char- 
ter read  "  from  San  Luis  to  Tampico,"  instead  of  the  reverse. 

The  Mexicans  have  not  yet  recovered  from  their  surprise  at 
the  rapid  manner  in  which  the  great  American  work  goes  on. 
They  see  engineers,  some  young  and  full  of  theories,  others 
old  and  gray  with  service  in  Peru  and  Brazil,  taken  from  the 
steamers  and  transformed  in  a  week  into  hard-working  bands, 
that  fall  into  line  and  labor  for  the  roads  as  though  they  pos- 
sessed an  individual  interest  in  their  completion.  Each  engineer 
of  an  advance  party  is  furnished  with  a  horse,  a  rifle,  a  revolver, 
and  a  peon,  is  lodged  and  fed  at  a  hotel  if  in  town,  or  comfort- 
ably cared  for  if  in  camp. 

From  this  chapter  the  reader  may  gather  the  more  impor- 
tant details  of  the  vast  railway  movement  of  Mexico.  It  is 
estimated  that,  up  to  January,  1884,  over  $60,000,000  have  been 
expended  by  American  capitalists  alone.  The  question  natu- 
rally arises.  Will  they  ever  recover  this  vast  amount  of  capital, 
or  obtain  for  it  a  remunerative  rate  of  interest? 

That  is  a  question  which  the  future  alone  can  answer.  It  is 
the  writer's  opinion  that  more  roads  are  being  built  in  Mexico 
than  the  country  has  need  for,  if  it  goes  on  developing  for  the 
next  thousand  years.  Some  have  been  blindly  entered  upon, 
without  a  counting  of  cost,  or  fair  consideration  of  the  regions  to 
be  traversed.     Two  great  lines,  with  their  various  feeders  and 


THE   MEXICAN    RAILWAY    MOVEMENT, 


44S 


branches,  are  all-sufficient  for  Mexico  and  for  the  extension, 
southward  of  the  vast  systems  of  the  United  States.  The  suc- 
cess of  a  greater  number  I  consider  more  than  problematical, 
notwithstanding  the  promised  assistance  of  subsidies  and  the 
support  of  the  Mexican  government. 

It  is  true  that  these  subsidies,  if  paid,  will  return  to  them  a 
large  proportion  of  the  cost  of  construction ;  it  is  equally  true 
that  Mexican  commerce  —  upon  which  these  subventions  are 
dependent  —  must  increase  at  a  rate  wholly  unprecedented  to 
yield  the  required  revenue.  If  there  ever  was  an  excuse  for 
repeating  a  hackneyed  Mexican  phrase,  it  occurs  here ;  and  so 
I  say,  though  with  a  reservation,  Qiiien  sabe?  —  Who  knows? 

Yet  the  vast  and  comprehensive  railroad  system  of  Mexico 
was  not  the  child  of  chance,  but  was  planned  by  her  political 
leaders.  They  recognized  the  necessity  of  rapid  communication 
between  the  centre  of  political  power  and  distant  provinces,  both 
for  the  massing  of  troops  to  quell  rebellions  and  the  develop- 
ment of  latent  resources.  So  they  subsidized  and  encouraged 
certain  lines,  even  in  the  face  of  popular  opposition. 

With  the  Sonora  Railroad  crossing  the  extreme  northwestern 
province,  the  Central  taking  the  centre  of  the  great  plateau,  the 
Huntington-Pierce  combination  (the  "  Sunset  Route  ")  the  next 
tier  of  States,  the  National  the  next,  and  the  Oriental  the  east- 
ern border,  we  have  Old  Mexico  divided  longitudinally  into  as 
many  portions  as  would  seem  advisable.  Add  to  these  the  vari- 
ous feeders  that  span  her  from  Gulf  to  Pacific,  and  lastly  the 
Tehuantepec  line  that  crosses  her  narrowest  part,  and  we  shall 
see  that  our  Southern  sister  will  soon  be  covered  with  a  perfect 
network  of  iron  rails  and  telegraph  lines. 


XXIL 


A   RIDE   THROUGH   A   MINING   REGION. 

"  J\/TUCHO  polvo,"  said  I  to  the  driver  of  the   dihgence  that 

-^  '^     took  me  from  the  station  on  the  Mexican  Raihvay  towards 

Pachuca.     Mticho polvo^Wi&xdWy  translated,  means  "much  dust." 

"  Si,  senor,"  repHed  Jehu. 

Our  eight  mules  were  in  the  best  of  spirits,  and  succeeded  in 
raising  such  a  cloud  of  dust  as  obscured  the  landscape  for  miles. 
I  wished  to  remark  upon  the  beauty  of  the  scenery,  but  not 
recalling  the  proper  Spanish  words,  and  happy  to  find  that  the 
driver  understood  my  comment,  I  said  again,  *'  Mucho  polvo." 

"  Si,  senary 

In  ten  minutes,  there  rested  upon  the  face  of  nature  such  a 
pall  of  dust  as  it  would  take  a  deluge  to  remove  again,  but 
through  it  all  our  mules  galloped  gayly,  flinging  up  fresh  clouds 
at  every  leap,  until  it  was  so  thick  around  me,  that,  had  we 
been  standing  still,  I  am  certain  we  should  have  been  buried  as 
in  a  snow-drift.  As  the  driver  could  not  select  his  route,  those 
mules  gave  rein  to  their  desire  to  torture  us  as  much  as  possible, 
and  if  there  existed  in  that  road  a  rock  or  rut  that  we  did  not 
go  over  or  into,  it  was  only  because  those  animals  could  not  find 
it.  By  way  of  varying  the  monotony  of  things  I  said  to  the 
driver,  in  a  voice  husky  with  dust,  "  Moo-moo-cho  pol-pol-vo." 

The  motion  of  the  coach  prevented  me  from  giving,  per- 
haps, the  correct  Castilian  pronunciation,  as  one  minute  I  was 
clinging  to  the  hand-rail  at  his  side,  the  next  over  amongst  the 
baggage  in  the  rear,  and  again  down  somewhere  in  the  region 
of  the  mules  ;  but  he  understood  me  perfectly,  —  he  was  a  very 
intelligent  Mexican,  —  and  replied  promptly,  "  Si,  senor." 


A   RIDE   THROUGH   A   MINING   REGION.  447 

In  about  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes  after  leaving  the  sta- 
tion the  dihgence  suddenly  pulled  up  at  Xochihuacan.  If  the 
reason  why  we  halted  here  is  not  evident  at  a  glance,  I  may 
explain  that  we  needed  time  to  pronounce  this  Aztec  name, 
not  being  able  to  get  around  it  in  our  then  exhausted  condi- 
tion. We  hailed  it  with  light  hearts,  but  with  heavy  stomachs ; 
for  we  had  inside  us  an  amount  of  disintegrated  Mexican  earth 
that  would  have  entitled  us  to  honorable  distinction  among  the 
clay-eaters  of  the  Orinoco.  We  took  breakfast  that  morning  at 
a  thriving  settlement  of  one  house  and  a  mule-shed,  known  as 
Tepa,  where  we  were  first  introduced  to  the  pulque  of  that 
region.  As  it  was  made  on  an  adjacent  hacienda,  and  was  the 
best  in  the  county,  we  essayed  a  drink,  clasped  our  noses, 
breathed  a  prayer  to  the  Virgin  of  the  Remedios,  —  the  patron 
saint  of  pulque-drinkers,  —  and  gulped  it  down.  Having  thus 
washed  the  dust  from  our  throats  into  our  stomachs,  we  started 
on  again. 

Northeast  of  the  city  of  Mexico  is  a  cluster  of  the  richest 
States  in  the  republic,  consisting  of  Guanajuato,  Queretaro,  and 
Hidalgo,  the  mining  centre  of  the  last  being  Pachuca.  It  lies  on 
a  plain  about  sixty  miles  from  Mexico  City, —  a  plain  covered 
with  maguey  plants  and  environed  by  the  same  purple  hills  that 
surround  the  capital,  over  which  peers  the  wonderful  Montana 
de  los  Organos,  or  Organ  Mountain,  of  Actopan.  Enclosed 
within  a  semicircle  of  bare  brown  hills,  by  which  it  is  hidden 
till  nearly  approached,  Pachuca  fills  a  little  valley  with  low- 
walled  houses  of  stone.  It  has  a  population  of  about  twenty- 
five  thousand,  the  great  bulk  of  which  are  Indian  miners.  It  is, 
with  Tasco,  the  oldest  mining  district  in  Mexico,  and  it  is  sup- 
posed that  the  first  Spanish  settlement  was  founded  near  here. 
Its  mines  have  been  worked  for  over  three  hundred  and  fifty 
years,  and  here  in  this  very  town  was  discovered  the  process 
of  amalgamation,  in  use  to-day,  by  which  all  the  ores  dug  from 
the  mountain  are  made  to  yield  up  the  silver  they  contain. 
Yes,  more,  the  very  hacienda  is  still  at  work,  and  profitably,  in 
which,  in  1557,  Senor  Medina  made  that  discovery  so  valuable 
to  Mexico.     Senor    Medina  has  passed    away,  it  is  presumed. 


448  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

but  his  memory  still  lives,  and  it  deserves  to  be  perpetuated  by 
a  monument  of  silver  at  least  a  hundred  feet  high. 

Besides  the  native  population  there  is  an  English  colony,  com- 
prising about  three  hundred  and  fifty  men,  women,  and  children, 
from  the  mining  district  of  Cornwall.  The  first  Cornish  miners 
came  here  about  sixty  years  ago,  introducing  English  ma- 
chinery and  modes  of  working.  More  than  half  a  century  ago, 
England  was  afflicted  with  an  "  Anglo-Spanish  "  mining  fever, 
which  did  not  abate  till  more  than  $50,000,000  of  English  capi- 
tal had  been  expended  in  Mexico.  During  the  prevalence  of 
that  fever  many  of  these  miners  came  out  here.  Some  of  the 
original  number  are  still  living,  and  all  agree  as  to  the  health- 
fulness  of  the  climate  of  this  region  as  a  place  of  residence  for 
English  people.  Though  some  of  them  had  acquired  wealth, 
and  some  had  retired  to  Old  England  with  enough  and  to  spare, 
the  majority  had  earned  little  more  than  a  living,  until  they 
"  struck  it  rich  "  in  the  Santa  Gertrudis  mine,  which  is  now  "  in 
bonanza."  It  had  been  successively  worked  and  abandoned 
years  and  years  ago,  and  was  finally  "  denounced  " —  or  taken 
to  work  —  by  a  Cornishman.  Forming  a  small  company,  in 
1877,  he  commenced  active  work;  after  it  was  proved  that 
the  mine  was  paying,  he  sold  his  share,  nine  twenty- fifths,  for 
$15,000.  Since  then,  one  twenty-fifth  has  sold  for  $80,000, 
the  present  price  being  $85,000  or  $90,000  per  barra,  or  share. 
The  mine  has  been  "  in  bonanza "  now  for  five  years,  and  is 
yielding  about  3,000  cargas  of  300  pounds  each  of  metal 
weekly,  and  giving  a  clear  profit  of  $1,000  per  day.  From 
June,  1877,  to  March,  1881,  the  mine  produced  $2,300,000,  and 
declared  thirty-two  dividends  of  $20,000  each,  —  $640,000.  In 
June,  1877,  there  was  but  one  shaft  of  sixty  varas,  —  a  vara  is 
little  less  than  a  yard ;  now,  the  deepest  shaft  is  two  hundred 
varas;  there  are  powerful  pumping  and  hoisting  engines,  many 
large  buildings,  and  all  the  appurtenances  of  a  mine  in  this 
section,  all  paid  for.  This  mine,  which  is  located  less  than 
two  miles  from  the  centre  of  Pachuca,  is  owned  principally  by 
men  who  were  poor  at  the  time  they  commenced  to  work  it. 
There  are,  it  is  said,  two  distinct  lodes,  running  parallel,  and  at 


A   RIDE   THROUGH   A   MINING   REGION. 


449 


less  than  fifty  yards  from  each  other.  At  first  the  vein  worked 
was  only  a  vara  wide,  but,  as  they  went  down,  they  found  a 
cavern  filled  with  "  metallic  mush,"  twenty-four  feet  wide. 
They  were  at  first  compelled  to  timber  around  a  great  deal,  for 

29 


450  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

the  sake  of  economy,  taking  out  merely  enough  to  meet  current 
expenses.  What  remained  was  "  pure  black  sulphurets,  which 
exhumed  globules  of  native  silver  when  exposed  to  fire."  One 
can  trace  the  silver  lode  as  it  crops  out  above  the  surface,  and 
runs  diagonally  across  the  hills. 

The  gross  product  of  Santa  Gertrudis  in  the  first  four  years 
sums  up  $4,000,000,  although  yet  new,  and  more  than  $2,000,000 
has  been  divided  in  profits.  The  ores  of  this  district  vary  from 
$20  to  $300  per  ton,  with  frequent  deposits  up  to  $500;  $60 
per  ton  is  considered  sufficient  to  put  a  mine  in  bonanza. 

In  Pachuca  and  the  mining  districts  around  it  —  Real  del 
Monte  to  the  northeast.  El  Chico  to  the  north,  and  Santa  Rosa 
to  the  west  —  are  in  all  267  mines,  as  follows:  in  Pachuca,  154; 
Real  del  Monte,  "jQ;  El  Chico,  24;  and  in  Santa  Rosa,  13. 
The  prevailing  metal  is  sulphate  of  silver,  though  in  some 
mines  native  silver  is  found  mixed  with  the  ore.  The  ores 
are  "  docile,"  and  reduced  by  the  barrel  process,  smelting- 
pan,  amalgamation,  and  "patio"  process.  There  are  but  two 
States  that  equal  Hidalgo  in  yield  of  silver.  Most  of  the 
mines  are  operated  in  the  old  Mexican  fashion,  the  metal 
being  brought  up  in  bullock-skins,  by  means  of  long  ropes  of 
maguey  fibre  wound  about  a  large  drum,  worked  by  horses  or 
mules. 

The  accounts  of  the  yields  of  some  of  these  mines  border 
upon  the  fabulous,  yet  it  is  more  likely  that  they  have  been 
under  rather  than  over  estimated.  Under  the  old  Spanish  laws, 
one  fifth  went  to  the  king,  and  under  the  present  laws  one 
twenty-fifth  belongs  to  the  government,  and  by  examining  the 
books  in  which  these  accounts  are  kept,  one  may  quickly  ascer- 
tain the  production  of  any  mine.  In  the  archives  of  Mexico 
you  may  find  the  musty  volumes  containing  these  records,  some 
of  them  over  three  hundred  years  old.  By  them  it  appears  that 
one  hundred  million  dollars  has  been  taken  from  a  single  mine, 
the  Rosario,  in  thirty  years,  and  the  books  show  that  there  has 
been  paid  $500,000  per  share  in  dividends. 

On  our  way  through  the  street  leading  to  the  gorge  at  the 
head  of  the  valley  where  this  mine  is   located,  we  passed  the 


A   RIDE   THROUGH   A   MINING   REGION.  451 

headquarters  of  the  Real  del  Monte  company,  which  works 
the  greatest  number  of  mines  in  this  district.  Its  building 
is  a  perfect  fortress,  built,  like  all  Mexican  houses  of  the  bet- 
ter class,  with  stone  walls,  square,  and  surrounding  an  open 
court  in  the  centre,  into  which  all  the  rooms  look ;  but  flanked 
at  every  corner  with  towers,  loopholed  and  slit  for  musketry. 
When  I  first  saw  this  structure  I  did  not  understand  the  full 
significance  of  those  towers,  supposing  that  they  were  added 
for  ornament ;  but  I  subsequently  learned  that  they  were  made 
for  a  purpose,  and  that  many  a  man  has  been  shot  from  them. 
Bullet-holes  may  yet  be  seen  in  the  walls,  though  many  have 
been  eff"aced  by  mortar  and  paint.  It  is  only  eight  or  nine  years 
since  this  castle  withstood  the  attack  of  a  horde  of  bandits.  As 
related  by  an  eyewitness,  the  affair  was  something  like  this. 
There  was  a  large  quantity  of  silver  stored  in  the  vaults  of  the 
building;  for  all  the  treasure  of  the  various  mines  is  first  col- 
lected here,  and  then  sent,  in  steel  wagons,  well  guarded,  to  the 
mint  in  Mexico.  It  was,  I  think,  in  revolutionary  times,  and  the 
country  was  overrun  with  lawless  men,  who  collected  in  Pachuca 
in  great  numbers.  The  commander  of  the  little  army  main- 
tained by  this  great  company  had  two  hundred  picked  men. 
Leaving  a  small  guard  in  the  castle,  he  returned  to  Real  del 
Monte,  two  leagues  distant,  there  formed  and  collected  his 
forces,  and  then  marched  again  upon  Pachuca.  Soon  as  the 
guard  within  the  fort  saw  their  comrades  appear  upon  the  hill- 
tops, they  opened  fire  upon  the  rascals  outside,  while  the 
commandant  charged  through  the  narrow  streets,  with  great 
slaughter. 

The  few  windows  opening  on  the  street  are  defended  by  iron 
bars,  and  the  massive  doors  are  guarded  by  men  armed  with 
rifle  and  revolver.  Above  this  are  the  extensive  mills  and  works, 
called  Jiaciendas,  of  the  company,  and  the  apartado,  an  immense 
establishment,  in  which  the  silver  is  assayed  and  the  residue  of 
gold  extracted  after  the  silver  has  been  run  into  bricks.  Here 
everything  needful  is  made,  even  to  the  sulphuric  acid  used  in 
the  operation.  The  sulphur  comes  from  Sicily,  though  old 
Popocatapetl  has  a  vast  store  yet  in  his  vitals;    and  the  quick- 


452  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

silver  from  Austria,  though  there  are  mines  of  it  south  of  the 
capital. 

Entering  the  great  gate,  —  for  all  the  mines  and  works  are 
surrounded  by  high  stone  walls, — we  procured  candles  of  the 
keeper  at  the  mouth,  and  plunged  into  the  dark  tunnel  of  an 
"  adit."  There  was  a  track  over  which  the  cars  were  drawn 
which  carry  the  ore  out  from  the  shafts,  but  they  were  not  then 
running,  and  so  we  walked  the  whole  distance  of  five  hundred 
varas,  —  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  At  the  end  of  the  adit, 
in  an  uncanny  hole,  into  which  we  climbed  with  difficulty,  was 
a  large  steam-engine,  puffing  and  sizzling,  and  rendering  the 
place  so  hot  that  the  remark  was  made  that  the  engineer,  if 
he  went  below  when  he  died,  would  need  an  overcoat.  These 
hills  are  honeycombed  with  shafts  and  adits ;  some  of  them, 
connecting  with  those  of  other  mines,  lead  under  the  mountains 
a  league.  We  passed  over  two  shafts,  each  fifteen  hundred  feet 
deep,  from  which  the  miners  were  pouring,  like  flies  out  of  the 
bunghole  of  a  sugar  cask.  Probably  over  twelve  hundred  men 
are  employed  in  this  mine  alone.  They  get,  as  wages,  from  six 
to  ten  reales  per  day,  and  one  bag  of  ore  out  of  every  eight  they 
break.  The  ore  is  sent  up  in  small  coarse  bags,  each  one  with 
the  miner's  mark  on  it,  and  dumped  into  small  iron  cars  when  it 
reaches  the  adit,  and  drawn  out  by  mules. 

When  we  had  emerged  into  open  air,  the  manager  took  me  to 
the  office  and  gave  me  some  very  rich  specimens  of  ore,  some 
containing  native  silver,  and  these,  with  others  obtained  later, 
made  a  most  excellent  series  for  cabinet  and  laboratory  use. 
Most  of  them  were  obtained  from  the  men  as  they  came  out 
of  the  mine.  Each  gang  works  twelve  hours,  and  the  work 
goes  on  night  and  day,  without  cessation,  the  month  through. 
As  the  men  come  out  of  the  mine  and  pass  through  the  gate,  they 
are  searched  —  three  times  in  all  —  for  silver  ore  ;  yet  they  often 
manage  to  carry  away  a  great  deal  in  the  course  of  a  month, 
which  they  dispose  of  to  the  small  haciendas  in  town,  which 
"beneficiate"  on  their  own  account.  Their  methods  of  conceal- 
ment are  various  and  artful.  One  was  to  hollow  the  handles  of 
their  hammers,  which  they  were  permitted  to  carry  out  of  the 


A   RIDE   THROUGH   A   MINING   REGION. 


453 


mines  with  them,  and  fill  them  full  of  ore;  another,  to  pulverize 
the  ore  and  roll  it  up  in  cigarette  papers ;  another,  to  have  it  in 
little  bags,  so  arranged  with  strings  that  they  could  change  it 
from  side  to  side,  un- 
der their  loose  shirts, 
or  sarapes,  when  the 
keeper  was  passing 
his  hands  over  them. 
They  conceal  it  be- 
tween their  toes,  in 
their  ears,  and  in  the 
last  places  one  would 
think  of;  their  scanty 
clothing  offers  no  aid  to 
hiding.  In  the  Rosa- 
rio  is  an  old  shaft  four 
hundred  feet  in  length, 
leading  from  the  top  of 
a  hill  into  the  mine ;  it 
was  long  since  aban- 
doned, and  is  now  used 
as  a  chimney  for  one 
of  the  engines  in  the 
mines.  For  a  long  time 
great  quantities  of  ore 
were  missing.  The  paid 
agents  of  the  company 

reported  that  stealing  was  going  on,  but  could  not  tell  how.  At 
last  it  was  discovered  that  an  adit  had  been  driven  into  the  hill  to 
the  old  shaft,  and  up  this  dangerous  place  they  had  climbed  at 
night,  dragging  the  bags  of  ore  after  them.  An  exploring  party 
was  sent  in  and  found  a  dead  man  and  some  provisions,  the  man 
suffocated  by  the  smoke. 

"If  the  superintendent,"  says  a  certain  writer,  "should  roast 
the  parish  priest  in  front  of  the  oxidizing  furnace,  till  he  con- 
fessed all  he  knew  about  the  thefts  of  his  parishioners  from  the 
company,  he  would  tell  strange  stories  ;  —  how  Juan  Fernandez 


MEXICAN    MINERS. 


454  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

carried  off  sixpennyvvorth  of  silver  in  each  ear  every  day  for  a 
month  ;  and  how  Pedro  Alvarado  (the  Indian  names  have  almost 
disappeared  except  in  a  few  families,  and  Spanish  names  have 
been  substituted)  had  a  hammer  with  a  hollow  handle,  like  the 
stick  that  Sancho  Panza  delivered  his  famous  judgment  about, 
and  carried  away  silver  in  it  every  day  when  he  left  work ;  and 
how  Vasco  Nunez  stole  the  iron  key  from  the  gate  (which  it 
cost  two  dollars  to  replace),  walking  twenty  miles  and  losing  a 
day's  work  in  order  to  sell  it,  and  eventually  getting  but  two- 
pence for  it;  and  plenty  more  stories  of  the  same  kind." 

This  mine  well  illustrates  the  uncertainty  attending  all  mining 
operations.  Before  the  present  company  got  control  of  it,  two 
others  had  it,  the  last  of  which  stopped  within  forty  feet  of  the 
lode  that  has  yielded  millions.  It  was  the  making  of  Pachuca, 
the  cause  of  its  being  created  capital  of  the  State,  and  floated 
the  company  through  a  long  series  of  years,  in  which  its  other 
mines  were  being  worked  at  a  loss.  Since  the  opening  of  this 
the  mine  of  Guatemotzin  has  given  up  millions  of  dollars.  The 
ore  extracted  in  the  district  is  about  twelve  thousand  cargas,  of 
three  hundred  pounds,  per  week,  and  the  wages  paid  the  labor- 
ers, miners,  muleteers,  teamsters,  etc.  amount  to  more  than 
forty  thousand  dollars  weekly.  It  may  seem  hardly  credible, 
but  nearly  the  whole  of  this  large  sum  is  spent  every  Saturday; 
by  Sunday  night  hardly  a  miner  has  a  copper  remaining.  He 
spends  it  in  pulque,  mainly,  and  such  things  as  profit  him  noth- 
ing. When  well  filled  with  pulque  he  is  very  valiant;  hardly  a 
day  passes  that  some  one  is  not  killed  or  wounded,  and  on  Sun- 
days grim  death  reaps  a  harvest. 

In  the  summer  of  1881,  the  inhabitants  of  Mexico  were  elec- 
trified by  the  news  that  an  old  mine,  which  had  been  neglected 
for  one  hundred  years  or  more,  had  been  found  in  bonanza. 
This  mine  \vas  owned  by  the  Conde  de  Regla,  who  employed 
two  hundred  slaves  at  work  there,  it  is  said,  chained  together. 
They  were  never  allowed  to  see  the  light,  after  having  entered 
the  horrible  pit,  and  finally,  despairing  of  escape,  they  set  the 
woodwork  of  the  mine  on  fire,  and  all  perished.  The  mine  has 
not  been  worked  since  until  recently,   as    it  filled  with  water. 


A   RIDE   THROUGH   A   MINING   REGION.  455 

Now,  the  workmen  are  discovering  old  tools,  skulls,  and  skel- 
etons, and  what  is  better,  —  silver.  There  are  many  of  these 
abandoned  mines,  from  which  the  Spaniards  were  driven  during 
the  revolution  of  1821,  that  were  yielding  their  millions.  Be- 
coming filled  with  water,  and  the  Mexicans  being  unable  to 
clear  them  out  with  their  inadequate  and  primitive  machinery, 
they  have  remained  unworked  to  the  present  day.  The  reopen- 
ing of  these  valuable  deposits  of  silver  has  been  the  favorite 
project  of  Mexican  miners  for  nearly  half  a  century;  but  very 
little  has  been  accomplished,  owing  to  the  amount  of  capital 
necessary  for  the  purchase  of  improved  pumping  apparatus, 
material  for  the  timbering  of  the  shafts,  and  hoisting  machinery. 

Scattered  over  the  brown  hillside  above  Pachuca,  gleaming 
white,  like  monuments  in  a  country  graveyard,  are  round  pillars 
of  stone,  two  feet  in  diameter  and  five  in  height.  They  are  the 
landmarks,  or  corner-posts,  that  define  the  locations  of  the  mines. 
In  locating  a  mine  in  this  country,  the  first  thing,  naturally,  is 
to  find  a  lode ;  then  one  person  may  take  up  two  claims  six 
hundred  feet  long  by  three  hundred  wide,  each ;  two  persons 
can  take  up  double  this  amount,  but  no  greater  location  than 
the  latter  can  be  made  by  one  company  on  the  same  lode  con- 
tinuously. The  width  of  the  location  may  be  amplified  accord- 
ing to  the  dip  of  the  lode.  For  example,  if  the  dip  of  the  lode 
be  very  shallow,  the  width  may  be  doubled  to  four  hundred 
metres.  The  petition  for  location  of  a  new  lode,  duly  filed  in 
the  mining  archives,  guarantees  the  prima  facie  right  to  final 
possession  upon  fulfilling  certain  conditions ;  namely,  the  sink- 
ing of  a  shaft  of  ten  or  more  metres,  or  running  the  same  distance 
in  a  tunnel  on  that  which  shall  be  declared  a  metal-bearing 
vein,  no  legal  objections  appearing.  If  objection  is  made  by 
owners  of  adjacent  mines,  or  other  persons,  the  matter  is  heard 
and  determined  by  the  "board,"  or  sent  to  the  courts. 

The  mining  laws  of  Mexico  have  been  handed  down,  with  few 
amendments,  from  the  crown  laws  of  Spain.  The  system  is 
simple,  and  eminently  practical.  "  Under  the  operation  of  this 
national  code,  mining  boards  are  established  in  all  localities 
where  mines  exist.     The  board  is  composed  of  three  members, 


456  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

one  being  elected  each  year  by  the  votes  of  mine-owners  only. 
The  oldest  member  is  president,  another  the  secretary.  The 
board  possesses  quasi-judicial  powers  for  adjudicating  disputed 
questions,  although  appeal  to  the  courts  may  be  taken  in  cases 
involving  interpretations  of  law.  One  of  the  board,  with  the 
consent  of  another  member,  personally  gives  formal  possession 
of  new  locations,  or  relocations  of  abandoned  mines.  The  re- 
port of  the  engineer,  with  a  map,  is  deposited  with  the  board, 
and,  if  no  objection  is  made,  the  formal  possession  is  at  once 
determined  on.  The  fee  of  the  engineer  is  $20  for  every  hun- 
dred metres.  The  fee  for  filing  declaratory  intention  to  locate 
is  $4.50,  and  a  government  stamp  of  $1.  The  fee  to  the  board 
in  granting  possession  varies  from  $60  to  $80,  discretionary 
with  the  officiating  member.  The  requirements  of  the  Mexican 
mining  laws  simply  relate  to  the  width  and  breadth  of  the  shaft, 
timbering,  and  other  mediums  of  safety.  They  are  no  more 
stringent  than  the  intelligent  mining  superintendent  would  nat- 
urally observe  in  managing  his  own  property.  Work  is  required 
to  be  performed  for  a  continuous  period  of  four  months,  at  the 
expiration  of  which  an  additional  four  months  without  work  is 
allowed.^  The  land-owner  still  retains  his  right  to  the  geo- 
graphical surface,  except  so  much  as  is  needed  by  the  mine 
proprietors  for  their  buildings,  etc.  In  case  he  so  requires,  the 
land-owner  is  paid  a  small  sum  for  his  property,  by  mutual 
agreement.  Should  a  dispute  arise,  it  is  immediately  referred 
to  arbitration  for  final  settlement.  In  the  State  of  Hidalgo  all 
mines,  regardless  of  extent,  are  by  law  divided  into  twenty-five 
parts,  called  barms,  one  of  which  belongs  to  the  State,  unas- 
sessable. This  free  barra  is  supposed  to  be  in  lieu  of  taxation. 
At  the  option  of  the  owners,  a  further  subdivision  is  made, 
called  bojios,  which  substantially  represents  the  shares.  In 
speaking  of  the  value  of  ores  in  this  country,  it  is  customary 

1  "  The  title  to  the  soil  of  Mexico  carries  no  title  to  the  gold  and  silver  mineral 
that  may  be  contained  in  the  land.  The  precious  metals  are  not  only  regarded  in 
law  as  treasure-trove,  but  they  carry  with  them  to  the  lucky  discoverer  the  right  to 
enter  upon  another  person's  land,  and  to  appropriate  so  much  of  the  land  as  is 
necessary  to  avail  himself  of  the  prize."  —  R.  A.  Wilson. 


A   RIDE   THROUGH   A   MINING   REGION.  457 

to  state  the  number  of  marcos  (a  marco  is  about  $8.85)  to  the 
monton,  three  thousand  pounds.  In  locating  mining  property, 
an  aHen  enjoys  the  same  rights  and  privileges  as  a  native." 

The  stronghold  of  the  silver  king,  or  of  the  "  company,"  is 
at  Real  del  Monte,  two  leagues  from  Pachuca,  and  several 
hundred  feet  higher.  Here  the  little  village  is  mined  beneath 
all  its  area,  and  the  hills  about  are  full  of  tunnels,  shafts,  and 
adits.  In  going  there  you  hire  a  horse  and  a  mozo  (a.  ser- 
vant), and  strike  up  and  over  the  hills  toward  the  east.  As 
you  mount  higher  and  higher,  and  the  road  winds  in  and  out, 
now  at  the  base  of  a  precipice,  now  at  the  top  of  another,  now 
topping  a  deep  ravine,  now  crossing  a  bridge,  yet  always  climb- 
ing, you  look  down  upon  and  over  a  glorious  sweep  of  hill  and 
valley;  far  down  below  is  the  Pachuca  plain,  covered  with  grow- 
ing crops  of  barley,  maguey,  and  wheat;  in  town,  the  most  con- 
spicuous objects  are  the  bull-ring,  the  cathedral,  the  new  theatre, 
and  the  old  convent  of  San  Juan  de  Dios.  Many  a  mile  of  hill 
and  plain  are  spread  out  before  us,  alternately  claiming  atten- 
tion, till  the  outermost  circle  of  all  is  reached,  blue,  dim,  misty^ 
above  which,  full  ninety  miles  away,  grand,  majestic  old  Popo- 
catapetl  thrusts  his  pointed  helmet,  crowned  with  perpetual 
snow,  through  clouds  of  silvery,  dazzling  white.  At  the  sum- 
mit of  the  ridge,  descending  the  eastern  slope,  is  a  beautiful 
grove  of  Mexican  oaks,  crowning  an  oval  hill,  each  tree  a  mound 
of  verdure.  Descending  the  hills,  you  come  to  others,  upon 
and  among  which  Real  del  Monte  is  built ;  far  beyond  may  be 
seen  some  curiously  formed  rocks  of  immense  size,  called  t'he 
Penas  Cargadas,  or  "  Loaded  Rocks."  It  was  here  that  the 
English  Real  del  Monte  Company  took  possession  of  the  mines 
whence  the  Count  of  Regla  extracted  his  great  wealth,  and, 
through  reckless  expenditure,  managed  to  absorb  $20,000,000, 
of  capital,  sent  out  to  them  from  England,  in  twenty-five  years. 
From  this  they  realized  but  $16,000,000,  "  and  the  present  pro- 
prietors enjoy  the  fruits  of  their  labors  at  a  cost  of  less  than  a 
million,  with  a  fair  prospect  of  realizing  as  large  a  treasure  as 
that  acquired  by  the  first  Count  of  Regla.  This  is  one  of  the 
most  extensive  mines  in  the  world,  where  an  average  of  five 


458 


TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 


thousand  men  and  unnumbered  animals  are  employed."  The 
foregoing  statement  was  written  twenty-five  years  ago,  and  so 
far  as  prospective  wealth  is  concerned  might  be  repeated  to-day, 
for  the  old  mines  seem  yet  unexhausted,  and  the  company  is 
still  prosecuting  its  labors  with  great  vigor.  One  can  scarcely 
comprehend  the  inexhaustible  nature  of  these  veins,  some  of 
which  have  been  worked  tJiree  centuries  and  a  half,  and,  after 
glutting  all  their  possessors  with   precious   metal,  still  beckon 


A  MINING   REGION. 


on  to  perhaps  yet  greater  deposits,  though  they  have  already 
been  followed  for  miles.  It  seems  as  though  the  expression 
"  silver  hills  "  has  more  than  a  figurative  meaning,  and  that 
the  entire  backbone  of  the  republic  is  of  silver,  with  ribs  of 
that  metal  and  of  gold  extending  deep  into  the  bowels  of  the 
earth. 

Leaving  behind  us  this  centre  of  ancient  enterprise,  situated, 
according  to  Humboldt,  nine  thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  we  took 
the  road  leading  to  Regla.     It  was  crowded  with  mules  and  don- 


A   RIDE   THROUGH   A   MINING   REGION.  459 

keys  laden  with  sacks  of  ore,  going  from  Pachuca  to  the  smelting 
establishments  of  Regla  and  San  Miguel,  and  we  had  great  dif- 
ficulty in  getting  through  them.  There  was  not  a  bridle  or  rein 
amongst  the  whole  lot  of  about  sixty,  yet  they  all  kept  together, 
guided  by  a  peon  and  two  men  in  leather  jackets  and  breeches, 
who  were  almost  covered  up  with  arms  of  all  kinds. 

The  Hacienda  de  Regla, ^  which  we  reached  about  noon,  is 
seven  leagues  from  Pachuca,  the  termination  of  the  road ;  it  is 
a  heterogeneous  collection  of  buildings,  crowded  into  a  mighty 
gorge,  which  is  walled  across.  In  describing  this,  the  strongest 
of  those  silver  works  erected  in  the  last  century,  I  scarcely  know 
how  to  approach  it ;  stupendous  works  of  nature  vie  with  mas- 
sive buildings  erected  by  man,  either  one  of  which  would  arrest 
the  attention  of  a  tourist  in  any  land.  But  let  us  examine  the 
natural  formation  first,  even  as  we  would  learn  the  general  out- 
line of  the  world's  map  before  man's  advent  upon  it.  Here  is 
the  Giant's  Causeway  of  America,  as  the  late  Bishop  Haven 
called  it.  "  It  is  worth  a  journey  of  a  thousand  miles  to  see  the 
Barranca  Grande  and  the  Regla  Palisades."  The  name  is  an 
exaggeration,  even  as  are  most  of  his  descriptions  and  narra- 
tions, yet  there  is  here  material  enough  to  warrant  a  comparison, 
and  no  mean  one  either.  Here  is  a  basaltic  formation  grander, 
perhaps,  than  any  the  United  States  can  boast.  Here  are  cliffs 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  enclosing  a  basin  deep  and 
wide.  Immense  basaltic  columns,  perpendicular  ranges  of  rock 
pillars,  rise  high  above  our  heads,  and  from  a  deep  gap,  at 
the  head  of  the  gorge,  a  stream  of  water  rushes  out,  —  an  im- 
mense volume, — which  takes  a  leap  of  forty  feet  or  more,  and 
plunges  into  a  rocky  basin.  It  is  a  most  striking  picture,  this 
foaming,  roaring  avalanche  of  milk-white  water,  suddenly  pro- 
jected into  view  from  a  deep  black  chasm,  and  precipitated  into 
this  rock-ribbed  ravine.  In  one  place  the  great  columns  are 
crowded  out,  as  though  by  the  superincumbent  weight  of  earth 

1  It  occurs  to  me  that  the  term  Juicicnda  needs  explanation.  It  puzzled  me  at 
first,  for  I  thought  the  name  only  applied  to  a  great  farm,  but  it  seems  there  are 
haciendas  del  campo,  or  farms,  and  hacieiidas  de  las  minas,  or  mills  ;  as  in  other  places 
I  have  found  ranchos,  or  small  farms  for  cattle,  and  ranchos  which  were  merely  wood 
camps. 


460 


TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 


and  rocks  above  them,  or  as  if  the  giant  that  fashioned  them 
had  bent  them  outward  from  the  perpendicular  face-Hne  of  the 
cliffs  when  in  a  state  of  fusion.  They  present  a  mass  of  hex- 
agonal rocks,  showing  well  the  shape  of  these  massive  columns. 


THE   CASCADE   OF   KEGLA. 


The  bed  of  the  river  that  flows  down  toward  the  barranca  is 
paved  with  these  hexagonal  and  pentagonal  blocks;  an  old 
aqueduct  leads  from  the  basin  to  the  mills,  forming  a  double 
arch  as  it  leaps  over  the  river-bed  and  enters  the  wall  surround- 


A   RIDE   THROUGH   A   MINING  REGION.  46 1 

ing  the  works.  The  organ  cactus  grins  out  of  the  rocks,  and 
great  yucca-leaved  trees  with  pendent  bunches  of  snow-white 
flowers  hang  above  the  buildings. 

What  an  indomitable  spirit  was  that  of  the  man  who  built 
these  works,  —  Peter  Terreros,  the  first  Count  of  Regla.  It 
is  estimated  that  he  expended  $2,500,000  upon  the  buildings 
constituting  this  refining  establishment,  sunk  in  this  barranca, 
below  the  level  of  the  table  land.  Right  here,  on  the  scene  of 
his  labors,  let  us  recall  who  and  what  he  was.  As  authority, 
I  will  quote  from  a  writer  of  a  quarter  of  a  century  ago, 
who  repeats  what  was  known  and  confirmed  by  Humboldt 
sixty  years  before.  "In  olden  times  the  water  in  the  Real  del 
Monte  mines  had  been  lifted  out  of  the  Santa  Brigeda  and  other 

shafts   in   bull-hides   carried   upon  a  windlass But   after 

a  certain  depth  had  been  reached,  the  head  of  water  could  no 
longer  be  kept  down  by  this  process,  and,  in  consequence,  the 
Real  del  Monte  was  abandoned,  about  the  beginning  of  the  last 
century,  and  became  a  perfect  ruin.  Peter  Terreros,  then  a  man 
of  limited  means,  conceived  the  idea  of  draining  this  abandoned 
mine  by  means  of  a  tunnel  or  adit  {socaboft)  through  the  rock, 
one  mile  and  a  quarter  in  length,  till  he  should  strike  the  Santa 
Brigeda  shaft.  From  1750  to  1762,  he  toiled  until  he  reached 
the  shaft,  and  also  a  bonanza,  which  continued  for  twelve  years 
to  yield  an  amount  of  silver  that  in  our  day  appears  fabulous. 
The  veins  which  he  struck  from  time  to  time  in  the  tunnel  kept 
the  enterprise  alive.  His  bonanza  not  only  furnished  the  means 
for  refitting  and  clearing  out  the  old  shaft,  but  from  his  surplus 
profits  he  laid  out  half  a  million  dollars  annually  in  the  purchase 
of  plantations,  or  six  million  dollars  in  the  twelve  years,  equal  to 
about  five  hundred  thousand  pounds'  weight  of  silver.  Besides, 
he  loaned  the  king  a  million  dollars,  which  has  never  been  repaid, 
and  built  and  equipped  two  ships  of  the  line  and  gave  them  to 
his  sovereign.  He  was  then  created  (this  muleteer  and  illiterate 
shopkeeper)  Count  of  Regla.  When  his  children  were  baptized, 
the  procession  walked  upon  bars  of  silver.  He  assured  the  king 
that,  if  he  would  visit  him,  wherever  he  walked  it  should  be  upon 
silver  bars,  and  that  his  apartments  should  be  lined  with  that 
precious  metal." 


462  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

This  hacienda  was  established  by  the  Conde  de  Regla  over 
one  hundred  years  ago,  and  the  reason  for  having  the  reduc- 
tion works  so  far  from  the  mines  is  that  there  is  an  abundance 
of  water  here,  and  Httle  there.  It  is  said  that  he  employed 
slaves  in  this  hacienda,  as  in  his  mines,  and  kept  them  in 
caverns  in  the  cliffs. 

Directly  in  front  of  the  church  is  the  patio,  court  or  yard,  in 
which  is  carried  on  the  operation  of  mixing,  kneading,  and  amal- 
gamating the  silver  ore,  called  the  "  Patio  process."  It  is  the 
oldest  Mexican  system  of  extracting  silver  from  its  ore,  and 
in  substance  the  only  one  tolerated.  The  ore  is  brought  here 
from  the  mines,  on  the  backs  of  mules  and  burros,  and  in  great 
carts,  crushed  into  pieces  the  size  of  a  walnut,  and  then  further 
crushed  and  triturated  beneath  heavy  blocks  of  basalt,  whirled 
about  in  a  circular  basin,  called  an  arrastre,  by  water-power. 
The  comminuted  ore  is  then  run  out  into  the  patio,  where 
it  is  spread  out  in  great  mud  pies,  and  this  mud,  mixed 
with  salt,  quicksilver,  and  copperas,  is  trodden  and  thoroughly 
kneaded  by  droves  of  horses  being  driven  through  it  a  certain 
number  of  hours  daily,  —  a  custom  introduced  from  Peru  in  1733. 
The  establishment  has  over  two  hundred  horses  and  mules,  and 
when  I  arrived  six  groups  of  twenty-four  horses  each  were  at 
work  on  different  beds  in  the  patio.  They  are  tied  together 
by  a  long  line,  which  a  man  who  stands  in  the  centre  holds  in 
his  hand,  and  compelled  to  travel  round  and  round  during  eight 
long  hours.  When  they  leave  the  valuable  deposit  they  are 
covered  with  precious  mud,  which  is  washed  from  them  in  a 
large  tank.  Further  mixing  with  chemicals,  washings,  and  tritu- 
rations, are  necessary  before  the  final  process  of  volatilization 
and  running  into  bars,  each  and  every  one  requiring  watchful 
care  and  skill  sharpened  by  long  experience.  The  process  is 
wasteful  in  the  extreme,  about  twenty  per  cent,  it  is  calculated, 
probably  remaining  in  the  residuum.  The  cost  of  reducing 
ores  in  this  manner  varies  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  dollars 
per  ton ;  consequently,  ores  yielding  less  than  thirty  dollars 
per  ton  are  not  generally  worked. 

It  was  worth   a  week's  journey  to   look  upon   these  mighty 


A   RIDE   THROUGH   A   MINING   REGION.  463 

palisades,  and  that  night,  when  the  moon  came  up  and  filled 
the  great  gap  with  mellow  light,  the  view  could  not  be  rec- 
ompensed by  a  month  of  ordinary  scenes.  Next  morning  I 
climbed  the  hill,  above  the  compact  castle  and  town,  through 
a  miserable  village,  with  one  street  that  led  upward,  and  full 
of  rocks  and  stones  that  had  a  tendency  to  send  you  down- 
ward. But  the  mozo  said  it  was  a  biieit  cainino,  a  good  road ; 
though  a  mozo  always  calls  any  road  good  that  has  holes  in 
it  less  than  four  feet  deep,  and  rocks  you  can  climb  over 
without  a  ladder.  After  a  time  we  attained  the  table  land 
again,  from  which  we  had  descended  into  the  gorge  the  day 
before.  This  portion  is  a  great  plain,  thickly  peppered  with 
stones  from  some  volcano,  and  in  the  distance  are  clumps  of 
cedar  and  acacia,  with  here  and  there  an  oak.  The  air  is  fra- 
grant with  cedar  odors,  and  the  pastures  might  be  those  of  the 
Massachusetts  hills,  but  for  the  maguey  along  the  walls. 

And  what  am  I  going  to  see?  A  barranca.  And  a  barranca 
is  —  a  hole  in  the  ground,  a  ravine  lengthened  out,  and  spread 
apart,  and  deepened,  until  it  has  ceased  to  be  a  ravine,  or  a 
gorge,  or  even  a  canon,  but  becomes  a  barranca.  And  this  is 
the  Barranca  Grande,  the  largest  one  in  the  State,  and  perhaps 
in  the  country,  miles  across,  and  with  walls  twenty-five  hundred 
feet  deep,  or  high,  according  to  whether  you  stand  at  top  or  bot- 
tom. The  mozo  leads  the  way  to  the  brink  of  a  precipice,  and 
I  look  down  into  the  barranca  of  the  river  from  Regla.  Steep 
walls  of  rock  are  under  my  feet,  at  the  base  of  which  is  the 
accumulated  detritus  of  centuries,  sloping  to  the  bottom,  where 
a  river  meanders  through  groves  of  trees  and  green-carpeted 
alluvium.  It  must  be  a  large  river,  though  it  looks  a  mere  sil- 
ver thread,  and  its  roaring  can  be  heard  here,  two  thousand 
feet  above  it.  Riding  still  farther  on  a  couple  of  miles,  over 
stone-strewn  hills,  I  reached  the  highest  prominence  on  the 
plateau,  between  the  Regla  barranca  and  one  still  grander,  into 
which  its  river  empties.  Below  me  stretched  the  great  barranca, 
pursuing  a  serpentine  course  from  north  to  south,  a  broad  vale 
of  green,  divided  into  fields  and  gardens,  with  dark  green  mango 
and   orange  trees   shading  a  most  luxuriant  vegetation,  and   a 


464 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


river  running  through  its  centre,  here  dark  and  quiet,  there 
foaming  over  shallows.  Brown  earth,  without  a  stone  appearing 
in  it,  indicated  fresh  cultivation,  and  little  thatched  huts,  upon 
various  spurs  and  elevations,  told  where  the  cultivators  lived.  A 
happy  valley  this  deep-sunken  barranca-bottom  appears  to  be ; 
but  doubtless  there  are  drawbacks  to  a  perfect  state  of  existence 
here ;  the  river  is  not  always  so  quiet,  and  sometimes  rushes  up 
the  hillsides  and  tears  away  these  homes  so  humble ;  and  as  to 
getting  there,  if  the  delight  of  being  secluded  is  great,  the 
difficulties  surrounding  it  are  greater,  for  the  roads  leading  down 
from  the  outer  world  are  long  and  tortuous,  steep  and  danger- 
ous, scarcely  passable  even  for  mules.  The  principal  plant  up 
here  is  a  prickly-pear,  growing  up  like  a  tree,  with  red  flowers, 
and  the  aloe ;   about  them  hover  butterflies  and  humming-birds. 

While  I  wrote  these  notes  my  mozo 
went  to  sleep  under  a  cactus,  on  a  con- 
tiguous hill,  and  the  horse  dozed  by  his 
side.  I  like  these  mozos ;  they  are  hon- 
est and  faithful.  In  the  number  I  have 
employed,  I  have  not  found  a  faithless 
one.  And  then  they  are  so  humble; 
they  will  hardly  address  you  without 
touching  their  hats,  and  are  very  grate- 
ful for  a  kindness.  Poor  fellows !  they 
get  little  enough  of  it  here.  This  one 
had  trotted  by  my  side  for  several  miles, 
and  when  I  gave  him  a  piece  of  silver  he 
could  not  understand  why  I  should  do 
so ;  it  was  only  two  reales,  yet  he  was  so 
profuse  in  his  thanks  that  I  galloped  away 
A  MOZO.  from  him  to  escape  them.     In  returning 

over  the  plain  he  sought  out  for  me  some 
specimens  of  obsidian,  —  the  volcanic  vitreous  stone  from  which 
the  Aztecs  used  to  make  their  spears,  knives,  and  arrow-heads. 
It  is  very  plentiful  here,  and  in  the  hills  between  these  plains  and 
Pachuca  there  are  indications  of  extensive  mines  by  the  Aztecs 
for  the  purpose  of  getting  this  valuable  product,  the  itzli,  which 


A   RIUE   THROUGH   A   MINING   REGION.  465 

stood  them  in  the  place  of  iron  and  steel.  This  region  of  quar- 
ries is  known  as  the  Mountain  of  Knives,  —  el  Cerro  de  las 
Navajas. 

San  Miguel  is  the  name  of  the  other  beneficiating  hacienda 
belonging  to  the  Real  del  Monte  Company ;  it  is  about  two 
miles  south  of  the  cascade,  and  the  most  delightful  in  the  silver 
region.  Intending  to  stay  there  but  an  hour,  I  was  induced  to 
remain  three  days.  Learning  that  I  had  sent  my  effects  on  to 
Pachuca  together  with  my  camera  and  gun,  the  adininistrador 
sent  a  peon  for  them  to  that  point,  a  distance  of  twenty  miles. 
When  I  returned  to  Pachuca,  that  same  peon  went  with  me  and 
carried  them  back,  making  in  all  eighty  miles  on  foot;  yet, 
when  I  made  him  a  present  of  but  a  dollar,  he  returned  me 
a  thousand  thanks,  —  "  Mil  gracias,  serioj',"  —  and  went  away 
delighted. 

Seiior  Anda,  the  administrador,  was  a  graduate  of  the  School 
of  Mines  in  Mexico,  —  which  has  sent  out  so  many  finished  en- 
gineers,—  a  commissioner  to  our  Centennial  Exhibition,  where 
he  received  honorable  mention,  and  is  now  the  head  of  a  haci- 
enda requiring  skill  and  education  to  manage. 

In  this  mill  they  use  a  different  process  from  that  of  Regla, 
called  the  "  Saxony,"  of  roasting  the  ore  and  washing  it  in 
revolving  barrels.  In  crushing  the  "  metal,"  they  use  the  "  Chi- 
lian process."  Huge  round  stones,  called  cJdleiios,  five  feet 
in  diameter,  are  made  to  revolve  in  a  basin  containing  the 
metal  and  water.  From  these  the  water  holding  the  silver  in 
solution  is  run  beneath  the  stamps,  and  then  into  the  patio,  where 
the  rich  mud  gradually  dries  and  is  deposited  in  great  beds ; 
then  it  is  dried  over  furnaces,  and  "  roasted,"  after  which  it 
is  mixed  with  mercury  and  "  washed  "  in  revolving  barrels ; 
the  surplus  mercury  is  squeezed  out  in  bags,  then  subjected  to 
heat  and  volatilized,  and  the  silver  run  into  bricks  weighing 
from  forty  to  fifty  pounds.  I  saw  one  mass  of  silver  and  mer- 
cury, as  it  was  placed  in  the  fire  to  be  melted  and  volatilized, 
that  weighed  750  pounds,  and  the  silver  alone  was  worth  $6,000. 
The  whole  process  is  conducted  within  closed  walls,  and  every 
weight  and  value  taken  down  in  writing  as  it  proceeds.      For 

30 


466  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

the  reason  that  the  substance  sought  is  so  precious,  all  these 
haciendas,  mills,  and  mines  are  surrounded  with  high  stone 
walls,  that  of  San  Miguel  being  quite  twenty  feet  high,  en- 
closing six  or  eight  acres. 

This  was  the  former  residence  of  the  Counts  of  Regla,  and 
their  house,  more  than  one  hundred  years  old,  is  yet  standing, 
while  the  gardens  of  San  Miguel  are  famous  throughout  Hi- 
dalgo. Here  the  springs  have  their  source,  that  swell  into 
streams,  and  finally  unite  in  the  river  that  has  worn  its  way 
through  the  basaltic  formation  of  Regla.  The  hills  circle  round 
on  three  sides,  but  are  open  on  the  north,  where  the  river  flows 
out;  an  extensive  wood  fills  this  open  amphitheatre,  visible,  as 
it  nestles  in  the  shelter  of  the  ridge,  for  many  miles.  The  most 
accessible  portion  of  this  basin,  just  outside  and  south  of  the 
enclosing  wall  of  the  hacienda,  was  once  transformed  into  a 
beautiful  garden,  famous  in  the  days  of  its  glory  for  its  lovely 
flowers  and  rare  plants.  The  waters  of  the  springs  —  called 
ojos  de  agua,  or  "  water-eyes  "  —  bubble  up  beneath  shapely 
oaks  hung  with  moss,  and  are  detained  by  a  solid  wall,  thrown 
across  the  hollow.  Around  the  lake  thus  formed  is  a  broad 
walk,  with  a  low  wall  on  either  side,  and  at  intervals  are  fash- 
ioned great  curved  seats  of  plastered  stone,  sometimes  cut  from 
the  solid  rock. 

I  doubt  if  there  are  as  many  mines  now  in  Mexico  as  at  the 
beginning  of  this  century,  when  Humboldt  estimated  them  at 
three  thousand  in  number ;  but  those  in  operation,  owing  to 
the  introduction  of  improved  machinery,  are  worked  at  greater 
profit.  As  the  railroads  are  extended,  and  remote  sections  are 
brought  into  communication  with  the  capital,  they  will  increase 
in  number  and  in  value ;  but  it  will  require  many  years  to  de- 
velop the  treasures  of  gold  and  silver  that  Mexico  holds  con- 
cealed. Though  the  mines  of  Pachuca  are  among  the  richest, 
there  are  others  in  the  republic  yet  more  extensive.  Accord- 
ing to  Sartorius,  the  Valenciana,  of  Guanajuato,  a  mine  that 
yielded  its  owners  an  annual  profit  of  a  million  dollars,  has 
shafts  and  adits  that  cost  several  millions,  and  a  lofty  and  broad 
spiral  path  is  cut  through  firm  rock  to  a  depth  of  over  five  hun- 


A   RIDE   THROUGH   A   MINING   REGION.  467 

dred  feet,  so  that  troops  of  mules  can  descend  into  the  lowest 
portions,  in  its  best  days  it  yielded  annually  seven  hundred 
thousand  hundred-weight  of  ore,  and  upwards  of  three  thousand 
persons  were  employed  in  it.  Second  in  importance  among 
the  old  mines  of  Guanajuato  is  the  mine  of  Los  Rayas,  from 
which  the  Icing  s  fifth  alone,  during  Spanish  possession,  was 
$17,365,000.  P>om  the  mine  of  El  Carmen,  in  the  State  of 
Sonora,  was  taken  a  lump  of  pure  silver  weighing  425  pounds, 
and  another  is  on  record  which  weighed  2,700  pounds.  The 
mines  of  San  Luis  Potosi  have  enriched  thousands.  The  story 
has  been  often  told  of  poor  Padre  Flores,  of  that  State,  who 
bought  a  small  claim,  and,  after  following  the  vein  a  little  ways, 
came  to  a  cavern  containing  the  ore  in  a  state  of  decomposition 
(like  that  found  in  the  Santa  Gertrudis),  and  from  this  silver 
cave  obtained  over  $3,000,000. 

From  the  four  silver-producing  States  that  hold  the  lead  — 
Pachuca,  Guanajuato,  Zacatecas,  and  Sonora  —  have  been  ob- 
tained the  greater  part  of  that  $4,000,000,000,  which,  it  is  esti- 
mated on  good  authority,  Mexico  has  yielded,  up  to  the  year 
1 884.  The  mines  of  Pachuca  have  an  advantageous  situation  in 
point  of  contiguity  to  the  Mexican  valley,  and  with  direct  com- 
munication with  Vera  Cruz ;  and  if  any  mines  in  Mexico  ever 
fulfil  the  promises  of  their  owners,  these  should  come  to  the 
front.  Experience,  however,  has  demonstrated  that  more  for- 
eign capital  has  been  poured  into  Mexican  mines  than  has  ever 
been  taken  out  of  them.  England's  experiment  of  sixty  years  ago 
cost  her  millions,  and  Americans  should  heed  the  warning. 

Though  it  may  appear  from  the  preceding,  that  the  primitive 
processes  are  wasteful  in  the  extreme,  and  that  the  very  rivers 
are  carrying  away  as  wastage  thousands  of  pounds  of  silver 
annually,  yet  it  is  doubtful  if  Americans  can  substitute  for  the 
Mexican  process  any  other  which  will  more  economically  extract 
the  metal  from  ores  of  so  low  a  grade  as  only  are  found  here. 

One  never  knows  when  he  is  safe  in  Mexico,  either  in  person 
or   in   pocket.     Now,  though   I   had  spent   a  week   among  the» 
hills,  and  had  seen  nothing  of  an  alarming  nature,  yet  the  man 
who  rode  down  with  me  from  the  mining  region  astonished  me 


468 


TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 


by  relating  a  circumstantial  account  of  the  murder  of  eight  men, 
while  I  was  absent  in  the  interior.  These  were  all  miners,  and 
they  considerately  confined  their  operations  to  carving  one  an- 
other. Three  were  killed  in  a  little  hamlet  I  passed  through, 
he  said,  just  after  I  left  it,  and  yet  I  did  not  see  a  single  sign  of 
disturbance  while  I  was  gone ;  in  fact,  it  was  a  great  disappoint- 
ment to  me,  for  I  know  that  a  spicy  adventure  is  needed,  just 
now,  to  relieve  the  monotony  of  these  chapters. 


XXIII. 

TOLTEC   RUINS   AND   PYRAMIDS. 

WE  left  the  great  city  at  six  o'clock  in  the  morning,  when 
the  air  was  cool,-  and  before  the  sun  had  risen  far  above 
the  snow-capped  volcanoes  that  guard  the  valley,  gliding  over  a 
smooth  road-bed,  through  level  fields  of  grain  and  grass  divided 
by  hedges  of  maguey,  past  immense  savannas  where  flocks  of 
sheep  were  feeding,  tended  by  most  picturesque  shepherds  in 
sarapes  and  sombreros,  through  clean  stretches  of  good  brown 
earth,  where  the  corn-blades  were  just  springing  in  the  hollows, 
past  great  haciendas  with  buildings  like  ancient  forts  surrounded 
by  high  and  loopholed  walls,  with  willows  drooping  above  mud 
huts,  and  church  towers  rising  everywhere  on  plain  and  hill. 
At  seven  we  reached  Atzcaptzalco,  a  little  town,  and  after 
leaving  this  pueblo  again  took  our  way  through  beautiful  plains, 
with  fields  of  peas  in  bloom  bordering  the  track,  and  green 
levels  stretching  far  away  on  either  hand,  dotted  with  feeding 
cattle.  Above  and  beyond  were  grades  and  curves,  and  the 
hills  were  ascended  one  after  the  other,  and  we  dipped  into 
other  valleys  and  got  glimpses  of  the  country  farther  on. 

Up  to  Tlalnepantla  the  rich  and  easily-worked  soil  would  have 
caused  a  Northern  farmer  to  open  his  eyes,  for  there  was  not 
even  a  stone  to  sharpen  the  plough  upon ;  it  might  be  said  that 
there  were  no  ploughs  either  susceptible  of  being  polished  by 
friction  from  stones,  for  here  these  primitive  farmers  plough 
with  a  stick,  as  in  times  most  ancient.  One  small  valley  we 
passed  through  belonged,  with  its  surrounding  hills  and  a  gem 
of  a  lakelet  in  its  centre,  to  one  estate.  Though  the  railroad 
cuts  along  the  borders  of  a  worthless  hill,  still  the  wealthy  pro- 
prietor of  this  vast  estate    obliged  the  company  to  pay  for  a 


470  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

right  of  way.  There  is  room  here  for  some  reflection  upon 
the  rapacity  and  ignorance  of  some  of  these  Mexicans,  who 
throw  every  obstacle  in  their  power  in  front  of  the  wheels  of 
progress. 

Cuautitlan,  another  small  town,  reached  in  about  two  hours  from 
Mexico,  is  much  resorted  to  as  a  place  for  festive  gatherings. 
Here  the  bull,  the  "  noble  patriarch  of  the  herd,"  is  taken  from 
an  uneventful  life  of  inaction  in  the  field,  and  permitted  to  try 
his  prowess  against  the  valiant  Mexican.  A  flaming  placard 
announced  that  there  would  be  a  bull-fight  in  this  place  that 
evening,  —  Esplendida  Corrida  de  Torosvn  la  Villa  de  Cuautitlan, 
—  when  there  would  be  sacrificed  Cuatro  Tremeudos  y  Bravos 
Toros. 

A  procession  of  beggars  here  invaded  the  train,  and  brought 
with  them  the  odors  of  a  dozen  bone-boiling  establishments ; 
they  also  exhibited  for  our  inspection  a  greater  variety  in 
deformity  and  mutilation  than  many  a  hospital  can  show  in  a 
year.  These  loathsome  evidences  of  their  claim  upon  humanity 
they  thrust  beneath  our  noses,  expecting  us  to  pay  them  for 
the  privilege  of  inspection.  After  we  had  departed,  and  the 
strong  breeze  sweeping  through  the  car  had  permitted  us  to 
indulge  in  a  long  breath,  one  of  the  engineers  remarked  that  the 
civilizing  eff"ect  of  the  "iron  horse"  was  already  being  made 
manifest,  —  he  had  heard  of  several  of  these  beggars  having 
been  run  over.  It  has  been  a  question  among  old  residents  in 
Mexico  whether  it  would  be  better  to  leave  the  extermination 
of  these  wretches  to  the  slow  advance  of  the  railroad,  or  to  pass 
laws  for  their  suppression  and  extinction.  A  most  speedy  way 
of  killing  them  ofl"  has  been  suggested,  which  has  the  counte- 
nance of  enlightened  communities :  it  is  to  pass  a  law  that 
every  beggar  shall  bathe  once  a  week,  —  there  would  not  be 
one  left  alive  at  the  end  of  a  month's  time. 

At  the  hacienda  of  Huehuetoca.  we  were  fairly  in  the  dry 
country  that  forms  a  certain  portion  of  Mexico,  where  acacias 
and  cacti  are  the  only  plants  of  any  size,  and  hills  and  plains  alike 
are  brown  and  treeless.  In  the  crossing  of  the  great  ridge  of 
hills  that  forms  the  outermost  barrier  around  the  valley  of  Mex- 


TOLTEC   RUINS   AND   PYRAMIDS. 


473 


ico,  the  engineers  of  the  "  Central "  have  availed  themselves  of 
a  more  magnificent  piece  of  engineering  than  they  themselves 
could  have  afforded  to  undertake,  —  a  work  dating  from  the 
beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century,  —  the  great  cut  of  No- 
chestongo,  an  immense  gap,  said  to  be  three  miles  long,  and  in 
places  two  hundred  feet  deep.  Utilizing  the  work  of  more  than 
two  centuries  ago,  the  railroad  thus  secured  an  easy  egress  from 
the  great  mountain  valley,  and  proceeds  by  easy  grades  to  the 
country  beyond. 

The  end  of  our  ride  on  the  railroad  was  at  the  small  hamlet  of 
Salto,  for  rails  had  not  then  —  in  the  summer  of  1881  —  been 
laid  much  farther  on ;  and  we  left  the  train  and  took  to  horses, 
which  had  been  telegraphed  for  and  were  awaiting  us.  These 
animals  we  mounted,  after  many  adjustings  of  stirrups  and 
saddles,  and  galloped  off  in  the  direction  of  Tula.  We  were  a 
picturesque  crowd,  with  our  Mexican  saddles  and  accoutrements, 
our  revolvers  and  blankets  ;  though  the  novelty  of  my  position, 
on  the  back  of  a  horse  I  had  never  met  before,  rather  interfered 
with  my  enjoyment  of  the  scene.  In  five  minutes  our  whole 
party  was  enveloped  in  a  cloud  of  dust,  so  that  all  one  could  do 
was  to  cling  to  the  saddle  and  let  the  horse  steer  his  own  course. 
We  soon  reached  the  Tula  River  bridge,  where  three  solid  piers 
of  stone  were  in  readiness  to  receive  an  iron  bridge  that  was 
being  put  together  on  the  banks,  and  where  six  hundred  men 
were  at  work  in  the  little  vale.  They  were  under  the  intelli- 
gent direction  of  a  contractor,  Mr.  Carrigan,  who  successfully 
managed  this  large  body  of  Indians  and  half-breeds,  and  was 
pushing  the  work  ahead  rapidly.  It  was  pay-day,  and  the  men 
were  formed  in  a  long  line,  each  awaiting  his  turn  to  receive 
his  week's  wages.  A  common  laborer  on  the  road  receives 
about  thirty-one  cents  per  day ;  and  this  amount,  large  as  it  is, 
he  successfully  manages,  when  he  gets  it,  to  squander  in  riotous 
living. 

On  our  return,  the  next  day,  two  huge  derricks,  which  we  had 
not  seen  before,  were  in  position,  ready  to  swing  the  iron  bridge 
into  place ;  three  days  later,  it  was  resting  upon  its  bed  of 
masonry,  and  in    less   than  two   weeks  more   the  engine   had 


474 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


crossed  it  on  its  way  northward,  and  was  snorting  "  Buenos  dias  " 
to  Tula  itself.  The  workmen  lived  in  little  huts,  made  of  the 
branches  of  trees  and  the  leaves  of  the  maguey  plant,  just  large 
enough  to  shelter  them ;   and  at  a  point  on  the  river  they  had 


-;:|^;'^r?^''i^'  'i^^^:^^^' 


scooped  out  holes  in  the  clay  banks,  and  there  taken  up  their 
abode.  In  the  huts,  and  beneath  bowers  of  branches,  Indian 
women  were  quietly  engaged  in  making  tortillas  and  in  other 
domestic  duties.  Looking  upon  this  peaceful  scene  of  activity, 
I  could  not  help  thinking  of  what  a  gentleman,  an  American 


TOLTEC    RUINS    AND    PYRAMIDS.  475 

long  resident  in  Mexico,  had  said  to  me,  coming  up  on  the  train 
from  Vera  Cruz :  "  So  long  as  these  people  can  earn  a  real  a 
day  on  the  railroads,  they  will  not  listen  to  the  pronimciamiento 
of  any  revolutionary  chief." 

From  the  bridge  we  took  the  graded  railroad  bed  to  the  end  of 
our  journey.  The  scenery  was  mainly  that  peculiar  to  the  dry 
hills,  except  where  the  aqueduct  traced  its  fruitful  course,  or 
in  the  river-bottom.  Now  and  then  we  were  obliged  to  turn 
aside  for  an  unfinished  culvert,  or  walk  our  horses  over  frail 
bridges  of  brush,  earth,  and  poles,  and  occasionally  the  "  Cui- 
dado  !  "  of  our  guide  would  warn  us  of  a  bad  place  in  the  road  to 
be  avoided ;  but  at  the  appointed  time  we  reached  Tula,  over 
fifty  miles  from  Mexico,  and  the  centre  of  a  populous  State. 
In  this  town  we  found  friends  to  welcome  us,  for  it  was  the  head- 
quarters of  the  superintendent  of  construction  and  his  party. 
Here  I  found  a  few  friends  who  had  left  New  York  with  me 
two  months  previous,  and  who  had  come  on  here  while  I 
stopped  in  Yucatan. 

Surrounded  by  hills  of  apparently  basaltic  rock,  the  little 
city  of  Tula  is  compactly  built  of  stone,  taken,  probably,  from 
the  ruins  of  Indian  cities.  It  has  a  pleasant  little  plaza,  contain- 
ing a  garden  of  flowers,  with  a  fountain  bubbling  up  in  the 
centre  of  a  stone  basin.  The  town  was  formerly  of  great 
importance  to  the  Spanish  invaders  and  settlers,  and  here  they 
built  their  most  holy  and  noble  cathedral,  dating  (if  we  can 
believe  the  inscription  on  the  wall)  from  the  year  1553.^  It  is  a 
magnificent  building,  with  lofty  groined  ceiling,  and  with  a  col- 
lection of  paintings  that  appear  to  possess  great  merit,  as  well  as 
antiquity.  One  especially,  of  the  Virgin  supporting  the  dead 
Christ,  is  less  a  caricature  than  is  generally  seen  in  these  holy 
pictures.  There  is  on  her  face  an  expression  of  real  suffering; 
pity,  compassion,  and  all  the  yearning  of  a  mother's  bleeding 
heart,  are  most  admirably  depicted.  A  wall,  that  once  served 
the  purpose  of  defence,  surrounds  this  great  cathedral,  and  build- 

1  The  churches  founded  at  this  period,  some  of  which  still  exist,  were  Tepoztlan, 
Ayacapistla,  Mestitlan,  Molango,  Cuernavaca,  Oculman,  and  Tula,  and  were  adorned 
with  paintings  by  distinguished  masters. 


476 


TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 


ing  and  enclosure  arc  well  worth  a  visit,  even  in  this  land  of 
churches  and  chapels. 

The  Tula  River  runs  near,  half  around  the  town,  and  where 
the  road  reaches  it  a  bridge  is  thrown  across,  —  a  bridge  of 
stone,  arched,  and  with  a  parapet,  and  with  an  inscription  on 
a  tablet  stating  that  it  was  built  in  1772, 

Ancient  Tula  must  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing groups  of  ruins  in  Mexico,  the  seat  of  the  people  who  gave 


v^,> 


SCULPTURES    IN    THE    PLAZA. 


to  the  country  an  advanced  civilization,  of  which  evidences  yet 
exist.  Above  the  city,  on  a  hill  overlooking  two  valleys,  'a 
ridge  about  a  mile  in  length,  are  the  ruins  of  buildings  said  to 
have  been  erected  before  even  the  Aztecs  came  to  this  country. 
In  the  year  648,  according  to  Prescott,  who  follows  the  native 
historian,  Clavigero,  the  Toltecs  arrived  in  this  valley  and  com- 
menced their  city;  they  abandoned  it  in  the  year  105 1,  and 
the  Chichimecs  took  possession  in  11 70,  and  eventually  the 
Mexicans,  in  1196.     Here  the  last  tarried  for  one  hundred  and 


TOLTEC    RUINS   AND   PYRAMIDS.  477 

twenty-nine  years,  took  quite  a  breathing  spell,  in  fact,  and  then 
went  and  founded  the  city  of  Mexico.  It  will  thus  be  seen  that 
the  ruins  of  Tula  have  great  antiquity.  Prescott  states  that  the 
Toltecs  are  the  first  people  of  which  we  have  traditions,  coming 
from  a  northerly  direction.  They  entered  Anahuac  (Mexican 
valley)  probably  before  the  close  of  the  seventh  century.  They 
were  well  instructed  in  agriculture  and  mechanic  arts,  and  in- 
vented the  complex  arrangement  of  time  adopted  by  the  Aztecs. 
"  They  fixed  their  capital  at  Tula,  north  of  the  Mexican  valley, 
and  the  remains  of  extensive  buildings  were  to  be  discerned 
there  at  the  time  of  the  conquest.  The  noble  ruins  of  religious 
and  other  edifices  are  referred  to  this  people.  Their  shadowy 
history  reminds  one  of  those  primitive  races  who  preceded  the 
ancient  Egyptians.  After  four  centuries,  the  Toltecs  disappeared 
as  silently  and  mysteriously  as  they  came." 

Whatever  of  mystery  may  have  enveloped  their  advent,  their 
disruption  as  a  nation  and  final  dispersion  is  as  circumstan- 
tially told,  and  is  as  authentic,  as  any  story  or  tradition  relating 
to  that  early  period.  It  was  at  the  beginning  of  the  eleventh 
century,  if  we  may  credit  the  Indian  historian,  Ixtlilxochitl, 
that  the  seeds  of  disturbance  were  sown  in  the  hitherto  peace- 
ful kingdom  of  Tollan,  and  all  through  the  illicit  love  of  the 
then  reigning  monarch,  Tecpancaltzin,  for  a  woman,  a  daughter 
of  Papantzin,  one  of  his  nobles.  The  sin  of  Tecpancaltzin,  ac- 
cording to  the  historian,  brought  with  it  its  punishment,  and 
during  the  reign  of  his  natural  son,  Meconetzin,  the  Toltecs 
were  destroyed  as  a  people,  not  only  through  internal  dissen- 
sions and  famine,  but  in  a  great  battle  waged  with  an  invading 
nation  from  Xalisco.  They  were  scattered  in  every  direction, 
but  have  been  traced  mainly  southward.  The  discovery  of 
pulque,  the  national  beverage  of  Mexico,  dates  from  this  epoch, 
and  is  said  to  have  been  made  in  this  very  region. 

Upon  examining  the  ruins  on  the  hill,  previously  mentioned 
as  commanding  the  town,  we  found  that  some  one  had  been 
excavating  there.  I  then  recalled  the  account  given  by  Char- 
nay,  the  French  archaeologist,  in  which  he  pretends  to  have 
unearthed  temples  and    palaces  on  this  very  site.      Imagine  a 


478  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

palace  composed  of  rooms  about  six  feet  by  eight !  Such 
were  about  the  dimensions  of  the  apartments  referred  to,  and 
which  we  photographed  and  rambled  over  that  day. 

Seiior  Cubas,^  in  a  paper,  Ruiuas  de  la  Antigua  Tollan,  pub- 
lished in  1874,  gives  a  list  of  the  antiquities  discovered  near 
Tula,  and  lithographed  figures  of  the  most  prominent  sculptures, 
which  included  a  "zodiac"  and  a  "hieroglyph,"  now  seen  in 
the  lintel  of  the  principal  entrance  to  the  great  church.  In  the 
Plaza  are  some  great  stones,  taken  from  the  ruins  of  the  Toltec 
city.  There  are  three  colossal  sculptures,  perhaps  of  Caryati- 
des, standing  erect,  and  another  lying  down ;  this  last  is  in  two 
pieces,  and  was  formerly  united  by  tenon  and  mortise,  even  as  I 
found  the  adornments  on  the  palace  at  Uxmal.  Near  the  office 
of  the  railroad  superintendent  is  a  great  stone  ring,  like  those 
found  in  the  ruins  of  Chichen-Itza.  At  the  door  of  the  cathedral 
is  a  beautiful  baptismal  font,  —  at  least,  that  is  its  use  now,  — 
taken  from  these  same  Toltec  ruins.  Doubtless,  nearly  all  the 
buildings  here  were  made  from  stone  taken  from  the  Toltec 
city,  as  you  may  find  sculptured  stones  used  for  the  pavement 
of  courts,  inserted  into  walls,  etc. 

I  have  thus  roughly  sketched  the  old  city  at  which  the 
great  railroad  arrived  in  April,  1881.  Let  tourists  and  archse- 
ologists  visit  it,  now  that  they  can  do  so  with  little  fatigue.  It 
does  not  need  a  more  prophetic  eye  than  belongs  to  ordinary 
man  to  discern  the  result  of  the  opening  of  a  country  so  rich  in 
mineral  and  archaeological  wealth.  For  a  thousand  years  man 
has  lived  in  this  country,  —  a  thousand  that  are  chronicled, — 
and  no  one  knows  how  many  previously.  The  w^orks  of  his 
hands  lie  scattered  throughout  valley  and  plain,  crest  many  a 
hill,  and  adorn  many  a  secluded  vale.  The  time  is  coming 
when  these  buried  cities  shall  again  see  the  light.  The  time  has 
come  when  it  is  possible  to  reach  many  hitherto  hidden  from 


1  The  same  author  gives  a  table  showing  the  Indian  towns  and  the  languages 
spoken,  and  by  this  we  see  that  the  Otomi  predominates,  one  in  which  some  phi- 
lologists have  asserted  there  is  an  analogy  with  the  Chinese.  The  Otomies  consti- 
tuted the  most  ancient  population  of  Anahuac,  and  were  expelled  from  Tollan  on 
the  arrival  of  the  Toltecs. 


TOLTEC    RUINS   AND   PYRAMIDS.  48 1 

the  world  ;  daily,  workmen  are  unearthing  some  reHc  of  the  past, 
and  if  our  scientific  societies  would  keep  pace  with  the  develop- 
ment of  this  country,  they  should  appoint  a  small  party  of  quali- 
fied men  to  travel  over  this  road  with  the  advanced  engineers. 

Tradition  has  it  that  here  the  great  culture  hero,  Quetzalcoatl, 
developed  the  civilization  that  raised  the  Toltecs  above  the  level 
of  their  neighbors.  Here  is  pointed  out  that  famous  "  Hill  of 
Shouting,"  whence  the  "  God  of  the  Air"  sent  his  summons  and 
commands  over  the  entire  vale  of  Anahuac.  Here  were  those 
celebrated  gardens,  in  which  grew  cotton  ready  dyed  in  various 
colors  for  the  loom,  and  those  famous  crystal  and  feather  palaces. 

Some  say  that  Ouetzalcoatl  was  a  native  of  the  East,  and  came 
from  over  the  ocean.  For  him,  indeed,  has  been  claimed  nearly 
every  nationality  on  earth,  and  he  has  been  by  turns  a  Welsh- 
man, an  Egyptian,  and  even  an  Irishman;  but,  as  it  is  expressly 
stated  that  he  was  a  man  of  peace,  this  last  supposition  is  hardly 
tenable. 

Beyond  Tula,  and  within  reach  of  a  day's  excursion  from 
Mexico  City,  is  Queretaro,  a  city  founded  by  early  Spanish 
settlers,  and  celebrated  for  its  magnificent  aqueduct,  its  vast 
and  enterprising  cotton  factories,  and  for  the  sad  part  it  played 
in  the  overthrow  of  the  Maximilian  dynasty. 

The  Hill  of  Bells, —  Cerro  de  las  Campanas ,  —  where  the  Em- 
peror was  shot,  is  conspicuous  near  the  city,  and  the  objective 
point  of  many  a  pilgrimage,  now  that  the  railroad  has  made  it 
accessible  from  the  capital. 

Situated  southeast  of  Tula,  and  about  forty  miles  distant  from 
Mexico  City,  are  other  ruins  intimately  connected  with  Toltec 
history,  —  the  pyramids  of  Teotihuacan.  Both  during  their  resi- 
dence at  Tula,  and  after  the  disruption  of  their  empire,  when  a 
remnant  of  the  Toltecs  turned  their  faces  in  this  direction,  these 
pyramids  were  considered  by  them  as  the  nucleus  of  a  holy  city, 
Teotihuacan,  City  of  the  Gods.  Their  kings  came  here  to  be 
crowned,  and  here  dwelt  their  priests ;  but  though  their  tradi- 
tions undoubtedly  refer  to  these  pyramids,  yet  they  are  doubt- 
less of  pre-Toltec  origin.  The  pyramidal  structure  seems  to 
have   been  confined    to  the  table   land   and   its  central   slopes; 

31 


482 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


as  in  the  South,  this  primitive  method  of  a  people  yet  in  the 
infancy  of  art  and  architecture  is  succeeded  by  grand  build- 
ings worthy  the  name  of  palaces, 
and  adorned  with  sculptures  that 
have  elicited  the  admiration  of  the 
world. 

The  largest  structure  here  is  the 
"  Pyramid  of  the  Sun,"  —  Tonatiuh 
Itzaciiatl,  "  House  of  the  Sun,"  —  with 
a  base  of  over  seven  hundred  feet,  and 
a  height  of  two  hundred ;  the  next, 
the  "  Pyramid  of  the  Moon,"  having 
one  side  of  its  base  426  feet  in  length, 
another  one  511,  and  a  height  of  137 
feet.^  These  are  the  principal  pyra- 
mids, but  there  are  also  many  smaller 
mounds  and  pyramidal  elevations,  which 
nearly  surround  the  larger  ones,  and 
line  a  broad  roadway,  called  the  "  Street 
of  the  Dead."  The  two  pyramids  are 
2,700  feet  apart;  both  are  built  in 
terraces,  and  to-day  have  broad  level 
platforms  at  their  summits,  with  path- 
ways much  obstructed  by  debris  wind- 
ing up  their  sides.  Both  are  composed 
of  rock,  stones,  cement,  and  pottery, 
and  their, outlines  are  hardly  any  more 
sharply  defined,  at  the  present  day, 
than  an  ordinary  steep-sided  hill.  The 
vegetation  of  aloes  and  creeping  vines 
which  covers  their  sides  contributes 
to  hide  the  pyramidal  outline,  and  the 
MORTISED  BLOCK  AT  TULA,     facing    of   drcsscd    stone,    with    which 


^  Senor  Cubas  gives  the  largest  dimensions  of  any  one  to  these  pyramids,  as  is 
natural,  he  being  a  son  of  Mexico  and  solicitous  for  her  reputation :  Piramide  del  Sol 
(Pyramid  of  the  Sun),  north  and  south  side  of  base,  232  metres;  east  and  west 
(western  face),  220  metres  ;  height,  66  metres.    Piramide  de  la  Luna  (the  Moon), 


TOLTEC   RUINS   AND   PYRAMIDS. 


483 


their  sides  were  once  probably  encased,  has  been  entirely  re- 
moved in  the  lapse  of  time. 

The  summit  platform  of  each  pyramid  once  supported  re- 
spectively images  of  the  sun  and  of  the  moon,  covered  with 
gold,  and  glowing  so 
brightly  as  to  guide 
the  worshippers  on 
their  way  to  the  val- 
ley to  visit  this  most 
holy  place  of  ancient 
times.  No  vestige 
of  image  or  statue 
remains,  save  a  great 
carved  block,  called 
a  "  sacrificial  stone," 
now  lying  two  hun- 
dred yards  from  the 
Pyramid  of  the 
Moon,  said  to  have 
been  overthrown  by 
the  Spanish  bishop 
of  hated  memory, 
Zumarraga,  and  ex- 
cavated by  order  of 
Maximilian. 

In  the  western 
face  of  the  Pyramid 
of  the  Moon  we  saw 
an  opening,  which  is 
supposed  by  some  to 
lead  to  hitherto  un- 
explored treasure- 
vaults  deep  down  in 
the  body  of  this  vast 


PIRAMIDES  DE  TEOTIHUACAM 

E3  C ALA  -lo'oStf 

lM        'Ut  3ii<  491         Si> 


east  and  west  line  of  base,  156  metres;  north  and  south,  130  metres;  height,  46 
metres  ;  orientation,  north  face  of  the  Moon,  from  east  to  west,  88°  30/  N.  W. ; 
orientation,  east  face  of  the  Sun,  from  south  to  north,  1°  30'  N.  E. 


484  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

Structure.  By  creeping  on  the  hands  and  knees  through  this 
narrow  passage  down  an  incline  for  about  twenty-four  feet,  one 
has  the  satisfaction  of  reaching  a  pozo,  or  well,  about  fifteen  feet 
deep.  Farther  than  this  no  one  has  yet  penetrated ;  yet  it  is  safe 
to  say  that  this  aperture  was  left  by  the  ancient  builders  of  this 
pyramid,  and  not  made  by  treasure-seekers,  as  is  shown  by  the 
carefully  cut  and  smoothed  walls  of  the  passage  and  well.  It  is 
conjectured  that  the  Pyramid  of  the  Sun  has  a  similar  opening, 
as  yet  unknown,  because  hidden  by  the  accumulated  debris  of 
centuries ;  and  if  this  is  found,  it  is  thought  that  a  larger  cham- 
ber will  be  discovered  than  in  the  Pyramid  of  the  Moon,  owing 
to  the  greater  length  of  base,  approximating  nearly  to  that  of 
the  Pyramid  of  Cheops.  Two  great  peaks  rise  from  the  distant 
ridge  of  enclosing  hills,  one  exactly  south  and  the  other  north, 
and  a  line  drawn  from  one  to  the  other  of  these  pyramids  passes 
exactly  over  the  apices  of  both.  There  may  be  nothing  in  this, 
yet  it  struck  me  as  a  remarkable  coincidence,  as  I  verified  my 
casual  observation  with  the  compass,  standing  on  the  summit  of 
the  Pyramid  of  the  Sun. 

South  of  the  Pyramid  of  the  Moon,  and  running  along  the 
western  base  of  that  of  the  Sun,  is  the  wonderful  avenue  called 
El  Camino  de  los  Miiertos,  —  the  Road  of  the  Dead,  or  Micoatli, 
lined  on  either  side  with  tumuli.  These  mounds  have  been  a 
still  greater  puzzle  to  antiquarians  than  the  pyramids,  yet  it 
would  seem  that  the  ancient  appellation  applied  to  the  place, 
"  Path  of  the  Dead,"  would  explain  their  object.  Senor  Cubas 
says  that  from  some  of  them  human  bodies  have  been  taken ; 
and  it  may  be  that  those  clay  heads  that  we  find  scattered  in 
such  numbers  over  the  plain  are  the  effigies  of  buried  priests 
and  kings.  These  heads  of  clay  or  terra-cotta,  so  grotesque  in 
feature  and  singular  in  design,  are  so  abundant  that  one  can 
hardly  wander  over  a  freshly-ploughed  field  without  treading 
on  one.  No  two  of  them,  it  is  said,  have  ever  been  found  alike 
in  feature,  and  this  would  seem  to  bear  out  the  theory  that 
they  were  designed  as  images  of  the  kings,  priests,  or  minor 
rulers. 

Garcia  Cubas,  in  his  study  of  these  pyramids,  likens  the  insig- 


TOLTEC   RUINS   AND   PYRAMIDS. 


485 


nificant  Rio  Teotihuacan,  which  flows  near,  to  the  Nile,  and  the 
Caniino  de  los  Miiertos  he  calls  another  Memphis ;  in  fact,  he 
finds  here  a  duplication  of  the  pyramids  of  Egypt.^  This 
learned  Mexican  deduces  an  Egyptian  contact  with  Mexico, 
and  argues  that  the  people  who  constructed  the  American  mon- 
uments, if  they  did  not  come  directly  from  Egypt,  were  at  the 
least  descendants  of  others  to  whom  the  Egyptians  had  trans- 


CLAY    HEADS   OF   TEOXmUACAN. 


mitted  their  knowledge.  But  as  this  was  written  a  dozen  years 
ago,  the  worthy  man  may  have  changed  his  mind  by  this  time, 
and  may  now  view  them  differently. 

That  portion  of  the  plain  of  Teotihuacan  immediately  about 
the  pyramids  is  rather  sterile,  but  about  the  little  village  of  San 
Juan,  where  clear  streams  have  their  birth,  near  an  ancient  tein- 
plo,  the  soil  is  fertile,  and  the  dwellers  there  seem  contented  and 
happy.  At  all  events,  they  are  contented  and  lazy,  and  it  is  only 
by  very  active  skirmishing  that  one  may  eventually  capture  a 

1  Ensayo  de  un  Estudio  Comparativo  entre  las  Piramides  Egipcias  y  Mexicanas, 
Mexico,  1874. 


486  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

boy  as  guide  to  the  ruins,  and  it  requires  equally  hard  work  to 
find  a  horse.  But  one's  energies  are  taxed  to  the  utmost  to  keep 
away  the  horde  of  ragged  juveniles,  who  appear  with  sacks  full 
of  clay  heads,  obsidian  knives,  and  curious  caiideleros,  which  they 
insist  upon  your  buying.  Travellers  have  wondered,  as  we 
wonder  to-day,  at  the  unhmited  supply  of  these  "  antiquities," 
as  the  fields  are  actually  full  of  them,  and  we  discovered  many 
as  we  rode  over  them  on  our  horses,  and  many  others  we  bar- 
gained for  with  the  natives. 

My  next  visit  to  the  valley's  brim  was  to  Tezcoco,  the  ancient 
seat  of  learning,  —  the  "  Athens  of  Anahuac," — situated  across 
the  lake  of  the  same  name  from  Mexico  City,  some  ten  miles  in 
a  direct  line,  but  nearly  thirty  by  the  travelled  road.  My  com- 
panions on  this  occasion  were  the  Rev.  J.  W.  Butler,  Methodist 
missionary  to  Mexico,  and  Mr.  T.  U.  Brocklehurst,  an  English 
gentleman,  who  was  also  with  me  at  Teotihuacan,  and  who  has 
since  written  a  very  instructive  book  of  travels. 

Our  mission  was  to  rescue  an  imprisoned  native  preacher  who 
had  been  unjustly  incarcerated.  Him  we  found  in  jail,  an  elderly 
Indian,  with  as  mild  a  countenance  as  it  is  possible  for  one  of 
these  natives  to  have.  He  had  but  one  eye,  and  those  who  were 
instrumental  in  having  him  placed  in  durance  vile  had  taken 
advantage  of  this  fact  to  creep  up,  as  he  was  riding  along  one 
day,  and  shoot  at  him  from  his  blind  side ;  failing  in  their  object, 
they  hastened  off  and  lodged  a  complaint  against  him  —  for  not 
allowing  himself  to  be  shot  decently  and  in  order !  He  never 
had  carried  a  fire-arm  of  any  kind  in  his  life,  he  told  us ;  but 
there  he  was,  securely  caged,  and  some  of  his  parishioners  slept 
before  the  door  of  the  jail  every  night  lest  he  might  be  taken 
away  and  never  heard  of  again.  The  upshot  of  it  was,  that  he 
lay  in  prison  three  weeks  longer,  and  was  then  released  on  a 
promise  that  he  would  be  more  accommodating  when  shot  at 
another  time  by  good  and  faithful  Catholics.  Notwithstand- 
ing we  read  that  the  South  Sea  Islanders  have  discontinued 
the  practice  of  eating  the  missionary,  since  the  reported  dis- 
covery of  trichincB  in  some  of  them,  the  Mexican  hunter  is 
not  to  be  deterred  by  any  such  canard.     He  does  not  hunt  a 


AN   IDEAL   TEZCOCAN   GARDEN. 


TOLTEC   RUINS   AND   PYRAMIDS.  489 

missionary  for  his  meat,  but  from  love  of  the  sport,  and  the 
strong  arm  of  the  government  alone  exerts  a  repressive  influ- 
ence over  him. 

VV^e  were  in  Tezcoco,  that  home  of  early  kings,  one  of  the 
three  seats  of  power  in  Anahuac  at  the  beginning  of  the  fif- 
teenth century.  A  mile  or  two  from  town,  the  place  is  pointed 
out  whence  Cortes  launched  his  brigantines,  at  the  investment 
of  the  Aztec  capital.  At  the  period  of  his  coming  there  were 
greater  pyramids  and  richer  palaces,  and  perhaps  more  ex- 
tensive gardens,  than  in  the  city  ruled  by  Montezuma  himself. 
Remains  now  exist  here  of  three  large  pyramids,  or  temples, 
masses  of  adobe  brick  intermixed  with  shards  of  pottery  and 
fragments  of  sculptured  stones.  Only  just  before  our  arrival, 
a  gentleman  from  Chicago,  Captain  Evans,  brought  to  the  no- 
tice of  the  world  a  carved  stone  of  goodly  dimensions,  which 
had  been  found  in  one  of  the  adobe  mounds  a  few  months  pre- 
viously. Over  the  gateway  to  the  garden,  adjoining  the  old 
church,  were  three  hideous  idols,  and  a  search  throughout  the 
wretched  town  which  now  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient 
metropolis  would  reveal  many  a  relic  of  the  departed  Tezcocans. 
But  little  business  is  done  here  now,  since  the  lake  has  left  Tez- 
coco miles  inland,  and  a  few  tiendas  and  one  fonda  comprise 
shops  and  hotels ;  but  the  people  are  well  disposed  towards  a 
stranger,  and  one  can  secure  tolerable  lodging  at  the  "  Mace- 
donia," and  Mexican  meals  at  the  "Restaurant  Universal." 

Now  reached  by  the  narrow-gauge  branch  of  the  Morelos  road, 
Tezcoco  is  easy  of  access,  and  no  visitor  should  leave  out  of  his 
journey  this  once  famous  Acolhuan  city.  As  for  me,  I  revelled 
in  Tezcoco,  for  it  had  been  known  to  me,  through  Bernal  Diaz 
and  Prescott,  for  many  years.  What  can  be  finer  in  the  descrip- 
tions of  the  older  historian  than  that  of  the  arrival  of  the  timber 
for  the  brigantines  at  the  border  of  the  lake,  when  the  brave 
Tlascalan  Indians  marched  in,  several  thousand  strong,  with  the 
lumber  on  their  shoulders,  and  shouting,  "  Tlascala !  Tlascala ! 
Castilla!  Castilla !  "  for  the  space  of  half  a  day?  And  here, 
too,  was  the  palace  of  Nezahualcoyotl,  the  King  David  of 
Mexican    history,   whose    halls    and    gardens    are    so     lovingly 


490  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

depicted  by  the  later  historian.  Where  \va.s  the  grand  palace 
erected,  and  where  that  temple  to  the  "  Unknown  God  of 
Causes"?  or  did  they  exist  solely  in  the  fertile  fancy  of  the 
Indian  chronicler,  Ixtlilxochitl,  himself  a  descendant  of  the 
monarch  of  Tezcoco  he  fain  would  magnify?  But  whether 
exaggerated  or  not,  there  was  sufficient  remaining  at  the  time 
the  Spaniards  came  here  to  excite  their  wonder ;  and  there 
are  ruins  enough  now  to  testify  to  an  ample  city  and  magnifi- 
cent buildings. 

"  Nezahualcoyotl's  royal  palace  measured  nearly  three  quar- 
ters of  a  mile  in  length,  by  half  a  mile  in  width.  Its  vast  courts 
were  not  wholly  occupied  by  affairs  of  state,  but  were  open  for 
the  reception  of  foreign  embassies,  and  as  retreats  for  men  of 
science  and  all  literary  culture ;  and  here  was  gathered  the  liter- 
ature of  the  past.  The  saloons  of  the  royal  wives  glittered  with 
walls  of  alabaster,  or  were  rich  with  gorgeous  hangings  of  feather- 
work.  These  opened  into  gardens  of  great  beauty,  enlivened  by 
fountains  and  the  varied  plumage  of  tropical  birds.  Like  Solo- 
mon, the  king  had  gathered  to  his  court  and  capital  specimens  of 
all  known  living  animals.  The  annual  supply  of  grain  and  fowls 
and  fruit  for  the  royal  tables  was  enormous.  In  the  midst  of 
this  luxury,  the  king  ruled  in  the  main  with  great  justice.  And 
according  to  the  superstitions  which  he  held,  he  might  be 
counted  an  unusually  religious  man,  as  well  as  a  philosopher 
and  poet." 

In  passing,  I  would  call  attention  to  some  modern  ruins,  not 
far  south  of  Tezcoco,  in  the  town  of  Tlalmanalco,  which  sur- 
pass any  remains,  in  the  former  place,  of  the  more  ancient 
palaces. 

Back  of  the  present  city  of  Tezcoco  and  at  the  foot-hills  of  the 
mountains  supplying  the  streams  which  fertilize  the  plain,  the 
wise  king  constructed  a  biien  retiro,  a  palace  and  a  garden,  and 
here  to-day  may  be  found  the  remains  of  vast  hydraulic  works, — 
an  aqueduct  passing  from  hill  to  hill  over  an  embankment  two 
hundred  feet  high,  a  bath  cut  from  solid  stone ;  and  in  former 
years  the  face  of  a  cliff  had  sculptured  on  it  what  was  thought 
to  be  an  Aztec  or  Toltec  calendar. 


TOLTEC  RUINS   AND   PYRAMIDS.  491 

Having  exhausted  the  treasures  of  the  town,  I  proposed  to 
Mr.  Brocklehurst  that  we  procure  a  guide  and  ride  out  to  these 
ruins  at  Tezcosingo,  said  to  be  less  than  two  leagues  distant. 
He  assented,  and  while  our  friend,  the  good  missionary,  was 
interviewing  the  municipal  authorities,  we  hunted  up  horses,  and 
soon  found  a  man  who  could  tell  us  all  about  it.  We  started ; 
but  our  usual  luck  attended  us,  for,  after  toiling  until  nearly- 
dark,  we  only  came  in  sight  of  the  hill,  our  guide  having  lost 
his  way.  It  was  a  most  vexatious  thing,  and  we  were  hardly 
repaid  by  the  view  we  got  of  the  famous  Lake  Tezcoco,  lying 
between  us  and  the  Mexican  capital,  the  one  like  a  burnished 
silver  shield,  the  other  with  walls  of  alabaster.  Our  adventures 
ended  by  a  midnight  ride  in  a  miserable  hack,  around  the  lake, 
to  the  station  at  Teotihuacan,  where  we  took  the  early  pulque 
train  for  Mexico. 


XXIV. 

TLASCALA,    PUEBLA,    AND   CHOLULA. 

AT  Apizaco,  a  station  on  the  Mexican  Railway,  you  leave  the 
main  line  and  take  a  branch  to  Puebla.  Your  ticket  has 
a  stamp  on  it  bearing  the  likeness  of  one  of  the  most  villanous 
faces  it  is  possible  for  man  to  wear.  I  suppose  it  is  that  of 
some  old  revolutionary  hero,  whom  the  Mexicans  have  shot,  and 
then  repented  themselves,  and  made  amends  in  this  way  for  the 
injury  done,  as  that  is  their  usual  custom.  At  the  small  station 
of  Santa  Anna,  you  leave  the  train  for  Tlascala,  —  not  the  town 
of  forty  thousand  inhabitants  which  Cortes  compared  to  the  most 
flourishing  cities  of  Spain,  for  the  entire  district  has  now  scarcely 
that  number.  Probably  not  more  than  five  thousand  people 
now  inhabit  this  ancient  town.  In  the  Plaza,  which  is  also  a 
very  pleasant  garden,  is  a  fountain,  the  brim  of  which  bears  a  long 
inscription,  stating  that  it  was  erected  by  a  grand  Virey  in  1646. 
Here  is  something  savoring  of  antiquity  at  the  very  start;  fur- 
ther research  will  take  us  back  to  the  very  beginning  of  Tlas- 
calan  history,  —  to  those  days  when  the  Spanish  soldiers  were 
honored  guests  of  this  very  town,  when  Montezuma  was  quak- 
ing with  fear  in  anticipation  of  their  arrival. 

In  the  municipal  palace.  El  Palacio,  are  four  paintings, 
bearing  names  which  the  student  of  history  will  recognize 
at  once  as  those  of  allies  of  Cortes,  after  he  had  left  behind 
him  the  hot  coast  region  and  had  entered  and  finally  won  to 
his  cause  the  valiant  little  republic  of  Tlascala.  They  are 
"true  and  faithful  pictures"  of  Vicente  Xicotencatl,  Don  Lo- 
renzo Mazicatzin,  Don  Gonzalo  Tlanexolotzin,  and  Bartolome 
Zitlalpopoca,  as  they  appeared  to  Cortes  in  15 19.  A  score 
of  idols  cumber  the  floor  of  the  chamber  containing  the  pciint- 


TLASCALA,   PUEBLA,   AND   CHOLULA. 


493 


ings,  on  the  walls  of  which  is  the  Titulo,  or  title  of  freedom, 
presented  the  Tlascalans  by  the  king  of  Spain,  besides  the  capote, 
or  cape,  of  the  first  Indian  chieftain  who  received  baptism  in 
New  Spain.  In  a  glass  case  is  that  war-worn  banner  of  Cortes, 
which  has  remained  in  Tlascalan  possession  ever  since  the  subju- 
gation of  the  Aztecs.  It  is  of  a  faded  tea-colored  silk,  rent  in 
many  places,  with  the  arms  of  Spain  in  the  upper  corner ;  the 
banner-staff  is  gone,  but 
the  pike-head  that  once 
topped  this  proud  em- 
blem remains. 

Above  the  town,  on  a 
little  hill,  is  the  very  old 
convent  of  San  Francisco, 
one  of  the  first  of  four 
erected  by  the  frailes,  in 
1524.  Its  roof  and  raft- 
ers are  great  beams  from 
Tlascalan  forests,  which 
produced  the  timber  for 
the  brigantines  used  at 
the  siege  of  Mexico,  but 
which,  like  the  builders 
of  those  boats,  have  dis- 
appeared, and  its  ceiling 
is  studded  with  golden 
stars.  Entering  the  cool 
sanctuary,  leaving  outside 
all   noise,  and  light,  and 

merriment,  I  find  that  more  than  one  hundred  paintings  yet 
adorn  the  walls  of  this  venerable  building,  one  of  which  bears 
date  Ano  1677,  and  the  finest  is  of  one  of  the  Spanish  queens. 
Securely  glassed,  we  see  fragments  of  the  bones  of  three  holy 
saints,  sent  from  Rome  in  1754.  Alas  that  these  relics  should 
have  survived  their  possessors,  and  have  fallen  into  such  sacri- 
legious hands  !  Everything  points  to  the  first  years  of  Spanish 
supremacy ;   even  the  old  bell,  hanging  by  precarious  clutch  in 


EL   PULPITO. 


494 


TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 


the  tottering  tower,  is  dated  1587,  and  has  on  it  a  figure  of  a 
conquistador  firing  his  arquebuse  into  a  tree,  beneath  which 
crouches  an  abject  Indian.  Inside  the  church,  we  are  reminded 
that  this  town  of  Tlascala  was  the  first  of  importance  to  give 


THE   FONT. 


in  its  allegiance  to  the  king  of  Spain,  and  that  its  claims  upon 
history  are  strong.  Here  we  stand  before  the  first  pulpit 
erected  in  Mexico,  — "  El  Primer  Pnlpito  de  Niicva  Espanay 
It  is  of  stone,  now  plastered  over  and  painted  in  imitation 
of  marble,  with   red    and    gilt  stripes.      The  inscription  on   it 


TLASCALA,   PUEBLA,   AND   CHOLULA.  495 

reads,  "  Agui  Tubo  Principio  el  Sto.  Evangelio  en  este  Nutvo 
Mundo."  Half  hidden  in  a  recess,  opposite  the  pulpit,  is  an- 
other object  of  still  greater  interest,  though  it  is  nothing  but  a 
hollowed  stone,  about  five  feet  in  diameter,  three  feet  high,  and 
a  foot  and  a  half  deep.  It  is  called  the  Fiiente  de  Maxicatzin, 
and  is  no-  other  than  the  font  from  which  the  great  and  loyal 
Maxicatzin  and  his  coadjutors,  senators  of  Tlascala,  were  bap- 
tized. It  is  not  a  matter  of  tradition  alone,  but  of  history,  that 
when  Cortes  retreated  with  the  remnant  of  his  army  to  Tlascala, 
after  that  disastrous  defeat  of  the  Noche  Triste,  the  Tlascalans 
received  him  with  affection,  instead  of  upbraiding  him  for  the 
loss  of  the  thousands  of  their  young  men  whose  lives  he  had 
sacrificed.  To  convince  him  more  effectually  of  their  sincerity, 
the  senate  of  Tlascala,  with  Maxicatzin  at  their  head,  presented 
themselves  for  baptism.  Let  the  inscription  on  the  Fuente  tell 
the  story:  "  Este  monumento,  cuya  autencidad  conserva  la  tra- 
dicion,  fue  la  fuente  bautismal  de  los  ultimos  Caciques  o  Scnores 
de  la  Antigua  Republica  de  Tlascala;   el  ano  de  1520." 

Night  fell  about  me  as  I  descended  the  hill  and  sought  the 
only  hotel  Tlascala  could  boast,  a  comfortless  meson,  merely 
a  square  surrounded  by  walls  enclosing  apartments,  —  such  a 
tarrying-place  as  suited  the  traveller  when  horses  and  diligences 
were  more  in  use,  and  all  could  be  stabled  within  sight  of,  and 
on  the  same  level  with,  himself.  Early  next  morning  I  started 
out  with  a  guide  for  the  church  of  San  Estevan,  two  miles  from 
Tlascala,  and  built  upon  the  site  of  the  palace  of  Xicotencatl, 
the  Tlascalan  chief  so  basely  slain  by  the  Spaniards  before  Tez- 
coco.  A  great  font  is  here,  made  in  1691,  and  an  old  painting 
of  the  baptism  of  the  chief  last  mentioned. 

In  my  walk  that  cool  morning,  I  enjoyed  very  much  the  ram- 
ble through  such  a  secluded  region,  where  we  met  only  a  few 
shepherd  boys,  armed  with  slings  and  stones,  driving  sheep  and 
goats,  and  some  children  going  to  school.  My  guide  climbed  a 
tree  and  threw  down  to  me  some  juicy  cherries,  and  led  me 
through  gardens  which  smiled  such  a  welcome  that  they  seemed 
to  breathe  only  of  peaceful  delights.  But  emerging  from  one 
of  these  gardens  into  the  highway,  I  suddenly  stumbled  upon 


496 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


a  cross,  —  a  black,  wooden  cross,  —  stuck  up  in  memory  of  a 
man  but  recently  killed.  The  frequency  of  these  crosses  rather 
dashes  one's  desire  to  penetrate  new  regions  in  this  land  of 
insecurity ;  — 

"  For  wheresoe'er  the  shrieking  victim  hath 
Poured  forth  his  blood  beneath  the  assassin's  knife. 
Some  hand  erects  a  cross  of  mouldering  lath  ; 
And  grove  and  glen  with  thousand  such  are  rife, 
Throughout  this  purple  land,  where  law  secures  not  life." 

From  the  province  of  Tlascala,  in  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth 
century,  was  taken  the  territory  set  apart  for  Puebla,  and  the 

city  founded  there,  in  1532, 
became  subsequently  more 
famous  than  the  original 
capital  of  the  plucky  little 
republic.  The  city  of  Pue- 
bla, to  which  I  made  my  next 
move,  contains  more  church- 
es and  convents  to  the  square 
mile  than  any  other  town  on 
this  continent,  —  more  places 
of  worship,  according  to  its 
population,  even  than  Brook- 
lyn. In  Mexico  City  every 
vista  of  every  street  is  ter- 
minated by  a  hill  or  moun- 
tain, blue  and  hazy  in  the  distance,  perhaps,  but  still  there,  to 
remind  one  of  the  works  of  nature  while  contemplating  the  works 
of  man ;  in  Puebla  every  vista  is  cut  short  by  a  church,  or 
chapel,  or  some  religious  edifice.  You  are  confronted  at  every 
turn  by  men  begging  for  the  Church,  beggars  with  flaunting  rags 
and  tin  cash-boxes,  which  they  display  before  your  eyes,  and, 
what  is  worse,  under  your  noses.  Priests,  wrapped  in  great  black 
cloaks,  form  a  goodly  proportion  of  the  pedestrians ;  from  some 
door  of  every  block  issues  the  sound  of  a  bell  calling  to  prayer, 
and  kneeling  crowds  everywhere  pay  homage  to  the  Virgin  ;  hat 
in  hand,  the  true  believer  passes  through  the  streets  with  head 


IN   THE   CONVENT. 


TLASCALA,   PUEBLA,   AND   CHOLULA.  497 

uncovered,  for  fear  he  might  pass  a  chapel  unobserved.  The 
pervading  tone  of  society  here  is  rehgious ;  httle  business  is  done 
here,  and  Httle  labor,  because  Sundays  and  feast  days  form  the 
greater  portion  of  the  week.  Sunday  is,  indeed,  a  general  mar- 
ket day,  and  devoted  to  buying  and  selling,  but  not  to  work.  It 
is  strange  to  find  such  a  contrast  to  Mexico :  there,  every  one 
does  as  he  pleases;  here,  he  must  devote  a  certain  portion  of 
his  time,  or  his  earnings,  to  the  Church. 

"  Pay  or  pray,"  is  the  inspiring  motto  the  holy  men  in  office 
here  have  nailed  upon  the  cross.  Successful  in  preventing  the 
main  line  of  railroad  from  passing  through  or  near  their  city, 
the  bishop  and  priests  have,  from  the  beginning,  kept  Puebla  as 
a  place  set  apart  from  the  active  life  of  the  world.  Rich  men 
give  of  their  substance  freely ;  poor  men  —  and  they  consti- 
tute the  great  majority — go  clothed  in  rags  that  the  Church 
may  be  benefited  thereby.  They  even  refrain  from  using  that 
freest  of  all  gifts  of  God  to  man,  water,  and  pass  from  childhood 
to  old  age  without  washing  face  or  hands,  for  fear,  perhaps, 
that  the  money  wasted  on  soap  could  better  be  devoted  to  the 
Virgin. 

Though  the  government  stripped  the  clergy  pretty  close 
in  its  various  decrees  confiscating  their  property,  and  reduced 
them  from  affluence  to  comparative  poverty,  yet  the  last  few 
years  have  seen  a  revival  of  their  prosperity.  At  one  time 
they  held  property  to  the  value  of  $144,000,000,  yielding  an 
income  of  $12,000,000,  a  great  portion  of  which  they  lost  under 
Juarez  and  the  liberal  rulers.  Silently,  but  surely,  they  have 
pressed  the  work  of  recovering  their  lost  property.  Though 
the  country  abounds  in  ruined  churches  and  convents,  yet  they 
are  principally  in  districts  thinly  settled,  where  the  people  are 
too  poor  even  to  keep  the  buildings  in  repair,  or  in  cities  where 
there  are  too  many  to  be  filled.  The  principal  churches  are 
showing  the  effects  of  a  revival  in  business ;  walls  have  been 
repaired,  new  towers  added  or  old  ones  built  upon,  the  altars 
freshly  painted,  railings  newly  gilded,  and  the  sacred  emblems 
and  images  polished  up  and  decorated.  Cautious  as  the  priests 
are  in  showing  their  fast  accumulating  wealth,  it  cannot  but  be 

32 


498  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

observed  that  they  are  again  becoming  what  they  were  before 
the  adverse  decrees  of  twenty  years  or  so  ago,  —  the  holders  of 
the  moneys  of  the  people,  especially  of  the  poorer  classes. 

But  their  confiscated  property?  They  are  rapidly  gaining 
back  a  goodly  portion  of  it,  or  its  equivalent.  The  average 
Mexican  is  superstitious ;  he  is  valiant  in  times  of  peace,  vain- 
glorious before  a  battle,  but  craven  and  knock-kneed  when  the 
time  of  trial  comes.  Consequently,  when  sick  and  like  to  die, 
he  will  probably  —  no  matter  how  he  may  have  apostatized  and 
fought  the  Church  —  send  for  the  priest.  Mindful  of  the  fact 
that  all  things  of  this  world  belong  to  the  Lord,  and  that  the 
Catholic  Church,  as  the  chosen  of  the  Lord,  possesses  a  lien 
upon  these  worldly  goods,  the  priest  refuses  to  administer  the 
sacrament  without  some  restitution.  If  the  dying  man  has 
bought  confiscated  church  property,  he  must  restore  its  value, 
with  interest,  or  if  he  has  even  owned  it  at  second  or  third 
hands,  and  fairly  paid  for  it,  he  must  pay  again  its  value  to  the 
Church  before  he  can  get  a  clear  title  to  heaven,  or  his  heirs  a 
title  to  his  temporal  possessions.  With  a  persistence  character- 
istic of  these  priests,  they  are  following  up  and  ferreting  out 
their  lost  effects ;  and  it  may  not  take  more  than  a  decade,  at 
farthest,  for  them  to  be  as  strongly  intrenched  as  in  the  palmi- 
est days  of  their  glory. 

The  great  cathedral  of  Puebla  is  not  so  large  as  that  of  Mex- 
ico, nor  has  it  the  merit  of  being  built  upon  the  site  of  an  Indian 
teocalli,  as  has  the  other;  it  lacks  some  years  of  being  as  old, 
also ;  but,  to  supply  all  deficiencies  of  this  sort,  the  priests  pro- 
mulgated the  story  of  the  repeated  visits  of  the  angelic  hosts. 
Yes,  right  here  was  the  last  recorded  and  verified  visit  of  those 
heavenly  messengers  to  the  inhabitants  of  this  sphere  of  ours. 
When  they  came,  why  they  came,  and  how  they  came,  is  it 
not  all  entered  in  ecclesiastical  records  and  sworn  to?  It  is. 
And  do  not  the  faithful  believe  it,  every  word,  and  do  they 
not  point  out  to  you  the  very  place  where  the  angels  roosted, 
the  very  towers  of  the  cathedral  they  came  down  to  assist  in 
building,  and  the  very  stones  they  placed  in  position?  They  do. 
As  the  workmen  slept,  the  angels  descended,  and  added  stone 


I'i'll.  ^'      il 


V  /''''    ft 


mmm  ■ 


m^mi^MMmm 


TLASCALA,   PUEBLA,   AND  CHOLULA.  50I 

to  stone  upon  the  great  towers.  There  is  a  miracle  in  this,  for 
the  priests  say  so ;  and  hence  they  gave  the  city  the  name  of 
Puebla  de  los  Angeles^  or  City  of  the  Angels,  which  it  bears  to 
this  day. 

The  cathedral  is  mainly  built  of  dark  brown  stone,  covers  a 
great  area,  and  is  being  enclosed  with  an  excellent  iron  fence, 
every  post  surmounted  by  an  angel,  and  its  face  ornamented 
with  a  cast  of  some  saint  of  the  past.  The  fagade  of  the  north- 
ern entrance  is  embellished  with  statues  and  medallions  in  mar- 
ble, and  the  mitre  and  keys  of  the  Pope.  In  the  north  face  of 
the  western  tower  is  a  clock.  The  main  entrance  is  in  the  west- 
ern front,  and  here  are  more  statues  in  various  niches,  sculp- 
tured saints  and  cherubim,  and  the  date  of  erection  of  the 
cathedral,  —  1664.  The  bronze  casts  that  face  the  stone  posts, 
and  the  angels  that  cap  them,  were  produced  at  the  foundery 
of  one  Marshall,  an  American,  who  had  been  here  forty  years 
or  more. 

If  you  wish  to  climb  into  the  towers,  you  must  enter  a  narrow 
doorway,  and  ascend  a  circular  stone  stairway  for  some  distance, 
when  you  are  stopped  by  a  porter,  who  demands  a  real,  and, 
this  paid,  he  rings  a  bell  for  another  man  to  let  you  in.  Both 
men,  with  their  families,  live  in  the  tower.  There  are  two  bell- 
towers,  one  above  the  other,  containing  the  great  bell,  stamped 
1729,  and  eighteen  others,  of  various  dates  up  to  1828.  An 
inscription  here  states  that  the  towers  were  erected  in  1678,  in 
the  reign  of  Carlos  II.,  at  a  cost  of  one  hundred  thousand 
dollars. 

The  top  of  the  cathedral  commands  the  entire  Puebla  valley, 
with  its  broad  green  fields  and  swelling  hills ;  domes  and  towers 
rise  everywhere,  and  glisten  from  every  hill-top,  many  of  them 
being  covered  with  glazed  tiles  that  reflect  the  sun.  Arid  plains 
alternate  with  verdant  fields.  Outside  the  city  walls  there  are 
not  many  houses  visible,  except  they  are  collected  in  pueblos 
or  villages,  and  the  haciendas  are  few,  the  farm  buildings  being 
concentrated  in  one  spot,  and  surrounded  by  high  walls.  Though 
the  view  on  every  side  is  charming,  with  billowy  plains  running 
south   and   east,  and  the   great  mountain,  Malinche,  rises  in  the 


502  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

north  and  overshadows  the  city,  our  gaze  constantly  wanders 
toward  the  west,  —  toward  the  twin  giants,  Popocatapetl  and 
Ixtaccihuatl,  crowned  with  pure  white  snow.  Between  them 
is  the  gap  through  which  Cortes  marched  when  he  first  ad- 
vanced upon  Mexico,  in  15 19,  and  which  I  penetrated  in  May, 
in  my  ascent  of  the  great  volcano.  Right  in  line  with  this 
mountain  pass,  with  an  extinct  crater  behind  it,  rises  the  world- 
famous  pyramid  of  Cholula,  its  domed  chapel  glistening  above 
its  cone  of  dark  green  trees.  To  the  east  is  the  road  to  Vera 
Cruz,  over  which  General  Scott  marched  when  on  his  way  from 
coast  to  capital,  after  the  battle  of  Cerro  Gordo,  and  before  his 
masterly  investment  of  Mexico. 

Just  outside  the  city  gates  is  the  fort  where  the  French  were 
repulsed  on  the  5th  of  May,  1862,  in  which  affair  the  Mexicans 
won  the  only  victory  which  they  ever  gained  over  anybody  but 
themselves,  and  which  they  celebrate  every  year  with  great  and 
joyful  demonstrations.  Below  is  the  zocalo,  or  public  square,  in 
the  centre  of  the  city,  with  the  cathedral  on  the  east  side,  and 
the  portales,  beneath  which  much  merchandise  is  sold,  on  the 
other  three.  Large  trees,  in  which  birds  are  constantly  singing, 
fountains,  music,  and  flowers,  make  it  a  pleasant  place  to  visit. 
If  any  one  should  follow  in  my  footsteps  and  visit  Puebla,  let 
him  secure  the  services  of  the  sexton,  and  wander  over  the 
vast  roof  of  the  cathedral,  and  climb  the  dizzy  steps  on  the 
outside  of  the  eastern  dome,  for  from  that  point  the  view  is 
magnificent. 

The  interior  is  as  gorgeous  as  that  of  the  cathedral  at  Mexico, 
and  the  grand  vista  down  the  long  nave  is  fully  as  effective.  The 
base  of  the  great  altar  is  beautiful  marble,  and  so,  apparently, 
is  the  whole  altar  dome,  as  well  as  the  fluted  pillars  supporting 
it;  a  bright,  though  rather  questionable  effect  is  given  to  these 
by  strips  of  brass  alternating  with  the  flutings.  Fresh  gild- 
ing and  paint  show  that  the  cathedral  is  in  good  repair  inside. 
If  you  will  sit  down  awhile  in  the  cool  room,  you  may  see  the 
priests  pass  in  procession,  marching  out  from  some  mysterious 
interior,  and  then  marching  in  again, —  priests  old  and  very  fat, 
and  old  and  very  lean,  priests  that  waddle  as  they  walk,  and 


TLASCALA,    PUEBLA,   AND   CHOLULA. 


503 


priests  that  stick  out 
necks  and  lips  in 
seeking  after  a  pos- 
ture of  humility. 

Puebia  was  once 
famous  for  the  riches 
of  this  cathedral,  and 
especially  for  a  great 
lamp  of  gold  orna- 
mented with  precious 
stones,  said  to  have 
been  worth  one  hun- 
dred thousand  dol- 
lars. This  most  val- 
uable treasure  was 
given  by  the  Church 
to  General  Miramon, 
who  represented  their 
party,  to  aid  in  repuls- 
ing Juarez,  and  was 
broken  up  and  sold 
to  various  parties. 
Here  you  will  see 
fine  specimens  of  that 
clear  alabaster,  or 
species  of  onyx, 
known  as  Puebia 
marble.  It  is  obtained 
from  the  quarries  of 
Tecalli,  six  leagues 
from  the  city.  Many 
different  ornaments 
are  made  from  it ;  it 
forms  portions  of  val- 
uable   buildings,  and 

is  even   so  translucent  as  to  be  used  for  windows,  in  a  small 
church  near  the  quarries. 


PUEBLA    AND   VICINITY. 


504  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

There  are  many  marble-workers  here,  and  along  the  river 
that  drains  the  city  are  no  less  than  fourteen  cotton  factories,  a 
woollen,  a  paper,  and  a  match  factory.  The  cotton  and  woollen 
cloths  manufactured  here,  though  generally  of  coarse  quality, 
find  a  ready  market  throughout  Mexico,  Railroads,  have  not 
disturbed  this  sleepy,  sanctimonious  old  city  greatly  yet,  but  in 
two  or  three  years  it  will  wake  up  a  little.  There  is  but  one 
newspaper  here,  and  no  news.  The  business  is  mainly  in  the 
hands  of  French  and  Germans,  who  jealously  regard  the  incom- 
ing Americans,  and  who  will  have  cause  for  that  feeling  in  a  few 
years,  when  the  coming  railroads  shall  pass  through. 

In  the  State  college  there  is  a  fine  library  of  old  books, 
principally  ecclesiastical,  and  very  valuable  ones  pertaining  to 
the  history  of  Mexico.  There  are  said  to  be  some  veritable 
paintings  by  Rubens  and  Murillo  in  a  private  collection  in  the 
city.  As  resorts,  morning  or  afternoon,  the  two  paseos,  the 
Paseo  Nuevo  and  the  Paseo  Viejo  —  the  new  and  the  old  walk  — 
are  delightful.  Near  the  former  are  the  sulphur  baths  of  San 
Pedro,  which  are  very  refreshing  and  medicinal,  and  close  by 
is  the  old  convent  of  San  Xavier,  partially  destroyed  during  the 
French  invasion. 

The  bull-ring  is  in  this  part  of  the  city,  and  is  in  use  every 
Sunday ;  one  day  it  was  for  the  benefit  of  a  small  church,  and 
the  next  Sabbath  it  was  in  honor  of  the  feast  of  "  the  sacred 
blood  of  Jesus."  The  markets  are  long,  low,  shingled  sheds, 
covering  platforms  of  stone  raised  about  two  feet  above  the 
pavement,  where  the  women  and  men  squat  with  small  speci- 
mens of  all  the  vegetables  grown  in  Mexico.  Prices  are  very 
low:  cabbages,  six  cents  per  head;  onions,  seven  for  a  tlaco,  a 
cent  and  a  half;  radishes,  six  for  the  same  amount;  eggs,  three 
for  a  medio,  six  cents;  frijoles,  four  cents  per  quart;  beef,  six 
to  eight  cents  per  pound;  crockery,  —  an  ordinary  pan,  three 
cents ;  a  jar,  a  tlaco  ;  a  ten-gallon  jar,  from  twenty-five  to  thirty- 
seven  cents,  etc.  In  the  shops,  articles  of  domestic  manufac- 
ture are  equally  cheap.  I  bought  a  lariat  for  two  reales,  while 
the  metates,  the  great  flat-faced  stones  upon  which  the  corn  is 
ground,  cost  only  from  four  to  eight  reales,  and  the  rolling-pins 


TLASCALA,   PUEBLA,   AND   CHOLULA.  505 

but  a  medio  each.  These  stones  are  quarried  in  the  volcano, 
forty  miles  away,  and  brought  here  on  the  backs  of  Indians  or 
donkeys.  One  can  estimate  the  value  of  labor  by  this,  for  one 
of  them  must  cost,  from  first  to  last,  a  week  of  work. 

I  enjoyed  exceedingly  my  stay  in  Puebla,  although  while 
there  I  was  in  a  constant  state  of  agitation,  owing  to  alarming 
telegrams  from  the  North  ;  for  it  was  that  memorable  first  week 
in  July,  1 88 1.  We  in  Mexico  at  first  only  received  meagre 
news  of  the  great  calamity  that  had  befallen  the  nation  in  the 
shooting  of  President  Garfield,  and  in  Puebla,  where  there  were 
not  half  a  dozen  people  who  could  speak  English,  there  were 
no  details  given  at  all.  The  Fourth  of  July  was  a  gloomy  one, 
to  me  at  least,  for  the  day  before  came  a  telegram  announcing 
that  Garfield  was  dead,  and  that  the  United  States  was  con- 
vulsed with  war.  It  was  nearly  a  week  before  the  true  version 
reached  me,  and  during  all  that  time  I  had  no  one  speaking  my 
own  language  to  converse  or  condole  with  except  a  young  Chi- 
cago merchant,  whom  fortune  had  thrown  into  Puebla  against 
his  will.  He  had  come  here  with  a  large  lot  of  improved  agri- 
cultural machinery,  including  the  latest  inventions  in  mowers, 
reapers,  threshers,  etc.,  in  company  with  several  other  Americans, 
to  instruct  the  natives  in  their  use.  His  companions  had  left 
the  country,  but  he  had  not  the  means  with  which  to  get  away, 
and  was,  to  use  his  own  expression,  "  in  a  frame  of  mind." 

"  It  is  just  a  holy  terror,"  said  he;  "these  people  have  just 
about  worried  me  to  death.  Here  I  've  been  here  more  'n  a  year, 
and  how  many  mowers  and  reapers  do  you  think  I've  sold? 
Well,  sir,  I  ain't  sold  one  !  These  Mexicans  are  just  a  caution  to 
snakes  !  Why,  they  come  here  and  get  one  of  my  machines,  and 
take  it  out  on  their  plantations  and  smash  it  all  to  pieces,  and 
then  say  't ain't  good  enough  for  'em.  And  the  worst  of  it  is, 
I  have  almighty  hard  work  to  get  the  pieces  of  that  machine 
back  to  the  shop.  No  machinery  is  good  enough  for  'em. 
Here  are  Mexicans  who  've  lived  all  their  lives  without  seeing 
an  improved  machine  of  any  kind,  and  who  've  ploughed  their 
land  all  their  lives  with  a  stick,  that  are  just  too  wise  to  learn 
how  to  do  anything. 


5o6 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


"  A  few  men  have  got  all  the  land,  and  they  keep  it.  The 
working  people  are  only  slaves,  the  best  of  them  get  only  a 
quarter  a  day,  and  find  themselves.  It's  no  wonder  that  every- 
body 's  a  thief  Why,  these  beggars  are  so  poor  that  they  never 
have  twenty  cents  with  'em  over  night.  Not  a  thing  is  wasted, 
the  last  bone  and  scrap  of  meat,  and  bit  of  old  rag,  is  carefully 
saved ;  why,  they  've  even  driven  the  buzzards  out  of  the 
country  !  A  vulture  would  be  ashamed  of  himself  everlastingly 
if  he  ate  and  lived  among  the  filth  these  Mexicans  do." 

It  happened  that  we  saw  some  vultures  sitting  on  the  trees  of 
the  Paseo  the  same  afternoon  my  Chicago  friend  conveyed  this 
information  to  me ;  but  he  insisted  that  they  were  imitations,  — 
that  a  live  one  could  not  exist  there. 

"  This  government,"  continued  he,  "  does  everything  to 
encourage  the  hacendado,  or  proprietor  of  large  estates,  to  hold 


M'/" 


MEXICAN   PLOUGH. 


on  to  his  large  tracts  of  land,  and  to  discourage  every  attempt  of 
a  stranger  to  locate  here.  There  was  a  Frenchman,  who  put  up 
a  flouring-mill  and  commenced  to  do  a  big  business.  The  mil- 
lers here  became  jealous,  and  the  next  thing  that  Frenchman 
knew,  the  government  clapped  a  tax  of  $200  on  each  set  of 
buhrs ;  and  now  that  man  's  just  settin'  in  his  ruins,  looking  wise. 
And  steal !  what  you  see  lying  about  here  that  these  people 
have  n't  gathered  in,  you  may  set  down  as  not  worth  stealing. 
They  're  on  the  lookout  for  something  all  the  time,  —  and  they 
generally  find  it,  too. 

"  Look  at  the  haciendas  all  over  the  country ;   they  are  like 
forts,  not  built  for  protection  from  Indians,  but  from  their  own 


TLASCALA,   PUEBLA,   AND   CHOLULA.  507 

people.  Every  night  the  great  gate  is  locked,  and  whatever  is 
behind  those  stone  walls  has  to  stay  in,  and  whatever  is  outside 
has  to  stay  out,  till  morning.  Everything  on  the  farm  is  taken 
in  under  cover,  not  even  one  of  those  old  wooden  ploughs,  pat- 
terned after  the  first  one  Noah  patented  in  the  ark,  is  left  in  the 
field ;  at  sunset  you  will  see  the  laborer  driving  home  with  the 
plough-beam  over  the  yoke,  and  in  the  morning  he  brings  it  out 
again.  If  one  of  our  American  ploughs  was  left  in  one  of  these 
fields  over  night,  it  would  be  taken  to  pieces  and  distributed  over 
the  country  in  forty  places,  and  half  of  it  pawned.  And  as  for 
a  harrow,  they  would  n't  leave  a  tooth  in  it ! 

"  Speaking  of  ploughs,  what  do  you  suppose  these  brutes  do 
with  one  of  our  Yankee  ploughs  when  they  get  it?  Why,  the 
first  thing  they  do  is  to  saw  off  one  handle,  and  make  it  as  near 
as  possible  like  their  old  wooden  ones ;  then  they  do  everything 
they  can  think  of  to  break  it,  and  fall  back  on  the  wooden  insti- 
tution which  they've  used  a  thousand  years.  It's  just  a  holy 
terror  !  Here  I  am,  with  a  stock  of  machinery  that  would  set  up 
a  first-class  establishment  in  the  States,  that  is  just  rusting  to 
pieces ;  and  these  people  are  only  waiting  till  I  'm  tired  out, 
when  they  expect  to  get  it  all  for  nothing.  When  you  've  been 
amongst  'em  a  year,  as  I  have,  and  have  seen  what  sons  of 
Satan  they  really  are,  you  '11  change  your  mind  about  'em.  You 
tourists,  who  only  meet  'em  on  the  street,  and  see  'em  grinning 
and  bowing  and  shaking  hands,  and  embracing  you  as  though 
you  was  a  long-lost  brother,  and  telling  you  their  house  is 
yours,  and  their  wives  and  daughters,  and  everything  they  own, 
is  at  your  disposal,  you  only  see  one  side  of 'em.  I  've  seen  both 
sides.  I  've  tested  their  hospitality,  and  have  found  out  that 
there  ain't  a  bit  of  the  real  genuine  article  in  all  Mexico." 

The  horse  railways  of  the  city  and  district  have  proved  quite 
profitable,  a  single  short  line  within  the  city  limits  paying  three 
per  cent  a  month.  There  is  a  long  line  in  course  of  operation  to 
Matamoras  Azucar,  a  large  town  in  the  tierra  caliente,  distant  a 
day's  ride  by  diligence  to  the  southward.  It  is  a  branch  from 
this  that  runs  to  Cholula,  reaching  it  in  an  hour's  ride,  and  at  a 
cost,  first-class,  of  two  reales  ;   second-class,  fifteen  cents.    There 


5o8 


TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 


is  little  variety  of  scenery,  and  nothing  of  great  interest  until 
the  hill,  or  pyramid,  is  reached.  To  understand  the  historic  and 
traditional  value  of  this  pyramid,  we  must  refer  to  the  historian. 
After  mentioning  the  gods  of  the  ancient  Mexicans,  he  says : 
"  A    far    more    interesting   personage   in  their    mythology   was 

Ouetzalcoatl,  god  of 
the  air,  a  divinity  who, 
during  his  residence  on 
earth,  instructed  the 
natives  in  the  use  of 
metal,  in  agriculture, 
and  in  the  arts  of  gov- 
ernment  Ouet- 
zalcoatl incurred  the 
wrath  of  one  of  the 
principal  gods,  and  was 
obliged  to  quit  the 
country.  On  his  way 
he  stopped  at  the  city 
of  Cholula,  where  a 
temple  was  dedicated 
to  his  worship,  the 
massy  ruins  of  which 
still  form  one  of  the 
most  interesting  relics 
of  antiquity  in  Mex- 
ico." 

The  car  stops  at  the 
foot  of  this  monument 
of  the  past,  but  you 
might  need  to  be  told  what  it  was,  if  you  had  formed  any  precon- 
ceived ideas  of  it  from  reading  in  volumes  of  authors  who  have 
never  seen  it.  At  present  it  is  not  a  true  pyramid,  and  so  many 
years  have  elapsed  since  its  construction  that  it  appears  scarcely 
more  than  a  natural  elevation,  or  a  hill  that  has  been  squared  in 
places  and  levelled  at  the  top.  But  the  evidence  of  its  artificial 
construction   is  plain  enough   to  any  one  who  will  thoroughly 


QUETZALCOATL. 


TLASCALA,    PUEBLA,    AND    CHOLULA.  509 

examine  it,  for  he  will  find  sun-baked  bricks  and  mortar  where- 
ever  any  portion  has  been  exposed.  Whether  these  bricks  form 
the  entire  structure  is  an  important  question  for  archaeologists  to 
answer ;  the  only  way  to  settle  it  is  by  driving  a  tunnel  beneath  it, 
at  the  base,  from  one  side  to  the  other.  Various  attempts  have 
been  made,  by  excavating,  but  have  not  resulted  in  penetrating 
much  beyond  the  surface ;  on  all  sides,  however,  are  seen  these 
great  bricks,  and,  until  the  tunnel  is  run  beneath  it,  we  must 
assume  that  the  entire  structure  is  artificial,  and  not  a  natural 
hill  faced  with  brick.  Its  height  is  nearly  two  hundred  feet, 
and  at  the  summit  is  a  church,  reached  by  steps  built  into  the 
irregular  sides  of  the  hill,  the  path  winding  up  the  western  slope, 
past  perpendicular  ranges  of  adobe,  beneath  various  pepper 
trees,  and  through  green  bits  of  pasture  which  cover  the  ancient 
playgrounds  of  the  Cholulans. 

In  the  cutting  of  a  new  road,  at  one  time,  a  square  chamber 
was  revealed,  it  is  said,  built  of  stone,  with  a  roof  of  cypress 
beams,  and  containing  some  idols  of  stone,  the  remains  of  two 
bodies,  and  several  painted  vases.  Humboldt  gives  this  pyramid 
the  same  height  as  that  of  the  Pyramid  of  the  Sun,  at  Teotihua- 
can,  and  says  it  is  three  metres  higher  than  that  of  Mycerinus, 
or  the  third  of  the  great  Egyptian  pyramids  of  the  group  of 
Djizeh.  Its  base,  however,  is  larger  than  that  of  any  hitherto 
discovered  by  travellers  in  the  Old  World,  and  is  double  that  of 
the  Pyramid  of  Cheops.  It  is,  doubtless,  as  he  claims,  en- 
tirely a  work  of  art,  but  it  is  celebrated  more  for  its  breadth  of 
base  than  its  height. 

Its  situation  on  the  Mexican  table  land  is  at  a  distance  of 
seventy  miles  south-southeast  of  the  city  of  Mexico,  and  at  an 
elevation  of  6,912  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Humboldt, 
who  used  simply  a  barometer,  gives  its  height  as  164  feet; 
while  the  measurements  of  some  officers  of  the  American  army, 
made  by  means  of  the  sextant,  determined  its  true  height  to  be 
204  feet,  and  its  base  i,c6o.  The  breadth  of  its  truncated  apex 
is  165  feet,  and  here,  where  the  ancients  had  erected  a  shrine  to 
Quetzalcoatl,  —  "  God  of  the  Air,"  or  the  "  Feathered  Serpent," 
—  the  Spaniards  later  built  a  church  under  the  patronage  of  the 


510  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

Virgen  de  los  Rcmedios.  This  church  is  in  excellent  repair,  the 
interior  beautifully  frescoed  and  gilded,  and  the  votive  offerings 
that  adorn  the  walls  are  many  of  them  new,  and  show  that  the 
people  still  retain  their  faith  in  the  Virgin  of  this  shrine. 

Rising  from  the  centre  of  the  fertile  and  extensive  plain  of 
Cholula,  this  ancient  pyramid,  with  its  modern  capstone,  can  be 
seen  from  the  distance  of  many  a  league.  Most  beautiful  is  the 
landscape  spread  out  at  its  base !  long,  level  fields  of  corn  and 
maguey  are  on  every  side ;  villages  of  low  mud  huts  rise  hardly 
above  the  tops  of  the  corn,  so  humble  the  first  and  so  rank  and 
luxuriant  the  last.  Conspicuous  here  are  the  churches,  that 
tower  like  giants  among  pygmies  above  the  lonely  cabins,  adorn 
every  hill,  and  claim  attention  on  every  side.  They  are  the 
parasites  that  have  sapped  this  fair  land  of  its  life-blood,  —  have 
gathered  to  themselves  the  wealth  of  the  natives,  and  kept  the 
country  poor  and  wretched  for  three  hundred  years.  Before 
Cortes  drew  the  accursed  trail  of  his  army  along  this  beauti- 
ful country,  Cholula,  it  is  related,  possessed  a  population  of 
forty  thousand  souls;  now  the  little  village  scarce  numbers 
six  thousand.  In  his  second  letter  to  Charles  V,,  Cortes  de- 
scribes the  town  as  containing  twenty  thousand  houses  and  four 
hundred  "  mosques,"  or  temples.  Gone  are  the  magnificent 
temples  and  sculptures  that  adorned  its  site ;  the  books  that  re- 
corded their  traditions  were  destroyed  by  order  of  the  Spanish 
priests,  and  only  the  ruins  of  their  mighty  teocalli,  with  the 
paltry  and  contemptible  temple  of  the  conquerors,  perched  like 
the  parasitic  mistletoe  on  the  rugged  oak,  remain  to  attest  their 
greatness. 

The  village  of  Cholula  lies  crouched  at  the  base  of  the  pyra- 
mid. The  largest  of  its  religious  edifices  is  the  convent,  more 
than  two  hundred  years  old ;  in  its  spacious  court  several 
thousand  men  could  be  quartered ;  it  has  shared  the  fate  of 
many  another  of  its  order,  and  has  been  neglected,  perhaps 
confiscated,  but  is  now  being  again  brought  into  use.  Perhaps 
I  should  not  have  noticed  this,  had  it  not  been  for  a  severe  rap 
these  Catholics  have  administered  upon  Protestant  knuckles,  in 
the  shape  of  four  large  paintings  in  the  chapel.     The  first  rep- 


TLASCALA,   PUEBLA,   AND   CHOLULA. 


511 


resents,  by  a  painting  twenty  feet  square,  the  martyrdom  of  St. 
Nicholas  and  eighteen  companions  by  the  Calvinistic  Protes- 
tants of  Holland,  on  the  9th  of  July,  1576,  "for  defending  the 
bodily  presence  of  Christ " ;  canonized  by  Pius  IX.  on  the  29th 
of  July,  1867.  Two  more  pictures  are  of  two  parties  of  saints, 
who  were  murdered  in  1597  by  the  Japanese,  and  canonized 
in   1862;    one  of  these  was  the  "  Protomartir  Mexicano,"  San 


PYRAMID   OF   CHOLULA. 


Felipe  of  Jesus,  with  twenty-two  companions.  He  is  the  patron 
saint  of  the  city  of  Mexico,  which  was  put  under  his  protection 
in  1629. 

Mexicans  generally  are  the  reverse  of  intrusive,  and  never, 
as  a  rule,  admit  you  into  the  sacred  privacy  of  their  fami- 
lies ;  but  a  party  of  ladies  from  Puebla,  who  had  come  down 
here  to  attend  mass,  and  have  a  little  picnic  at  the  same 
time,   made    my  acquaintance,   and   invited  me    to  join  them. 


512  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

They  would  never  have  done  so  had  I  not  excited  their 
curiosity  by  carrying  a  butterfly-net,  which,  as  it  was  the 
first  they  had  ever  seen,  prompted  them  to  speak  to  me, 
their  curiosity  having  overcome  their  timidity.  A  naturaHst, 
especially  one  hunting  for  birds  and  butterflies,  is  looked  upon 
with  pity  and  compassion,  and  these  ladies  shared  the  general 
impression, — that  a  man  who  went  about  with  a  gun  and  in- 
sect-net needed  looking  after,  —  and  took  me  under  their  care. 
It  was  the  ist  of  July,  and  they  were  going  to  celebrate  mass, 
and  if  I  would  go  with  them  to  church  they  would  later  accom- 
pany me  in  my  search  for  antiquities.  So  I  went  to  church, 
gun,  net,  and  all,  and  took  a  back  seat,  while  my  four  fair 
companions  knelt  at  their  devotions.  The  church  was  gayly 
decorated,  the  kneeling  figures,  draped  in  rcbozos,  were  pic- 
turesque, but  the  service  was  long  and  unintelligible ;  so  I 
took  advantage  of  the  absorption  of  my  friends,  and  slipped 
away.  I  wandered  all  day  through  the  fields  and  in  the  suburbs 
of  this  old  city,  and  met  with  no  one  who  ofiered  to  molest  me 
or  obstruct  my  path,  though  this  section  has  a  reputation  as  a 
rendezvous  for  robbers. 

In  truth,  as  mentioned  above,  the  Mexican  has  either  great 
respect,  or  great  contempt,  for  a  man  engaged  in  so-called  sci- 
entific pursuits.  A  certain  German  traveller  also  notices  this, 
and  mentions  how  it  aided  him  in  securing  the  passage  of  his 
effects  through  the  custom-house:  "  Este  cavallero  es  bota- 
nista,  cried  the  director,  giving  an  order  to  leave  my  things 
unmolested.  As  far  as  I  know  the  Spanish-American  nations, 
scientific  occupations  are  held  in  very  high  esteem  amongst 
them.  It  may  be  fairly  said  that  this  feature,  originally  belong- 
ing to  the  Spanish  nationality,  has  been  greatly  developed  and 
generalized,  as  to  the  colonial  population,  by  the  travels  and 
highly  scientific  researches  of  Humboldt." 

Be  this  as  it  may,  I  know  that  the  name  of  7iaturalista  has 
often  proved  an  open  sesame  to  places  I  should  not  have 
otherwise  had  the  privilege  of  visiting.  It  was  explained  to  me, 
by  a  friend  who  has  travelled  extensively  in  that  country,  and 
who  never  carried  anything  in  the  way  of  a  weapon  of  defence, 


TLASCALA,   PUEBLA,   AND   CHOLULA.  513 

that  the  Mexicano  looked  upon  a  man  in  pursuit  of  birds, 
insects,  or  antiquities  as  "  a  confounded  fool,  a  crazy  man,"  — 
or  tin  hmatico,  —  and,  as  they  never  kill  or  injure  such  a  crea- 
ture, whom  they  regard  as  harmless,  he  may  expose  himself  with 
impunity.  This  explanation  was  not  tendered  me  until  after 
my  return  from  my  first  Mexican  trip,  or  I  should  not  proba- 
bly have  felt  flattered  by  the  innocent  attentions  of  the  fair 
senoras  and  senoritas,  who  were  so  much  interested  in  an  Ameri- 
cario  carrying  a  gun  and  a  butterfly-net. 


33 


XXV. 

SIX  WEEKS   IN   SOUTHERN   MEXICO. 

^TT^HE  principal  town  of  a  broad  and  fertile  valley  running 
-^  down  from  Puebla  is  Tehuacan  de  las  Granadas,  noted  for 
the  abundance  of  its  grapes  and  pomegranates.  Before  the 
Spaniards  conquered  Mexico  it  was  one  of  the  most  cherished 
and  frequented  sanctuaries  of  the  Mexicans,  and  known  as 
Teohuacan,  or  dwelling-place  of  the  Miztec  gods.  Its  houses 
are  of  stone,  in  the  Spanish  style,  with  grated  windows  and  open 
courts  ;  its  suburbs  are  pretty  gardens  surrounded  by  green  fields 
of  alfalfa  traversed  by  vine-bordered  lanes.  Above  the  town,  a 
league  or  so  away  to  the  east,  is  a  range  of  hills,  the  Cerro 
Colorado,  famous  in  revolutionary  annals  as  having  been  held 
by  General  Teran,  an  insurgent  chief,  for  three  or  four  years ; 
a  congress,  even,  was  appointed  here,  and  a  commission  charged 
by  the  United  States  to  inquire  into  the  causes  of  the  revolu- 
tion of  1 8 10,  here  held  interview  with  that  body. 

A  diligence  runs  to  Puebla  daily,  but  with  little  patronage, 
as  a  narrow-gauge  tramway,  a  government  venture,  extends 
south  from  Esperanza  on  the  Mexican  Railway.  This  tramway 
is  well  built  and  economically  managed ;  the  cars  are  drawn  by 
mules,  and  connect  with  the  up  and  down  trains  of  the  road 
from  coast  to  capital.  Nearly  all  the  railway  lines  of  Mexico 
are  mainly  north  of  the  capital,  connecting  it  with  the  United 
States,  though  in  very  truth  the  government  is  now  most  anxious 
to  extend  its  system  southward.  But  no  American  was  found 
bold  enough  to  undertake  such  a  venture,  requiring  vast  capital 
and  consummate  engineering  skill  for  its  development,  until 
the  right  man  appeared,  finally,  in  the  person  of  our  great  and 
highly-honored  Ex-President,  General  Grant.     He  has  engaged 


SIX    WEEKS   IN    SOUTHERN   MEXICO.  515 

to  continue  the  Mexican  system  southward  to  Tehuantepec, 
even  perhaps  to  Guatemala,  and  beyond,  to  South  America. 

It  was  to  investigate  the  resources  of  the  region  to  be  trav- 
ersed by  the  "  Mexican  Southern  "  railroad,  that  my  companions 
and  myself  undertook  a  trip,  horseback  and  muleback,  that  ex- 
tended eventually  over  a  thousand  miles,  and  through  the  most 
fertile  portions  of  the  great  State  of  Oaxaca. 

It  was  a  Sunday  on  which  we  arrived  at  Tehuacan,  and  every- 
body was  astir ;  for  a  bull-fight  was  in  progress,  most  of  the 
stores  were  closed  in  consequence,  and  the  sermons  of  the  con- 
scientious priests  held  over  till  evening.  So  we  stopped  for  the 
night  at  the  Hotel  Ferrocarril,  and  there  commenced  a  prelimi- 
nary skirmish  with  fleas,  that  was  kept  up,  with  more  or  less  loss 
of  blood  on  either  side,  for  a  month.  The  next  morning,  which 
was  clear,  cold,  and  starlit,  we  sallied  forth  from  the  hotel, 
lighted  into  the  diligence  by  flaming  torches  of  tarred  rope. 
Daylight  showed  us  a  dry,  almost  barren  plain,  descending 
rapidly  in  the  direction  we  were  going,  with  haciendas  and  vil- 
lages in  sight  far  away  under  the  hills.  We  changed  mules, 
putting  on  eight  fresh  animals,  at  the  hacienda  of  Nopala,  and 
got  breakfast,  towards  noon,  at  a  town  of  two  houses,  called 
Venta  Salada.  We  encountered  great  crowds  of  Indians  here, 
all  going  to  work.  We  met  them  all  day,  intent  on  the  same 
mission  —  of  going  to  work,  —  but  which  they  never  seemed  to 
reach.  In  fact,  there  did  not  seem  to  be  any  to  do ;  no  fields  to 
cultivate,  —  at  least  within  our  vision,  —  and  no  wood  to  cut, 
or  charcoal  to  burn.  The  road  was  all  the  way  descending, 
and  most  horrible  to  travel,  the  coach  first  on  end,  then  on  its 
side.  The  whip,  with  its  twenty  feet  of  lash,  trailed  at  the  side 
like  a  great  snake,  which  now  and  again  leaped  forth  and  stung 
the  mules  to  active  efl"ort.  Hills  and  valleys  were  covered  \vith 
thorny  acacias  and  cacti,  and  no  other  vegetation  occurred  for 
the  trip,  except  where  a  rare  brook  was  found,  or  a  small  canal 
led  the  water  to  a  narrow  valley.  About  noon  of  that  hot  and 
stifling  day  we  passed  a  great  stone  post  that  marked  the  limits 
of  the  State  of  Oaxaca,  and  entered  the  town  of  San  Antonio 
Nanahuantepec,  which  had  nothing  in  it  so  alarming  as  its  name. 


5i6 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


Here  occurred  a  great  fight  between  Porfirio  Diaz  and  the 
French,  in  1863,  in  which  Diaz  was  badly  whipped.  The  village, 
a  few  adobe  huts  with  thatched  roofs,  seems  to  have  suffered  se- 
verely, the  walls  of  some  old  buildings  being  well  peppered  with 
bullet-holes.  We  were  reminded  that  we  were  in  the  earthquake 
region  by  the  church  bell  being  housed  beneath  a  thatched  tower 

by  the  side  of  the  building.  The 
vegetation  here  is  tropical ;  narrow 
lanes  run  between  banks  of  vines 
and  bananas,  and  there  is  an  im- 
mense field  of  sugar-cane  in  the 
valley  below.  Under  the  hills  in 
the  distance  was  pointed  out  to  us 


HEDGES    OF   CACTUS. 


the  town  of  Teotitlan  del  Camino,  where,  some  twenty  years 
ago,  the  Liberal  General  Mexia  (whom  we  met  in  Tehuacan,  a 
fine  old  gentleman)  was  defeated  by  the  clerical  party.  This 
section  fairly  bristles  with  revolutionary  points.  It  would  seem 
that  the  people  wished  to  utilize  its  worthless  territory  somehow, 
and  so  put  up  a  fight  at  every  available  place.  To  reflect  how 
the  Mexicans  have  stamped  over  this  desert  region,  for  the  ex- 
press purpose  of  killing  one  another  and  kicking  one  another 
out,  reminds  one  of  the  man  who  fenced  in  a  stony  piece  of 
ground,  —  so  that  his  cattle  should  not  get  in  and  starve  to  death. 


SIX   WEEKS   IN   SOUTHERN   MEXICO.  517 

After  a  mile  or  two  through  cultivated  fields,  we  again  took 
to  the  hills,  and  jolted  up  and  down  through  the  same  eternal 
stretches  of  cactus.  These  were  of  every  shape  and  variety, 
chiefly  of  the  Candelabrum  species,  some  of  them  full  thirty  feet 
in  diameter.  The  very  expressive  name  of  this  cactus  is  organo, 
or  the  organ,  since  it  grows  straight  up  with  fluted,  hexagonal 
columns,  and  when  many  of  them  are  together  has  a  faint  resem- 
blance to  an  organ  with  its  pipes.  Hedges  are  made  of  them 
which  are  very  durable  and  easily  induced  to  thrive.  The  cacti 
are  not  wholly  worthless,  as  jackasses  feed  on  them  when  in 
straits  for  food.  Certain  species  bear  edible  fruit,  and  mules  and 
donkeys  find  within  them  reservoirs  of  water,  and  even  the  goat 
will  not  hesitate  to  exchange  for  them  his  favorite  fodder. 

The  only  hacienda  after  San  Antonio  was  Ayotla,  a  small  one, 
some  four  leagues  distant.  After  this  we  passed  San  Juan  de  los 
Cues,  four  leagues  from  the  end  of  the  diligence  route,  where  is  a 
collection  of  huts  and  the  finest  trees  we  saw  anywhere.  This 
place  is  in  a  pass  between  high  cliffs,  and  takes  its  name  from 
some  artificial  mounds,  one  of  which  is  very  prominent  on  the 
right  of  the  pass.  Beyond  this  we  drove  down  the  river  basin, 
crossing  a  broad  stream  several  times,  and  drove  into  Techo- 
mavaca  at  five,  having  been  fourteen  hours  in  the  diligence, 
through  a  hot,  weary  day.  Techomavaca  may  be  taken  as  a 
type  of  a  Mexican  country  village,  built  out  of  raw  material, 
straw  and  mud,  in  the  form  of  a  square;  the  latter,  indeed,  is 
about  all  there  is ;  it  comprises  nine  tenths  of  the  town,  with  a 
narrow  rim  of  houses  and  huts.  It  must  have  been  a  Mexican 
general  who,  commanding  a  force  of  one  man,  told  him  to  form 
himself  into  a  hollow  square,  for  that  is  the  aim  and  end  of  all 
builders  in  this  country.  Techomavaca,  says  an  old  writer,  is  an 
Hispano-Indian  word,  meaning,  "  The  cow  will  eat  thee."  We 
found  here  four  horses  and  a  mule,  which  had  been  telegraphed 
for  to  Oaxaca,  and  sent  up  to  meet  us.  They  were  very  small 
and  scraggy,  but  tough  and  lively,  and  we  mounted  them  at 
five,  sharp,  the  next  morning. 

Leaving  the  town,  we  bade  adieu  to  all  refreshing  vegetation, 
and,  after  crossing  a  broad  river  with  several  channels,  entered 


5l8  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

a  landscape  similar  to  that  of  the  day  before,  —  red  sandstone 
hills,  yielding  nothing  but  cacti  and  nopals.  There  was  some 
grand  scenery  as  we  reached  the  Rio  Grande,  where  cliffs,  three 
hundred  feet  high,  towered  above  our  heads.  It  grew  hot  as 
the  sun  got  up  and  had  a  square  look  at  us,  and  the  dry  land- 
scape of  rocks  and  cacti  seemed  to  sizzle  in  the  heat.  At  a 
small  hut  we  got  a  drink  of  mescal  and  some  tortillas,  and  a 
league  farther  on  passed  three  other  shanties  with  native  rum, 
or  licor  del  pais  y  for  sale. 

Toward  midday  a  great  field  of  sugar-cane  enlivened  the 
scenery,  occupying  a  narrow  valley  made  fertile  by  irrigation, 
and  after  that  appeared  the  large  sugar-works  of  the  estate  of 
Guendolain,  with  coco  and  fruit  trees  grouped  about  them.  The 
hospitable  proprietor  invited  us  to  take  breakfast  with  him,  for 
he  was  a  Mexican,  and  consequently  generous  to  a  stranger. 
This  hacienda  occupies  the  best  portion  of  the  only  cultivable 
land  in  this  region.  It  is  the  lowest  point  reached  on  the  trail, 
and  so  hot  that  the  people  say  they  would  rather  pass  through 
purgatory  than  through  the  vale  of  Guendolain. 

The  afternoon  was  passed  in  threading  the  same  bad  roads, 
and  narrow,  gullied  trails,  and  at  its  close  we  reached  the  town 
of  Dominguillo,  the  largest  between  Tehuacan  and  Oaxaca,  and 
containing  less  than  fifty  families,  housed  for  the  most  part  in 
bamboo  huts.  There  was  a  meson  here,  or  house  for  the  enter- 
tainment of  man  and  beast.  The  rooms  all  opened  into  a  corri- 
dor, with  rarely  a  single  window,  and  contained  each  two  hard 
board  beds,  a  chair  perhaps,  and  an  abundance  of  fleas.  An 
amateur  bull-fight  was  in  progress  when  we  arrived,  and  all  the 
inhabitants  were  indulging  in  a  fiesta,  in  honor  of  some  saint. 
A  small  cattle-pen  was  turned  into  a  bull-ring,  and  a  calf  was 
let  loose  to  be  tormented  by  the  boys  with  sticks  and  sarapes. 
Later  on,  a  bull  was  driven  in,  girths  fastened  about  him,  and  a 
man  mounted  on  his  back.  The  assembled  men  then  goaded 
him,  and  he  fought  them  fiercely,  trying  at  the  same  time  to  get 
rid  of  his  burden.  Finally,  becoming  frightened,  the  bull  bolted 
for  the  bars,  and  got  half-way  through,  but  the  men  pulled  him 
back  and  incited  him  to  fresh  charges.     When  his  spirits  failed, 


SIX    WEEKS   IN   SOUTHERN  MEXICO.  519 

they  resorted  to  a  novel  expedient.  A  man  bit  his  tail !  It  had 
the  required  effect,  —  the  bull  let  fly  a  kick  that  sickened  that 
unhappy  man,  dashed  at  the  bars  again,  and  escaped. 

Crowds  of  dirty  women  surrounded  the  fences,  and  a  dozen 
drunken  musicians  drew  doleful  strains  from  battered  instru- 
ments. Now  and  then,  some  ragged  boy  set  off  a  rocket, — 
the  Mexicans  always  send  off  their  fireworks  by  daylight,  — 
and  everybody  was  industriously  engaged  in  getting  drunk. 
They  lay  outside  all  night  in  stupid  inebriety,  all  —  as  one  of 
them  told  us  —  "  for  the  glory  of  God  !  "  and  we  passed  them 
next  morning  as  we  set  off  at  daylight.  There  was  an  elevated 
platform,  with  seats  for  the  elite  and  fashion,  —  a  dozen  or  so  of 
Indian  ladies,  who,  we  could  not  fail  to  notice,  wore  no  stockings, 
though  they  spread  most  gorgeous  sunshades. 

Half  the  day  previous  we  had  seen  a  white  line  drawn  across 
these  red  hills,  which  was  the  road  we  reached  that  morning. 
It  seemed  interminable,  for  it  climbed  from  hill  to  hill,  turn- 
ing and  twisting,  but  ever  ascending.  Large  gangs  of  Indians 
were  at  work  trying  to  render  the  roads  passable  for  a  carriage 
for  General  Diaz,  who  was  soon  to  be  installed  Governor  of 
Oaxaca.  As  such  a  vehicle  had  never  yet  passed  over  those 
roads,  it  was  anticipated  that  the  noble  General  would  experi- 
ence a  lively  jolting.  As  we  reached  somewhere  near  the  sum- 
mit of  the  higher  ridge,  after  long  hours  of  toil,  we  had  behind 
us  a  last  view  of  Orizaba,  its  cone  of  snow  rising  above  the 
mountains  and  over  the  long  interval  of  hills  and  valleys.  It 
is  a  speaking  commentary  upon  the  necessarily  tortuous  roads 
of  this  mountainous  country,  that  this  volcano  should  still  be  in 
sight  after  three  days'  travel. 

Four  leagues  from  Dominguillo  we  reached  a  pass  in  the  hills, 
locally  celebrated  as  the  spot  where  an  untutored  Indian,  with 
a  handful  of  men  to  help  him,  kept  at  bay  three  thousand 
French  troops,  by  mounting  a  few  cannon  at  a  point  that  swept 
the  road.  High  above  the  trail  rise  the  stupendous  cliffs, 
backed  by  high  hills  that  prevent  a  road  from  being  made  in 
any  other  place.  After  taking  breakfast,  in  a  small  Indian  hut; 
of  tortillas,  frijoles,  and  mescal,  eaten  off  the  dirty    floor,   we 


520  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

ascended  yet  steeper  hills  for  some  miles,  and  reached  Salomen, 
a  group  of  huts  in  the  centre  of  grassy  slopes  and  oak-covered 
hills.  As  the  hot,  dry  country  is  changed  into  the  warm  and 
moist,  the  ungainly  cacti  gradually  merge  into  beautiful  palms, 
and  the  landscape  is  charming.  After  three  days  and  a  half  of 
cactus-covered  hills,  the  sight  of  trees  and  grass  was  very  in- 
viting. The  country  had  completely  changed,  and  we  galloped 
through  extensive  oak  woods  for  many  a  league,  with  noble  views 
of  an  ocean  of  hills,  along  the  ridges  of  which  we  picked  our 
way,  to  a  place  called  Carbonera,  containing  solely  a  house  of 
dried  mud  and  a  cow-yard.  An  Indian  girl  was  asleep  on  the 
mud  floor,  with  a  naked  baby,  and  her  we  roused,  and  begged  to 
get  us  ready  something  to  eat.  After  cooking  some  eggs,  fry- 
ing over  some  frijoles,  and  warming  up  some  cold  tortillas,  she 
washed,  with  the  same  water  the  eggs  were  to  be  boiled  in,  some 
coarse  earthen  dishes  and  her  hands  at  the  same  time,  and 
then,  spreading  the  repast  upon  the  floor,  stretched  herself  out 
in  her  corner  and  snored,  while  we  fell  to  eating,  like  hungry 
men,  as  we  were.  One  of  our  tired  and  exhausted  carga  mules 
here  had  the  blind  staggers,  and  one  of  our  horses  went  lame. 

Leaving  this  place,  we  galloped  down  the  hills  into  the  valley 
of  Etla,  reaching  a  place  called  Huitzo  at  dark,  just  before  a 
thunder-storm  broke  over  the  hills.  We  were  now  in  the  terri- 
tory of  the  Miztec  Indians,  inveterate  enemies  of  the  Aztecs  in 
olden  times,  whom  they  always  slew  at  sight,  when  they  could. 
The  town  is  situated  at  the  head  of  the  valley,  which,  as  we  went 
southward  next  morning,  we  found  to  increase  in  area  and  fer- 
tility. Half-way  down,  it  is  crossed  by  a  line  of  artificial  hills, 
one  group  of  which,  known  as  Los  Cerritos  de  la  Pena,  we  visited. 
These  were  at  least  a  dozen  in  number,  conical,  oval,  and  quad- 
rilateral, within  an  area  of  a  few  acres.  We  examined  them 
carefully,  but  found  nothing  beyond  a  few  shards  of  pottery;  no 
implements  even,  though  ornaments  of  gold,  silver,  and  bronze 
have  been  discovered  here.  They  lie  near  the  town  of  Etla,  on 
the  eastern  foot-hills,  near  which  the  golden  throne  of  the  last 
Miztecan  king  is  said  to  be  buried.  Two  great  tribes  of  Indians 
occupied  this  valley  in  former  years,  the  Zapotecs  and  Miztecs, 


SIX   WEEKS   IN   SOUTHERN   MEXICO.  523 

who  fought  a  terrible  battle  near  this  spot,  in  which  the  latter 
were  beaten.  A  curious  fact  was  brought  to  our  notice  here, — 
that,  while  at  Huitzo  the  people  speak  the  Miztec  language,  in 
Etla,  only  four  leagues  distant,  they  speak  the  Zapotec. 

Bidding  adieu  to  our  courteous  guide,  Don  Jesus  Filio,  we 
reached,  after  hard  riding  along  magnificent  fields  of  corn, 
through  which  the  Etla  River  runs,  the  outskirts  of  the  city  of 
Oaxaca,  where  we  found  Don  Jose,  our  companero,  an  ex- 
colonel  of  artillery,  awaiting  our  arrival  at  a  cross-road,  whence 
he  escorted  us  to  the  Plaza  and  to  the  Hotel  Nacional.  There 
we  footed  up  our  first  week's  journey  and  found  that  in  five 
days'  diligent  travel  we  had  accomplished  but  two  hundred  and 
twenty  miles,  divided  as  follows :  by  tramway,  first  day,  thirty 
miles ;  by  diligence,  second  day,  sixty  miles ;  by  horseback, 
third,  fourth,  and  fifth  days,  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles. 

Guaxaca  (Oaxaca,  pronounced  Wahhdka),  says  a  writer  of 
nearly  three  hundred  years  ago,  "  is  a  Bishop's  Seat,  not  very 
big,  yet  a  fair  and  beautiful  City  to  behold,  which  standeth 
threescore  leagues  from  Mexico  in  a  pleasant  Valley."  The 
seat  of  this  ancient  bishopric  is  a  triple  vale,  a  trefoil  in  shape, 
with  the  capital  city,  Oaxaca,  at  the  stem.  From  the  north 
leads  in  the  valley  of  Etla,  with  its  broad  river  meandering 
through  a  billowy  sea  of  corn-fields.  This  river  turns  south  as 
it  reaches  the  city  and  runs  towards  the  Pacific,  through  the 
valley  of  Ejutla,  while  the  third  vale,  known  as  Tlacolula,  trends 
westward.  Whichever  way  the  eye  may  wander,  the  view  is 
bounded  by  hills.  The  city  itself  is  built  at  the  foot  of  a  hill, 
as  it  slopes  to  the  river,  a  broad,  flat-roofed  plain  of  stone  build- 
ings, above  which,  every  few  squares,  are  thrust  up  domes  and 
towers,  of  cathedral,  churches,  and  convents,  with  the  various 
plazas  indicated  by  dark-green  masses  of  trees. 

Each  valley  is  about  twenty  miles  in  length  and  from  two  to 
four  miles  broad,  and  from  the  sterile  hills  that  enclose  them  to 
the  lowest  depression  of  the  basin  the  soil  gradually  increases 
in  fertility.  This  valley,  or  conjunction  of  valleys,  if  not  the 
objective  point  of  the  Mexican  Southern  Railway,  is  at  least 
the  most  important  on  the  line.     It  is  the  centre  of  the  State, 


524 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


contains  the  richest  land  and  largest  sugar  plantations,  and  its 
city  is  the  most  considerable  south  of  Puebla  and  the  capital. 
The  valleys,  all  of  them,  present  a  delightful  blending  of  the 
vegetation  and  productions  of  different  regions,  for  the  high 
altitude  of  the  upper  lands  (5,000  feet)  combines  with  the  almost 

tropical  climate  in  such 
a  manner  that  the 
fruits  of  every  zone 
may  be  gathered  here, 
—  cotton  in  the  south- 
ern borders,  alfalfa, 
arnatto,  rice,  sweet 
potatoes,  cacao,  sugar- 
cane, beans,  pulse, 
maguey,  corn,  pota- 
toes, wheat,  vanilla, 
pecans,  almonds,  oran- 
ges, coffee,  —  in  fact, 
there  is  little  doubt 
that  the  whole  list  of 
tropic,  of  semi-tropic, 
and  of  temperate  fruits 
and  vegetables  may  be 
well  represented  be- 
tween the  southern 
and  northern  valleys.  It  is  claimed  that  the  hills  are  covered 
with  valuable  woods,  such  as  mahogany,  cedar,  rosewood,  royal 
palm,  and  an  infinite  number  of  plants  valuable  to  the  materia 
medica.  But  though  all  these  trees  may  have  been  indigenous 
here,  most  of  them  have  long  since  been  cut  down  and  de- 
stroyed ;  for  in  above  one  thousand  miles  of  wanderings  we  did 
not  see  any  extensive  forests  of  valuable  timber  or  cabinet 
woods. 

From  the  hills  immediately  above  the  city  of  Oaxaca  one  looks 
down  upon  as  fair  a  scene  as  he  could  wish,  —  upon  smooth  and 
verdant  fields  of  cane  and  corn,  dotted  with  white  stone  hacien- 
das and  with  Indian  hamlets  springing  up  at  the  base  of  every 


COFFEE. 


SIX   WEEKS   IN   SOUTHERN   MEXICO.  525 

hill.  About  the  villages  and  the  buildings  of  the  sugar  estates 
are  trees,  and  across  the  valley  of  Tlacolula  a  line  of  giants 
stretches  from  hill  to  hill;  but,  except  among  the  distant  sier- 
ras, you  cannot  see  any  not  planted  by  the  hand  of  man ;  there 
are  few  natural  groves  or  forests.  This  scarcity  of  trees  is 
doubtless  owing  to  the  fact  that  this  region  has  been  inhabited 
almost  from  time  immemorial.  To  this,  again,  we  may  trace 
the  thorough  cultivation  of  Southern  Mexico.  There  is  not 
a  valley,  vale,  or  hill  that  is  not  or  has  not  been  cultivated, 
wherever  there  is  a  chance  to  scrape  with  a  hoe,  or  prod  with 
a  sharpened  stick.  The  more  level  stretches,  the  great  basins 
filled  with  alluvium,  are  owned  by  rich  hacendados ,  or  land- 
owners, and  the  Indians  are  forced  toward  the  outskirts,  where 
the  hills  lap  over  into  the  valleys,  and  thence  they  carry  their 
little  gardens  and  fields  of  corn  up  toward  the  crests.  Not  a 
foot  is  left  untilled ;  not  a  rod  of  those  brown,  denuded  hills 
covered  with  a  few  inches  of  soil  that  is  not  occupied. 

It  was  an  agricultural  race  that  the  Spaniards  found  in  posses- 
sion of  Mexico,  —  a  people  that  had  held  and  tilled  the  soil 
for  hundreds  of  years  before  the  white  man  heard  of  the  New 
World,  —  not  a  savage  horde  that  subsisted  by  the  chase.  As  a 
consequence,  we  find  every  portion  of  this  southern  republic 
susceptible  to  the  influences  of  the  hoe  and  plough  carefully 
and  exhaustively  cultivated.  One  may  ride  through  leagues  of 
territory,  with  an  Indian  settlement  only  at  long  intervals,  and 
wonder  at  the  thriving  appearance  of  the  fertile  fields,  in  decided 
contrast  to  the  parched  and  barren  hills.  Two  things  seem 
strange :  first,  where  the  people  are  who  till  these  fields  so 
thoroughly;  and,  secondly,  how  they  can  cover  so  much  terri- 
tory by  day  and  occupy  so  little  space  by  night.  It  is  only 
when  an  immigration  agent  comes  along,  or  some  one  desiring 
to  secure  property,  that  one  obtains  a  conception  of  how  closely 
human  beings  can  stow  themselves.  A  village  of  one  hundred 
Indian  huts  may  contain  two  thousand  people.  And  no  one  of 
these  huts  would  be  considered  worthy  of  use  as  a  donkey-shed 
in  the  North.  But  let  it  be  noised  through  their  town  that  there 
is  any  movement  on  foot  for  introducing  immigrants  into  that 


526 


TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 


n^i^n^^^K 


GENERAL   MARKET,    OAXACA. 


section,  and  the  Indians  will 
pour  out  of  those  huts  like  a 
swarm  of  angry  bees  out  of 
a  hive.  It  will  seem  as 
though  there  was  at  least 
one  Indian  for  every  square 
foot  of  territory.  These  are 
the  objections  to  Oaxaca, 
and  to  all  Mexico,  as  a  resi- 
dence for  immigrants :  first, 
every  available  rod  of  soil 
is  owned  and  worked ;    sec- 


SIX   WEEKS   IN    SOUTHERN   MEXICO.  527 

ondly,  it  is  too  far  from  any  great  centre  for  an  outlet  for  pro- 
ductions; thirdly,  they  must  compete  with  Indians,  with  whom 
a  pair  of  trousers  is  an  unheard  of  luxury,  who  sleep  on  the 
ground,  eat  from  a  gourd,  and  work  for  twenty-five  cents  a  day. 

From  the  earliest  times,  Oaxaca  has  been  looked  upon  as 
El  Dorado,  the  traditional  land  of  gold.  The  chief  tribute  to 
Montezuma  came  from  the  sands  of  its  rivers,  and  the  Spaniards 
were  told  that  the  unconquered  Indians  living  there  guarded  vast 
and  unknown  treasures.  But  this  was  in  the  time  of  Cortes,  when 
the  conquerors  were  sending  out  in  every  direction  for  gold. 
Believing  it  to  be  what  it  was  described  to  him,  Cortes  arrogated 
to  himself  the  title  of  Marquis  of  the  Valley  of  Oaxaca,  and  the 
faith  in  its  riches  has  been  maintained,  though  without  suffi- 
cient reason,  to  the  present  day.  In  the  catalogue  of  its  natural 
wealth  are  included  silver,  gold,  copper,  lead,  iron,  slate,  and 
coal,  and  perhaps  quicksilver  and  precious  stones.  We  met 
here  several  very  intelligent  gentlemen  who  owned  mines  of 
both  gold  and  silver,  and  I  take  pleasure  in  here  recording  our 
indebtedness  to  Senores  Romero  and  Endner,  of  the  Oaxaca 
mint,  and  Don  Constantino  Rickards,  a  most  generous  and  hos- 
pitable Englishman,  who  has  lived  in  the  country  thirty  years, 
and  possesses  valuable  mineral  property. 

Antequera,  the  Beautiful,  was  the  ancient  name  of  the  capital, 
now  known  as  Oaxaca  of  Juarez.  It  contains  twenty-six  thou- 
sand seven  hundred  inhabitants,  of  which  number,  judging  from 
the  proportion  seen  at  church  and  in  the  streets,  more  than 
twenty  thousand  are  Indians.  Like  every  city  in  Spanish  Amer- 
ica, it  has  its  plaza,  or  central  square,  adorned  with  a  fountain 
and  shaded  by  trees,  with  seats  for  the  people  and  a  music-stand 
for  the  military  band.  Facing  the  plaza  is  the  cathedral,  with 
its  fagade  guarded  by  many  saints,  disposed  in  niches,  some  of 
whom  have  been  sorely  shaken  by  earthquakes,  that  were  once 
the  scourge  of  this  city,  and  may  be  the  cause  of  the  air  of 
general  decay,  or  rather  of  restoration,  that  pervades  the  place. 
There  is  scarcely  a  block  that  has  not  an  unfinished  building  in 
it;  and  as  to  the  streets,  they  seem  to  be  maintaining  a  per- 
petual and  running  fight  with  the  streams  that  plough  them  on 


528  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

their  way  down  from  the  hills.  Aside  from  deep  gutters  that 
cross  the  main  thoroughfares,  heaps  of  filth  and  refuse  obstruct 
the  way,  making  the  city,  as  it  appeals  to  at  least  two  senses, 
the  sight  and  smell,  more  objectionable  even  than  the  city  of 
Mexico.  The  houses  are  low  and  massive,  of  the  style  of  archi- 
tecture that  prevails  in  all  Spanish  cities  in  Mexico,  with  walls 
of  stone  and  grated  windows.  In  situation,  the  city  is  superb, 
commanding  the  three  grand  and  glorious  valleys;  and  perhaps, 
under  the  administration  of  General  Diaz,  it  may  attain  to  the 
acme  of  healthfulness  and  beauty  which  its  situation,  five  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  sea,  and  its  climate,  should  give  it. 

The  place  most  sought  by  us  when  in  the  city  was  the  plaza 
in  front  of  the  municipal  palace,  which,  on  Saturdays,  was  the 
resort  of  the  various  Indian  tribes  living  among  the  hills,  who 
came  in  and  took  undisputed  possession  of  it  and  the  adjacent 
portales.  The  Mexican  market-place  has  been  described  by  me 
in  previous  chapters,  but  I  cannot  refrain  from  again  alluding  to 
the  portales,  which  usually  surround  it.  If  there  were  any  that 
surpassed  those  of  Oaxaca  in  length  and  symmetry,  I  think  those 
of  Yucatan  are  entitled  to  honorable  mention.  Beneath  these 
arcades  the  affairs  of  the  huckster  and  small  dealer  are  generally 
carried  on  in  the  morning;  at  noon  their  shade  tempts  the  town 
vagabond  to  slumber  there,  and  at  night  they  afford  a  lurking- 
place  for  the  evil-minded  lepero. 

The  most  famous  building  here  of  recent  times  is  the  Institute 
of  Oaxaca,  in  which  college  were  educated  Diaz,  Romero,  Jua- 
rez, Mariscal,  and  many  other  Mexicans  who  have  had  a  widely 
extended  reputation.  It  exercises  its  beneficial  influence  over 
five  hundred  students,  and  the  natural  result  of  it  is  shown  by 
an  enumeration  in  the  city  alone  of  over  seventy  lawyers  and 
seventeen  doctors.  In  the  library  of  the  Institute  are  fourteen 
thousand  volumes,  some  of  note  and  rarity,  principally  the 
spoils  of  the  suppressed  conventual  establishments  of  the  State, 
The  favored  students  wander  about  cool  corridors,  and  in  a 
neat  little  garden  in  the  patio,  where  are  several  objects  of 
Indian  antiquity,  a  harpy  eagle,  and  brilliant  macaws,  which  lend 
an  added  interest  to  this  spot,  made  sacred  to  Mexican  youth  by 


SIX    WEEKS    IN    SOUTHERN    MEXICO.  529 

its  association  with  the  names  of  their  famous  countrymen  pre- 
viously mentioned. 

The  chief  of  our  expedition  was  provided  with  letters  to  all 
the  principal  men  of  Oaxaca,  and  while  awaiting  permission 
from  the  authorities  to  visit  the  Indians  of  the  sierras,  we  made 
a  side  trip  into  the  valley  of  Ejutla,  southward.  After  examin- 
ing the  little  known  ruins  of  Monte  Alban,  and  visiting  an  old 
convent,  where  the  patriot  Guerrero  was  shot,  in  1831,  we  ended 
our  journey  in  this  direction  at  the  town  of  Cuilapan,  formerly  a 
great  city  of  the  Miztecs,  and  containing  a  large  adobe  mound, 
in  which  copper  axes,  mirrors,  and  golden  ornaments  have  been 
found.  Even  now,  the  inhabitants  of  this  place  speak  the  Miztec 
tongue,  while  at  Zaachila,  a  near  town,  the  Zapotec  is  spoken, 
and  farther  up  the  valley,  nearer  Oaxaca,  is  a  small  colony  of 
Indians  whose  language  is  the  Aztec.  This  little  body  of  aliens, 
sandwiched  in  between  Zapotecs  and  Miztecs,  is  doubtless  a  relic 
of  the  great  Mexican  invasion  of  the  fifteenth  century,  when  the 
armies  of  Montezuma,  after  penetrating  as  far  south  as  Tehuan- 
tepec,  were  driven  back  by  the  allied  kings  of  the  country.  So 
rich  was  this  valley  at  the  time  of  the  Spanish  invasion  that  the 
soldiers  of  Alvarado  had  the  natives  make  for  them  spurs  of  solid 
gold,  which  were  worked  with  great  skill. 

Many  are  the  stories  told  here  of  those  early  times,  so  numer- 
ous that  half  a  volume  might  be  filled  with  them,  and  so  fasci- 
nating that  I  reluctantly  pass  them  by.  But  we  will  leave 
antiquities  and  traditions  for  a  while,  and  glance  at  an  ancient 
industry,  which,  originating  here,  has  made  this  region  famous  the 
world  over.  In  this  same  village  of  Cuilapan  we  found  ourselves 
in  the  original  home  of  the  cochineal,  where,  enclosed  by  hedges 
of  the  organo,  were  little  gardens  of  the  nopal,  or  cochineal  cac- 
tus. The  anciently  used  kermes,  or  "  scarlet  grain,"  was  replaced 
by  the  cochineal  insect,  which  furnished  the  brilliant  dyes,  crim- 
son and  scarlet,  after  the  conquest  of  Mexico  by  the  Spaniards. 
This  precious  dye  —  more  valuable  once  than  at  the  present  day 
—  is  obtained  from  the  dried  bodies  of  the  female  cochineal 
{Coccus  cacti),  which  feeds  on  the  leaves  of  the  Opuntia  cochinil- 
lifera,  and  other  cacti  closely  allied  to  the  prickly-pears,  and  called 

34 


530 


TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 


nopals  and  timas.  The  insect  is  so  small  that  it  is  calculated  that 
it  takes  above  seventy  thousand  in  the  dried  state  to  make  a 
pound.  It  always  remains  attached  to  the  spot  at  which  it  was 
hatched,  and  its  body  grows  rapidly  as  it  absorbs  the  juice  of 
the  cactus,  until  legs,  antennae,  and  proboscis  can  hardly  be 
distinguished  by  the  naked  eye.  The  female,  which  alone  pro- 
duces the  dye,  is  detached  from  the  leaf  just  prior  to  the  escape 
of  the  young  from  the  ^^Z,  when  she  contains  the  greatest 
amount  of  coloring  matter,  and  killed  by  being  plunged  into 
boiling  water,  or  placed  with  heaps  of  others  in  hot  ovens. 

Since  the  discovery  of  aniline  dyes  cochineal  has  steadily 
fallen  away  in  value,  until  now  it  hardly  pays  even  the  Indian  to 
raise  it.  It  is  now  worth  but  ten  dollars  the  arroba,  but  formerly 
brought  one  hundred  dollars,  when  immense  fortunes  resulted 
from  its  cultivation.  The  Indians  affirm  that  Oaxaca  was  the 
original  habitat  of  the  cochineal,  whence  it  was  taken  to  Guate- 
mala and  the  Canaries. 


XXVI. 


THE   WONDERFUL   PALACES   OF   MITLA. 

I  TRUST  my  readers  will  pardon  my  frequent  allusions  to 
antiquarian  research ;  but,  craving  the  modern  Mexican's 
pardon,  the  old  vastly  predominates,  in  certain  portions  of 
Mexico,  over  the  new. 

Ruins  without  end  are  scattered  over  these  hills  and  through- 
out the  alluvial  plains,  indicating  the  vast  number  of  inhabitants 
that  must  have  been  at  one  time,  or  in  successive  ages,  concen- 
trated here.  Those  spanning  the  valley  of  Etla  have  been 
already  mentioned ;  but  the  great  aboriginal  mounds  are  equally 
numerous  in  that  of  Ejutla,  while  immediately  above  the  city 
of  Oaxaca  are  the  extensive  mounds  and  fortifications  of  Monte 
Alban,  that  proclaim  the  former  existence  there  of  a  wonderful 
civilization.  These,  though  examined  by  me,  our  space  forbids 
me  to  more  than  mention,  but  in  the  valley  of  Tlacolula,  twenty 
miles  southeast  from  Oaxaca,  is  the  crowning  achievement  of 
those  ancient  peoples,  in  the  palaces  of  Mitla,  the  former  abode 
and  the  places  of  burial  of  the  Zapotec  kings.  No  ruins  in  Mex- 
ico, and  probably  none  in  America,  are  more  elaborately  orna- 
mented, in  their  peculiar  style,  than  these. 

Lying  between  two  great  groups  entirely  different  in  the 
architecture  of  their  original  buildings,  this  Mitla  assemblage 
of  stone  structures  possesses  peculiarities  belonging  neither  to 
those  of  Yucatan,  to  the  northeast,  nor  to  those  of  Central 
Mexico,  to  the  northwest.  Though  from  its  geographic  posi- 
tion it  should  form  a  connecting  link  between  the  two  great 
systems,  yet  it  does  not,  but  stands  out  peculiarly  conspicuous 
for  its  singularities  of  architecture  and  ornament. 

When  our  party  found  itself  within  twenty  miles  of  Mitla,  and 
with  a  couple  of  days'  leisure,  it   decided  to  go  there  at  once. 


532 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


But  "  at  once  "  being  words  not  found  in  the  Mexican  vocabu- 
lary, we  were  not  surprised  to  find,  on  assembling  in  front  of  the 
hotel  at  the  time  appointed,  that  the  horses  we  had  engaged 
were  not  there.  After  a  protracted  search,  we  found  our  mozo, 
and  wrathfully  demanded  why  he  had  not  returned  to  inform  us 
of  his  inability  to  furnish   the  horses.     "  Para  que  ?  "  said   the 


GRAND   HALL.    MITLA. 


astonished  mozo.     "What  for?     Was  it  not  sufficient  for  you  to 
know  that  I  was  not  there?  " 

Late  in  the  forenoon  he  made  his  appearance  with  an  anti- 
quated coc/ie,  drawn  by  three  horses  and  two  mules,  and  we 
rode  out  through  the  gate  of  the  city  in  triumph.  At  the 
gate  and  beyond  we  encountered  hosts  of  Indians  coming  in  to 
market,  the  poorest  of  them  bearing  heavy  burdens  strapped 
to  their  backs,  secured  by  a  broad  band  over  their  foreheads, 
the  more  fortunate  riding  in  rude  carts  with  wooden  wheels, 
laden  with  corn  and  charcoal. 


THE    WONDERFUL    PALACES    OF   MITLA.  533 

Two  leagues  out,  we  entered  the  Indian  town  of  Tule,  which 
is  famous  all  over  Mexico  for  its  giant  savin-tree,  more  cele- 
brated, however,  for  its  breadth  than  height.  It  is  no  mean 
rival  of  the  gigantic  baobab  of  Africa  {Adansonia  digitata), 
which  Humboldt  considered  the  oldest  organic  monument  on 
the  globe,  but  the  largest  examples  of  which,  as  near  as  I  can 
ascertain,  measured  but  thirty-four  feet  in  diameter.  This  tree 
of  Tule  —  ttile  is  the  Aztec  name  for  bulrush — measured  around 
its  trunk,  at  five  feet  from  the  ground,  146  feet,  following  its 
irregularities  ;  longer  diameter  of  the  elHptical  trunk,  40  feet ;  di- 
ameter of  its  spreading  bulk  of  branches,  141  feet;  height,  about 
160  feet.  This  grand  old  arbol  is  in  the  centre  of  the  village,  in 
the  enclosure  containing  the  parish  church,  which  it  completely 
overtops.  Its  vast  bulk  can  be  seen  rising  above  the  plain  at  a 
long  distance  from  the  village,  and  it  is  said  to  have  sheltered 
the  army  of  Cortes,  when  on  its  terrible  march  to  Honduras, 
three  hundred  and  sixty  years  ago. 

Our  road  beyond  lay  over  a  fertile  plain  to  Tlacolula,  a  fine 
town  with  many  good  buildings,  in  a  region  of  aboriginal 
mounds.  In  the  outskirts,  the  houses  were  surrounded  by 
hedges  of  cactus,  with  gates  made  of  canes,  enclosing  fields  of 
corn.  The  main  road  to  Tehuantepec  branches  off  here,  and 
we  left  it  and  bore  more  to  the  east,  through  a  lateral  valley, 
where  the  soil  was  poorer,  though  bearing  thin  crops  of  cane 
and  corn.  We  rode  under  high  cliffs  full  of  caves  and  holes, 
in  which  a  miserable  people  found  shelter,  and  great  rocks  were 
set  up  on  the  ridge,  as  though  the  milestones  of  the  Cyclops, 
to  guide  one  to  the  valley  of  Mitla.  After  rounding  these 
cliffs,  the  semicircular  valley  opened  out,  with  an  Indian  town 
lying  at  the  bottom,  and  the  ruins  hidden  behind  it  surrounded 
by  hills  on  three  sides.  Two  great  trees  stand  in  the  centre  of 
the  town,  landmarks  visible  miles  away,  and  beneath  these  some 
dozen  or  so  of  women  were  holding  market  in  the  open  air  as 
we  drove  up.  The  only  good  house  in  the  village  was  that  of 
Don  Felix  Quero,  this  being  of  stone,  and  all  the  rest  of  mud 
or  adobe.  We  were  surprised  at  the  neatness  of  the  house, 
which  surrounded  a  great  square  yard,   containing  orange  and 


534  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

pomegranate  trees,  and  above  the  clean,  flagged  court  hung 
cages  of  parrots  and  mocking-birds.  We  got  here  a  very  good 
dinner,  and  clean  beds,  which  are  generally  rare  articles  in  the 
country  districts  of  Mexico.  In  the  market-place  of  the  town, 
we  found  a  great  stone  pillar  twelve  feet  high,  and  scattered 
about  were  mounds  of  adobe ;  but  the  real  ruins  were  situated 
across  the  river. 

The  Indians  here  are  Zapotecs,  and  not  only  speak  their 
ancient  language,  but  retain  their  old  customs  and  manners. 
When  they  meet,  they  salute  by  carrying  the  hand  of  their 
neighbor  to  their  lips,  especially  when  a  young  person  meets  an 
older  one.  Though  the  Indians  of  the  valley  are  Zapotecs, 
about  eight  leagues  distant,  in  the  almost  inaccessible  hills,  are 
Indians  who  speak  a  distinct  language  and  differ  from  them 
in  many  respects.  These  are  the  Mixes;  their  chief  town  is 
called  Ajutla,  and  they  are  said  —  though  I  do  not  believe  it 
—  to  retain  the  cannibalistic  feature  of  their  ancient  sacrifices. 
They  certainly  yet  sacrifice  birds,  wild  animals,  and  fowls  to 
their  gods,  being  only  nominally  Catholics,  and  being  as  great 
heathens  as  ever.  Owing  to  this  belief,  that  they  sacrifice  and 
devour  all  strangers  visiting  this  country,  no  white  men  go 
there ;  but,  being  a  lean  man,  I  think  I  would  not  hesitate  to 
venture  a  visit.  These  cannibals  have  ever  preserved  their  inde- 
pendence ;  they  were  never  conquered.  The  Spaniards  sub- 
jected the  Aztecs,  Tlascalans,  Miztecs,  and  many  others,  but  the 
Mixes  have  always  maintained  their  liberty.  The  town  was  full 
of  them  the  night  of  our  arrival,  it  being  Saturday,  on  their 
way  to  market  in  Tlacolula  and  Oaxaca.  This  was  their  half- 
way place,  where  they  passed  the  night,  though  the  next  morn- 
ing they  departed  before  daylight.  They  brought  with  them 
oranges,  peaches,  and  peppers ;  these  they  carried  in  nets,  on 
the  backs  of  mules  and  donkeys.  We  bought  thirty  large 
oranges  for  six  cents,  and  a  mule  load,  or  five  hundred,  for  a 
dollar.  These  people  seemed  not  quite  so  dirty  as  the  Zapo- 
tecs, who  were  immaculate  as  compared  with  the  Mexicans,  — 
the  Aztecs. 

It  was  a  simple  life  opened  to  us  in  that  Indian  village,  primi- 


THE    WONDERFUL   PALACES   OF   MITLA. 


535 


tive  as  at  any  period  prior  to  the  conquest ;  in  the  morning  the 
women  brought  out  their  calabashes  of  peppers,  ChiH  beans, 
and  fruit,  and  squatted  down  beneath  the  great  tree,  waiting  for 
a  customer,  spinning  industriously  the  while;  and  this  they  kept 
up  all  day  long,  chatting  and  gossiping  till  evening  fell. 

We  devoted  several  days  to  the  exploration  of  these  ruins  at 
Mitla,  known  to  the  world  only  through  vague  accounts  given  in 
archaeological  works ;   and  it  is  from  the  fact  that  their  history 


COURT   OF   MONOLITHS. 


is  SO  obscure,  and  that  no  popular  descriptions  of  them  have 
been  given,  that  I  assume  that  my  readers  will  be  interested  in 
a  description  of  these  "  dwellings  of  the  dead." 

Mitla,  says  the  eminent  antiquarian,  Bancroft,  author  of  "  The 
Native  Races  of  the  Pacific  Coast,"  is  probably  the  finest  group 
in  the  whole  Mexican  territory.  Here  was  a  great  religious 
centre,  mentioned  in  the  traditional  annals  of  the  Zapotecs, 
the  original  name  of  which  seems  to  have  been  Lioba,  or  Loba, 


536  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

the  place  of  tombs ;  called  by  the  Aztecs  Miquitlan,  MictlaUy 
or  Mitla,  "  place  of  sadness,"  dwelling  of  the  dead ;  often  used 
in  the  sense  of  hell.  The  gloomy  aspect  of  the  locality  ac- 
cords well  with  the  dread  significance  of  the  name.  A  stream, 
with  parched  and  shadeless  banks,  flows  through  the  valley; 
no  birds  sing,  or  flowers  bloom,  over  the  remains  of  the  Zapo- 
tec  heroes. 

Humboldt,  though  he  describes  them,  never  saw  these  ruins. 
The  first  exploration  was  in  1802,  by  Don  Luis  Martin  and 
Colonel  De  la  Laguna  from  Mexico,  who  visited  and  sketched 
the  ruins,  and  from  whom  Humboldt  got  his  information.  In 
1806,  Dupaix  and  Castenada,  and  in  1830,  the  German  traveller, 
Muhlenpfordt,  made  plans  and  drawings  which  were  published, 
the  originals  of  which  may  yet  be  seen  in  the  institute  of  Oaxaca. 
Muhlenpfordt's  plan,  given  by  Bancroft,  is  said  to  be  the  only 
general  one  ever  published.  The  French  archaeologist,  Charnay, 
took  photographs  of  Mitla  a  score  of  years  ago. 

There  are  five  groups  of  ruins,  three  of  which  are  in  excellent 
preservation.  A  portion  of  the  village  is  built  among  them,  and 
lies  near  the  bed  of  the  shallow  and  treeless  river.  After  cross- 
ing this  river-bed  you  enter  the  little  adobe  hamlet,  where  the 
only  vegetation  is  cactus  and  nopal,  and  find  yourself  unexpect- 
edly amongst  the  ruins.  As  they  do  not  lay  claim  to  regard 
so  much  on  account  of  their  height  as  for  their  extent  and 
elaborate  ornamentation,  the  wall  of  the  first  rises  before  you 
while  you  are  yet  unaware  of  its  vicinity.  Though  it  contains 
some  immense  blocks  of  porphyry,  and  traces  of  hieroglyphic 
painting,  its  ruin  is  more  complete  than  the  second  group,  to 
which  we  anxiously  hastened.  The  first  collection  is  about  one 
hundred  and  twenty  feet  by  one  hundred,  and  the  walls,  fifteen 
to  eighteen  feet  high,  enclose  a  large  court,  on  three  sides  of 
which  are  rooms.  The  outer  walls  of  all  the  ruins  are  composed 
of  oblong  panels  of  mosaic,  forming  grecques  or  arabesques. 
There  seems  to  be  no  sculpture  on  the  walls,  but  only  this 
peculiar  mosaic,  formed  of  pieces  of  stone,  each  one  about 
seven  inches  in  length,  one  in  depth,  and  two  in  breadth,  accu- 
rately cut,  and  fitted  into  the  face  of  the  wall,  forming  patterns 


THE   WONDERFUL   PALACES   OF   MITLA.  537 

SO  complicated  in  their  nature  that  only  the  accompanying 
engravings  can  properly  represent  them.  This  mosaic,  all  the 
figures  of  which  are  rectangular  or  diagonal,  gives  the  distinc- 
tive character  to  Mitla  that  distinguishes  it  from  all  other  ruins. 
The  facades  of  the  Yucatan  ruins  are  carved,  while  Palenque  is 
noted  for  its  sculptures  and  stucco  in  bas-relief,  and  Copan  for 
its  idols  and  altars.  We  are  overwhelmed  with  the  magnifi- 
cence of  this  great  work  as  a  whole,  and  impressed  by  the  care- 
ful execution  of  the  details  of  this  stupendous  undertaking. 

Beneath  a  wall  of  the  northern  building  is  an  underground 
chamber,  known  as  the  subterraneo,  in  the  shape  of  a  cross,  each 
arm  about  twelve  feet  long,  five  and  one  half  feet  wide  and  six 
and  one  half  feet  high.  The  immense  block  of  stone  that  covers 
the  junction  of  the  two  galleries  is  supported  by  a  monolith, 
called  the  "  Pillar  of  Death,"  from  a  tradition  that  whoever 
embraces  it  will  die  before  the  sun  goes  down.  To  the  hor- 
ror of  our  Indian  guides,  each  of  our  party  took  particular  pains 
to  embrace  that  pillar  most  affectionately,  and  we  still  live.  Tra- 
ditions are  rife  about  these  ruins.  One  relates  that  from  this 
subterraneo  leads  a  long,  underground  passage,  across  the  court, 
to  another  subterranean  chamber,  which  one  account  represents 
as  full  of  treasure,  and  another  as  full  of  mummies.  The  soil  of 
the  court  has  been  dug  over  at  various  times  by  treasure-hunters, 
and  it  is  confidently  believed  that  two  old  Indians  residing  here 
are  cognizant  of  an  immense  amount  of  buried  gold  and  silver; 
but  they  will  not  reveal  it,  and  merely  extract  sufficient  to  keep 
them  comfortable. 

We  crawled  into  the  subterraneo,  which  was  about  three  feet 
square,  and,  as  it  seemed  to  extend  farther,  our  archaeologist  was 
fired  with  the  desire  of  opening  it.  Accordingly,  having  secured 
permission  from  the_;>/>  of  the  village,  he  set  a  dozen  Indians  at 
work,  some  with  long  steel  ox-goads,  to  sound  the  cavities,  and 
others  with  wooden  shovels.  The  result  of  a  whole  day's  labor 
was  to  show  that  there  was  formerly  a  tomb  there,  but  that  the 
passage,  if  any  existed,  had  been  filled  up  hundreds  of  years  ago. 
The  interior  of  this  chamber  was  of  faced  stone,  with  panels  of 
that  wonderful  mosaic,  which  was  repeated  in  adobe  bricks. 


538  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

The  third  group  is  the  most  interesting,  since  not  only  are 
the  outside  walls  cut  in  mosaic,  but  there  are  several  rooms 
and  courts,  the  sides  of  which  are  a  labyrinth  of  grecques.  The 
lintels  of  this  and  the  adjacent  ruin  are  immense  blocks  of  por- 
phyry, one  of  which  is  nineteen  feet  in  length,  a  solid  block 
of  stone,  raised  to  its  present  position  by  some  lost  process  of 
engineering,  certainly  by  one  that  is  unknown  to  the  Indians 
of  to-day.  The  rooms  are  narrow,  and  at  present  open  to  the 
sky,  but  were  once  undoubtedly  protected  by  a  roof.  But  what 
distinguishes  the  ruins  of  Mitla  from  all  other  remains  of  Mex- 
ican architecture  is,  as  stated  by  Humboldt,  six  columns  of 
porphyry,  fourteen  feet  in  height,  which  are  ranged  in  line  in 
the  centre  of  a  great  hall.  They  are  very  simple,  having  neither 
pedestal,  capital,  nor  architrave,  but  stand  as  almost  the  only 
examples  of  the  kind  found  in  American  ruins. 

Above  these  ruins  is  a  stone  church,  in  the  central  portion  of 
this  bench  of  the  foot-hills  on  which  they  are  built.  We  entered 
the  curacy  adjoining  the  church,  which  was  simply  the  old  build- 
ing of  the  Indians,  roofed  with  tiles,  and  were  hospitably  received 
by  the  cura,  who  recounted  to  us  the  traditions  respecting  his 
strange  abode.  This  ruin  is  larger  than  the  others,  being  284 
feet  long  and  108  wide,  with  walls  five  or  six  feet  thick.  Two 
great  stone  pillars,  twelve  feet  high,  stood  in  front  of  the  door- 
way. The  walls  had  the  same  ornamentation  of  diagonal  mosaics, 
and  the  portion  used  as  a  stable  contains  the  best  preserved 
fragments  of  paintings  in  the  ruins,  of  characters  resembling  the 
Egyptian,  exquisitely  colored  in  red  and  black,  the  colors  yet 
fresh  and  bright.  The  cura  was  very  intelligent,  though  he  had 
Indian  blood  in  his  veins,  and  he  had  very  clear  ideas  as  to  the 
uses  of  the  various  buildings.  The  first  group,  he  said,  was 
probably  used  as  quarters  for  the  troops  ;  the  second,  the  largest 
and  most  elaborate,  was  the  palace  of  the  king  of  the  Zapotecs, 
who  came  here  two  or  three  months  in  each  year,  as  to  a  buen 
retiro  ;  the  third  and  highest  building,  from  which  and  out  of 
which  the  church  was  built,  was  used  by  the  priests,  and  these 
paintings  that  adorned  the  panels  in  the  walls  were  probably 
hieroglyphical,  and  in  their  custody. 


THE   MITLA    SCULPTURE,    A    LA   GRECQUE. 
(From  a  Photograph.) 


THE   WONDERFUL   PALACES   OF   MITLA.  541 

There  was  one  more  ruin,  a  pyramidal  mound  about  seventy- 
five  feet  in  height,  faced  with  stone,  with  a  series  of  stone  steps 
fronting  westward,  and  containing  to-day,  like  the  pyramid  of 
Cholula,  a  chapel  on  its  summit.  "  I  am  inclined  to  believe," 
says  Bancroft,  "  that  Mitla  was  built  by  the  Zapotecs  at  a  very 
early  period  of  their  civilization,  at  a  time  when  the  builders 
were  strongly  influenced  by  the  Maya  priesthood,  if  they  were 
not  themselves  a  branch  of  the  Maya  people."  Scattered  over 
the  ground,  as  about  the  pyramids  of  San  Juan,  near  Mexico,  are 
idols  of  clay  and  rude  implements  of  stone.  The  children 
brought  us  many,  some  excellently  carved,  flat  heads  of  terra- 
cotta, that  probably  once  served  as  ornaments  for  the  walls 
against  which  they  were  stuck.  Mention  is  made  of  stone 
wedges,  and  axes  and  chisels  of  copper,  having  been  found  in 
the  ancient  quarries,  yet  visible,  not  far  distant  from  the  ruins. 
That  the  hills  about  are  full  of  ruins  which  no  one  has  seen  of 
late,  we  were  fully  convinced.  We  visited  several  sepulchral 
structures  of  stone,  their  inner  surfaces  carved  into  the  same 
strange  shapes  as  adorned  the  walls. 

Professor  Bandelier,  sent  out  by  the  Archaeological  Institute 
of  America,  had  remained  here  twelve  days,  but  had  not  seen 
these  paredones,  or  Indian  walls,  in  the  hills  which  we  visited. 
The  first  one  we  saw  at  the  hacienda  of  Saga,  and  Mr.  Bliss 
and  myself  visited  it  while  Mr,  Ayme  carried  on  his  measure- 
ments and  excavations  at  Mitla,  from  which  it  is  one  league 
distant.  It  is  called  the  "  subterranean  palace,"  is  beneath  the 
house  of  the  proprieter  of  the  hacienda,  and  was  discovered 
some  twelve  years  ago.  The  first  intimation  that  this  modern 
house  had  been  built  above  a  tomb  of  the  departed  Indians  was 
from  a  phospJioric  light,  that  a  servant  saw  dancing  over  an  ap- 
erture in  the  floor  of  the  main  hall.  An  excavation  revealed  a 
vast  vault  in  the  shape  of  a  cross,  each  arm  of  which  was  about 
thirty  feet  in  length.  Three  skeletons  were  found  stretched  out 
in  it,  which  crumbled  to  dust  on  exposure  to  the  air.  The 
sides  of  the  great  blocks,  about  five  feet  in  height,  were  orna- 
mented after  the  fashion  of  Mitla,  but  instead  of  mosaics  the 
figures  were  ait  from  the  solid  stone.     This  was  of  a  fresh  red 


542  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

color,  and  the  raised  portions  in  relief  were  burnished.  Perhaps 
all  those  on  the  walls  of  Mitla  were,  at  one  time;  but  these 
alone  have  preserved  their  color,  by  having  been  buried. 

We  effected  our  descent  to  the  tomb  through  a  hole  covered 
by  a  loose  plank  in  the  floor,  and  escaped  from  the  damp  and 
dismal  place  in  the  same  way.  Then  the  courteous  proprietor 
supplied  us  with  horses,  and  we  ascended  the  high  hills  in  quest 
of  the  paredones  above  the  valley,  —  a  most  tedious  climb,  over 
ridges  and  through  barrancas.  We  found  the  largest  paredon 
in  a  dense  thicket  on  a  hill  commanding  the  whole  valley,  near 
the  gap  through  which  passes  the  trail  to  the  Mixe  village  of 
Ayutla.  A  sepulchre  is  formed  here,  of  massive  blocks,  in  the 
form  of  a  cross,  about  ten  feet  deep,  six  w^ide,  and  thirty  long. 
All  the  inner  faces  of  these  immense  blocks  are  sculptured,  like 
those  at  Saga,  while  other  dressed  rocks  are  scattered  about. 

About  two  miles  from  Mitla  is  a  high  hill,  the  top  of  which 
has  been  levelled  and  fortified.  A  wall  of  stone  from  ten  to 
twenty  feet  in  height  completely  surrounds  it,  in  all  more  than 
a  mile  in  length.  The  hill  is  about  six  hundred  feet  high,  pre- 
cipitous and  inaccessible  except  towards  Mitla,  where  the  wall 
is  not  only  double,  or  overlaps,  but  the  entrances  are  not  oppo- 
site each  other  and  penetrate  the  walls  obliquely.  After  a  very 
hard  climb  we  reached  the  summit,  where  we  found  the  remains 
of  adobe  dwellings,  great  heaps  of  stones,  as  though  gathered 
for  defence,  and  thousands  of  fragments  of  pottery.  There  were 
also  great  rocks  poised  near  the  battlements,  as  if  ready  to  be 
toppled  over  upon  an  enemy  attacking  from  below.  The  for- 
tification follows  the  contours  of  the  cliffs,  at  all  points  present- 
ing a  perpendicular  face  to  assailants.  The  hill  completely 
dominates  the  little  valley  hidden  from  the  world  in  this  roman- 
tic spot,  and  overlooks  the  larger  valley  outside  and  all  the  dry 
plains  and  hills  about  Mitla.  It  was  evidently  built  by  a  differ- 
ent people  from  those  architects  of  the  palaces  below,  and  it 
must  have  served  well  as  a  place  of  defence.  Terrible  battles 
have  been  fought  here,  one  of  the  greatest  of  which,  if  we  may 
believe  tradition,  was  regarding  the  possession  of  Montezuma's 
daughter.     It  seems  that  the  king  of  the  Zapotecs  and  the  king 


THE  WONDERFUL   PALACES   OF  MITLA. 


543 


of  the  Miztecs  each  desired  the  daughter  of  the  Mexican  king 
for  his  son  to  marry.  She  was  given  to  the  Zapotec,  upon  which 
the  king  of  the  Miztecs  made  war  upon  him,  and  a  sanguinary- 
battle  was  fought  upon  this  very  hill,  overlooking  the  palaces  of 
the  Zapotec  king,  and  the  Miztecs  were  defeated. 

At  sunset,  we  descended  from  this  deserted  fortress  to  the 
valley  that  lay  below.  A  solitary  plain  stretched  before  us, 
covered  with  rock  and  stone,  and  a  few  dry  bushes.  It  was  late, 
and  even  the  pasture  boys  had  gone  to  their  huts,  and  all  was 
still.  As  I  walked  down  the  steep  slopes,  I  thought  upon  what 
this  valley  must  have  been  when  Mitla  was  in  its  glory,  swarming 
with  the  flower  of  Indian  nobility,  with  men  of  intelligence, 
architects  of  skill,  and  warriors  of  renown.  How  did  this  little 
valley  support  them  all?  Was  it  always  so  dry  and  sterile? 
Where  are  those  people  now,  and  how  long  is  it  since  they 
built  these  palaces  and  tombs? 

On  our  way  home- 
ward we  visited  the 
town  of  Teotitlan,  the 
"  dwelling  of  the  god," 
so  called  because  the 
chief  deity  of  the  In- 
dians once  had  his 
residence  on  a  high 
peak  overlooking  the 
town.  We  were  met 
by  the  alcalde,  who 
wore  nothing  but  a 
hat,  shirt,  and  sandals, 
but  who  carried  a  sil- 
ver-headed cane  as  a  badge  of  authority.  The  people  of  the 
village  were  clad  in  rags  and  were  very  dirty,  while  the  children 
roamed  around  with  no  covering  to  their  nakedness  but  their 
hats,  and  some  of  these  even  were  brimless. 

A  thunder-storm  came  over  and  prevented  much  exploration, 
but  we  discovered  several  large  stones,  one  with  a  carved  rep- 
resentation of  a  tiger  on  it,  and  bought  a  few  very  curious  jars. 


THE  NEW  DISCOVERY  (SCULPTURED  STONE). 


544 


TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 


or  pots,  of  peculiar  make,  and  very  uncommon.  The  traditions 
of  this  place  are  well  preserved,  and  though  the  people  are  in- 
hospitable, an  archaeologist  of  perseverance  could  pass  a  most 
profitable  season  among  the  hills  and  in  the  valley  of  Tlacolula. 

Some  years  ago,  in  this  valley,  a  great  discovery  was  made  of 
a  large  number  of  copper  axes ;  nearly  a  bushel  of  them  were 
ploughed  up,  by  a  very  intelligent  friend  of  ours,  Senor  Fidencio 
Fenochio.     Unfortunately,  as  they  were  of  nearly  pure  copper, 

they  were  melted 
down,  to  be  used  in 
the  reduction  of  sil- 
ver. But  our  party 
secured  a  number, 
and  the  six  that  fell 
to  my  lot  were  the 
first,  so  far  as  could 
be  ascertained,  ever 
brought  to  the  United 
States.  Two  of  these 
went  to  the  Smithso- 
nian Institution,  and 
four  to  the  Peabody 
Museum  of  Archaeology,  at  Cambridge.  Upon  analysis  they 
proved  to  be  almost  unalloyed,  the  Smithsonian  specimens  con- 
taining 98.7  per  cent  of  pure  metallic  copper,  the  balance  being 
iron,  arsenic,  and  antimony.  Prof.  F.  W.  Putnam,  a  high  au- 
thority, describes  these  specimens,  as  well  as  all  others  known 
of  American  aboriginal  copper  ornaments  and  implements,  in  a 
paper  which  is  unquestionably  the  most  valuable  contribution  to 
our  knowledge  of  the  subject.^  Among  the  "  axes  "  obtained 
by  me  were  two  of  the  shape  of  the  Greek  Tau,  of  pure  cop- 
per and  very  thin.  A  figure  of  each  type  is  here  shown, 
reduced  in  size.     Although  the   larger   and   thicker   specimens 

1  See  Fifteenth  Annual  Report  of  the  Peabody  Museum  of  American  Archaeol- 
ogy and  Ethnology,  Cambridge,  1S82.  In  this  Museum  we  find  arranged,  (through 
the  indefatigable  industry  of  Professor  Putnam,)  not  only  collections  of  the  an- 
tiquities of  Mexico,  but  specimens  of  indigenous  products  illustrating  the  growth 
of  native  industries  in  modern  times. 


TWO   TYPES   OF    "COPPER    AXES." 


I 


THE   WONDERFUL   PALACES   OF   MITLA.  545 

may  have  served  as  axes,  yet  the  tenuity  of  the  smaller  ones 
forbids  any  supposition  that  they  were  so  used.  They  most 
probably  served  as  currency,  and  as  articles  of  tribute. 

After  our  return  to  the  city  of  Oaxaca,  our  chief  projected  a 
series  of  expeditions  to  the  hill  towns  and  mountain  districts  of 
the  great  State,  which  involved  three  long  and  fatiguing  jour- 
neys among  the  Indians  of  the  sierras,  where  gentcs  de  razon, 
or  "  reasonable  men,"  were  scarcer  than  the  gold  which  was 
the  object  of  these  expeditions.  We  rode,  in  all,  over  nine  hun- 
dred miles,  horseback  and  muleback,  and  our  adventures  were 
of  such  a  romantic  character  as  to  be  almost  out  of  place  in  a 
sober  book  of  travel.  At  all  events,  the  space  at  my  disposal 
will  not  permit  me  to  include  them,  and  I  hasten  on  to  the  con- 
clusion of  my  explorations  in  Southern  Mexico ;  though  with 
extreme  regret,  for  notes  made  from  the  saddle  are  always  more 
interesting  than  those  from  a  car  window,  and  fresh  fields  far 
more  fascinating  than  a  region  traversed  by  beaten  paths. 

Our  friend  and  companion  on  these  excursions  was  a  noted 
horseman  of  Southern  Mexico,  Don  Santos  Gomez,  who  pro- 
vided the  best  of  horses  and  the  safest  of  mules,  conducting 
us  to  our  destinations  with  the  tender  solicitude  of  a  mother. 
Each  caballero  of  the  party  was  fully  equipped  after  the  Mexi- 
can fashion,  which  is  the  best  in  the  world  for  travel  on  horseback. 
On  his  head  he  wore  a  broad  sombrero,  or  felt  hat,  of  native 
manufacture,  and  from  his  shoulders,  in  the  cool  of  morning  or 
evening,  depended  the  sarape,  or  blanket  shawl,  also  the  pro- 
duct of  native  skill.  Having  a  slit  in  the  centre,  through  which 
the  head  was  thrust,  it  fell  around  him  in  graceful  folds,  hiding 
the  broad  belt  about  his  waist,  which  contained  a  aichillo,  or 
broad-bladed  knife,  and  his  revolver,  and  covered  likewise  the 
saddle,  as  well  as  a  goodly  portion  of  the  beast  he  rode.  For 
the  rain  he  had  his  manga  de  agjia,  or  rain-cloak,  a  rubber 
sarape,  like  the  poncho  of  South  America,  so  broad  and  ample 
that  it  not  only  protected  the  rider  from  rain,  but  could  be 
spread  out  over  the  animal  beneath  him  from  head  to  tail. 

The  sarape,  I  am  inclined  to  believe,  is  an  aboriginal  garment, 
worn  by  the  Indians  of  Mexico  in  pre-Columbian  times.     It  is 

35 


546  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

made  about  two  metres  in  length  and  one  in  breadth,  nearly 
always  with  a  short  fringe  at  either  end,  and  generally  colored 
in  bright  stripes  with  native  dyes.  It  is,  in  fact,  a  long,  gay- 
colored  blanket,  with  a  slit  in  the  middle,  always  parallel  to  its 
longer  sides,  which  is  the  centre  of  a  pattern-work  more  or  less 
ornamental,  according  to  its  nature  and  price.  I  have  noticed 
that  there  is  a  similarity  of  pattern  in  all  the  sarapes  which 
have  come  under  my  observation,  the  ornamentation  of  the 
centre  being  always  in  certain  zigzag  lines,  which  reminded  me 
of  the  grecques  on  the  walls  of  the  palaces  of  Mitla. 

We  did  not  adopt  the  extreme  Mexican  costume,  as  worn  by 
our  guide,  Don  Santos,  with  leather  breeches,  or  shaggy  goat- 
skin chaparreros ,  nor  deck  our  heels  with  enormous  silver  spurs, 
—  which,  though  often  several  inches  in  diameter,  are  less  cruel 
than  the  needle-pointed  English  ones ;  nor  were  our  jackets  of 
embossed  and  silver-braided  leather,  nor  our  pantaloons  orna- 
mented with  silver  buttons  adown  their  seams.  For  we  had 
assumed  the  garb  of  the  Mexican  only  as  it  should  contribute 
to  our  comfort,  and  were  not  intending  to  lay  siege  to  any  fair 
senorita,  —  if  perchance  any  such  existed  in  the  sierras,  —  or  to 
display  ourselves  otherwise  than  as  caballeros  en  viage,  or  gen- 
tlemen on  a  journey. 

Coming  down  from  our  third  and  last  trip  into  the  hills,  on 
the  8th  of  September,  it  was  found  that  the  next  steamer  for 
the  United  States  would  sail  from  Vera  Cruz  on  the  13th.  To 
reach  the  nearest  point  on  the  railroad  to  the  coast  necessi- 
tated a  horseback  ride  of  one  hundred  and  seventy  miles,  clear 
through  to  Tehuacan,  over  an  extremely  rough  mountain  road, 
and  with  scant  three  days  to  do  it  in.  Don  Santos,  who  had 
been  a  most  active  courier  in  the  Franco-Mexican  war,  and 
had  served  in  various  pronimciaitiientos ,  volunteered  to  place  me 
in  connection  with  the  railroad  within  three  days,  or  kill  his 
best  horse  in  the  attempt.  And  he  did  it,  without  damage  to 
his  gallant  stallions,  but  at  an  expense  to  myself  of  a  fever,  which 
has  racked  my  bones  at  intervals  ever  since. 

My  good  guide  left  me  at  the  station  in  Tehuacan,  where, 
after  placing  in  my  hands  the  bridle  of  the  horse  I  had  ridden 


THE    WONDERFUL   PALACES   OF   MITLA. 


547 


SO  many  long  days  and  nights,  and  to  which  I  had  become 
devotedly  attached,  he  embraced  me  with  all  the  affection  of  a 
brother,  and  wished  me  God  speed  on  my  journey.  He  was  a 
type  of  the  true  and  trusty  guide  of  Mexico ;  may  he  long 
survive  to  guide  other  travellers  where  I  have  been ! 

To  one  who  has  trav- 
elled for  nearly  two 
months  with  no  other 
means  of  transportation 
than  mules  and  horses, 
the  sight  of  a  railroad  is 
most  refreshing.  Even  if 
he  make  what  may  be 
called  a  Mexican  connec- 
tion, —  that  is,  find  him- 
self just  twenty-two  hours 
late  for  the  train,  —  he 
has  consolation  in  the 
fact  that  he  is  again  in  a 
portion  of  the  country 
where  a  train  runs  at  stat- 
ed intervals,  even  though 
but  once  a  day.  I  had 
been  in  the  saddle,  previ- 
ous to  reaching  the  sta- 
tion of  Esperanza,  for 
sixteen  days ;  in  the  last 
three,  had  ridden  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy  miles, 
sixty  in  the  last  day,  and  had  reached  the  railroad  in  a  state  of 
exhaustion  and  fever,  for  which  the  great  heat  of  the  southern 
valleys,  in  violent  contrast  to  the  cold  of  the  high  plateaux, 
was  mainly  responsible. 

Two  months  previously  I  had  left  Cordova  for  Southern  Mex- 
ico, taking  with  me  but  little  luggage,  as  the  travel  was  to  be  on 
horseback,  and  had  left  nearly  all  my  effects  with  a  worthy  man 
whose  acquaintance  I  had  made  but  a  few  days  before.     At  that 


DON    SANTOS,    CABALLERO. 


548  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

time  the  yellow-fever  was  within  eighteen  miles  of  Cordova  and 
rapidly  advancing  up  the  mountains.  Now  it  was  in  the  town 
itself,  and  raging  still  more  fiercely  than  at  the  coast,  and  it  was 
reported  that  the  small-pox  was  carrying  off  such  as  the  vomito 
spared.  Three  telegrams,  sent  in  advance,  elicited  no  response 
from  my  friend,  and  I  feared  he  had  departed,  a  victim  to  the 
vomito,  until  the  dreaded  station  was  reached,  and  my  luggage 
found  in  possession  of  the  agent. 

It  is  a  very  strange  fact,  —  but  nevertheless  a  fact,  —  that,  no 
matter  how  much  the  vomito  has  devastated  a  place,  the  promi- 
nent people  all  seem  to  be  spared.  Here  in  Cordova,  it  was 
reported,  a  dozen  people  had  died  daily  for  a  month,  yet  at  the 
depot  there  were  the  same  officials,  the  same  porters,  even  the 
same  women  and  children  selling  mangos  and  pine-apples. 

Dreaded  by  many  is  the  passage  through  the  city  of  Vera 
Cruz  during  the  summer  or  the  autumn  months.  Every  pre- 
caution is  taken  against  delay  there,  and  people  en  voyage  hurry 
through  hardly  daring  to  draw  a  deep  breath  till  safe  on  ship- 
board. My  calculations  had  been  made  with  an  eye  to  this 
fact,  with  the  intention  of  going  direct  from  train  to  steamer ; 
but  there  was  a  great  obstacle  to  the  carrying  out  of  this 
plan.  As  we  got  down  clear  of  the  mountains  and  were  cross- 
ing the  Llanos,  we  were  saluted  by  furious  blasts ;  the  palm 
trees  were  wildly  lashing  their  trunks  with  their  long  leaves, 
and  the  wind  whistled  and  howled  through  the  train. 

A  chronic  complaint  along  the  coast  of  Vera  Cruz  is  that  blast 
of  Boreas  called  the  "  Norther."  It  swoops  down  upon  the  sea 
like  a  bird  of  prey,  sending  ships  ashore,  and  laying  low  many  a 
forest  monarch  and  many  a  residence  on  land.  The  open  road- 
steads of  this  coast  offer  no  protection,  except  for  the  slight 
shelter  afforded  by  the  island  and  castle  of  San  Juan  de  Ulua,  in 
the  bay  of  Vera  Cruz.  The  sea  dashes  over  the  quay  in  great 
waves,  and  over  the  sea-wall  into  the  streets,  covering  the  custom- 
house with  spray,  and  the  houses  of  even  the  back  streets  with 
incrustations  of  salt.  The  wind  howls  through  the  streets,  fill- 
ing everybody  with  sand  and  consternation ;  but  it  is  a  wel- 
come visitor,  nevertheless,  and  the  amount  of  disease  and  fever 


THE    WONDERFUL   PALACES   OF   MITLA.  549 

germs  it  dislodges,  and  sends  off  to  be  dissipated  in  thin  air, 
cannot  be  calculated.  During  the  "  Norther "  all  the  small 
boats  and  lighters  are  drawn  out  and  hauled  up  beyond  the 
reach  of  the  surf.  Larger  boats  and  steamers  are  made  as 
snug  as  possible,  and  the  crews  rejoice  in  a  short  period  of 
enforced  leisure. 

By  this  series  of  gales  the  steamer  was  detained  three  days 
beyond  her  usual  time  of  leaving,  and  I,  after  having  made  such 
frantic  efforts  to  reach  her,  after  having  ridden  so  fast  and  far  to 
catch  her,  found  myself  stranded  (as  it  were)  in  Vera  Cruz  till 
the  storms  were  over.  Then  we  departed  from  this  glorious 
country,  from  this  land  of  surprises,  of  deep,  impenetrable  for- 
ests, shrouding  from  human  view  cities  born  thousands  of  years 
before  our  history  began,  and  at  the  port  of  Progreso,  at  the 
extreme  tip  of  Yucatan,  we  finally  said  good  by  to  Mexico. 

Seven  months  previously  I  had  landed  on  this  very  shore,  a 
stranger,  not  knowing  a  single  soul.  I  had  gone  into  the  inte- 
rior, and  had  since  travelled  many  a  mile  through  the  forests  and 
over  the  plains  and  mountains  of  New  Spain.  Now  I  was  re- 
turning to  the  "  States,"  laden  with  the  spoils  of  many  a  foray  in 
historic  fields,  and  rich  in  the  recollection  of  many  friends,  —  pur- 
sued, perchance,  by  the  curses  of  a  few  enemies.  It  seemed 
like  parting  from  scenes  of  home,  when  we  steered  away  from 
Yucatan,  and  the  low  sand-hills,  with  their  fringes  of  palms, 
amongst  which  nestled  red-roofed  houses,  sank  down  behind 
the  sea. 

Two  days  later,  we  were  dodging  the  carriages  in  the  streets 
of  Havana,  and  listening  to  the  band,  at  evening,  as  it  filled  the 
cool  air  with  music  in  the  Parque  de  Ysabel.  Havana,  too,  was 
stricken  with  yellow-fever,  but  we  heard  more  of  it  before  we 
reached  the  port  than  after  we  had  entered  it.  Indeed,  the  port 
officials,  rotten  with  pestilence  and  jaundiced  with  past  fevers, 
wished  to  place  us  in  quarantine,  instead  of  warning  us  against 
infection  on  land.  But  we  sauntered  on  shore,  and  took 
aboard  cargoes  of  sugar  and  tobacco,  and  really  gave  the  fever 
little  thought.  Nor  had  we  any  occasion  to,  though  we  were 
saddened,  and   reminded  that  the  climate  of  Mexico  was  not 


550 


TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 


entirely  perfect,  by  the  death  of  one  of  our  number,  only  one 
day  out  from  Havana.  We  buried  him  next  morning  at  sea, 
almost  within  sight  of  the  Florida  coast,  and  three  days  later 
we  crossed  the  Gulf  Stream,  and  entered  the  harbor  of  our 
grandest  city. 


BOOK     III. 


THE    BORDER    STATES. 


"  O  vale  of  Rio  Bravo  !     Let  thy  simple  children  weep ; 
Close  watch  about  their  holy  fire  let  maids  of  Pecos  keep  : 
Let  Taos  send  her  cry  across  Sierra  Madre's  pines, 
And  Algodones  toll  her  bells  amidst  her  corn  and  vines  ; 
For  lo  !  the  pale  land-seekers  come,  with  eager  eyes  of  gain, 
Wide  scattering,  like  the  bison  herds,  on  broad  Salada's  plain." 


XXVII. 


BY   RAIL  TO    NORTHERN   MEXICO. 

I  AWOKE,  one  morning,  on  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Grande, 
the  great  river  separating  the  two  repubhcs  of  the  North, 
with  twenty-five  hundred  miles  between  me  and  the  city  from 
which  I  had  departed  five  days  before.  I  had  left  it  in  the 
gloomy  twilight  of  an  evening  in  May,  on  the  first  day  of  that 
month  of  disappointments. 

O  the  kaleidoscopic  changes  of  that  ride  by  rail !  We  left 
New  York  with  hardly  a  tree  in  blossom ;  in  Western  Penn- 
sylvania, the  cherries,  peaches,  and  pears  were  bursting  into 
bloom ;  in  Ohio,  they  had  hidden  their  skeletons  of  branches  in 
sheets  of  pink  and  white';  and  in  Indiana  and  Illinois,  as  the 
great  road  trended  southward,  foliage  and  flower  vied  in  its  dis- 
play of  verdure  and  efflorescence. 

Night  fell  about  us  in  the  centre  of  the  famous  Horseshoe 
Curve,  partially  veiling  its  glories  and  its  beauties ;  but  before 
the  second  day  had  drawn  to  a  close  we  had  reached  the  Missis- 
sippi, had  crossed  its  miracle  of  a  bridge,  and  had  entered  the 
city  which  stands  at  the  confluence  of  our  mightiest  rivers,  —  St. 
Louis.  Thirty-six  hours  and  a  thousand  miles  parted  us  from 
the  great  metropolis  of  the  coast ;  but  we  did  not  stop  here,  for 
a  train  was  in  waiting  in  the  great  Union  Depot,  and  it  was  but 
a  step  from  Eastern  to  Western  track ;  another  iron  steed  was 
harnessed  into  our  carriage,  and  in  another  hour  we  were  divid- 
ing the  mists  that  lay  above  the  Missouri  prairies.  At  daylight, 
next  morning,  we  were  half-way  across  the  State,  at  ten  o'clock 
we  sliced  off  a  corner  of  Kansas,  and  at  noon  were  in  the  Indian 
Territory.  When  I  sought  my  berth  that  night,  the  third  of  the 
journey,  we  were  still  speeding  across  the  boundless  Indian  prai- 


554  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

ries;  but  when  I  awoke,  next  morning,  the  beautiful  plains,  with 
vast  herds  of  cattle  feeding  on  them,  and  covered  with  flowers 
of  every  color,  proclaimed  our  entrance  into  Texas.  Diagonally 
across  this  grandest  of  States  we  drew  a  southward-trending 
line,  and  the  thousand  pictures  that  danced  before  our  eyes  — 
that  appeared,  vanished,  and  were  replaced  by  others,  which  in 
turn  waltzed  away  into  space  —  were  seen  through  the  crystal 
plate  of  a  hotel-car  window.  We  ate,  we  played,  we  slept;  we 
awoke  refreshed,  to  renew  the  blissful  experience  of  the  day 
that  had  passed,  with  an  ever-recurring  change  of  scene. 

And  so,  as  I  said  at  the  beginning,  we  reached  the  Rio 
Grande,  where  I  opened  my  eyes  from  my  fourth  night's  rest- 
ful repose,  and  left  with  keen  regret  the  shelter  of  my  tempo- 
rary house  on  wheels. 

It  is  at  San  Antonio,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the 
Rio  Grande,  that  one  first  enters  a  really  Mexican  settlement. 
Beyond  San  Antonio,  running  south,  the  great  inclined  plane  of 
Texas,  which  slopes  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  which  is  fertile 
in  the  northern  and  central  portions  of  the  State,  becomes  more 
sterile,  and  is  covered  with  chaparral,  of  cactus,  yucca,  and  mes- 
quit,  —  vegetation  anything  but  attractive,  though  shading  a 
peculiarly  sweet  and  nutritious  grass,  which  renders  this  region 
desirable  for  the  cow-boy  and  ranger.  It  is  not  my  purpose  to 
describe  other  country  than  that  pertaining  to  Mexico;  yet  in 
Texas  we  find  ourselves  in  a  former  province  of  New  Spain,  and 
at  San  Antonio  in  an  ancient  Mexican  town,  set  down  in  the 
centre  of  a  very  pleasant  and  fruitful  region. 

The  scenery  of  this  section,  though  of  the  finest,  is  less  at- 
tractive to  me  than  its  history ;  for  here  were  established,  as 
early  as  1690,  by  monks  coming  up  from  Queretaro  and  Zaca- 
tecas,  those  frontier  missions  of  Mexico.  The  "  Mission  Period  " 
lasted  from  1690  to  1820,  or  so  long  as  the  Spaniards  held  pos- 
session of  Mexico;  but  at  the  opening  of  this  century,  Texas, 
although  a  province  of  New  Spain  for  one  hundred  and  fifty 
years,  was  almost  unknown  to  Americans.  Austin's  bold  project 
of  colonization  opened  it  to  the  North,  and  in  a  few  short  years 
it  became  more  populous  and  prosperous  than  any  State  of  the 


BY   RAIL   TO   NORTHERN    MEXICO.  555 

Mexican  confederation.  Then  came  the  inevitable  trouble  be- 
tween the  hardy  and  independent  citizens  of  this  remote  prov- 
ince and  the  miHtary  rulers  sent  to  govern  them  from  Mexico. 
After  the  massacre  of  the  Alamo,  in  1836,  the  Mexicans  lost 
men,  and  courage,  and  territory,  until  the  last  was  finally  entirely 
wrested  from  them,  and  the  limits  of  Old  Mexico  fixed  at  the 
Rio  Grande,  instead  of  the  Rio  Sabinas. 

But,  except  to  pause  a  moment  to  gather  up  these  scattered 
threads  of  history  that  connect  San  Antonio  with  the  country 
we  are  about  to  visit,  we  have  no  cause  to  linger  here ;  our  des- 
tination is  Mexico,  Let  us  return  to  the  Rio  Grande.  The 
Mexican  monks  pushed  their  religious  conquests  into  the  Indian 
country,  founding  fortified  posts  as  far  east  as  San  Antonio  ;  but 
-*  there  was  no  permanent  settlement  on  the  Rio  Grande  until 
1737,  when  the  Presidio  of  Laredo  was  established.  Herds  of 
cattle  and  horses  gradually  extended  over  the  intervening  coun- 
try, and  to  the  south  and  west ;  but  at  the  breaking  up  of  the 
colonies,  in  1820,  these  became  the  prey  of  the  Indians,  or  ran 
wild,  and  gave  rise  to  great  droves  of  mustangs,  which  were  in 
later  years  found  grazing  here  in  countless  numbers. 

So  complete  became  the  desolation  of  this  southwestern 
section  that,  when  General  Taylor  marched  with  his  army  from 
Corpus  Christi  to  the  Rio  Grande,  in  1846,  it  is  said  that  not 
an  inhabitant  existed  there.  It  was  not  till  1850  that  the  re- 
populating  of  this  portion  of  Texas  commenced,  when  the  mus- 
tangs were  caught  or  killed,  and  the  foundations  laid  for  that 
great  enterprise  of  stock-raising,  to  which  alone  this  arid  region 
is  adapted.  Over  this  apparently  worthless  territory  the  stock- 
raisers  of  Texas  are  now  quarrelling  bitterly,  and  running  fences 
in  every  direction,  one  owner  alone  having  above  one  hundred 
miles  of  barbed  wire  around  his  ranch. 

Along  the  entire  length  of  the  treacherous  Rio  Grande,  there 
are  few  natural  passes  through  the  sterile  hills  that  guard  its 
banks.  Laredo  is  situated  at  one  of  these,  and  is  the  objective 
point  for  the  great  railways,  which  are  shooting  their  steel  shafts 
across  the  Border,  and  which  take  no  heed  of  men  or  towns,  but 
seek  for  passes  with  natural  advantages.     It  is  the  largest  town 


556  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

in  Webb  County,  which  has  an  area  of  fifteen  hundred  square 
miles,  and  Hes  along  the  river.  Its  climate  is  mild,  though  trying, 
and  cattle  are  pastured  throughout  the  year,  though  only  about 
one  tenth  the  county  area  is  fit  for  cultivation.  The  population 
of  the  county  is  about  eight  thousand,  which  represents  a  gain 
of  six  thousand  in  ten  years ;  and  its  taxable  property  $2,000,000, 
or  a  million  and  a  half  more  than  in  1870.  Laredo  itself  con- 
tains about  six  thousand  inhabitants,  constantly  increasing  in 
number,  and  the  American  element  yearly  gaining  on  the  inert 
and  useless  Mexican. 

Every  town  on  the  Rio  Grande  has  its  counterpart  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  so  there  is  here  a  new  and  an  old 
Laredo.  One,  the  American,  is  busy,  prosperous,  progressive ; 
the  other,  the  Mexican,  is  idle,  lifeless,  and  gone  to  decay.  Yet,  * 
notwithstanding  that  the  American  Laredo  has  such  an  unde- 
sirable neighbor,  it  is  advancing  with  mighty  strides,  dragging 
after  it  the  moribund  carcass  of  its  sister  town,  which  it  is  all 
but  resuscitating,  in  its  own  efforts  to  enter  into  a  new  and 
quickening  life.  It  is  an  American  town  engrafted  upon  a  Mex- 
ican stump,  but  which  might  have  been  a  yet  more  vigorous 
shoot  if  it  had  been  a  seedling  in  virgin  soil,  instead  of  a  nurs- 
ling with  decaying  roots. 

There  are  few  beautiful  buildings  in  Laredo,  but  these  are 
ambitious  ones,  such  as  the  court-house  and  jail,  which  cost 
nearly  sixty  thousand  dollars,  and  those  of  the  several  railways. 
If  I  were  writing  of  the  Laredo  of  five  years  hence,  I  should 
speak  of  handsome  and  substantial  structures,  for  these  are  des- 
tined to  be  built.  The  Mexican  character  of  the  town  is  visible 
in  its  plaza  and  church,  the  former  treeless,  and  the  latter  more 
barren  of  ornament  than  is  usual  in  the  houses  of  worship  in 
Catholic  Mexico. 

The  town  has  a  bank,  several  second-rate  hotels  and  first-rate 
bar-rooms,  many  large  mercantile  houses,  an  "  opera-house,"  a 
ten-thousand-dollar  school  fund,  telephones,  and  water-works, 
and  electric  lights  in  prospective  for  the  very  near  future.  Yet, 
withal,  Laredo  is  set  down  in  the  midst  of  a  landscape  that  is 
absolutely  heart-rending  in  its  dreariness,  and  rejoices  in  a  cli- 


BY   RAIL   TO   NORTHERN   MEXICO.  559 

mate  that,  though  healthy,  is  most  discouraging  and  appalling, 
alike  to  resident  and  new  arrival.  It  is  hot,  but  that  is  nothing ; 
it  is  windy,  but  that  does  not  signify ;  yet  when  heat  and  wind 
combine,  and  the  one  scorches  the  Rio  Grande  sand  until  it  is 
fine  grit,  and  the  other  hurls  it  into  the  air  in  whirlwinds  of  dust, 
then  the  dweller  in  Laredo  muffles  his  head  and  curses  his  un- 
happy lot,  while  the  temporary  sojourner  curses  likewise,  but 
departs.  But  for  the  heat,  and  the  sand,  and  the  fleas,  and  the 
Border  Mexican,  it  would  be  pleasant  to  live  in  Laredo,  if  one 
were  not  obliged  to  gaze  continuously  upon  its  joyless  scenery. 
But  as  Laredo  is  the  "  gateway  "  to  the  promised  land  of  Mex- 
ico, one  need  not  remain  here  if  he  choose  to  go  farther,  for 
here  two  great  international  lines  cross  the  Border  and  invade 
Mexican  territory.  One  hundred  and  sixty-seven  miles  west  is 
Corpus  Christi,  the  Gulf  terminus  of  the  "  Mexican  National " 
railroad,  while  to  the  north  is  San  Antonio,  connected  with 
Laredo  by  the  "  International  and  Great  Northern."  Here  the 
"  Oriental,"  the  southern  courier  of  the  vast  "  Gould  System  " 
of  railroads,  leaps  straight  across  the  river,  penetrates  the  tierra 
caliente,  or  hot  coast  region,  and  draws  a  direct  line  for  Mexico 
City.  Thence  it  will  be  continued  southward  by  the  "  Mexican 
Southern,"  a  concession  controlled  by  General  Grant,  and  event- 
ually may  penetrate  the  confines  of  Guatemala,  and  even  Central 
and  South  America.  Who  knows?  With  a  management  pre- 
sided over  by  the  greatest  general  of  our  armies,  and  the  skilful 
organizer  of  our  railways,  it  is  possible  that  within  a  decade  of 
years  one  may  obtain,  over  the  "  Gould  System  "  of  roads,  a 
through  ticket  from  New  York  to  Panama,  or  from  St.  Louis  to 
Quito.  All  possibilities  seem  limitless,  after  an  inspection  of  the 
great  lines  of  the  Southwest,  thrown  into  Mexico  through  the 
force  of  genius  and  enterprise. 

The  muddy  Rio  Grande  was  bridged  by  the  railways  but  little 
over  a  year  ago,  until  which  time  it  had  always  been  crossed  by 
ferries.  It  was  in  the  dry  season  ;  at  that  time  it  was  but  a  gen- 
tle stream,  meandering  sluggishly  between  its  sandy  banks,  and 
which  a  man  could  almost  wade  across.  It  endured  the  igno- 
miny of  being  spanned,  without  remonstrance ;  but  as  the  melt- 


56o  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

ing  snows  fed  its  mountain  sources,  far  away  in  Colorado  and 
New  Mexico,  and  its  multitudinous  branches  swelled  its  current 
to  a  torrent,  it  then,  in  the  expressive  language  of  the  West, 
"just  humped  itself,"  and  bore  those  bridges  triumphantly  away 
to  the  Gulf  on  its  turbid  bosom.  But  it  is  not  always  that 
man  proposes  and  river  disposes,  for  the  structures  of  iron  and 
stone  now  built  will  be  able  to  defy  old  Rio  Grande  in  his  wild- 
est mood. 

The  bridge  we  crossed,  belonging  to  the  "  National,"  was  built, 
it  was  said,  in  eight  days.  The  distance  from  Laredo  to  Monte- 
rey, our  destination,  is  one  hundred  and  seventy  miles,  for  the 
road  does  not  directly  approach  it,  as  land  is  worthless  here,  and 
a  road  must  zigzag  over  the  country,  and  cover  a  good  deal  of  it, 
in  order  to  get  some  return  for  its  outlay.  It  would  seem  that 
Nature  intended  the  broad  and  arid  Rio  Grande  valley  to  be  for- 
ever a  dividing  line  between  the  two  republics ;  though  steam 
and  electricity  were  things  not  taken  into  account  in  the  original 
plan  of  the  continent,  so  that  excellent  roads  now  span  otherwise 
impassable  areas,  and  conduct  to  fertile  fields  beyond. 

The  frontier  is  crossed  at  about  seven  in  the  morning  by  the 
daily  train  which  reaches  Monterey  at  six  in  the  evening.  On 
the  ]\Iexican  side  of  the  frontier  the  luggage  is  examined  by 
gentlemanly  customs  officials,  and  later  on  the  road  a  polite 
young  man  makes  pretence  of  peeping  into  your  valise;  but 
further  than  this  there  is  no  inconvenience,  and  you  would  not 
know  that  the  smoothly-running  train  was  not  in  the  United 
States.  The  "  National  "  is  a  narrow-gauge  (three  feet),  but  the 
cars  are  wide  and  comfortable,  and  those  of  the  first  class  con- 
tain reclining  chairs.  For  three  hours  the  passage  is  through  a 
desolate  and  forbidding  country ;  then  the  mountains,  offshoots 
of  the  Eastern  Cordillera,  show  their  crests,  always  fantastic  in 
shape,  and  toned  by  distance  into  amethyst  and  purple.  They 
present  every  variety  of  outline :  conical,  jagged,  and  even  rec- 
tangular, the  most  conspicuous  example  of  this  last,  the  mesa,  or 
table-topped  hill,  being  opposite  the  town  of  Lampazos,  about 
seventy-five  miles  from  Laredo.  This  mesa  has  perpendicular 
walls,  a  thousand  feet  high,  it  is  said,  and  a  surface  of  nearly  a 


BY   RAIL  TO   NORTHERN   MEXICO.  561 

thousand  acres.  To  the  top  the  only  access  is  by  a  narrow,  zig- 
zag path,  which  only  a  man,  or  a  donkey,  can  ascend.  And  if  a 
man  is  very  much  of  a  donkey,  he  cannot  get  up  at  all.  Here, 
strange  to  say,  is  a  community  of  poor  people,  with  a  church 
and  a  school,  and  the  soil  is  fertile,  and  produces  great  crops  of 
corn  for  its  owner,  Senor  Milmo,  the  rich  banker  of  Monterey. 
Senor  Milmo,  by  the  way,  is  a  living  witness  to  the  fact  that  for- 
tunes have  been  made  by  foreigners  in  Mexico ;  for  he,  though 
Irish  by  birth,  married  the  daughter  of  a  rich  Jiacendado,  and  so 
acquired  his  money  and  his  mesa.  Richly  has  he  been  repaid 
for  whatever  sacrifice  he  may  have  made  in  leaving  the  stately 
halls  of  the  Emerald  Isle,  —  with  such  others  of  his  countrymen 
as  occasionally  condescend  to  honor  America  with  their  pres- 
ence, —  as  not  only  has  he  gained  to  himself  rich  store  of  gold 
and  pesos,  lands  and  cattle,  but  even  his  name  has  undergone  a 
transformation.  For  whereas  in  his  native  land  he  was  known 
only  as  plain  Pat  MuUins,  he  now  rolls  under  his  tongue  as 
a  sweet  morsel  the  sonorous  sobriquet  of  Senor  Don  Patricio 
Milmo ! 

Now,  why  does  not  Mexico  entice  thither  more  of  the  sons 
of  Erin?  What  have  we  of  the  United  States  to  offer  in  lieu 
of  such  distinction  as  this?  Nothing,  alas!  We  can,  indeed, 
bestow  upon  them  the  paltry  honors  and  emoluments  of  office ; 
but  what  avails  this  to  the  Celt,  whose  noble  nature  spurns  all 
lucre  as  dross?  Let  our  rulers  look  to  this.  Let  them  at  once 
enact  that  every  immigrant  be  addressed  as  a  "  Don  "  ;  else  New 
York  may  lose  many  influential  citizens,  and  Castle  Garden  be- 
come a  howling  wilderness ! 

At  the  station  of  Palo  Blanco  we  are  in  the  midst  of  a  region 
of  upland,  and  many  small  towns  are  passed  on  the  mesquit- 
covered  plains,  the  principal  of  which  are  Salado,  Lampazos, 
and  Villaldama;  but  they  are  not  on  the  railroad,  but  nestle 
far  away  at  the  foot  of  a  hill,  or  in  a  plain  where  a  darker  green 
indicates  cultivation  and  gardens.  Mines  reputed  wealthy  in 
galena  and  silver  —  or  in  traditions  of  them  —  give  a  certain 
importance  to  some  towns,  and  Bustamente,  sixty  miles  from 
Monterey,  is  celebrated  for  the  products  of  its  looms.     There 

36 


562  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

is  here  a  colony  of  Indians,  descended  from  the  Tlascalans 
who  fought  by  the  side  of  Cortes,  and  whose  ancestors  were 
sent  here  to  form  a  nucleus  of  civilization  in  the  centre  of  the 
barbarous  tribes  who  then  overran  the  "  Kingdom  of  Nuevo 
Leon." 

At  seven  o'clock,  and  sunset,  we  entered  a  gap  in  the  mountain 
wall  which  separates  the  valley  of  Monterey  from  the  wretched 
country  below,  and  were  in  an  entirely  different  region.  Hacks 
were  in  waiting  to  convey  us  to  the  city,  which  is  a  mile  distant 
from  the  station,  and  to  which  also  a  fine  tramway  leads. 

Perhaps  that  enterprising  American  who  built  the  tramway 
from  the  railroad  station  to  and  through  the  city,  whose  ex- 
penses are  about  a  hundred  dollars  a  day,  and  who  is  con- 
stantly experiencing  annoyances  from  the  civil  authorities,  — 
being  obhged,  among  other  things,  to  carry  a  policeman  on 
every  car,  who  promptly  returns  every  man  ejected  for  non- 
payment of  fare, —  rejoices  exceedingly  that  his  lines  have  been 
cast  in  such  a  pleasant  place.  It  is  presumed  that  he  expects 
to  recover  a  fair  interest  on  his  investment;  and  perhaps  he 
will,  if  the  powers  that  be  cannot  find  a  pretext  for  confiscating 
the  line,  and  turning  it  over  to  some  deserving  native, —  it  being 
well  known  to  the  Mexican  that  the  American  has  great  con- 
structive skill,  but  no  executive  ability.  Everybody  rode  at 
first,  from  the  novelty  of  the  thing,  but  everybody  did  not  pay; 
and  doubtless  the  proprietor  of  the  line  realized  the  difference 
between  his  position  and  that  of  the  owners  of  Northern  street- 
railways,  whose  patrons  pay  a  six-cent  fare  for  a  five-cent  ride. 
But  the  Mexicans  are  older,  as  a  people,  than  the  dwellers  of 
the  North,  and  perhaps  more  competent  than  they  to  deal  with 
grasping  monopolies. 

Monterey  lies  on  a  fertile  plateau  enclosed  by  spurs  from  the 
Sierra  Madre  Mountains,  at  an  altitude  above  the  sea  of  sixteen 
hundred  feet,  and  at  a  distance,  in  a  direct  line,  from  Mexico 
City  of  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  The  scenery  about 
Monterey  is  attractive,  especially  noteworthy  objects  being  the 
mountain  peaks.  One  of  these,  to  the  east,  is  known  as  La 
Silla,  or  Saddle  Mountain,  from  a  hollow  in   its   ridge  giving 


BY   RAIL   TO   NORTHERN    MEXICO. 


563 


it  the  appearance  of  a  Mexican   saddle,  and   the  other  as  La 
Mitra,  to  the  west,  which  reminds  one  of  a  bishop's  mitre. 

To  one  to  whom  the  Hispano- 
Mexican  architecture  is  a  novelty, 
the  city  must  seem  quite  attractive, 
with  its  enclosed  courts  blossom- 
ing with  flowers ;  but  types  of  its 
buildings  may  be  found  in  sev- 
eral of  the  earlier  chapters  of  this 
volume. 

The  city  was  founded  in  1590, 
although    upon  the    site  of  a   set- 


THE    PLAZA   AND   LA    MITRA. 


tlement  previously  made,  and  is  the  oldest  and   most  impor- 
tant of  Northern  Mexico.     The  climate  is  equable  and  salubri- 


364  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

ous,  and  in  the  gardens  and  orchards  are  found  fruits  of  the 
South,  as  well  as  of  the  North.  Like  Chihuahua,  it  carries  on 
its  commerce  chiefly  with  the  United  States,  and  since  the  com- 
pletion of  the  railroad  this  has  grown  rapidly ;  the  population 
has  nearly  doubled  in  the  past  decade,  and  now  numbers  forty- 
two  thousand.  The  buildings  of  note  are  the  hospital,  college, 
convent,  city  hall,  and  bishop's  palace.  This  last-named  build- 
ing, on  a  hill  to  the  west  of  the  city,  is  a  prominent  landmark, 
not  only  in  the  suburban  scenery,  but  in  the  history  of  modern 
Mexico.  In  September,  1846,  the  American  army  of  the  North 
had  advanced  as  far  into  Mexico  as  Monterey,  the  capital  of 
New  Leon,  and  the  key  to  all  the  northern  provinces.  In  the 
city  was  the  Mexican  general,  Ampudia,  with  10,000  men,  and 
this  force  the  Americans,  under  Taylor,  though  only  6,500 
strong,  assaulted  in  their  stronghold.  They  commenced  the 
attack  on  the  21st  of  September,  and  after  fighting  desperately 
from  street  to  street,  assailed  from  house-tops  and  terraces  by 
the  populace,  as  well  as  by  the  regular  soldiery,  they  penetrated 
to  the  central  plaza.  The  next  day,  the  strong  position  of  the 
bishop's  palace  was  carried  by  storm,  and  the  entire  force  of 
Ampudia  captured. 

El  Monte  Rey,  the  King's  Mountain,  was  for  many  years,  in 
early  times,  merely  a  frontier  post  of  the  advancing  Spanish 
civilization.  Its  location,  in  a  fertile  valley  supplied  with  large 
springs,  which  pour  forth  a  great  volume  of  water,  was  most 
advantageous  for  trade  with  the  Indians.  The  streams  from 
these  springs  flow  through  half  the  town,  and  about  their  banks 
are  clustered  the  mud  and  cane  houses  of  the  lower  classes.  In 
a  stroll,  one  morning,  I  encountered  a  full  company  of  soldiers 
industriously  washing  their  clothing,  and  the  while  it  was  dry- 
ing bathing  their  persons  in  the  swift  waters.  A  thing  that  will 
strike  a  stranger  as  anomalous  in  Mexico  is,  that  though  every 
shop  in  every  city  keeps  and  sells  vast  quantities  of  soap,  and 
though  everybody  in  the  neighborhood  of  a  stream  is  con- 
stantly washing,  both  himself  and  his  garments,  yet  every  per- 
son of  the  lovVer  order  is  as  dirty  as  though  just  dipped  in  a 
city  sewer.     As  this  fact  has  come  under  my  observation  through 


BY   RAIL  TO   NORTHERN   MEXICO.  565 

thousands  of  miles  of  travel,  I  have  at  last  come  to  the  conclu- 
sion that  personal  ablution  in  Mexico  is  done  by  proxy;  that 
is,  that  certain  ones  are  hired  to  exhibit  at  the  lavatories,  and 
thus  save  the  credit  of  the  more  respectable  of  the  community. 

A  great  effort  has  been  made,  of  late,  to  bring  Monterey  for- 
ward as  a  health  resort,  and  pamphlets  by  the  thousand,  the  work 
of  some  interested,  though  injudicious  author,  have  been  circu- 
lated, praising  the  city  to  the  skies.  There  is  certainly  much 
here  to  recommend  the  place  to  the  tourist.  Its  buildings  are 
old  and  quaint,  its  central  plaza  delightful,  its  altitude  above  the 
sea  sufficient  to  insure  a  pure  and  healthful  climate,  and  it  has, 
a  few  miles  away,  some  very  remarkable  mineral  springs.  But 
to  call  Monterey  an  "  Invalid's  Paradise  "  is  going  a  little  too 
far.  Because  there  are  no  American  hotels  of  note,  the  food  is 
vilely  cooked,  and  the  streets,  over  which  said  invalid  must 
be  jolted,  and  the  walks,  are  broken  and  full  of  holes.  There 
are  no  attractions  in  the  suburbs  to  which  an  invalid  would 
take  pleasure  in  walking,  for  the  city  is  completely  begirdled 
by  the  huts  of  the  lower  classes,  whose  squalor  and  misery  are 
not  exceeded  in  any  other  city  of  Mexico. 

Six  miles  distant  from  the  city,  and  a  mile  from  a  station  on 
the  "  National "  road  of  the  same  name,  are  the  hot  springs  of 
Topo  Chico.  There  are  two  of  them,  —  one  very  hot  (208° 
Fahrenheit),  and  the  other  an  arsenic  spring,  just  tepid.  As 
I  have  previously  remarked,  one  needs  to  forecast  events  at 
least  five  years,  in  writing  of  Mexico  in  1883;  and  it  may 
seem  uncharitable  to  mention  that  the  accommodations  for 
the  suffering  invalid,  who  has  been  lured  by  the  seductive  pam- 
phlets to  these  waters  of  rejuvenescence,  gushing  out  of  the 
"  Paradise  "  aforementioned,  are  utterly  wretched.  Yet  that 
is  the  cold  fact;  and,  until  the  great  hotel  goes  up,  which  is 
promised  maiiana,  and  until  the  present  horrible  hack,  without 
springs  and  with  the  hardest  of  boards  for  seats,  is  replaced 
by  a  luxurious  carriage,  I  would  advise  a  seeking  of  the  more 
accessible  thermal  waters  of  the  United  States.  With  good  ho- 
tels, one  at  the  springs  and  another  in  the  city,  Monterey  may 
some  time  claim  as  many  visitors  as  its  Californian  namesake. 


566  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

In  advance  of  the  railway,  and  on  its  completion,  there  had 
been  a  great  influx  of  Americans  into  Monterey,  and  the  streets 
were  tolerably  full  of  disappointed  fortune-seekers.  They  came 
here  as  to  a  new  country,  little  realizing,  until  too  late,  that  this 
very  city  was  old  when  our  republic  was  born,  and  that  the 
Mexican,  both  Spanish  and  Creole,  possessed  an  instinct  for 
trade  and  a  love  for  lucre  as  keen  as  the  shrewdest  Yankee  in 
our  country.  Beyond  establishing  a  few  cheap  bar-rooms,  they 
had  not  accomplished  much  in  the  matter  of  business,  and  even 
though  these  charged  a  real  for  a  glass  of  beer  or  lemonade, 
they  did  not  seem  to  be  making  money. 

Race  prejudice  is  stronger  here  than  in  the  interior,  for  the 
Border  States  have  suffered  more ;  and  if  any  one  imagines  that 
the  Mexican  is  disposed  to  allow  the  American  to  make  a  dol- 
lar, except  by  superior  skill,  he  misunderstands  the  prevalent 
feeling.  He  is  quite  willing  el  Americano  shall  spend  his  own 
money  in  the  building  of  railroads,  tramways,  and  hotels,  but  he 
will  resist  strenuously  any  attempt  to  capture  Mexican  trade. 

At  the  time  of  my  residence  in  Monterey,  the  papers  con- 
tained many  bitter  articles  against  "  the  North  American  inva- 
sion,"—  el  invasion  Norte  Americano,  — some  indeed  quite  able. 
The  Revista,  the  leading  journal,  advocated  government  aid  in 
favor  of  immigrants  of  the  Latin  race,  and  even  of  the  Mongo- 
lian, as  opposed  to  the  Saxon,  with  strong  arguments  in  favor 
of  the  first.  The  great  Saxon  wave  that  is  now  sweeping  over 
Mexico  is  of  course  irresistible,  and  the  Mexican's  recognition 
of  it,  and  of  his  own  impotency  in  arresting  it,  tends  to  enrage 
and  exasperate.  But  though  it  will  be  impossible  to  stay  the 
progress  of  that  southward-sweeping  deluge,  which  threatens  to 
obliterate  race  distinctions  and  even  the  autonomy  of  Mexico, 
yet  it  is  most  absurd  for  any  American  to  go  there  thinking 
to  wrest  a  living  from  the  soil.  In  the  plateau  it  is  mainly 
sterile;  in  the  tierra  caliejtte,  no  unacclimatized  immigrant  can 
long  survive  the  fatal  climate,  and  in  every  portion  there  are  In- 
dians by  the  thousand  ready  to  labor  for  less  wages  per  week 
than  would  purchase  the  meals  of  an  American  for  a  day. 

During  the  week  of  my  stay  in  Monterey,  four  murders  were 


BY   RAIL   TO   NORTHERN   MEXICO. 


567 


brought  to  popular  notice,  but  all  committed,  so  far  as  we  could 
learn,  by  aliens  from  over  the  Border.  One  of  these  was  so 
brutal  as  to  excite  comment,  even  amongst  the  Mexicans.  Two 
men,  named  Mudd  and  Leggett,  waylaid  and  shot  a  Swedish  rail- 
way contractor  named  Hickling,  as  he  was  driving  through  a 
lonely  canon  with  his  buggy  laden  with  silver  to  pay  off  his  men. 


THE    CATHEDRAL. 

They  were  captured  by  Mexican  police,  who  would  doubtless 
have  offered  no  opposition  if  the  threats  of  lynching,  freely 
made  by  the  employees  of  the  road,  had  been  carried  out. 

By  the  Mexican  law,  no  capital  punishment  could  be  inflicted; 
but  the  alcalde  of  the  village  near  which  the  murder  was  com- 
mitted thought  he  could  so  arrange  matters  that  the  chief 
actors  in  this  bloody  drama  should  be  shot,  and  an  accomplice 


568  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

sent  to  the  fortress  at  Vera  Cruz.  This,  I  beHeve,  was  done, 
though  it  was  after  I  left.  They  have  a  way  in  Mexico  of 
inflicting  the  extreme  penalty,  without  having  the  law  on  the 
statute-books,  which  is  quite  simple  and  effective.  The  judge 
remands  a  prisoner  guilty  of  murder  in  the  first  degree  to  another 
court,  or  orders  him  transferred  from  one  jail  to  another.  It  so 
falls  out  that  the  misguided  wretch  sees,  or  is  led  to  believe  that 
he  sees,  a  way  to  escape,  and  attempts  to  run.  Now  no  true 
Mexican  would  seek  to  establish  a  precedent  so  contrary  to  all 
the  traditions  of  the  country  as  to  indulge  in  rapid  locomotion, 
except  in  a  case  of  life  and  death,  and  where  his  own  was  the 
life  at  stake.  Thus  it  happens  that  the  soldiers  save  their 
dignity,  and  their  prisoner  at  the  same  time,  by  a  volley  from 
muskets  ready  charged  in  anticipation. 

Mexican  justice  was  not  likely  to  prove  tardy  in  this  case,  as 
the  alcalde  was  even  then  smarting  under  an  indignity  offered  to 
his  own  town.  But  a  few  days  previously  a  telegraph  operator 
had  shot  a  Mexican  "  accidentally."  Being  a  man  of  parts,  and 
perhaps  having  already  had  a  taste  of  Mexican  law,  he  at  once 
"  lit  out "  in  that  expeditious  manner  designated  in  the  South- 
west as  "  between  two  days."  The  authorities  immediately 
wired  those  below  in  Monterey  to  stop  the  culprit  as  he  passed 
through ;  but  the  operator  there,  being  an  American,  thought 
best  not  to  deliver  the  message  until  his  confrere  was  well  over 
the  Border.  Then,  being  a  prudent  man,  he  also  made  hurried 
preparations  to  depart  from  a  land  where  the  atmosphere  was 
not  favorable  to  the  transmission  of  electric  currents.  But  the 
jefc  politico,  with  an  alacrity  truly  wonderful  in  one  of  his  race, 
promptly  clapped  the  delinquent  into  the  calaboose, — cl  calabozo. 
It  being  represented  to  him,  however,  that  the  business  of  the 
line,  as  well  as  that  of  the  municipality,  would  suffer,  unless  he 
were  released,  he  was  forthwith  mulcted  to  the  tune  of  twenty- 
five  dollars  and  set  at  liberty ;  and  the  first  train  northward  car- 
ried him  likewise  across  the  Rio  Grande. 

The  third  man  concerned  in  the  murder  of  the  Swede  escaped, 
and  it  was  rumored,  and  afterwards  confirmed,  that  he  was  hiding 
in  the  very  house  in  which  I  was  stopping.      Our  landlady  was 


BY   RAIL  TO   NORTHERN   MEXICO. 


569 


an  exceedingly  able  woman,  who  had  "  roughed  it "  along  the 
line  for  a  number  of  years,  and  she  declared  that  she  knew 
Charley  H.  as  well  as  she  wanted  to,  and  while  she  had  little 
doubt  as  to  his  complicity  in  the  matter,  she  was  n't  "  going 
to  see  him  given  up  to  any Greaser;  but  if  a  white  man 


MEXICAN   BIT,    BRIDLE,    AND    SPURS. 

wanted  him,  that  was  a  different  thing."  One  evening,  at  dusk, 
a  horseman  rode  quietly  up  to  our  hotel  door  and  inquired 
for  the  landlady;  but  before  she  had  time  to  appear,  one  of 
the  loungers  about  whispered  something  in  his  ear  that  sent 
him  ambling  rapidly  down  the  street.      It  was  no  other  than 


570  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

the  mysterious  third  party,  whom  the  poHce  —  a  squad  at  that 
time  being  in  our  very  court  —  were  anxiously  looking  for; 
but  doubtless  before  another  sun  had  set  Texas  had  claimed 
another  recreant  citizen. 

Many  of  the  frontier  settlements  of  Mexico  are  yet  in  the 
condition  of  that  Western  colony  which  hung  a  tinker  for  an 
offence  of  the  blacksmith,  —  because  there  were  two  tinkers  in 
town  and  but  one  son  of  Vulcan.  Policy  plays  a  most  im- 
portant part  in  the  decisions  of  justice ;  and  hence  it  is  that 
the  Mexican  army  is  full  of  red-handed  murderers,  who  have 
only  escaped  being  shot  by  shouldering  muskets  and  becoming 
themselves  defenders  of  the  laws. 

In  an  enumeration  of  the  attractions  of  Monterey  I  should  not 
forget  the  Plaza  of  Zaragoza,  with  its  fountain  and  flowers,  with 
the  municipal  palace  on  one  side,  and  the  cathedral  on  the  other. 
In  the  palace  are  still  shown  three  of  the  muskets  with  which 
Maximilian  was  shot,  and  other  curiosities.  The  market  building, 
the  Parian,  towers  above  just  such  a  mat-covered  pavement  as  is 
described  in  my  chapter  on  the  markets  of  Mexico,  with  filthy 
women  and  miserable  men  crouched  beneath  frail  tula  shelters, 
and  guarding  contemptible  collections  of  fruit  and  vegetables. 
With  an  escort,  ladies  might  visit  the  bishop's  palace,  now  gone 
to  decay  and  used  as  military  quarters,  the  Campo  Santo,  or 
cemetery,  and  the  "  house  in  the  tree,"  where  a  small  structure 
is  perched  in  the  branches  of  a  giant  ceiba. 

The  bull-ring  of  Monterey  is  merely  an  enclosure  of  poles,  so 
frail  that  an  animal  of  spirit  could  demolish  it  in  a  single  furi- 
ous charge ;  not  an  amphitheatre  such  as  we  find  in  the  federal 
district.  Neither  are  there  here  any  genuine  Andalusian  bull- 
fighters, imported  from  Spain,  as  in  the  capital,  who  rarely  fail  to 
drive  the  rapier  straight  to  the  spinal  marrow ;  nor  was  my  blood 
stirred  by  the  rabble  in  Monterey  as  it  was  at  the  first  bull-fight 
I  saw  in  Mexico,  under  the  shadow  of  the  hill  of  Chapultepec. 
As  for  another  Mexican  institution,  the  cock-pit,  it  is  nothing 
more  than  a  circular  shed  with  thatched  and  pointed  roof. 

South  from  Monterey  a  diligence  formerly  ran  to  the  city  of 
Mexico ;   but  the  constantly  advancing  railroad  has  pushed  its 


I 
I- 


BY   RAIL  TO   NORTHERN   MEXICO. 


573 


terminal  stations  nearer  and  nearer  together,  until  it  now  merely 
covers  the  distance  as  yet  untraversed  by  the  iron  horse.  In 
company  with  the  General  Superintendent  of  the  "  National,"  I 
went  over  the  road  to  the  end  of  the  rails,  where  horses  and  an 
ambulance  were  in  waiting  to  convey  him  and  his  escort  south 
to  San  Luis  Potosi.  A  son  of  the  lamented  General  Ord,  a  dash- 
ing young  horseman,  accompanied  him  as  companero,  whom  I 
had  met  two  years  previously  with  his  father  in  Mexico  City. 


COCK-PIT,    MONTEREY. 

The  gallant  old  soldier  was  as  well  known  on  the  Border  as  the 
Mexican  General,  Trevino,  who  married  his  daughter,  and  whose 
aspirations  for  the  presidency,  as  well  as  his  capitulation  to  his 
opponent,  Diaz,  are  well  known.  We  had  an  excellent  dinner 
in  a  construction  car,  and  then,  after  gathering  the  details  of  the 
recent  murder  of  his  subordinate,  the  Swedish  contractor.  Super- 
intendent Gardner  gave  orders  to  march,  and  his  little  cavalcade 
tightened  their  saddle-girths,  buckled  on  rifle  and  revolver,  and 
were  soon  hidden  from  my  sight  in  a  cloud  of  dust. 


574  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

The  next  place  of  importance  south  of  Monterey  is  Saltillo, 
capital  of  the  State  of  Coahuila,  about  sixty-five  miles  distant, 
a  city  of  note,  containing  seventeen  thousand  inhabitants,  with 
cotton  factories  and  various  native  industries.  The  valley  in 
which  it  is  situated  is  considered  fertile.  The  town  lies  on  the 
slope  of  a  hill ;  its  streets  are  well  paved  ;  some  of  its  buildings, 
as  the  church  and  bull-ring,  are  worthy  of  notice,  and  its  ala- 
meda  so  fine  as  to  attract  the  attention  of  every  visitor.  About 
seven  miles  beyond  is  the  hamlet  of  Buenavista,  famous  for  the 
battle  fought  there,  on  the  23d  of  February,  1847,  between  the 
forces  of  General  Taylor  and  Santa  Anna.  The  result  of  that  bat- 
tle was  largely  due  to  the  almost  impregnable  position  selected 
by  Taylor  in  the  pass  of  Angostura,  where  Santa  Anna  could 
not  use  his  artillery  or  cavalry,  nor  derive  much  benefit  from  the 
great  numerical  superiority  of  his  infantry.  At  all  events,  the 
five  thousand  Americans  sent  ten  thousand  Mexicans  flying 
southward,  so  thoroughly  whipped  that  the  whole  northern  prov- 
ince remained  in  their  undisputed  possession.  Agua  Nueva, 
the  village  in  which  the  American  army  was  encamped  at  the 
approach  of  Santa  Anna,  lies  at  the  upper  end  of  a  beautiful 
vale,  called  La  Encantada,  —  the  Enchanted  Valley.  Not 
finding  this  an  advantageous  position,  Taylor  fell  back  to 
Angostura,  —  the  Narrow  Pass,  —  where  the  valley,  some  six 
miles  wide  below,  narrows  to  less  than  two. 

The  next  great  city  south  is  San  Luis  Potosi,  at  a  distance  of 
385  kilometres,  say  275  miles,  from  Monterey.  The  intervening 
country  is  remarkably  dry  and  sterile,  and  the  plains,  as  described 
by  a  recent  traveller,  "  dusty,  monotonous,  covered  with  cacti, 
aloes,  and  yucca,  —  yucca,  aloes,  and  cacti,"  —  almost  exclu- 
sively given  up  to  vast  haciendas  with  infrequent  towns  and 
ranchos.  It  is  in  the  main  a  wretched  and  thinly  populated 
region,  so  dry  that  wells  and  water-tanks  are  objects  of  interest, 
even  of  solicitude,  and  give  names  to  various  hamlets,  as  Agua 
Ntieva  and  Tanque  la  Vaca.  No  more  interesting  object  will 
be  seen  than  the  mountain  of  Catorce,  with  its  famous  mining 
town,  about  which  are  clustered  traditions  of  bonanzas  such  as 
few  silver  regions  can  lay  claim  to. 


BY    RAIL   TO   NORTHERN   MEXICO.  575 

San  Luis  will  interest  a  traveller  coming  from  the  North  as  a 
thoroughly  representative  metropolis,  in  streets  and  architecture, 
of  Southern  Mexico.  It  contains  numerous  churches,  which 
possess  excellent  paintings,  a  fine  cathedral,  and  an  attractive 
alameda.  The  famous  silver  mines  of  Potosi,  now  fallen  in  and 
neglected,  in  a  cerro  within  sight  of  the  city,  once  produced 
enormously,  and  from  one  of  them,  it  is  said,  was  obtained  the 
largest  piece  of  solid  gold  ever  found  in  America.  It  was  sent 
to  the  king  of  Spain,  who  in  return  gave  a  large  clock,  which 
may  be  seen  in  the  cathedral  to-day.  The  city  has  a  population 
of  forty-five  thousand,  and  is  destined  to  be  an  important  railway 
centre,  as  not  only  does  the  National,  coming  down  from  the 
north,  connect  it  with  Monterey  and  the  United  States,  and, 
passing  through,  extend  its  trade  to  Mexico  City,  but  a  branch 
of  the  Central,  leaving  the  trunk  line  at  Leon,  runs  through  to 
Tampico,  300  miles  distant,  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

Passing  beyond  the  southern  border  of  the  State  of  San  Luis, 
we  enter  the  great  and  famous  hacienda  of  Jaral,  which  was  — 
perhaps  is  now  —  the  largest  in  Mexico.  Half  a  century  ago, 
its  proprietor,  the  Marquis  of  Jaral,  was  reputed  the  largest  land- 
owner in  the  world,  owning  over  three  hundred  thousand  head 
of  live  stock,  and  slaughtering  annually  sixty  thousand  sheep 
and  goats.  His  hospitality  was  unbounded,  but  his  oppression 
of  the  peons  of  his  estate  bore  heavily  upon  them ;  he  even 
razed  the  houses  of  a  village,  and  scattered  the  inhabitants,  to 
prevent  them  from  getting  a  town  charter,  which  would  give 
them  control  of  the  land. 

Next  south  is  the  town  of  San  Felipe,  6,900  feet  above  the 
sea,  and  next  Dolores  Hidalgo,  chiefly  remarkable  as  the  parish 
of  the  Mexican  patriot,  Padre  Hidalgo,  where  the  first  note  of 
liberty  was  sounded,  in  September,  18 10.  Directly  south,  sit- 
uated in  the  midst  of  a  fertile  and  beautiful  champaign,  is  the 
flourishing  city  of  Celaya,  containing  thirty  thousand  inhabit- 
ants. Here  the  two  great  railroads  meet  and  cross ;  the  Central 
coming  up  from  Queretaro  and  Mexico,  and  the  National  from 
Acambaro  and  the  capital.  By  the  former  it  is  180  miles  to 
Mexico  City,  passing  through  Queretaro,  ancient  Tula,  and  the 


576  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

northern  entrance  into  the  valley ;  and  by  the  latter  200  miles, 
through  the  large  and  quaint  Indian  cities  of  Acambaro  and 
Maravatio,  and  the  beautiful  valley  of  Toluca. 

From  Saltillo,  on  the  24th  of  every  month,  a  condiicta,  or  sil- 
ver train,  starts  south  for  the  mines  of  Zacatecas,  in  charge  of  a 
noted  conductor,  who  has  safely  transported  millions  of  silver 
over  this  route.  He  has  a  band  of  excellent  mules ;  his  men 
are  trusty  and  armed  to  the  teeth,  and  his  reputation  is  such  that 
the  ladrones,  or  robbers,  always  give  him  a  wide  berth.  Being  a 
most  companionable  and  delightful  man,  he  sometimes  allows  a 
traveller  to  join  his  caravan,  and  treats  him  like  a  prince.  The 
march  is  leisurely  made,  the  noonday  halt  is  long,  abundant  time 
is  allowed  for  hunting,  and  the  fortunate  guest  is  entertained  with 
song  and  dancing  at  every  hacienda.  Notwithstanding  that  the 
completion  of  the  railroad  will  obviate  the  necessity  for  horse  or 
diligence,  I  think  that,  if  again  called  upon  to  make  the  south- 
ward journey  into  Mexico,  I  shall  seek  out  this  courteous  cabal- 
lero  and  attach  myself  to  his  conducta. 


XXVIII. 

ALONG  THE   RIO    GRANDE   VALLEY. 

WE  made  the  journey  down  from  Monterey  to  Laredo  in 
a  day  so  hot  that  the  ironwork  of  the  cars,  and  even  of 
the  reclining  chairs,  was  hardly  bearable  to  the  touch.  At  eight 
o'clock  of  the  morning  succeeding  I  boarded  a  pay-car  of  the 
Pecos  and  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  and  ran  north  some  thirty 
miles,  to  visit  the  coal-fields  which  that  line  had  but  recently 
entered.  We  reached  the  principal  mine,  San  Tomas,  at  ten, 
and  on  the  high  bank  of  the  Rio  Grande,  which  is  here  about 
a  gunshot  across,  found  an  excellent  dump  and  veins  of  coal, 
alternating  with  seams  of  slate,  two  and  three  feet  in  thick- 
ness. The  coal  is  semi-bituminous,  burns  freely,  is  easily  mined, 
and  the  capacity  of  the  company  is  not  equal  to  the  demand. 
The  main  drive  at  San  Tomas  is  about  a  thousand  feet,  with  an 
air-shaft  five  hundred  feet  from  the  entrance.  Some  twenty 
miles  beyond  is  another  deposit,  and  back  along  the  line  are 
several  experimental  shafts  searching  for  seams  of  sufficient 
width  —  five  feet  —  for  profitable  working.  The  great  want  of 
Mexico  is  coal,  with  which  to  supply  the  locomotives  of  the 
great  international  roads  ;  and  this  discovery  of  veins  on  the  Rio 
Grande,  right  at  the  Mexican  portal,  is  likely  to  prove  of  great 
value  and  convenience. 

Taking  a  "  sleeper  "  on  the  "  International  and  Great  Northern 
Road,"  I  departed  from  Laredo  that  night,  and  awoke  next  morn- 
ing at  San  Antonio,  which  place  I  had  left  ten  days  previously, 
after  a  most  delightful  night  of  repose.  If  any  place  in  the 
Southwest  could  tempt  me  to  depart  from  my  subject  awhile  and 
describe  other  sections  than  those  pertaining  to  Mexico,  it  would 
be  San  Antonio,  with  its  springs  and  parks,  old   mission  build- 

37 


578  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

ing,  and  most  perfect  climate.  But  if  we  linger  too  long  in  Bor- 
der land  we  shall  not  penetrate  the  region  beyond.  A  day  of 
delight  I  spent  in  San  Antonio,  and  then,  as  I  had  returned  this 
distance  northward  merely  to  make  connection  with  another 
portion  of  Old  Mexico,  I  took  train  westward  for  Eagle  Pass 
and  Piedras  Negras. 

Two  vast  systems,  the  Gould,  or  "  Missouri  Pacific,"  coming 
down  from  Saint  Louis,  and  the  Huntington-Pierce  combination, 
the  connecting  link  in  the  lengthy  chain  between  San  Francisco 
and  New  Orleans,  meet  here  and  cross.  The  "  Sunset  Route  " 
—  as  this  eastern  division  of  the  southern  transcontinental  line 
is  called  —  owes  its  existence  and  success  to  the  indomitable 
pluck,  faith,  and  energy  of  Col.  T.  W.  Pierce,  of  Massachu- 
setts, who  long  ago,  when  railroads  were  almost  unknown  in 
Texas,  projected  the  "  Galveston,  Harrisburg,  and  San  Antonio  " 
road,  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the  great  plains,  stretching 
away,  vast  and  unknown,  in  the  direction  of  the  Western 
Ocean.  Mile  by  mile,  almost  foot  by  foot,  struggling  against 
difficulties  almost  insuperable,  this  road  was  steadily  pushed 
forward,  until  it  at  last  reached  San  Antonio,  and  its  engineers 
were  received  with  ovations  by  the  delighted  inhabitants. 
Thence  it  sped  westward  into  the  region  of  sunset,  taking  its 
course  through  a  fertile  belt  of  counties ;  and  perhaps  might 
not  have  stopped  this  side  of  the  Pacific  itself,  had  not  expe- 
diency suggested  a  halt.  Eastward,  feeling  its  way  cautiously 
at  first,  but  later  progressing  by  impetuous  leaps,  another 
road  was  aiming  to  cross  the  vast  Texan  prairies.  Another 
man,  world-renowned  for  sagacity  and  bold  emprise,  C.  P. 
Huntington,  the  Railroad  King  of  California,  had  his  eye  upon 
this  same  territory.  The  result  was  a  compromise,  and  the 
"  Southern  Pacific  "  completed  the  connections  which  made  the 
Crescent  City  a  neighbor  to  the  Golden  Gate.  This  gigantic 
enterprise,  by  which  the  East  and  West  were  united  by  a  per- 
ennial route  with  a  summer  climate,  was  only  perfected,  and  the 
last  spike  driven,  four  months  previous  to  my  journey  over  it. 
Yet  here  I  was,  rolling  smoothly  along,  without  jolt  or  jar, 
over  a  road  perfect  in  every  appointment,  and  in  a  train  con- 


ALONG  THE   RIO   GRANDE   VALLEY. 


579 


taining  sleepers  and   palace  cars,  and  with  every  convenience 
for  travellers.     And  in  this  region,  formerly  so  famous  for  the 


/ 


/7 


^^-wm^wm. 


THE   HOTEL   PORTAL. 


exploits    of  the  Border  ruffian,    all  my  changes,  by  a  strange 
chance,  were  made  at  midnight,  in  quiet  and  perfect  security. 
It  was  twelve  o'clock  when  we  reached  Spofford  Junction, 


58o  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

where  I  left  the  Sunset  Route  and  took  its  Mexican  spur,  the 
"  International,"  for  Eagle  Pass  and  Mexico.  The  train  I  left 
sped  westward,  after  exchanging  news  with  the  "  California  Ex- 
press" going  eastward.  How  strange  it  seemed,  this  meeting  in 
the  night,  in  the  centre  of  an  arid  plain,  of  messengers  respect- 
ively from  the  Mississippi  and  the  Pacific !  The  place  of  meet- 
ing, named  after  the  attorney  of  the  road,  R.  S.  Spofford,  Esq., 
consisted,  at  the  time  of  my  arrival,  of  a  few  tents  and  shanties, 
while  the  land  about,  seen  by  moonlight,  seemed  sterile.  For 
all  that,  it  is  destined  to  be  an  important  station,  when  direct 
connections  are  made  with  the  North. 

In  the  gray  dawn  of  a  cool  morning  I  walked  through  the 
straggling  suburbs  of  Eagle  Pass  and  sought  a  hotel.  No  one 
was  stirring,  but  the  hotel  door  was  wide  open,  so  I  marched 
into  the  first  vacant  room,  lay  down  on  the  bed,  and  pieced  out 
my  broken  night's  rest  with  a  nap.  After  a  breakfast  of  good 
quality,  I  strolled  about  the  town,  and  then,  taking  my  "  grip- 
sack "  and  revolver,  went  over  the  Rio  Grande  into  Mexico. 
Eagle  Pass  possesses,  in  respect  to  local  attractions,  few  advan- 
tages over  Laredo,  its  rival  down  the  river.  Although  the 
natural  outlet  of  Mexican  trade,  lying  at  the  entrance  into 
the  most  fertile  region  of  the  Mexican  Border,  it  will  not 
progress  with  the  rapidity  of  the  southern  town,  but  ten  years 
hence  will  probably  be  a  more  prosperous  city.  My  reasons 
for  predicting  this  will  appear,  as  we  go  over  the  length  of 
railroad  already  built  into  Mexico. 

In  the  language  of  the  local  paper,  "  The  Maverick,"  which 
was  started  only  the  week  before  my  arrival,  Eagle  Pass  has 
had  no  "  great  big  boom" ;  but  since  the  advent  of  the  railroad 
within  her  precincts,  there  has  been  a  steady,  substantial  im- 
provement and  growth.  The  latest  and  surest  indications  of  an 
advanced  state  of  civilization,  ice  factories  and  telephones,  may 
be  found  here,  and  at  least  one  enterprising  merchant  has  run 
one  of  the  latter  across  the  Border,  as  witness  the  following 
from  the  paper  previously  mentioned:  "Jim  Riddle  has  placed 
his  Eagle  Pass  and  Picdras  Negras  stores  in  connection  by  a 
telephone.     We  have  heard  of  men  who  were  '  penny-wise  and 


ALONG   THE    RIO   GRANDE   VALLEY.  581 

pound-foolish,'  but  Jim  ain't  that  kind  of  a  hair-pin."  If  we 
needed  further  assurance  that  a  future  was  in  store  for  this  enter- 
prising town,  we  may  surely  find  it  in  an  item  to  the  effect  that 
"  Hop  Lee,  Esq.,  a  Celestian  of  great  experience  in  the  '  washee- 
washee '  line,"  had  opened  a  laundry  opposite  the  post-office. 

No  town  on  the  Border  is  going  to  retrograde  with  a  live 
paper  like  "  The  Maverick "  to  guard  its  interests ;  and  we 
heartily  join  in  the  invitation  extended  by  the  editor  to  a  con- 
temporary, to  "  shake  "  on  his  expressions  of  good  will. 

I  crossed  the  Rio  Grande  over  a  temporary  or  "  low-water " 
bridge,  which  had  been  thrown  over  in  six  weeks ;  the  perma- 
nent one  — if  one  can  be  permanent,  in  that  terrible  stream  of 
floods  and  surprises  —  was  then  building,  with  an  iron  super- 
structure, and  with  six  massive  piers  of  cut  granite  founded  on 
the  bed-rock  of  the  river.  The  town  on  the  Mexican  side  of  the 
river  is  Piedras  Negras,  attractive  despite  its  filth  and  the  squalor 
of  many  of  its  inhabitants.  It  is  of  stone  and  adobe,  and  lies  about 
a  mile  away  from  the  railroad  station,  which  was  then  surrounded 
with  tents,  and  houses  in  process  of  construction.  Presenting 
my  credentials,  I  was  permitted  to  pass  to  the  end  of  the  track, 
in  a  box-car  half  filled  with  railroad  ties,  which  every  jolt  of 
the  train  set  sliding  about  in  a  most  alarming  manner. 

Through  the  region  having  an  outlet  at  Eagle  Pass,  formerly 
ran  the  great  highway  from  Durango  and  Chihuahua  and  the 
rich  Laguna  country,  northward,  to  San  Antonio  and  St.  Louis. 
The  surface  is  nearly  level,  the  soil  fairly  fertile,  the  crops  of 
corn  quite  excellent,  and  the  fields  large,  only  needing  irriga- 
tion to  make  them  highly  productive.  Cultivation  is  not  now 
extensive,  as  all  available  labor  is  employed  on  the  railroad. 

An  immense  trade  was  formerly  conducted  over  this  route  by 
means  of  caravans,  or  trains,  which  also  ran  down  to  Chihuahua 
from  St.  Louis  by  way  of  Santa  Fd  and  El  Paso,  a  distance  of  over 
fifteen  hundred  miles ;  but  later  on,  from  Presidio  del  Norte 
and  San  Antonio.  All  this  is  changed  since  the  advent  of  the 
railroad ;  but  a  picture  of  the  trains  in  those  old  caravan 
days,  by  Mr.  Bartlett,  the  United  States  Boundary  Commis- 
sioner, may  not  come  amiss.     "  If  a  merchant  here  desires  to 


582 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


make  his  purchases  himself  in  New  York,  or  our  other  great 
markets,  he  must  leave  here  in  the  fall,  when  it  will  require 
forty  to  fifty  days  to  reach  his  destination  by  the  way  of  New 
Orleans,  His  goods  must  then  be  purchased  and  shipped  to 
Indianola,  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  to  be  sent  to  San  Antonio ; 
or  to  St.  Louis,  and  thence  by  water  to  Independence.  Now 
comes  the  most  difficult  part  of  the  transportation :  wagons, 
mules,  harness,  and  the  various  trappings,  must  be  purchased, 
and  teamsters  procured,  —  all  of  which  requires  much  time  and 


MEXICAN    CART. 


a  large  outlay.  The  large  Missouri  wagons,  which  carry  from 
5,000  to  5,500  pounds  each,  cost,  all  equipped,  from  $1,200  to 
$1,300  each,  and  twenty  of  these,  which  is  not  a  large  train, 
$26,000.  Then  each  team  must  have  its  teamster,  at  $25  per 
month,  and  a  wagon-master,  or  director  of  the  train,  at  $100. 
Besides  the  ten  mules  to  each  team,  fifteen  or  twenty  extra  are 
required,  as  on  their  long  journeys  accidents  cannot  be  avoided. 
Men  to  herd  and  take  care  of  the  animals  must  also  be  provided, 
and,  finally,  provisions  for  the  journey.  This  will  give  an  idea  of 
the  expense  of  fitting  out  a  caravan,  or  train  ;  and  if  the  merchant 
gets  back  with  his  goods  in  ten  months  from  the  time  he  left, 
without  encounters  from  hostile  Indians,  or  the  loss  of  any  of 


ALONG   THE   RIO   GRANDE   VALLEY.  583 

his  wagons  or  their  contents,  in  fording  streams  and  otherwise, 
he  may  consider  himself  fortunate." 

This  was  written  in  1852;  thirty  years  later,  the  railroad 
brought  with  it  a  change,  and  American  goods  now  flood  the 
market  of  Chihuahua  at  a  slight  advance  over  prices  prevailing 
in  the  North. 

Relics  of  that  age  of  wooden  wheels,  when  carts  without  a 
particle  of  iron  in  their  composition  were  solely  used  by  the 
native  Mexicans,  yet  survive.  All  along  the  Border,  as  well  as 
in  the  interior  of  Mexico,  we  meet  with  these  carretas,  with 
wheels  hewn  from  a  single  block  of  wood,  and  yoked  to  the 
patient  bulls  or  oxen  by  a  rigid  cross-bar  lashed  to  their  horns. 

My  companions  in  the  box-car  were  about  equally  natives 
of  Texas  and  Mexico,  whose  conversation  was  chiefly  of  bull- 
fights and  cock-pits.  Piedras  Negras,  they  declared,  was  full  of 
thieves  and  murderers,  —  all  Mexicans  according  to  the  Texans, 
but  all  Texans  according  to  the  Mexicans. 

From  the  foreman  of  the  gang  I  obtained  some  valuable  infor- 
mation regarding  the  difficulties  attending  railway  construction 
on  the  Border,  and  the  jealousy  with  which  the  Mexican  defends 
his  prerogative.  It  was  only  the  week  before,  he  said,  that  his 
hand-car  ran  down  a  "  Greaser  "  on  horseback,  by  which  half 
his  men  were  seriously  injured,  and  the  horse  killed.  Unfor- 
tunately, he  said,  the  Greaser  was  uninjured,  and  lay  in  wait 
for  an  opportunity  for  revenge,  and  shot  at  him  as  he  was  wiring 
a  telegraph  pole.  A  man  up  a  telegraph  pole  would  offer,  pre- 
sumably, a  fair  mark;  yet  the  Mexican  missed  him,  and  the 
railroad  man,  descending  hurriedly,  brought  him  to  terms,  after 
a  short,  though  exciting  chase. 

During  one  of  our  frequent  breakings-up  a  jug  of  molasses 
was  smashed,  which  proved  a  double  disappointment,  as  the 
men  thereby  lost  their  sweetening,  and  we  lost  our  seats  on 
the  floor.  At  about  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  reached 
the  end  of  track,  having  passed  two  towns  of  considerable  size, 
though  built  of  adobe  and  of  the  meanest  sort,  and  through 
fifty  miles  of  a  country  already  attracting  the  attention  of  Texan 
rancheros.      We  met  one  of  these  worthies,  a   stalwart  young 


584 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


American,  with  a  carbine  slung  to  his  saddle  and  a  six-shooter 
belted  about  his  waist,  guarding  a  large  flock  of  sheep. 

This  "  International  "  road,  the  Mexican  offshoot  of  the  "  Sun- 
set" system,  pursues  a  southwesterly  course  toward  the  capital 
of  Durango,  where  it  will  connect  with  the  Central  Railroad. 
If  continued  on  from  Durango,  it  will  end  eventually  at  the 
Pacific,  at  some  point,  depending  upon  a  practicable  pass 
throueh  the  Sierra   Madres  and  a  sheltered  harbor  with  navi- 


INTERNATIONAL   BRIDGE. 
(Over  the  Rio  Grande.) 

gable  channel.  It  will  thus  form  a  great  and  much-needed 
transcontinental  line  between  the  Eastern  United  States  and 
the  Pacific  Ocean ;  and,  as  it  is  being  built  without  subsidy,  it 
can  choose  its  own  route,  and  so  seek  out  the  territory  richest 
in  mining  and  agriculture.  It  enters  first  the  great  State  of 
Coahuila,  which  contains  t\vo  cities,  eleven  towns,  and  numerous 
haciendas  and  ranchos.  The  cities  of  Parras  and  Monclova  are 
flourishing,  productive  centres,  while  the  Sabinas  valley  con- 
tains bodies  of  extremely  fertile  land,  and  the  Laguna  country 
the  only  lakes  of  any  extent  north  of  Chapala  and  the  valley  of 
Mexico.     A  spur  southward  from  Monclov^a  can  connect  with 


ALONG  THE   RIO   GRANDE   VALLEY.  585 

the  "  National  "  system  at  Saltillo,  whence  is  a  straight  course 
to  San  Luis  Potosi  and  Mexico  City. 

This  system,  then,  when  perfected,  will  control  a  rich  agricul- 
tural region,  and  will  draw  to  itself,  by  branches  and  indepen- 
dent lines,  the  products  of  the  valuable  mines  of  the  sierras. 
Mining  operations  in  Coahuila  are  not  now  active,  but  were  for- 
merly, in  districts  now  deserted,  and  which  may  revive  with  the 
coming  of  the  railroad.  Iron,  in  a  pure  state  and  in  great 
masses,  is  found  in  the  Sierra  del  Valle,  and  at  other  points, 
and  copper,  lead,  amianthus,  nitre,  and  sulphur,  in  various  dis- 
tricts. A  great  furor  was  created,  a  few  years  ago,  about  the 
mineral  deposits  of  the  Sierra  Mojada,  which  lie  in  a  desert 
country,  one  hundred  miles  distant  from  the  nearest  centre  of 
population.  In  the  Government  Report  (Mexican)  one  hun- 
dred and  forty  mines  are  enumerated,  showing  nearly  every 
mineral  found  in  Mexico.  It  is  supposed  that  this  region  will 
be  profitably  opened  again  when  entered  by  the  railroad,  and 
hidden  mines  brought  to  light  that  the  wild  nature  of  the  coun- 
try has  hitherto  kept  secret. 

At  the  construction  camp,  where  I  was  given  a  bunk  by  the 
physician  in  charge,  and  dined  with  the  well-known  contractors, 
the  Monroe  Brothers  of  California,  I  had  an  excellent  opportu- 
nity of  witnessing  the  wonderful  operation  of  track-laying.  At 
half-past  six  next  morning,  the  advance  engine  blew  its  whistle 
for  all  hands  to  report  for  duty,  and  started  for  the  front,  pushing 
ahead  of  it  a  long  line  of  platform  cars  laden  with  ties  and  rails. 
Each  car  contained  thirty  rails,  fifteen  on  a  side,  sufficient  for 
four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  of  track.  A  mule  pulled  it  to  the 
end  of  the  rails  laid  the  day  preceding,  when  four  men,  armed 
with  powerful  tongs,  seized  a  rail,  two  on  each  side,  and  ran  it 
out,  before  the  car  had  well  come  to  a  halt.  "  Steady,"  says 
the  foreman ;  "  drop,"  and  it  falls  with  a  clang  on  the  sleepers, 
while  the  other  side  does  the  same ;  the  old  mule  draws  the  car 
ahead,  and  the  process  is  repeated.  Sharp  after  them  come  the 
spikers,  two  sinewy  negroes  in  advance,  who  drive  so  rapidly 
that  their  strokes  keep  up  a  running  clatter,  and  who  do  all  the 
heavy  work,  the  Mexicans  not  being  up  to  it.      Four  gangs  then 


586  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

follow  behind  the  iron-layers  on  each  side  of  the  track,  each  one 

taking  every  fourth  spike ;  meanwhile  men  are  screwing  up  the 
bolts  and  nuts,  and  boys  are  dropping  and  gathering  up  the 
spikes ;  and  before  one  has  ceased  to  wonder  at  the  rapidity  at 
which  the  work  goes  on,  the  load  is  laid,  and  another  is  brought 
up ;  the  procession  constantly  moves,  leaving  behind  it  an  iron 
trail  which  progresses  at  the  rate  of  over  a  mile  a  day. 

At  ten  o'clock  the  telegraph  men  came  along  with  a  hand-car, 
on  which  was  a  revolving  creel  of  wire,  which  was  run  out  as 
they  went  along.  A  man  took  a  loop 'of  wire,  climbed  a  pole,  — 
not  one  was  in  sight  at  daybreak,  —  and  attached  it,  while  two 
companions  tightened  it  on  the  stretch  ahead.  Connection  was 
made  with  our  car  by  a  copper  wire,  and  we  were  in  correspond- 
ence with  all  the  world,  in  a  country  which  had  been  surveyed 
less  than  ninety  days,  in  a  valley  in  which  not  a  tie  spanned  the 
road-bed  ten  days  previously,  and  at  a  point  at  which  the  rails 
supporting  our  car  were  only  dropped  the  day  before  ! 

Even  so  progresses  the  "  North  American  invasion,"  from  four 
several  points  at  once,  and  constantly  moving  its  advance  guard 
a  mile  a  day  nearer  the  Mexican  capital.  Well  may  it  cause  the 
reflecting  Mexican  to  tremble,  and  the  unthinking  to  wonder ! 
Here,  as  at  Monterey,  the  "  Greaser  "  makes  his  feeble  protest 
against  the  inevitable  advance ;  he  cannot  block  the  wheels  of 
the  engine,  but  he  can  annoy  the  engineer ;  so  he  rides  his  horse 
over  the  track,  heedless  of  warning  whistle,  and  drives  his  cattle 
in  front  of  the  locomotive.  Down  in  the  interior  of  the  republic 
one  of  these  conceited  rancheros  tried  to  stop  an  engine  by  lasso- 
ing the  smoke-stack ;  as  the  lariat  was  a  tough  one,  and  firmly 
attached  to  the  saddle,  it  may  not  be  necessary  to  add  that  he 
did  not  repeat  that  experiment, —  at  least  not  in  Mexico. 

From  the  coming  of  the  steam-horse,  indeed,  a  new  industry 
has  sprung.  Formerly,  the  scurvy  and  hide-bound  cattle  of  this 
region  were  considered  dear  at  ten  dollars  a  head ;  now,  they 
are  scarce  at  fifty.  And  why?  Because  the  Mexican  has  passed 
a  law  that  every  animal  killed  on  the  road  shall  be  paid  for  to  the 
tune  of  sixty  dollars  !  And  now  these  guileless  "  Greasers  "  are 
flockine  to  the  railroad  with  their  flocks  and  herds.     Goats  and 


ALONG   THE   RIO   GRANDE   VALLEY.  587 

sheep,  emaciated  cows  and  bulls,  are  as  thick  along  the  track 
as  tenpins  in  an  alley ;  no  sooner  is  one  knocked  over  than  its 
place  is  taken  by  another,  urged  up  the  bank  by  its  exultant 
owner. 

The  engine  emits  a  constant  whistle  of  alarm,  while  the  engi- 
neer pours  out  a  stream  of  blasphemy  that  would  terrify  any  but 
a  Mexican,  to  whom  profanity  is  as  mother's  milk.  The  very 
first  telegram  that  came  over  the  wire  to  our  car  was  to  warn  the 
road-master  that  the  captain  of  police  was  in  waiting  for  him  up 
the  road,  as  an  old  ten-dollar  bull  had  been  killed  the  day  before, 
and  the  grief  of  its  owner  was  great.  At  the  same  time,  a  Mex- 
ican was  killed,  —  probably  as  he  was  pushing  the  bull  on  to  the 
track;  and  as  the  engineer  had  "  skipped  the  Border,"  the  only 
thing  clear  to  the  officials  now  was  to  calaboose  the  road-master. 
The  gentleman  whose  presence  was  so  much  desired  by  them 
was  my  companion  back  to  the  river ;  and  he  went  very  cheer- 
fully, with  the  prospect  of  that  calaboose  in  the  distance.  But 
he  was  disposed  to  take  a  somewhat  sinister  view  of  the  "  Mexi- 
can movement,"  I  fear,  from  some  remarks  he  casually  let  drop 
on  the  way. 

"  Now,"  said  he,  calling  my  attention  to  the  letters  painted  on 
every  car,  —  F.  C.  I.  M.,  —  "what  do  you  suppose  those  stand 
for?  " 

"  Why,  that,  I  presume,  is  an  abbreviation  for  the  name  of  the 
company,  in  Spanish,  —  Ferro  Carril  Internacional  Mexicana." 

''  No,  sir,"  said  he,  with  emphasis,  "  it  means  Fools  Caught  in 
Mexico,  in  the  ranks  of  which  your  humble  servant  does  n't 
propose  to  train  any  longer  than  he  can  help." 

He  informed  me  that  the  road  was  being  laid  with  fifty  and 
sixty  pound  rails,  the  former  from  England  and  the  latter  from 
Germany,  which  are  admitted  in  bond,  duty  free,  at  New  Orleans. 
The  Mexican  laborers  he  found  willing  to  work,  though  weak  at 
first,  but  they  rapidly  improved  with  good  food,  to  which  all  their 
lives  they  have  been  strangers. 

We  started  back  on  a  grain  car,  receiving  a  cheerful  send-off 
from  the  telegraph  operator,  to  the  effect  that  five  men  had  been 
murdered  up  the    track   by  the   Kickapoos,  —  which  we  fully 


588  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

believed  ;   and  that  four  Kickapoos  had  been  killed  by  the  Mexi- 
can soldiers,  —  which  we  doubted. 

The  car  was  filled  with  dirty  Mexicans,  who  were  most  intol- 
erably saucy,  but  with  whom  we  were  soon  quits,  by  leaving 
them  switched  off  on  a  siding  till  morning,  while  we  travelled  for 
the  Border  on  the  engine.  It  was  just  sunset  as  we  slid  away, 
and  left  them  howling  lamentations  at  being  left  to  the  mercies  of 
Los  Indios  barbaros,  the  Kickapoos.  I  don't  believe  there  were 
ten  Indians  in  the  State ;  but  even  one  is  enough  to  cause  a  vil- 
lage full  of  Mexicans  to  run  like  smitten  curs. 

Reaching  the  Rio  Escondido,  or  Lost  River,  we  found  the 
rails  only  "  fourth-spiked,"  but  we  rattled  over  them  safely,  stop- 
ping to  take  water  at  the  end  of  the  bridge.  Our  road-master, 
thinking  to  astonish  the  keeper  in  charge  of  the  water-tank,  who 
lived  here  all  alone,  gave  out  that  seventeen  men  had  been 
murdered  down  the  track,  that  all  the  section  hands  had  fled, 
and  that  we  had  five  Kickapoo  "  stiffs  "  aboard,  being  all  we  had 
"  saved  "  of  a  party  of  fifty  or  more.  To  which  information  the 
waterman  calmly  replied,  that  he  guessed  the  boys  down  the 
track  had  forgotten  how  to  use  their  Winchesters.  This  was  a 
rebuke  to  our  friend,  who  said  no  more  about  the  mythical 
"  stiffs,"  and  we  went  on  without  delay  to  the  Rio  Grande. 

Orders  from  the  superintendent  arrested  our  engine  on  the 
southern  bank  of  the  river,  and  an  alcalde  and  posse  arrested 
our  road-master,  before  he  could  secure  his  "  grip  "  and  a  few 
necessary  articles,  and  shake  from  his  heels  the  mud  of  this  land 
of  "  God  and  Liberty."  We  could  not  help  him,  and,  as  he  went 
off  to  cool  his  heels  in  the  calaboose,  he  earnestly  advised  us 
to  depart  at  once  from  this  wretched  region,  unless  we  wished 
to  swell  the  ranks  of  the  "  fools  caught  in  Mexico,"  with  various 
phrases  reflecting  on  the  officials,  which  it  is  needless  to  repeat. 

The  moonlight  guided  us  over  the  low-water  bridge  and  along 
the  river-bottom,  a  mile  or  so,  to  the  town,  where  I  reached  the 
hotel  at  about  eleven  o'clock,  and  in  company  with  a  young  man 
who  had  been  "  run  out "  of  the  Sabinas  valley  on  account  of 
some  infirmity  of  temper.  I  inquired  what  it  was  that  had  par- 
ticularly incensed  the  Mexicans,  and  he  said  that  it  was  only  be- 


ALONG   THE   RIO   GRANDE   VALLEY.  591 

cause  they  could  n't  understand  his  Spanish.  He  had  given  his 
orders  to  them  in  a  tone  loud  enough  to  be  heard  over  the  entire 
valley  of  the  Sabinas,  but  they  persisted  in  not  understanding 
him.  "  And  so,"  he  continued,  "  I  pulled  out  a  six-shooter  and 
said,  '  You  miserable,  God-forsaken  yeller-bellies,  and  scum  ot 
soap-grease,  do  you  understand  that?'  " 

"  And  did  they?  " 

"  Well,  I  should  smile.  D'  you  s'pose  I  'd  leave  a  good 
position  of  a  hundred  and  fifty  a  month,  and  found,  if  I  did  n't 
have  to?  " 

I  left  Eagle  Pass  with  the  silvery  moonlight  flooding  its  sandy 
streets ;  another  midnight  connection  placed  me  aboard  the 
California  Express,  and  I  awoke  next  morning  at  the  Pecos 
River.  The  scenery  here  is  grand  enough  to  warrant  a  visit 
for  no  other  purpose  than  to  view  it,  for  the  track  runs  along 
the  Rio  Grande,  beneath  stupendous  cliffs  hollowed  into  natural 
caves.  We  crossed  the  Rio  Pecos  at  Painted  Cave,  224  miles 
from  San  Antonio,  over  an  iron  bridge  that  seemed  hundreds  of 
feet  above  the  foaming  river,  while  the  mighty  walls  of  rock  tow- 
ered high  over  the  solitary  station  and  the  slender  structure  that 
spanned  the  chasm.  Above  the  Pecos,  the  water  of  the  Rio 
Grande  seems  clear  and  blue ;  below  it,  yellow  and  turbid. 
Both  rivers  flow  rapidly  along  between  gaunt  and  gray  rock- 
ribbed  banks,  where  the  vegetation  is  solely  bear-grass,  and 
yucca,  and  bright  flowers,  with  no  succulent  grass,  and  no  living 
thing  in  sight. 

Twenty  miles  farther  on  is  Langtry,  where,  in  a  construction- 
car  switched  off  on  a  siding,  we  found  an  excellent  breakfast 
awaiting  us.  There  were  no  buildings  here  but  the  station,  yet 
I  read  in  an  El  Paso  paper  of  that  week,  "  A  big  boom  seems 
to  have  struck  Langtry  on  the  '  Sunset';  the  deputy  surveyor 
of  Pecos  County  is  consulting  with  Mr.  Roy  Bean  about  laying 
off  lots  for  a  hotel  and  a  stockyard  in  this  enterprising  town." 
I  said  to  myself,  as  I  read  this  item,  that  "  big  boom  "  must  have 
knocked  all  the  buildings  clean  out  of  the  place ;  but  the  real 
significance  of  the  paragraph  is  shown  in  an  additional  morsel 
of  news :  "  Mr.  Roy  Bean  is  now  ready  to  sell  a  few  choice  lots 


592  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

in  this  enterprising  city."  Yet  I  am  ready  to  believe,  know- 
ing the  astonishingly  rapid  growth  of  those  frontier  towns,  that 
Langtry  may  be,  at  the  present  time  of  writing,  a  large  and 
flourishing  place. 

Our  dinner  we  took  at  Maxon  Springs,  350  miles  from  El 
Paso,  where  the  usual  fine  station  buildings  and  water-tank,  with 
a  telegraph  office  in  a  side-tracked  baggage  car,  comprised  the 
town.  Beyond  the  curious  hills  which  surround  this  place,  we 
passed  a  "  prairie  schooner  "  and  a  Mexican  ox-team,  encamped 
to  escape  the  oppressive  heat,  while  their  poor  animals  sought 
vainly  for  a  dinner  off  the  parched  and  scanty  herbage.  It  was 
a  dreary  country,  the  only  other  animate  objects  in  view  being 
the  Chinese  section  hands,  whose  tents  of  flimsy  canvas  we 
occasionally  passed,  a  hawk  now  and  then,  or  a  coyote.  A 
fellow-passenger  aptly  pictured  it,  in  a  single  sentence,  as  a 
region  so  poor  that  even  a  crow  "  Avould  have  to  tote  his  rations 
over  it." 

But  the  land  improves  as  we  go  westward,  and  at  Mur- 
physville,  230  miles  from  El  Paso,  an  active  goat  might  get 
a  good  day's  feed  from  less  than  an  acre.  Twenty-five  miles 
back  from  this  station  is  Fort  Davis,  an  important  military  post, 
and  southwest,  about  eighty  miles  distant,  on  the  Rio  Grande,  is 
Presidio  del  Norte,  once  an  important  frontier  town  and  the  future 
initial  point,  perhaps,  of  the  Mexican  branch  of  a  transcontinen- 
tal railroad.  The  run  to  Valentine,  159  miles  from  El  Paso,  is 
over  finer  territory,  which  is  eagerly  sought  by  rancheros,  who 
are  willing  to  pay  even  four  dollars  an  acre  for  it,  as  they  are 
crowded  out  of  the  better  lands  to  the  north  and  east.  At 
Valentine,  which  is  a  coaling  station,  with  extensive  sheds,  a 
turn-table,  and  a  round-house,  we  got  an  excellent  supper,  and 
then  steamed  on  again,  over  a  road  everywhere  smooth  and  ex- 
cellent, with  fat  and  lively  deer  skipping  off  towards  the  hills, 
coyotes  loping  away  from  the  track,  and  prairie-dog  villages 
appearing  one  after  the  other.  Darkness  settled  about  us,  leav- 
ing the  impression  that  we  had  now  reached  a  land  of  plenty, 
and  we  saw  no  more  of  Texas  until  three  o'clock  next  morning, 
when  we  ran  into  El  Paso. 


ALONG  THE   RIO   GRANDE   VALLEY. 


595 


An  omnibus  was  in  waiting,  and  into  it  I  climbed,  but  had 
hardly  seated  myself  when  the  vehicle  —  which  had  rumbled 
off  with  great  flourish  and  bluster  —  stopped,  and  the  frouzy- 
headed  conductor  poked  his  face  in  and  said,  "  Fork  over! " 

"  How  much?  " 

"  Half-dollar." 

"  All  right,  drive  on." 

"  On  where?  " 

"  Why,  to  the  hotel,  of  course." 

"  That's  just  where  we  be  now,  stranger." 

I  was  too  sleepy  to  expostulate  over  the  extortion,  but  de- 
scended to  the  "  office,"  registered,  and  was  assigned  a  room  at 
the  "  Central,"  then  the  largest  hotel  in  town,  and  by  all  odds 
the  dirtiest  in  the  State,  though  fairly  served.  El  Paso,  situated 
in  the  extreme  western  part  of  Texas,  lies  500  miles  from  Spof- 
ford  Junction  and  633  from  San  Antonio.  In  approaching  it, 
I  had  run  along  two  sides  of  an  obtuse-angled  triangle  through 
the  great  State  of  Texas,  leaving  out  any  trips  southward  from 
Eagle  Pass  and  San  Antonio,  comprising  above  a  thousand  miles 
across  its  territory  alone.  The  town — whose  inhabitants  will 
doubtless  be  mortally  offended  because  I  do  not  call  it  a  city 
—  is  about  half  a  mile  across,  and  situated  in  the  centre  of  a 
verdureless,  mud-colored  plain,  with  a  semicircle  of  gravelly 
hills  on  one  side  and  the  Rio  Grande  on  another. 

Its  buildings  are  mainly  new,  as  houses  of  wood  and  brick  are 
fast  replacing  the  old  adobe  hovels ;  there  are  several  hotels, 
numerous,  large,  and  well-supplied  stores,  two  banks,  many  good 
residences  going  up  in  the  suburbs,  and  plenty  of  room  for  ex- 
pansion. There  are  several  newspapers  here,  one  of  which, 
"  The  Times,"  displays  energy,  ability,  and  enterprise. 

There  are  abundant  indications  that  El  Paso  will  grow  to  the 
proportions  of  a  great  and  perhaps  attractive  city,  as  it  has  an 
advantageous  situation,  nearly  four  thousand  feet  above  sea  level, 
and  is  entered  by  several  great  railroads.  The  "  Sunset  Route" 
passes  through  it  from  east  to  west ;  the  Texas  Pacific  meets  it 
here,  affording  the  shortest  route  directly  across  Northern  Texas 
to  St.  Louis;   and  the  Atchison,  Topeka,  and  Santa  Fe  comes 


596  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

down  from  the  North,  across  New  Mexico  and  a  most  attractive 
country,  from  the  Missouri  River.  Nearly  all  the  progress  of 
El  Paso  is  recent,  and  is  due  to  these  railroads. 

The  valley  in  which  El  Paso  is  situated  is  from  a  mile  to  three 
miles  wide,  and  nearly  forty  miles  in  length,  possesses  a  soil 
which  is  extremely  productive  when  well  irrigated,  yielding  ex- 
cellent crops  of  wheat  in  particular,  and  its  climate  is  remarkably 
fine,  equalling  that  of  Santa  Fe  and  Mexico  City.  Above  the 
town  is  a  small  kiosk,  perched  on  a  spur  of  the  hills,  whence  is 
obtained  a  delightful  view,  at  the  feet  of  the  observer,  over  the 
town  and  down  the  Rio  Grande  valley ;  where  the  river  runs  is 
green,  while  all  else  is  brown  and  bare,  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach,  even  to  the  distant  mountains  of  Chihuahua.  The  banks 
of  the  Rio  Grande  —  the  Rio  Bravo  del  Norte  —  here  are  low 
and  easily  approached,  while  at  Eagle  Pass  and  Laredo  they  are 
high  ;  though  the  volume  of  water  is  not  appreciably  less  and  the 
current  is  rapid ;  this  town  also  suffers  from  the  terrific  storms 
of  sand  that  affect  the  settlements  farther  down  the  river. 

Water-works  now  supply  the  city,  and  street-cars  run  from 
the  principal  depots  through  the  town  and  over  the  river  to  the 
Mexican  settlement.  Two  bridges  here  cross  the  Rio  Grande, 
one  belonging  to  the  Central  Railroad,  and  the  other  to  the 
municipality. 

Across  the  river  from  El  Paso  is  Paso  del  Norte,  the  most 
northerly  town  of  any  size  in  Mexico,  as  well  as  the  oldest  in  this 
region,  having  been  founded,  as  a  mission,  at  or  near  the  close 
of  the  seventeenth  century,  probably  in  1680.  It  is  an  unpre- 
tentious mud  village,  which  is  content  to  remain  so,  if  those 
restless  Americanos  from  over  the  Border  will  only  allow  it  to. 
But  they  will  not,  and  the  Yankee  "  City  of  the  Pass,"  like  La- 
redo, is  pushing  its  apathetic  Mexican  sister  into  prominence. 
About  the  only  buildings  not  of  adobe  are  those  composing  the 
offices  of  the  Mexican  Central,  while  the  other  conspicuous  and 
native  structures  are  the  old  church  and  the  mud  fort.  Both 
are  ancient,  but  the  church  is  of  great  age,  dating  probably  from 
that  period  when  the  Spaniards  were  driven  south  from  Santa 
Fe  by  the  Pueblo  Indians.      Amongst  a  heap  of  old   church 


ALONG   THE   RIO   GRANDE   VALLEY.  599 

registers  thrown  carelessly  into  a  corner  of  the  chapel,  I  saw 
one  of  the  year  1682.  The  sexton  who  displays  them  is  a  curi- 
osity of  the  Border,  and  will,  for  a  small  fee,  eagerly  conduct 
visitors  through  the  little  church. 

I  secured,  and  herewith  present,  a  picture  of  the  interior 
of  that  lonely  church  on  the  Mexican  Border,  which  was  far 
more  interesting  to  me  than  that  of  the  great  cathedral  in  Mex- 
ico City,  since  its  ornaments  and  paraphernalia  are  reduced 
to  the  simplest  requirements  for  confessional  and  pulpit  ser- 
vice, and  the  requisite  decoration  of  Virgin  and  altar-piece. 
Add  in  imagination  a  group  of  kneeling  figures  before  the  altar 
rail,  and  you  have  all  the  characteristic  features  of  a  church 
interior  throughout  Mexico.  Farther  into  the  republic,  the 
houses  of  worship  are  more  lavishly  adorned,  but  here,  doubt- 
less, the  clergy  feared  to  make  the  usual  display  of  gilded  carv- 
ing and  paste  ornaments,  lest  the  cupidity  of  the  Border  ruffian 
should  excite  him  to  lay  sacrilegious  hands  thereon.  A  grateful 
coolness,  even  in  the  hottest  weather,  always  pervades  these 
churches,  owing  to  the  thickness  of  their  walls,  whether  of 
stone  or  adobe.  Great  beams,  ornately  carved  in  lilies  and 
roses,  support  the  tiled  roof  of  this  particular  structure,  which  is 
not  so  high  as  some  sanctuaries  I  have  seen  in  Indian  pueblos. 

The  population  of  this  town,  of  about  five  thousand  inhab- 
itants, differs  in  no  particular  from  that  of  the  southern  settle- 
ments of  the  Border,  but  the  place  itself  is  more  attractive.  In 
front  of  the  church  is  a  barren  plazuela,  which  lies  at  the  head 
of  a  valley  that  follows  the  river  on  its  course  for  many  a  mile, 
and  here  is  held  the  market,  which  is  well  worth  inspection. 

Irrigation  brings  fertility  to  fruitful  gardens,  and  vineyards 
which  produce  excellent  grapes,  and  raisins  which  are  eaten 
stewed  like  plums.  El  Paso  wine  is  in  great  demand,  as  it  has 
a  strong  body  and  has  the  flavor  of  Malaga,  when  mellowed  by 
age.  The  grape  is  large,  blue,  rich,  and  juicy,  though  a  white 
variety  is  raised  with  the  taste  of  Muscadine.  A  population  of 
above  fifteen  thousand  supports  itself  upon  the  products  of  the 
valley,  and  the  wheat,  pears,  peaches,  onions,  and  apples  of  the 
cooler  portions  of  the  mountain  range. 


6oo 


TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 


But  with  the  exception  of  the  fruit  trees,  and  the  willows 
and  poplars  of  the  river-banks,  the  chaparral  is  about  the  only 
vegetation  of  the  region.  "  The  exquisite  climate,  at  a  level  of 
nearly  four  thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  and  these  environs 
of  cultivated  land,  contrasting  forcibly  in  their  vivid  green  with 
the  gray  alluvial  hills,  and  rocky  mountain  crests,  impart  to  the 
place  a  charm  peculiar  to  all  the  scenery  of  Northern  Mexico, 
which  has  something  Levantic,  or  of  a  North  African  character," 
Its  gardens  and  vineyards,  and  its  slow-running  acequias,  mean- 
dering through  narrow  streets  and  adobe  walls,  give  to  Paso  del 
Norte  an  aspect  different  from  other  frontier  towns,  as  if  a  frag- 
ment of  Southern  Mexico  had  been  transported  here  across  the 
intervening  deserts. 


XXIX. 

CHIHUAHUA,   THE   GREAT   FRONTIER   STATE. 

AT  the  time  of  the  revolt  of  the  Indians  of  New  Mexico,  in 
1680,  the  Spanish  colonists,  driven  out  of  Santa  Fe, 
retreated  southward  along  the  Rio  Grande  to  Paso  del  Norte, 
—  the  North  Pass,  —  where  they  intrenched  themselves,  and 
remained  until  reinforcements  reached  them  from  Mexico. 

The  most  fertile  valleys  in  the  Rio  Grande  region  lie  to  the 
northward  of  El  Paso,  and  were  occupied,  even  long  before  the 
arrival  of  the  Spaniards,  by  Indians,  who  dwelt  in  settled  com- 
munities, and  were  partially  civilized.  These  Pueblo  Indians 
had  not  penetrated  into  the  territory  now  pertaining  to  Old 
Mexico,  unless  the  ruins  of  the  Casas  Grandes  —  to  which  I 
shall  allude  further  on — belong  to  them,  and  are  found  mainly 
in  New  Mexico  and  Arizona.  Coming  down  from  the  north, 
pursuing  the  course  followed  by  the  little  army  of  Spanish 
fugitives  of  two  hundred  years  ago,  a  great  railroad  line — a 
system,  rather,  with  its  giant  trunk  and  numerous  feeders  —  bi- 
sects New  Mexico,  the  territory  of  the  Pueblos,  and  crosses  the 
Rio  Grande  at  El  Paso.  At  Paso  del  Norte  it  enters  Old  Mex- 
ico as  the  "  Mexican  Central,"  though  still  under  the  guidance 
of  the  same  wise  and  sagacious  capitalists  who  projected  the 
Atchison,  Topeka,  and  Santa  Fe  system  westward  from  the  Mis- 
souri River,  and  southward  to  the  Mexican  frontier. 

In  the  fine  station  at  El  Paso  your  baggage  is  checked  for 
Mexico,  and  at  the  still  finer  station  of  the  "  Central,"  in  Paso  del 
Norte,  across  the  river,  it  goes  through  the  farce  of  an  examina- 
tion by  the  customs  officials,  and  is  re-checked  to  Chihuahua 
City,  or  farther  on.  But  you  yourself  are  not  disturbed  by  even 
a  change  of  cars,  and  may  retain  your  seat  without  molestation. 


602  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

and  glide  so  gently  over  the  Border  as  to  be  wholly  unaware 
that  you  have  changed  your  domicil  from  the  United  States  to 
Mexico.  It  was  thus  that  I  found  myself  for  a  third  time  enter- 
ing Mexican  territory,  within  three  weeks  of  my  departure  from 
St.  Louis,  and  after  having  put  behind  me  a  total  distance  (in- 
cluding side  trips)  of  over  four  thousand  miles,  over  roads  that 
would  put  to  shame  many  of  our  Eastern  tracks,  both  for 
smoothness  and  for  solidity  of  construction. 

Chihuahua^  (pronounced  Chee-waw'-waw)  is  the  largest  State 
in  the  Mexican  confederation,  having  an  area  of  120,000  square 
miles.  Sand  and  alkali  plains  occupy  the  greater  portion  of  the 
territory  not  upheaved  into  mountains,  and  it  is  computed  that 
at  least  one  half  its  surface  is  unfit  for  cultivation,  or  even  for 
occupation,  by  civilized  man.  But  along  the  rivers,  about  some 
of  the  lagunas,  and  in  the  mountain  valleys,  the  soil  is  fertile, 
and  produces  excellent  crops  of  wheat,  corn,  flax,  beans,  barley, 
cotton,  and  the  fruits  of  the  temperate  zone,  including  the  best 
grapes  for  wine  manufacture  in  the  country.  Grazing  is  the 
chief  occupation,  and  immense  herds  are  raised  and  sent  over 
the  Border  for  a  market,  some  of  the  ranches  numbering  their 
sheep,  horses,  and  cattle  by  the  hundred  thousand.  Vegetation 
is  sparse,  except  in  the  mountains  and  on  the  borders  of  the 
streams,  where  also  good  timber  is  said  to  be  abundant.  The 
climate  is  temperate  on  the  uplands,  and,  though  snow  falls  a 
foot  or  two  in  depth  on  the  mountains,  extreme  heat  is  some- 
times experienced  in  the  valleys.  A  peculiarity  of  the  desert 
region  of  Chihuahua,  —  which  also  applies  to  the  barren  tracts 
of  contiguous  Texas  and  New  Mexico,  as  well  as  Arizona,  —  is 
that  nearly  all  the  vegetation  is  supplied  with  thorns  or  spines. 
"  First  come  the  endless  variety  of  cacti ;  these  are  seen  from 
the  tiny  plant  not  larger  than  the  finger  to  the  giant  petaJiaya, 
raising  its  tall  stem  to  the  height    of  fifty  feet.      Then  follow 

1  Probably  a  Tarumare  name,  signifying  a  pleasant  place  of  abode.  The  Taru- 
mares  are  Indians  living  in  the  hills  of  Chihuahua,  who  derive  their  name  from  a 
curious  game  or  race,  in  which  they  run  from  morning  to  sunset,  driving  before 
them  a  large  ball.  The  numerous  towns  and  villages  with  names  terminating  in 
chic  also  pertain  to,  or  were  formerly  inhabited  by,  these  Indians. 


CHIHUAHUA,   THE   GREAT   FRONTIER   STATE.  605 

the  mesquit  (from  the  Aztec  word  mezquitl),  the  tornilla,  the 
fouquiera,  the  agaves  and  yuccas,  all  armed  with  spikes.  But 
these  thorny  and  angular  forms  are  not  confined  to  animal  and 
vegetable  life ;  they  seem  to  be  extended  to  nature,  even  in  the 
grandest  aspects  in  which  she  here  appears,  as  the  mountain 
ridges  present  the  most  singular  summits,  terminating  in  py- 
ramidal points,  or  resembling  towers  and  minarets.  Thus  is 
everything  in  these  desert  regions  peculiar."  While  the  parched 
and  desert  plains  are  nearly  destitute  of  birds  and  quadrupeds, 
they  abound,  says  a  very  observant  writer,  in  the  greatest 
variety  of  reptiles  and  insects,  such  as  lizards,  "  horned  frogs," 
tarantulas,  alacranes  (or  scorpions),  and  rattlesnakes.  There 
are  also  moles,  rats,  mice,  rabbits,  and  prairie-dogs,  while  the 
most  conspicuous  birds  are  the  paysano,  or  chaparral  cock,  — 
which  not  only  attacks  the  rattlesnake,  but  eats  it  voraciously, 
—  and  the  omnipresent  crow. 

The  distance  from  El  Paso  to  Chihuahua,  the  capital  of  the 
State,  is  225  miles,  mainly  through  such  arid  plains  as  have  just 
been  described.  The  worst  portion  of  the  desert  appears  first, 
in  the  sand-hills,  or  medanos,  which  extend  in  a  line  some  twenty 
miles  in  length,  and  through  which  the  railroad  ploughs  its  way 
directly  southward.  The  sand  is  very  light  and  fine,  and  is  con- 
stantly shifting  about,  like  ocean  billows,  exposing  here  and 
there  the  whitened  bones  of  mules  or  cattle,  which  fell  and 
perished  here  in  the  terrible  caravan  journeys  of  former  years. 

Through  the  sand-hills  the  old  wagon  trail  formerly  led,  and 
many  a  train  has  been  ambushed  and  many  a  driver  murdered 
by  the  dreaded  Apaches,  who  infested  them  until  the  advent  of 
the  railroad.  Through  the  dreariest  of  desert  regions  our  train 
steamed  steadily  southward,  with  no  notable  object  in  view  until 
we  reached  San  Jose,  where,  as  we  were  sighing  for  the  flesh-pots 
of  El  Paso,  a  stop  was  made,  at  an  old  car  turned  out  on  a  side- 
track, and  dinner  was  announced.  It  was  an  admirable  meal, 
abundant  in  meats  and  vegetables,  excellently  cooked  and  well 
served,  and  with  a  good  half-hour  to  enjoy  it  in.  It  was  per- 
vaded by  the  genius  of  the  great  caterer  of  the  Atchison  Road, 
Fred  Harvey,  whose  eating-houses  are  the  best  on  any  line  west 


6o6  TRAVELS   IN    MEXICO. 

of  the  Mississippi,  and  whose  cattle  are  pastured  on  the  green 
Kansas  prairies,  so  that  a  toothsome  steak  is  offered  the  travel- 
ler, whose  portion  elsewhere  would  be  greasy  frijoles  or  the 
tough  integument  of  a  Mexican  bull. 

A  fantastic  mountain  had  long  been  in  sight,  called  Monte- 
zuma's Chair,  and  113  miles  from  El  Paso  we  reached  a  station 
named  in  memory  of  the  Aztec  monarch,  where  a  beautiful  house 
was  being  erected.  The  scenery  did  not  materially  change  for 
the  better,  but  wore  the  same  terrible  aspect  of  sterility,  until  the 
station  of  Gallego  was  sighted,  139  miles  from  Paso.  Here  is  an 
adobe  hacienda,  a  few  miles  away  under  the  hills,  from  a  spring 
near  which  the  great  water-tank  at  the  track  is  supplied.  It  is 
surrounded  by  trees,  and  the  pasturage  seems  good,  but  the 
very  hills  above  have  long  been  the  lurking-place  of  the  Apaches. 
A  boy  at  the  station  told  me  that  they  had  raided  the  hacienda 
but  three  days  before,  killed  two  men,  and  carried  away  seven 
women,  —  some  of  whom  were  rescued  by  General  Crook,  — 
and  that  one  man  had  escaped  to  the  station  with  two  bullet- 
holes  through  his  arm. 

At  San  Jose  we  had  seen  a  company  of  Mexican  soldiers  on 
their  way  to  Casas  Grandes,  which  lies  on  the  border  of  the 
Apache  stronghold,  and  is  shown  in  the  map  given  in  the  suc- 
ceeding chapter.  Leaving  our  line  of  travel  southward  for  a 
moment,  let  us  glance  at  these  Casas  Grandes,  or  Great  Houses, 
buried  in  the  solitary  sierras  of  Northwestern  Chihuahua.  A 
river  of  this  name  takes  its  rise  about  a  hundred  miles  northwest 
of  the  city  of  Chihuahua,  and  flows  north  toward  the  frontier, 
discharging  into  Lake  Guzman.  The  valley  of  Casas  Grandes  is 
extremely  fertile,  about  two  miles  wide,  and  occupied  by  a  small 
village  of  Mexicans.  It  is  a  strategic  point  in  the  Apache  cam- 
paign, and  the  last  remnant  of  these  barbarous  Indians  may  be 
eventually  captured  at  this  place. 

The  "  Great  Houses,"  from  which  town,  river,  and  valley  take 
their  name,  are  the  ruins  of  structures  of  adobe  that  were  erected 
here  hundreds  of  years  before  the  country  was  settled  by  the 
Spaniards.  They  face  the  cardinal  points,  and  some  of  the 
walls  still  standing  are  thirty  feet  in  height  and  five  feet  thick. 


CHIHUAHUA,   THE   GREAT   FRONTIER   STATE. 


607 


CAS  AS   GR  ANDES. 


made    of  great  blocks    of  adobe,  and  were  undoubtedly  built 
with  successive  terraces,  like  the  Pueblo  villages  of  New  Mex- 
ico.     The  largest  building  must  have  been  quite  800  feet  in 
length  by  250 
in     breadth. 
The    group    is 
the     northern- 
most in  Mexi- 
co, and  is  radi- 
cally   different 
from  any  other 
in  the  republic, 
though  similar 
ruins  are  found 

in  the  present  territory  of  Arizona,  on  the  River  Gila,  and  else- 
where. It  may  have  been  here  in  these  very  Casas  Grandes  that 
the  Aztecs  received  their  first  impulse  towards  a  migration 
southward,  when  a  little  bird  whispered  to  their  chief  to  go  on ; 
and  their  halting-places  may  perhaps  be  traced  in  the  structures 
of  stone  and  adobe,  that  extend  in  a  long  and  zigzag  line  from 
one  end  5f  Mexico  to  the  other. 

It  has  been  proposed  by  engineers,  to  conduct  the  mountain 
streams  into  the  desert  plains,  and  fertilize  them  by  a  system  of 
irrigation,  by  canals,  or  else  by  water  obtained  by  the  sinking 
of  artesian  wells.  In  this  basin  bisected  by  the  railroad,  there  is 
thought  to  be  a  great  depth  of  soil,  the  wash  from  the  mountain 
slopes  through  ages  of  erosion,  which  would,  if  irrigated,  produce 
two  crops  a  year.  The  pasturage  improves  as  the  road  runs 
south,  and  at  Laguna  it  is  fair,  while  at  Encinillas,  180  miles 
from  El  Paso,  it  looks  very  inviting.  We  pass  within  sight  of 
the  Laguna  of  Encinillas,  or  Evergreen  Oaks,  which  is  about 
fifteen  miles  long  by  three  wide  (according  to  the  season),  and 
has  pleasant  grassy  shores,  about  which  great  herds  of  large  and 
long-horned  cattle  are  feeding.  Jack  rabbits  in  great  number, 
antelopes,  and  coyotes  skip  over  the  plain,  while  birds  in  abun- 
dance float  upon  and  fly  over  the  lake.  A  sand  storm,  forcible 
and  penetrating,  burst  upon  us  as  the  train  entered  this  plain. 


6o8  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

hiding  everything  from  sight,  even  the  bases  of  the  jasper  hills 
which  lie  beyond  the  lake,  among  the  trees  on  the  border  of 
which  nestles  a  fortified  hacienda  with  whitened  walls.  It  be- 
longs, with  all  the  land  lying  along  the  track  for  nearly  eighty 
miles,  to  Don  Enrique  Miiller,  an  enterprising  German  resident 
of  Chihuahua,  and  Don  Luis  Terrasus,  the  Governor  of  the  State. 
It  may  be  a  profitable  property,  with  its  70,000  head  of  cattle, 
when  the  Apaches  are  exterminated ;  but  it  has  been  repeatedly 
raided,  and  so  late  as  September  of  1883  a  large  number  of 
valuable  horses  and  cattle  were  driven  off  to  the  hills.  Their 
shepherds  and  rancheros  have  been  killed  almost  as  fast  as  their 
places  could  be  supplied ;  yet  the  proprietors  bear  their  losses 
philosophically,  as  the  supply  of  laborers  is  practically  inex- 
haustible. A  dozen  miles  from  Encinillas  is  the  adobe  hamlet 
of  Sauz,  or  Willow  Dale,  the  only  village  on  the  road,  where 
there  are  about  a  hundred  willows,  or  cottonwoods,  and  springs, 
and  streams. 

Sacramento,  where  Colonel  Doniphan,  on  his  celebrated  march 
in  the  early  stage  of  the  Mexican  war,  fought  a  decisive  battle, 
lies  eighteen  miles  beyond  Sauz.  The  victory  gained  by  the 
brave  Doniphan  opened  to  the  United  States  troops  the  capital 
city  of  Chihuahua,  less  than  twenty  miles  farther  on,  and  which 
may  be  seen  at  a  distance  of  nearly  ten  miles,  as  it  stands  upon  an 
elevated  plain  without  any  intervening  vegetation,  and  is  thrown 
into  strong  relief  against  a  barrier  of  mountains.  The  train  rolls 
over  its  solid  road-bed  at  a  steady  jog  of  twenty  miles  an 
hour,  down  over  the  dry  and  treeless  plain;  and  just  where  the 
hills  come  together  from  either  side  and  seem  to  forbid  farther 
progress,  there  lies  Chihuahua,  its  great  church  towers  rising 
above  its  stone  and  adobe  houses,  with  its  chapel  of  Guadalupe 
at'one  end  and  the  convent  of  San  Francisco  at  the  other.  For 
a  few  miles  before  we  reach  the  city,  a  band  of  green  borders 
the  eastern  hills,  —  a  tree-fringed  river,  which  divides  and  runs 
around  it,  and  then  disappears  amongst  the  hills. 

The  city  of  Chihuahua  is  built  upon  a  bleak  and  barren  plain, 
surrounded  by  bare  and  rocky  mountains,  at  a  height  above  the 
sea,  4,600  feet,  that  gives  it  a  climate  far  famed  for  its  salubrity. 


CHIHUAHUA,   THE   GREAT   FRONTIER   STATE.  609 

There  is  probably  no  town  in  the  United  States,  of  the  same 
number  of  inhabitants,  that  possesses  so  many  fine  buildings, 
or  is  built  upon  a  plan  of  such  lavish  magnificenee,  as  this; 
for  it  owes  its  origin  to  the  discovery  of  rich  mines,  and  its  no- 
ble edifices  to  the  constant  stream  of  silver  that  flowed  from 
them  during  a  very  long  period.  Founded  near  the  close  of  the 
seventeenth  century,  it  rapidly  assumed  the  proportions  of  a  city, 
and  at  one  time  had  more  inhabitants  than  at  the  present  day ; 
but  when  the  mines  became  exhausted,  its  population  dwindled 
to  less  than  10,000,  though  now  numbering  18,000.  When  the 
Spaniards  were  expelled,  in  1821,  the  mines  were  entirely  aban- 
doned, and  the  ranches  and  haciendas  likewise  fell  into  decay. 
Indications  of  those  times  when  the  mines  were  in  their  great- 
est splendor  remain  in  the  vast  heaps  of  silver  scoriae,  of  which 
many  walls  are  built,  and  even  houses,  and  "  in  which,  accord- 
ing to  trustworthy  analysis,  enough  silver  remains  to  make  fresh 
smelting,  under  better  and  more  economical  management,  a 
profitable  undertaking."  Looking  to  this  end,  a  company  has 
been  formed,  in  Philadelphia,  which  has  purchased  all  this 
wastage,  and  from  which  it  hopes  to  realize  a  bonanza. 

The  train  from  El  Paso  arrives  within  sight  of  the  city  at 
dusk,  passing  through  a  colony  pertaining  to  the  railroad, 
where  great  machine-shops  cover  the  ground,  and  where  a 
round-house,  with  its  stalls  full  of  iron  horses,  is  surrounded  by 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars'  worth  of  railway  material,  and 
where  the  evidences  are  strong  that  an  American  town  will  soon 
develop  that  shall  rival  the  capital  city  itself.  It  crosses  a 
fine  bridge,  and  comes  to  a  halt  at  the  station.  True  to  Mexi- 
can tradition,  the  authorities  would  not  allow  the  railroad  to 
approach  the  city  within  the  distance  of  a  mile.  Nor  would 
they  allow  of  the  purchase  of  land  by  the  company  for  build- 
ing sites,  lest  an  American  town  should  be  formed  that  could 
exist  independently  of  their  own.  So  a  tramway  now  connects 
with  the  city,  over  the  intervening  mile  of  space,  the  most  nota- 
ble objects  on  the  way  being  the  heaps  of  silver  slag,  and  the 
river  that  flows  around  and  drains  the  town. 

The  city  was  well  and  regularly  built,  mainly  of  adobe,  with 

39 


6lO  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO- 

some  stone  buildings,  with  broad  streets  which  were  once  well 
paved.  It  has  the  usual  plaza,  or  central  square,  with  its  cus- 
tomary fountain  and  bit  of  greenery,  so  marked  a  feature  in 
every  Mexican  town,  and  so  attractive  to  visitors  from  the  North. 
About  this  square  are  the  usual  public  buildings,  as  the  gov- 
ernor's palace  and  the  great  church,  this  latter  said  to  be  second 
only  in  size  to  the  cathedral  of  Mexico  City,  and  the  noblest 
edifice  in  all  Northern  Mexico.  It  is  a  beautiful  and  imposing 
structure  of  light-colored  stone,  with  a  central  dome,  and  two 
high  towers.  Its  fagade  reminded  me  of  that  of  the  cathedral  of 
Oaxaca,  in  Southern  Mexico,  (though  itself  a  grander  building,) 
as  it  is  embellished  with  life-size  statues  of  our  Saviour  and  the 
twelve  Apostles.  Its  picture  is  here  ;  and  in  accordance  with  my 
plan,  to  waste  no  time  on  text  when  the  graver  can  be  employed 
to  better  advantage,  I  resign  the  pen  in  favor  of  the  latter. 

I  would  advise  the  visitor  to  follow  my  example,  at  least  in  one 
particular,  and  climb  to  the  towers,  where  there  are  many  bells,  — 
one  in  particular  which  was  shattered  by  a  cannon-ball  from  the 
invading  army  of  Maximilian,  in  1866,  —  and  take  a  survey  over 
the  attractive  valley  from  that  elevated  point.  Its  numerous 
bells  are  mellow-toned,  and  its  quaint  old  clock  is  illuminated 
at  night,  so  that  the  many  loungers  in  the  Plaza,  who  idle  away 
the  hours  of  evening  to  the  strains  of  Mexican  music  and  the 
tinkling  waters  of  the  fountain,  retire  promptly  and  quietly  as 
the  hour  often  is  struck. 

At  the  close  of  the  last  century  a  massive  aqueduct  was  built, 
about  three  miles  and  a  half  in  length,  running  a  long  distance 
on  arches  of  masonry.  It  terminates  near  the  alameda,  a  great 
grove  of  Cottonwood  trees,  which  shelter  grand  promenades  and 
drives,  though  given  over  to  pigs,  goats,  and  burros,  and  to  cer- 
tain classes  of  Mexicans.  The  chapel  of  Guadalupe,  at  the  head 
of  the  alameda,  where  may  be  seen  a  statue  of  the  great  Jesuit, 
Loyola,  is  fresh  and  attractive ;  beyond  which  a  road  runs  into 
the  suburbs,  to  a  quarter  of  stately  houses  and  gardens.  In  the 
upper  part  of  the  city  is  another  alameda,  or  public  walk,  which 
is  more  of  a  resort,  where  a  triple  row  of  trees  shades  numer- 
ous benches  of  stone  and  masonry. 


CHIHUAHUA,   THE  GREAT   FRONTIER   STATE.  6ll 

Here,  at  a  point  mainly  above  the  roofs  of  the  city,  is  a 
vacant  lot,  the  only  eligible  site  for  an  American  hotel,  and 
which,  I  was  told,  the  owner  ofifered  to  give  outright  to  any 
one  who  would  erect  there  a  structure  costing  not  less  than 
$60,000.  There  is  certainly  a  need  for  a  good  public  house 
in  Chihuahua,  as  those  at  present  existing  are  not  altogether 
satisfactory.  The  obstacles  in  the  way,  however,  are  both 
numerous  and  serious ;  the  principal  being  the  lack  of  fuel  and 
produce,  and  the  great  cost  of  everything  necessary  to  the  run- 
ning of  a  successful  public  house.  Of  restaurants  and  second- 
rate  hotels  Chihuahua  now  has  a  sufficient  number ;  and  whether 
the  increasing  travel  will  warrant  the  erection  of  a  costly  house, 
which  must  depend  almost  entirely  upon  the  "  States  "  for  its 
provisions,  and  entirely  upon  them  for  patronage,  would  seem  at 
present  problematical.  All  the  requisites  for  success  as  a  win- 
ter resort  —  bright  sun,  pure  and  bracing  air,  picturesque  (though 
circumscribed)  surroundings,  and  a  region  new  to  the  average 
tourist  —  are  here.  The  prices  of  necessary  staples  are  about 
as  follows:  flour,  $8  per  hundred  pounds;  wood,  $26  per  cord; 
coal,  $25  per  ton;  chickens,  forty  cents  each;  eggs,  fifty  cents 
per  dozen ;  American  cheese,  fifty  cents  per  pound  ;  lard,  forty 
cents  ;  butter,  sixty  cents  :  sugar  (American),  thirty-seven  cents ; 
ham  (American),  fifty  cents ;  fresh  beef,  six  to  tu'elve  cents; 
mutton,  eight  to  fifteen  cents ;  native  vegetables  at  low  prices. 
Building  material  is  excessively  dear,  and  labor,  skilled  and 
common,  very  low.  I  might  add,  that  Chihuahua  possesses  one 
monopoly,  —  a  diminutive  dog,  so  small  that  it  leaves  nothing 
to  be  desired,  and  so  intelligent  that  it  never  barks  and  rarely 
bites.  Its  origin  is  enveloped  in  mystery,  but  its  fate,  so  far  as 
Mexico  is  concerned,  is  likely  to  be  extermination,  as  all  the 
specimens  procurable  are  bought  at  fabulous  prices  and  sent 
North.  Attempts  to  propagate  the  species,  outside  of  Chihua- 
hua,  have  failed  in  producing  pups  that  did  not  outstrip  their 
progenitors  in  size,  and  thus  become  worthless. 

An  immense  trade  was  carried  on  here  with  the  United  States, 
as  the  distance  is  so  great, to  the  Mexican  producing  and  manu- 
facturing centres  that  nearly  all  supplies  are  obtained  from  the 


6i2  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

North.  The  great  trade,  which  was  formerly  conducted  by- 
means  of  caravans,  with  Santa  Fe,  Kansas  City,  and  St.  Louis, 
now,  of  course,  reverts  to  the  railroad.  No  longer  isolated, 
but  with  direct  and  rapid  communication  with  the  outside 
world.  Chihuahua  does  not  now  demand  its  goods  in  great 
bulk ;  its  wants  are  supplied,  and  of  the  great  number  of  trad- 
ers and  speculators  who  flocked  there  at  the  opening  of  the 
railroad,  the  majority  have  been  badly  bitten  and  bitterly  dis- 
appointed. The  Mexican  can  only  move  at  a  certain  pace ;  in 
an  age  of  steam  he  lives  with  all  the  simplicity  of  his  ancestors, 
when  the  patriarchal  system  was  in  vogue.  You  cannot  hurry 
him,  except  you  charge  upon  him  with  an  engine,  and  then  he 
retorts  by  putting  conductor  and  engineer  in  jail  and  confiscat- 
ing your  property.  He  does  not  take  kindly  to  innovations; 
he  prefers  bare  floors  and  unadorned  walls  to  English  carpets 
and  American  furniture.  In  truth,  he  prefers  to  be  let  alone ; 
he  will  not  allow  his  household  gods  to  be  ruthlessly  torn  down 
by  these  iconoclastic  "  Gringos  " ;  and  if  the  American  flood 
increase  to  a  deluge,  and  even  completely  surround  him  and 
his  family,  he  will  continue  to  live  as  his  fathers  did,  calm  and 
unmoved  amid  the  seething  waters  of  change. 

The  Mexican  of  the  Border  has  an  unpleasant  custom,  when 
trouble  arises,  of  clapping  his  loving  brother  from  the  "  Sister 
Republic  "  into  the  calaboose.  The  farther  south  one  goes,  the 
less  the  danger,  as  a  rule,  as  this  undoubtedly  arises  from  the 
frequent  vagaries  of  the  American  stranger,  the  outgrowth  of 
individual  enterprise.  This  is  not  always  prompted  by  malice 
or  jealousy;  indeed,  he  is  remarkably  unsuspicious;  but  it  is  a 
custom  of  the  country,  costimibre  del  pais,  sanctioned  by  long 
usage.  He  makes  no  distinction  between  Yankee  and  Aztec  ; 
his  rule  is,  when  in  doubt,  the  calaboza.  It  may  happen  that 
the  unhappy  victim  languishes  for  months,  perhaps  for  years,  in 
durance  vile,  but  his  turn  for  trial  comes  round  in  due  course. 
Retributive  justice  is  swift  in  Mexico,  but  the  processes  of  the 
law  are  slow.  It  may  be  that  the  Mexican  official  is  sometimes 
influenced  by  the  haughty  bearing  and  arrogance  of  the  Ameri- 
can, who,  conscious  of  superior  antecedents,  makes  his  presence 
a  trifle  obnoxious. 


CHIHUAHUA,   THE   GREAT   FRONTIER   STATE.  615 

"  Throughout  America,"  says  a  traveller,  Froebel,  "  the  term 
'  American  '  is  almost  exclusively  applied  to  the  people  of  the 
United  States ;  —  a  practice  by  which  the  '  manifest  destiny '  of 
that  compound  of  the  most  active  elements  of  the  present  gen- 
eration of  mankind  is  thoughtlessly  recognized,  even  by  those 
who  are  most  immediately  threatened  by  it ;  for  in  all  Spanish 
countries  los  Americanos  means  the  people  of  the  great  North- 
ern republic."  Let  this  definition,  by  a  foreign  writer,  satisfac- 
torily explain  the  use  of  the  word,  and  its  origin,  and  let  it  not  be 
charged  upon  us  that  we  have  arrogated  to  ourselves  this  distinc- 
tive term  of  superiority.  Much  to  our  discredit,  it  is  indiscrimi- 
nately applied  to  all  individuals  from  over  the  Border,  whether 
the  land  of  their  nativity  be  the  New  or  the  Old  World.  At 
least  nine  out  of  ten  of  these  murders — let  it  be  distinctly  un- 
derstood —  are  by  foreign-born  citizens  of  the  United  States, 
coming  mainly  from  that  country  notorious  for  its  turbulent 
population.  While  I  was  in  Chihuahua,  I  remember,  two  mur- 
ders occurred  of  a  particularly  brutal  character,  and  all  the 
native  citizens  of  respectability  held  up  their  hands  in  horror  at 
the  barbarous  deeds  of  los  Americanos.  Yet  they  proceeded 
from  the  usual  source.  "  They  were  '  Americans,'  "  said  one  of 
my  countrymen  indignantly,  commenting  on  the  affair ;  "  every 
foreigner  is  an  American  here ;  but  one  was  born  in  England, 
and  the  other  came  straight  over  from  Ireland !  " 

Very  fortunate  it  is  for  Northern  speculators  and  the  railway 
men  that  the  Governor  of  the  State,  Don  Luis  Terrasus,  and  the 
Mayor  of  the  city,  Don  Juan  Zubiran,  are  gentlemen  of  broad 
and  enlightened  views,  courteous  and  refined,  who  enter  heartily 
into  the  progressive  movement,  and  strive  with  all  their  power 
to  allay,  rather  than  promote,  sectional  animosities.  The  two 
newspapers  here  printed  in  the  interests  of  Americans,  "  The 
Enterprise "  and  "  The  Chihuahua  Mail,"  though  a  little  too 
sanguine  in  their  predictions  of  immediate  prosperity  for  the 
northern  investor,  are  yet  excellent  pacificators ;  and  as  the 
Mail  prints  half  of  its  broad  columns  in  Spanish,  and  does 
not  hesitate  to  bestow  a  healthy  criticism  upon  the  State  and 
city  government  now  and  then,  they  are  very  important  factors 


6l6  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

in  the  Americanizing  of  Northern  Mexico.  And  by  the  term 
"  Americanizing  "  I  would  imply  that  great  civilizing  force  that 
is  permeating  the  Southern  republic,  opening  its  mines,  span- 
ning its  deserts  with  bands  of  steel  and  electric  wires,  thus  mate- 
rially aiding  the  central  government  in  the  restoration  and 
permanent  preservation  of  law  and  order  in  its  remote  and 
hitherto  inaccessible  provinces. 

"  The  most  hopeful  sign  of  the  better  fortune  dawning  for  the 
two  republics,"  says  a  progressive  newspaper,  the  El  Paso 
Times,  "  is  to  be  found  in  the  rapid  manner  in  which  the  old 
feelings  of  ill-will,  which  were  wont  to  prevail  between  the 
people  of  the  United  States  and  the  people  of  Mexico,  are  dis- 
appearing. In  the  near  future  will  doubtless  be  realized  the 
statesman-like  vision  of  Grant :  a  free  trade  for  the  North  Amer- 
ican continent,  and  a  moderate  tariff  for  foreign  nations." 

The  railroad  brought  to  Chihuahua  many  industries  to  which 
she  was  a  perfect  stranger,  one  of  the  first  being  a  great  lumber 
company  and  factory,  the  result  of  the  joint  efforts  of  Ex-Gover- 
nor Anthony  of  Kansas,  a  former  Superintendent  of  the  Central 
Railroad,  and  Mayor  Zubiran.  A  flouring-mill  was  established 
by  Mr.  Marshall  of  California,  and  a  bullion  refinery  by  a  learned 
German,  to  utilize  the  wastage  made  in  silver  by  the  old  pro- 
cesses. Three  hotels  were  soon  opened  by  Americans,  which 
were  a  great  improvement  over  the  Mexican  meson,  with  its 
stables  in  the  courts  and  total  disregard  of  a  traveller's  wants. 
A  livery  stable  and  transfer  company  was  the  next  American 
enterprise,  and  the  street  railroad  the  crowning  one,  while  rapid 
communication  with  the  North  and  the  safe  forwarding  of  letters 
and  packages  is  attended  to  by  the  Wells  Fargo  Express.  Real 
estate  agents  are  here  in  sufficient  number,  the  "  liveliest "  of 
whom  publish  an  excellent  journal,  the  "  Enterprise,"  while  bank- 
ers of  integrity  and  good  standing  are  already  established.  A 
telephone  company  and  an  ice  factory,  and  everything  that  Chi- 
huahua needs,  or  is  supposed  to  require,  have  been  provided, 
except  a  well-appointed  drug  store  and  a  really  magnificent 
caravansary.  News  and  book  companies  operate  here  at  great 
profit,  while  hand  in  hand  with  other  American  institutions  the 


CHIHUAHUA,   THE   GREAT    FRONTIER   STATE.  617 

Protestant  Mission  has  secured  a  foothold  here.  The  pioneer  in 
this  work,  representing  the  combined  Presbyterian  and  Congrega- 
tional Boards,  is  the  Rev.  J.  D.  Eaton,  a  gentleman  who  has  won 
the  love  and  regard  of  the  entire  community,  while  engaged  in 
the  labor  of  bringing  together  such  members  of  it  as,  deprived 
of  the  Christian  influences  of  home,  are  yet  desirous  of  retaining 
its  memories  and  religious  associations  sweet  and  unimpaired. 
I  think  it  is  his  aim  —  as  it  certainly  should  be  —  rather  to  sup- 
ply the  spiritual  needs  of  our  own  people  who  have  wandered 
beyond  the  reach  of  the  home  circle,  than  to  attempt  to  prose- 
lyte from  among  the  Mexicans. 

A  building  which  strangers  to  the  city  never  fail  to  visit  is  the 
mint,  casa  de  moneda,  where  not  only  do  they  inspect  the  works 
and  operations  of  this  establishment,  but  are  shown  a  room  in 
which  Hidalgo,  the  liberator-priest  of  Mexico,  was  confined,  the 
night  previous  to  his  execution  in  the  adjacent  plaza.  We  need 
not  to  be  reminded  that  Chihuahua  is  a  silver-producing  State, 
for  it  has  long  borne  that  reputation.  It  contains  eighteen  or 
twenty  well-defined  mineral  districts,  in  which  are  valuable  mines 
in  working,  with  others  abandoned  through  Indian  incursions. 
Twelve,  at  least,  of  these  districts  contain  mines  that  have  a  mar- 
ketable value,  and  are  profitable  to  their  owners.  The  number 
of  large  reduction  works  is  twenty,  and  constantly  increasing. 
The  systems  employed  are  the  smelting  and  the  patio  (see 
Chapter  XXII.),  though  the  greater  portion  of  the  metal  is  ex- 
tracted by  the  former,  and  by  an  improved  process  introduced 
by  American  capitalists. 

Not  only  the  mint  is  a  constant  witness  to  the  great  yield 
of  the  mines,  but  even  the  cathedral.  Its  walls,  to  use  a  figura- 
tive expression,  are  laid  in  silver,  and  from  "turret  to  founda- 
tion stone  "  this  vast  structure  was  the  product  of  a  single  mine. 
How?  Let  us  see.  Numerous  writers  have  adverted  to  this 
fact,  but  I  will  quote  from  one  the  least  prejudiced,  because 
disinterested,  the  German  traveller,  Froebel:  "  Twelve  or  fif- 
teen miles  distant  from  the  capital  are  the  mines  of  Santa  Eula- 
lia,  from  which  it  derived  its  ancient  wealth  and  splendor,  and 
all  the  mountains  of  which,  within  a  space  of  six  square  miles, 


6l8  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

contain  silver.  Over  two  hundred  mines  have  been  worked 
here,  and  more  than  fifty  of  these  have  shafts  not  less  than  six 
hundred  feet  in  depth.  Several  of  them  are  so  extensive,  that 
it  takes  a  day  to  pass  through  a  single  one.  When  these  mines 
were  at  the  height  of  their  prosperity,  a  tax  of  a  real  was  lev- 
ied upon  each  inarco  —  hfelf-pound  —  of  silver  produced,  for  the 
building  of  the  cathedral  of  Chihuahua  and  the  church  of  Santa 
Eulalia.  The  first  cost  $600,000  (one  writer  says  $800,000)  ; 
the  last,  $150,000;  and  a  surplus  of  $150,000  remained  to  the 
building  fund  when  both  were  completed.  Between  1703  and 
1833  silver  was  taken  from  these  mines  amounting  to  43,000,000 
marcos,  or  about  $344,000,000."  This  author  then  adds  :  "  For 
these  mines  and  the  town  of  Chihuahua,  there  is  every  prospect 
of  a  renewed  and  lasting  period  of  wealth,  since,  sooner  or  later, 
there  can  be  no  doubt  that  capital  and  enterprise  will  be  found 
to  develop  the  natural  resources  of  this  locality." 

This  statement,  made  over  thirty  years  ago,  was  in  a  measure 
prophetic,  as  a  company  of  Eastern  capitalists  has  commenced 
work  at  Santa  Eulalia,  with  all  the  machinery  necessary  for 
pumping  out  the  abandoned  mines,  and  exposing  the  veins  that 
produced  so  many  successive  bonanzas.  One  of  their  tunnels 
alone  is  seven  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length,  eight  feet  high, 
by  seven  wide,  and  is  intended  to  tap  several  mines. 

In  the  banking-house  of  McManus  &  Co.  I  was  shown  a 
mass  of  silver  as  large  as  a  coco-nut,  containing  that  peculiar 
formation  called  clavos  (or  nails),  like  wires  or  nails  of  silver 
melted  together.  It  had  just  been  received  from  the  Batopilas 
mines,  now  owned  by  a  company,  the  "  Batopilas  Consolidated," 
represented  by  Ex-Governor  Shepherd.  At  the  same  time 
the  condncta  came  in  from  Batopilas  with  $60,000  in  pure  sil- 
ver, as  the  returns  for  the  month's  work.  In  the  list  of  mines 
of  Northern  Mexico,  the  Batopilas  occupy  the  first  place,  as 
they  have  yielded  many  bonanzas  and  have  produced  some  of 
the  largest  and  most  beautiful  masses  of  native  silver  that  have 
ever  been  exhibited  to  the  world.  They  lie  on  the  western 
declivity  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  southwest  of  the  city  of  Chihuahua, 
and  distant  five  days  by  coach  or  muleback.     The  distance  from 


CHIHUAHUA,    THE    GREAT    FRONTIER    STATE.  619 

Parral  is  about  two  hundred  miles,  nearly  due  west,  and  the 
district  is  situated  in  a  very  deep  ravine,  where  the  climate  is 
warm,  but  healthy. 

The  metallic  lodes,  says  Mr.  Ward,  visible  by  their  elevated 
crests,  are  almost  innumerable.  The  principal  mines,  most  of 
which  have  been  in  bonanza,  are  the  Carmen,  San  Antonio,  Ne- 
vada, Pastrana,  Arbitrios,  Dolores,  Candelaria,  and  Buen  Suceso. 
The  Carmen  is  the  mine  that  produced  the  enormous  wealth  of 
the  Marquis  of  Bustamente,  and  from  which  a  mass  of  solid 
silver  was  extracted  which  weighed  425  pounds.  The  ores  of 
Pastrana  were  so  rich  that  the  lode  was  worked  by  bars,  with  a 
point  at  one  end  and  a  chisel  at  the  other,  for  cutting  out  the 
silver.  Buen  Suceso  was  discovered  by  an  Indian,  who  swam 
across  the  river  after  a  great  flood.  On  arriving  at  the  other 
side  he  found  the  crest  of  an  immense  lode  laid  bare  by  the 
force  of  the  waters.  The  greater  part  of  this  crest  was  pure  and 
massive  silver,  and  sparkling  in  the  sun.  The  Indian  extracted 
great  wealth  from  his  mine,  but  on  arriving  at  the  depth  of  three 
varas,  the  abundance  of  water  obliged  him  to  abandon  it.  In 
the  Batopilas  district  the  silver  is  generally  found  pure,  and 
unaccompanied  by  any  extraneous  substances.  The  reduction 
of  the  ores  is  consequently  easy  and  simple.  When  the  silver 
is  not  found  in  solid  masses  which  require  to  be  cut  with  a 
chisel,  it  is  generally  finely  sprinkled  through  the  lode,  and  often 
seems  to  nail  together  the  particles  of  stone  through  which  it  is 
disseminated.  The  lodes  are  of  considerable  width,  but  the 
masses  of  silver  are  only  met  with  at  intervals. 

Not  so  far  to  the  south  is  the  Cusihuiriachi  District,  in  the 
centre  of  which  region  is  a  metallic  deposit  in  the  general  shape 
of  a  tree,  from  the  trunk  of  which  radiate  many  veins  in  every 
direction.  Upon  the  hill,  which  is  the  highest  of  this  branch  of 
the  Sierra  Madre,  are  the  mines  of  silver,  lead,  and  zinc  of  San 
Martina,  San  Antonio,  and  San  Bartolo,  which  have  been  re- 
cently purchased  by  an  American  company,  for  a  large  sum,  and 
are  full  of  rich  promise  for  the  future. 

One  evening,  as  I  sat  on  the  balcony  of  the  American  House, 
overlooking  the  beautiful  plaza,  a  shouting  and  cracking  of  whips 


620  TRAVELS    IN    MICXICO. 

arrested  my  attention,  and  there  came  into  view  a  caravan  of 
mules,  which  lengthened  out  until  nine  fourteen-mule  teams 
had  passed  down  the  broad  street  and  disappeared  in  the  dusk. 
They  were  the  teams  used  in  transporting  machinery  and  mining 
supplies  to  those  far  away  camps  in  the  mountains.  At  anotlier 
time  a  great  wagon  drawn  by  long  yokes  of  oxen  came  up  from 
the  south,  from  Mexico  City,  quite  a  thousand  miles  away,  with 
its  spare  wheel  lashed  under  the  wagon  body,  and  its  drivers  and 
cattle  looking  worn  and  weary.  Not  many  more  trips  are  in 
store  for  them,  for  the  railroad  covers  much  of  their  long,  v/eari- 
some  route,  and  they  will  soon  be  as  useless  as  their  fifth  wheel, 
except  in  cases  of  emergency,  unless  they  seek  new  fields  in 
Central  America. 

These  carts  were  laden  principally  with  the  beautiful  pottery 
of  Guadalajara,  a  great  State  of  Central  Mexico,  famous  for  these 
products  of  the  ceramic  art  and  for  the  vast  cathedral  of  its  cap- 
ital city.  To  complete  the  series  of  pictures  of  the  principal 
churches  and  cathedrals  of  Mexico,  I  insert  an  engraving  of  this 
great  and  splendid  religious  edifice. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  first  train  from  the  North,  which  was  but 
eight  months  previous  to  my  visit,  the  entire  population  went 
out  to  greet  its  distinguished  visitors,  and  the  city,  even  to  the 
high  towers  of  the  cathedral,  was  illuminated.  The  next  day 
was  that  of  the  Independence  of  Mexico,  the  i6th  of  Septem- 
ber, and  to  the  booming  of  cannon  and  ringing  of  bells  was 
added,  for  the  first  time  in  Chihuahua's  existence,  the  whistle  of 
the  locomotive.  All  Chihuahua,  wrote  the  correspondent  of  a 
Texas  paper  at  that  time,  were  around  the  railroad  track  as 
the  train  came  in.  "  All  who  were  able  to  ride,  walk,  or  crawl 
were  there.  And  of  the  assembled  thousands,  fully  one  half 
belonged  to  the  untutored,  mystery-worshipping  class,  who  had 
never  seen  even  the  picture  of  a  locomotive  or  train  of  cars. 
They  had  heard  of  the  wonders  of  the  cars  from  stray  travellers 
of  their  caste,  who  by  driving  freight  wagons  to  El  Paso  had 
seen  them,  and  were  ready  to  behold  an  engine  or  a  devil.  But 
when  they  saw  the  wonderful  thing  itself,  coming  like  a  black 
mastodon,  roaring,  hissing,  rumbling,  tearing  along  through  the 


CHIHUAHUA,   THE   GREAT   FRONTIER   STATE.  623 

darkness,  with  its  dazzling  headlight,  we  can  excuse  them  from 
making  the  sign  of  the  cross,  and  bending  to  the  ground,  while 
they  murmured,  —  as  many  did,  —  '  Ave  Maria  Santissitna, 
estan  lleg^ando  el  diablo ;  salvarnos  !  '  " 

It  halted  not,  this  black  monster  of  invasion,  but  proceeded  on 
its  way  southward,  and  when  I  was  there,  in  June,  1883,  was  four 
hundred  miles  south  of  the  Border.  In  company  with  a  delight- 
ful acquaintance,  Mr.  Hotter,  a  well-known  lawyer  of  St.  Joseph, 
Missouri,  I  left  Chihuahua  one  night,  at  eleven  o'clock,  for  the 
end  of  track.  The  road  had  not  then  been  "  accepted  "  beyond 
the  city  by  the  government  engineer,  but  a  caboose  was  attached 
to  every  construction  train  in  which  passengers  who  chose  to 
make  the  venture  could  stow  themselves  at  their  own  risk.  The 
opportunity  for  visiting  hitherto  inaccessible  country  and  distant 
relations,  without  cost,  was  too  tempting  for  the  Mexican  to  re- 
sist, and  the  caboose  was  so  crowded  that  a  seat  on  the  floor, 
even,  was  at  a  premium.  The  Mexicans  had  an  abundance  of 
provender,  and  they  ate,  and  smoked,  and  spat,  until  the  air  was 
blue,  themselves  gorged  almost  to  bursting,  and  the  floor  itself 
in  the  condition  of  their  own  dirty  hovels.  The  men  were  volu- 
ble, the  women  loquacious,  and  the  babies  yelled  all  the  night 
long,  so  that  we  were  not  at  all  sorry  when  daylight  came. 

About  two  miles  from  the  city  are  the  reduction  works  of  the 
Santa  Eulalia  Mining  Company,  which  are  connected  with  their 
mines  by  a  short  narrow-gauge  track,  and  are  doing  well.  Ad- 
joining this  property  is  a  vast  hacienda,  comprising  some  62,000 
acres,  situated  in  a  very  fertile  valley,  and  owned  by  Seiior 
Enrique  Miiller.  I  drove  over  this  great  property  at  a  later 
date  with  Senor  Miiller,  who  is  a  German  by  birth,  and  a  gentle- 
man of  culture,  broad  views,  and  great  attainments.  He  was 
building  an  adobe  residence,  with  cut  stone  portals  and  pillars, 
20b  feet  long  by  125  feet  wide,  surrounding  a  court,  and  with 
graceful  towers  at  every  angle.  All  the  work  was  done  by  his 
own  laborers,  even  to  the  sculptured  columns  and  arched  portals. 
He  had  raised,  in  the  year  past,  70,000  bushels  of  wheat,  and 
20,000  of  corn,  while  his  herds  covered  the  pastures  for  miles. 
The  adobe  quarters  for  his  laborers  were  several  hundred  feet 


624  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

in  length,  each  family  having  two  snug  little  rooms,  and  consti- 
tuted one  wall  of  his  nursery,  in  which  he  had  already  set  out 
over  3,000  fruit  trees.  They  do  things  on  a  vast  scale  in  Mex- 
ico, when  they  can  get  the  land  ;  next  below  Senor  Miiller  are 
several  haciendas,  one  of  60,000,  and  another  of  125,000  acres. 

With  us,  on  the  car,  was  a  part  owner  of  the  Santa  Eulalia 
mines,  and  of  the  celebrated  iron  mountain,  the  Cerro  Mercado, 
of  Durango,  who  was  going  to  visit  the  latter,  and  would  have 
to  "  stage  it  "  four  hundred  miles  beyond  the  end  of  track. 

We  ran  for  twenty-seven  miles  through  a  single  grant,  belong- 
ing to  Senor  Horcasitas,  and  at  a  curve  around  the  Santa  Eulalia 
mountains  entered  another  hacienda  of  45,000  acres,  owned  by 
the  bankers,  McManus  &  Son,  of  Chihuahua.  At  the  Rio  San 
Pedro  a  magnificent  bridge  of  hewn  stone,  soft  in  color  and 
easily  worked,  was  being  constructed  across  the  broad  and  ex- 
posed river-bed.  Over  the  river  we  entered  another  ranch.  Las 
Delicias,  of  150,000  acres,  with  10,000  under  cultivation,  and 
which  is  said  to  rent  for  $15,000  per  annum.  The  moderately 
fertile  lands  of  the  celebrated  Conchos  River  lie  beyond,  and  we 
rode  for  twenty-seven  miles  within  sight  of  the  stream,  and  along 
an  immense  irrigating  canal,  which  renders  this  otherwise  waste 
land  productive  in  wheat,  corn,  barley,  and  even  in  cane,  cotton, 
and  tobacco. 

At  the  fork  of  the  Conchos  and  Rio  Florida  lies  the  adobe 
town  of  Santa  Rosalia,  with  about  9,000  inhabitants,  unattract- 
ive save  for  its  plazuela,  with  its  flowers,  and  rivulets,  and  sing- 
ing birds.  Above  the  town  are  the  ruins  of  an  adobe  fort, 
taken  by  the  gallant  Doniphan  on  his  march  through  the  country 
to  join  General  Taylor,  at  the  beginning  of  the  Mexican  war. 
Four  miles  from  the  town  are  the  hot  springs  of  Santa  Rosalia, 
famous  throughout  Northern  Mexico  for  their  curative  proper- 
ties ;  and  these  we  visited,  leaving  the  train  with  its  expectorat- 
ing passengers  and  shrieking  infants,  and  taking  to  a  vehicle 
denominated  by  courtesy  a  "  hack."  The  ride,  though  rough, 
was  delightful,  first  through  the  mud-colored  hamlet,  then  down 
a  shady  lane,  across  an  acequia.  Fording  the  Rio  Conchos,  we 
passed  over  a  mile  of  fertile  farm  land,  level  as  a  floor,  and  every 


CHIHUAHUA,   THE   GREAT    FRONTIER   STATE.  625 

inch  under  cultivation.  The  Indian  farmers  were  peacefully- 
ploughing,  with  wooden  ploughs,  driving  their  teams  four  abreast, 
and  leaving  behind  them  furrows  such  as  might  be  made  by- 
dragging  a  sharpened  stick  of  timber  over  the  ground.  Yet 
their  acres  were  broad  and  free  from  weeds,  and  smiling,  be- 
neath the  glorious  sun  of  Northern  Mexico,  in  cotton,  tobacco, 
corn,  and  cane,  intermixed  with  desirable  fruits,  such  as  apples, 
quinces,  and  peaches.  They  lived,  to  be  sure,  in  mud  hovels, 
mere  boxes  of  adobe  brick,  hardly  ten  feet  high  by  twenty 
square;  but  these  huts  are  cool  in  summer  and  warm  in  winter; 
and  what  more  does  man  want,  in  this  climate  of  perpetual  sun- 
shine? The  springs  themselves  lie  under  a  cream-colored  bluff, 
about  fifty  feet  in  height,  from  which  they  come  pouring  out,  to 
the  number  of  six,  some  smelling  of  sulphur,  others  of  sulphu- 
retted hydrogen,  and  all  of  them  hot.  Each  one  is  guided  into 
an  adobe  pen,  or  mud  hut,  about  ten  feet  square,  and  in  the  mud 
floor  of  which  a  hole  is  sunk  about  six  feet  by  three.  An  attend- 
ant living  in  another  mud  hovel  furnishes  you  with  a  towel  and 
a  sheet,  and  then  you  take  your  choice  of  an  arsenic,  a  sulphur, 
an  iron,  or  a  magnesia  spring,  or  of  another  in  which  all  these 
elements  are  compounded,  with  a  resultant  stench  that  is  com- 
pletely overpowering,  even  in  this  land  of  evil  odors. 

A  romantic  history  pertains  to  these  springs ;  but  their  future 
is  of  more  importance  than  their  past,  just  now,  for  the  rail- 
road company,  with  that  liberal  policy  and  foresight  which 
have  characterized  the  managers  of  the  Atchison  system,  pur- 
poses to  make  of  Santa  Eulalia  a  watering-place  second  to 
none  south  of  Las  Vegas  in  New  Mexico.  There  is  a  good  deal 
in  these  springs  besides  water,  and  there  is  little  doubt  that  a 
hotel  will  take  the  place  of  the  present  ill-conditioned  quarters, 
within  the  space  of  a  few  years. 

The  valley  of  the  Rio  Florida  is  reputed  the  richest  in  Chi- 
huahua, yet  there  were  but  three  haciendas  in  sight  in  a  run  of 
forty  miles.  They,  indeed,  were  almost  boundless  in  extent, 
as  measured  by  the  eye,  and  their  aceqida,  or  irrigating  canal, 
was  nearly  fifty  miles  in  length ;  many  a  league  of  waste  land, 
covered  originally  with  mesquit,  was  being  reclaimed  through 

40 


626 


TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 


its  influence,  and  corn  and  wheat  were  springing  up  wherever  its 
trickHng  rills  had  penetrated.  This  section  was  the  crossing 
place  of  the  Apache  trail  from  the  Sierra  Madre  to  the  east- 
ern plains,  and  throughout  these  fields  we  saw  scattered  circular 
adobe  watch-houses,  to  which  the  laborers  would  retreat  at  the 
first  note  of  alarm.  The  Apaches  have  not  been  seen  here  for  a 
number  of  years,  and  will  never  probably  come  this  way  again ; 
yet  every  hacienda  has  suffered  from  them,  and  one  field  was 
pointed  out  to  us  where  twenty  laborers  had  been  killed  in  a 
single  fight.  Towards  sunset,  in  the  centre  of  the  valley,  we 
passed  one  hacienda  where  the  Indian  peons  were  all  sitting 
on  the  flat  roofs  of  their  mud  dwellings,  a  picture  of  which  I 
was  reminded  later,  when  visiting  the  Pueblos  of  New  Mexico. 
The  peon  wears  only  cotton  drawers  and  a  hat,  perhaps  sandals, 
and  at  night  a  shirt  and  sarape ;  in  fact,  the  Indian  of  the  Bor- 
der differs  but  slightly  in  dress  from  his  red  brother  of  Yucatan 
and  Southern  Mexico. 


XXX. 


SONORA  AND  THE  APACHE  COUNTRY. 

TI)  Y  the  Proyecta  de  Guerra  of  1837,  the  government  of  Chi- 
-■— '  huahua,  worn  out  by  the  repeated  atrocities  committed  on 
its  defenceless  ranchos  and  pueblos,  offered  a  bounty  for  every 
Indian  scalp:  $100  for  that  of  every  warrior,  and  $50  for  that 
of  a  squaw.  This  proyecta  was  soon  repealed,  but  not  before  its 
beneficial  workings  were  made  manifest  in  the  lessening  of  the 
number  of  los  barbaros  about  the  region  of  the  capital  city.  It 
was  almost  from  necessity  that  the  project  was,  in  effect,  again 
lately  put  in  operation  in  the  raids  against  those  Indians,  though 
bounty  for  the  scalp  of  a  "  buck  "  was  advanced  to  $250,  while 
the  soldiers  were  cautioned  to  extend  the  shield  of  protection 
over  the  less  guilty  and  defenceless  women  and  children. 

Having  had  dealings  with  savage  Indians  for  over  three  cen- 
turies, the  Mexican  government  has  finally  evolved  a  policy  that 
should  commend  itself  to  our  own.  The  squaws  are,  indeed, 
nearly  as  irreclaimable  as  the  men,  but  they  endure  confinement 
with  stoical  indifference,  and  some  of  them  even  take  kindly  to 
service  in  Mexican  families.  The  children  are  assigned  to  good 
masters,  and  though  scattered  throughout  the  State,  so  as  en- 
tirely to  remove  them  from  tribal  influences,  they  are  treated 
with  great  humanity.  But  even  after  years  of  captivity,  many 
of  these  Apache  children,  although  brought  up  as  privileged 
members  of  the  family,  will  escape  and  flee  to  the  mountains, 
such  is  their  inherent  barbarism. 

Confined  in  the  jail  at  Chihuahua,  at  the  time  of  my  visit, 
were  about  twenty  Apache  prisoners,  women  and  children. 
Nearly  all  the  women  were  busy  with  the  needle,  and  one  of  them, 
an  aged  squaw,  with  head  white  with  the  frosts  of  many  winters, 


628  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

was  engaged  in  an  insectivorous  hunt  in  the  hair  of  her  neigh- 
bor, that  required  not  only  good  eyesight  but  deft  fingers.  They 
seemed  to  enjoy  the  cool  rooms  of  their  prison,  which  opened 
into  a  clean  patio,  shaded  by  fig-trees ;  and  one  of  them,  who 
had  recently  given  birth  to  an  infant,  seemed  an  object  of  solici- 
tude to  her  companions.  This  babe,  then  about  three  weeks 
old,  was  very  light  in  color,  had  a  thick  head  of  jet  black  hair, 
and,  as  it  lay  sleeping  on  the  stone  floor,  looked  the  picture  of 
health  and  innocence. 

My  acquaintance  with  the  Apaches  began  in  the  first  week  in 
June,  at  which  time  there  were  some  two  thousand  Mexican 
troops  in  the  Sierras  and  on  their  skirts,  with  headquarters  at 
Casas  Grandes  and  Corallitos,  in  the  northwestern  part  of  the 
State.  They  were  honestly  endeavoring  to  co-operate  with  Gen- 
eral Crook,  who  had  then  been  absent,  and  unheard  from,  in  the 
mountains  of  the  Apache  region,  for  quite  a  month.  It  had 
been  reported  that  intense  feeling  existed  in  Mexico  against  the 
United  States  government,  on  account  of  the  passage  of  the 
Border  by  our  troops ;  but  this  I  found  not  to  be  the  case. 
There  was  a  feeling,  it  is  true,  —  but  also  shared  in  by  all  sensi- 
ble residents  of  the  Southwest,  —  that  the  United  States  troops 
were  but  carrying  out  2i  false  mid  mistaken  policy ;  that  they  were 
in  Mexico,  not  for  the  purpose  of  meting  out  justice  to  murder- 
ers who  had  perpetrated  atrocities  without  a  parallel  in  Indian 
warfare,  but  to  cajole  them  into  returning  to  the  flesh-pots  of 
the  reservation,  with  all  their  plunder  stolen  from  Mexican  haci- 
endas, their  herds  of  cattle  and  horses,  there  to  recruit  for  fresh 
forays  into  Mexican  territory. 

The  Mexicans  know,  through  two  hundred  years  and  more  of 
bitter  experience,  that  the  caustic  remark,  usually  attributed  to 
General  Sheridan,  that  "  the  only  good  Indian  is  a  dead  Indian," 
is  perfectly  true  as  applied  to  the  Apache.  Hence  it  is  that  the 
grim  humor  of  the  farce  enacted  by  our  government  was  hardly 
appreciated,  in  view  of  the  tragedy  that  they  knew  was  sure  to 
follow ! 

Coming  down  from  Santa  Fe,  New  Mexico,  on  the  i6th  of 
June,  on  my  way  to  the  Gulf  of  California,  I  learned,  at  the  little 


SONORA   AND   THE   APACHE   COUNTRY. 


629 


station  of  Willcox,  on  the  "  Southern  Pacific,"  that  General 
Crook's  command  had  recrossed  the  frontier,  and  that  he  himself 
was  in  the  hotel  of  that  very  place.  Hearing  this,  and  that,  fur- 
ther, the  troops  with  the  Indian  prisoners  would  be  in  early  next 
day,  I  at  once  applied  to  the  conductor  for  a  stop-over  check ; 
for  I  had  a  through  ticket  for  Sonora,  and  local  travel  on  the 
Southern  Pacific  is  ten  cents  a  mile.  But 
he  had  then  already  given  the  signal  for 
starting  the  train,  and  I  had  nothing  to 
do  but  clamber  on  board  again.  One 
hope  remained;  it  was  an  up-grade  for 
the  next  twenty-five  miles, 
and  an  extra  engine  was 
assisting  from  Willcox,  to 
which  it  would  return 
from  Dragoon  Summit, 
where  I  secured  the  cov- 
eted stop-over.  The  en- 
gineer—  to  his  credit  let 
me  say  it — refused  me  a 
ride  on  the  engine,  saying 
it. was  against  orders;  but 
after  he  had  got  the  old 
machine  spinning  down 
the  steep  incline,  he  found 
I  was  a  passenger,  and 
could  not  then  well  put 
me  off. 

Willcox,  which  lies  as  near  the  point  of  departure  for  the 
Apache  country  as  any  station  on  the  Southern  Pacific,  consists 
of  two  straggling  lines  of  shanties  and  frame  houses,  and  pre- 
sents a  bold  front,  with  a  saloon  in  every  other  building.  It  is 
an  outfitting  station,  and  has  several  well-stocked  stores  and 
large  corrals.  Though  it  was  Saturday,  and  Crook's  forces  were 
momentarily  expected,  the  town  was  very  quiet,  and  but  few  of 
the  inhabitants  were  intoxicated  ;  save  one  poor  devil,  who  lay 
dead  drunk  on  the  platform  scales  all  day.     He  must  have  been 


APACHE    SQUAWS. 


630  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

weighed  during  the  night,  and  found  wanting  —  at  the  poHce 
station ;   for  his  place  was  vacant  in  the  morning. 

General  Crook  was  not  visible  till  late  in  the  evening,  as  he 
was  taking  a  much-needed  rest ;  but  he  then  gave  an  inter- 
view to  the  two  sons  and  former  law  partner  of  the  murdered 
Judge  McComas,  who,  with  his  wife,  was  killed  at  a  short 
distance  only  from  Lordsburg,  a  station  on  the  railroad  about 
seventy  miles  from  Willcox.  The  General  gave  the  anxious 
young  men  much  encouragement  to  hope  that  their  little 
brother,  Charley,  who  had  been  carried  away  by  the  Indians, 
was  yet  alive.  He  told  them  he  was  quite  certain  the  little 
captive  would  be  brought  in  within  seven  days,  as  he  had  de- 
tailed Indians  acquainted  with  his  whereabouts  to  search  for 
him.  Notwithstanding  this  assurance,  subsequent  events  have 
proved  our  Indian  fighter  to  be  in  error,  as  it  would  seem  that 
Charley  was  not  a  long  time  even  in  captivity,  but  was  brutally 
murdered  not  long  after  his  capture. 

The  wily  Indians  well  knew  what  an  influence  it  would  have 
in  making  subsequent  terms  for  peace,  if  it  should  be  thought 
that  he  was  then  alive  and  well,  and  we  have  many  reasons  for 
believing  that  the  "  Gray  Fox,"  as  they  denominate  General 
Crook,  was  outwitted  by  the  untutored  savage  in  several  in- 
stances, and  that  the  latter  was  chuckling,  for  more  reasons  than 
one,  when,  in  reply  to  a  question  at  an  interview  in  the  Sierras, 
the  "  Gray  Fox  "  made  a  mistake  in  the  word  for  his  Apache 
appellation. 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th  of  June,  General  Crook  and  his 
staff  started  in  an  ambulance  for  a  military  post  in  the  interior. 
Early  the  same  day  a  party  of  us  bestrode  some  lively  horses 
and  rode  out  to  Croton  Springs,  where  we  found  Crook's  com- 
mand encamped,  and  already  picketing  their  horses,  while  the 
Indians  were  scattered  over  the  fields  wherever  their  fancy 
seemed  to  have  taken  them.  It  was  difficult  to  distinguish  cap- 
tives from  captors,  for  the  famed  scouts  were  not  in  many  in- 
stances better  armed  than  their  "  prisoners,"  except  that  the  last 
were  mainly  children  and  squaws,  and  the  remainder  old  and 
decrepit  men. 


SONORA   AND   THE   APACHE   COUNTRY.  63 1 

These  Apache  scouts  were  a  muscular,  sinewy  body  of  men, 
and  their  countenances  were  of  a  cheerful  cast,  save  for  an  as- 
pect of  ferocity  bestowed  by  an  overhanging  shock  of  jet-black 
hair.  This  was  bound  in  place  by  a  strip  of  scarlet  cloth ;  a 
loose-hanging  shirt  fell  over  their  scanty  drawers,  or  deer-skin 
leggings,  and  their  feet  were  encased  in  fine  and  close-fitting 
moccasons  with  raw-hide  points,  which  projected  beyond  and 
turned  up  in  front  of  the  toes.  Some  were  in  uniform  and 
wore  blue  trousers,  kept  in  place  by  a  broad  leather  belt,  which 
contained  as  many  rounds  of  cartridges  as  could  be  crammed 
into  it,  generally  forty.  All  were  armed  with  the  regulation 
Springfield  breech-loading  rifle,  and  every  one  bore  a  brass  tag, 
with  a  number  on  it  corresponding  with  another  attached  to  a 
minute  description  of  the  bearer  at  the  San  Carlos  reservation. 

Our  first  respects  were  paid  to  Captain  Crawford,  commander 
of  the  scouts,  and  Lieutenant  Gatewood  and  the  bronzed  and 
war-worn  troopers  who  comprised  the  company  from  the  Sixth 
Cavalry.  Most  of  them  were  asleep,  and  but  one  man  could 
be  seen  on  guard  in  the  whole  encampment,  though  the  Indians, 
scouts  and  all,  outnumbered  the  whites  ten  to  one,  and  were 
not  a  long  way  distant  from  their  retreats  in  the  Mexican  moun- 
tains. The  squaws  and  children,  temporarily  deprived  of  the 
protection  of  the  gallant  "  bucks,"  had  already  raised  shelters 
over  themselves  and  their  belongings,  in  the  shape  of  huts  of 
brush,  or  cloth  tents,  and  there  they  sat,  as  hideous  groups 
of  redskins  as  ever  drew  the  breath  of  life.  There  they  sat,  or 
wandered  around  the  camp,  or  went  to  the  spring  for  water,  or 
staid  by  their  fires  and  cooked  the  entrails  and  garbage  of  the 
slaughtered  cows,  while  choice  cuts  of  beef  fairly  covered  the 
tops  of  all  the  bushes.  Revelling,  even  rioting,  in  abundance, 
these  Indians  were  far  better  fed  than  the  brave  and  patient 
soldiers  who  had  penetrated  to  their  far-off  stronghold,  and 
brought  them  out  to  be  petted  and  fattened  at  the  expense  of 
good  Uncle  Sam.  "  Beefsteak  and  chops  for  the  red- 
skins," said  one  of  the  soldiers,  "  and  sow-belly  and  hard-tack 
for  us."  This  is  the  usual  complaint,  I  know,  but  in  this  case  it 
was  justified  by  the  fact. 


632 


TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 


There  were  in  all  about  three  hundred  and  eighty  captives, 
but  forty  of  whom  were,  or  ever  had  been,  warriors ;  among 
them  were  several  chiefs  who  had  been  famous,  but  who,  from 

age  or  incapacity,  no  long- 
er had  influence  with  the 
tribe.  One  of  these,  named 
Loco,  or  Old  Crazy,  was 
once  a  famous  leader,  but 
is  now  a  pitiful  old  man, 
with  shrunken  and  palsied 
limbs,  and  so  poor  that  he 
even  sold  his  neck-orna- 
ments, his  tweezers  for 
picking  out  the  superflu- 


ous hairs  on 
his  face,  and 
his  brass  ear- 
rings, for  a 
little  silver. 
But  he  was 
an  exception 
to  the  otheis, 
who  were  fat, 
saucy,  and 
rich  beyond 
the  dreams  of 
Indian  ava- 
rice. The  others  figuring  as  chiefs  were  Chato,  Bonito,  Geroni- 
mo,  Nachez,  and  Nana,  who  were  engaged  all  day  in  playing 
a  peculiar  game  with  long  poles  and  hoops.  The  whole  band 
was  well  supplied  with  money:  gold,  silver,  greenbacks,  and 
fractional  currency  of  Chihuahua,  amounting,  it  was  thought,  to 
a  sum  not  less  than  $5,000,  as  when  captured  they  had  over  one 
hundred    ponies  laden  with  plunder,   not  only  cloths,  saddles, 


AN    APACHE   AND    HIS   \VIGWAMS. 


SONORA   AND   THE   APACHE   COUNTRY.  633 

and  money,  but  even  gold  and  silver  watches.  The  ornaments 
of  bucks  and  squaws  were  made  of  silver  dollars  beaten  into 
stars,  and  some  wore  necklaces  of  double-eagles,  American  gold. 
They  were  so  well  "  fixed  "  that  I  could  not  purchase  any  of 
their  effects,  such  as  I  have  hitherto  found  the  Southern  Indians 
so  ready  to  part  with,  except  one  small  jicarilla,  or  water-gourd, 
covered  with  bear-skin. 

Nearly  all  were  engaged  in  their  favorite  pastime  of  monte,  or 
Mexican  cards,  and  the  circles  formed  for  this  purpose  were 
many,  and  the  crowds  about  them  dense  and  numerous.  In 
the  afternoon  two  great  loads  of  goods  came  out  from  VVillcox; 
and  these  savages,  with  arms  yet  in  their  hands,  and  thrifty  in 
murdered  men's  money,  crowded  around  the  wagons  and  quickly 
emptied  them,  bartering  their  spoil,  some  of  it  yet  red  with  the 
blood-stains  of  their  victims,  for  the  luxuries  of  civilization. 

I  witnessed  this,  not  without  indignation,  and  also  another 
sight  which  was  calculated  to  hasten  the  circulation  of  Yankee 
blood  a  little ;  no  less  than  the  purchase  of  the  veritable  watch 
taken  from  the  dead  body  of  the  murdered  Judge  McComas, 
and  for  which,  that  very  day,  his  former  law  partner  paid  fifty 
dollars  to  recover  for  the  family !  Better,  a  thousand  times, 
thought  I,  the  Indian  policy  of  the  Mexican,  than  such  a  vacil- 
lating one  as  ours,  which  sacrifices  the  lives  of  valuable  soldiers 
and  hardy  frontiersmen  to  the  support  of  a  horde  of  villains, 
whose  crimes,  in  a  civilized  community,  would  send  them  to 
eternity  with  the  rope  of  outraged  justice  around  their  necks ! 

As  I  have  said,  feasting  and  boasting  seemed  the  sole  occu- 
pation of  that  "captured"  horde,  and,  as  night  fell,  an  Indian 
drum  sounded  a  call  for  a  savage  dance  of  victory,  —  a  victory 
of  Indian  cunning  and  diplomacy.  All  was  joy  and  happiness 
in  Arizona  at  that  time,  June,  1883,  for  it  was  thought  that  the 
territory  was  finally  freed  from  predatory  bands,  as  General 
Crook,  in  his  despatches,  gave  the  most  emphatic  assurance 
that  no  Indians  were  left  likely  to  cause  disturbance,  or  that 
would  not  soon  be  on  the  reservation ;  yet  within  less  than  three 
months  reports  of  murders  and  wholesale  cattle-stealings  by 
the  Apaches  came  thick  and  fast  from  Chihuahua  and  Sonora. 


634  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

The  end,  if  I  may  judge  from  the  tone  of  the  Western  press, 
is  not  yet,  nor  likely  to  be,  until  the  last  Apache  "  buck"  is  sent 
to  happier  hunting-grounds  than  the  Sierra  Madres.  We  should 
not  forget,  in  our  spasms  of  sympathy  with  the  redskin,  that 
the  white  man  also  has  claims  upon  our  humanity. 

The  Apaches,  it  is  well  known,  are  divided  into  several  differ- 
ent tribes,  so  widely  separated  that  they  have  different  dialects. 
In  1876  their  number  was  estimated  at  10,000,  but  at  present  it 
is  not  much  over  6,000.  They  are  probably  of  Mexican  stock, 
descendants  of  those  fierce  Chichimecs,  who  have  remained 
nomads  and  barbarians  from  time  immemorial.  Nearly  all  the 
tribes  have  been  brought  into  the  United  States  reservations 
except  the  Chiricahuas,  whose  haunts  were  the  almost  inacces- 
sible fastnesses  of  the  Sierra  Madre  Mountains  in  Northwestern 
Chihuahua  and  Northeastern  Sonora,  where  rocky  gorges,  deep 
canons,  and  pine-crested  heights  gave  them  ample  security. 
With  their  homes  in  this  vast  wilderness,  whose  solitudes  were 
r^ver  penetrated  by  whites  or  Mexicans  until  last  year,  they 
have  ravaged  the  territory  on  both  sides  the  border  line  ever 
since  it  was  first  inhabited  by  a  Christian  population. 

The  records  of  the  Spanish  missionaries,  who  were  the  first  to 
establish  settlements  in  Northern  Mexico,  one  of  which  was  the 
Presidio  of  Fronteras,  in  1690,  show  that  they  were  constantly 
carrying  on  an  unequal  struggle  with  their  savage  neighbors, 
whom  they  could  neither  subjugate  nor  civilize.  From  a  col- 
lection of  notes  written  by  one  of  these  missionaries  in  1762,  we 
learn  that  there  were  then,  in  the  province  of  Sonora  alone, 
inclusive  of  the  five  presidios,  twenty-two  inhabited  and  forty- 
eight  depopulated  Spanish  settlements  and  mining  towns,  and 
but  two  occupied  ranchos,  while  there  were  one  Jmndred  and 
twenty-six  devastated. 

This  condition  of  affairs  has  not  been  improved  by  the  lapse 
of  time,  nor  have  any  of  the  settlements  thus  destroyed  by 
Indians  or  abandoned  through  fear  of  them,  ever  been  rebuilt. 
To  one  unacquainted  with  the  country  which  borders  the  Si- 
erra Madres  it  would  be  difficult  to  picture  its  desolation  and 
wretchedness.     Though  it  has  a  fine  climate,  fertile  valleys,  and 


SONORA   AND   THE   APACHE   COUNTRY. 


^Z^ 


perhaps  rich  mineral  deposits,  the  traveller  finds  only  deserted 
haciendas  and  settlements,  while  the  few  inhabitants  are  crowded 
into  small  villages,  tilling  the  soil  only  in  their  immediate 
neighborhood,  living  in  constant  dread  of  the  savages,  and  pos- 


A   WARRIOR   AND   HIS    WEAPONS. 

sessing  but  a  small  number  of  cattle  and  horses,  owing  to  the 
frequent  raids.  Thickly  scattered  along  every  trail  are  seen 
small  mounds  of  stone  surmounted  by  rude  crosses,  showing 
where  some  poor  wayfarer  has  been  murdered  by  the  Indians. 
"  Infelice  Sonora  "  was  the  name  aptly  applied  by  the  old  writers 


636  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

to  this  devastated  territory.  Of  the  Chihuahua  territory  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  mountain  range  a  Mexican  writer  recently 
said :  "  At  present  every  hacienda  must  be  converted  into  a 
castle  of  the  Middle  Ages,  every  shepherd  into  a  soldier;  pro- 
prietors of  estates  enjoy  no  security  in  their  possessions,  and 
the  common  people  gather  themselves  into  villages  to  escape 
from  the  exposed  country  in  which  they  are  certain  to  become 
the  victims  of  the  bloodthirsty  savages  from  the  wilderness." 

The  last  extensive  raid  of  which  we  have  information  was 
committed  in  1882,  when  a  band  of  seventy-five  warriors  roamed 
over  entire  Northern  Sonora,  spreading  everywhere  death  and 
desolation,  even  to  the  very  suburbs  of  the  large  cities,  as  Ures, 
the  former  capital.  Though  it  is  difficult  to  get  any  data  as  to 
the  extent  of  these  outrages,  it  is  safe  to  say  that  at  least  one 
hundred  people  were  murdered  during  this  raid,  without  the  loss 
of  a  single  Indian.  They  then  departed  for  Chihuahua,  where 
their  work  of  blood  was  continued,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Car- 
men and  Casas  Grandes,  and  they  returned  to  their  stronghold 
with  six  captives  and  three  hundred  head  of  stock. 

Nor  have  they  confined  their  operations  to  Mexico,  for  the 
annals  of  New  Mexico  and  Arizona  tell  similar  tales  of  woe ;  even 
so  late  as  1882  they  killed  seventeen  people  in  these  territories. 
The  Mexicans  have  again  and  again  sent  expeditions  against 
them,  which  generally  returned  unsuccessful.  Their  repeated 
failures  are  not  difficult  of  explanation,  though  it  is  hard  for 
one  unacquainted  with  Indian  warfare  to  understand  why  a  small 
band  like  this,  which  seems  never  to  have  contained  more  than 
three  hundred  warriors,  has  not  been  subjugated  or  exterminated. 
One  of  the  reasons  is,  that  the  Indians  live  in  an  unexplored 
wilderness,  without  fixed  habitations,  camping  in  small  bodies, 
here  to-day  and  off  to-morrow,  and  ever  ready  to  scatter  at  the 
signal  of  danger.  Hence  there  is  no  fixed  objective  to  which 
troops  can  march.  Following  on  the  trail  of  the  last  raiding 
party,  they  reach,  perchance,  the  outskirts  of  the  Indian  strong- 
hold ;  without  guides  to  head  the  advance,  they  find  themselves 
in  a  perfect  labyrinth  of  trails,  leading  in  all  directions,  with  no 
signs  of  the  foe,  save  here  and  there  a  deserted  rancheria.      To 


SONORA   AND   THE   APACHE   COUNTRY.  637 

move  on  seems  useless  and  hazardous,  and  as  their  rations  (all 
of  which  they  are  obHged  to  carry)  are  giving  out,  there  is 
nothing  to  do  but  sound  the  retreat.  Then  it  is  that  the  In- 
dians again  assemble,  and,  being  perfect  masters  of  the  country, 
make  use  of  every  gorge  and  canon  from  which  to  pour  a  deadly 
fire  upon  the  weary  and  discouraged  soldiers. 

The  Department  of  Arizona  has  been  for  several  years  in 
charge  of  General  Crook,  who  has  gained  a  reputation  for  brav- 
ery and  skill  as  an  Indian  fighter  second  to  that  of  no  other  officer 
of  our  army.  When  the  last  outbreak  occurred  he  planned  a 
campaign  that  should  penetrate  to  the  Indian  stronghold,  hoping 
thereby  to  strike  terror  into  the  hearts  of  the  enemy  and  entirely 
crush  them  out.  The  difficulties  attending  Indian  fighting  in 
this  department  are  not  alone  those  resulting  from  the  unfavora- 
ble character  of  the  territory,  but  are  augmented  by  the  treaty 
stipulations  between  Mexico  and  the  United  States,  by  which 
alien  troops  are  not  permitted  to  cross  the  Border.  Cogni- 
zant of  these  restrictions,  the  Apaches  raid  first  one  country  and 
then  the  other,  retreating  over  the  line,  where  they  for  a  while 
defy  the  pursuing  soldiers,  and  enjoy  their  plunder  unmolested. 

After  visiting  the  officers  in  command  of  the  Mexican  troops 
in  Sonora  and  Chihuahua,  and  securing  their  promise  of  co- 
operation, if  possible,  and  the  assurance  that  treaty  violations 
in  this  instance  would  be  winked  at,  in  view  of  the  great  ad- 
vantages likely  to  accrue  to  Mexico  from  the  bold  movement, 
General  Crook  commenced  his  march  into  that  unknown  terri- 
tory. In  some  respects  this  hazardous  undertaking  is  without  a 
parallel,  and  the  interest  excited  and  sustained  during  the  forty 
days  of  his  absence,  when  rumors  of  every  sort  filled  the  press, 
was  without  a  precedent  in  the  annals  of  our  Indian  campaigns. 

A  renegade  Chiricahua  Indian,  called  Peaches,  conducted  the 
troop  over  a  trail  which  led  into  the  heart  of  the  Sierre  Madres, 
for  a  distance  of  two  hundred  miles,  —  a  country  hitherto  almost 
unknown  to  civilized  man.  The  little  band  consisted  of  General 
Crook,  with  Captain  Bourke,  of  the  Third  Cavalry,  and  Lieuten- 
ant Fiebeger,  Corps  of  Engineers,  as  aids,  and  Captain  A.  R. 
Chaffee's  company  of  the  Sixth  Cavalry,  of  forty-six  men,  and 


638  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

one  hundred  and  ninety-three  Apache  scouts,  under  Captain 
Crawford,  assisted  by  Lieutenants  Gatevvood  and  Mackay.  The 
accompanying  map,  kindly  furnished  me  by  Lieutenant  Fiebeger, 
shows  the  devious  trail  and  the  site  of  every  camp  and  skirmish. 
The  campaign  cannot  be  more  tersely  described  than  in  the 
modest  despatch  of  General  Crook,  sent  in  immediately  after  his 
return  to  United  States  territory. 

"  Silver  Creek,  Arizona,  June  12th,  1883. 

"  Left  here  May  i ,  with  one  hundred  and  ninety- three  Apache  scouts 
under  Captain  Crawford.  Got  Lieutenants  Wood  and  Mackay,  with 
Captain  Chaffee's  company  of  forty-two  men  of  the  Sixth  Cavalry,  and 
rations  for  two  months  on  mules,  and  followed  the  hostiles.  The  Chiri- 
cahua  country  is  of  indescribable  roughness,  and  a  number  of  mules  lost 
their  footing,  and,  stepping  from  the  trail,  fell  down  precipices  and  were 
killed.  The  stronghold  of  the  Chiricahuas  is  in  the  very  heart  of  the 
Sierra  Madre.  The  position  is  finely  watered,  and  there  is  a  dense  growth 
of  timber  and  plenty  of  grass.  They  had  been  camped  near  the  head  of 
the  Bavispe,  occupying  prominent,  elevated  peaks,  affording  a  fine  look- 
out for  miles  and  rendering  surprise  almost  impossible,  and  their  retreats 
were  made  secure  through  the  rough  adjacent  canons. 

"  Captain  Crawford,  with  Indian  scouts,  early  on  the  morning  of  May 
15,  surprised  the  village  of  Chatto,  the  chief  who  led  the  recent  raid  into 
Arizona  and  New  Mexico.  The  fight  lasted  all  day,  and  the  village  was 
wiped  out.  The  damage  done  cannot  be  estimated.  A  number  of  dead 
bodies  were  found,  but  the  indescribable  roughness  of  the  country  pre- 
vented a  count  being  made.  The  entire  camp,  with  the  stock  and  every- 
thing belonging  to  it,  was  captured. 

"  It  was  learned  from  the  prisoners  taken  that  the  Chiricahuas  were 
unanimous  for  peace,  and  that  they  had  already  sent  two  messengers  to 
try  to  reach  San  Carlos.  On  the  1 7th,  they  began  to  surrender.  They  said 
their  people  were  much  frightened  by  our  sudden  appearance  in  their 
fastnesses,  and  had  scattered  like  quail.  They  asked  me  to  remain  until 
they  could  gather  all  their  bands  together,  when  they  would  go  back  to 
the  reservation.  By  the  terms  of  the  treaty,  my  operations  were  limited 
to  the  time  of  the  fight.  I  told  the  Chiricahuas  to  gather  up  their  women 
and  children  without  delay.  They  answered  that  they  could  not  get  them 
to  respond  to  the  signal,  the  fugitives  fearing  they  might  be  sent  by  our 
Apache  scouts  to  entrap  them.      They  told  us  that  they  had  a  white  boy 


SONORA   AND   THE   APACHE   COUNTRY. 


639 


who  was  in  the  village  jumped  by  our  scouts.      He  had  run  off  with 
the  squaws  who  escaped,  and  had  not  yet  been  heard  from.      They 


640  TRAVELS  IN  MEXICO. 

assured  me  every  one  of  the  band  should  come  in  if  I  would  remain  a 
short  time ;  but  the  terms  of  the  treaty  embarrassed  me  greatly,  and 
being  in  that  rough  region,  with  rations  rapidly  disappearing,  there  being 
between  three  and  four  hundred  Chiricahuas  to  feed,  I  was  compelled  to 
return. 

"  We  found  six  Mexican  captives,  —  five  women  and  one  child,  —  taken 
in  Chihuahua  early  in  May.  They  are  now  with  the  command.  These 
women  say  they  were  captured  near  the  Mexican  Central  Railroad,  at  a 
place  called  Carmen.  They  further  state  that  when  the  Chiricahuas  dis- 
covered that  the  Apache  scouts  were  in  the  country  they  became  greatly 
alarmed,  and  abandoned  on  the  trail  the  three  hundred  head  of  cattle 
they  were  driving  away  from  points  in  Western  Chihuahua.  The  cattle 
were  afterward  picked  up  and  driven  off  by  a  body  of  Mexicans. 

"  We  marched  back  as  rapidly  as  the  condition  of  the  stock  and  the 
strength  of  the  women  and  children  would  permit.  We  found  the  coun- 
try depopulated  for  a  distance  of  one  hundred  miles  from  the  Apache 
stronghold.  The  Chiricahuas  insist  that  they  have  always  lived  in  the 
Sierra  Madre,  and  that  even  when  the  main  body  went  on  the  reservation 
some  remained  behind  in  the  mountains.  Of  those  who  now  go  out, 
there  are  a  number  who  state  that  they  have  never  been  on  the  reserva- 
tion. I  have  strong  hopes  of  being  able  to  clean  the  mountains  of  the 
last  of  these. 

"  There  are  now  with  us  Loco  and  Nana,  who  were  so  often  reported 
killed,  and  the  families  of  other  prominent  chiefs.  I  saw  no  Mexican 
troops,  and  after  leaving  the  settlements  in  Northeast  Sonora  did  not  see 
a  Mexican  other  than  the  captives  rescued. 

"GEORGE   CROOK, 
Brigadier-Ge7ieral  Com?na7idiug." 

The  enthusiasm  of  the  Border  country  knew  no  bounds,  as 
the  travel-worn  heroes  emerged  from  the  unknown  region,  and 
General  Crook  was  hailed  as  the  savior  of  the  Southwest.  A 
banquet  was  given  him  in  Tucson,  and  the  long-repressed  feel- 
ings of  the  inhabitants  found  vent  in  adulatory  addresses.  Be- 
fore the  enthusiasm  had  well  cooled,  ugly  rumors  began  to  creep 
out;  which  it  may  seem  ungenerous  in  me  even  to  mention.  His 
enemies  claimed  that  he  had  not  only  committed  a  foolhardy 
thing,  in  going  into  the  stronghold  of  the  Apaches  with  a  force 
of  Indian  scouts  in  full  sympathy  with  them,  outnumbering  the 


SONORA   AND   THE   APACHE   COUNTRY.  64I 

soldiers  five  to  one,  but  that  he  was  at  the  last  outwitted  and 
entrapped,  and,  instead  of  being  the  captor  of  the  wily  Indians, 
had  himself  been  captured.  Policy  alone,  they  said,  had  dic- 
tated to  the  Indians  the  advisability  of  allowing  him  to  return, 
without  massacring  his  whole  command ;  so  they  compelled 
him  to  take  out  to  the  reservation  all  their  old  and  worthless 
squaws,  —  all  the  non-combatants,  in  fact,  —  and  then,  with  loins 
girded  for  battle,  and  with  only  their  most  agile  warriors  and 
the  youngest  of  their  squaws,  they  started  to  make  reprisals 
upon  the  hated  Mexicans. 

This,  in  truth,  would  have  been  but  consistent  with  the  mis- 
taken policy  hitherto  pursued  by  our  government:  to  treat  the 
Indian  like  a  spoiled  child,  to  allow  him  to  pillage  and  murder 
all  summer,  then  to  cajole  him  into  returning  to  the  reservation, 
where  he  might  fatten  upon  his  ill-gotten  gains  all  winter,  and 
thus  recruit  for  another  campaign  of  terror.  The  noble  red 
man  thereby  holds  our  prowess  in  light  esteem,  as  well  he 
may ;  for  the  spectacle  of  a  nation  of  fifty  million  people  quak- 
ing with  dread  over  the  anticipated  depredations  of  less  than 
three  hundred  Indians,  is  well  calculated  to  inspire  not  only 
contempt  but  disgust. 

But  there  are  always  two  sides  to  a  story,  and  I  think  that 
the  following  statement,  furnished  me  by  the  same  officer  who 
prepared  the  map,  and  to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  a  graphic 
description  of  the  Apache  coimtry  and  the  terrible  journey 
undertaken  into  it,  is  not  only  entitled  to  the  fullest  confidence, 
but  will  bear  the  test  of  the  revelations  of  the  future. 

"  General  Crook  has  been  severely  criticised  by  certain  people 
because  of  their  complete  ignorance  of  the  situation.  First,  the 
campaign  is  deemed  a  failure  because  it  did  not  terminate  in 
the  utter  extermination  of  the  Chiricahua  tribe  of  Indians. 
Secondly,  his  policy  is  condemned  because  he  chose  to  accept 
the  surrender  of  the  Indians,  instead  of  remaining  in  the  moun- 
tains and  continuing  the  pursuit. 

"In  answer  to  the  first  objection,  it  may  be  stated  that  the 
object  of  the  campaign,  as  explained  to  the  Mexican  officers  and 
understood  by  the  troops  under  his  command,  was  to  free  the 

41 


642  TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO. 

people  of  Mexico  and  the  United  States  from  further  outrages 
by  these  Indians.  There  were  two  methods  of  coming  to  this 
end.  One  was  by  means  of  a  large  command,  capable  of  sub- 
division, which  would  move  along  with  little  attempt  at  con- 
cealment and  forcibly  drive  the  enemy  before  them  out  of  their 
strongholds  in  succession,  and  eventually  surround  and  destroy 
them.  This  would  have  required  several  thousand  troops,  and 
it  would  have  taken  at  least  a  year  to  accomplish  the  result.  In 
the  mean  time,  the  misery  and  suffering  inflicted  on  the  poor  in- 
habitants of  Sonora  and  Chihuahua  would  be  almost  incredible, 
were  these  savages  compelled  to  leave  their  mountain  retreats 
and  subsist  entirely  on  the  country. 

"The  other  method  was  by  means  of  a  smaller  body  of  picked 
material,  capable  of  moving  rapidly  and  quietly,  and  thus  hav- 
ing the  power  of  surprising  and  'jumping'  the  savages,  and 
yet  strong  enough  to  demoralize  them  by  its  superiority,  and 
insure  to  itself  success  in  any  open  engagement. 

"  The  first  method  was  not  to  be  thought  of,  for  one  reason  if 
no  other,  that  the  Mexican  authorities  are  jealous  of  their  rights, 
and  would  never  permit  a  foreign  army  to  move  upon  its  soil. 

"  The  other,  although  in  many  respects  a  superior  method, 
could  not  be  expected  to  annihilate  the  enem}%  unless  resort 
was  made  to  treachery.  The  most  that  could  be  hoped  was 
one  decisive  victory,  which  would  cause  a  surrender;  and  then 
the  management  of  the  Indians  after  they  were  placed  on  a 
reservation  would  have  to  be  relied  on.  This  in  simple  terms 
was  the  plan  of  the  campaign  and  its  execution,  in  every  par- 
ticular. The  Chiricahuas  are  now  on  the  San  Carlos  reserva- 
tion, far  removed  from  their  stronghold,  surrounded  by  all  the 
available  forces  of  the  United  States  army  and  a  thousand  faith- 
ful Indian  allies.  The  future  of  these  Chiricahuas,  who  will 
henceforth  disappear  from  the  view  of  the  world,  can  be  fairly 
estimated  by  that  of  the  other  Apache  Indians.  Little  over  five 
years  ago,  the  whole  Apache  race  was  at  war  with  the  whites ; 
but  six  thousand  of  them  were  subdued  by  General  Crook,  and 
placed  on  the  San  Carlos  reservation,  since  which  time  there 
have  been  few  outbreaks,  and  these  of  short  duration. 


SONORA   AND   THE   APACHE   COUNTRY.  643 

"  One  point  which  has  been  omitted,  and  which  the  critics 
seem  to  dwell  upon,  is  that  no  great  battle  was  fought,  and  that 
none  of  Crook's  command  were  killed.  Had  they  read  his  re- 
port they  would  have  seen  that  no  such  claim  is  advanced,  but 
he  modestly  states  that  but  nine  Indians  were  killed ;  although 
there  is  hardly  a  man  of  the  command  who  is  not  convinced 
that  this  estimate  is  too  small.  Crook's  detractors  note  only 
the  slight  decrease  of  the  enemy's  forces,  but  lose  sight  of  the 
fact  that  hundreds  of  innocent  people  are  saved  from  future  out- 
rage, and  an  immense  territory  freed  from  raid  and  rapine." 

At  the  time  of  the  surrender  of  the  stronghold,  General  Crook 
was  assured  by  the  Apache  chief  that  the  remainder  of  his  band 
would  follow  him  into  United  States  territory  and  give  them- 
selves up,  which  the  General  confidently  believed  would  be  done. 
It  was  several  months,  however,  before  the  recreant  redskins 
made  their  appearance,  having  meanwhile  secured,  by  means  of 
bold  and  skilfully  conducted  raids,  great  herds  of  cattle  and 
horses  from  Mexican  haciendas.  Then  they  hastened  towards 
the  reservation,  where  they  could  enjoy  the  protection  of  Uncle 
Samuel,  and  find  a  market  for  their  stock. 

It  is  believed  that  the  object  of  the  daring  expedition  is  ac- 
complished, and  that,  without  bloodshed,  General  Crook  has 
ousted  the  Apaches  from  the  Sierras,  and  opened  a  new  and 
virgin  territory  to  the  enterprise  of  the  whites.  Conjecturally, 
this  region  is  stored  with  mineral  treasure,  and  tradition  points 
to  numerous  rich  mines  abandoned  during  two  centuries  of 
Apache  depredations ;  and  hundreds  of  prospecters  are  waiting 
for  the  moment  when  it  shall  be  declared  rid  of  savages,  to  put 
the  truth  of  these  rumors  to  the  test. 

It  was  late  at  night  when  I  finally  took  horse  again  and  de- 
parted from  the  Apache  camp,  with  the  weird  music  of  Indian 
drums  and  the  demoniac  songs  of  the  savages  ringing  in  my 
ears.  The  night  was  cool  and  moonlit,  such  as  compensates 
the  dweller  in  this  hot  and  arid  region  for  his  sufterings  during 
the  day,  and  the  ride  to  Willcox,  where  we  arrived  at  one  in  the 
morning,  was  quite  enjoyable.  With  commendable  enterprise, 
the  keeper  of  the  "  Eureka  House,"  desiring  to  satisfy  the  nat- 


644  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

ural  craving  of  the  "  tender-foot "  for  a  sight  of  rehcs  of  the 
campaign,  had  placed  in  his  window  "  the  skull  and  a  rifle  of 
an  Indian  chief,"  and  some  Chihuahua  currency  "  taken  from 
the  dead  body  of  a  noted  warrior  on  the  battle-field."  As  the 
currency  was  some  I  myself  had  lent  mine  host,  and  as  I  was 
not  conscious  of  having  plundered  any  dead  Indian,  the  tender- 
foot naturally  looked  upon  the  other  "  genuine  relics "  with 
suspicion. 

At  noon,  I  took  train  for  Sonora  and  the  Gulf  of  California, 
through  a  waste  and  forsaken  region,  in  which  settlements  are 
not  stimulated  by  the  local  tariff  of  ten  cents  a  mile  for  travel. 
The  temperature  along  this  route  through  Southern  Arizona  was 
about  one  hundred  degrees,  in  such  shade  as  it  was  possible  to 
find.  The  general  vegetation  was  cactus,  the  greatest  types  of 
which,  the  giant  petayah,  were  most  interesting.  Benson  is  the 
first  large  and  flourishing  town  west  of  Deming,  from  which  it 
is  one  hundred  and  seventy-four  miles  distant.  Only  forty-six 
miles  west  lies  the  ancient  Spanish  settlement,  now  a  flourishing 
city,  of  Tucson ;  but  this  city  I  did  not  visit,  as  my  course  lay 
towards  and  into  Mexico,  bearing  south  from  Benson  instead  of 
west,  crossing  the  rich  mineral  region  which  has  made  Arizona 
famous,  both  in  the  distant  past  and  in  recent  years,  and  has 
sustained  its  claim  to  the  ancient  appellation  of  Arezuma,  Land 
of  Gold. 

From  Contention,  on  the  line  of  the  "  New  Mexico  and  Ari- 
zona," it  is  but  ten  miles  to  Tombstone,  the  banner  town  of 
Arizona,  to  which  a  stage  runs  on  quick  time.  At  Huachuca 
General  Crook  and  staff  left  the  train  for  the  military  post  of 
that  name,  where  their  presence  was  needed  for  the  final  dis- 
position of  the  troops  guarding  the  Border.  They  are,  all  of 
them,  as  modest  and  unassuming  heroes  as  I  ever  had  the  good 
fortune  to  meet.  Having  just  brought  to  a  successful  close  one 
of  the  most  intrepid  and  remarkable  expeditions  on  record,  they 
were  now  retiring  to  the  obscurity  of  a  remote  frontier  post,  and 
turning  their  backs  upon  the  honors  the  grateful  people  of 
Arizona  were  anxious  to  shower  upon  them. 

Calabasas  is  the   name  of  the   last  station  in  United  States 


SONORA   AND   THE   APACHE   COUNTRY. 


645 


territory  through  which  we  pass  previous  to  entering  Sonora. 
It  was  once  an  old  hacienda,  near  which  was  a  gold  mine,  but 
was  often  depopulated,  through  Apache  raids,  and  knew  not  the 
blessings  of  peace  until  the  advent  of  the  railroad.  This,  indeed, 
may  be  said  of  this  entire  region,  every  presidio  and  village  of 
which  existed  only  upon  sufferance,  half  in  ruins,  guarded  by 
cowardly  Mexican  soldiers,  who  rarely  ventured  beyond  the 
mud  forts,  and  allowed  the  Apaches  to  murder  and  plunder 
with  impunity. 


PORTALES    OF   ALAMOS.^ 

But  not  a  village  on  the  Border  showed  such  sure  evidences 
of  settled  peace  as  this  quondam  hacienda,  on  the  night  of  our 
arrival.  It  was  eight  o'clock,  and  as  we  groped  our  way  from 
the  station  to  the  hotel,  where  it  was  said  a  supper  awaited  us, 
darkness  hid  from  our  sight  such  a  structure  as  we  had  not 
seen  for  days.  We  found  a  hotel  there  that  reminded  me  of  the 
edifice  at  Las  Vegas,  in  New  Mexico ;  and  on  inquiry  I  learned 
that  it  had  been  built  by  the  same  shrewd  and  far-seeing  men 


1  A  fine  town  of  Southern  Sonora,  which  derives  its  name  from  its  beautiful 
alameda,  —  alamos,  poplars,  —  and  which  does  considerable  trade  in  silver. 


646  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

who  guided  the  destinies  of  the  great  railroad,  the  Atchison, 
Topeka,  and  Santa  Fe.  And  the  supper !  The  last  meal  like 
it  we  had  been  able  to  obtain  only  at  Deming,  and  the  one 
before  that  at  Wallace ;  and  later  on  my  trip  I  found  that  the 
great  road  aforementioned  had  built  a  line  of  magnificent  hotels 
and  dining-rooms,  from  the  Missouri  River  —  as  far  as  its  route 
extended  —  to  the  Mexican  Border.  "  Eat  like  thunder,"  said 
an  "  old-timer,"  as  we  sat  down  to  the  table,  "  for  you  won't  get 
another  square  meal  till  you  get  back  here  again !  "  And  we 
ate ;  our  Mexican  friends  —  who,  though  strangers  to  good 
cooking,  knew  how  to  appreciate  it  —  gorged  themselves  till 
their  eyes  stuck  out  like  those  of  a  shrimp,  and  the  warning 
whistle  bade  them  desist.  Then  I  paid  my  dollar  and  departed, 
and  in  half  an  hour  was  over  the  line,  again  in  Mexico,  for  the 
fourth  time  on  this  journey. 

We  had  come  down  the  valley  of  the  Santa  Cruz  River, 
where  the  bottom  lands,  covered  with  luxuriant  grass,  and  the 
banks,  fringed  with  gigantic  cottonwoods,  made  it  the  most 
attractive  of  any  I  saw  in  all  Arizona.  How  tempting  this 
region  must  have  seemed  to  those  prospecters  who  penetrated 
Sonora  before  Arizona  became  ours  by  the  Gadsden  Purchase  ! 
Seeing  these  delightful  valleys,  after  their  weeks  of  hardship  on 
the  arid  plains  above,  they  concluded  that  the  whole  great 
province  was  one  equally  desirable.  But  in  this  they  were 
greatly  mistaken.  Speaking  in  general  terms,  Northern  Sonora 
and  Southern  Arizona  (at  this  point)  are  much  more  fertile  than 
Northern  Arizona  and  Southern  Sonora. 

The  frontier  town  of  Sonora,  where  the  railroad  enters,  is 
Nogales,  simply  a  double  row  of  slab  shanties  and  mud  huts, 
the  former  being  American,  the  latter  Mexican.  The  customs 
officials  of  both  republics  may  be  found  here,  who  make  a  pre- 
tence of  examining  one's  luggage.  As  soon  as  the  Border  is 
crossed,  }'ou  are  impressed  with  the  difference  between  Ameri- 
can energy  and  Mexican  thriftlessness.  I  was  reminded  of  what 
an  observant  writer,  Mr.  Bartlett,  once  wrote  of  Tubac,  which 
lies  on  the  banks  of  the  river  of  Santa  Cruz  :  "  In  a  book  of 
travels  in  a  strange  country,  one  is  expected  to  describe  every 


SONORA   AND   THE  APACHE   COUNTRY.  647 

town  he  visits ;  but  as  for  this  God-forsaken  place,  when  I  have 
said  that  it  contains  a  few  dilapidated  buildings  and  an  old 
church,  with  a  miserable  population,  I  have  said  about  all." 

It  was  after  midnight  when  we  arrived  at  Magdalena,  formerly 
a  frontier  town  of  much  importance,  but  of  which,  as  I  only  saw 
it  by  moonlight,  I  will  borrow  a  description  by  J.  Ross  Browne, 
who  made  his  mark  upon  this  country  twenty  years  ago :  "  The 
town  is  like  all  I  have  seen  in  Sonora,  a  parched-up  confusion 
of  adobe  huts  scattered  over  the  slope  of  a  barren  hill,  like  so 
many  mud  boxes.  The  earth  and  houses  are  pretty  much  of  the 
same  material  and  color,  while  mesquit  and  petayah  are  the  chief 
surrounding  objects  of  interest  and  ornament  in  the  way  of  vege- 
table life."  But  I  remember  that,  going  southward  to  Magdalena, 
we  ran  through  fields  and  gardens,  that  we  sorely  missed  be- 
yond, with  large  trees  standing  up  invitingly  draped  in  masses 
of  tangled  vines. 

A  curious  fraud  has  been  recently  unearthed  here,  regarding 
a  reported  discovery  of  ancient  ruins,  said  to  be  but  four  leagues 
distant  from  Magdalena,  and  consisting  of  "  a  pyramid  with  a 
base  of  1,850  feet,  and  a  height  of  750.  On  the  walls  of  the 
gloomy  rooms,  cut  out  of  solid  stone,  are  numerous  hiero- 
glyphics, and  representations  of  human  forms,  the  hands  of 
which,  strajtge  to  say,  have  five  fingers  and  one  thumb,  while 
the  feet  have  six  toes,"  etc. 

Now,  if  these  reports,  frequently  revived,  ended  with  the 
papers  that  gave  them  birth,  it  would  little  matter;  but,  un- 
fortunately, they  have  obtained  credence,  and  have  even  been 
copied  into  an  unreliable  book  on  the  Border  States,  the  editor 
of  which  was  more  desirous  to  obtain  notoriety  than  solicitous 
for  the  reputation  of  his  work,  and  whose  proceeding  cannot  be 
too  strongly  reprehended.  As  these  mythical  ruins  were  located 
on  the  borders  of  the  Apache  country,  where  a  traveller  ran 
extreme  risk  of  his  life,  it  will  be  seen  what  a  reckless  disregard 
these  unscrupulous-men  had  for  the  lives  of  those  who  should 
be  lured  here  by  their  malicious  lies.  I  had  intended  visiting 
the  locality  myself,  but  was  dissuaded  therefrom  by  Captain 
Bourke,  Aide-de-camp  to  General  Crook,  who  assured  me  that 


648  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

he  had  been  over  the  entire  region,  and  that  the  whole  story 
was  a  fabrication.  There  is  indeed  a  curious  natural  formation 
there,  worn  into  holes  in  which  people  may  have  lived,  as  no- 
mads, or  shepherds  tending  their  flocks. 

The  moon  lighted  up  a  country  mainly  sterile,  and  daylight 
did  not  reveal  one  more  attractive;  but  at  six  we  reached 
the  Sonora  River,  and  the  scenery  underwent  a  most  magi- 
cal change.  At  seven  we  ran  into  the  station  at  Hermosillo, 
the  "  beautiful  town,"  and  I  took  refuge  and  breakfast  at  the 
Hotel  Cosmopolita,  a  one-story  adobe,  hard  by  the  cemetery. 
This  city,  situated  on  the  Sonora  River,  ninety  miles  from  the 
Gulf  of  California,  contains  about  12,000  inhabitants.  The  soil 
of  the  highly  cultivated  valley  of  which  it  occupies  the  centre 
produces  great  crops  of  wheat,  and  its  gardens  are  full  of  fruit  in 
every  variety,  as  oi-anges,  melons,  figs,  lemons,  plantains,  dates, 
and  pomegranates.  Celebrated  alike  for  its  gardens  and  its 
lovely  doncellas,  Hermosillo  has  one  other  attraction  that  over- 
tops them  all,  in  a  peculiar  conical  hill,  called  El  Cerro  de  la 
Campana,  or  "  Hill  of  the  Bell,"  from  the  sonorous  quality  of 
the  rock  composing  it,  which  gives  out  a  clear  ringing  sound 
when  pieces  of  it  are  struck  together.  Great  masses  of  cane 
line  the  river  and  the  irrigation  canals,  the  accquias,  while  a 
verdurous  vegetation  surrounds  and  interlaces  the  adobe  dwell- 
ings of  town  and  suburbs.  It  is  the  distributing  centre  for  the 
productions  of  the  agricultural  country  of  Northern  and  Cen- 
tral Sonora,  and  it  also  has  some  mines  of  local  repute  in  its 
vicinity. 

The  climate  is  hot,  though  dry,  the  temperature  exceeding  80° 
and  even  100°,  with  little  change  throughout  the  year.  The 
finest  buildings  of  the  State  are  found  here,  the  principal  ones 
being  of  stone,  with  the  universal  portales  and  arcades,  seen 
in  perfection  in  every  Mexican  town,  a  nice  little  plaza,  and  a 
half-wild  park,  and  the  population  contains  the  flower  of  the 
Sonora  aristocracy.  In  spite  of  the  great  heat,  and  the  exceed- 
ingly filthy  condition  of  the  town,  Hermosillo  has  generally  es- 
caped the  epidemic  diseases  that  sometimes  ravage  the  coast; 
but  in  September,  1883,  the  vomito,  then  raging  at  Guaymas, 


SONORA   AND   THE   APACHE   COUNTRY.  649 

leaped  over  the  intervening  waste  of  country  and  spread  itself 
over  this  pleasant  valley. 

On  the  morning  of  June  20th,  as  I  was  about  taking  train  for 
Guaymas,  I  found  the  station  full  of  ladies  and  gentlemen,  who 
had  come  to  greet  the  "  divine  Peralta,"  the  famous  prima-donna 
of  Mexico.  Los  Mnsicos,  the  musicians,  were  assembled  in 
force,  and  the  brightest  and  prettiest  of  senoritas  flitted  gayly 
about,  shielding  their  sweet  faces  and  bright  eyes  from  the  too 
ardent  rays  oi  el  sol  \n\\\\  their  fans,  while  the  air  was  ringed  and 
streaked  with  the  smoke  of  a  hundred  cigarros.  A  sprightly 
Mexicano  was  circulating  printed  slips  containing  a  soncto  to  the 
gifted  singer,  S'ra  Angela  Peralta  de  Castera,  and  everybody 
was  on  the  tiptoe  of  expectation. 

To  the  great  disappointment  of  the  unsophisticated  beauties 
of  Hermosillo,  Peralta  did  not  arrive ;  and  the  episode  I  had 
witnessed  would  have  faded  away,  had  I  not  read,  in  a  paper  of 
three  months  later,  that  the  "  Nightingale  of  Mexico,"  with  several 
members  of  her  troupe,  had  died  of  yellow- fever  at  Mazatlan. 
Poor  Peralta !  I  doubt  not  that  the  gentle  dames  of  Sonora 
are  grieving  over  their  sister's  demise  to  this  day;  though  they 
had  cause  to  sorrow  over  their  own  ravaged  households.  I 
wonder  if  any  of  those  graceful  girls  who  regarded  el  Americano 
wonderingly  through  their  grated  windows,  or  if  any  of  those 
airy  young  men  who  so  politely  did  the  honors  of  their  city, 
have  fallen  victims  to  the  plague.  I  hope  not,  though  vague 
report  leads  me  to  fear  that  some  were  taken  away. 

I  remember  with  what  gracious  courtesy  one  of  these  lovely 
daughters  of  Hermosillo,  an  heiress  in  her  own  right  to  a  beau- 
tiful estate  and  a  deceased  parent's  horde  of  pesos,  gave  us  per- 
mission to  enter  the  patio  of  her  dwelling,  and  with  what  evident 
pleasure  she  directed  us  to  the  blossoming  gardens,  where  date 
palms  and  plantains  mingled  their  leaves,  and  where  the  orange 
and  fig  trees  were  full  of  cooing  doves  and  warbling  songsters. 
The  peace  and  delights  of  this  place  suggested  that  it  might 
not  be  amiss  to  cast  one's  lines  in  it  for  good  and  all ;  and  we 
did  not  wonder  that  some  of  our  countrymen  had  been  made 
captives  by  the  gentle  Mexicanas,  who  are  said  to  lend  a  willing 


650  TRAVELS    IN    MEXICO. 

ear  to  the  wooini^  of  the  Gringo.  The  "  dark-eyed  senorita," 
especially  in  the  Border  States,  is  a  very  different  being  from  the 
idealized  creature  of  the  painter  and  of  the  author  who  writes 
of  the  country  before  he  visits  it;  yet  there  are  some,  to  be  met 
with  at  exceedingly  long  intervals,  who  are  quite  attractive. 
Real  beauty  few  of  them  have,  but  nearly  all  are  sweet-tempered 
and  gentle-voiced,  while  sparkling  eyes  and  milk-white  teeth  are 
theirs  by  right  of  birth. 

The  only  town  of  importance  beyond  Hermosillo  is  Guaymas, 
chief  port  of  Sonora,  ninety  miles  distant,  on  the  Gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia. The  railroad  running  thither  is  a  splendid  piece  of 
work,  but  wasted  on  such  an  ungrateful  region  as  lies  between 
these  two  points,  for  in  the  dry  season  there  is  hardly  a  green 
thing  in  sight.  Though  the  rains  will  start  the  verdure  of  vege- 
tation, they  cannot  change  its  character,  and  other  than  mes- 
quit  and  cactus  there  is  little  variety ;  but  of  the  latter  there  are 
many  species,  nearly  all  in  bloom,  the  dry  stalks  gaudy  in  yel- 
lows and  reds.  Small  animals,  like  jack-rabbits,  are  numerous, 
and  skip  away  awkwardly  as  the  train  goes  by. 

Four  miles  distant  from  Guaymas  a  sea-breeze  fans  our 
cheeks,  as  the  road  crosses  the  blue  waters  of  a  broad  lagoon, 
over  a  bridge  and  causeway  five  thousand  feet  in  length,  and 
then  runs  along  attractive  bays,  and  among  cactus-covered  hills. 
The  fine  station  of  the  railroad  is  built  on  the  neck  of  an  isth- 
mus terminating  in  a  rocky  promontory,  half  a  mile  distant  from 
the  town.  The  company  owns  all  the  approaches  to  the  town, 
all  the  eligible  harbor  and  coast  sites,  and  has  run  a  spur  of 
the  road,  a  mile  or  so  in  length,  to  a  headland,  where  it  has 
built  a  wharf,  in  water  deep  enough  to  float  the  largest  steam- 
ers. This  is  done  in  anticipation  of  the  trade  that  is  to  spring 
up  when,  a  Trans-Pacific  line  of  steamers  running  to  Australia 
and  China,  traffic  and  travel  shall  take  this  course  across  our 
continent.  The  port  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  Mexican  coast, 
being  securely  land-locked,  enclosed  on  every  side  by  hills,  and 
its  shores  are  a  succession  of  island-dotted  bays. 

"  Guaymas,"  says  one  of  the  numerous  writers  on  Mexico, 
"  is  shut  in  from  the  Gulf,  as  well  as  from  the  winds,  by  high 


SONORA  AND   THE   APACHE   COUNTRY.  653 

rugged  hills,  entirely  destitute  of  vegetation,  and  reflecting  the 

rays  of  the  sun  until  the  place  seems  like  a  huge  oven 

The  country  around  Guaymas,  for  a  semicircle  of  about  one 
hundred  miles,  is  a  blasted,  barren  desert,  entirely  destitute 
of  wood,  water,  or  grass,  producing  only  cacti  and  a  stunted 
growth  of  mesquit.  The  water  is  all  procured  from  wells,  has  a 
brackish,  unpleasant  taste,  and  generally  causes  temporary  dis- 
eases with  those  unaccustomed  to  its  use." 

Situated  at  a  commanding  point  on  the  Gulf  of  California, 
Guaymas  should  control,  with  its  unequalled  connections  with 
the  United  States,  all  the  trade  of  the  upper  Gulf.  One  may 
voyage,  even  now,  down  the  coast,  to  Mazatlan  and  Acapulco ; 
and  over  across  the  Gulf,  almost  within  sight,  is  Lower  Califor- 
nia, a  fabled  land  of  riches,  but  of  hostile  shores  and  desert 
interior.  The  vast  Bay  of  Guaymas  is  ever  alive  with  fish,  and 
its  oysters  are  reputed  excellent ;  but  there  are  few  fishermen, 
the  principal  purveyors  for  all  the  markets  being  Indians,  from 
down  the  coast,  Yaquis  and  Mayos,  who  are  agriculturists, 
likewise,  and  so  far  advanced  as  to  deny  the  white  man  a  resi- 
dence within  their  towns.  The  Indians  of  Sonora  are  numer- 
ous and  interesting;  up  the  Gulf,  on  Tiburon  Island,  resides  a 
curious  family  called  the  Ceres,  which  once  was  powerful  and 
independent. 

A  good  tramway  connects  railroad  station  and  town,  where 
the  buildings  are  mostly  of  adobe,  and  all  of  one  story.  Most 
painful  to  note  is  the  total  lack  of  green;  of  gardens  there  are 
no  visible  tokens,  save  of  one,  over  a  hollow  in  the  hills  be- 
yond the  town,  where  a  thrifty  German  has  established  himself, 
and  taken  possession  of  a  small  grove  of  palms,  watered  by  a 
stream  fed  from  an  artesian  well.  On  the  way  there  you  pass 
the  water-works  of  Guaymas,  a  deep  well,  at  which  a  stalwart 
Indian  presides  and  doles  out  the  agiia  to  the  donkey  boys  from 
the  city. 

If  I  have  said  there  is  not  much  here  of  interest,  let  m.e  re- 
tract, in  favor  of  these  water-carriers  of  the  town.  They  are 
going  and  coming  all  the  day  long,  barefooted,  barefaced  little 
rascals,  of  Indian  descent,  who  sit  perched  astride  the  burro's 


654  TRAVELS   IN   MEXICO. 

hips,  and  guide  him  without  a  bridle,  or  even  a  stick.  Let  their 
pictures  speak  for  them.  Across  the  burro's  back  is  thrown  a 
hide-sack  of  leather,  a  pouch  of  which  on  either  side  is  filled 
with  water,  which  is  dispensed  to  customers  through  an  aperture 
in  the  bottom,  stopped  up  by  a  cow's  horn,  which  fills  it  tightly, 
owing  to  the  pressure  from  above. 

Notwithstanding  the  intense  heat,  and  the  fever  season  in 
prospective,  the  authorities  of  Guaymas  permitted  filth  and 
garbage  to  stare  one  in  the  face  at  every  turn.  As  might  have 
been  expected,  the  vomito  came  upon  the  town  in  August,  and 
raged  so  fiercely  that  few  of  the  living  remained  to  care  for  the 
sick  and  dead.  It  was  the  first  visitation  in  many  years  so  fatal 
in  its  consequences ;  and  if  the  local  officers  accept  the  lesson, 
and  use  their  endeavors  to  cleanse  the  place,  there  need  not  be 
such  a  recurrence  of  the  evil. 

Charles  Kingsley  once  called  the  port  of  St.  Thomas  a  Dutch- 
oven  of  a  place,  and  it  is  not  far  different  in  its  surroundings 
from  Guaymas,  both  being  half  surrounded  by  blistering  hills ; 
but  the  former  has  an  advantage  in  the  free  circulation  of  air. 
One  hundred  degrees  is  a  temperature  often  reached  in  Guay- 
mas, while  ninety-five  is  considered  remarkably  cool.  During 
the  two  nights  I  dwelt  there  I  nearly  perspired  myself  away, 
though  all  the  doors  of  the  hotel  were  open  from  sunset  to 
sunrise.  Music  and  moonlight  contributed  to  the  enjoyment 
of  evenings  passed  in  the  plaza,  and  after  the  mtisicos  had  de- 
parted it  was  interesting  to  watch  the  people  pouring  out  of 
their  adobe  hives,  and  stretching  their  cots  in  the  streets  and  on 
the  sidewalks.  Not  alone  men  and  boys,  but  girls  and  women, 
were  taking  up  their  beds  and  planting  them  outside  the  walls, 
where  only  they  could  get  a  breath  of  air  not  heated  to  the 
temperature  of  a  sirocco  blast. 

Guaymas,  just  previous  to  my  arrival,  had  passed  through  a 
gold  fever  without  a  precedent  in  several  years.  Reports  had 
come  across  the  Gulf  of  the  finding  of  placer  gold,  in  the  remote 
district  of  Mulege,  in  the  great  abundance  that  in  Upper  Cali- 
fornia astonished  the  world  a  century  ago.  People  poured 
down  from  the  mining  regions  of  Arizona,  drawn  to  this  region 


SONORA   AND  THE   APACHE  COUNTRY.  657 

by  the  representations  of  some  shopkeepers  of  Guaymas,  who 
wished  to  reduce  the  goods  in  their  overstocked  stores. 

Mulege  is  situated  southwest  of  Guaymas,  across  the  Gulf, 
and  could  only  be  reached  by  sailing-vessels,  which  were  over- 
crowded and  poorly  provisioned.  Arrived  on  the  eastern  shore 
of  Lower  California,  those  who  started  for  the  mining  region 
were  obliged  to  cross  a  waterless  desert,  only  to  find  the  gold 
district  a  fraud  and  disappointment.  Their  sufferings,  of  which 
they  had  a  foretaste  on  shipboard,  were  intense,  from  want  and 
thirst,  and  nearly  all  returned  to  Sonora  in  rags  and  poverty. 

At  no  time  has  Lower  California  been  the  rich  country  that 
tradition  makes  it  to  be,  although  some  of  the  first  religious 
missions  were  established  here,  and  have  formed  the  nuclei 
for  settlements  which  exist  at  the  present  day.  Near  Mulege 
itself,  surrounded  by  desert  and  far  remote  from  civilization,  is 
a  conventual  structure  that  is  most  impressive  in  its  ruin  and 
decay.  It  stands  there,  abandoned  to  Indians  and  wild  beasts, 
a  type  of  the  mission  building  of  the  distant  past,  when  every 
church  was  also  a  fort,  and  every  religious  edifice  a  veritable 
castle. 

Gold  and  silver,  pearls  and  precious  stones,  have  been  the 
alluring  phantoms  that  have  beckoned  the  fortune-hunter  on 
to  the  Gulf  of  California  for  centuries  past.  Pearls,  indeed, 
have  been  found  here  in  great  abundance.  Fifty  years  ago,  it 
is  said,  even  the  common  people  wore  them ;  but  of  late  the 
fisheries  have  languished,  as  their  seeking  requires  great  endur- 
ance in  the  divers,  and  the  efforts  to  introduce  diving-bells  have 
not  met  with  success. 

It  was  here  at  Guaymas,  on  the  shore  of  the  great  Gulf,  whose 
unknown  waters  were  sailed  by  Cortes  and  his  hardy  crew  three 
centuries  and  a  half  before,  that  I  turned  about  for  the  United 
States,  travelling  northward  and  eastward,  and  finally  reach- 
ing home  after  a  roundabout  journey  of  ten  thousand  miles  by 
rail. 

In  bringing  my  travels  to  so  peaceful  a  conclusion  I  feel  that 
I  shall  incur  the  displeasure  of  my  reader,  who  will  doubtless 
frown  upon  a  book  on  Mexico  without  a  robber  or  a  bandit  in 

42 


658 


TRAVELS    IN   MEXICO, 


it.  Yet  I  have  wandered  in  many  places  noted  as  the  haunts 
of  both,  and  it  has  not  been  altogether  my  own  fault  that  I  had 
no  particularly  exciting  adventures,  and  did  not  shoot  anything 
more  harmful  than  a  stump.  With  this,  let  me  say  farewell. 
Our  journey  is  ended.     Adios  ! 


INDEX. 


Abogado  Cristiano,  299. 

Aboriginal  city,  170;  mounds,  531. 

Academy  of  San  Carlos,  324. 

Acambaro,  town  of,  435,  575. 

Acapulco  trail,  the,  407  ;  port  of,  408. 

Acequia  (irrigating  ditch),  626. 

Acojote  (Aztec  acocotl),  water-throat,  344. 

Acolote  (water-way),  336. 

Acordada,  famous  prison  in  city  of  Mex- 
ico. At  various  times  the  prisoners 
confined  here  have  risen  in  revolt,  or 
have  been  let  loose  upon  the  peaceful 
population  of  the  city,  as  in  1828 ;  and 
in  1847  ^g^in,  when  they  were  liberated 
at  the  entrance  of  the  American  army, 
inflicting  more  mischief  and  causing 
more  terror  and  bloodshed  than  the 
invaders  themselves. 

Adobe  (ah-do'-bay),  sun-baked  bricks,  of 
which  walls  and  huts  are  made  in  Mex- 
ico; also  a  name  of  contempt;  Moor- 
ish-Spanish word;  Arabic,  al-toob ; 
ancient  Egyptian,  Adoub. 

Agave  Americana,  220. 

Agua  (water),  of  Mexico  city,  359. 

Aguada  (pond)  of  Uxmal,  78,  131. 

Aguador  (water-carrier),  287,  288. 

Aguamiel  (honey-water),  345, 346. 

Agua  Nueva  (village),  574. 

Aguardiente  (burning  water),  51. 

Agramont,  English  buccaneer,  185. 

Agricultural    machinery,    505;    methods, 

525- 
Ah  Tza,  sacred  book,  95. 
Ahuitzotl,  eighth  king  of  Mexico. 
Ahuehuete    (Aztec    ahtiehuetl),     cypress, 

268. 
Air,  rarefaction  of,  248. 
Ajutla,  town  of,  534. 
Akabna,  91 ;  arch  of,  85. 


I  Ake,  hacienda  of,  88 ;  katunes  of,  89 ;  gen- 
eral view  of,  90. 

A  la  grecque,  536,  539. 

Alameda,  the,  62,  236,  349. 

Alamo,  Spanish  for  Poplar,  whence  alame- 
da  ;  famous  fort  at  San  Antonio,  Texas. 

Alamos,  town  of  Sonora,  645. 

Alcalde,  el,  543,  550;  a  petty  judge,  from 
Arabic  al  cadi. 

Alerta  (watch-word),  112. 

Algodon,  cotton,  (from  an  Arabic  word,) 
indigenous  to  Mexico. 

Alley  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  231. 

Alligators  in  Cenotes,  116. 

Aloes,  sometimes,  though  improperly, 
applied  to  the  agave,  A.  Avierkana  or 
Mexicana.  The  agave  belongs  to  the 
order  Amaryllidaceje,  while  the  true 
aloe  is  of  the  order  Liliaceas.  Both 
are  found  in  Mexico. 

Alvarado,  leap  of,  267. 

Amecameca,  t^']'^. 

American,  colony,  354;  hotel,  354;  saint, 
first,  370 ;  disappointed,  560 ;  of  the 
Border,  615. 

Americanizing  Mexico,  616. 

Amigos  (friends)  113. 

Amolli,  or  soap-plant,  Sapindus  (.?),  the 
fruit  or  seed  of  a  plant  belonging  prob- 
ably to  the  Sapindace(c,  or  Soap-berry 
family,  an  Indian  substitute  for  soap, 
much  used  by  the  ancient  Mexicans, 
and  also  at  the  present  day  by  the 
poorer  classes.  In  Mexico,  the  fruit  of 
the  Copalxocotl. 

Ampudia,  General,  564. 

Anahuac,  220. 

Anales  del  Museo,  313. 

Ancona,  historian  of  Yucatan,  76;  his  de- 
scription of  Yucatan  ruins,  109. 


66o 


INDEX. 


Angeles,  Puebla  do  los,  501 . 

Angostura,  Pass  of,  574. 

Animal  life  of  Chihuahua,  605. 

Anquera,  covering  for  horses'  haunches. 

Antequera,  527. 

Anthony,  Ex-Governor,  616. 

Antiquarian  Society,  109. 

Antiquities,  305-309,  319,  323. 

Anuario,  299. 

Apache  depredations,  606,  608;  trail,  626; 
prisoners,  627  ;  squaws,  62S ;  scouts, 
visit  to  camp  of,  631;  warrior,  632; 
outrages,  634,  636;  stronghold,  634, 
638  ;  raid,  last  great,  636 ;  difficulties 
in  fighting  the,  636,  637 ;  region,  map 
of,  638. 

Anton  Lizardo,  port,  Gulf  terminus  of  the 
Mexican  Southern  Railway,  181. 

Apam  (plains  of  ),  345. 

Apartado,  451. 

Apizaco,  492. 

Aqueduct,  of  San  Cosme,  359 ;  the  double, 
403;  of  Queretaro,  481. 

Arbol  de  las  Manitos,  235 ;  de  la  Noche 
Triste,  26S  ;   de  Montezuma,  356. 

Arch,  Maya,  or  aboriginal  American,  77  ; 
of  Akabna,  85. 

Archaeological  field,  323. 

Archil  {rocella),  137. 

Architecture,  Mexican,  224, 

Arezuma,  land  of  gold,  644. 

Arizona,  travel  in,  644. 

Armadillo  (Aztec  ayotochtli),  or  tortoise- 
rabbit. 

Arriero,  a  muleteer,  280. 

Arroyo,  a  mountain  torrent. 

Arrastre,  462. 

Assumption  (golden  statue  of  the),  231. 

Astronomers,  Maya,  97. 

Atchison,  Topeka,  and  Santa  Fe  Rail- 
road, 595,  601. 

Athens  of  Anahuac,  the,  486. 

Atolli,  an  Indian  beverage  prepared  from 
maize,  in  use  among  the  ancient  inhab- 
itants of  Mexico  and  at  the  present  day ; 
a  kind  of  maize  gruel,  strengthening 
and  refreshing,  without  which  no  Indian 
field  laborer  is  content  to  work. 

Atoyac,  Bridge  of,  201. 

Avenue,  the  Grand,  349 ;  of  Bucarelli,  350. 

Axayacatl,  sixth  king  (Indian)  of  Mexico, 
235 ;  a  water  insect,  339. 


Axes,  of  copper,  544. 

Axolotl  (Si7-edon  lichenoides),  340. 

Ayme,  Consul,  45. 

Ayotla,  town  of,  339. 

Azcapozalco,  269.  A  town  in  the  Federal 
District,  connected  with  the  city  of  Mex- 
ico by  tramway.  The  ancient  town  of 
the  same  name  was  once  the  capital  of 
the  Tepanec  "  empire." 

Azotea  (roof-top),  224. 

Aztecs,  tribe  of,  in  Oaxaca,  529. 

Aztlan,  605. 

Baile  (ball),  a  native,  122. 

Bajio,  el,  region  of  the,  427. 

Ball,  a  Mestiza,  123. 

Balustrade,  a  valuable;  228. 

Banana  plantation,  406. 

Bandelier,  Prof.,  541. 

Bandoleros,  los,  336. 

Banner  of  Cortes,  308. 

Baptist  Mission,  298. 

Baratillo,  a  rag  fair. 

Barcena,  Manuel,  313. 

Barbacoa,  a  native  Haitian  word,  whence 

English  barbeate. 
Barranca,  of  Metlac,  210;  of  Cuernavaca, 

402  ;  of  Regla,  463. 
Barras,  las,  456. 
Bartlett,  Mr.,  on  Tubac,  647. 
Bassi  rilievi,  410. 
Baths,  of  Mexico  City,  354 ;  inimical  to 

the  leperos. 
Batopilas  Mining  Co.,  618 ;  mines,  619. 
Bear,  playing  the,  287. 
Bees,  stingless,  64. 
Beggars,  Mexican,  282. 
Benson,  town  in  Arizona,  644. 
Beneficiate,  from  a  Latin  word,  signifying 

"  to  realize " ;    the  separation  of   ores 

from  their  fluxes,  or  amalgams. 
Birds  of  Yucatan,  61. 
Bishop's  Palace,  564. 
Bit,  bridle,  and  spurs,  569. 
Bliss,  Mr.  P.  C,  no. 
Boca  del  Monte,  217. 
Book,  first,  published  in  Mexico  in  1536; 

stalls,  257. 
Bonanza,   a   sea  term,  used  by  Mexican 

miners     to    designate    a    mine     being 

worked  at  a  profit ;  mines  in,  448-450 ; 

of  Pedro  Torreros,  461. 


INDEX. 


66 1 


Bonito,  Apache  chief,  638. 

Bonos  (shares)  456. 

Border  States,  the,  551  et  seq. 

Borrasca  (storm J,  393. 

Borrego,  Mount,  214. 

Bota,  La,  215. 

Bouquets,  Mexican,  332. 

Bourke,  Captain,  63S,  64S. 

Border,  Mexican,  560,  5S0 ;  ruffian,  599. 

Brasero  (incense-burner),  144. 

Brickbats,  cakes  like  unto,  339. 

Bridge-building,  560. 

Brocklehurst,  Mr.  T.  U.,  486. 

Browne,  J.  Ross,  on  Magdalena,  647. 

Buchanan,  Mr.,  416. 

Buen  Retiro,  490. 

Buena  Vista,  hamlet  and  battle,  574. 

Bull-fight,  470,  518. 

Bull-ring   of   Puebla,   504;   of   Monterey, 

570. 
Burial  at  sea,  550. 

Burro,  el,  (the  donkey,)  364,  368,  654. 
Bustamente,  town,  561. 
Butler,  Rev.  Mr.,  254,  299,  486. 

Caballero,  equipment  of  the  Mexican, 
545  ;  en  viage,  546. 

Cabinet  woods,  524. 

Caboose,  riding  in  a,  621. 

Cacahuamilpa,  cavern,  413. 

Cacao  {Theobroma  cacao),  its  uses,  39. 

Cacti,  candelabrum,  517.  Mexico  belongs 
to  the  botanical  region  of  cacti. 

Cadets,  Mexican,  360. 

Cafetal,  a,  209. 

Calabasas,  station,  645. 

Calaboose,  Americans  in,  568;  in  pros- 
pect, 587. 

Caleza,  52,  56. 

Calendar,  Mexican,  312. 

Calle  (street)  del  Elefante,  86. 

Calzoneras,  280. 

Camino,  de  los  Muertos,  484 ;  Real,  88. 

Campeche,  156. 

Campo  Santo,  570. 

Candelabrum  cactus,  517. 

Cannibal  Indians,  534. 

Cansahcab,  village,  117. 

Cantaros  (water-jars),  62. 

Canto,  General,  117. 

Capote  de  Palma,  440. 

Capture  of  Cortes,  326. 


Caravan  days,  581 ;  trains,  582. 

Carbonera,  hamlet,  520. 

Carcel  (prison),  107. 

Cargadores  (carriers),  132. 

Carlotta,  Empress,  in  Yucatan,  88. 

Carmelite  convent,  367. 

Carmen,  island  of,  156. 

Carnival  in  Yucatan,  50  et  seq. 

Cart,  Mexican,  582. 

Catherwood,  Mr.,  71. 

Causeways  of  Mexico,  238. 

Cave  Period  (Aztec  MS.),  314. 

Casa  (House),  Municipal,  of  Merida,  33; 

del   Adivino,  66;   de    las    Monjas,  66; 

de  la  Viega,  67 ;  de  las  Tortugas,  67 ; 

Gobernador,  67,  78;  de  las  Pajaros,  80; 

de  las  Palomas,  67  ;  de  Piedras,  Palen- 

que,  160;    de  Moneda  (mint),   258     of 

Chihuahua,  617. 
Casas  Grandes,  valley  of,  606 ;  ruins  of, 

607,  628. 
Castillo,  el,  129;  de  Xochicalco,  409. 
Cathedral,  of  Merida,  Yucatan,  29 ;  great, 

of  Mexico,  description  of  interior,  228 ; 

view  from  tower  of,  231  ;  of  Tula,  475; 

of  Puebla,   500 ;  of  Monterey,    567 ;  of 

Guadalajara,  621. 
Catorce,  mines  of,  574. 
Cattle,  new  market  for,  5S6. 
Celaya,  city,  575. 
Cemetery,  in  Yucatan,  130 ;  neglect  of  the 

Mexican,  265;  American,  267. 
Cenote  (water-cave),  62  ;  fish,  63;  of  Ake, 

92;  of  Motul,  115;  of  Tabi,  116;  bird, 

116. 
Central    Railway,    concessions   of,    420 : 

length,  and  subsidy,  424;  cities  reached 

by,  426 ;  advance  of,  426,   433 ;   track 

completed,  434;  in  Chihuahua,  601,  620. 
Centeotl,   goddess  of  corn,  294. 
Ceres  Indians,  653. 
Cerritos  de  la  Pena,  520. 
Cerro  (hill),  140;  de  las  Campanas,  481  ; 

Colorado,  514 ;  de  la  Campana,  649. 
Cerro  Gordo,  pass  of,  189. 
Cerro  Mercado,  624. 

Chaacmol,  monolith  discovered  in  Yuca- 
tan, 96,  108. 
Chachalaka,  132. 
Chaffee,  Capt.  A.  R.,  638. 
Chalco,  lake  of,  237,  241  ;  town  of,  338. 
Champotan,  town  of,  156. 


662 


INDEX. 


Chapala,  largest  lake  in  Mexico,  estimated 
area  1350  sq.  miles. 

Chaparral,  a  word  derived  from  chaparra, 
a  holm-oak. 

Chaparreros,  546. 

Chapultepec,  355. 

Charney,  Desiree,  IIO. 

Chan  Santa  Cruz,  43. 

Chato,  Apache  chief,  632. 

Chihuahua,  the  great  frontier  State,  601 
et  seq.  ;  desert  region  of,  605  ;  Medanos 
of,  605;  city  of,  607-618;  cathedral  of, 
610,  611,  618;  Mail  (newspaper),  615. 

Chicharra  [cicada),  406. 

Chichen,  ruined  city  of,  95,  107 ;  engrav- 
ings of,  99,  105. 

Chichimecs,  634. 

Chilenos,  465. 

Chili  {Capsicum  annmim),  45,  399. 

Chinimpas,  or  floating  gardens,  335. 

Chinguerito,  Indian  corn  brandy. 

Chipi-chipi,  19 1. 

Chicjuihuite,  Bridge  of,  203. 

Chiricahua  Apaches,  634;  haunts  of,  634; 
pursued  by  General  Crook,  639;  on  the 
reservation,  643. 

Cholula,  pyramid  of,  50S-511;  village  of, 
510. 

Church,  Me.vican,  its  wealth,  499,  500;  its 
present  status,  291,  297. 

Church,  of  Santiago  (Yucatan),  52;  first 
in  Mexico,  475  ;  of  Paso  del  Norte,  593  ; 
interior  of,  597;  of  Chihuahua,  611,  618. 

Chupa-Mirta,  myrtle-sucker,  a  humming- 
bird. 

Cinchona,  207. 

Cinta,  la,  336. 

Citlaltepetl,  volcano  of,  177. 

City  of  Mexico,  231  ;  general  view  of, 
231,  245;  detailed  description  of,  232; 
causeways  of  the  original,  23S;  the 
new,  354. 

City  of  the  Angels,  501. 

City  of  the  Pass,  566. 

Civilizing  forces,  297. 

Climate  of  the  valley  of  Mexico,  244. 

Clay  heads,  of  Teotihuacan,485;  of  Mitla, 

545- 
Coal,  in  the  Rio  Grande  valley,  577. 

Coahuila,  State  of,  584. 
Coatlicue,  Aztec  deity,  294. 
Coatzcoalcos,  province  of,  156. 


Coca  {Erythroxylon  coca),  390. 

Cochineal,  cactus  and  insect,  529. 

Cock-pit,  Monterey,  573. 

Cocom,  king  of  Mayapan,  95. 

Coco  palm  {Cocos  nuc/fera),  186. 

Coffee,  districts,  205 ;  exports  of,  209 ; 
berries,  524. 

Cofre  de  Perote,  193. 

Cogolludo,  old  historian,  102. 

Colear,  to  throw  a  bull  over  by  the  tail. 

Columbus,  off  coast  of  Yucatan,  39;  mis- 
take of,  40;  statue  of,  351. 

Compadre,  comadre ;  French,  compire, 
commh-e. 

Companero,  a,  389. 

Comparison  of  ruined  cities,  75. 

Concessions,  list  of,  granted  to  Mexican 
railways,  419,  420. 

Conchos  River,  624. 

Conducta,  a,  281,  576. 

Congregationalist  Missions,  298. 

Conquistadores  (conquerors),  224;  en- 
trance of,  into  Mexico,  227. 

Convent  of  Tlascala,  493. 

Copan,  ruins  of,  75;  statue  from,  169. 

Copper  "axes,"  two  types  of,  544. 

Corallitos,  628. 

Cordova,  town  of,  302. 

Cordova,  H.  de,  discovers  Mexico,  40. 

Cornish  miners,  448. 

Corrco  (mail-coach),  151. 

Corrida  de  Toros  (bull-fight),  151,  470. 

Corridor  of  hacienda,  65. 

Cortes,  capture  of,  326 ;  statue  of,  350 ; 
trail  of  army  of,  386;  letters  of,  386,  387. 

Cotoche,  Cape,  143. 

Cotton  culture,  486. 

Cow,  the  Mexican,  384. 

Coyote,  (Aztec  coyotl,)  a  jackal. 

Cozumel,  island  of,  142,  143. 

Crawford,  Captain  of  .\pache  scouts,  631. 

Creoles,  number  of,  customs,  etc.,  272- 
279. 

Criollos  (Creoles),  type  of,  277. 

Crook,  General,  arrives  on  frontier,  629; 
interview  with,  630;  as  an  Indian 
fighter,  637  ;  hazardous  expedition  of, 
637  ;  defence  of  campaign  of,  641. 

Cross,  the  black,  498,  513,  380. 

Cruz  del  Marques,  400 

Crypts  of  Xochicalco,  411. 

Cuautla,  town  of,  442. 


INDEX. 


663 


Cuautitlan,  town  of,  470. 

Cubas,  Senor  A.  G.,  272,  414,  484. 

Cuernavaca,  400;   vale  of,  405. 

Cuidado  (beware),  381. 

Cuilapan,  town  of,  529. 

Cuisine,  economy  of  the  Mexican,  44. 

Cusihuiriachic,  mining  district  of,  619. 

Customs,  table,  134;  duties,  182  ;  officials, 

polite,  182. 
Customs  of  the  Border  Mexican,  614. 
Cypress,  of  Noche  Triste,  268 ;  of  Chapul- 

tepec,  355. 

Dance,  the  Mestiza,  122. 

Dancing  against  one's  will,  123. 

Death  scene,  a,  124. 

Depopulated  towns,  634. 

Denounce,  to,  "  in  the  mining  code  of 
Mexico,  implies  that  process  by  which 
a  legal  right  of  possession  is  obtained 
to  a  particular  portion  of  a-  vein,  worked 
or  unworked,  known  or  unknown,  which 
a  miner  chooses  to  select." 

Desagiie  (drain)  of  Huehuetoca,  242. 

Desierto,  el,  363  ;  convent  of,  367  ;  bridge 
at,  368. 

Devil,  the,  291. 

Diaz,  Bernal,  a  native  of  Medina  del 
Campo  in  Old  Castile,  came  to  the  New 
World  in  1514:  historian  of  the  con- 
quest, 40;  quoted  from,  185,  23S. 

Diaz,  General  Porlirio,  Ex-President,  fight 
of,  with  the  French,  516. 

Diaz  de  Solis,  Juan,  40. 

Diego,  Juan,  and  his  apparition,  369. 

Diligence,  Journey  in  a,  396  et  seq. ;  the 
Mexican,    396;    south   from    Monterey, 

572. 
Disaster,  a,  147. 
Diviner's  House,  80. 
Dolores  Hidalgo,  575. 
Dominguillo,  village  of,  518. 
Doncellas,  of  Jalapa,  191  ;  of  Hermosillo, 

650. 
Donkey  boys  of  Guaymas,  655. 
Don  Domingo,  375. 
Doniphan,  Col.,  608. 
Dragoon  Summit,  629. 
Drainage  of  Valley  of  Mexico,  242,  243; 

schemes  for,  243. 
Dumb  dog,  the,  320. 
Durango,  State  of,  432. 


Dutch  oven  of  a  place,  654. 
Dwellings,  of  the  Dead  (Mitla),   535;  of 
the  different  zones,  213. 

Eagle  Pass,  5S0,  591. 

Eaton,  Rev.  J.  D.,  617. 

Egyptian  resemblances,  98,  102. 

Ejutla,  valley  of,  51 1,  523. 

Electric  Light,  the,  355. 

"  Elephant  Trunks,"  at  Uxmal,  79. 

El  Paso,  city,  595 ;  valley,  596. 

Embarcaderos,  136. 

Embrace,  a  Mexican,  289. 

Empefios,  Los,  283. 

Encinillas,  station  of,  607. 

Engineer,  the  ubiquitous,  188. 

English  language,  a  town  in  which  it  had 

never  been   spoken,    120;    newspapers 

in,  304. 
Escandon,  Sehor,  416. 
Esperanza,  station  of,  217  ;    long  ride  to, 

547- 
Estrella  de  la  Mar,  177. 
Estrella,  Cerro  de  la,  336. 
Etla,  valley  of,  520. 
Europeans,  in  Mexico,  272. 
Evans,  Captain,  309. 

Fairlie  engine,  the,  217. 

Farmer,  a  Mexican,  407. 

Farming  in  Chihuahua,  625. 

Feasts  and  Festivals,  291  et  seq. :  of  the 

Aztecs,  295;  of  the  Church,  295. 
Feather  work,  Aztec,  321. 
Felipe,  Don,  and  his  cow,  348  ;  a  medico, 

376- 
Ferrocarril  Mexicana,  218. 
Ferrocarriles  Mexicanos,  los,  419. 
Fiebeger,  Lieut.  G.   J.,   628  ;    replies   to 

Crook's  detractors,  640. 
Fiesta,  a,  518. 
Figures  in  wax,  322,  326. 
Filigree  work,  silver,  321. 
Fire,  the  new,  337. 
Floating  Gardens,  332-336. 
Florida  coast,  off  the,  550. 
Florida  River,  624,  625. 
Flores,  Padre,  467. 
Flores,  town  of,  168. 
Flower  market,  the,  331. 
Flowers,  where  they  come  from,  332. 
Font,  ancient,  in  Tlascala,  494,  495. 


664 


INDEX. 


Fop,  the  Mexican,  252. 
Forests  of  Popocatapetl,  379. 
Fraud  exposed,  648. 
French,  battle  with  the,  502. 
Fresh-water  springs  in  the  ocean,  141. 
Frijoles  (beans),  use  of,  45. 
From  Coast  to  Capital,  194  et  seq. 
Frontera,  port  of,  173. 
Fruit-seller  of  Yucatan,  150. 
Fruits  of  three  zones,  213,  524. 
Funeral  cars,  265. 

Gaehupin,  (Aztec  cac-chopina,  or  prickly 
shoes,)  applied  to  the  Spaniards,  from 
their  wearing  spurs. 

Gadsden  Purchase,  that  part  of  Arizona 
and  New  Mexico  south  of  the  river  Gila, 
obtained  for  the  United  States  from 
Mexico  for  $10,000,000,  December  30, 
1853;  area  of  purchase,  45,535  square 
miles. 

Gallejo,  station  of,  606. 

Gardens,  floating,  332-336;  of  Laborde, 
404;  of  Maximilian,  414;  ideal,  487. 

Garita,  a,  47. 

Garrapatas  (ticks),  64,  150. 

Gatewood,  Lieut.,  631. 

Gaumer,  Prof.  G.,  116. 

Gage,  Thomas,  339,  363  ;  describes  Popo- 
catapetl, 391. 

Galleon,  the  Acapulco,  408. 

Galveston,  Harrisburg,  and  San  Antonio 
Railroad,  578. 

Gambling  centre,  a,  360. 

Garfield,  news  of  death  of,  received  in 
Mexico,  505. 

Gente  de  razon,  275,  389. 

Geographical  position  of  Mexico  City,  244. 

Glyphs  of  Palenque,  163. 

Gnomon  mound,  96. 

God,  of  storms,  375;  of  the  air,  481. 

Gods  and  goddesses  of  Mexico,  293 ; 
Aztec,  294,  308. 

Gold  and  silver,  works  of,  321. 

Golden  throne,  the  buried,  520. 

Gondola,  the  Mexican,  333. 

Gonzalez,  President,  304. 

Good  Friday,  festival  of,  292. 

Gould  System  of  Railways,  559. 

Governor's  Palace,  Oaxaca,  521. 

"  Greaser,"  protest  of  the,  586. 

Grapes  of  Paso  del  Norte,  599. 


Grass-seller,  the,  87. 

Grijalva,  Juan  de,  voyage  of,  358. 

Guadalajara,  cathedral  of,  525. 

Guadalupe,  Virgin  of,  369 ;  chapel  of,  369. 

Guanajuato,  city  of,  437. 

Guatemotzin,  eleventh  and  last  Aztec 
king,  bust  of,  334 ;  statue  of,  350. 

Guatemotzin  mine,  454. 

Guaxaca  (Oaxaca),  523. 

Guide,  Indian,  147. 

Guendolain,  estate  of,  518. 

Grant,  General,  Lieutenant  in  Mexican 
war,  396;  visits  Mexico,  528;  prevision 
of,  616. 

Grecque  (ornamentation),  536,  539. 

Greenwood,  Colonel,  murder  of,  268. 

Grand  Turkey  Hunt,  a,  112  et  seq. 

Gulf  Stream,  crossing  the,  550. 

Gringo  (as  applied  to  a  language,  unintel- 
ligible, gibberish),  649. 

Gulf  of  California,  657. 

Guaymas,  port  of,  650 ;  view  of,  651 ;  fine 
harbor  of,  653 ;  commanding  situation 
of,  653  ;  great  heat  of,  654. 

Hacendado  (hacienda  owner),  61. 

Hacer  el  oso,  287. 

Hacienda,  of  Ake,  88 ;  of  Santa  Anna,  i87; 
explanation  of  term,  459 ;  of  Regla,  459 ; 
of  San  Miguel,  465 ;  of  Huehuetoca, 
470;  the  typical,  507  ;  of  Saga,  541  ;  of 
Jaral,  575;  of  Don  Enrique  Miiller, 
623;  vast,  of  Chihuahua,  625. 

Haiti,  or  Hispaniola,  39. 

Hammocks,  the  land  of,  85. 

Hand-flower,  the,  236. 

Handiwork,  Mexican,  329. 

Harte,  Bret,  408. 

Havana,  return  to,  549. 

Head,  gigantic,  of  Izamal,  103. 

Hedges  of  cactus,  516. 

Hell,  the  Little,  215. 

Henequen  (Sisal  hemp),  28,  82  et  seq.; 
exports  of,  84;  wild,  139. 

Hermanas  (sisters),  401. 

Hermanos  (brothers),  401. 

Hermosillo,  city  of,  648;  climate  of,  649; 
senoritas  of,  650. 

Herrera,  quotations  from,  40,  128. 

Hidalgo,  patriot,  where  executed,  617. 

Hieroglyphs  of  Uxmal,  71  ;  of  Mayapan, 
97 ;  of  Palenque,  160 ;  of  Mitla,  538. 


INDEX. 


665 


Highway,  old,  into  Mexico,  581. 

Hispano-English,  124. 

Hill,  of  the  Star,  337  ;  that  Smokes,  375 ; 
of  Flowers,  408  ;  of  Bells,  549. 

Holidays,  Mexican,  296. 

Honduras,  Gulf  of,  40. 

Honey,  fragrant,  64. 

Honesty  of  the  Yucatecos,  155. 

Hooper,  the  typical  speculator,  250. 

Horseback,  a  trip  on,  515;  a  long  ride 
on,  546. 

Horse-cars,  265 ;  of  Puebla,  507. 

Horses  of  Cortes,  first  in  Mexico,  158. 

Hotel,  Iturbide,  253;  American,  353; 
portal,  579;  last,  in  Arizona,  646. 

Hotel  car,  across  Texas  in  a,  554. 

House,  of  the  Prophet,  67 ;  of  the  Gov- 
ernor, 67 ;  of  the  Nuns,  67 ;  of  the 
Pigeons,  67  ;  of  the  Old  Woman,  67 ; 
of  the  Dwarf,  67;  of  the  Turtles,  68. 

Huachuca,  644. 

Huamantla,  219. 

Huehuetoca,  great  canal  of,  242 ;  hacienda 
of,  470. 

Huejuquilla,  town,  626. 

Huitzilopochtli,  306,  314,  331. 

Huitzo,  town  of,  520;  dialect  spoken  in, 

523- 
Humboldt  in  Mexico,  257  ;  on  Popocata- 

petl,  392. 
Huntington,  C.  P.,  578. 

Idols,  clay,  at  Mitla,  541  ;  Central  Ameri- 
can, 600. 

Immigrants,  chances  for,  525. 

Incense,  145;  burner,  146. 

Infernillo,  El,  215. 

Indians,  when  first  seen,  39 ;  of  Yucatan, 
43;  indifference  to  death,  124;  number 
of,  272;  description  of  some,  273-276; 
agricultural,  not  warlike,  530 ;  of  Oaxa- 
ca,  532;  carriers,  400;  of  Chihuahua, 
626;  of  Sonora,  657. 

Inquisition,  palace  of  the,  261. 

Intellectual  growth  of  Mexico,  529. 

Intervention,  the  French,  185. 

Inundation  of  Mexico  City,  241. 

International  Railway,  426,  580,  584; 
bridge  over  Rio  Grande,  584. 

International  and  Great  Northern  Rail- 
way, 577. 

Interoceanic  Railway,  421. 


Institute  of  San  Carlos,  329 ;  of  Oaxaca, 

528. 
Invasion,  the  North  American,  566. 
Irrigation,  benefits  of,  599. 
Isla  Sacrificios,  174. 
Iturbide,  Hotel,  253. 
Itzaes,  people  of  Yucatan,  95. 
Itzamal,  town  of,  102. 
Itzamna,  Itza  hero,  102. 
Itzli,  or  obsidian,  383. 
Ixtle,  the  fibre  of  a  species  of  agave  with 

smaller  leaves  than  that  yielding  pulque. 
Ixtlilxochitl,    learned    Indian   writer ;     a 

prince  of  Tezcoco. 
Iztaccihuatl,  volcano  of,  373. 
Iztapalapa,  238. 

Jail,  a  Mexican,  627. 

Jalap,  193. 

Jalapa,  186;  gardens,  190;  doncellas,  191. 

Jalapenas,  las,  191. 

Jaral,  hacienda  of,  575. 

Jefe  politico,  a,  121. 

Jorullo,  volcano  of,  372. 

Joy  of  the  Water,  214. 

Joya,  La,  valley  of,  215. 

Juarez,  Benito,  tomb  of,  263. 

Judas,  effigies  of,  292. 

Justice,  tardy,  568. 

Kabah,  ruins  of,  72,  no. 

Katunes,  or  calendar  stones,  89;  columns 

of  the,  92. 
Kermes  (scarlet  grain),  529. 
Kickapoos,  588. 
Kingdom  of  Nuevo  Leon,  562. 
King's  fifth  (of  silver),  450. 
Kukulkan,  loi. 

La  Bord,  gardens  of,  404. 

Laborers,  wages  of,  473. 

Labna,  ruins  of,  72. 

Las  Casas,  Bishop  of  Chiapas,  325. 

Ladrones,  576. 

Laguna  country,  584. 

La  Encantada,  574. 

La  Joya,  valley  of,  215. 

La  Mitra,  562. 

La  Viga,  canal  of,  333. 

Lamp,  golden,  503. 

Lampasos,  561. 

Land,  how  held,  506,  525. 


666 


INDEX. 


Landa's  "Relacion,"  102. 

Laredo,  Presidio  of,  555;  town  of,  556; 

climate  of,  559. 
La  Silla,  562. 
Legend,  an  Indian,  66. 
Leperos,  Mexican  beggars,  285. 
Le  Plongeon,  Doctor,  77,  108. 
Lerma,  valley  of,  446. 
Levels,  relative,  of  lakes  and  Mexico  City, 

241. 
Libraries,  257,  303;  of  Puebla,  504. 
Licor  del  pais,  518,  587. 
Lioba  (Mitla),  535. 
Lisa,  a  kind  of  fish,  141. 
Literature,  Mexican,  303;  religious,  301. 
Llanos  (plains),  195. 
Loco,  Apache  chief,  632. 
Logwood  forests,  in  the,  126,  136. 
Lorencillo,  the  pirate,  185. 
Lorillard  City,  171. 
Los  Americanos,  615. 
Los  Reyes,  mine  of,  467. 
Lovemaking,  Mexican,  287. 
Lower  California,  657. 

Mackay,  Lieutenant,  638. 
Madre  Pulque,  344. 
Magdalena,  Sonora,  647. 
Magistral,  mixture  of  copper  pyrites  and 
sulphuret  of  iron,  roasted  in  a  reverba- 
tory  furnace. 
Maguey,  341,  342,  343- 
Maize,  indigenous  to  Mexico. 
Malacate,  371. 
Maltrata,  vale  of,  216. 
Mariana  (to-morrow),  139,  309. 
Mangroves,  141. 
Manga  de  Agua,  545. 
Manuscript,  Aztec,  313,  316. 
Manzana  (a  sq.  measure),  223. 
Manzanillo,  port  of,  441 
Map,   general    colored,    21;    of    Mexican 
Missions,    300 ;    of   Railways,   417 ;    of 
Mexico,  424;   of  Puebla   and  vicinity, 
503 ;  of  Apache  country,  639. 
Mapilca,  ruins  of,  191. 
Maravatio  City,  441,  576. 
Marble,  Mexican,  504. 
Marco,  a,  457. 

Markets  of  Mexico  City,  327-330;  ancient 
Aztec,  327  ;  of  Puebla,  504 ;  of  Oaxaca, 
526. 


Marina,  mistress  of  Cortes,  158. 

Marimba,  primitive  piano,  in  u.se  amongst 
Indians  of  Southern  Mexico,  also  in 
Africa. 

Mariner©  (a  bird),  139. 

"  Marquis  of  the  Valley,"  the,  398,  527. 

Martinez,  Enrique,  celebrated  Mexican 
engineer,  241. 

"  Massacre  in  the  Temple,"  325. 

Mastic  {pistacia),  136. 

Maverick,  The,  (newspaper,)  580. 

Maximilian,  356. 

Mayapan,  97-112. 

Mayas,  nation  of,  53,  55  ;  a  cultured  race, 
92  ;  genesis  of  the,  94 ;  language  of,  102. 

Mayoral,  el,  149. 

Mayos,  Indians,  653. 

McComas,  Judge,  murdered,  630;  his  son 
Charley,  630. 

McManus  &  Co.,  618. 

Mecate  (land  measure),  82. 

Medanos,  of  Vera  Cruz,  174;  of  Chihua- 
hua, 605. 

Medico  (doctor),  a,  149,  376. 

Medino,  famous  Mexican  miner,  447. 

Medio  (half  a  real). 

Merida,  capital  of  Yucatan,  31  et  seq. ; 
markets  of,  46 :  city  gates  of,  47  ;  in- 
habitants of,  49. 

Mesa,  the,  of  Sefior  Milmo,  561. 

Mescal  (native  rum),  346. 

Meson  (hostelry),  364. 

Mesquit  (Aztec  Mezqidtl). 

Mestiza,  Mestizo,  definition  of  term,  43; 
ball,  n8;  costume,  119,  123. 

Mestizos,  as  operatives,  84;  number  of, 
in  Mexico,  272;  origin  of,  279;  morals 
of,  281. 

Metallic  mush,  449. 

Metatl,  Indian  corn  mill. 

Meteorological  Observatory,  235. 

Methodist  Missions,  29S,  301. 

Metlac,  barranca  of,  210. 

Mexicalcingo,  336. 

Mexican,  a  chapter  on  the,  271-290 ;  finan- 
cier, the,  304;  paintings,  324,  326; 
spurs,  592;  the  conservative,  614. 

Mexican  Railway,  421-424  ;  map  of,  424. 

Mexican  Southern  Railroad,  559. 

Mexico,  birdseye  view  of,  194 ;  transcon- 
tinental profile  of,  195 

Michoacan,  coffee  of,  209. 


INDEX. 


667 


Mictlan,  the  Mexican  hades. 

Mictlancihuatl,  goddess  of  hell. 

Mictlanteuctli,  Aztec  god  of  hell. 

Milk,  how  sold,  348. 

Milkman,  depravity  of  the,  348. 

Milpa  (field),  149. 

Mimbre,  beautiful  shrub  of  North  Mexico. 

Minerals  of  Coahuila,  585. 

Miners,  Mexican,  453;  murderous,  468. 

Mineria,  or  School  of  Mines,  252. 

Mines  of  Mexico,  446  et  seq. :  of  Pachuca, 
466 ;  richest  of  Mexico,  467  ;  recent 
development  of,  467 ;  of  Guanajuato, 
467  ;  of  Sonora,  467  ;  of  Zacatecas,  467. 

Mining  Laws,  455 ;  Regions,  458. 

Mint,  coinage  of  the,  258. 

Miraflores,  factory  of,  84. 

Misantla,  ruins  of,  191. 

Missionaries,  301 ;  murder  of,  303 ;  shot 
at,  486. 

Mission  period,  554. 

Missions  of  Mexico,  298 ;  map  of,  300. 

Missouri  Pacific  Railroad,  51S. 

Mitla,  Zapotec  burial-place,  531-542; 
ruins  of,  536;  grand  hall  of,  532 ;  mono- 
liths, 535;  mosaic,  536;  sculptures,  539. 

Mixcoatl,  goddess  of  hunting,  295. 

Mixe  Indians,  534. 

Miztecs,  nation  of,  520,  529. 

Molino  del  Rey,  360. 

Momotus,  species  of,  116. 

Monclova,  584. 

Money,  first  coinage  of,  in  Mexico,  342. 

Monks,  Mexican,  366. 

Monoliths  of  Mitla,  535. 

Montaiia  de  los  Organos,  447. 

Monte,  Mexican  cards,  633. 

Monte  Alban,  529. 

Montejo,  Francisco  de,  41. 

Monte  Piedad,  251. 

Monterey,  plain  of,  562  ;  city  of,  564 ;  fight 
at,  564 ;  as  a  health  resort,  565. 

Montezuma,  fights  the  Chalchese,  338 ; 
his  tree,  356;  his  harem,  357;  his  bath, 
359 ;  armies  of,  in  Oaxaca,  529 ;  "  Chair 
of,"  606. 

Monton,  a,  457. 

Morelet,  M.  Arthur,  170. 

Morelia  City,  441. 

Morgan,  Hon.  Mr.,  396. 

Mother  of  the  gods,  295. 

Motul,  town  of,  115;  cenote  of,  115. 


Mound,  the . nameless,  80;  Gnomon,  96; 

of  Dilam,  128. 
Mozo  (servant),  464. 
Mucuyche,  hacienda  of,  63. 
Mujer  Blanca,  La,  374. 
Mujeres,  Isla  de,  143. 
Mule  teams,  620. 
Mulege,  gold  district  of,  654,  657. 
Miiller,  Don  Enrique,  608;   hacienda  of, 

621. 
Mural  paintings,  107. 
Murder,  a  brutal,  568. 
Murderers  in  the  army,  570. 
Museo,  Nacional,  305. 
Museums,  Mexican,  305,  310. 
Musician,  a  strolling,  468. 
Musicos,  los,  (musicians,)   122. 
Mysterious  city,  167-170. 
Muy  temprano,  130. 

Nameless  mound,  80. 

Nana,  an  Apache,  632. 

Narrow-gauge  railways,  441,  514. 

National  Railway,  421  ;  length  and  sub- 
sidy, 434;  cities  on  the  line,  435;  com- 
pleted track,  441,  560. 

Naturalist,  respect  for  a,  512. 

Navajas,  Cerro  de  las,  465. 

Neutli  (pulque),  341. 

Newspapers  of  the  Republic,  303. 

New  York  to  St.  Louis,  553. 

Nieve  (snow),  382. 

Night,  in  camp,  135  ;  in  a  forest,  380. 

Nezahualcoyotl,  Prince  of  Tezcoco,  489 ; 
palace  of,  490. 

Noche  triste,  tree  of,  268. 

Nochistongo,  canal  of,  242. 

Nogales,  frontier  town,  649. 

No  hay,  364. 

Nomadic  period  (Aztec  MS.),  316. 

Nopal,  529. 

Norman,  Mr.,  67,  107. 

Norther,  a,  548. 

North  American  invasion,  586. 

Nuestra  Seiiora,  270. 

Oa.xaca,  journey  to,  515-523;  valley  of, 
525 ;  resources  of,  524,  527 ;  market- 
place of,  526. 

Obsidian  (Aztec  itztli),  318;  mines  of,  464. 

Ocellated  turkey,  112,  150. 

Ocotl,  resinous  pine  used  for  torches. 

Octli,  341. 


668 


INDEX. 


Ojos  de  Agua,  466. 

Olla,  a  boiling-pot. 

Omecihuatl,  319. 

Ometeuctli,  319. 

On  the  way  to  market  (view),  399. 

Onyx,  Mexican,  503. 

Opals,  richest  district  of,  in  Queretaro. 

Opuntia,  529. 

Oracion,  64. 

Oranges,  mule-loads  of,  534. 

Ord,  General,  181. 

Organ  Mountains,  447. 

Organo  cactus,  517,  529. 

Oriental  Railway,  421,  559. 

Orizaba,    volcano    of,    177;    town,    214; 

peak  and  crater,  218  ;  height  of,  371. 
Ornaments,  Apache,  633. 
Otomi  language,  418. 
Otumba,  town,  220. 
Outrages,  Apache,  634. 
Ozumba,  view  from,  443. 

Pachuca,  mines  of,  450 ;  city  of,  447. 

Paintings,  in  the  Academy,  324 ;  at  Kabah, 
no;  of  Puebla,  504;  ancient,  in  Tlas- 
cala,  492. 

Painted  caves,  591. 

Pajaros  preciosos,  132. 

Palaces,  of  Mexico,  235;  of  Cortes,  405; 
of  Mitla,  the  wonderful,  531  et  seq. 

Palenque  and  the  Phantom  City  155  et 
seq.;  plan  of,  157;  first  mention  of, 
159;  restored,  160;  tablet,  163;  sculp- 
tured fragment  from,  411. 

Palisades  of  Regla,  459. 

Palmer-Sullivan  concession,  434. 

Palms  of  the  coast,  196. 

Palo  Blanco,  561. 

Palo  tinto,  136. 

Panteon  of  S.  Fernando,  263. 

Papantla,  pyramid  of,  192. 

Papantzin,  341. 

Paredones,  541. 

Parian  of  Monterey,  571. 

Parque  de  Ysabel,  549. 

Parra,  Felix,  325. 

Paseo  (walk,  drive),  334. 

Paseo  Grande,  349;  de  la  Reforma,  349. 

Paso  del  Norte,  596 ;  old  church  of,  593. 

Paso  del  Macho,  201. 

Patio  (court),  in  Yucatan,  55  ;  in  Mexico, 
224;  system  of  reducing  ore,  462. 


Patterson,  Rev.  Mr.,  401. 

Patzcuaro,  441. 

Pavo  del  Monte,  137. 

Pawning  an  organ,  284. 

Pawnshops,  252. 

Paxi,  340. 

Pay  train,  a,  440. 

Pearls  of  Gulf  of  California,  657. 

Pecos  and  Rio  Grande  Railway,  577. 

Pecos  River,  591. 

Pedregal,  453 ;  fight  of  the,  454. 

Penas  Cargadas,  457. 

Penates,  Mexican,  319. 

Peon,  Don  Alvaro,  88. 

Peon,  the  faithful,  381. 

Peralta,  Angela,  death  of,  649. 

Perez,  Don  Juan,  98. 

Perote,  Cofre  de,  193. 

Perro  mudo,  el,  320. 

Petate,  394. 

Peten,  forests  of,  168. 

Petahaya,  or  Petaya,  a  giant  cactus,  644. 

Picture-writing,  Aztec,  316. 

Pinzon,  Spanish  navigator,  40. 

Pic  (Maya  word),  118. 

Pickpockets,  Mexican,  247. 

Pico  del  Fraile,  375. 

Piedras  Negras,  581. 

Pierce,  Col.  T.  N.,  578. 

Pillar  of  Death,  537. 

Pines,  limit  of,  378,  385. 

Pita  (thread),  342. 

Plateau,  ascending  the,  215 ;  on  the,  220. 

Plaza,  of  Vera  Cruz,  178 ;  Grande,  of  Mex- 
ico City,  349;  horizontal,  392;  and  La 
Mitra,  the,  563;  of  Zaragoza,  570. 

Plazuela  of  Paso  del  Norte.  599. 

Pleasant  travelling,  578. 

Plough,  a  Mexican,  506 ;  treatment  of  an 
American,  507. 

Plumaje,  321. 

Plumed  Serpent,  the,  Quetzalcoatl,  or 
Kukulcan,  481,  508. 

Plunder,  Apache,  633. 

Pobrecito,  130. 

Popocatapetl,  371  et  seq.  ;  view  of,  377  ; 
ascent  of ,  37 5-390 ;  peak  of  (views),  384, 
393;  cone  of,  389;  snow-line  of,  385; 
Mexico  Valley  from,  387  ;  crater  of 
(view),  392  ;  height  of,  394. 

Policy,  Indian,  of  Mexico,  627 ;  of  the 
United  States,  628,  633. 


INDEX. 


669 


Polite  offer,  148. 

Popotla,  269. 

Population  of  Mexico.  272. 

Polvo  (dust),  446. 

Port  of  San  Bias  (view),  428. 

Portales  (arcades),  236,  502,  528 

Portero,  el,  224. 

Porto  Rico,  allusion  to,  320. 

Pottery,   Mexican,  271;    of   Guadalajara, 

620. 
Prairie  Schooner,  592. 
Presidio  del  Norte,  592. 
Presbyterian  Missions,  298. 
Prices  of  provisions,  etc.,  505. 
Progreso,  port  of,  25,  549 ;    and  Merida 

railway,  27. 
Progress  of  Mexico,  302. 
Proletarians,  283. 
Pronunciamientos,  546. 
Protestantism  in  Mexico,  254,  298,  302. 
Proyecta  de  Guerra,  627. 
Publications  in  Mexico,  303. 
Puebla,  city  of,  49S,  508;  valley  (view  of), 

501 ;  map  of,  and  vicinity,  503. 
Pueblos,  601,  602. 
Puente  Nacional,  187. 
Puerta  de  Dilam,  148. 
Pulpit,  first,  in  America,  493. 
Pulque,  a  drink,  discovery  of,  340  ;  plant 

producing    it,    341  ;    how   made,    343 ; 

taste  and  qualities,   346;    analysis    of, 

347  ;  the  poet  on,  347. 
Puntas  Arenas,  142. 
Putnam,  Prof.  F.  W.,  544. 
Pyramid  at  Uxmal,  67  ;  of  Mayapan,  102 ; 

of  Papantla,  192 ;  of  Xochicalco,  410 ; 

of  Teotihuacan,  481 ;  of  the  Sun,  482 ;  of 

the  Moon,  483 ;  of  Cholula,  508-510. 

Quarrel  in  camp,  135. 
Queretaro,  city  of,  479,  481. 
Quetzalcoatl,  218,  481 ;  image  of,  508. 
Quiche,  Cura  of,  169. 

Rag  figures,  322. 

Railway  Movement,  416  et  seq. 

Railroads,  Mexican,  198  et  seq. ;  first  in- 
ception, 415;  at  the  Capital  (map),  417; 
concessions,  etc.,  417  ;  principal  Mexi- 
can, 420;  Mexican  Oriental,  421,  559; 
the  Mexican  (map),  424 ;  Central, 
424-434;    National,  434-441 ;   Mexican 


method  of  constructing,  443  ;  system  of 
Mexico,  445;  Mexican  Southern,  515; 
International,  580. 

Rainy  season,  247. 

Ramble  around  the  City,  244  et  seq. 

Ramon  (forage),  87;  seller  (picture),  115. 

Rancho  (camp  or  farm),  133. 

Rancheros,  281,  583. 

Rankin,  Miss,  298. 

Rarefaction  of  the  air,  248. 

Rau,  Professor,  164. 

Raza  Indigena,  41,  42. 

Real  (plural  reales),  coin,  value  I2_J^  cts. 

Real  del  Monte  mines,  450,  457. 

Rebozo,  un,  280. 

Refresco,  Yucateco,  131. 

Regla,  smelting  establishment  of,  459; 
palisades  of,  460  ;  Count  of,  461  ;  Bar- 
ranca of,  463. 

Republics,  The  Two,  (newspaper,)  304. 

Respiradores,  391. 

Revista  Cientifica,  342. 

Rickarts,  Sefior,  527. 

Riley,  Rev.  H.  C,  299. 

Ring,  a  stone,  478. 

Rio  Bravo,  595. 

Rio  Escondido,  588. 

Rio  Grande,  555,  559,  596;  over  the,  580  ; 
valley  of,  577  et  seq. 

Rio  Hondo,  439. 

Rio  Lagartos,  147. 

Robbers,  never  seen  by  police,  219 ;  incon- 
siderate, 223  ;  murderous,  380. 

Romero,  Sefior,  527. 

Roof-top,  a  room  on  a,  222. 

Rosario  mine,  450. 

Ruined  cities,  of  Yucatan,  38  ;  character- 
istics of,  109;  of  Uxmal,  11 1 ;  of  north- 
ern coast  of  Yucatan,  146;  groups  of,  in 
Mexico,  323  ;  in  Oaxaca,  531 ;  of  Mitla, 
531-542;   mythical,  of  Sonora,  647. 

Sabinas  valley,  584. 

Sacramento,  hamlet,  608. 

Sacrificial  Stone,  306;  sculptures  on  the, 

307  ;  history  of  the,  315. 
Sacrificial  Collar,  320. 
Saga,  hacienda  of,  541. 
Sala  del  Muerte,  413. 
Salmsalm,  Princess,  356. 
Salto  del  Agua,  359. 
Sagrario,  el,  239. 


6/0 


INDEX. 


Salisbury,  S.,  Jr.,  109. 

Salomon,  hamlet  of,  520. 

Saltillo,  574. 

Sanctuary,  239;  of  the  Cross,  164. 

Sarape,  545. 

San  Angel,  village,  360. 

San  Antonio,  city,  554,  575,  578. 

San  Bias,  port  of,  42S. 

San  Cristobal,  lake  of,  241. 

San  Fernando,  cemetery  of,  264. 

San  Gertrudis  mine,  448. 

San  Hypolito,  church  of,  266. 

San  Jose,  Chihuahua,  606. 

San  Juan  de  los  Cues,  517. 

San  Juan  del  Rio,  429. 

San  Juan  de  Ulua,  port  of,  174. 

San  Lazaro,  372. 

San  Luis  Potosi,  city,  574. 

San  Marcos,  21S. 

San  Miguel,  hacienda  of,  465. 

Santa  Anna,  hacienda  of,  187 ;  church  of, 

262. 
Santa  Cruz  River,  646. 
Santa  Eulalia  mines,  61S,  621. 
Santa  Fe,  town  of,  363. 
Santa  Rosalia,  town  and  springs  of,  624. 
Sauz,  hamlet  of,  608. 
Savanas,  197. 
Saxony  process,  468. 
School  of  Mines,  252. 
.Sculptured  stone,  411,  543. 
Scriptures  in  Mexico,  297. 
Seasons  of  Mexico,  244. 
Senoritas,  of  Yucatan,  52;  their  secluded 

lives,  57  ;  the  dark-eyed,  650. 
Sepulchres  at  Mitla,  542. 
Serenos,  286. 

Serpent,  the  Feathered,  71  ;  court  of,  72. 
Sewers  of  Mexico  City,  243. 
Shepherd,  Ex-Governor,  618. 
Short,  J.  T.  (note),  ro8. 
Sierra  Mojada,   585. 
Sierra  Madres  of   Sonora,  635. 
Siesta,  the,  248. 
Silver  train,  a,  436;  footpath,  461 ;  states, 

467 ;    mush,  467  ;    slag   of   Chihuahua, 

609;  mines  of  Chihuahua,  618,  619. 
"  Skipping  the  border,"  587. 
Smithsonian  Institution,  164,  340. 
Snow-line  of  Popocatapetl,  3S6. 
Soap,  abundance  of,  584. 
Socabon  (tunnel),  461. 


Society  in  Mexico,  304. 

Sombreros,  545. 

Sonora  and  Apache  Country,  627  et  seq. 

Sonora  railway,  420,  653 ;  river,  648. 

Southey,  lines  by,  39S. 

Southern  Pacific  Railway,  578. 

Spurs,  Mexican,  546. 

Squier,  Mr.  E.  G.,  170. 

Statue,  discovered  in   Uxmal,  75;    from 

Palenque,  16S;  from  Copan,  169. 
Stephens,   J.    L.,   explorer,   note    on    his 

travels,  71. 
Stephens,  Rev.  J.  L.,  murder  of,  299. 
Stealing  ore,  453. 
Streets    of    Mexico    City,    flooded,    247 ; 

principal,  253. 
Streets  of  the  Dead,  482. 
Stucco  ornaments,  162,  167. 
Sublevados,  42,  81,  104. 
Subterraneo  of  Mitla,  537;  of  Saga,  541. 
Sugar-cane,  405. 
Sulfataras,  393. 
"  Sunset  Route,"  578,  595. 

Tabascan  Princess,  the,  158. 

Tabasco,  river  and  province  of,  157. 

Tablet  of  the  Cross,  165. 

Tacuba,  269. 

Tacubaya,  town  of,  360. 

Tajo  of  Nochistongo,  242. 

Tamales,  215. 

Tampico,  port  of,  57. 

Tarahumares  (Indians),  604. 

Tecalli,  quarries  of,  503. 

Techichi  (dumb  dog),  320. 

Techomavaca,  hamlet  of,  517. 

Tecpancaltzin,  477. 

Tehuacan,  town  of,  514,  546. 

Tehuan tepee,  173;  railway,  421  ;  road  to, 

533- 
Telegraph  lines,  running,  586. 

Temixtitlan,  3S7. 

Temperature  of  Popocatapetl,  at  the  snow- 
line, 383;  of  the  crater,  396. 
Temprano  (early),  139. 
Tender-foot  in  Arizona,  a,  644. 
Tepetate  (a  stone),  354. 
Tepitoton,  319. 
Teponaztli,  319. 
Teocallis,  191,  227. 
Teotleco,  294. 
Teotitlandel  Camino,  516;  valley  of,  543- 


INDEX. 


671 


Teotihuacan  pyramids,  481. 

Teoxihuitl,  295. 

Teoyaomiqui,  314. 

Terra-cotta  figure,  144. 

Terminos,  Laguna  of,  156. 

Terreros,  Pedro,  416. 

Terrasus,  Don  Luis,  615. 

Teteoinan,  294. 

Tetepetongo,  hill  of,  379. 

Tezcoco,  lake  of,  237;  city  of,  486;  pyra- 
mids of,  489,  490. 

Tezcatlipoca,  319. 

Texas,  a  ride  across,  584 ;  extreme  west- 
ern, 592  ;  Texas  Pacific  railway,  595. 

Tierra  caliente,  196,  199,  217. 

Tierra  fria,  198,  217. 

Tierra  templada,  197,  217. 

Tiger,  Two-headed,  66. 

Timax,  town  of,  120-125. 

Tixpenal,  village  of,  88. 

Tixkokob,  village  of,  88. 

Theatre,  National,  262,  263. 

Theories,  regarding  origin  of  ancient  cities 
of  Yucatan,  75  ;  diverse,  of  antiqua- 
rians, no. 

Thieves,  283,  284  ;  and  murderers,  583. 

T'ho,  Merida,  49. 

Times,  The,  (newspaper,)  595. 

Tlacolula,  valley,  531  ;  town,  533. 

Tlahuac,  Aztec  village,  337. 

Tlaloc,  294. 

Tlamacas,  rancho  of,  382. 

Tlalmanalco,  ruins  of,  490. 

Tlascala,  town  of,  492  et  seq. 

Tobago,  island,  407. 

Toltec,  troubles  of    the,   341. 

Toltec  Ruins  and  Pyramids,  469  et  seq. ; 
view  of,  471;  sculptures,  476;  nation, 
its  extinction,  477. 

Toluca,  Volcan  de,  37 1  ;  city  and  valley  of, 
440. 

Tombstone,  Arizona,  644. 

Topo  Chico,  hot  springs  of,  565. 

Toro,  el,  a  native  dance,  124;  music  of, 
128. 

Tortilla,     method    of    preparation, 
seller   of    (picture),   44. 

Tortillas  and  frijoles,  134. 

Tortillera,  la,  138. 

Track,  end  of  International,  586. 

Track-laying  extraordinary,  585. 

Tramways  of  Mexico  City,  235. 


44; 


Transcontinental  profile,  195. 
Treasures,    of    the   Church,   231  ;    of  the 

Aztecs,  321  ;  buried,  at  .Mitla,  537. 
Tropics,  nights  in  the,  81  ;  vegetation  of 

the,  197. 
Trowbridge,  Dr.,  179. 
TsiJam  Oilam),  port  of,  127. 
Tucson,  Arizona,  641,  644. 
Tula,  town  of,  94,  474;  cathedral  of,  475  ; 

ruins  of,  476. 
Tula,  valley  of  (view),  431. 
Tule  (bulrush),  town  of,  533;    great  tree 

of.  533- 
Tulum,  ruins  of,  103,  147. 
Turkey  Hunt,  a  Grand,  112  et  seq. 
Turkey,  the  ocellated,  112,  150. 
Tutul  Xius,  the,  95. 
Tzintzuntzan,  441. 

Uayalceh,  hacienda  of,  6i. 
Uipil,  garment  of  Yucatan,  28,  1 18. 
Unexplored  region,  167. 
Usumacinta  River,  162,  170. 
Uxmal,  ruins  of,  58  et  seq. 

Valenciana  mine,  466. 

Valladolid,  city  of,  42,  104. 

Valley  of  Mexico,  view  of,  237  ;  glance  at 
the,  398. 

Valley,  the  triple,  523. 

Vamonos,  1 23. 

Vanilla,  190. 

Vase  in  Mexican  Museum,  319. 

Vegetation,  of  tierra  caliente,  197  ;  of  tierra 
templada,  197;  of  tierra  fria,  198;  limit 
of,  385- 

Vender  of  holy  relics,  278. 

Venice  of  the  western  world,  333. 

Vera  Cruz,  city  of,  173  et  seq. ;  engraving 
of,  175;  yellow  fever  in,  178;  State  of, 
186;  return  of  author  to,  548. 

Viejo,  el,  148. 

Villaldama,  town,  561. 

Virgin,  of  Remedies,  270,  370  ;  of  Guada- 
lupe, 369. 

Volan,  61 ;  journey  in  a,  112  ;  figure  of  a, 

"3- 

Volante,  52,  56. 

Volcanero,  el,  375. 

Volcano,  Popocatapetl,  371  et  seq.;  Ori- 
zaba, 117,  218,  371  ;  Jorullo,  372. 


6/2 


INDEX. 


Volcanoes,  principal  Mexican,  395;  from 
Mexican  valley,  3S7. 

Vomito,  iSo;  in  Vera  Cruz,  181  ;  in  Cor- 
don'a,  548. 

Vultures  of  Vera  Cruz,  177. 

Wages  of  Mexican  miners,  454. 
Waldeck,  explorer,  68. 
Ward,  Mr.,  343. 
Warrior,  an  Apache,  635. 
"  Water  wheat,"  339. 
Water-works  of  Guaymas,  654. 
W^illcox,  Arizona,  629. 
Wines  of  Paso  del  Norte,  599. 
Wooden-wheel  carts,  582,  583. 

Xaltocan,  lake  of,  241. 

Xibalba,  94. 

Xico,  island  of,  337. 

Xipe,  294. 

Xochicalco,  hill  and  castle  of,  408-412. 

Xochimilco,  237,  241,  335. 


Xochitl,  Toltec  princess,  341  ;  hamlet  of, 
409. 

Yaquis  Indians,  653. 

Yucatan,  approach  to,  25 ;  State  and 
government  of,  35;  newspapers  of,  35; 
cities,  towns,  etc.,  of,  38  ;  conquest  of, 
41 ;  inhabitants  of,  57 ;  north  coast  of, 
127  et  seq. ;  railwajs  of,  421 ;  adieu  to, 
549- 

Zaachila,  town  of,  529. 

Zapotec    Indians,    520,  529 ;   customs  of, 

534 ;  burial-places,   538  ;    fortress,  542  ; 

battles,  543. 
Zela,  Don  Domingo,  375. 
Zocalo,  el,  232. 
Zones,  different,  195-198. 
Zopilote,  a  dance,  124;  a  vulture,  177. 
Zubiran,  Don  Juan,  615. 
Zumarraga,  Bishop,  369. 
Zumpango,  lake,  241. 


University  Press:  John  Wilson  &  Son,  Cambridge. 


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